Himalayan journals : notes of a naturalist in Bengal, the Sikkim and Nepal Himalayas, the Khasia Mountains, &c.

Preface

Having accompanied Sir James Ross on liis voyage of discovery to the Antarctic regions, where botany was my chief pursuit, I was anxious to add to my acquaintance with the natural history of the temperate zones, more knowledge of that of the tropics than I had hitherto had the opportunity of acquiring. My choice lay between India and the Andes, and I decided upon the former, being principally influenced by Dr. Falconer, the Superintendent of the H. E. I. C. Botanic Garden at Calcutta. He drew my attention to the fact that we were ignorant even of the geography of the central and eastern parts of these mountains, while all to the north was involved in a mystery equally attractive to the traveller and the naturalist.

The portion of the Himalaya best worth exploring, was selected for me both by Lord Auckland and Dr. Falconer, who each recommended Sikkim, as being ground untrodden by traveller or naturalist. Its ruler

VI

PREFACE.

was, moreover, all but a dependant of the British government, and it was supposed, would therefore be glad to facilitate my researches.

No part of the snowy Himalaya eastward of the north-west extremity of the British possessions had been visited since Turner’s embassy to Tibet in 1789 ; and hence it was highly important to explore scientifically a part of the chain which from its central position might be presumed to be typical of the whole range. The possibility of visiting Tibet, and of ascertaining particulars respecting the great mountain Cliumulari, which was only known from Turner’s account, were additional Inducements to a student of physical geography ; but it was not then known that Kinchin - junga, the loftiest known mountain on the globe, was situated on my route, and formed a principal feature in the physical geography of Sikkim.

My passage to Egypt was provided by the Admiralty in H. M. steam-vessel “ Sidon,” destined to convey the Marquis of Dalhousie, Governor-General of India, thus far on his way. On his arrival in Egjqot, his Lordship did me the honour of desiring me to consider myself in the position of one of his suite, for the remainder of the voyage, which was performed in the “ Moozuffer,” a steam frigate belonging to the Indian Navy.

During the passage out, some days were spent in

PEEFACE.

Vll

Egypt, at Aden, Ceylon, and Madras. I have not thought it necessary to give here the observations made in those well-known countries ; they are detailed in a series of extracts published in the “ London Journal of Botany,” from letters written to my private friends. Arriving at Calcutta in January, I passed the remainder of the cold season in making myself acquainted with the vegetation of the plains and hills of Western Bengal, south of the Ganges, by a journey across the mountains of Birbhoom and Behar to the Soane valley, and thence over the Vindhya range to the Ganges, at Mirzapore, whence I descended that stream to Bhaugulpore ; and leaving my boat, I then struck north to the Sikkim Himalaya.

In the course of this narrative, I shall give a sketch of the rise, progress, and prospects of the Sanatarium, or Health-station of Dorjiling, and of the anomalous position held by the Sikkim Bajah. The latter circumstance led indirectly to the detention of Hr. Campbell, the superintendent of Horjihng (who joined me in one of my journeys), and myself, by a faction of the Sikkim court, for the purpose of obtaining from the Indian Government a more favourable treaty than that then existing. This mode of enforcing a request by douce violence and detention, is common with the turbulent tribes east of Nepal, but was in this instance aggravated by violence towards my fellow-prisoner,

Vlll

PREFACE.

through the ill will of the persons who executed the orders of their superiors, and who had been punished by Dr. Campbell for crimes committed against the British and Nepalese governments. The circumstances of this outrage were misunderstood at the time ; its instigators were supposed to be Chinese ; its perpetrators Tibetans ; and we, the offenders, were assumed to have thrust ourselves into the country, without authority from our own government, and contrary to the will of the Sikkim Bajah ; who was imagined to be a tributary of China, and protected by that nation, and to be under no obligation to the East Indian government.

Dr. T. Thomson joined me in Dorjiling towards the end of 1849, after the completion of his arduous journeys in the North-West Himalaya and Tibet, and we spent the year 1850 in travelling and collecting in the Khasia mountains ; returning to England together in 1851.

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

INTERIOR OP THE TEMPLE AT PEMIONGCHI . . FRONTISPIECE. pftf?e

OLD TAMARIND TREES . . . . . . . .15

CROSSING THE SOANE, WITH THE KTMORE HILLS IN THE DISTANCE 40

EQUATORIAL SUN-DIAL ......... 68

EQUINOCTIAL SUN-DIAL ........ 69

BRASS AZIMUTH CIRCLE 70

MONGHYR ON THE GANGES, WITH THE CURRUCKPORE HILLS IN

THE DISTANCE 80

PUNKABAREE BUNGALOW AND BASE OP THE HIMALAYA . . . 94

LEPCHA GIRL AND BOODHIST LAMA ...... 119

LEPCHA AMULET 132

PINES (PINUS LONGIFOLIA), RUNGEET VALLEY .... 139

LEPCHA WATER-CARRIER WITH A BAMBOO CHUNGI . . . 147

CLASPING ROOTS OP WIGHTIA 155

SIMONBONG TEMPLE ........ 162

TRUMPET MADE OP A HUMAN THIGH-BONE ..... 163

TIBETAN AMULET . . .166

TIBETAN CHARM-BOX . . . . . . . . 188

TAMBUR RIVER AT THE LOWER LIMIT OF FIRS .... 197

WALLANCHOON VILLAGE 200

ANCIENT MORAINES IN THE YANGMA VALLEY . . . . 224

LOOKING ACROSS THE YANGMA VALLEY 227

X

LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS

Page

DIAGRAM OF THE GLACIAL TERRACES AT TEE FORK OF THE

YANGMA VALLEY ........ 232

SKULLS OF OVIS AMMON ........ 235

KANGLACHEM PASS 237

ANCIENT MORAINES IN THE KAMBACHEN VALLEY . . . 248

PEMIONGCHI GOOMPA AND CHAITS 271

SIKKIM LAMAS WITH PRAYING CYLINDER AND DORJE ; THE

LATERAL FIGURES ARE MONKS OR GYLONGS . . . 275

DO-MANI STONE 278

IMPLEMENTS USED IN BOODHIST TEMPLES . . . . .296

GROUP OF CHAITS AT TASSIDING 298

SOUTHERN TEMPLE . . . . . . . ..302

MIDDLE TEMPLE ......... 303

ALTAR AND IMAGES 304

PLAN OF THE SOUTH TEMPLE . . . . . . .305

TEMPLE AND WEEPING CYPRESS . . . . . . . 315

KINCHINJUNGA AND PUNDIM FROM MON LEPCHA . . . 323

MAITYRA, THE SIXTH OR COMING BOODDH . . . . . 334

ALTAR AND SONG-BOOM AT YOKSUN ...... 339

DHURMA RAJAH’S SEAL,

Chapter I. Page

Sunderbunds vegetation — Calcutta Botanic Garden — Leave for Burdwan — Rajah’s gardens and menagerie — Coal-beds, geology, and plants of — Lac insect and plant — Kunker — Cowage — Effloresced soda on soil — Glass, manufacture of — Atmospheric vapours — Temperature, &c. — Mahowa oil and spirits — Maddaobund — Jains — Ascent of Parasnath — Vegetation of that mountain . . 1

CHAPTER II. Doomree — Vegetation of table-land — Birds — Lieutenant Beadle

Hot springs of Soorujkoond — Plants near them — Cholera-tree — Olibanum — Palms, form of — Dunwah Pass — Trees, native and planted — Wild peacock — Poppy fields — Geography and Geology of Behar and Central India — Toddy-palm — Baroon — Lizard — Aurora Borealis — Cross the Soane — Sand, ripple-marks on — Kymore hills — Rotas fort and palace — Nitrate of lime — Change of climate— Lime stalagmites, enclosing leaves — Spiders, &c. — Scenery and natural history of upper Soane valley — Bhel fruit — Dust-storm — Alligator — Catechu — Cochlospermum — Leaf-bellows — Scorpions — Tortoises — Florican — Limestone spheres —

Coles — Tiger-hunt — Robbery .... ... 22

Chapter III

Ek-powa Ghat — Sandstones — Shahgunj — Gum-arabic — Mango — Fair — Rujubbund — Storm — False sunset and sunrise — Bind hills xn

CONTENTS.

PAGE

— Mirzapore — Manufactures, imports, &c. — Climate of — Thuggee — Chunar — Benares — Mosque — Observatory — Sar-nath — Ghazepore — Rose-gardens — Manufactory of Attar — Lord Cornwallis’ tomb — Ganges, scenery and natural history of — Pelicans • — Vegetation — Insects — Dinapore — Patna — Opium godowns and manufacture — Monghyr — Hot Springs of Seetakoond — Rocks of Sultan-gunj — Bhagulpore — Temples of Mt. Manden — Coles and native tribes — Bhagulpore rangers — Horticultural gardens. . 53

CHAPTER IY.

Leave Bhagulpore — Colgong — Himalaya, distant view of — Cosi, mouth of — Difficult navigation — Sand-storms — Caragola-Ghat — Purnea — Ortolans — Mahanuddee, transport of pebbles, &c. — Betel-pepper, cultivation of — Titalya— Siligoree — View of outer Himalaya — Terai — Mechis — Punkabaree — Foot of mountains — Ascent to Dorjiling — Cicadas — Leeches — Animals — Kursiong, spring vegetation of — Pacheem — Arrive at Dorjiling — Dorjiling, origin and settlement of — Grant of land from Rajah — Dr. Campbell appointed superintendent — Dewan, late and present — Aggressive conduct of the latter — Increase of the station — Trade — Titalya fair — Healthy climate for Europeans and children — Invalids, diseases prejudicial to . . . . . . . . 85

CHAPTER Y.

View from Mr. Hodgson’s of the snowy mountains — Their extent and elevation — Deceptive appearance of elevation — Sinchul, view from and vegetation of — Chumulari — Magnolias, white and purple — ‘Rhododendron Dalhousise, arboreum and argenteum — Natives of Dorjiling — Lepchas, origin, tradition of flood, morals, dress, arms, ornaments, diet — cups, origin and value — Marriages — Diseases — Burial — Worship and religion — Bijooas — Kampa Rong, or Arratt — Limboos, origin, habits, language, &c.— Moormis — Magras — Mechis — Comparison of customs with those of the natives of Assam, Khasia, &c. . . . . . .112

CHAPTER VI.

Excursion from Dorjiling to Great Rungeet — Zones of vegetation — Tree-ferns — Palms — Leebong, tea plantations — Ging — Boodhist

CONTENTS.

xm

PAGE

remains — Tropical vegetation — Pines— Lepcha clearances — Forest fires — Boodhist monuments — Fig — Cane bridge and raft over Rungeet — India-rubber — Yel Pote— Butterflies and other insects — Snakes — Camp — Junction of Teesta and Rungeet — Return to Dorjiling — Tonglo, excursion to — Bamboo flowering — Oaks — Peepsa — Simonbong, cultivation at — European fruits at Dorjiling — Plains of India . ........ 133

CHAPTER VII.

Continue the ascent of Tonglo — Trees — Lepcha construction of hut — Simsibong — Climbing-trees — Frogs — Ticks— Leeches — Summit of Tonglo — Rhododendrons — Yew — Rose- — -Aconite — Bikh poison — English genera of plants — Ascent of tropical orders — Comparison with south temperate zone — Heavy rain— Temperature, &c. — Descent — Simonbong temple — Furniture therein — Praying-cylinder — Thigh.-bone trumpet — Morning orisons — Present of Murwa beer, &c. . . . . . . . . .153

CHAPTER VIII.

Difficulty in procuring leave to enter Sikkim — Obtain permission to travel in East Nepal — Arrangements — Coolies — Stores— Servants — Personal equipment — Mode of travelling — Leave Dorjiling —

Goong ridge — Behaviour of Bhotan coolies — Nepal frontier — ■ Myong valley — Ilam — Sikkim massacre — Cultivation— Nettles —

Camp at Nanki on Tonglo — Bhotan coolies run away — View of Chumnlari — N epal peaks — Sakkiazung — Horn bills — Road to Wallanchoon — Scarcity of water — Singular view of mountain-valleys — Encampment — My tent and its furniture — Evening occupations — Dunkotah — Cross ridge of Sakkiazung — Yews — Silver-firs — View of Tambur valley — Pemmi river — Pebbly terraces—Holy springs — Enormous trees — Luculia gratissima — Khawa river — Arrive at Tambur — Shingle and gravel terraces — Natives, indolence of — Canoe ferry — Votive offerings — Bad road — Temperature, &c. — Chingtam village, view from — Mywa river and Guola — House — Boulders — Chain-bridge — Meepo, arrival of — Fevers . . . . . . . . . 167

VOL, i.

b

XIV

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER IX.

PAGE

Leave My wa — Suspension "bridge — Landslips — Y egetation — Bees’ nests — Glacial phenomena — Tibetans, clothing, ornaments, amulets, salutation, children, dogs — Last Limboo village, Taptiatok — Beautiful scenery — Tibet village of Lelyp — Edgeworthia — Crab-apple — Chameleon and porcupine — Praying machine —

Abies Brunoniana — European plants — Grand scenery — Arrive at Wallanchoon — Scenery around — Trees— Tibet houses — Manis and Mendongs — Tibet household — Food — Tea-soup — Hospitality — Yaks and Zobo, uses and habits of — Bhoteas — Yak-hair tents — Guobah of Walloong — Jhatamansi — Obstacles to proceeding — Climate and weather — Proceed — Rhododendrons, &c. — Lichens — Poa annua and Shepherd’s purse — Tibet camp — Tuquoroma — Scenery of pass — Glaciers and snow — Summit — Plants, woolly, &c. . . . . . . . . . .189

CHAPTER X.

Return from Wallanchoon pass — Procure a bazaar at village — Dance of Lamas — Temple and convent — Leave for Kanglachem pass —

Send part of party hack to Dorjiling — Yangma Guola — Drunken Tibetans — Guobah of Wallanchoon — Camp at foot of Great Moraine — View from top — Geological speculations— Height of moraines — Cross dry lake-bed — Glaciers — More moraines — Terraces — Yangma temples — Jos, books and furniture — Peak of Nango — Arrive at village — Cultivation — Scenery — Potatos — State of my provisions — Pass through village — Gigantic boulders — Terraces — Wild sheep — Lake-beds — Sun’s power — Piles of gravel and detritus — Glaciers and moraines — Pabuk, elevation of — Moonlight scene — Return to Yangma — Temperature, &c. — Geological causes of phenomena in valley — Scenery of valley on descent ........... 217

CHAPTER XI.

Ascend Nango mountain — Moraines — Vegetation — Honey-combed surface of snow — Perpetual snow — Top of pass — View — Elevation-Distance of sound— Plants— Temperature — Scenery — Cliffs

CONTENTS.

xv

PAGE

of granite and hurled boulders — Camp — Descent — Pheasants —

Larch — Distribution of Deodar — Kambachen village — Cultivation— Moraines in valley, distribution of— Picturesque lake-beds, and their vegetation — Tibetan sheep and goats —Cryptogramma crispa — Ascent to Choonjerma pass — View of Junnoo— Rocks of its summit — -Misty ocean — Nepal peaks — Top of pass — Temperature, and observations — Gorgeous sunset — Descent to Yalloong valley — Lose path — Night scenes — Musk deer .... 240

CHAPTER XII.

Yalloong valley — Find Kanglanamo pass closed — Change route for the southward — Picrorhiza — Cross Yalloong range — View — Descent — Yew — Vegetation — Misty weather — Tonghem village — Khabang — Tropical vegetation — Sidingbah Mountain — View of Kinchinjunga — Khabili valley — Ghorkha Havildar’s bad conduct — Ascend Singalelah — Plague of ticks — Short commons — Cross Islumbo pass — Boundary of Sikkim — Kulhait valley — Lingcham — Deception by Kajee — Hear of Dr. Campbell’s going to meet Bajah — Views in valley — Leave for Teesta river — Tipsy Kajee — Hospitality — Murwa beer — Temples — Long Mendong — Burning of dead — Superstitions — Cross Great Bungeet — Purchase of a dog — Marshes — Lamas — Dismiss Gliorkhas — Bhotea house — Murwa beer .......... 258

CHAPTER XIII.

Baklang pass — Uses of nettles — Edible plants — Lepcha war — Do-mani stone — Neongong — Teesta valley — Pony, saddle, &c. — Meet Campbell — Vegetation and scenery— Presents — Visit of Dewan — Characters of Bajah and Dewan — Accounts of Tibet — Lhassa —

Siling — Tricks of Dewan — Walk up Teesta — Audience of Bajah — Lamas — Kajees — Tchebu Lama, his character and position — Effects of interview — Heir-apparent — Dewan’s house — Guitar —

Tibet officers — Gigantic trees — Neongong lake — Mainom, ascent of — Vegetation — Camp on snow — View from top — Kinchin, &c.

— Vapours — Sunset effect — Temperature, &c. — Lamas of Neongong—Temples — Beligious festival — Bamboo, flowering — Becross pass of Baklang — Numerous temples, villages, &c.— Domestic animals — Descent to Great Bungeet . . . . .276

XVI

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XIY.

PAGK

Tassiding, view of and from — Funereal cypress — Camp at Sunnook

— Hot vapours — Lama’s house — Temples, decorations, altars, idols, general effect — Chaits — Date of erection — Plundered by Ghorkas — Cross Ratong — Ascend to Pemiongclii — Pemiongcki, view from — Vegetation — Temple, decorations, &c. — Former capital of Sikkim — History of Sikkim — Nightingales — Campbell departs — Tchonpong — Edgeworthia — Cross Rungbee and Ratong

— Yoksun — Walnuts — View — Funereal cypresses — Doobdi —

Gigantic cypresses — Temples — Snowfall — Sikkim, &c. — Toys , 297

CHAPTER XV.

Leave Yoksun for Kinckinjunga — Ascend Ratong valley — Salt-smuggling over Ratong — Plants — Buckeem — Blocks of gneiss —

Mon Lepcha — View — Weather — View from Gubroo — Kinchin - junga, tops of — Pundim cliff — Nursing — Vegetation of Himalaya — Coup d’oeil of Jongri — Route to Yalloong — Arduous route of salt-traders from Tibet — Kinchin, ascent of — Lichens — Surfaces sculptured by snow and ice — Weather at Jongri — Snow — Shades for eyes ...... .... 318

CHAPTER XVI.

Ratong river below Mon Lepcha — Ferns — Vegetation of Yoksun, tropical — Araliacece, fodder for cattle — Rice-paper plant — Lake — Old temples — Funereal cypresses — Gigantic chait— Altars — Songboom — Catsuperri — Worship at Catsuperri lake — Scenery — Willow — Lamas and ecclesiastical establishments of Sikkim — Tengling — Changachelling temples and monks — Portrait of myself on walls — Lingcham Kajee asks for spectacles — Arrive at Little Rungeet — At Dorjiling — Its deserted and wintry appearance . 335

HIMALAYAN JOURNALS.

Chapter I

Sunderbuntls vegetation — Calcutta Botanic Harden — Leave for Burdwan — Rajah’s gardens and menagerie — Coal-beds, geology, and plants of — Lac insect and plant — Kunker — Cowage — Effloresced soda on soil — Glass, manufacture of — Atmospheric vapours — Temperature, &c. — Mahowa oil and spirits — Maddaobund — Jains — Ascent of Parasnath — Vegetation of that mountain.

I left England on the 11th of November, 1847, and performed the voyage to India under circumstances which have been detailed in the Introduction. On the 12th of January, 1848, the “ Moozuffer ” was steaming amongst the low swampy islands of the Sunderbunds. These exhibit no tropical luxuriance, and are, in this respect, exceedingly disappointing. A low vegetation covers them ; growing in brackish swamps, chiefly made up of a dwarf-palm and small mangroves, with a few scattered trees on the higher hank that runs along the water’s edge, consisting of fan and toddy-palms. Ever}r now and then, the paddles of the steamer tossed up the large fruits of Nipa fruticans, a low stemless palm that grows in the tidal waters of the Indian ocean,

VOL. I.

B

CALCUTTA.

Chap. I

and bears a large bead of nuts. It is a plant of no interest to the common observer, but of much to the geologist, from the nuts of a similar plant abounding in the tertiary formations at the mouth of the Thames, having floated about there in as great profusion as here, till buried deep in the silt and mud that now form the island of Sheppey.*

Higher up, the river Hoogly is entered, and large trees, with villages and cultivation, replace the sandy spits and marshy jungles of the great Gangetic delta. A few miles below Calcutta, the scenery becomes beautiful, beginning with the Botanic Garden, once the residence of Roxburgh and Wallich, and now of Falconer,— classical ground to the naturalist. Opposite are the gardens of Sir Lawrence Peel ; unrivalled in India for their beauty and cultivation, and fairly entitled to be called the Chatsworth of Bengal. A little higher up, Calcutta opened out, with the batteries of Fort William in the foreground, thundering forth a salute, and in a few minutes more all other thoughts were absorbed in watching the splendour of the arrangements made for the reception of the Governor- General of India.

During my short stay in Calcutta, I was principally occupied in preparing for an excursion with Mr. Williams of the Geological Survey, who was about to move his camp from the Damooda valley coal-fields, near Burdwan, to Beejagliur on the banks of the Soane, where coal was reported to exist, in the immediate

* Bowerbank “ On tlie Fossil Fruits and Seeds of tlie Isle of Sheppey,” and Lyell’s “Elements of Geology,” 3rd ed. p. 201.

CALCUTTA BOTANIC GARDENS.

vicinity of water-carriage, the great desideratum of the Burdwan fields.

My time was spent partly at Government-House, and partly at Sir Lawrence Peel's residence. The former I was kindly invited to consider as my Indian home, an honour which I appreciate the more highly, as the invitation was accompanied with the assurance that I should have entire freedom to follow my own pursuits ; and the advantages which such a position afforded me, were, I need not say, of no ordinary land.

At the Botanic Gardens I received every assistance from Dr. McLelland, who was very bus}7, superintending the publication of the botanical papers and drawings of his friend, the late Dr. Griffith, for which native artists were preparing copies on lithographic paper.

I was surprised to find the Botanic Gardens looked upon by many of the Indian public, and even by some of the better informed official men, as rather an extravagant establishment, more ornamental than useful. These persons seemed astonished to learn that its name was renowned throughout Europe, and that during the first twenty years especially of Dr. Wallich’s superintendence, it had contributed more useful and ornamental tropical plants to the public and private gardens of the world than any other establishment before or since. I speak from a personal knowledge of the contents of our English gardens, and our colonial ones at the Cape, and in Australia, and from an inspection of the ponderous volumes of distribution lists, to which Dr. Falconer is daily adding. The botanical public of Europe and India is no less indebted than the

13URDWAN.

Chap. I.

horticultural to the liberality of the Hon. East India Company, and to the energy of the several eminent men who have carried their Hews into execution. The Indian government itself, has already profited largely by this garden, directly and indirectly, and might have done so still more, had its efforts been better seconded either by the European or native population of the country. Amongst its greatest triumphs may be considered the introduction of the tea-plant from China, a fact I allude to, as many of my English readers may not be aware that the establishment of the tea-trade in the Himalaya and Assam is almost entirely the work of the superintendents of the gardens of Calcutta and Seliarunpore.

From no one did I receive more kindness than from Sir James Col vile, President of the Asiatic Society, who not only took care that I should be provided with every comfort, but presented me with a completely equipped palkee, which, for strength and excellence of construction, was everything that a traveller could desire. Often en route did I mentally thank him when I saw other palkees breaking down, and travellers bewailing the loss of those forgotten necessaries, with which his kind attention had furnished me.

I left Calcutta to join Mr. Williams' camp on the 28tli of January, driving to Hoogly on the river of that name, and thence following the grand trunk-road westward towards Burdwan. The novelty of palkee-travelling at first renders it pleasant : the neatness with which everything is packed, the good-humour of the bearers, their merry pace, and the many more comforts

PALKEE-TRAVELLINGf.

than could be expected in a conveyance horsed by men , the warmth when the sliding doors are shut, and the breeze when they are open, are all fully appreciated on first starting ; hut soon the novelty wears off, and the discomforts are so numerous, that it is pronounced, at best, a barbarous conveyance. The greedy cry and gestures of the bearers, when, on changing, they break a fitful sleep by poking a torch in your face, and vociferating “Bucksheesh, Sahib;'’ their discontent at the most liberal largesse, and the sluggishness of the next set who want bribes, put the traveller out of patience with the natives. The dust when the slides are open, and the stifling heat when shut during a shower, are conclusive against the vehicle ; and on getting out with aching bones and giddy head at my journey’s end, I shook off the dust, and wished never to see a palkee again.

On the following morning I was passing through the straggling villages close to Burdwan, consisting of native hovels by the road side, with mangos and figs planted near them, and palms waving over their roofs. Crossing the nearly dry bed of the Damooda, I was set down at Mr. MTntosh’s (the magistrate of the district), and never more thoroughly enjoyed a hearty welcome and a breakfast.

In the evening we visited the Rajah of Burdwan’s palace and pleasure-grounds, where I had the first glimpse of oriental gardening : the roads were generally raised, running through rice fields, now dry and hard, and bordered with trees of Jack, Bamboo, “ Pride of India,” &c. Tanks were the prominent features: chains

BURDWAN.

Chap. I.

of them, full of Indian water-lilies, being fringed with rows of the fan-palm, and occasionally the Indian date. Close to the house was a rather good menagerie, where I saw, amongst other animals, a pair of kangaroos in high health and condition, the female with young in her pouch. Before dark 1 was again in my palkee, and hurrying onwards, refreshed by the cool and clear night air, so different from the damp and foggy atmosphere I had left at Calcutta. On the following morning I found myself travelling over a flat and apparently rising country, along an excellent road, with groves of bamboos and stunted trees on either hand, few villages or palms, a sterile soil, with stunted grass and but little cultivation ; altogether a country as unlike what I had expected to find in India as well might be. All around was a dead flat or table -land, out of which a few conical hills rose in the west, about 1000 feet high, covered with a low forest of dusky green or yellow, from the prevalence of bamboo. The lark was singing merrily at sunrise, and the accessories of a fresh air and dewy grass more reminded me of some moorland in the north of England than of the torrid regions of the East.

At 10 p.m. I arrived at Mr. Williams’ camp, near the western limit of the coal basin of the Damooda valley. His operations being finished, he was prepared to start, having kindly waited a couple of days for my arrival.

Early on the morning of the last day of January, a motley group of natives was busy striking the tents, and loading the bullocks, bullock-carts and elephants ;

COAL-FIELDS OF BURDWAN.

which then proceeded on the march, occupying in straggling groups nearly three miles of road.

The coal crops out at the surface ; hut the shafts worked are sunk through thick beds of alluvium. The age of these coal-fields is quite unknown, and I regret to say that my examination of their fossil plants throws no material light on the subject. Upwards of thirty species of these have been procured from them, the majority of which are referred by Dr. McLelland* to the inferior oolite epoch of England : most of these are ferns, some of which are supposed to be the same as occur in the coal-fields of Sind and of Australia. I cannot, however, think that botanical evidence of such a nature is sufficient to warrant a satisfactory reference of these Indian coal-fields to the same epoch as those of England or of Australia : in the first place the outlines of the fronds of ferns and their nervation are frail characters if employed alone for the determination of existing genera, and much more so of fossil fragments : in the second place recent ferns are so widely distributed, that an inspection of the majority affords little clue to the region or locality they come from : and in the third place, considering the wide difference in latitude and longitude of Yorkshire, India, and Australia, the natural conclusion is that they could not have supported a similar vegetation at the same epoch. In fact, finding similar fossil plants at places widely different in latitude, and therefore in climate, is, in the present state of our knowledge, rather an argument against than for their having existed cotemporaneously.

* Reports of the Geological Survey of India. Calcutta, 1850.

BURDWAN.

Chap. I.

But, even supposing that specific identity of their contained fossils be considered as fair evidence of the cotemporaneous origin of beds ; amongst the many collections of fossil plants that I have examined, there is hardly a specimen, belonging to any epoch, sufficiently perfect to warrant the assumption that the species to which it belonged can be recognised. The botanical evidences which geologists too often accept as proofs of specific identity, are such as no botanist would attach any importance to in the investigation of existing plants.

A number of women were here employed in making gunpowder, grinding the usual materials on a stone, with the addition of water from the Hookah ; a custom for which they have an obstinate prejudice. The charcoal here used is made from an Acacia : the Seiks, I believe, employ Justicia Aclhatoda, which is also in use all over India: at Aden the Arabs prefer the Calotropis , probably because it is most easily procured. The grain of all these plants is open, whereas in England, closergrained and more woody trees, especially willows, are preferred.