Life and travels of Joseph Mathias, surgeon, Beith, Ayrshire. A native of Portugal

Front matter

f f

LIFE AND TRAVELS

OF

Preface

It seems to me, that many works have been published, in which the several au¬ thors have brought together a mass of words, for the mere purpose of eking out a seemly volume. On this point, however, I shall not at present dwell.

It has been said by an eminent author, that a book without a preface is like a body without a head ; though it must be confessed that many of those bodies, even when deprived of their head, have done no discredit to their authors. But

VI

PREFACE.

it appears to me that, however small the publication may be, it does not bear the appearance of a finished volume, unless it be so accompanied. It is like putting the cart before the horse, or a fine-dressed gentleman riding on an unsaddled horse.

Notwithstanding the short period that I have been acquainted with the English language, I have observed many a work, collected from different ancient authors, in order that they might appear more grand in the eye of the public. They wish it, also, to be believed, that all this store of knowledge has originated in their own cranium. But it is soon found that the works are neither more nor less than a collection from those of their ancestors, with slight improvements ; handing them down from generation to generation for future improvement. And what will be the end of this career, when so many

PREFACE.

• * Vll

are contributing in aid of this literary fund ? Truly, I must confess that I am unable to search after and to obtain those qualifications, which are necessary to form an accomplished author.

Many reasons might be given to ac¬ count for the manner in which this has been brought about j but the one I parti¬ cularly refer to is, that, in my younger days, I had no opportunity of acquiring knowledge, on account of the disturbed state of my native country, and the strait¬ ened circumstances of my parents.

I must observe, that for the following pages the Author claims no merit ; though, in tracing the career of one who was left entirely to his own resources, and whose qualifications for the task he has undertaken are solely to be ascribed to his own industry and talent.

PREFACE.

Vlll

According to the arrangement which I have laid down in revising my notes for the accomplishment of this work, I shall be under the necessity of giving, in the body of the work, a short sketch of my father’s life.

THE AUTHOR.

LIFE AND TRAVELS,

CHAP. L

My father, Joze de Proanca, was born on the 23d of March, 1744, in the parish of de Ade, in the county of Castalo Mendo, on the banks of the liver Coa. This small parish lies in a beautiful valley, situated twenty-live miles west of Almei¬ da, and thirty-live north-west from Penhal, and twelve west from the county town. The people of this village are supplied well with all their commodities. It is surrounded on the north west with excellent vines and orchards. On the south and east it is surrounded with line fields, which produce plenty of provision for their own sustenance ; and between these fields and the village is a space of ground, containing from twenty to thirty acres, where cattle, horses and sheep feed through the winter and part of the summer. Through the centre of this field passes a small stream, which runs from west to east. Although this stream is very annoying to the in¬ habitants during the winter, in consequence of the water overflowing, and which is injurious to their health, yet it is the means of watering the gardens, and consequently of supplying the in¬ habitants with vegetables during the summer. This space of ground is likewise planted with a great number of mulberry trees, which attain a considerable size, and which are of inestimable value in feeding the silk worms, which are very numerous in this part of the country during summer. I may notice here that the silk worms are nursed by young females, for the purpose of getting themselves well clothed, or purchasing apparel of any kind. In my vi¬ sit to my friends in 1830, a niece of mine had no less than sixteen bushels of silk worms, each bushel realizing one pound silk, and the average price is from fid. to 6d. per ounce: but this part of the subject I will explain at greater length when I come to the end of my work* In the meantime I may mention that the houses are built with common stone, and clay in place of lime, and are 'all two story high. The in¬ habitants are all farmers, and amount to five or six hundred. There is no trade in this part of the country. My readers may perhaps think that 1 am digressing from my subject, but according to my arrangement, previously laid out, 1 must describe the head town of the county, and what makes me more anxious to do this is, because my father held three offices in that town for three years, at different times, and more especially as 1 have never found it described in history.

This town is situated upon a beautiful sum¬ mit, and is fifteen miles west of Almeida, on the banks of the river Coa, and thirty north¬ west from Penhal, and is likewise south to the main road leading from Almeida to Guarda twenty-five miles ; but I shall explain the course of the river Coa more particularly af¬ terwards. This town was built by the Moors in olden times, is surrounded with a strong wall, and has two entrances. The wall con^- tains fourteen small turrets, for the purpose of accommodating sentinels, or, if I may so speak, of strengthening the city in time of need. One of the entrances to this town, namely the one on the north, admits only foot passengers ; the one on the east admits horses and carts, or anything else. In the centre of the town is an inside wall, which serves to inclose the castle, and there is an arched entrance to it^ with a strong door, which stands to this day. Inside of the castle there is a large building, which was used for stores in ancient times. Four dismounted cannons remain on the castle to this day, but the building is otherwise in ruins. As to the town, the streets are very narrow, confused, and run in all directions ; but in general are pretty clean, although the inhabitants are not to thank for this, for there is a Superior Being above who sends rain now and then, to clear the filth and impurities down the street, and from thence into the river Coa. This town is the poorest in the county, as it contains only a few farmers. It is divided in¬ to two parishes, and contains from seven to eight hundred inhabitants.

Since I have described the town so well, I also consider it necessary to give a short ac¬ count of a justice court which holds there. To this court twenty-one parishes are attached, which belong to the same county, and it is com¬ posed of two Juis de Ordenero, two Verederos, two Almontecals, and one Escrevor and two Merenhas belong to this department. Also at¬ tached to this court are, one Juis Dosorfanes, and one Escrevor. The two Juis above men^ tioned preside in the court as magistrates or county justices of the peace — the two Veredores survey roads, bridges, and trenches in the highway, and fine those who do not keep these in order — the two Almontecals visit towns and fairs in the county, and grant liberty to the merchants to sell their goods, by paying a small duty, which they collect, and which they give to higher authorities — the Escrevor is a clerk, who notes the proceedings of the court. This court holds every Wednesday and Saturday, at ten o’clock. Merenhas, or door-keepers, are for the purpose of summoning people to the court, through the county. Also in this court sit the Juis Dosorfanes and his clerk, for the special purpose of pleading the cases belong¬ ing to minors. In this town reside two doc¬ tors of law, e. advocates, who give advice to any person for payment. As I mentioned before, this is the poorest town in the county, and as there is not an acre of good ground surrounding it, except a few gardens, which supply the inhabitants with green vegetables during the summer, my readers will not won¬ der at it, and more especially since the town is built upon a rock. North-east from this town, about a quarter of a mile, stands a beau¬ tiful small summit, which is considerably high¬ er than the town, and consequently my readers will perceive that this town could not stand a siege, or hold out long in defence. As I was born in this county I considered myself bound to give the preceding description.

To return to my father’s history. In his early days he was instructed in the principles of Christianity by his father, and at ten years of age he was sent to the school of the parish, where he received a liberal education. He was very studious, and took great pains while at school to acquire sufficient knowledge, so

IS that he might be capable of embarking in any kind of business. After being six years at school, he wished to be put to a trade, and in order to accomplish this, he applied to his fa¬ ther, who wished to know what trade his in¬ clination led him to follow. In reply to his fa¬ ther’s question, he said he wished to be a wright, and accordingly his father readily pro¬ cured for him a master in the same parish. After his father made an agreement with his master, he was bound by an indenture to serve four years. During his apprenticeship he served his master respectably and honestly. In the year 17b4> being then in the 20th year of his age, he commenced working for himself as a journeyman for two years with the same master, and in the year I766 he lost his father, and likewise he lost his mother on the 23d of December, I768. He was left then to him¬ self, the same as many a young man in the world, and did not fail on his part to do the best for himself and his three brothers and sister, for a short time. During this period, he conducted himself with propriety and kind¬ ness to his brothers and sister, as a father to his children. In the year 17^9, he was ap¬ pointed to serve in the county as a Juis de Ordenero for one year, as they are commonly elected for one year only. He fulfilled his of¬ fice with great credit to himself, along with others who served at the same time. I do not need to explain this situation, as it has been mentioned before. My father, when he was young, having received a very liberal educa¬ tion, the reason that he accepted of the situa¬ tion before mentioned was for raising him in high estimation with his acquaintances.

My father having lived in a retired manner during his youth, he wished to be more retired in fu¬ ture, and accordingly, in the year of 177^> sought a wife in Port de Valha, in the same county. The lady was rather older than him • self, yet she accepted of him as a husband, although she was possessed of more wealth than he. My father and she were married on the 22d of October, 1772> without contract of marriage, and lived agreeably and honourably in my native place. He commenced a farmer along with his trade, working in the winter and wet days, or any other time when he had leisure ; and in the summer he worked his ground the same as other farmers. On the 10th of October, 177^? loving wife gave birth to a daughter, who is living in health with her family at present. On the first of January, 177^> father was appointed to another situation in the county, as Veredor. Having explained this situation before, I will not lose time in going over it again. No¬ thing occurred worth noticing during the time that he lived with his loving wife. In a short time after the birth of her child she took trouble, and, on the 29th of March, 1 77^? died, leaving my father to lament his loss ; but the consolation he had was his daughter, which re¬ mained for his comfort ; but he never neglect¬ ed his business, except for a short time. He found himself without help in his own house, and began to think of taking another wife, which he accordingly did in the year 177^* Having got the consent of the parents of a young woman in the parish of Demuzeala, in the same county, she, after a short courtship, agreed to take him for her husband, although she was younger than him ; and accordingly they were married on the 6th day of July, I78L I must say here she was my mother, and I will so call her after this. Her name was Thereza Pallos. My mother bore to my father seven children — three sons and four daughters. I am the youngest of the family. Two of them died in infancy. Besides me there is only one sister alive. Nothing of any consequence occurred worthy of explanation. My father and mother lived very comfortable, and carried on their business as usual. In the beginning of January, 17^4? he was appointed to serve another year in the county as Almonteacal. The duties of this situation I have already ex¬ plained, and my readers will find it in the de¬ scription of the county town. I must beg leave here to mention, that in Portugal gentle¬ men of education are always in the yoke, the same as carters’ horses in this country below the saddle, for they get plenty of work and little or nothing for it. My father and mother lived for twenty years together like a loving pair along with the remainder of their children and neighbours.

I may here remark that my father held several situations in the parish, both civil and ec¬ clesiastic, which situations he filled with fide¬ lity. My readers may be surprised how I am able to give such a particular account of my father's life, when 1 was so few months, (I may say weeks,) old when he died ; but this will be explained more fully in 1830. My father was of a robust constitution, five feet eight inches high, and enjoyed good health all his life, until his latter end. He died on 29th August, 1795. He gave his body to his mo¬ ther dust, and his soul to his Maker. This is the portion of all men.

Then let ns look to the Supreme Being above, and the Most High,

And when here below in dust we forgotten lie.

CHAP. n.

1 WAS born on 24th February, 1795. From this statement my readers will see that, at my fa* ther’s death, I was an infant. Being born on the day before St. Mathias’ day — a fast day held on the 25th of February — my parents gave me the surname of Mathias, in honour of that saint. Here 1 may repeat that for the ac¬ count given of my early history, I am indebted to my relations. In the latter end of the year 1779, the Spanish and Portuguese nations were put into a considerable state of agitation, in consequence of rumours of a French invasion, as my readers will see in the beginning of the present century, how the French came to in¬ vade Spain under the pretension of Friend¬ ship. But upon this subject I will not take up the time of my readers, as they may find it by referring to the History of the Peninsular War.

1 may mention that in 1805 the French made themselves masters of Spain. iVfter they made themselves masters of all the forts and garri¬ sons of that kingdom, Bonaparte was ordered to the command of the French army in Spain, to repair their armies, and march to the fron¬ tiers of Portugal, for the purpose of invading that kingdom. According to my best recol¬ lection, the French entered into Almeida, as poor as Lazarus, where they remained for a short time, and took two thousand prisoners, who were in the garrison at the time. The in¬ vaders took possession of all the arms of the garrison, and supplied themselves with them. After being reinforced and recruited, they were ordered to march to the north of Portu¬ gal, and as they went along took possession of and strengthened all the garrisons in that part of the country. All this they did under the pretence of friendship. At last they arrived at Lisbon, intending to take the Royal Family prisoners, as they had done with the Spanish monarch, but the King being suspicious of their friendship, had escaped with his retinue six

hours before the French army arrived. They

B embarked in a ship of war to Rio de Janeiro ^ I am sorry that I cannot trace his Majesty any farther, and I have to thank a friend for the the above information, which I collected in 1813. General Junot, the French com¬ mander, remained in possession of Lisbon, and declared himself King of that kingdom. But 1 must leave off this city for a time, and commence my narrative as a traveller through the world i

After my mother was left a widow, with five children, she did all in her power to instruct them in the fear of God, and carried on her business as usualj but that continued for a short time only, for, to her great lamentation, shortly after my father died, she lost three of her children, which left only two, of which I am, as I have already mentioned, the youngest. My mother thought proper to dispose of her stock of cattle, and set part of her property, and wrought the rest, thinking to bring up her two children without carrying on the farming to such an extent. In the year I8O7 she put me to school in the same parish in which I was born, and nothing remained on my part for to do but I executed faithfully to obtain know* ledge in the different branches of education. I may mention here that I continued for a very short time only at school. The master said to my mother that I would have been the best literary character in the country, if I had con¬ tinued a little longer. After having been at school for sometime, the schoolmaster came a second time, and said to her that he hoped I would be continued at school, for he would as* sure her that I would improve my time and talents to good purpose, and at the same time I would be a help to her in her declining years, She shed tears, and I did the same. A short conversation went on betwixt them, and she invited him to his dinner, and he remained all afternoon. My mother then desired him to do his best to me as I was an orphan, and at the the same time to write a letter to my paternal uncle, who was my guardian.

As soon as he received the letter, he came and visited my mother and me, and expressed his satisfaction on hearing so good accounts of his ward. Af¬ ter having dined, he called me and said, “ Ma¬ thias, I am glad to hear of your good attention at school, and I will not fail on my part in doing any thing to support you. You will al¬ ways love your friends and honour your neigh¬ bours, and do whatever lies in your power ta obey your mother’s commands. She will help you, and you will guide her in her old days, and if you speak no evil of your neighbours, they will speak no ill against you ; and a re¬ ward from above will be in reserve for you, by Him who giveth us all things in time of need.’’ This address, as might have been expected, had the effect of producing a second effusion of tears from him to whom it was addressed, and the same effect on her who gave me birth. My uncle left us in the afternoon, and at part¬ ing observed that the time was at hand when the husband would not know his wife, nor the mother her children ; for they will all take up arms to defend their country, and remove the burden imposed on us by our cruel foes from our shoulders ; fatigues and distresses were only beginning in the country. In a short time after this my teacher resigned his charge ; for what reason I have not been able to learn. On his resignation I had nothing to do. My mother said I should win a pair of shoes to myself. Being young and unable to work, I knew not what to do. My readers will not conjecture what means T took to win my pair of shoes ; but I will not neglect to give an ex¬ planation.

Being in harvest I went to the fields and gathered heads of rye, and thrashed them; of these I collected two bushels — sold them, and with the price purchased a pair of shoes. These were my first pair of shoes. 1 had no sooner got them than I was seized with an inflammatory fever, which rendered me insensible and delirious for nearly three weeks, and during this time I was so much set upon my shoes, that all my affliction, as ex¬ pressed in unconscious raving, was the fear least death should finish my career, and thus forever separate me from the shoes. Shortly after this another teacher succeeded my former master. I was sent to his school, but remained a very short time, on account of the disturbed state of the country, the school having been given up. The French army was at this time in possession of Almeida, but my readers will recollect that after Junot was surrounded with the British army, under the command of Sir Arthur Wellesley, a British ambassador was sent to Almeida, which place was also sur¬ rounded by the British army, shortly after¬ wards advanced to the frontiers of Spain. But before I proceed any farther, I will make a few remarks on the conduct of our old friend General Junot. This gentleman, after supply¬ ing himself and his army at Lisbon, sent a proclamation to be read in every parish church, commanding the inhabitants to use the French army in a friendly manner. A second procla¬ mation followed this, commanding the inhabi¬ tants to give up all, or part of the silver which adorned the churches ; but, as might have been expected, this proclamation was not attended to, as the inhabitants would sooner have parted with their wives than with these ornaments. This caused a jealousy at the proceedings of the French. A third proclamation ordered fowling pieces and fire arms of every descrip¬ tion to be delivered to the French, at each county town, under a heavy penalty, in case of failure. This kindled a fire in the minds of the inhabitants of the kingdom more than any thing else ever proposed by the French. Every one adopted means for secreting his arms, judging, rightly, that they might in a short time require to use them against those v^ho now seemed so anxious to be in possession of them.

I have returned to my narrative. After the French were out of Almeida, the city was gar¬ risoned by two regiments of militia, which for¬ tified that place till 1810. In the meantime the British army had advanced very slowly ; but this I will explain more particularly after¬ wards. At this period the people rejoiced that they had got quit of the invaders, but, alasl this rejoicing only continued for a short time. In 1808 the Spanish nation, which was at this time under the French, rose in arms against them ; and to accomplish this purpose, courts were established in the different head towns of the provinces, that they might be the better enabled to support General Castanhas, Pane, Black, and others, who had at this time nearly 100,000 organized men under them. After a short time they took several garrisons from the French, and partially succeeded in driving them beyond the Pyrennees. At this move¬ ment Bonaparte was enraged, and put General Mascana at the head of a formidable army, for the purpose of subduing the Spanish na¬ tion a second time, and Bonaparte at this time was resolved to crown his brother king of Spain, and plant the eagle on the forts of Lis¬ bon, but in this design he was baffled. The French were advancing to the centre of Spain, taking garrisons, and driving the Spaniards before them, by which operation General Block’s army was totally annihilated near to the province of Basca, and the rest of the army was obliged to retreat, being pursued keenly by the French. General Castanhas with all his army, fought bravely against the French, near Salamanca, but was at last compelled to re¬ treat to the provinces of Galezia, where the British army was at this time stationed, and were operating against the French in that part of the country. This part of my subject I will not trace farther at present, but 1 will return to it in some other part of my history, as I must return nearer to my home. In 1S09, the fron¬ tiers of Portugal and the kingdom of Leon in

Spain, were once more endeavouring to take up arms against their invaders. The different corps which were raised at this time, were called GureJs, or National Guards; but they served no other use than that of watching the movements of the French, and skirmishing with them, when they found that they were fewer in number than themselves. In 1810, His Grace the Duke of Wellington and Mar¬ tial Beresford, advanced slowly with their armies, composed of British, Portuguese and Spanish, as far as Cedade Rodrigo. But General Mascana,the French commander, ad¬ vanced with his powerful army to oppose the said armies. But the Duke of Wellington being aware of superior forces coming against him, thought proper to retire towards Almeida. In the meantime, the French attacked and took the Spanish garrison at Rodrigo, although the Spanish held out as long as possible. After this had been accomplished, the French marched against Almeida, for the purpose of conquering the garrison of this city, which they accomplished in August 1810. Duke Wellington at this time was on the north side of the river Coa, still unable to oppose Mas-; cana, and continued his retreat towards Guar^ deand Calerico,in the direction of Bosax, where he fought the battle of Busacco. But I am sorry that I am not able to trace his Grace any farther at present.

I come now to speak more properly of my own life. My readers will recollect as I have before mentioned, that the country only en¬ joyed a short time tranquility. F or after the Duke of Wellington retired towards Tores Verdes, the inhabitants were plunged in deeper misery than they had even been previously, as the re-r inforcements to the French army were pass¬ ing and repassing, plundering and massacring all the peasants that came in their way, and more particularly those who were found to have fire-arms in their possession. I have mem tioned the organizing of the Gurels armies be¬ fore, and their assistance at this time to defend themselves, was more essentially necessary than ever. In the county which I belong to, with other three, no less than 5 or 6 hundred men were raised for the purpose of defending themselves and opposing their invaders, and I made one of their number. Every county had a captain, and we took for our captain an old soldier belonging to the regiment of Almeida. This soldier received his discharge from that regiment, on the first arrival of the French in that city. We made choice of this man as he was an old soldier, and consequently acquainted with military duties. I will be able to give a correct statement of his proceedings, as I was under him till the Duke of Wellington return¬ ed to the frontiers of Spain. In the first place, we were supplied with arms by taking them_^ where we could find them ; and then we made our head quarters in Meuzila, taking meat and drinkwhere we could find them also.

In Septem¬ ber 12th 1810, the master of a flour mill came and gave notice to our commander, that a part of the French army was quartered in his mill, for the purpose of making flour. This mill lies near the county town on the river Coa. The master of the mill wished our commander to drive the French from the mill, and accord¬ ingly, after giving orders to the neighbouring counties, which lie on the south side of the river, to assist us in our design, we proceeded to the mill, after being sufficiently reinforced with men (amounting to five or six hundred) and amunition, on the 15th of September at three o’clock in the morning, with our Captain Manoel Desprencaat our head, and before the French were aware of our design, we attacked the mill on the north side, assisted by the other two corps from the south. On arriving within 21 yards from the mill, we received or¬ ders to fire against a few of the French, who were walking about outside of the mill, and in a few seconds, the French to the amount of from four to five hundred were in readiness to attack us. Notwithstanding of this, our Cap¬ tain ordered us to discharge another fire, and to lower our guns as soon as possible, and we charged them with as much courage as if we had been warriors for twenty years. On this the French retreated by crossing the river, and we still pursued and discharging our fire. The rest of our corps which were lying on the south side, pursued them during the time that we were engaged in destroying the mill. In this action, we took two horses which were tied to a tree, 40 fire arras, 6 swords, and 30 knapsacks* also two of the enemy were killed, and one of our men wounded. After we ac¬ complished our design, which was to break the wheels and stones of the mill, we retired in good order to a short distance from the mill, when the prophecy of my uncle came in¬ to my mind, which was, “ that the husband should not know his wife, nor the mother her children.” I may mention here that this was the first action I ever saw. On the following day our commander sent to General Silvera, who was then on the banks of the Douro, near Lamego, an account of our action, along with the two horses which we took from the enemy. General Silvera returned many thanks to our commander, along with 200 dollars, to be dis¬ tributed among his corps, as a reward for their bravery. On the 20th, our commander re¬ ceived intelligence that a party of the French plunderers had arrived at a small village called Jardo, situated in my native parish, and carried off 200 sheep, belonging to a farmer, which was all the man had. Without delay, our com¬ mander, with 150 men, marched to Jardo, for