The royal cookery book (le livre de cuisine)

Front matter

22101420048

THE

ROYAL COOKERY BOOK

Part The Second Iiigii-class Cookery

CHAPTER

I. SOUPS

II. SAUCES

III. GARNISHES AND FORCEMEATS .

IV. HOT HORS-D’OEUVRE

V. BEEF

VI. VEAL

VII. MUTTON

VIII. PORK

IX. LAMB

X. POULTRY

XI. GAME *

XII. FISH AND SHELL-FISH

XIII. ENTREES OF PASTRY

XIV. ENTREMETS, OR SECOND COURSE DISHES

XV. COLD DISHES •

XVI. HOT AND COLD SWEET ENTREMETS . .

XVII. DESSERT

PAGE

Part ti-ie First

HOUSEHOLD COOKERY

B

KITCHEN UTENSILS

Under this heading I have collected a number of precepts and elementary principles, which I consider the very bases of domestic and high-class cookery. I must bespeak for this Chapter the best attention of those of my readers who wish to study the practice of cookery from its starting point. Plain cooks will find here some very essential directions, which I would also recommend masters and mistresses making them-

nrovhlpadC(fUai-nted Wltm lf they Care about their table being provided for in a suitable manner.

The following short list of the subjects of these Preliminary Observations will at once show their importance"!! ^

bv **, Cookery-^ Pairing What is understood

by these, I shah endeavour to give them their proper value

onlv^b V°ldmI’ aS mUCh aS p0ssible’ tbose technicalities which only obscure the meaning.

to Sdt ftChm Arrannements—. [t is self-evident that to work to advantage a proper locale is required. I make a m-eat noim of a clean and well kept kitchen ; on this head I ££ n u 2 should contain ; as well as some indications respecting firing, according to the degree of heat required for different operations.

4th. Purveying. — Conveying a few hints on marketing and selecting.

5th. Spices and Herbs. — Explaining their use and the manner of preparing them ; in each recipe I quote exact quantities, as I have done throughout the work.

6th. Table Arrangements and Serving. — I conclude by indicating the way of serving meals properly — both from the kitchen and in the dining-room. I believe that in studying these preliminaries, with care and intelligence, bearing them in mind, and applying them when at work, the progress in cookery will be rapid, and the tedious time of apprenticeship considerably curtailed.

KITCHEN BELLOWS

I

TERMS USED IN COOKERY

I head this Chapter thus, more in deference to the generally adopted custom, than from my own convictions. For there are no, properly so-called, Cookery terms now : modern cookery, following the progress of the age, is natural and simple, and should be expressed in terms understood by all. If certain technicalities, now mostly obsolete, had formerly crept in, there is no advantage in perpetuating them; as, barring a very few exceptions, the things they represent can be expressed just as well in the ordinary phraseology. It will, therefore, be rather of cookery operations , than terms , that I shall have to treat of here ; it is essential to have, at least, an exact notion of the former, before entering into further details of the culinary art.

To blanch is to parboil, or scald in water, for a determined length of time, certain vegetables, with a view to remove their acrid flavour — calves’ heads and feet are similarly blanched, to soften them and facilitate their trimming.

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To braize is to cook meat slowly in a closed stewpan, adapted to liold live coals on its cover.

To clarify — this applies to the operation of clearing, or freeing of' foreign bodies, jellies, gravies, broths and butter. Jellies are clarified with egg ; gravies and broths are clarified, with meat, and butter, by melting on a slow fire and straining through a cloth ; it is then used in many cooking operations.

To cool is to pour cold water over vegetables, &c., after blanching, to preserve their colour.

To glaze is to paint with a brush, dipped in thick gravy, called glaze , larded meats, roasts, hams, and sautes.

This term is also applied to the sugaring over of fritters, pancakes, and cakes.

To moisten is to add sufficient liquid in a stewpan for stewing.

To reduce is to boil broth down to a glaze, gradually slackening the heat.

To sauter is to. fry with little butter over a brisk fire.

To score is to make cross incisions on fish or vegetables, to facilitate cooking.

To singe is to pass plucked fowls or game over a flame — -a spirit lamp is very handy for this.

To trim is to cut away those portions of a fowl or piece of meat which spoil its appearance.

To truss is to tie a fowl, or game, together with string, passed through it in such way as to prevent its getting out of the shape given to it, either for roasting or boiling.

To turn is to cut vegetables or fruit, for garnishes, into the shape of corks, balls, pears, &c.

II

KITCHEN ARRANGEMENTS

The very first consideration under this head is — that a kitchen should be as large and as well ventilated as possible ; well supplied with all the necessary utensils and appliances. Those who wish to live well should study the comfort of their servants, by making such arrangements as will ensure satisfactory results. Unfortunately, even in some of the wealthiest houses, where luxury and comfort have been so much studied, the kitchen is often that part which is most neglected, and where the simplest teachings of experience and notions' of progress have been discarded \ there is certainly much here that calls tor amendment. However, as in this First Part we are treating of Domestic Cookery, we must be content with ordinary kitchens, as they are found in' most houses of the middle classes. We will not deny that in many, even high-priced houses, the kitchens will be found deficient in size, light, and accommodation ; and that this is an evil : but, an intelligent cook should, by care, goodwill, and dexterity, strive, even under such disadvantages, to arrive at good results. In our profession one must often be content with things as one finds them : there are not many such kitchens as those of Chantilly and Ferrieres ; but I maintain that, even in very small ones, good, nay excellent, things may be made. I mention this mainly for beginners, who should not be discouraged on finding themselves called upon to work in unsuitable locales ; they must learn to make the best of them; improvements in kitchen arrangements being, unfortunately, but matter of slow progress. As an example of the practical philosophy requisite m such a case I will instance what happened to one of my most intimate

friends who, on being called to Baron D ’s chateau at Argen-

teuil found on his arrival that he was expected to make two large vieces montees and an entree, with no better accommodation than was offered by a narrow passage ; and with no other appliances than a hanging shelf and a marble slab let into the wall. Vv ithout either baking-sheets or tins, it was necessary to bake the pate d! office in the dripping-pan, which fortunately was of copper, ant had but recently been tinned ; our friend discovered a perfect treasure in such a strait in the shape of two japanned iron trays which, after their varnish had been burnt oil, he papered and used as baking-sheets, for puff paste and cakes for garnishes. In spite of all, and of being obliged to dish up on the swinging shelf he not only creditably accomplished his task, but received such.5 praise, as other cooks, provided with all the requisite apphances1 might not have obtained. By mentioning this fact I do noUntend to advocate bad kitchens, but to show that much may be done in an inconvenient locale ; the more inconvenient a btehen may be the more need for cleanliness,, carefulness, and foi nlentifidand good utensils to simplify ones work. .

P Cleanliness ’ cleanliness !-the great essential m all cooking

operations should, I maintain at the risk of being thought over

particular be written in large capitals on the door ol every itcl en, large or small ;-a kitchen may be sma 1, badly arranged and lighted ; but it should never, on any plea, be dirty.

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I will mention the principal points to observe to secure this desideratum ; not fearing to enter into details which will only appear minute to those without experience, and who cannot imagine that, in many cases, failure is attributable to a want of attention to cleanliness. Nothing more than a dirty saucepan will often be sufficient to spoil the effect of a whole dinner ! I would therefore recommend :

That . the floor of every kitchen be scoured at least once a

week with plenty of water ; then sprinkled with sawdust, to be changed daily.

Let the sink be scoured daily with soft soap and boiling water, then well rinsed. &

Iron stoves should be washed, scraped, and black-leaded every evening.

. Charcoal stoves should be brushed when in use, and whitened at mgiit.

When the clay’s work is clone, open all windows to dispel unpleasant smells ; when the fires are out, a kitchen should be £is fiee from smell £is tlie dining-room.

■drttl1 kitC]!en UtenSlIs sll0uld be examined daily, and every article, such as copper saucepans, beginning to redden should

be returned I do not like the plan of having a general rkinnin.

^tiCr>lfaU\fiXed-mte-rVa1^ but think H Preferable to send each f nlnffir f Evei70ne knows the unwholesomeness

carTeLV'aavoidgecC tfgSj tuT f°"ld be

much to the labour of cleaning engenders adds

I think it quite right that saucepans should be britrht ,, i polished, and am one of the first to ^ i • • bllght and

saucepans in a kitchen ; b St fee lean “ f o th "7 TOWS of be sacrificed to the brightness

may be the case I have often experienced. In thTkitch™ h of the state of the remainder by this speeimel ° Th“£^ taken to heart ; having been in the same kitchen many times since, I have always found the utensils everything that could be wished.

Ill

KITCHEN APPOINTMENTS

Let every kitchen, large or small, be provided with the best possible utensils ; this is a rule which any sensible person, even if entirely wanting in practical knowledge of our profession, must admit ; for it is unreasonable to expect cooking to be well done without the necessary implements. Therefore, I have thought the following good advice to give to every housekeeper, even to the one who looks the closest to expense : ‘ Let your kitchen contain every requisite ; you will find it to your advanage, both as regards economy and successful results ; moreover, buy at the best shops and of the best.’ The old adage that ‘ Nothing is so dear as cheapness,’ applies very generally to all provisioning.

I give herewith a list of appointments for a good middle-class kitchen, in character with the recipes comprised in the First Part of this work. It will be observed that in naming the articles, I also explain their use, and, as' far as possible, how to employ them ; this will not, I think, be unchlled-for, as many beginners are unable to guess the object of articles often seen in kitchens.

KITCHEN UTENSILS

2 copper stock-pots — a 2-gallon one for making 1 gallon of broth, and a gallon one for ordinary use, to make 2 quarts of broth.

1 broth skimmer.

1 tinned copper slice, for boiled meat, vegetables, &c.

1 soup ladle.

2 oravy spoons, to dish up stews and take off fat.

10 sizes of copper stewpans, from 4 to 12 inches diameter

each stewpan provided with its lid. _

3 .saute-pans with covers, 8, 10, and 12 inches diametei.

1 oval pan, 12 inches long by 8 inches and 7 inches deep, with its drainer — this is used for all braizes, hams, fillets of beef, veal cushions, and even sometimes for fish.

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1 glazing stewpan and cover, 8 inches diameter, 5 inches deep. 1 turbot kettle with drainer, 18 inches by 10.

SPOONS AND SKIMMERS

1 fish kettle with drainer, 22 inches by 7.

1 plain mould for Charlottes , timbales , and rice cakes.

1 cylinder mould for aspics , jellies, and creams.

1 pie mould.

2 open tart moulds.

I do not give the dimensions of the preceding moulds— thev must be selected to suit one’s requirements. ' ’ "

c

2 baking-sheets, 12 inches by 8.

4 copper baking-sheets, from 6 to 12 inches diameter.

^Toval tinned copper dishes, for gratins , one 12 inches by 7 ; one 10 inches by 8; one 16 inches by 9.

These dishes have no handles.

OVAL DISH FOR GRATINS

1 sheet iron cover witli turned-up edges, to brown gratins , &c. »

hold live coals to r

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1 tinned copper frying kettle, 13 inches by 10, and 4 inches deep ; this should have a handle at each end.

1 smaller frying kettle, 9 inches by 6, and 5 inches deep.

2 untinned iron frying-pans, one 8 inches diameter, the other 6 inches ; the smaller should be kept specially for omelets.

2 iron gridirons, one 8 inches, the other 12 inches.

POINTED GRAVY STRAINER

1 wire frying-basket, used to prevent what is frying from catching at the bottom of the kettle, and also to facilitate the removal, at one operation, of the things fried ; this is very useful in the case of fritters, croquets, &c.

2 tin colanders, 5 and 4 inches diameter ; these colanders having very fine holes, are, in moderate households, substituted for tammy cloth.

6 wooden spoons of different sizes.

1 tinned wire sieve for purees.

BOX OF LARDING NEEDLES

1 hard-wood puree- presser, to rub forcemeat and purees through the sieve. 1

1 large daubing needle for larding large braizes.

1 medium larding needle for similar use.

1 box of 12 larding needles, for fillets of beef, veal sweetbreads, fillets of venison, &c.

cushions,

2 steel trussing needles, 6 and 8 inches long. 1 cutlet bat.

LARGE AND MEDIUM LARDING NEEDLE

MEAT CLEAVER

CUTLET BAT.

1 meat cleaver.

2 mincing knives for forcemeat, vegetables, Arc 1 meat saw.

trussing needles

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1 marble mortar, 10 inches diameter, 7 inches deep, with hard-wood pestle ; this is indispensable in a kitchen, to pound forcemeat, godiveaux , quenelles , purees , &c.

1 rolling pin, 18 inches long by 2 inches diameter.

1 tin sugar dredger, for sweets, cakes, &c.

2 boxes of cutters, one of plain, the other of fluted ; these are used for patties, vol-au-vent , &c.,

1 box of long cutters for vegetables.

1 syrup gauge and tall testing glass, to determine the quantities of sugar in compotes , jellies, and preserves. The gauge is ascertained to be correct by plunging in cold water, where it should register zero.

MEAT SAW

2 chopping-boards, 18 inches by 12 by 2.

1 wooden block.

1 set of scales and weights, capable of weighing up to 28 lbs. 12 sizes of basins.

6 common dishes ; 10, 12, and 14 inches long.

KITCHEN KNIVES

1 beech-wood kitchen table, with drawers.

1 filter.

2 tin funnels.

3 kitchen knives.

2 pastry knives.

12 diaper cloths for straining consommes and jellies ; these take the place of silk sieves, which are so expensive and of little wear.

meat safe, to fit a window

1 meat safe. I annex two illustrations of small handy safes ; things should be allowed to become perfectly cold before being put in a safe.

1 clock ; this is indispensable in a kitchen, to ensure regularity in cooking and punctuality in serving.

1 spirit lamp : in kitchens that have no charcoal stoves this

is used for singeing poultry, &c.

1 quart measure 1 pint „

1 halfpint „

1 gill

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HANGING SAFE

Remarks on Kitchen Utensils

I recommend copper saucepans, although not to the entire exclusion of tinned iron articles, which, if cheaper, do not last so long or answer as well as copper saucepans, stewpans, and glazing pans. Such utensils as stock-pots, braizing-pans and fishkettles are, however, just as good when made of tinned iron.

The foregoing list of kitchen articles, which I consider indispensable for the use of an average household, is not in excess of what will be required to cook for two persons, and is equal to providing for twelve, — a figure I have not wished to exceed, in order to stay within the limits of domestic cookery. I need not add that this list can be modified according to circumstances: for instance, in households where there are never more than two, or four, or six, to provide for, the first and second sizes of stock-pots and stewpans would alone be necessary ; also, where no preserves are made at home, the preserving pan and skimmer would be superfluous. Without wishing to swell the estimates —my constant object having been, in this First Part, to study economy — I would still suggest that, however unnecessary it may be to provide things in excess of one’s own requirements, there are but few households where there is not, now and then, an extra dinner party, and that it is advisable that every household should possess the things needful to meet these occurrences.

Everyone knows from experience the unpleasantness of wanting, in the busy hour of preparation for a dinner, such and such indispensable articles, which the cook asks for in vain, and which the mistress bitterly regrets not including, from the first, in her household-fittings.

I would also point out that, in the matter of stewpans, gridirons, frying-pans, &c., there is generally a double advantage in choosing large in preference to smaller articles ; for, in the first place, it is easier to work satisfactorily in large quantities ; and it is also often preferable to make dishes sufficient for four or five persons, even if there be only two to partake of them. Time and fuel are saved thereby, and the evil of shortness of supply thus avoided. Taken as a whole, the expense of fitting up a kitchen properly is, after all, but very trifling ; good utensils, carefully bought and well looked after, will last a whole lifetime : the first cost is, therefore, the only consideration. It is at all events a satisfaction to know, that, if your meals are badly served, the fault does not lie in a short-sighted curtailment of appliances.

KITCHEN STOVES AND RANGES

Of these the most general are — the old-fashioned Charcoal Stove and the patent Kitchener. A charcoal stove should have three firm" holes ; one 7 inches square, and the two others 6 inches square. These will suffice for the whole cookery treated of in the First Part of this work. The main point is to well fill the largest hole, in such away as to set boiling stock-pot, blanchings, vegetables, &c. The two other openings are used— the one for simmering braizes, and the other for seveial pui poses where little heat is generally required. Pound one of the openings a stock-pot and three saucepans will simmer at once, pi o% ided a brisk fire is kept up, and fresh fuel constantly added in the centib without disturbing the saucepans. Lhe cook should so manage that the larger opening should be always in use for those things which require brisk cooking, and which should

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I)

IMPROVED STOVE follow one another in uninterrupted succession, so as to avoid loss of fuel.

Coal is used in the kitchener, which consists of a plate of iron heated by a covered fire below. The opening is fitted with one or two removable iron rings, which serve to graduate the heat : when a very brisk fire is required they are taken out. Upon the hot plate, saucepans and stock-pots are arranged, according to the heat they require. The oven, which is below the plate on one side of the fire, is used for glazing, braizes, entremets , pastry, and gratins.

Both stove and kitchener have their special advantages : the charcoal stove certainly facilitates the giving a greater finish, to dishes ; whilst the kitchener, by its oven, allows of baking gratins , souffles , and pastry, none of which can be attempted with the former. The main point is to know how to use both equally well, and to be doubly careful in undertaking those operations for which either the one or the other is less adapted ; as, in the question of locale , I will repeat that one must know how in cookery to overcome difficulties.

I have met in a private household with an improved stove which appeared to me to combine the advantages of stove and kitchener : I will give a description of it herewith. I do not wish to recommend it to the exclusion of all others, particularly as I always advise that use should be made of the stoves and kitcheners such as they are found ; but anyone having to get one constructed could not do better than adopt this one.

SECTION OF IMPROVE.!) ROASTING APPAR ATI’S

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Pli E LI MIN ARY OBSERVATIONS

This stove (vide woodcut, page 17) being built of brick, with an iron plate on the top only, the extreme heat attending kitcheners is avoided. It is so arranged as to bum wood, or coal. The iron plate only extends over the lire hole and oven. It is of sufficient size for ordinary cooking. Beyond this hot plate there is an opening on the left for burning charcoal, where sauces, liaisons , caramels , and things requiring a moderate heat, may be cooked.

While speaking of stoves and firing I will most particularly recommend gas stoves, which can be used with so much advantage where a steady and even degree of heat is required. I am surprised this invention has not become more general, and its utility, in so many operations, recognised. The gas stove, moreover, takes very little room ; a consideration not to be overlooked in many kitchens. Besides stoves, a kitchen, unprovided with an open range, should contain a roasting and broiling apparatus ; namely, an open grate fixed in the wall, with a roasting-jack and screen, attached. This arrangement is particularly adapted to small kitchens.

In kitchens where neither charcoal, or gas stove, or kitchener, is to be found, the common open range is a fair substitute. The top of the oven will be the best place for slow cooking, and the oven itself will be used as in the case of a kitchener. 05

KITCHEN FIRES AND FUEL

There are, in cookery parlance, several descriptions of fires suited to the different cooking operations. I think it will be use ful, without entering here into details as to duration of cookiim for this will be specified m each recipe, to give a general idea

1st. Stock-pot fire : very slow and continuous: this will be enlarged upon m paragraph Pot-au-feu.

2nd. Broiling fire: which should be very equal; i. e. with the fuel thoroughly lighted in all parts.

ord. Roasting fire: a bright steady fire, which should never be allowed to get low.

On the stove corner is an expression continually recurrino- i„ explaining cooking operations: as I shall make use of it often

derstood^ neCGSSary tliat its meaning should be thoroughly un- When we speak of a stewpan being put on the stove corner ■, it is to convey that a slow fire is required, so that its contents should be kept simmering only. Ebullition will then only take place on one side of the stewpan : with a sauce, for example, a few air bubbles will alone rise on the side next the fire. With charcoal stoves this is easy to manage, as the stewpan may be put on the angle of the opening : thus, with a 10-inch stewpan, only about four inches should be on the fire : if this latter is too brisk, it should be partly covered with ashes. But with coal fires, either in kitcheners or open ranges, this operation becomes more difficult ; even the expression on the stove corner is inappropriate : the stewpans should then, however, be arranged on the hot plate, or the hob, in such a way that boiling shall only take place on one side.

REMARKS ON BOILING AND REDUCING

Upon these two operations I may make the following remarks,

gathered from my personal experience.

To cook satisfactorily by boiling, a slow and steady tire should be kept up. Do not expect to hasten the cooking by indiscriminately heaping up the fuel. Once the boiling point reached, all excess of heat is wasted : you will lose the benefit ot a progressive cooking without expediting it.

To reduce, on the contrary, a brisk fire producing quick evaporation is indispensable. A glaze, or sauce, reduced too slow y will lose at once in appearance and flavour.

IV

PROVISIONING

It is quite evident that, without good materials the greatest cook in the world will never produce anything palatable. loo great a care cannot, therefore, be paid to one s provisioning and marketing : this alone is a study of itself, to be mastered, a* other branches of the culinary art, by experience and practice.

I must limit my remarks here to certain general notions upon the aTof choosing and buying. I shall have to recur m greater detail on the outward appearance of meat, fish, game, and \c&e tables, when treating of each in their respective chapters

As first hints, or fundamental rules, for inexperienced buyers,

I will only say : —

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Before making your purchases, learn, first of all, the ruling prices of those things you require, which you can easily do by enquiring at different shops.

Never bind yourself to any special tradesman. Do not give your custom, nor your whole confidence, to one individual. Bely rather upon your own judgment and observation, than upon a tradesman’s word, however trustworthy he may be.

Whenever any article is pressed upon you, be more particularly on your guard : there are very few tradesmen who can resist the temptation of palming off, at all hazard, any remaining fish, game, or meat of questionable freshness.

Be on good terms with all tradespeople, without becoming intimate with any. It is very seldom that a too great familiarity does not, in the long run, result in some unfair advantage being taken of the purchaser.

The following are a few elementary principles which it will be well to be guided by in the selection of provisions : —

BUTCHER’S MEAT

Beef should be chosen of a bright red colour, with light yellow fat, approaching the hue of fresh butter. If the beef should be hard and firm to the touch, with flaccid and little fat, of a brown and dull colour, these are sure indications of inferior quality.

As complement to what concerns beef, we represent beef kidney of superior and inferior qualities.

Yeal should be chosen of a light colour, with very white and transparent fat. Avoid lean veal of a reddish tint, and the kidney of which is surrounded by red-looking fat.

Prime mutton is known by the same signs as good beef, viz. a bright red colour, freedom from gristle, and very white and transparent fat.

Inferior mutton is of a dull red colour, with yellow and opaque

In the first place, poultry should be selected very tender, particularly when not in season, from the 1st of December to the 1st of May. Spring chickens begin in May, but at any time they should be carefully examined before buying. A tender chicken is known by the size of its feet and neck ; a young fowl always has large feet and knee-joints : these characteristics disappear with age. A tough fowl has a thin neck and feet, and the flesh of the thigh has a slight violet tinge.

After examining these external signs, the flesh of the pinion and breast should be tried : if tender in both these places, the chicken can be used with confidence.

Never use Old Fowls

I call particular attention to this principle, which I consider a very important one — Never use an old fowl in cookery. Whichever way you dress it, it will never be good. It is a great mistake to recommend, as in many Cookery Books, the putting of an old hen in the stock-pot. Instead of improving the broth, it can do nothing but impart to it the unpleasant flavour of the hen-house. It is also a mistake to expect to make a good daube with an old goose or turkey ; nothing but a bad result will be obtained. It is well, however, to distinguish between hard, but young, poultry and the toughness of an old fowl. With the former something may be done, by means indicated in the Chapter specially devoted to Poultry ; but with the old and tough birds, I repeat most emphatically, nothing, absolutely nothing, can be done.

A good turkey will be recognised by the whiteness of the flesh and fat. Beware of those with long hairs, and whose flesh, on the legs and back, is of a violet tinge.

To select a goose, try the flesh of the pinion and break off the lower part of the beak, which should break easily : the fat should be light coloured and transparent. Ducks are chosen in the same way.

Pigeons should have fillets of a light red colour ; when old, these darken to blackish violet, and the legs get thin.

FISH

A fresh fish is recognisable by the redness of the gills, the brightness of the eyes, and the firmness of the flesh.

It is not enough to be guided by the smell : it may have laid days on ice without acquiring any noticeable smell, but the flesh in such a case will be dull and flaccid, and care should be taken not to employ fish in that condition.