The European in India, or, Anglo-Indian's vade-mecum : a handbook of useful and practical information for those proceeding to or residing in the East Indies, relating to outfits, time for departure, Indian climate and seasons, housekeeping, servants, etc., etc. also an account of Anglo-Indian social customs and native character

Front matter

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Preface To The First Edition

AMONG the first persons I met upon returning home last summer, from a residence of fifteen years in Ceylon and different parts of India, were two near relatives, themselves about to go out to India. It was, therefore, natural that there should prove to be many subjects upon which I found myself in a position to give them information and advice ; and such were the circumstances which suggested to me the idea, at a time when I was temporarily released from the harness of regular occupation, of writing a work, to serve as a compendium of practical hints relating to daily life in India, for the use of that important class who year by year go out to swell the ranks of the Anglo-Indian community.

The young European, on receiving an Indian appointment, is in the majority of cases beset by a variety of doubts and anxieties, which it is not easy to set at rest. He feels himself about to set out on a pilgrimage, regarding which he is necessarily very ignorant, and naturally feels impelled to look round for information, (i) as to the outfit he should provide himself with ; (2) as to the route he should take ; (3) the time to set out ; or, if unable to regulate the time, (4) the season he is likely to meet with in India, when he gets there ; and so on almost ad infinitum. Probably he comes across people who have had some experience of Indian life, and picks up a little inforvm

Preface

mation from one and another ; but owing to the looseness 6f these scraps, and the divergence sure to be met with in the hastily expressed opinions of a number of different persons, he finds himself as much bewildered as ever, if not more so.

At this period, too, Indian life assumes for him an interest, which (although if obliged to do so, he might wait for an experimental knowledge) he will be glad to satisfy at once, on an opportunity being presented. And even after he arrives in India, every European finds himself surrounded by a state of things probably quite different from the picture formed in his imagination, and in every respect strange and new ; and at once sees, that there are numberless details in matters of everyday life, with regard to which judicious advice, explanation, or warning, would impart to him confidence and protection.

As far as I am aware, there is no book yet published which assumes to fill the void created by this state of things. “The English-woman in India,” published some years ago, though containing many useful hints to ladies, is somewhat curt and limited in scope ; while the ordinary hand-books, though interesting as guides to places, and diffuse in descriptions of locality, do not pretend to take the place with regard to everyday life, which is the object of the present work.

All these considerations I have kept carefully in view throughout, having recalled to memory my own feelings when I first went out to the East in 1855.

Commencing with the subject of outfits, the following pages will be found to treat of routes, first impressions on landing, climate, servants, housekeeping, travelling and a variety of other subjects.

Some space is devoted to a description of native

PREFACE.

IX

— trip

character and manners, under the conviction, that a knowledge on these points is indispensable to all who would cultivate the natives’ esteem and confidence, an object of special importance to probably the majority of Anglo-Indians.

It was suggested to me, that such a work should be terse and concise, so as to consist merely of a set of dry practical rules and facts under different headings, to which (without looking through it as a whole) the Anglo-Indian might refer for casual information from time to time, as immediately necessary. My own view, however, has been that this could easily be carried too far, and that there is a class of readers at home to whom the present volume might be made interesting — their tastes and position being also borne in mind : persons who though not themselves going out to the East, are yet interested in India through having friends and relatives there ; or who consider the fact of its being a part of the queen’s dominions, containing about six times the population of Great Britain, a sufficient plea for such interest.

I must now refer to what is certainly not the least valuable part of this volume — that written by my friend Dr. Mair. In designing the scope of the work, jt became obvious to me, that it would be incomplete without the fullest instructions for the means of preserving health, and for the treatment of the more common forms of disease. And here a difficulty presented itself ; for, though I had had considerable amateur experience, while abroad, in the treatment of some of the most prevalent climatic disorders, I did not feel warranted (not being a professional man) in putting forward for public acceptance my own views upon such subjects.

I then wrote to Dr. Mair (an old friend, who had been

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PREFACE.

my medical adviser in Madras, and who returned home only two months later than myself), and proposed to write down what occurred to me in this direction, if he would revise and correct my remarks. He thereupon most generously and kindly offered, to take in hand that part of the book himself ; an offer which I of course gratefully accepted, and for which I here take the opportunity of recording my obligation.

The chapters by Dr. Mair on Individual Hygiene will be found most valuable ; not alone on account of their writer’s wide experience during an Indian practice of sixteen years, but also from the fact, that large numbers of Europeans in India live miles away from the nearest resident medical man ; and may any day find themselves placed in such a position, that a rudimentary knowledge of the treatment of the more common forms of disease, or of the action of a few simple remedies, would prove of invaluable service, in relieving suffering, averting dangerous illness, or in actually saving life. In some parts of India, one may travel over large tracts of country without ever being in the neighbourhood of another white man — much less of a medical man, and such isolation is the permanent experience of hundreds of our fellow countrymen in the East ; so that it must be evident, even should they escape casualty themselves, there will constantly be cases occurring, where persons dependent upon them are suddenly stricken down by fever, sunstroke, or cholera, in each of which immediate attention and remedies are called for.

How great, then, the advantage, of each intelligent person so situated being able to put his hand on medical instructions ! On the other hand, how often are maladies, not originally serious, made so by ignorant meddling with medicine by unguided amateurs, which a few plain and

PREFACE.

xi practical instructions taken down from the book-shelf would have obviated.

I myself lived for years more than fifteen miles from any medical man; who, if sent for suddenly, might, often chance to be visiting patients twenty miles distant in the opposite direction. Twenty-four or forty-eight houis would often, therefore, necessarily elapse before he could answer a summons ; and such may also, not improbably, be the case with many of those who read these pages. For their case, Dr. Mair’s chapters will prove invaluable, while his advice on Individual Hygiene will be of the utmost use, in teaching every one so to regulate his daily life as to produce the minimum of physical deterioration in a climate by nature (to a certain extent) inimical to the European constitution.

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CHAPTER I. Outfits

Advantage of having a complete one. — Dearness of Indian shops. — Description of outfit to be regulated by the future life. — Importance of woollen clothing. — Waterproof clothing necessary. — Sketch of outfit for mofussil life. — For town life. — Ladies’ outfits.— Instructions for packing. — Provision for the voyage. — Cabin furniture. — Seasickness. — Amusement on board ship . . i

CHAPTER II. Routes and Time for Departure

Former routes. — Euphrates, Cape, and overland routes. — Southampton, Marseilles, Brindisi routes. — Future route. — To Bombay, Madras, Calcutta. — Suez Canal. — Advantage of sea-voyage to those homeward bound. — Baggage insurance. — Time to go out. — Red Sea 18

CHAPTER III. First Impressions

Landing in India. — Indian house. — Naked natives. — Native clothing. — Features. — Complexion and distinguishing marks of different races and creeds. — Anglo-Indians. — Physical aspects of the country. — Antique usage and modern civilization. — Historical reminiscences. — Political prospects 35

CHAPTER IV. Climate and Seasons

Variety of climates in India. — Latitudinal divisions. — Two summers annually in the tropics. — Local circumstances affecting the climate. — Definition of summer. — Climate of Delhi, Calcutta, Bombay, Madras, Colombo. — The monsoons. — Land wind.— Temperature. — Hill sanitaria. — Rainfall. — Beware of the sun. — Danger of sunstroke 47

XIV

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER V. Incomes and Outlay

Avoidance of debt. — How to live on 300 rupees a month. — Houses and house-rent. — “ Chummeries.” — Furniture. — Conveyances. — Boarding. — Hotels . 69

CHAPTER VI. Housekeeping

Personal supervision necessary. — Rupees, annas, and pies. — Weights and measures. — Bazaar purchases. — “ Worries.” — “ Commission.” — Bazaar account. — Stores and storerooms. — Wine book. — Butcher’s meat. — Butter. — Poultry. — Fish. — Game. — English provisions. — Liquors. — Ice. — Fruit and vegetables . . 80

CHAPTER VII. Servants

Native and English servants compared. — Neatness and method. — Masters and servants. — Fertility of resource. — Christian servants. — Anxiety to please. — Responsibility for property. — Board and lodging. — Trustworthiness as carriers. — Inconsistency. — Swift messengers.— Emulation. — Avoidance of suspicion . . 104

CHAPTER VIII. Servants

“ Characters.” — Bad memories. — Servants in Madras, in Calcutta, in Bombay.— Comparative tables showing wages.— Butler.— Khansamah. — Matey. — Kitmutgar. — Dressing boy. — Bearers. Ayahs. — Durzee. — Durwan. — Chokkra. — Tannycatch. — Multiplicity of servants and causes. — “ Custom ” “9

CHAPTER IX. Children

Absence of Nurseries.— Consequences.— Necessity of sending them home.— Education.— Native associates. — Native conversation.— “ Chee-chee ” — Hygiene. — Early rising. — Chills. — Clothing. Food x36

CONTEXTS.

xv

CHAPTER X. Travelling

Long distances. — Railways in India. — First and second class travelling. — Refreshment arrangements. — Bullock coaches. — Bullocks.— Country carts. — Dak gharries. — Palkees. — Wild animals. Horseback.—Horse feeds. — Travellers’ bungalows.— Pepper pot.— Travelling supplies. — Marching ...... *44

CHAPTER XI. Horses and Dogs

Horses dear in India. — Arabs. — Capes. — Australians. — Persians.— Pegus. — Horses’ food. — Kooltee. — Bengal gram. — Paddy. — Grass hay. — Stables.— Farriers.— Dogs. — Going mad.— Require change of air, etc. . 163

CHAPTER XII. Social Customs

Calling. — Who to call on. — “ Griffs.”— Clubs. — Government House. — Governor’s breakfasts. — Levees. — Receptions. — “ At-homes.” — Dinner parties. — Borrowing system. — Rules of precedence. — Garden parties. — Ladies’ lunches. — Bandstand. — Social mourning. — Anglo-Indian hospitality fifty years ago and now. — Parvenus. — Advice to ladies 174

Conclusion

Insect annoyances. — Ants. — White ants. — Fleas. — Bugs. — Musquitoes. jungle leeches. — Scorpions. — Musk rats. — Dhobies. — Water filtering.— Postages. — Telegrams. — Learning the vernaculars. — Parting advice 20^?

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CONTENTS.

MEDICAL GUIDE.

Introductory Remarks. — Climate. — Individual Hygiene. — Food. — Alcoholic Beverages. — Exercise. — Sleep. — Bathing. — Fruit. — Water. — Smoking 217-253

Diseases : — Dyspepsia. — Diarrhoea. — Cholera. — Dysentery. — Fevers, —Intermittent Fever, Ague, or Jungle Fever.— Heat Apoplexy, or Sunstroke. — Diseases of the Liver. — Prickly Heat. — Boils. — Constipation.—Colic.— Convulsions. — Croup. — Intestinal Worms. — Accidents.— Bruises.— Sprains.— Bleeding, or Haemorrhage.— Burns and Scalds.— Snake Bites.— Fractures.— Dislocations.— Extraction of Foreign Bodies.— Drowning.— Poisoning.— Opium Poisoning. — Arsenic 253-3°9

List of Medicines.— Table of Doses.— Directions for Administering the Medicines 3°9~324

Supplement on Management of Children in India : Infant

from Birth.— Childhood.— Age for Sending Children to Europe.— Ailments of Children.— Vaccination .... 325-351

THE EUROPEAN IN INDIA.

Chapter I

Outfits. — Advantage of taking a complete outfit. — High prices of Indian shop goods— Outfit to be adapted to the future life— Importance of wearing wool. — Waterproof clothing necessary. — Sketch of outfit for mofussil life.— For town life. — Ladies’ outfits.— Instructions regarding packing. — The voyage. — Cabin accessories. — Seasickness.— Amusement on board ship.

It is impossible to lay down an exact specification of the clothing, etc., required by every intending sojourner in India. Much must depend on the means, tastes, and prospective calling of each person ; and I shall, therefore, merely confine myself to such suggestions, in connection with the subject, as appear capable of general application.

At first sight, it may appear superfluous for a person on the eve of departure for India to lay in an “ outfit ” at all. There are plenty of large cities there, each containing a European population, which for the most part supplies its wants on the spot ; and it might, therefore, be inferred, that those of the traveller could also be supplied from time to time after arrival, without all the trouble at present taken in preparation before leaving home.

This conclusion, however, would not, for many reasons, be a wise one. True, there are cases in which, owing to a necessarily hurried departure, persons find it impossible to make due provision beforehand ; and they, of course, have to make amends for the deficiency as best

THE EUROPEAN IN INDIA.

they can, by supplying their wants after reaching India , but it does not thence follow, that it is desirable to dispense with special outfits as a general rule.

It is said that Sir Charles Napier, on being suddenly ordered out to India to take a military command, under circumstances of great exigency, started next morning, with only a carpet-bag ; but it can hardly be supposed that the gallant general’s comfort was greatly increased by the fact of his having so slender a supply of conveniences.

If there be any disadvantage in having an ample outfit— provided, of course, it is a suitable one — it is the trouble of having a quantity of baggage to look after en route. But this difficulty — if one at all — is comparatively trifling, and of short duration. Indeed, it is a question, whether there is more trouble in looking after the transit of a dozen packages than of two — 01 even one, if that one is too large to be carried by the owner himself; and if every package is clearly and correctly addressed, with the owner's name, destination, conveyance, and route, there is little risk of miscarriage.

There are, on the other hand, many advantages. Of course, there are plenty of shops in places like Calcutta, Bombay, and Madras, where most of the articles in use by Europeans can be bought ; but it cannot be supposed, that such articles are there sold at anything like home prices. The Indian shopkeeper obtains his European goods, in many cases, from retail dealers at home ; at any rate he has to import them from Europe, paying exchange, freight, insurance, and a variety of other charges — and in addition, incurring risks from damage, etc., against which no insurance will provide ; as well as that of having even those goods which reach him in a sound condition left on his hands for an indefinite time.

In India, as elsewhere, the objects probably aimed at by the tradesman are— ready sales, fair profits, and quick

INDIAN SHOP PRICES.

returns. But, to make ready sales, there must be a large community of buyers, in proportion to the number of shops competing for custom. Where this is wanting, sales on a large scale are impossible ; while in proportion to their insignificance, a larger profit is required to afford the shopkeeper his support. It unfortunately happens that there are comparatively few customers in India ; and this is, therefore, another reason why shop prices there are invariably high. Then, Anglo-Indians object to high prices, which drives the shopkeeper into the expedient, too often, of supplying inferior goods at an apparently moderate price ; the result being, that Indian shop goods in general have come to be looked upon as necessarily inferior to similar articles obtained direct from England by private individuals at a much lower cost ; and many persons systematically supply themselves in consequence, year after year, with nearly everything they require, direct from home.

Again, the Indian shopkeeper’s great difficulty being paucity of customers, he is driven into giving long and often indiscriminate credit, which not unfrequently leads to bad debts, from which he derives some of his heaviest losses — and this also tends to necessitate high prices.

Altogether, it will thus be seen, the position of the Indian shopkeeper is a difficult one : to make a living in the face of limited sales, heavy expenses, and other drawbacks, requiring no ordinary ingenuity.

Another cause of constant and heavy loss which he has to encounter, is the liability of nearly every kind of goods to become damaged, owing to the nature of the climate. Some articles will hardly keep undeteriorated for the shortest period ; and consequently “ unsold ” soon becomes a synonym for “ unsaleable.” Silks are mildewed ; woollens perforated by a minute insect ; gloves spotted ; leather or wood-work gets eaten by white ants, or falls to pieces ; while cutlery becomes speedily injured by rust. What

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wonder, then, that from six to eight shillings are asked for a pair of gloves, seeing that whole cases full, a few weeks ago new and sound, have now to be thrown aside as worthless ?

While, however, admitting that high prices in Indian shops are unavoidable, it is obviously the interest of persons having a regard for economy, to render themselves as far as possible independent of the circumstance ; and this alone is a sufficiently strong argument in favour of a complete outfit.

But it is not the only one. The Anglo-Indian starting in life will probably be somewhat limited as to income at the outset ; and as he will, moreover, have many heavy expenses to meet shortly after his arrival in India, it is evident that the fewer articles of clothing he has to provide himself with, for a year or two, the better.

And not only would I advise the provision of a stock of clothing to last some time, but I would also recommend every reader going out to India, to make arrangements before leaving England, to have clothing, etc., sent out from home by friends or agents, as required, during the whole term of residence abroad. With this view, directions for self-measurement should be obtained. The saving in cost, to say nothing of the superior workmanship and material, which may be looked for as the result of adopting this plan, will amply repay any extra trouble which it may involve. English made clothes will always surpass in comfort, durability, and appearance, anything that can be got in India at the same cost.

Old Indians, on returning to England, generally find their garments more or less outre, and calculated to draw attention, however particular they may have been in choosing their tailors while abroad. Before leaving India myself, I ordered amongst other things, from a well-known European tailor, an overcoat ; and, being perhaps rather out of

INDIAN CLOTHES.

b date in the matter of “fashion,” was well enough satisfied with it. On arriving in London, however, it occuried to me that a little alteration was required, and I therefore took the coat to a tailor. The latter confidentially informed me, that the unfortunate garment was altogethei a seedy affair,”— taking the opportunity of politely observing that there was “ no sit whatever ” about any of my clothes. Probably this expression of opinion was not altogether unbiassed, but I was conscious of its containing sufficient truth to prevent my being altogether impervious to it.

The other day, I met a friend lately returned from India, who told me that when he reached home, he at once saw there was something different in his appearance from that of other people, and that he had to spend £40 at a tailor’s before he felt himself fit to appear in public, without attracting notice as “ a gentleman from foreign parts.”

In selecting an outfit, it is of course important to keep in view the probable conditions of the future life in India. For instance, a young man going out to join the Forest Department, or as a coffee planter, would require many things which would be useless to a civilian or mercantile clerk ; for the simple reason, that in the former case the life in prospect would be mostly out of doors, involving much exposure, in localities where society is sparse and ceremony scant ; game would often be met with, while there might be encounters to be provided for with animals more formidable.

The civilian’s or merchant’s occupation, on the other hand, would be principally within doors, in some large town ; more sedentary than active ; and except during the annual trip to the hills, or on an occasional day’s snipe-shooting, he might never walk through an acre of jungle, or see a head of game — except such as had previously made its appearance in the market stall.

In fact, the difference between the one life and the other

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would correspond to that between the life of the farmer or of the field geologist and of the city man, in England ; only that while in England, the city man must to a certain extent be provided against exposure, there is hardly the same necessity in the case of the Indian man of business, who need never go out of doors (except in the cool of the day, and in fine weather) but in a carriage.

Before proceeding further with regard to the selection of outfit, I wish to enforce the following point. Flannel should always be worn next the skin ; and this applies to Anglo-Indians of both sexes, and under all circumstances.

It is the best safeguard against fever, dysentery, and other disorders that carry off so many victims in the tropics. When the body is heated a profuse perspiration moistens the clothing ; evaporation follows, checking the perspiration and causing a chill, and hence illness in numberless cases.

An Indian doctor, whose name I do not know, but who must have been a sort of Abernethy in his way, once said, he “would not throw good medicine away upon any one who could be such a fool as not to wear flannel.”

Chills are the authors of most complaints in India, and should be more carefully guarded against than the heat itself. In their wake come fevers, diarrhoea, dysentery, and even cholera. That they should follow evaporation from damp clothing is not to be wondered at, seeing it is a common practice to cool beverages (in places where ice is not procurable) by the same process.*

Evaporation takes place more rapidly from cotton and linen than from wool ; and they are, therefore, to be eschewed as much as possible for under-clothing — especially linen. Neither does wool absorb moisture so readily as cotton. Take a piece of flannel, and stretch it over a

* Thus ; bottles or other vessels containing the liquid to be cooled, are wrapped round with damp cloths, and exposed to the sun and wind, when in a very short time the contents are found to be admirably cooled.

WOOLLEN CLOTHING.

class of water, just so close that the ends of the fibres touch the water ; then do the same with a piece o calico or linen ; and it will be found, that the woollen fibres have hardly sucked up more water than they were in contact with ; while the moisture will have peneti ated to the upper surface of the calico or linen. This explains the fact of chills more quickly arising from cotton and linen clothing. Perspiration penetrates at once to the external surface, and is acted on by the atmosphere , while with a woollen garment, it is retained within, or absorbed so gradually as to produce no bad effects.

Wool, again, is a non-conductor of heat. Put a woollen sock on a warm foot in winter, and the foot will keep warm much longer than if covered only with a cotton one. For the same reason, a woollen shirt will keep its wearer cooler, in an atmosphere above blood heat, than a linen one. This can be proved as follows : —

Place two beds beside each other in a room, in India, open to the hot land-winds. Cover one, in the cool of the morning, with sheets and a couple of woollen blankets , but, on the other, instead of blankets, put over the sheets the same weight and thickness of cotton counterpanes, etc. In the afternoon, when the heat of the day has reached its climax, test with a thermometer the temperatures of the two beds, under the clothes ; and it will be found that that upon which the blankets were laid is several degrees cooler than the other.

All this goes to prove, that an object covered with wool is less susceptible to changes of temperature than one clothed with cotton ; and in the degree that cotton is inferior in this respect to wool, linen is inferior to cotton. This might have been concluded, from the fact that wool is the natural clothing of animals, and would therefore, of course, possess the properties best calculated to protect them from atmospheric influences.

If the climate of the tropics is warmer than that of

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temperate latitudes, it is also more characterised by rapid and violent changes, which render comparatively warm or non-conducting clothing essential to health. In some parts of India, and at certain seasons, for example, the thermometer which stood at 5 a.m. at 550, will by 1 or 2 p.m., or perhaps earlier, have risen to 90°, and by 8 p.m. have again fallen to 6o°. It was this peculiarity in the climate Abyssinia which produced so much sickness among our troops in 1868 ; the variation of the thermometer during the twenty-four hours being often 40 degrees.

While making a morning call in the hot season, the Anglo-Indian in the course of a few minutes may experience a change nearly as great ; for, while in his carriage the heat may possibly be no°, the tattied, shaded drawing-room, with its gently-swinging punkahs and thermantidote, into which he is ushered, will have been cooled down to 8o° ; and as it is not possible to adopt a change of dress to suit every change of temperature, the object should be to adapt one’s clothing to serve as nearly as possible equally well, whether the temperature be 30 degrees higher or lower — an object which can be best attained by wearing light woollen garments.

A woollen coat has the merit, not often thought of, of protecting the back from the sun ; linen, silk, and cotton coats may “ look nice and cool,” but they afford no protection in this respect.

While, however, giving due regard to the necessity of adopting such clothing in India as will afford protection from the sun and heat, it is equally needful to be provided to a certain extent against influences of an opposite character. All who have to encounter an out-of-door life in the hills, are liable to be exposed to cold and wet; and every Anglo- Indian must be prepared for an occasional trip to the hills, and for the weather he must there sometimes experience.

I should, therefore, advise all, to provide themselves with waterproof clothing. A loose, light Mackintosh

PROTECTION FROM RAIN.

cloak, to come down as far as the knees, and leggings of the same material reaching to the thighs, will render the wearer impervious to rain. Black india-rubber waterproofing should be avoided, as not at all adapted to a hot climate. The heat causes the preparation on the cloth to melt ; and a cape of this material, if laid by for any length of time, will most probably be found, when taken out for use, stuck together in a solid mass as folded ; and when once opened out, after having been in this condition, it is rendered quite useless. The light-coloured Mackintosh is not affected in this manner.

One of the pests of the Indian forests and jungles is leeches, which fasten on the legs and ankles of the unwary pedestrian in moist situations. The bites are not painful, but are apt to fester, and a number of them involves a considerable loss of blood. Leech-gaiters, or stockings made of some cotton material, should, therefore, where these pests prevail, be worn over the ordinary socks, inside the boot but coming up over the trowsers to the knees, and there drawn tight and fastened. A dozen pairs of these gaiters may be included in the forester’s or planter’s outfit. They will also be found useful by sportsmen, when plunging through wet paddy fields in pursuit of snipe.

The following is somewhat the style of outfit I would recommend for a bachelor having before him a rough out-of-door life in the mofussil;* of course, it is capable of modification according to individual tastes.

Bedding. — A portable cork mattress ; bed curtains of strong, rather close, coloured, musquito-netting, to fit a single cot : dark-green is the best colour ; by having coloured netting the necessity for washing is obviated. Two or three good warm single blankets— one coloured, say red or blue ; and a railway rug or wrapper. A Mackintosh waterproof sheet is also a valuable article, and where there is any possibility of camp-life, it should be * Mofussil means, up-country, provincial.