Cocoa and chocolate : their chemistry and manufacture

Preface

JT lias been the object of the author _ in producing this work to provide a standard book of reference dealing*

A O

with cacao from its growth till manufactured into cocoa or chocolate.

For the first time the chemical composition of cacao has been traced from the fresh beans through the various stages of manufacture, so that the changes which occur during fermentation, drying, roasting, etc., may be followed.

The most recent methods of analysis have been discussed, and the author has only recommended those which he himself has found to give accurate and consistent results.

Throughout the book the word cacao has been used for the raw material, that is to say, for the beans or their parts from which nothing has been taken or which have had nothing added to them; for example, after roasting and husking the cacao beans, the cacao nibs are expressed and the fat is removed with the formation of cocoa powder. The word cacao is also used before “ butter,” signifying the fat extracted from the cacao bean, owing to the possibility of confusion with coconut fat (obtained from Cocos uucifem).

I am glad of this opportunity to thank those who have assisted me in this work, and especially Mr. G. H. Davis and Mr. W. P. Paddison. My thanks are also due to Messrs. Baker & Sons, Ltd., of Willesden, and Messrs. Bramigk & Co., for their permission to reproduce photographs of their most up-to-date machinery.

Ditton Hill,

Surrey.

R. W.

C 0 N T E N T S

Introduction . . /

PAET I

History, Botany and Agriculture of Cacao

CHAPTER

I. — History and Growth of the Cacao Industry

II. — Botany and Nomenclature ......

j

III. — The Agriculture of Cacao — a. Selection of Site, Soil,

Manure, and Seed ......

IV. — The Agriculture of Cacao — b. Planting, Diseases,

Pruning, and Picking ......

V. — Fermentation of the Beans ......

VI. — Preparation of the Beans for Market — -Washing, Drying, Finishing or Polishing — Resume of Chapters III to VI inclusive — Importance of Natural Conditions, and Processes of Fermentation and Curing in Determining Quantity and Quality of the Finished Cacao ....

VII. — Characteristics of the Principal Kinds of Commercial Cacao Beans .......

VIII.— Composition of Cacao Beans .....

PAKT II

Manufacture of Chocolates and Cocoa Powders

IX. — Cleaning and Sorting Cacao prior to Boasting .

X. — Boasting of Cacao — Analyses of Beans, Nibs and Shells before and after Boasting

XI. — Nibbing, Husking and Winnowing the BoastedCacao — Analyses of Nibs and Shells, and their Proportions in the Boasted Bean ......

XII. — Milling — Preparation of Cocoa Powder — Expression of Cacao Butter — “ Soluble ” Cocoa Powders

PAGES

ix-xi

3—13

14-19

20—27

28—35

36—43

44—50

51—61

62—68

71—75

76—85

86—95

96-108

VI

CHAPTER 1 AUI!‘B XIII. — Analyses of Cocoa Powders, “Soluble,” Dietetic

XIV. — Preparation of Chocolate— Mixing— Refining . . 121-132

XV.— Moulding Chocolate Tablets, Croquettes, Napolitains,

and Fancy Shapes— Tapping, Cooling . . . 133-143

XVI. — Analyses of Plain Chocolates, Eating, Covering, and

XVII. Recipes for Making Plain Chocolates — Eating, Covering, and Powders . ...... 152-162

XVIII.— Milk Chocolates and Chocolate Powders — Analyses

and Recipes — Nut Chocolates .... 163-176

XIX. — Aroma and Flavour due to Variety of Bean, Process of Manufacture, and Flavouring Materials such as Vanilla, Spices, Essences, etc 177-187

PART III Chemistry of Cacao

a. Survey of the Components of Cacao and Chocolate.

b. Methods of Analysis.

a. XX. — Survey of the Component Parts of Roasted Cacao

XXI. — Survey of the Component Parts of Roasted Cacao

XXII. — Cocoa Powders and Chocolates, and their Component

XXIII. — Microscopical Examination of Cacao and its Preparations ........ 243-250

b. XXIV. —Methods of Analysis — Fat — Determination of Physical

and Chemical Constants of Cacao Butter and its Substitutes ........ 251-274

XXV. — Methods of Analvsis — Moisture, Mineral Matter (Soluble, Insoluble, Alkalinity of), Cold-water Extract, Fibre (Crude Fibre, Cellulose, Pentosans),

Cacao Red, Xanthine Bases (Theobromine, Caffeine), Organic Acids (Acetic, Tartaric, Oxalic) . 275-293 XXVI. — Methods of Analysis — Reducing Matters, Total Nitrogen and Albuminoids, Starch, Cane Sugar and Milk Sugar, Cacao Matter .... 294-310

Appendix. — Provisional Definitions and Standards of Cacao and

its Preparations ....... 311-314

ILLUSTRATIONS

Frontispiece — Cacao Pocls.

TO FACE

PLATE PAGE

I. Theobroma cacao . . . . . . . .16

II. Cacao Trees shaded by “ Madre de Cacao,” Trinidad . . 29

III. Picking the Cacao Pods, Trinidad ..... 34

IV. Opening the Cacao Pods, Trinidad ..... 37

V. Sweating Box, Trinidad / ...... 41

VI. Artificially Drying Cacao, Trinidad ..... 45

VII. Cacao Beans Drying in the San, Trinidad .... 47

VIII. Claying Cacao, Trinidad ....... 49

IN. Dancing the Cacao, Trinidad ...... 50

X. Sorting Cacao Beans oil a Drying Floor, Trinidad . . 52

XI. Bagging Cacao for the Local Market, Trinidad . . .56

XII. Bagging Cacao for Shipment, Trinidad .... 60

FIGURE PAGE

1. Cacao Beau Sorting and Cleaning Machine ... 74

2. Cacao Bean Roaster for Open Fire ..... 82

3. Cacao Bean Roaster for G-as. Externally heated . . 84

4. Cacao Nibbing, Husking, and Winnowing Machine.

5. Cacao Nibbing, Husking, and Winnowing Machine.

Back View 93

6. Twin Cacao Mill > . . . . . . .97

7. Hydraulic Cacao Butter Press ...... 100

8. Chocolate “Melangeur ” ....... 124

9. Horizontal Refining Machine . . . . . .126

IO. Patent Five-Roll Upright Refiner, with Chilled Rolls and

Spring Bearings . . . . . . . .127

11. Heating Chamber for Chocolate, etc. ..... 131

12. Patent Air-forcing and Automatic Chocolate Weighing via

ILLUSTRATIONS

FIGURE PAGE

13. Noiseless Shaking’ Table . . . . . . .138

14. “ Conclie ” Machine for t lie Preparation of “ Chocolat

Fondant ” and Swiss Milk Chocolate . . . .174

15. “ Mitscherlich ” Bodies between the Lobes of the Kernel.

10. “ Mitscherlich ” Bodie’s enlarged, x 1000 diam. . . . 245

17. Cocoa Husk, showing Bundles of Spirals, x 1000 diam. . 247

19. Cocoa Adulterated with Arrowroot Starch, x 100 diam. . 249

Introduction

“ The persons who habitually take chocolate are those who enjoy the most equable and constant health and are least liable to a multitude of illnesses which spoil the enjoyment of life.” In such words does Brillat Savarin* describe the virtues of chocolate, and whether from the fact that cacao preparations do actually assist in maintaining good health, or for the reason that chocolate is the most pleasing confection to the palate, it is certain that the growth of the cacao industry in the last three centuries is little short of remarkable.

First as a beverage, then as a sweetmeat, chocolate has steadily worked its way into public favour, and it is safe to say that in no civilised country of the world is the “ Prince of Sweetmeats ” unknown, and that wherever civilised man has explored, travelled or sojourned, there may be found a wrapper, yellow, blue, red or white, that once contained a tablet of some well-known brand.

The popularity of chocolate is well deserved, for, besides being a sweetmeat, it possesses a food value of a high order.

Dr. Johnson has shown that cocoa essence contains as much flesh-forming bodies as the solids of dried milk, and Professor Forsterf has compared the heat-giving power of

X

INTRODUCTION cacao and its preparations with some of our most valuable foodstuffs. Thus :

1 kilo of lean beef .

•

•

gives

o

1,214

cal oi

i „

fat beef

•

.

• 55

3,057

1 litre of

cow’s milk

.

•

• 55

1 kilo of

hens’ eggs (av.

eggs)

• 55

1 ,678

1 „

husked earth nuts

.

• 5 5

1 „

peas .

•

•

• 55

2,710

1 „

white bread

.

.

• 55

2,528

1 „

cacao beans

.

.

5,110

1 „

.

•

• 55

5,967

1 „

cacao powder

.

•

• 5 5

4,167

1 „

chocolate .

.

• 55

4,763

These figures, which show the true food value of various of our nourishing foods, explain the remarkable sustainingpower of cacao preparations, a characteristic which is recognised at the present time by our explorers, athletes, soldiers, sailors and others engaged in work or pastimes which entail great physical endurance.

The ancient Mexicans also appreciated the stimulating and sustaining properties of chocolate, for Benzoni tells us that during the time of festivities “ they used to spend all the day and half the night in dancing with only cacao for nourishment.”

Apart from the valuable properties of chocolate as a food, there lies the all-important fact that it is pleasing to the palate. All classes, all ages, all sexes, at all times and in all places now eat chocolate because they like it and not because it is a stimulating and nourishing food, arid it is this class of consumer that appeals to the

INTRODUCTION xx manufacturer, and which enables him to produce a good, wholesome and palatable preparation within the reach of all.

Did time and space allow, there is much to be told on the romantic side of chocolate, of its divine origin, of the bloody Avars and braA^e exploits of the Spaniards avIio conquered Mexico and Avere the first to introduce cacao into Europe, tales almost too thrilling to be believed,* of the intrigues of the Court of Spain, and of celebrities avIio met and sipped their chocolate in the parlours of the coffee and chocolate houses so fashionable in the seventeenth and eighteenth centuries.

But there is little room for romance in a technical Avork of this sort, or in these prosaic days, when even the “ Odour of Sanctity ” has been reduced to a chemical formula. The “Food of the Gods” is iioav nothing but a scientific blending of certain chemical compounds, and chemists, instead of priests, are protecting the fair name of chocolate.

* Prescott’s ‘Conquest of Mexico/ and Og-ilby’s ‘Description of America/ etc.

Part I History, Botany, And Agriculture

OF CACAO

J

CHAPTER I

The commercial history of cocoa and chocolate commences with the introduction of the cacao bean into Europe in the year 1528, when Cortes, the conqueror of Mexico, returned to the court of Spain, bringing with him a large collection of minerals, animals, and plants to show the resources of the newly acquired country.*

Previous to this, however, the beans of the cacao tree were much used by the Aztecs, the Aborigines of Central America, who not only prepared from them the beverage known as “ chocolatl,” but also made use of them as a means of currency, described by Peter Martyr as “ blessed money, which exempts its possessors from avarice, since it cannot be long hoarded, nor hidden underground. ”f

The royal revenues of Mexico were raised by imposing a tax on all the agricultural produce and manufactures of the kingdom, and among the items of the tribute furnished by different cities Mendozza ([notes — 20 chests of chocolate, TO pieces of armour, a chest of maize, 8000 lumps of unrefined copal, 100 copper axes, 80 loads of red chocolate, 800 “ xicaras ” — vessels out of which they drank chocolate, 4000 loads of lime, 40 bags of cochineal, 20 bags of golddust, 200 loads of chocolate, 8000 “ liandsful ” of rich scarlet feathers, etc.

* Prescott, ‘ Conquest of .Mexico.’ f ‘ De Orbe Novo,’ dec. v, cap. 4.

Torquemada has extracted I lie particulars of the yearly

expenditure of tlie Mexican palace from the royal account

book, which included 2,744,000 fanegas of cacao, an amount

approximately equal to 100,000 tons, besides 8,000 turkeys,

a quantity of maize about equal to 200,000 tons, and an

incredible amount of game, vegetables, and condiments of

every kind.

The value of the cacao beans as coins depended upon their size, and may have been primarily looked upon as valuable from the mythical history of their origin.

The history of cacao as given in Mexican mythology is not without interest, for it would appear from one of the most sacred traditions of the Indians of Mexico that we are indebted to Divine providence for its introduction to earth. Quetzalcoatl, god of the air, was commissioned to convey to man the seeds of the “ quacahault ” or cacao tree, which was one of the few growing in Eden for the delectation and food of the gods and the first sons of the Sun.

In the golden days of Anahuac or Mexico, when the “garden prophet ” resided on earth, the land teemed with fruits and flowers without the pains of culture ; a single ear of Indian corn was as much as a man could carry, and the cotton, as it grew, was dyed to the hues required by man. The air was filled with intoxicating perfumes and the sweet melody of birds, and things were always as they ought to be.

Quetzalcoatl incurred the wrath of one of the principal gods and was compelled to abandon the country, but he was so much beloved by the people of Mexico, to whom he had taught the use of metals, agriculture and the arts of government, that his return was looked for with confidence and pleasure, and a temple and altar were erected to his worship. He was said to have been tall of stature, with a white skin, long dark hair and a flowing beard, and this description, corresponding in the main with that of Cortes at the head of the Spanish invasion, prepared largely for the easy acceptance of the Spaniards into the hearts of the people. The “garden prophet” was worshipped under the name of Votan, which signified “ an adder clothed with precious or divine feathers,” a highly complimentary title ; and besides the usual offering of burnt incense, his worshippers were wont to lacerate their tongues, as further proof of their devotion — a proceeding which, in these days, would hardly be considered complimentary, ns it might imply that they were not desirous of tasting the “ food of the Gods.”

The emperor Montezuma took no other beverage than chocolate, flavoured with vanilla or spices, and so prepared as to be reduced to “a froth of the consistency of hone}".”

Golden goblets, with spoons of the same metal, or of tortoiseshell finely wrought, were used by Montezuma for drinking his chocolate, and the cup, after being drained, was thrown into the lake surrounding the palace.

At the conquest of Mexico a vast quantity of treasure was taken from the lake, and judging from the number of goblets found, and the amount of chocolate prepared daily for the emperor’s consumption (“50 jars or pitchers”), it may be assumed that Montezuma was not altogether averse to the beverage.

The beans were roasted in earthenware vessels, ground between stones, and mixed with cold water, to which was sometimes added a dash of capsicum, probably as a flavouring material, though possibly as a means of increasing the devotion of the sore-tongued worshippers of Votan.

The richer people flavoured their chocolate with vanilla or spices, and sweetened it with sugar or honey. The liquid was whipped into a froth, and one early historian is careful to point out the importance “ of opening the month wide, in order to facilitate deglutition, that the foam may dissolve gradually and descend imperceptibly as it were, into tlie stomach,” and closes with a eulogy on the beverage so prepared.

The exact date of the introduction of cacao into Mexico from Eden is obviously rather difficult to determine, but De Candolle,* who has made a close study of the history of all plants of economic importance, states with some assertion that the tree lias been in cultivation in America for three or four thousand years.

The planting of the seed seems to have called for special ceremony among the original cultivators, the shedding of the blood of man, beast or fowl being apparently one of the necessary operations.

Bancroft, writing of the Mava races of the Pacific, savs: “ Before planting the seed, they hold a festival in honour of their gods, Ekchuah, Chac, and Hobnil, who were their patron deities. To solemnise it they all went to the plantation of one of their number, where they sacrificed a dog having a spot on his skin the colour of cacao. They burned incense to their idols, after which they gave to each of the officials a branch of the cacao plant.”

According to Ximinez, the blood of slain fowls was sprinkled over the land to be sown, a performance certainly more profitable to the soil than mere sacrifice.

History does not relate of the cacao tree being of any commercial importance, however, until the conquest of Mexico, when the Spaniards found the people of the country fully appreciative of its value.

For some years the Spaniards kept the secret of chocolate preparation in their own hands, so closely that we read that during the war between Holland and Spain, the Dutch sailors, on finding cacao beans in some Spanish ships which they had captured, threw them overboard with the scornful description, “ Groltes de brehis .”

The Spaniards did not long remain in undivided

* ‘Origin of Cultivated Plants ’

possession of tlieir secret, for in 1G0G we find that one Antonio Carletti, who had himself learnt to appreciate the fine qualities of the beverage in Spain, was instrumental in bringing them to the notice of the Italians.

From this time onwards the popularity of cacao preparations spread freely to all parts of Europe, though in 1624 Franciscus Rausch, in a book which had a wide circulation and was published in Vienna, stated that the consumption of chocolate was largely responsible for the committal of many excesses, especially in the case of monks, for whom he urged that its use should be forbidden.

This, however, was an isolated case of attack against the use of chocolate, and the latter part of the seventeenth century was particularly prolific with its crop of articles and treatises lauding chocolate as a pleasing and nourishing beverage.

O

The idea that chocolate inflamed the passions was prevalent for a long time, however, and even as recently as 1712 the ‘ Spectator ’ states, “ I shall also advise my fair readers to be in a particular manner careful how they meddle with romances, chocolate, novels and the like inflamers, which I look upon as very dangerous to be made use of during this great carnival ” (the month of May).

Chocolate made its first appearance in France in the reign of Louis XIII, probably through the agency of Carletti, who was teaching all Europe the process of roasting the beans, in spite of the fact that the Spaniards were still jealously attempting to guard the method of preparation.

In 1659, one Challon David obtained the monopoly in France for making and selling chocolate, a privilege which was renewed in 1 GGG for twenty-six years. His factory is said to have been near to the Croix du Tiroir at the corner of Rue de l’Arbre-Sec and the Rue Saint Honore.

Under Louis XIV the use of chocolate became very general in the country, and the advent of the first crop of cacao grown in the French colony of Martinique in 1679 marked the first step of organised cultivation.

In 1692 the monopoly of chocolate manufacture and selling, which had been previously in the hands of David, was transferred to Damame, who was entitled to hold it for six years.

One year later, however, in 1693, we find the privilege was extended to all confectioners and grocers, Louis XIV apparently seeing in the new industry a means of increasing his private revenue.

At this time there were only very small quantities of cacao in the hands of private individuals, as the high price of the beans, which were only obtained through Spain from Central America, was a serious hindrance to the general use of chocolate, and it is interesting to note, when we come later to discuss the world’s output of cacao at the present time, that the man Rodolplie de Canvillet, whose name should be handed down to posterity as declaring to the revenue officers the greatest amount of cacao in anv individual’s possession, was the owner of exactly 10 lb., and that the total amount of beans declared in France did not exceed 221b.

In about 1080 the Spaniards had carried cacao from Acapulco to the Philippine Islands, where we are told by Blanco (‘FI. de Filipinas,’ edit. 2, p. 420) it thrived exceedingly, though no record of the arrival of the first Philippine crop is recorded.

The use of chocolate seems to have been known both in England and Germany in the middle of the seventeenth century, when coffee and chocolate houses were in high vogue in both countries. “ White’s,” of the Haymarket, celebrated for its chocolate and fashionable customers alike at the commencement of the eighteenth century, Avas typical of the many which existed at this time.

Our earliest botanical historians show some divergence of opinion as to the native land of Cacao. Humboldt * states that the cacao tree “ grows wild in the forests of the Amazon and Orinoco basins ” ; Scliach f says that it is also to be found in the wild state in Trinidad; and De Candolle, the greatest authority, doubts whether the cacao plant is indigenous to Guiana, and continues, “ Many early writers indicate that it was both wild and cultivated at the time of the discovery of America, from Panama to Campeachy; but from the numerous quotations collected by Sloan e J it is to be feared that its wild character was not sufficiently verified.”

Cacao was said to have been cultivated in Jamaica in the early part of the seventeenth century, but according to Long in his 4 History of Jamaica,’ the plantations were destroyed by a “blast.”

It must have been about the same time that disaster overtook the plantations of Trinidad, for Sir A. de Verteuil mentions in his work on Trinidad that, “In the year 1727 a terrible epidemic spread in the cacao plantation,” a catastrophe which resulted in complete ruin.

Some thirty years later the cacao industry was revived in the islands by the Capuchin Fathers, who introduced the hardier but inferior Forastero cacao, which Sir A. de Verteuil tells us is the variety at present cultivated on the island of Trinidad.

Previous to the importation of the Martinique crop into France in 1G79, there is little doubt that all the cacao consumed was obtained from Central America, as there is no real evidence to show that the cacao tree was known to be growing wild or in cultivation elsewhere.

O O

The results of such a limited area of supply very

* Humboldt, voy. ii, 511.

t Grisebach in ‘Flora of Brit. West Indies,’ 91.

X Sloane, * Jamaica/ ii, 15.

naturally caused earlier cacao preparations to assume a liigli price, and was for a long time a serious hindrance to their general use among all classes. The improvements of means of transport and the enterprise of planters and manufacturers have now enabled chocolate in all forms to be placed within the reach of even the very poor, a condition of affairs which has greatly popularised chocolate confections, evidenced by the ever-increasing demand.

The first record of the manufacture of chocolate on the large scale is about 1756, when it is said Prince Wilhelm von der Lippe erected a factory at Steinhude, and brought over Portuguese especially experienced in the art of chocolate preparation.

France claims to have been the first to erect a factory with mechanical devices for the preparation of chocolate, the honour being due to M. Carbone, who seems to have been inspired by the possibilities of driving the machinery by water power in the same way as his oil mill, which he conducted in conjunction with his chocolate factory.

In those days the world’s output of cacao was extremely small, and it is interesting to note that in 1909 it was estimated that a total of 391 million pounds of cacao was put upon the market, and that many hundreds of factories were busily at work in all countries, presenting cocoas and plain and fancy chocolates to an ever-ready public.

The increasing supply of, and demand for, cocoa and chocolate is clearly exemplified in the growing imports of the raw materials.

England, France, Germany, United States, Holland, Switzerland and Russia, all show largely increasing imports of cacao beans, the figures for home consumption in each country showing a similarly large increase.

II. .Jumelle* estimated the consumption of cacao in

* Jumelle, ‘ Le Cacaoyer,’ 1900.

Europe in 1900 as close upon 65 million kilos. Of this quantity* —

Germany consumed 20 million kilos.

England ,, 12 ,,

Russia ,, 1 ,, „

This estimation of cacao consumption in England, approximately equal to 26^- million pounds, seems too low when the 1900 official return of raw and manufactured cacao consumption for the United Kingdom is compared with it.

The following table shows the official return of the consumption of coffee and cacao for the United Kingdom for the ten years 1899-1908 :

Table I.

Coffee (cwts.)

Cacao (lbs.)

(Raw and manufactured).

259,949

39,372,972

260,425

44,569,740

283,606

49,882,354

255,567

53,688,597

268,820

51,042,005

257,540

55,286,457

257,612

54,872,920

255,679

52,617,249

1 907

261,096

55,023,420

260,675

56,566,515

From tli

ese figures it will be

seen that while the con-

sumption of the coffee lias remained practically stationary

over these y

ears, cacao shows a very steady and pronounced

increase.

* The United States, which is not included in Jumelle’s estimate, was at the

head of all cacoa consuming countries for the

year ending June 30th, 1903, a total

of 130 million pounds of cacao, raw and manufactured, being recorded for that country.

COCOA ANO CHOCOLATE

This increase in favour of cacao over coffee is noticeable in the imports of other countries, notably of Germany, for according' to statements published by the Association of German Chocolate Makers* the consumption of coffee increased in that country 24 per cent, between 1880 and 1898, while cacao increased 380 per cent, over the same period.

The imports of coffee and cacao for the two extreme years were as follows :

Coffee. Cacao.

(approx. 2-J million cwts.) . (approx. 8 million lbs.) 1898 . 1,532,704 quintals . . 154,649 quintals

(approx. 3 million cwts.) . (approx 34 million lbs.)

Altho ill’ll a very large quantity of cacao goes direct from the planter to the factory, a considerable amount finds its way into different American and European markets.

The most important of the latter with the varieties dealt with are here appended :

London. — Guayaquil, Trinidad, Grenada, Carupano, Surinam, Caracas, and Bahia.

Hamburg. — Guayaquil, Caracas, Carupano, Puerto Cabello, St. Domingo, San Thome, and Cameroon.

Havre. — Maragnan, Haiti, Caracas, Guadeloupe, Martinique, Trinidad, and Ecuador.

Liverpool. — Guayaquil, Bahia, and St. Domingo.

Bordeaux. — Guayaquil, Caracas, and Carupano.

Marseilles. — Brazil, Martinique, Guadeloupe, and Venezuela.

Lisbon. — San Thome.

Santander. — Guayaquil, Caracas, and St. Domingo.

Amsterdam. — Surinam and Java.

* ‘ Verb, and. Dentscli. Schokoladefab.,’ xix, No. 7. t 1 quintal = 1‘9681 cwt.

Antwerp. — St. Domingo and Bahia.

Holland, which is a very large consumer of cacao, obtains it chiefly from Antilles, Brazil, Columbia, Ecuador, Venezuela, and the Dutch East Indies, and from the markets of Belgium, France, Great Britain, Hamburg, Portugal, and Prussia.

Of the total quantity imported into Holland, only a relatively small amount is again publicly sold, the figures for the years 1900 to 1904 inclusive being:

Caracas and Puerto Cabell o . . . 210 242 — — 197

Haiti, San Thome, Trinidad, Ceylon, etc. — — — — 925

The trade done in cacao and its preparation by

Holland for the years 1902 and 1903 is strikingly shown

by the following figures :

Import of cacao ....

,, ,, chocolate (without sugar)

97,349 „

48,227 „

„ „ „ (with sugar)

61,186 „

94,660 „

Export of cacao ....

5,943,970 „

6,011,192 „

., ,, chocolate (without sugar)

3,873,329 „

4,962,340 „

„ „ „ (with sugar) .

651,802 „

572,354 „

Chapter II Botany And Nomenclature

Linnaius, in his classical work of 1720, gave to the cacao tree the dignified name of “ Theobroma cacao,” signifying cacao as “ Food of the Gods.”* In so doing he was either actuated by a desire to give to the origin of his favourite beverage an honourable and distinguished title, or else he was influenced by a treatise published in 1684 by Bucliat, a French doctor, who described chocolate as an invention more worthy of being called food of the gods than nectar and ambrosia.

It is probable, also, that the Mexican word for chocolate, “ chocolatl ” (supposed to be derived from “ choco,” “cacava,” or “ cacana,” = the fruit of the tree “ quacahault,” and “latl” = water), supplied him with the species designation.

Theobroma cacao is the one of the several species native to the tropical regions extending from Mexico to Brazil, which supplies the greater quantity of cacao beans for cocoa- and chocolate-making purposes, and which is chiefly cultivated for its good quality and yield.

Among the most important species of the genus Theobroma are T. bicolor, pentagona, sylcestris, ovat-i folia, and ciu g ust i folia, all said to be quite distinct from Theobroma cacao.

Theobroma bicolor, or “ tiger cacao,” has been used in

BOTANY AND NOMENCLATURE

Nicaragua for confectionary purposes, but apparently pure eating chocolate lias not been made from the beans.

The pods are hard and woody, and show ten ribs, of which every alternate one is considerably more pronounced than its neighbours. The beans obtained from this variety are medium in size and when cut are quite white in colour.

J. Jones,* Curator of the Botanic Gardens, Dominica, submitted bulk samples of the beans to Messrs. J. S. Fry & Sons, Ltd., Rowntree & Co., and Cadbury Bros., to be made into chocolate, and from the reports returned by these manufacturers it would appear that this variety is entirely unsuited for chocolate making and of practically no commercial value.