Cold meat and how to disguise it

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And How To

IISGUISE IT

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COLD MEAT

AND

HOW TO DISGUISE IT

By

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Author of “Sweetmeat Making at Home,” etc.

London

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Henrietta Street I9°4

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Call

No.

Chapter I How To Utilise A Cold Joint

PAGE

First Principles — General Hints— The Use of Scraps — Croquettes and Rissoles — Toasts— Scallops of Cold Meat — Re-serving Mixed Meats — Flavouring and Seasoning — Garnishing — Various Adjuncts — Store Sauces, Pickles, and Chutnee — Freshly-made Sauces — Crofttons and Crohstades — Bread Crumbs — Vermicelli — Egg-wash — Sippets — Panada — Patty-cases , . 13

Chapter II Home-made Store Sauces And Pickles

x. Apple Chutnee — 2. English Chutnee (Tomato) — 3. Indian Chutnee —

4. Mushroom Ketchup— 5. Tomato Ketchup— 6. Walnut Ketchup — 7. Baroda Pickle— 8. Gunner’s Delight — 9. Lemon Pickle — 10. Piccalilli (Vegetable Marrow), &c. — 11. Red Cabbage Pickle — 12. Yellow Pickle (White Cabbage, &c.) — 13. Tomato Sauce — 14. Worcestershire Sauce . 21

Chapter III Quickly-made Sauces, Hot And Cold

1. About Sauce— 2. Aspic Cream— 3. Brown Sauce— 4. Brown Chaudfroid —5. Curry— 6. Hollandaise— 7. Horse-radish— 8. Indienne— 9. Maltre d’Hotel— 10. Mayonnaise Aspic Cream — 11. Mint — 12, Mushroom — 13. Mustard — 14. Onion — 15. Oyster— 16. Piquante— 17. Plain Bechamel Sauce (white)— 18. Plain Melted Butter— 19. Portugaise— 20. Robert Bourgeoise— 21. Stock for Sauces (quickly made)— 22. Tartare — 23. Tomato— 24. Tomato Aspic — 25. White Chaudfroid

Chapter IV Useful Adjuncts

1. Aspic Jelly — 2. To cook Bottled or Tinned Peas — 3. Cabbage Mould — 4. Carrots (mashed)— 5. Frying Batter (quickly prepared) — 6. Glaze — 7 Green Peas with Butter (French style)— 8. Macaroni k la Neapolitaine 9. Mushrooms (devilled) — 10. Panada or Binding Mixture for Croquettes ix. Potato Balls — 12. Potato Balls with Anchovy Butter — 13,

ix

Contents

Potato Casserole — 14. Potatoes (mashed) — 15. Potato Mould —

16. Puffed Potatoes — 17. Potatoes, Slices and Ribbons (fried) — 18.

Pur£e of Artichokes — 19. Risotto (Border for Meat) — 20. Risotto with Green Peas — 21. Rice for Curry, &c. — 22. Tomatoes (baked) . . 35

Chapter V Salads And Salad Dressings

1. Beef Vinaigrette — 2. Beetroot — 3. Carrot, Cream Dressing — 4. Cauliflower— 5. Chicken and Egg — 6. Chicken Mayonnaise — 7. Cold Meat with Tomato— 8. Cold Meat with Roman — 9. Cucumber — 10. Duck Mayonnaise — 11. English Dressing — 12. Vinaigrette Dressing — 13. French Dressing — 14. Game Mayonnaise — 15. Lentil — 16. Lettuce —

17. Mayonnaise Sauce — 18. Ox Cheek with Hungarian Salad — 19. Ox Cheek with Remoulade Sauce— 20. Picnic Salad Rolls — 21. Potato (Red)

— 22. Russian — 23. Salad Dressing without Oil — 24. Savoury Calf s Head — 25. Spanish (Potato) — 26. Tomato — 27. Veal and Bacon — 28. Vegetable (mixed)— 29. French & la Vinaigrette ..... 42

Chapter VI Hors D’ceuvres

1. Anchovies — 2. Anchovy Bonnes-Bouches — 3. Anchovy Canapes — 4. Anchovy Salad — 5. Beetroot a la Turque — 6. Bonnes-Bouches of Prawns — 7. Croutes for Hors d'ffiuvres— 8. Foie-gras in Aspic— 9. Hamburg Beef— 10. Marinated or Pickled Fish — 11. Olives — 12. Orange Salad — 13. Spanish Olives a la Tartare— 14. Tomatoes in Aspic ... 51

Chapter VII Joints Of Cold Meat Served Cold

1. Boiled Beef— 2. To serve Cold Boiled Beef— 3. Pressed Brisket of Beef —

4. Ribs of Beef— 5. Ribs of Beef (garnished) — 6. Roast Fillet of Beef —

7. Savoury Beef with Horse-radish Sauce — 8. Cold Sirloin of Beef — 9.

Cold Boiled Calf’s Head— 10. Slices of Cold Meat with Tartar Sauce —

11. Leg of Mutton — 12. Leg of Mutton with Cold Tomato Sauce— 13. Mutton with Potato Salad — 14. Shoulder of Mutton . . . • 55

Chapter VIII Poultry And Game

1. Chicken (minced) and Baked Eggs — 2. Chicken Capilotade — 3. Chaudfroid of Chicken — 4. Croustades of Fowl— 5. Curried Chicken (brown) —6. Curried Chicken (white) — 7. Chicken Cutlets — 8. Cutlets of Chicken k l’ltalienne— 9. Fricassee of Chicken (1)— 10. Fricassee of Chicken (2) — 11. Chicken (fried) — 12. Chicken Livers (devilled) — 13. Chicken and Macaroni — 14. Chicken Mar^chale — 15. Chicken Mould (cold) — 16. Chicken and Mushroom Cutlets — 17. Chicken Paprika k la Viennoise— 18. ^Paprika a la Portugaise— 19. Chicken Patties— 20,

X

Contents

PAGE

Potted Chicken— 21. Chicken Rdchauffe— 22. Chicken or Veal (minced) and Sausages — 23. Savoury Chicken — 24. Salmi of Duck — -25. Game or Poultry k l’Indienne — 26. Kromeskies of Game or Chicken 27. Savoury Risotto & la Milanaise— 28. Game (minced) with Kidneys —

29. Game Patties — 30. Hashed Goose — 31. Goose Legs (devilled)— 32. Croustades of Partridge or Pheasant— 33. Scallops of Partridge or Pheasant— 34. Rice Croquettes of Chicken or Game— 35. Rabbit (tinned) Patties — 36. Turkey & la Bretonne — 37. Blanquette of Turkey— 38. Boudins of Turkey — 39. Hashed Turkey (brown) — 40. Hashed Turkey (white) — 41. Turkey Legs (devilled) — 42. Turkey & la Milanaise — 43. Turkey Souffle — 44. Venison Croquettes — 45. Venison Rissoles — 46. Venison or Game (hashed) 59

Chapter IX Beef Recipes

1. Broiled Beef— 2. Broiled Beef and Oysters — 3. Corned Beef Pie — 4. Beef Cutlets — 5. Beef Darioles — 6. Fillets of Beef k la Maitre d’ Hotel —

7. Fricassee of Beef — 8. Grilled Beef or Mutton & l’lndienne — 9. Beef Hash — 10. Beef Hash (French Bourgeoise style) — 11. Minced Beef —

12. Miroton of Beef (1) — 13. Miroton of Beef (2) — 14. Miroton of Beef k la Guerrier — 15. Beef Olives (1) — 16. Beef Olives (2) — 17. Beef Patties — 18. Ragout of Beef — 19. Ragout of Corned Beef — 20. Rolled Beef in Jelly — 21. Roulade of Beef a la Neapolitaine — 22. Rechauffe of Salt Beef— 23. Sirloin of Beef, to rewarm — 24. Slices of Beef, to rewarm — 25. Bubble and Squeak — 26. Curry Puff — 27. Jelly for Mould of Rolled Beef — 28. Macaroni Timbales of Ox Tongue — 29. Russian Brawn — 30. Savoury Rolls — 31. Tongue in Aspic — 32. Tongue Toast 75

Chapter X Mutton Recipes

1. Baked Mutton Pudding — 2. Mutton Brawn — 3. Broiled Mutton and Tomatoes — 4. Broiled Mutton and Fried Cabbage — 5. Casserole with Cream Hash — 6. Brown Chaudfroid of Mutton — 7. Chaudfroid Mutton Cutlets — 8. Mutton Collops and Tomato Sauce — 9. Curried Mutton (1) — 10. Curried Mutton or Lamb (2) — n. Mutton Cutlets k la Pompadour— 12. Spanish Mutton Cutlets — 13. Dry Curry of Mutton —

14. French Mince Mutton — 15. Mutton Fritters a l’Anglaise— 16. Mutton Fritters 4 la Diable — 17. Mutton Fritters au Gratin — 18. Mutton Fritters ft la Palestine — 19. Mutton (grilled)— 20. Hash Pie — 21. Hashed Mutton — 22. Hashed Mutton a la Franpaise— 23. Hashed Mutton with Walnut Pickle — 24. Mutton Hashed k l’lndienne— 25. Mutton Hashed like Venison — 26. Mutton k l’lndienne — 27. Indian Stewed Mutton — 28. Curried Kidneys — 29. Stewed Knuckle of Mutton — 30. Mutton with Macaroni Border — 31. Minced Mutton and Mjacaroni Pie —

32. Mutton Mould— 33. Mutton Olives — 34. Piquante Mutton Collops with Potato Balls — 35. Ragofit of Mutton — 36. Ragofit of Mutton k la Provenfal — 37. Roulades of Mutton — 38. Mutton Rechauffe (American)— 39. Saddle or Leg of Mutton, to rewarm— 40. Slices of Mutton, to rewarm — 41. Mutton Surprises — 42. Timbales of Mutton —

43. Muttonettes 85

xi

Contents

Chapter XI Veal Recipes

PAGE

i. Calf s Feet — 2. Calf’s Feet Fritters in Sauce — 3. Hashed Calfs Head —

4. Calfs Head Pie — 5. Calfs Head k la Poulette — 6. Rechauffe of Sweetbreads — 7. Sweetbreads (tinned) in Brown Sauce — 8. Casserole of Minced Veal — 9. Veal Cannelon 4 la Royale — 10. Chaudfroid of Veal — 11. Cold Curry of Veal, &c. — 12. Fillet of Veal stewed with Peas —

13. Fricandelle of Veal — 14. Veal Fritters — 15. Veal Picnic Pie — 16.

Slices of Veal, to rewarm— 17. Veal au Gratin k l’ltalienne — 18. Mould of Veal and Ham — 19. Veal and Ham Cake — 20. Veal and Ham (minced) with Savoury Custard — 21. Minced Veal — 22. Minced Veal with Tomatoes — 23. Noisettes de Galantine k la Portugaise — 24. Savoury Veal Cutlets en Papillottes — 25. Timbale of Veal— 26. Wadham College Patties 99

Chapter XII Recipes For Ham And Pork

1. Cold Ham — 2. Minced Ham — 3. Ham Omelet— 4. Potted Ham— 5. Ham Toasts (1) — 6. Ham Toasts (2) — 7. Ham and Whisked Eggs — 8. Khuskies — 9. Pork Cheese — 10. Pork Cutlets with Tomato Sauce — n.

Pork Grilled a la Ghoorka — 12. Pork Sausages au Gratin — 13. To rewarm Slices of Pork — 14. Pork Curry — 15. Pork Curry en Mascarade — 16. Rice Timbales (Savoy style) — 17. Scotch Eggs .... 108

Chapter XIII Miscellaneous Recipes

1. Rice Casserole — 2. Cold Curry — 3. Cornish Pasties — 4. Cornish Cutlets — 5. Croquettes and Rissoles with Vermicelli — 6. Croquettes and Rissoles au Villeroi — 7. Crotistades a la Parisienne — 8. Curried Mince — 9. Curry G&teau — 10. Dresden Cassolettes — 11. Gateau of Meat — 12. Honeycomb Timbale — 13. Irish Potato Pie — 14. To rewarm a Joint of Meat — 15. Macaroni Timbale — 16. Meat Shape — 17. Minced Meat — 18. Potato Pie — 19. Rice Cutlets— 20. Russian Kromeskies — 21. Savoury Meat and Macaroni — 22. Tomato Pilaff 114

XU

COLD MEAT

CHAPTER I How to Utilise a Cold Joint

First Principles.

General Hints.

The Use of Scraps.

Croquettes and Rissoles.

Toasts.

Scallops of Cold Meat.

Re-serving Mixed Meats.

Flavouring and Seasoning.

Garnishing.

Various Adjuncts.

Store Sauces, Pickles, and Chutnee.

Freshly- made Sauces.

Crodtons and Crodstades.

Bread Crumbs.

Vermicelli.

Egg-wash.

Sippets.

Panada.

Patty-cases.

First Principles.

Having considered its future use, cut the meat carefully and neatly from the bones. For some dishes thick slices are required, thin for stews, dice for curry, and the smallest scraps can be minced for scallops, rissoles, potted meats, and other made-dishes.

The style of cooking must depend on the kind and quantity of meat to be used.

All firm, white fat, that is not otherwise required, may be finely chopped, and used as suet in plain puddings, forcemeats, and rissoles. The coarser parts of fat and dripping should be cut small, nearly covered with cold water, and boiled till the fat is extracted from the skin which surrounds each globule ; the clear liquid must then be pressed out, and strained into a vessel, and kept for frying purposes. This is called clarified or frying fat.

The bones, skin, gristle, and coarse trimmings of the meat should be chopped and cut small, covered with cold water, flavoured with onion, carrot, celery, &c., with spice and salt, and gently simmered for some hours ; game and chicken bones require less time than the heavier bones of beef and mutton. If

General Hints

well skimmed when the liquor first boils up, and strained when completed, a valuable stock or foundation will thus be made, which will prove useful in recooking meat at little trouble or cost.

General Hints.

A person of average intelligence can easily learn how to make a great variety of dishes from the remains of cooked joints, provided she understands the arts of broiling, frying, and making simple savoury sauces, and, above all, is careful never to allow previously cooked meat to reach the heat of boiling water (21 2° F.), for this will immediately render it hard, unpalatable, and indigestible.

If prepared with care and well seasoned, recooked meat can be made almost equal to fresh ; so that instead of considering it an economy to serve joints cold day after day, the thrifty housewife can see that a portion of the cold meat is recooked in a savoury sauce or thickened gravy. This will be advantageous, as more vegetables and bread, or other farinaceous food, will be eaten with less of the meat, which is generally the costly part of a dinner.

A border of boiled rice, macaroni, mashed potatoes, fried croutons, toasted sippets, &c., is an improvement to many made-dishes ; and attention should always be given to neat serving and garnishing, without which no dish should ever be sent to table.

The Use of Scraps.

Though large joints which cannot be consumed in less than several meals are not desirable, it is almost necessary that more food should be provided for a meal than is likely to be absolutely required, otherwise there may not be sufficient if chance guests arrive, which would be embarrassing. These remnants from dishes of variously cooked meats may be turned into very nice additions to the breakfast or high tea table, or for simple entrees.

The addition of remnants of ham, tongue, or boiled bacon will be found an immense help in making nice little dishes from scraps of cooked food, and by blending them with thickened sauce or panada we can produce something dainty and tasty which is worth concocting, and altogether different from the illserved meals of those who will not take the trouble to turn everything to the best advantage.

Croquettes and Rissoles

The remains of cold chicken, veal, or pork can be almost equally well used, the one for the other, or mixed, if finely minced and flavoured with cold ham, tongue, herbs, and seasoning. Remember that a few grains of pounded mace or grated nutmeg give a resemblance of chicken flavour to all white meats and sauces. Such minced meats, when blended with panada, bread crumbs, or mashed potato, are easily made into rissoles, meat balls, timbales, scallops, &c., or, when enriched with thick sauce, may be served in patties or on toasts.

Croquettes and Rissoles.

Having prepared the mixture, slightly flour the hands, divide into equal portions, and roll it lightly into balls, then form into cones, rolls, cutlets, or any shape desired, being careful not to let the flour get pressed into them beyond the outside, or they will crack in frying. According to the shape, the same style of mixture is called by various names, such as cutlets, cannelons, cakes, &c., and by a little practice a dishful of uniform shape and size can soon be made ; this is necessary to secure them a good appearance when served up.

Having moulded all, wipe off all flour from hands, board, and knife, break the eggs on a plate, adding a tablespoonful of cold water to each egg, and beating them only enough to mix yolks and whites evenly. For economy, the whites only, mixed with two tablespoonfuls of cold water to each, may be used, but the colour and general appearance of this is not so good.

The croquette should now be lifted with a broad-bladed knife on to the plate, and when the egg-wash has been brushed gently over it, moved off the plate with the knife to a pile of fine bread crumbs laid on a piece of kitchen paper. Take the corners of this and shake the crumbs over, see that every part is coated with egg and crumbs, then lift the croquette off the paper, replace it on the board, pressing the crumbs on with the knife, and forming it into neat shape.

If possible, let the articles thus covered with egg and crumbs remain for half-an-hour to harden, then have ready a pan of deep, hot frying-fat, and fry to a golden brown, drain on paper, dish, and garnish.

Toasts.

Toasts of various kinds are suitable for additions to breakfasts and high teas or simple suppers. For these the bread is either

Scallops of Cold Meat

toasted and buttered on both sides, or soaked in a mixture of milk, stock, and eggs, and then fried in butter or clarified fat. Any moist savoury mince is served on toasts thus prepared.

Scallops of Cold Meat.

The name “ scallop ” is used to describe the serving of a dainty savoury mixture in scallop-shells, or in earthenware or metal dishes made in the same form ; failing these, the mixture may be placed in a shallow pie dish or open tart dishes, but in such it would be more correct to call it au gratin.

The dishes, whether real shells or imitations, should be nicely prepared. Real shells should be chosen only from those which are well curved, and which will hold sufficient for one person ; they should be absolutely clean and dry; if of metal, brightly polished ; if of earthenware, no burnt particles must mar their appearance — these must be banished by rubbing with salt or Monkey Brand soap. The inside of them must be buttered to prevent the mixture burning on them during the heating in the oven, but the edges must be free from grease, which is unsightly.

The filling mixture requires careful preparation, as follows : —

Having cut the meat in dice or chopped it finely, if there be no cold sauce at hand which will be suitable, make some thick white or brown sauce, take it off the fire, stir the meat into it, flavour to taste, and bearing in mind that according to the meat, chicken, or game, so must the condiments agree, and that as this mixture will be eaten with bread crumbs or rice, &c., it should be more highly seasoned than if to be eaten alone.

The buttered shells should next be sprinkled thickly with bread crumbs or boiled rice fried in butter till golden brown, or if wished white, only till it has absorbed the butter, to prevent it becoming hard and shrunk in the oven. A good spoonful of the mixture should then be placed in each shell and covered with bread crumbs and tiny shreds of butter, or with rice. Tomatoes skinned and sliced, the seeds being removed, may also be used ; these should be sprinkled with seasoned brown bread crumbs, so that the juice may be absorbed and prevented from making the mixture sodden. Having wiped the crumbs off the edges, the shells must be placed in a Dutch oven, or quick ordinary oven, till the contents are thoroughly warmed through, and then arranged on a folded serviette, with a few sprigs of parsley laid between them as a garnish. Serve hot.

Flavouring and Seasoning

Re-serving* Mixed Meats.

In re-serving cold meat an intelligent cook will alter its appearance by a complete change, and by cutting slices into “cutlet shapes” and “fingers” will not betray that it is from a cooked joint.

The mixture of remains of game and poultry with flavourless meats such as mutton and veal is an advantage, and the bones and trimmings may be added to the stock-pot, thereby giving it a very superior flavour.

A few coarsely-chopped oysters (tinned will answer the purpose) are a great improvement to beef when served as patties, scallops, &c. ; the liquor should be used in the moistening mixture (panada).

Cold rashers of bacon can be chopped and used with bread crumbs and seasoning as a stuffing for tomatoes or mushrooms, or in the place of ham in rissoles.

Flavouring* and Seasoning*.

The principal flavouring herbs are parsley, chives, chervil, tarragon, thyme, marjoram, and lamb-mint. These are all nicest when fresh, and should be cultivated in the garden of every house in which good cooking is expected. Onions, shallots, and the leaves (green or dried) of the sweet bay tree, freshly ground pepper, fine salt, freshly grated nutmeg, pounded mace, grated lemon peel, and strained lemon-juice are indispensable adjuncts as flavourings.

There are many others which are in daily use amongst those who study the art of good cooking, and a cultivated taste will appreciate their value. Garlic is looked upon with horror by many English people, but if a pan or salad bowl is rubbed with a cut bulb, or the juice dropped on a piece of bread and placed in the salad, the flavour of “rank garlic” will not be detected, but the juice will accentuate and pleasantly mingle other seasonings.