Thrilling adventures, travels, and explorations of Dr. Elijah White among the Rocky Mountains and in the far west.

Front matter

TO PERPETUATE THE HISTORY AND DEVELOPMENT OF THE PEOPLE REPRESENTED BY THE ABOVE CHIEFS AND WISE MEN THIS COLLECTION HAS BEEN GATHERED BY THEIR FRIEND

EDWARD EVERETT AYER

AND PRESENTED BY HIM TO

Introduction

' Some admirers of solid reading say, with regretful sighs, and doleful faces, that the day of stable, instructing litera¬ ture is superseded by that of trashy novels, romances, etc., tending to corrupt the mind and principles. Formerly, the tables of even the fashionable were strown with volumes de¬ signed not only to amuse, hut to elevate, edify, and contrib¬ ute to the truly intellectual enjoyment of their readers instead of those fostering vitiated tastes and sullying youthful minds, with which they insist our shelves are now cumbered. They mourn over the degeneracy in this of our otherwise “ age of improvement,” and not rightly judging the true cause, al¬ most wish, from the evils which have arisen from this, that the noble art of printing had remained undiscovered.

But, dear friends, do not shake your head in such grave disapproval of the above apparently ironical paragraph. In part, I do agree with you. There does seem to have been a sad falling off from the pure healthful taste of former days, when a volume of true poetry, or a treatise on a sensible subject could be read with real zest and enjoyment. It is too ti-ue, that many works are now forced upon us detailing scenes too highly wrought, exciting and dissipating to the mind, and presenting pictiires tending to nourish a depraved moral hunger. In their places we should have productions divested of frivolous imaginings, wild speculations, and false sentimentalism; and I can not believe that our tastes are so vitiated that such we could not appreciate and duly value- There are real scenes of sorrow and pleasure even in this

INTRODUCTIOy.

Yl

common-place, plodding world of ours, which, if properlypictured, would absorb and interest without tui-ning the mind into an enervating or immoral channel. However, I do not carry condemnation of fiction to the extreme that I would banish it altogether. Certain European novelists maywrite a pure sentiment. Arthur—who would condemn hrs truthful, home-like tales to the shade ! Our noble Mrs. Ste¬ vens, enchanting us of a summer evening with her rich, in¬ structing stories of olden times. Miss Sedgwick, Miss Orne, Miss Pickering, Miss Gove, and last of the many in our men¬ tal view, sweet, gentle, piquant, Fanny Forester, touchingly pleading our forbearance “ with a smile on her cheek and a tear in her een.”

Well, lady novel reader, I fancy I see a smile again. I feared I had gained your displeasure; for, till the last sen¬ tence or two, I imagined a look of dudgeon stole over you face. I will endeavor to cater for the taste of all, as far as consistency will allow me. To the first class of readers I will just say, that within these lids they will find nought contained but truth; to the second, that, although all true, some of the incidents are sufficiently thrilling to please, I trust, even after perusing the effusions of James, Cooper, or Lippard, that prince of thrilling story tellers, and with this they must rest content. The narrative, such as it is, is ex¬ tracted, and compiled from various notes and other informa¬ tion obtained from Mrs. White, and Dr. White’s Government Reports, and srmdry documents kindly favored me, carrying them through a variety of scenes; interesting and extensive travels by land and water, and a residence of many years in the wilds of Oregon.

Chapter 1

Circumstances which suggested to Dr. White the project of going to Oregon—Emotions of Mrs. White—Announcing to the Board of Missions their willingness to go—Appointment received—Coinci¬ dence—Reception at New York and Boston—Embarkation—Friends accompany them a few miles out—Parting—Number and descrip¬ tion of the mission party—Children. 17

CHAPTER ir.

First dinner on board—Effect of a change of diet—Water; its scar¬ city—Swearing—Flying fish—Shark—Mother Carey’s chickens— Employment—Reaching the equator—Neptune—Amusing scene— Storm—Plate of ham... 25

Chapter III

Falkland Isles—Seals, etc.—Albatross—Cape Horn—Atmosphere— Man overboard—Miss Johnson’s Efforts for his conversion—Juan Fernandes—Burial of the cook—Whales—Loss of the ship Es¬ sex... 34

Chapter IV

Black Fish—Dance of the Porpoises—See Land—^Heights of Owyhee— Venerable Pilot—His after kindness—-Ladies left alone—Return of the Gentlemen—Cargo of Bananas, &c.—Visitors—Landing—Settle for the Winter—^Dress of the Natives—Numbers and occupation— Females’ attempt at Imitation—^Funeral ceremonies of the Princess—

VUl

CONTENTS.

Procession—Cahelas—Visit to Touii—Craters and Battle Field— Tamaahaah—Half-Caste School—Mrs. White’s School—Young Prince—Character of the Children—Nurse Kakeria—Her love for Silas—Valuable Presents. 42

Chapter V

Spring and preparations to leave the Sandwich Islands—Benefit to them of their residence there—Engage passage on board ship—Food und water—Windy and boisterous—Great loss—Contents of the boxes sent on board by Pilot Reynolds ; his wife—Interesting young man ; his marriage with a native woman—Mr. Grimes—Suc¬ cession of Storms—Endeavor to cross the Bar of the Columbia— Desperation of the Captain—Crossing—Lulling of the Winds—Ba¬ ker’s Bay—Rest—View—Varieties of Trees; their enormous size— King Chenamus and his Consort; his Intoxication ; their Dress— Aground three times-Visitor—Invitation to the Shore—First Canoe ride—Arrival at Astoria—Residence of Mr. Birney—Beds for the Night. 49

CHAPTER VI. Size of Astoria—The Diana still aground—Preparations to go to Fort

Vancouver—One eyed Pilot George—Remonstrances of Friends_

Mrs. White’s Resolution—Leaving Astoria—Singing of the Crew-

Beauty of the Shores—Reflections—Seeking for a place to Camp_

Startling Incident—Camping—Tale of the “Petrified Sister.”... 62

Chapter VII

Indian Village—Kindness of an Indian Woman—New kind of Um¬ brella—Accident—Meeting with Dr. Talmie—Killing an Eagle-

Arrival at the Fort—Garden and Plantation—Arrival of the Diana_

Mr. Jason Lee—Raillery of Miss Pitman—Mr. Lee’s Introduction- Leaving the Fort—Captain Hinckley’s officiousness—Laughable ar¬ rangement—Boat races—Conclusion respecting Mr. Lee—Putting in for the night—Supper and walk—Pond—Pleasant sail Willa¬ mette Falls—A tradition—Bargain—Portage—Elk Bluff—Pudding River—Arrival at Battens de porte McKoys—Letter—Departure for

CONTENTS.

IX the Mission—Delightful journey—Arrival at their destination—Miss Downing and Mr. Shepherd—His appearance—Two thousand two hundred miles journey ended—First dinner. 62

Chapter VIII

Mr. Daniel Lee—Stroll in the garden—Its beauty—Accommodations —Mission children—Names—Sufferings of the chief—Improvements

Miss Pitman and Mr. Lee—The two marriages. 73

Chapter IX

Occupations—Harvesting—Mr. Lee’s expertness—Temperance meet¬ ings—Ewing Young and his distillery—Customs of the Hudson’s Bay Company—Action of Gov. McLaughlin.. 77

Chapter X

Endeavors to reach home from Fort Vancouver by a new route—Be¬ wilderment in the woods—Fears—Unsatisfactory interview—Hun¬ ger and weariness of the pony—Despondency—Hunger and fatigue —Hallooing for succor—Seeking a place to rest—Ascent into a tree —Passing several hours in the saddle—Bed on the ground—Fears of wild animals—Wolf story—Morning—Departure—Steep hill— Suspicions—Sudden resolution—Reach the Willamette—Despond¬ ency—Paddles—Mrs. Bilake—Hunger and disappointment—Duck— Odd reply —“ A watched pot never boils”—Arrival at Mrs. B’s resi¬ dence—Home. 80

Chapter XI

Ladies’ employments—Hard Fare—Mr. Leslie’s arrival, and also Mr. Perkins’s—Close quarters—New house—Hearth—Wolves—Doctor White treed—Mrs. White’s weapon—Cowardice of the animals— The two species of wolves—Anecdotes—Antelope hunt or “cir¬ cling”—Swarming—Marriage of Miss Johnson and Mr. Perkins— Winter rains—Missionary meeting—Political convention—Mr. Lee’s return to the United States—Reasons—Missionary efforts at the Dalles—Revival at the mission—Startling report—Death of Mrs.

CONTESTS.

Lee and her babe—-Drowing of George—His former escape from death on the Seneca Lake—Mrs. Whitman’s little girl drowned— Coincidence. 87

Chapter XII

A call from the Dalles—'Mrs. White, Mr. Leslie, and Dr. Bailey set out for that Station-Return to the Cascados—Salmon parly—Visit among the natives—The aged turned off to die—Portage—Visit to an Indi¬ an burial place—Dead houses—War club—Re-embark—Swift Cur¬ rent—Conversation—Disaster—Struggles for breath—Mr. Leslie’s statement—Canoes—Conducted to the shore—The lifeless babe— Arrival at the Fort—Reach the falls of the Willamette—Strangers— Unhappy night—Reach home—Letters. 95

CHAPTER XHI.

Illness of Mr. Shepherd—Surgical operation—Singular impressions of Mrs. White—His death—Benevolent society—Visit to Xavier’s— A Mother’s anguish—Burying alive—The drowned boy—Outline of Dr. Bailey’s history—'John Turner—A hermitage—Turner’s bra¬ very—His seclusion. 105

Chapter XIV

Daniel Lee’s adventure—Visit from Mr. and Mrs. Beaver—English domestic—^Visit from Dr. Whitman and Gov’nor and Mrs. McLaugh¬ lin—Mode of travelling—Mr. Hall and Lady—^Party of the Hudson’s Bay Company—Intermarriage with the natives—Origin of the cus¬ tom—Extract from Astoria—Return of Mrs. Lee—News—Effect— Oregon Institute—Agriculture—Mr. Lee’s course on his first arrival in the country—Results—Exploring tour to the Umpqua country— Willamette Valley—Umpqua mountains—Difficult assent—A plan¬ tation—^Polite reception—Return—Meeting with an Indian party— Narrative of the Chief.. 116

Chapter XV

Difficulty with Mr. Lee—Extract from a report of the board of mis¬ sions—Embarcation—Delightful voyage to the Islands—Danger

COKTKNTS.

XI

—Mrs. W.’a concern—The pilot again—Visitors—Exploring squadron-Pic-nic-Erabark for the United States-Passenger^Mr. Diell’s death—Social parties—Hailing a vessel—Aarrival m port— Bennett’s express...

CHAPTER XVL

Trip to New York—Call on Mr. Fry—His singular behavior—Intro¬ ductions—Journey to Washington—Re :eption—Appointment to the Sub-Agency—Death—Lizette—Starting for Oregon—Company- Reach Havana—Separation—Sad thoughts—An old friend Arri¬ val at Geneva—Curiosity excited by the Indian boys—Reach Buf¬ falo_Milan_Travel via. Columbus to St. Louis—Reception ^Wil¬

liam Sublet—Kind reception at Independence—Anxieties—Meeting of the emigration—Resolutions.. ^^8

Chapter XVII

Departure—Emotions—A friend—Manner of camping—Order of the morning—Dog slaughter—Sickness of a child—Detained two days —Difficulty in crossing Caw river—Increasing illness of the child— Its death—The mother becomes ill—Mr. and Mrs. L. obliged to re¬ turn—Undulating country—Big Blue—Divide—^Rainy night Buf¬ falo—Platte river and plain—Fuel—South fork of the Platte—Chim¬ ney and castle—Singular scenery—Arrival at Fort Laramy—Cost of flour, etc.—Bridger and company—Alarming incident. 147

CHAPTER XYIII.

Buffalo Hunting—Mother Bennett—Tobacco scrape—Sweetwaer Valley—Indian Village—Preparations for defence—Happy disap¬ pointment—Snow—Great Divide—Fitz Patrick’s announcement— View—Two streams—Little Sandy—Separation—Reach Green river—The valley—Visit from a grisley bear—Animating chase— Another separation—Difficult travelling—Storm—Soda spring Ar¬ rival at Fort Hall—Set off in company with McDonald—Another division—Herding district—Natives—Snake river—^Drowning of a man—Fort Boicc—Burnt River Valley—Boiling spring—Doctor ob¬ tains a guide to Dr. Whitman’s—Arrival there—Departure for Walla-

CONTENTS.

XU

walla—Two days’ stay there—Formation of the Cascade Mountains —Petrifactions—A rock—Bluffs—Fort Vancouver mills—Willa¬ mette—Excitement at the Doctor’s arrival and appointment—A meeting—Its doings—Preparations for receiving the reinforcement— Meetings to establish a provisional form of government—A tribu¬ nate—Disturbance among the Indians at Wallawalla and Clearwa¬ ter—Call for the Agent’s interference. 158

Chapter XIX

General excitement—State of the colony—Improper conduct of the up¬ per country Indians—Character of the Walla wallas, Keyuses, and Nez Perces—Their disposition towards the missionaries—Mistaken course of the missionaries—Their treatment of a clergyman—Dan¬ gerous situation of Dr. Whitman among them—His kindness—Indi¬ an’s treatment of Mrs. W.—Burning of the mission mills—Ill treat¬ ment of Mr. Spalding and lady—Expedition of the Sub-Agent— Hardships—Reach Waiilatpu—Appointment with the chiefs—Mr. Spalding’s station—Reception—The Agent’s treatment of the In¬ dians—Public interview—Speeches of McKinley, Rogers, and Mc- Five Crows, Bloody Chief, and others—The Doctor's statement and advice—Appointment of a high chief—Feasting—Last meeting —Close—Results of Dr. White’s visit to the Nez Perces—Laws of

the Nez Perces—Return to Waiilatpu—Keyuse tribe—Feathercap_

Touiti’s accusation against the \yhites—Appointment for another meeting Reach Wascopum—Success—Doings of the missionaries —Catholic missions—Schools—Country upon the Columbia and its tributaries, and towards California—Limestone, &c.—Settlements at the Willamette—Palatine Plains—Clatsop Plains, &c.—Comparison between a certain portion of Oregon, and the New England States —Terrible disaster—Hard characters—Volcano—Report of Mr. Spalding—Mr. Jasen Lee’s Report. 172

Chapter XX

Excitement among the Indians—Different views of the alarmed whites —Another journey—State of the Indians—Mr. Spalding’s station— Nez Perces—Keyuses and Wallawailas—Presence of the women at

CONTENTS.

xiii

the feast—Peace—Visit the Dalles—Course of the agent—Laws of the whites—Immigrating party—Willamette valley—Gov. McLaugh¬ lin—False reports—Schools—Mission claim—Mr. Lee—Instructions to immigrants—Oregon Institute—Letters. 213

Chapter XXI

Manufacture of liquors—Breaking up a distillery—Conduct of Cockstock, an Indian—Affray—Killing of Cockstock—Deaths from poi¬ soned arrows—Interview with the Indians—Previous frightful affair with Cockstock—Alarming visit of fifteen Indians—Cold Blooded murder—Presents to Cockstock’s widow—Protection required—Let¬ ter from Mr. Hines—Meeting of the legislative body—Resolution— Unhappy affray—Conduct in courts—Resources of the country—Soil of Oregon—Arrival of Rev. Mr. Desmitt, nuns and priests—Port- Exports—^Imports—Tour—Schools—Quiet among the Indians— Note from Mr. Littlejohn—Fidelity of the Indians—Reasons for pre¬ venting the sale of liquor—Enactment of the legislative committee of Oregon—An act to provide ways and means. 228

CHAPTER XXIL

General health, etc.—Winter rains—State of affairs between the whites and Indians—Chief of the Fallatine plains—Aggression by the Indi¬ ans—Military assistance called for—Communication of the chief— Unhandsome and unjust behavior of the Californians—Murder of Eli¬ jah Hedding—Ellis sent to the whites—Salutary language and inter¬ view—Happy visit with Ellis—Intended revenge of the aggressed party—Invitation to the chiefs—Difficulty at fort Vancouver— Suspension of hostilities—The agents weariness of the unhappy state of affairs—Dissatisfaction with the government—An unpleas¬ ant affair settled—The colony—Methodist institute—Circulating medium needed—Agent’s unpleasant position—^Number of Indians— Letter from Mr. McLaughlin and Douglas—Answer from Russell and Stewart—Letter from Mr. Burnett—New wagon route—Report of the sub-agent’s interpreter—Mr. Lee relative to the Nez Perces— Letter from Mr. Lovejoy to the secretary of war—A resolution— Note to Hon. W. MediU. 239

COKTEKTS, xiv

Chapter XXIII

Thrilling story-“-A slave slain and buried with his master—Straiige custom—Inducements to the doctor to take the journey home—En¬ deavors to discover a new route through the Cascade mountains— Scaling a mountain—Vegetation-Snows—Fine view—Masses of rocks—Mt. Hood—Disheartened—Return to the base of the moun¬ tain—Molalah Indians—Disappointment—Wheat—Petrified ash— Advantages for settling—Deer and elk—Wild cat—New determina¬ tion—Fine country—Mounds—Mt. Spencer—Ascent laborious— Shrubs—Incident*—Stupendous view—Descent. 259

Chapter XXIV

Indian encampment—Prairies and band of Indians—Stream—Separa¬ tion—Spur of the mountains—Horses left—Indian village—Singular destitution—Embarking on the river—Startling accident—Swift travelling—Sterile tract—Tide water—Encamp—Indian village— Craw fish—Singular piece of meat—Indian explanation—The ocean —Strip of land—Boy—Brown’s claim—Railroad advantages—Indi¬ an toil—Good fire—In sight of friends—Breakfast—A start—A pres¬ ent—Wolves—Beautiful country—Arrival at the colony—Petition— Start again for the states—Party separate—Meeting at the Dalles— Indian encampment—^Wedding here to-day—Bride and bridegroom —Dresses—Wliimsical story—Disappointment in obtaining the bride’s beautiful dress—Murderous affair—Interesting account—Deserter— Another threatened—John Day river—Saucy Indians—Wallawallas —A halt—Visitors and presents—Agriculture and its effects—Hot Spring—Alarm—Keyuses and Nez Perces—Alarming report—Guard ■—Emigration—Letters—St. Joseph’s company—Mr. Fisher’s eager¬ ness for news—A meal—Odd reason for lagging behind—Chance for carrying a letter—Roguish girls'—Fort Hall—Runaway horse.... 270

Chapter XXV

Showers—Soda Springs—Dr. Burke—Pleasant interview—Green river —Great change—New route—Sterile and forbidding country—Sum¬ mit level—Uncomfortable night—Contrast—Divide—“ Home, sweet

CONTENTS,

XV home”—A trail—Sabbath travelling—Weather—Dreary pass—Ani¬ mals—Bear—Sweetwater valley—Independence rock—Solitary walk

_Halt Ravine—Snow—Red bluff—Camp on the Platte—Buffalo

_^^Needless fears—Humbug—Three grizzly bears—Signs of Indians

_Nondescript—Indian and family—Signs of danger—Herd of hor¬ des_Attempt to escape observation—Failure—An old man—Kind

reception-Handsome offer—An American—Feasting—Smoking- Reasonable request—Encampment—Two Frenchmen—Good meal —Warm spring—'Fort Laranny—Mr. Tappan—Fligibilily for a mil¬ itary post..

Chapter XXVI

Chapman’s return for the minute book—Hard time —.\ move—Return —White men—The Platte—Art nature—Platte crane—Polecat- Ash creek—Thompson—A present—Wolves—Kill a buffalo—A robbery—Woodless platte, valley, etc.—Bread—History of a lump of gu.-rar—Singular circumstance—Sabbath morning—Weather—Buf¬ falo Birds—Antelope, etc,—Length of the buffalo district—Large

herd—Express—Warning of danger—A sign of danger—Pawnees

_Unpleasant interruption—Pack-horse frightened—Troublesome

Indian—Departure—Firing—Another interruption—Number of Indi¬ ans_Madness of attempting to contend—^Brown and Saxton—Coat

taken_A blow—Hard usage—A protector—A ride on horse-back—

Saxton—Little demons—council—Delicate feast—Council more moderale—Another confiscation—“Bad people behind”—Not to be gulled—Saxton’s visitor—Package of manuscripts—Preparation to start—Kind old squaw—Gratitude—Unpleasant surprise—Advantag.oous trade proposed—Kind interference—Forced trade—Final con¬ clusion—Dr. Satterly. 297

Chapter XXVII

Departure—Prairie on fire—Strong wind—Raw com—Thirst—Dreams —Pool—Indians—Ruse—Living on raw corn—Big Blue—Grove- Wild turkey—LucKy shot—Postponement of a feast—Sabbath—Bad night—Indian and family flour—Nice bread—Frozen squashes— Residence of Mr. Fish—Beautiful country—Westport—Mr. Brown— Independence—Divine worship—Visit to the mission. 308

CONTENTS.

xvi

Chapter XXVIII

Outline of journey to Washington—Gracious reception—.Thoughts o home—Meeting with friends in New York city—Reach Ithaca— Arrival home—Letter to the editor of a western paper—Decrease of the Indian population in Oregon—Timbers of Oregon—Fossils— Animals—Birds—Soil—Legislators of Oregon—Anecdote—Wrong of the government in not extending jurisdiction over Oregon—Treat¬ ment of public officers—Treatment of Dr. White. 314

TEN YEARS IN OREGON.

Chapter I

Circumatances which suggested to Dr. White the project of going to Oregon—Emotions of Mrs. White—Announcing to the Board of Missions their willingness to go—Appointment received—Coinci¬ dence—Reception at New York and Boston—Embarkation—Friends accompany them a few miles out-Parting—Number and descrip¬ tion of the mission party—Children.

During the intense frost that prevailed in the midst of the great conflagration of ’36 at New York, Dr. White came in from a professional ride, and shivering with cold, seated himself by the fire; and while warming his be¬ numbed fingers, took up the Christian Advocate for a few moments’ perusal, and, glancing over its contents, sud¬ denly, in his usual jocular manner, observed to Mrs. W,, that there was a call for them from Oregon; that the board of missions advertised for a clergjTnan, physician, &c. &c., and as he could act in the capacity of pill-pedler, he thought it might be well to respond thereto. She did not immediately answer; and looking up, he was surprised to find her weeping. This seemed to him singular, as her disposition was so unusually cheerful, and it was so seldom that there was a trace of tears to be found upon her cheek, especially, as he thought, for so trivial a cause. In some confusion and mortification, he begged her not to allow his

TEN YEARS IN OREGON.

nonsense to cause her uneasiness ; assuring her, he was but jesting. Still she wept in silence, till, after a pause of seve¬ ral moments, she struggled for composure, seated herself by his side, extended her hand for the paper, and twice looking over the notice, she related to him the sensations with which she had ever traced the map of the Columbia, river.^ She farther remarked, that if he could so arrange his affairs as to render it consistent for him to go to Oregon, she would place no obstacle in his way, and with her moth¬ er’s consent would willingly accompany him. This was so unlike her usually matter-of-fact language, and seemed, in¬ deed, so visionary, that he was astounded, and in his turn, speechless. Becoming composed, they calmly discussed the matter, and eventually decided that prudence demanded then* remaining at home, maugre childish impressions, 'fhey confess, that, whenever they afterwards thought of this incident, it always provoked a smile, although it never failed to interest, serving forcibly to illustrate from what casualties sometimes spring strange and momentous results; as, till this moment, they had no more thought of engaging in such an enterprise, than of a trip to the moon.

* Mrs. White relates, that from childhood, while pursuing the study oi Geography, the Columbia river, and its adjoining country, had always created in her mind a deep and absorbing interest. Not that she had any reasonable expectation of ever visiting it, but for hours she would sit, wrapped in contemplation, her feelings and attention drawn towarde that region of the world, in an inconceivably strong and singular man¬ ner. It may seem a superstition, but, in after years, this was explain¬ ed by a circumstance which will ever cause her heart to throb with peculiar emotion.

[Reference is here had to her own narrow escape, and the diownin* of her httle son, in the Columbia river. See chapter 12.]

u

Up to this period, the board of missions of the Methodist Episcopal Church, had never employed a physician in any foreign field. But this was emphatically a time of singvdkar adventure, and the spirit of enterpiise had seized upon all ranks and departments of business. Nor, in their benev¬ olent operations, did the Christian churches stand still, ia the busy round. Various were the calls from heathca climes, and ready were the responses. Africa, China, Bur¬ ma, India, and the Isles of the South Sea, were not the only quarters from which had arisen the raacedon cry. Tbe calls from the Pacific had been heard, and the gladdening results of labors in the Sandwich groups and Society Isles, urged on to farther and more glorious conquests. Lank, but not least, came the cry from Oregon’s dark mountanw and savage plains. The thrill of the appeal of the Flathead delegation was electric, and fired the churches with a spirit of noble emulation. The Lees, Parkei*, Whitman, aad Spaulding, were the first to respond.

A fortnight passed on; not without some reflection <» the subject, and the Advocate announced that the required compliment had been completed, physician excepted. After more mature deliberation, Dr. W. addressed the secretmy of the board, stating that if no more satisfactory offers wejrc made, he was at their service. Ten days later, a letter arrived from Dr. Bangs, containing his appointment, aad requesting him to be in readiness to sail in a few weeks from Boston, via. Sandwich Islands, to Oregon. Mrs. W. still retained her determination to accompany her husband, though, till she saw the appointment and its publicatioB, she scarce realized a possibility of a necessity of her dora^ so. The thought that they were now to leave, probaW^ for ever, their dear home and dearer friends, was a sad we,

TKN YKAR8 IK ORKQOK.

and she shed tears of regret, though not of reluctance, to go. She pictured to herself her mother’s anguish, at what must he very like consigning her only daughter to the grave. The anticipated separation from that mother who had nursed her so tenderly, and loved her with the tireless, changeless affection which the maternal heart only knows, filled her with sorrow. However, by a fortunate coincidence, they were spared the painful scene they had feared, and obtained her consent with little difficulty. When they visited her for that purpose, she had just been reading, for the first time, the life of Mrs. Judson; and the example of this excellent lady had so interested her, that, when their project was laid before her, she listened with comparative calmness; and, though somewhat astonished, was willing they should go where duty led them. This, in some measure, relieved Mrs. White ; and, with a lightened heart, and more compo¬ sure, she set about the necessary preparations. In a short time, all was in readiness; the last farewell wept, rather than spoken; the last yearning look lingered on cherished objects, and they were on their way to Oregon. At New York they were received with the utmost cordiality, and warm, kindly feeling, for which that city has been so justly distinguished. On the day that their eldest son was one year old, they embarked for Boston, where they were like¬ wise received with a kindness and attention worthy of en¬ suring their lasting gratitude. Duiing their stay, their time was mostly occupied in making purchases of utensils for the future comfort of themselves and others of the expedition, in their far-off destination. At last all was completed, and they embarked on board the ship Hamilton, Capt. S. Bar¬ ker, for the Sandwich Islands; and some thirty of the friends proposed escorting the mission family a short

TEN YEARS IN OREGON.

distance on their way. For this purpose, they also went on board, hiring a pilot boat to accompany the ship. They enjoyed a delightful season together, although the mission¬ aries felt as though about to be tom for ever from those con¬ nected to them by ties of real friendship, for they accounted them dear as though they had known them for years instead of days. Their enjoyment was brief, however, as it was late in the day, and they were soon out of sight of land. At the end of two hours they were compelled to separate. That their adieus were sorrowful, may not be doubted ; indeed, this, or any other word in our language, is inade¬ quate to describe the emotions of the party. As the pilot boat dropped round the stern of the vessel, its occupants waved their handkerchiefs, and simultaneously began sing¬ ing a farewell missionary hymn. The effect was electric! Some rushed to the side in agony, as though they would recal the departing ones, and return with them to their na¬ tive land. Others covered their faces, and tears streamed through the trembling fingers ; and sobs shook the frames of even strong men. They thought not of fonnalities; in that hour it was not a shame for the sterner sex to weep. The forms of their friends fast lessened in the distance, and at last their boat looked like a speck on the wave, and the sweet cadences of that beautiful song, faintly rilling along to their hearing like the sigh of an angel, were the last sounds that reached them from the home of civilization. With hushed respiration, bowed heads, and straining ears, they listened to its low breathings, now wafted gently and sooth¬ ingly to them on the breeze, then dying away, and finaUy lost in the whisperings of wind and waves. It is folly to attempt description, but for weeks did it haimt their slum¬ bers, while tossing upon the treacherous deep; and it came

TEN YEARS IN OREGON.

not alone, for with it were fair visions of parents, home, brothers and sisters, joyous childhood and youth, and every thing they had known at home, floated in vivid pictm-es be¬ fore them, touched by the fairy pencil of the dream-angel.

Incessantly engaged in preparation while on shore, they had had no opportunity of making the acquaintance of those who were to be their ship companions. They now exerted themselves to do so, and soon succeeded, sympathy drawing them together, for they must now look to one another for that comfort which was denied them from every other earthly source. The company consisted of thirteen individuals: three young ladies—A Miss Downing, engaged to Mr. Shepherd, who had previously gone out in an expedition; Miss Johnson, and a Miss Pitman, who afterwards married Mr. Jason Lee, who was also in Oregon ; Mr. Beers, a black¬ smith, from Connecticut, his wife and three children; Mr. Wilson, a carpenter, from New Bedford; Dr. and Mrs. White, George, their adopted son, and their babe.

A more particular notice of some of these persons might be interesting to the reader, and I will begin with Mr. Beers.

He was a man of low stature, rather dark complexion, thin visage, rigid puritanical manners, and well versed in scrip¬ ture, ever stoutly insisting on all coming to his landmark, his righteous soul chafing sorely at the least departure of his friends from his golden rule. Being rather bilious, it in¬ creased the austeiity of his manners, which failed to render him a favorite with either crew or passengers.

Mrs. Beers was of medium height, round favored, philo¬ sophical turn of mind, docile, quiet temperament, and per¬ fectly obedient to her husband, as the reader might suppose she had best be, after the above description of him.

Mr. Wilson was five feet ten inches in height, cheerful,

2!

sympathetic, and afifectionatc, fond of relating old sea stories, for he had been quite an experienced whaler. A peculiar characteristic, and a strange one for a man, was an almost childish partiality for cats; and as there were none on board, he made a pet of a beautiful kid, whose head he would comb and caress for an liour together, talking to it the while as though it was a human being. While here, I will give the sequel of its short life. As they approached the Sandwich Islands, it became necessaiy' to repair the ship; and Tip, partaking too freely of the paint which had been left within his reach, was consequently thrown into a decline, and yielded up his breath before they entered port, lamented hy all, as the little creature, by its affectionate playfulness, had much endeared itself to them.

Miss Pitman, from New York, was rather tall, with black eyes and hair, resolute and persevering, fervently pious, and possessing considerable poetic genius.

Miss Downing, of Lynn, Massachusetts, had dark hair, blue eyes, elegant form ; exhibited taste and neatness in her attire, and was much beloved by her companions, and always remembered by them with pleasure and respect.

Miss Johnson, also, had dark hair and blue eyes, and fair complexion; and, if not really beautiful, she was very win¬ ning and engaging, ever truly devoted, but of cheerful, happy disposition. She was lovely and amiable, desirous of rendering herself useful, in which she so well succeeded while in Oregon. A purer, more truly missionary spirit, and one more zealous in the work to which she had devoted her¬ self, has not, perhaps, as yet, visited that distant clime.

As children are my pets, I will depart from the custom of many authors, and talk of them for a few moments, and then relate some of the incidents of the voyage. George was the

TEN YEARS IN OREGON.

son of a poor widow in Havana. He was a round favored, plump little fellow, much attached to his book, and of sin¬ gularly intellectual cast. His memoiy was extraordinary. Few, either man or boy, could compete with him in this re¬ spect. His narrow escape from drowning in the Seneca Lake, together with his dreadful fate in Oregon, will be brought in, more appropriately, at another time. Mr. Beers’ eldest daughter was a very frank, happy young girl, perhaps some¬ what of a hoyden, as young girls will occasionally be. She was very fond of Benny, and they enjoyed extremely well the sports of Mr. Wilson with the kid; and the vessel often rang with their noisy shouts of meniment, as they frolicked together. Benny was a child with piercing, laughing black eyes ; in short, a pretty babe, and afterwards a fine boy. There was his little sister, Eleanor, who was a great talker, like many of her sex, afiording the elder one much amuse¬ ment by her lisping prattle. Children, so far from contrib¬ uting to the enjoyment of people generally, are often con¬ sidered annoyances; yet the artless chatter and playful pranks of these, greatly dispelled the gloom and ennui which would sometimes steal over the ship.

TEN YEARS IN OREGON.

Chapter II

First dinner on board. Effect of change of diet—Water; its scar¬ city—Swearing—Flying fish—Shark—Mother Carey’s Cliickens— Employment—Reaching the Equator—Neptune—Amusing scene— Storm—Plate of Ham.

The departure of their friends left the missionaries’ feel¬ ings so harrowed, that they had little appetite for their din¬ ner. However, when called, they descended to the cabin, and the table and its appurtenances were before them.— The table was about twenty feet in length, fastened to the deck, and the benches likewise; other seats they then saw none. They seated themselves, and the viands were served. A turreen of bean soup, in the first instance sufficiently weak, but again diluted, so that its richness could in no wise injure the digestion, was placed before them. This was dis¬ posed of, as well as possible, hope suggesting that something more palatable would next present itself. Next came some hard sea biscuit, and a large, uncouth piece of half-boiled beef, at whicli they gazed with rueful faces, scarce daring to hope for sufficient strength of jaw for its mastication, and involuntarily wishing for more of the before despised bean soup. Dr. White’s little son was but thirteen months old; and with what management they were to keep him alive, on such food, was beyond his parents’ comprehension. How¬ ever, they submitted with the best grace they could, think¬ ing that the dessert might be more acceptable. But they bad no sooner eaten what they thought proper of this deli-