The Attache in Madrid: Or, Sketches of the Court of Isabella II

Front matter

THE

ATTACHfi IN MADRID ;

OR,

Chapter II

Aspect of Madrid— Tiie Legation— My reception— Arrangements— Diplomacy— My droll acquaintance— Pails of champagne for horses— A drive with Count A— The French Legation— The Italian Legation, «fec., ... 6

CHAPTER IIL

A ride— Gate of Alcala— Beauty of the climate— Dress of the Spanish ladies— Of the gentlemen— The Duchess of Alva— Obelisk in honor of the Queen— The Salon— The crowd— The sunset, . . • • • .15

CHAPTER VL • fagb Diplomatic Dinner at tho Countess de Montijo's — The Countess — ^Eugenie — Dramatic representation at Caramanchel, . . . . . .45

Chapter VII

Soir6e at the French Embassy— Gen. Jose Concha, the Marquis of Molins, Calderon de la Barca, Bravo Miirillo, &c. — Impressions of Spanish Beauty- Extravagant Costume, ........ 48

CHAPTER YIII.

The Drama in Madrid — Italian Opera — A Scandal-monger— The Opera— Norma

— Sefiora Gazzaniga— The Marquesa de B , . . . .55

Chapter IX

Female Charity in London and Madrid contrasted — Slanderers, their social position and character — The Fair Penitents of Madrid and London compared, 60

Chapter X

Ofllcial reception of the Attache by her Majesty— The Queen, her appearance and memory — The King — The Princess— Her Nurse— Murillo's Santa Ysabel— The Alcazar, 67

CHAPTER XL

Mr. Soule and Mr. Perry— Calderon de la Barca — Appearance, manners, and

polish of Mr. Soule, ........ 72

CHAPTER XIL

Churches of Madrid— Salesas Reales, its magnificence- Adorned by "Works of Art— Church of Santa Teresa— Republicanism at Church — Church of San Jose ; Military at Divine Worship— The General Hospital— Catholic Charity — Hospitals in general — Hospital of St. Patrick, . . . .74

CHAPTER XIIL

Opera Comique— Martinez de la Rosa— Spanish love of music— Teatro del Principe—Theatre of Lope de Vega— Count A , . . . .86

CHAPTER XIV.

Dinner at the English Legation— Don Juan His Vanity— His Discomfiture— His Excuse— The question of Religious Toleration— The Times ana English Policy— The Spanish People, Parties, and Politics — Rigoletto— Female Ease and Grace— Spanish Inborn Politeness, . . .90

CONTENTS.

CHAPTER XV. PAGB Pulmonia— Charitable Institutions, liow managed— Hospital of San Fernando- College of the Unprotected— Foundling Hospital— Mendicant Asylum— College for Orphan Girls— Confraternity of Eefnge and Pity— Other Hospitals and Asylums, ......... 101

CHAPTEE XVI.

All Souls' Day— Prayers for the Dead— A Jesuit Priest— M declares his

CHAPTER XVII,

Opening of the Cortes, Election of President, and Description of the House— The Senate Chamber— Voting and Debating— Debate on the Concession of Railroads—General Armero and the Marquis of Molins, their Speeches— Ball at the French Embassy— M. Soul6— London and Madrid Ladies— The Duke of Alva's Remark on Madame Soule —Extravagant Costume — Young Soule challenges the Duke— A Raflae, . . • . . . .112

CHAPTER XVIIL Duke and Duchess of Montpensier — Royal Armory — Its Treasures — Chivalrous Spain— Naval Museo — Royal Stables — Academia, Paintings of Murillo — Velasquez— The Museo— Female Education— The Confessional— Spanish Gentlemen— Countess Montijo, .......

CHAPTER XIX.

The Eifa— Rigoletto and Trovatore— Christmas morning— Duke of Alva knighted 162

CHAPTER XX.

The New Year— Ball— Birth of the young Princess— Preparations for Baptism —Death of the Ynfante— Lying in State— Opposition to Government— A Proclamation, ......... 167

CHAPTER XXL

Burial of the Ynfanta— A singular document— Funeral procession — The Esco-

rial— Eeligious ceremonies— Internal grandeur of the Escorial— The return, 174

CHAPTER XXIL

The Prince of Parma— Balls and Reunions— The poor policy of keeping quiet- Coup d'6tat— Gen. O'Donnell, .......

X

CONTENTS.

CHAPTEE XXIII. PAGB Eeunions at the Queen-Mother's— Fashionable life— Queen Cristina— Her second ball — Eeview of the troops— Proclamation against General O'Donncll — Madrid gay, . . . I95

CHAPTEE XXIV.

Masked Ball— An Adventure — A Mysterious Beauty — May have been a Ghost — Grows feverish— Convalescent — The Mystery heightened— My Doctor's Opinion, 201

CHAPTEE XXV.

Another ball at Queen Cristina's— King and Queen— Eevolt and Death of Flore— Flight of the Eebels— Fate of Latorre— Another ball— Spanish Aristocracy- Masks on the Prado— M masked— Bal Costume— Conservatorio— Don

CHAPTEE XXVI.

Burial of the Sardine— Spanish Dance— Country and City Life in Spain— Duke Ossuna's Palace— An old Story-teller— Eesidence and Grounds of the Duke — Politics— Cuadros Santos, .... . . 222

CHAPTEE XXVII.

Casa de Campo— Palm Sunday— Holy Week— Eoyal devotion— Washing Pilgrims' Feet— The Queen's Dress— The Princess— Lavatorio— A visit to the different Churches— San Tsidaro el Eeal— Good Friday— Church of Santiago—San Ysidaro— Santo Tomas— Bull Fights- Paris— Frenchmen, their acquisitiveness— The Madeleine— French Emperor and Empress — Eeturn to Madrid— Government Loan— Death-Chamber vs. a Ball-Eoom— Victimized — TheEesult, 233

CHAPTEE XXVIIL The Queen's Drawing-room— The Throne-room— Ceremony of a Eoyal Eeception— News of the Assassination of the Prince of Parma— Sivori — The'Principe— "The Black Warrior" Affair— Angry Political Discussion— A Horse-race—La Eomeria— The Manolas— Hospitality— Aranjuez— Gardens of the Principe— The Palace— Its Environs, . ■ . . . . .257

CHAPTEE XXIX.

The Verbena— The "Bat"— Its Attacks on the Government— The Queen visits the Escorial— Agitation— Eevolt of the Cavalry— O'Donnell at their Head- History of the Conspiracy— O'Donnell and the Military— Public Anxiety— The Queen's Eeturn— Madrid declared in a state of Siege— Proclamations— Eumors — Defeat of the Eebels, ....... 274

CONTENTS.

xi

CHAPTER XXX. pack The Eebels disheartened— False Eeports— The Diplomatic Corps congratulate the Queen— " Justice, Liberty, and Morality" in the Eebel Camp — Eetreat of the Insurgents— Visit to the Battle-Field— Assurances of Eoyalty— The Insurgents desperate— Colonel Garrigo pardoned— Letters from his Family —Energy of Salamanca— Dinner Party— Political Discussion— Becomes Uproarious- Blaser and the Insurgents— Public Works— Parties— The Duke of Bailen, .......... 291

CHAPTEE XXXL Bursting of the Storm— Eesignation of the Ministry— Insurrection in Madrid- Fury and Violence of the Mob— Plundering— The new Ministry— Destruction of Life and Property— Terror and Dismay— Juntas— Periodicals— Inflammatory Addresses— Patriotic Orgies— Flight of the Administration— The Fugitives, . . , 309

CHAPTEE XXXIL Decrees of the Junta— A Horrid Scene— Espartero— The Queen Insulted— Eesolves to Abdicate— Expected Arrival of Espartero— The Queen's Manifesto —The Mob— Cristina— Proclamations and Vivas— Barricades— Condition of Madrid— Chapel of Our Lady of Solitude— The Manolas Quarrelling— Espartero Arrives— O'Donnell and Espartero— The New Cabinet— The Fugitives — Gymnastics of the Spanish, 824

CHAPTEE XXXIIL The Cabinet in Trouble— Official Changes— Beggars— Situation of Cristina— Union Club— Catalonia— Office-seeking— San Miguel— Fun cion at the Circo —Espartero and O'Donnell— Eesults of the Eevolution— The Clubs— Departure of Cristina— Popular Discontent— Escape of the San-Luis Ministry— Cristina's Palace— Espartero, O'Donnell, San Miguel, and Eos de Olano— A letter from my Guest— Character of the Spanish— Adieu to Madrid, , 344

THE ATTACH^ IE MADEID.

TRANSLATED FROM THE GERMAN..

CHAPTEK I.

Mi/ parentage — Destined to a diplomatic career — Proceed to Madrid as AttacM to Count A. — First impressions.

Madkid, September, 1853.

Lord Byron awoke one morning and found himself famous. I have no doubt the sensation was delightful ; but I would not exchange for it the joy which I feel this morning, on opening my eyes after a short and hurried sleep, at finding myself in Madrid. From my earliest years Spain has been the land of my day-dreams — romantic, chivalrous Spain! Its very contrast to my native land, with its cold blue lakes and frozen mountains, made it charming to my imaginatio,n^ Land of cloaked Caballeros; of Senoras, with dark eyes gleaming from beneath black mantillas ; of serenades and adventures, of love and song ; land of the Cid Campea-

THE ATTACHE IN MADRID.

dor ! how often have I lain at the bottom of my boat, covered with my cloak, wrapped in the adventures of Gil Bias, puzzling over the delightful Don Quixote, or mystifying myself with the pages of Calderon ; and so completely forgetting all external objects, that the sound of the dinner-bell ringing a tremendous peal through the woods surrounding our chateau, and intended solely for my ear, had scarcely power to startle me from my reveries, till the thoughts of my father's grave reprimand, my mother's gentle reproach, and the bantering inquiries of my young sisters, forced me to shut the fascinating volumes, spring hurriedly on shore, climb the hilly path amidst the pine trees, and arrive heated at the dinner table, just as the venerable butler was handing round the soup !

My mother was born and bred in Italy — ^my cradle was rocked to the sound of Neapolitan ballads — my father represented his sovereign, not many years ago, at the Court of Madrid. I spent that time, and, indeed, many years previous, at Ascott, but when I returned for the holidays, I had no, pleasure equal to that of listening to my mother when she spoke of Madrid, of Aranjuez, of the Escurial. In short, Spain was my vocation ; and there is no struggling against manifest destiny. So my father, finding that neither Ascott nor foreign travel had cured me, procured me,

through his interest with the prime minister in , an

attacheship to Madrid — not with the fond notion of my becoming distinguished in the diplomatic career, but with a view to the facilities thus afforded of obtaining the entree into good society, under the wing of my respectable minister and chief, Count A .

Behold me, then, taking a hurried leave of my family, and receiving injunctions from each individual to write by every courier. My father desired me to give him an account

JOURNEY FROM FRANCE TO MADRID.

of the state of political affairs ; my mother — a strict and pious Catholic — of the state of religion, of the churches, and charitable institutions; my sisters, of the court, the balls, and especially of the dress and manners of the Spanish ladies ; my younger brothers, of the clubs, the sport, the horses, the bull-fights, &c. ; in short, I was to write a kind of modern history of Spain, and if I had obeyed all their behests, his Majesty's service- would have suffered greatly in the neglect of the diplomatic duties destined to be performed by his loyal and faithful attache. However, I promised faithfully to write frequently ; and when my venerable grand-aunt, the

Baroness L , said, as she leant upon her gold-headed staff,

" Don't plague him with more nonsense — let the boy write when he has time, and whatever he likes — never make a toil of a pleasure," — I thought her the most sensible woman in my fatherland. In short, as my Irish friend in this capital remarked, " After all, you have only come out for a lark," by which I suppose he meant to indicate my joyous and soaring aspirations; I certainly have arrived here more intent upon amusement than diplomacy, while hoping to combine the two.

To Madrid I came via France. Every one knows the . journey. My chief, who has lived many years in Madrid, but has lately been in Paris upon conge^ travelled in all the state of his own equipage and servants. I came with the English courier, not the shadow of an adventure on the way. When we crossed into the Spanish frontier, my companion probably had doubts of my sanity, from the extravagant demonstrations of joy in which I indulged, whilst he philosophically smoked his cigar. He allowed me ten minutes to run into the cathedral at Burgos, where I would gladly have lingered for hours. When I returned, full of enthusiasm, I found him gravely devouring a sandwich, of which he had a

THE ATTACHE IN MADRID.

goodly pile in his hamper, and washing it down with a glass of old port. He invited me to join him, and begged to know what interest I could take in watching a group of Spanish soldiers, of dirty peasant women, and whining beggars. Not a bit whining, however, were they. They asked for alms as independently as if they conceived themselves to be rather conferring a favor than otherwise. They evidently acted upon the principle, that "more blessed is he that giveth than he that receiveth," and gave so many blessings in return for a cuario^ that, after all, they were cheaply purchased. Amongst the peasant women, there were several worthy of figuring on the canvas of Murillo ; and, in fact, from the moment of entering Spain, I could not but remark that we scarcely passed one object which would not have afforded a good subject for the pencil.

The lucky derangement of a wheel gave me half an hour to enter a fonda^ and with my head full of the ventas of the immortal Cervantes, I was surprised to find a number of diligence travellers seated before an excellent breakfast. The bread was especially commendable. The repast was plentiful ; stewed fowls and roast meat following the soup and puchero ; vegetables, chocolate, grapes, plums and pears in profusion ; and, moreover, two beautiful girls in waiting. I sketched the head of the handsomest, and even my companion allowed that she was good-looking and quite clean ; but he persisted in abstaining from all food, insisting that every thing was full of rancid oil and garlic, even the grapes, of which, together with bread, I carried off a large supply.

It was late when we entered Madrid, a beautiful moonlight gilding the houses and churches with a silvery light, and gleaming upon the distant mountains; but no one seemed to have gone to rest. Bright forms were on the balconies, sounds of music issued from open casements, the

FIRST IMPRESSIONS IN MADRID.

streets were still crowded. Groups of men stood at the doors of the cafes, talking, laughing, smoking; and it was with some reluctance that I took the advice of my sage companion, and followed him to a casa de Jiuespedes (Anglice, boarding-house) in the Calle de Pontegas, where he kindly and with some difficulty procured for 'me a small bedroom, looking out upon the court-yard, and left me to my reflections. Couleur de rose they were. No young damsel about to make her debut, at her first ball, can ever have had brighter. I respect sleep as did Sancho Panza, when there is nothing worth keeping one's self awake for. As this was decidedly my case, I addressed myself to slumber, dreamt that a Manola, with a knife in her garter, was dancing the cachucha in the most bewitching manner, and woke to the sound of the finest military music I have heard since I left.

Having dressed and breakfasted in an almost invisible little saloon which adjoined my bedroom, I proceeded to examine my letters of introduction, and to make my plans for the day, with no small impatience to emerge into the air and sunshine. First, as in duty bound, I repaired to my Legation.

OHAPTEE II.

Aspect of Madrid — the Legation — My reception — Arrangements — Diplomacy- — My droll acquaintance — Pails of champagne for horses — A drive with Count A. — The French Legation — The Italian Legation, Sfc.

2 A. M. — Impossible to sleep when all Madrid is still astir, so for an hour or so I address myself to my journal. To arrive betimes at the Legation, I took a herlina, a little horse carriage, like the remises in Paris, Though early, all Madrid seemed to be in movement. It appeared to be a jour de fete, but I found that this is the general aspect of the city. Bells were ringing, military bands were playing, blind men were hawking about papers, containing wonderful news, fair ladies in mantillas were going to mass, others were engaged in the feminine occupation of shopping ; the streets through which I passed were thronged with a busy, happylooking crowd. Numerous carriages were already passing along the Calle Mayor, in some of which were officers in uniform, who were driving in the direction of the palace. I had but a momentary view of this magnificent edifice, perhaps the most noble of all royal residences. The Legation stands in the Plaza del Oriente, and fronts the eastern side of the palace. I found the minister installed in very comfortable quarters. He was at his toilette when I arrived, and was shown into the chancellerie ; nor was I disposed to find the

MY RECEPTION. 7

time long, as I took my post of observation at tlie window, and looked at the solid, colossal work of the architect, Sagneti, which I have been told was twenty-nine years in building.

My reception by Count was most kind, and even

paternal. He spoke of my father with all the respect which his character deserved— of my dear mother, with enthusiasm. He had known her when she formed one of the chief ornaments of the court at Naples. He spoke of Caroline's husband, my well-beloved brother-in-law, as a rising young man, likely to become distinguished as a statesman. In short, I found myself completely at home ; and some slight feelings of heimweh, which, in spite of my Spanish mania, have now and then come over me since I left, vanished as by magic. The count is slight in person, infirm in health, with one of those countenances which the Spaniards call simpdtico. He seems precisely as my father described him — severe in requiring the strict observance of their duties from his subordinates, yet of an indulgent disposition, not inclined to cavil at the faults or follies of youth, and though fond of retirement himself, ready to encourage them in the enjoyment of all the pleasures of society natural to their age. As the secretary of Legation is absent in Vienna, he told me that, for the present at least, I could have an apartment in the Legation, and presented me with a key, by means of which I can make my exit and entree independently, at all hours, through a back door leading to the garden. " For I know by experience, my dear count," said he, "that surveillance is not particularly agreeable to young men of your age. At seven you will always find a place at my table, but no remarks made if you do not occupy it, except on extraordinary occasions, which, let me warn you, frequently occur in Madrid (though that, I confess, sounds something of an Irish bull), your business hours are from ten

THE ATTACHE IN MADRID.

to four, generally speaking. But now, as your father's friend, you will, I am sure, excuse me if I give you some advice upon one subject. I know by his letter that you have obtained your appointment more as an advantage to your social position than with any view of becoming a diplomatist. This is an error. Diplomacy is a noble profession, but were it less so than I truly consider it, you will lead but a useless life, and fritter away the best period of your existence, if you adopt a profession without striving to excel in it. Endeavor to understand its duties. Make yourself master of the political condition of this extraordinary country. If, instead of a diplomatist, you had become a village schoolmaster, I should still say : Put your heart in whatever you have undertaken, for whoever does not gain knowledge loses it. There is no standing still. My library is small, but full of the best books upon these subjects, all of which are at your disposal. You will have much spare time, our relations with Spain being unimportant, compared with those of other nations-— of England or France for example; but at present, in the absence of the secretary, you will have sufficient occupation; and I am mistaken if you do not speedily discover the importance of applying yourself earnestly to obtain information in all that concerns your present profession ; whether you are destined to become a mere man of fortune, living on your paternal acres, or to continue in your present career. I do not mean to read you a lecture, but I earnestly desire to remove from your mind the idea of using your profession merely as a means of obtaining an entree into certain aristocratic circles."

I thanked the minister warmly, the more so that I felt he was right, and that my object had been a very unworthy one. He insisted, however, upon giving me a few days of complete holiday, examined my letters of introduction, advised me to

MY BANKER.

go to my banker's and to deliver my letters to Mr. M ,

an Irish gentleman, of whom he spoke in high terms, and who he assured me knew more of Madrid than any man in town — and desired me to return at four o'clock, when he was going out, and would introduce me to several of his colleagues.

When I saw Don Jose Salamanca, I wondered at my hardihood in calling him my. banker ! Some day I shall give you an account of this extraordinary man, one of the most striking characters in this or in any other country — daring, energetic, spurning all obstacles — a millionnaire at one time, at others, crible de dettes — a man of business, a man of pleasure, royal in his expenditure—according to his enemies, unprincipled — according to all, generous ; sometimes living like a prince, at others hidden in a garret and escaping for his life — full of talents, inexhaustible in resources— a kind of practical Monte Christo, only that his resources lie in his own abilities, rather than in any hidden treasure.

But at present it is with his personnel alone that I have to do. I found a tall, gentlemanlike man of a certain age — extremely handsome, rather gravely dressed — with a simple, frank expression of countenance, a quantity of brown hair very negligently dressed, and falling a good deal over his forehead; good penetrating eyes, and almost a boyish smile. How my Irish friend, to whom I have not yet introduced you, laughed afterwards, when I gave him my first impressions of Salamanca ! He received me with great kindness, and when we had despatched our business, entered into conversation with me. His manners are extremely agreeable; and as he also knows my father, and even received some service from him during his residence in Paris, we have many subjects in common. He made me many 1*

THE ATTACHE IN MADRID.

offers of service, apparently sincere, offered to introduce me

to the Casino, to the tertulia of the Senora B -1, and

invited me to dine with him on Sunday next, besides putting his house, in general terms, d mi disposicion. His study was beautifully fitted up, even luxuriously, but in excellent taste. Fine paintings on the walls, and choice books on the shelves of his library. We smoked a cigar and separated, I will not say mutually pleased, but will answer for the good impression made upon myself.

I then carried my letter to Mr. M , who lives in the

Plazuela de la Villa, rendered illustrious, as he afterwards told me, by the ancient house of los Lujanes, where the tower is still standing in which Francis I. was confined after the battle of Pavia. I like the grandiose air of the streets in the vicinity of the palace, and even prefer them to the more modern and commodious part of Madrid. I was fortunate in finding Mr. M at home. He received me at first

rather coldly, for like all Irishmen educated in London, he has adopted some of that stiffness and formality which characterize the Englishman in his first reception of strangers. But he thawed rapidly, and frankly confessed to me, that he is so much bored by constant letters of introduction, that in self-defence he has adopted a system of reserve until he knows something of the individual presented. In age he appears about forty ; tall, and athletic in figure, with a true Irish face ; fair hair, blue eyes, and a remarkably good-humored expression of countenance. Slightly sarcastic, or he would not be a free-born Briton, but good-natured au fond. He has resided in Andalusia for five years, in Madrid for ten, was educated at an English University, is full of English prejudices, but likes the Spanish character, though he swears against their government as a matter of course. He saw Caroline when she was presented in London, and declares

ADVICE TO THE EMBASSIES.

she was so handsome, he supposed her to be an English girl, and was sorry to find she had an outlandish name. He paid me the compliment of saying that I resembled her very much.

]y[ lives like a man in easy circumstances, has a

comfortable bachelor's establishment, modelled as closely as possible upon an English one; keeps horses, has an English groom, an English butler, and an old Spanish housekeeper, who reigns paramount in the household. He, however, employs a French cook, who has orders to serve up every thing d VAnglaise, which must be excruciating to the feelings of Monsieur Adolphe. He was less profuse in his offers of service than the banker, but told me in a few words that he would gladly be of use to me, and also finished by inviting me to dinner, which invitation I declined for that day, thinking myself in duty bound to keep company with my chief.

At four o'clock I returned to the Legation, at the door of which I found a handsome ambassadorial-looking equipage, with a couple of beautiful bright bays, and well-appointed servants, with the — cockades. - The minister was in the act of drawing on his gloves, and I received commendation for my punctuality, which praise had all the charm of novelty.

We drove in the first instance to the French Embassy, an old palace belonging to the Dukes of Ossuna, known as the Palace of Benavente, where the duchess of that name, grandmother of the present duke, resided, and where, as Count A told me, she used to reunite all the distinguished society of Madrid. " Nothing," he added, "could be more charming than these tertulias; no one was ever more graceful or more witty than the duchess, no one more generous and splendid. She was also very eccentric and

THE ATTACHE IN MADRID.

independent. I remember her reading a lesson in her own way to the French ambassador. At a ball which he gave her, the champagne came to a close before the entertainment was over. A few evenings after, his excellency came to visit the duchess, in great state, with a numerous suite. To the surprise of his servants, large pails of champagne were brought from the stable, and set before the horses ! But here we are at the Cuesta de la Yega, and on the extremity of this hill stands the Embassy, almost in the country, as you will observe."

We passed through several splendidly furnished salons, commanding from the windows the most beautiful and extensive view of the surrounding country that you can imagine, bounded by the mountains of Guadarrama and Somosierra, their summits even now crowned with snow. We were shown into the cabinet of the Marquis Turgot, who received us with much politeness, and seemed to me a very worthy representative of his Imperial Majesty, and a dignified doyen of the diplomatic corps. He and the count had a long political discussion, which my ignorance of persons and politics here prevented me from taking much interest in. They spoke of General Lersundy, the present president of the council, and the probabilities of a change of the ministry before long. I heard him commended as an honest man and a good general, but doubts expressed of his being able to cope with the difficulties of his present position. I learned that Calderon de la Barca had been sent for, to assume the post of minister of state, but that, being at the present time in Washington, where he is minister, he may not arrive for some time. I liked his name, at all events, which recalled my northern reveries to my mind, and my favorite passages of La Vida es sueno. I looked down from the western window, and saw the Manzanares creeping along like a

THE FOREIGN LEGATION.

silver snake, its banks bordered by apparently all the white linen in Madrid, in such prodigious quantities, that the country around seemed like a vast bleaching-field. From the contemplation of this sovereignty of washerwomen, I was called by the marquis, who kindly proposed to present me " a ses dames," and we followed him into the reception room of Madame la Marquise. A fine-looking woman she is, with features strongly marked, and full of intelligence ; nothing common or trifling in her appearance, but such as the daughter of a marshal of France should be. A pretty daughter was with her, who looked so young, I was surprised to hear her addressed Madame. She was pleased to compliment me on my Parisian accent, and gave me a gracious invitation to her soirees, of which I shall not be slow to profit.

Italian Legation comes next. Hotel of the Marquis de Biario. Sforza — high-sounding Milanese name. A pleasant, gentlemanly old man, three ladylike-looking daughters, perfectly English-looking; work, books, and music scattered about the room — a good many morning visitors, whose names I did not hear — amongst others, some young men of the French Legation, who have promised to show me the lions. We left cards at .the English Legation, which is close to the palace of the queen mother. His lordship is absent, but we afterwards met Mr. 0., the present charge d'affaires, a tall, fair, calm, good-looking type of the Anglo-Saxon race. We called at the Austrian Legation, who occupy part of an ancient building called " the House of the Seven Chimneys," at the corner of the Calle de las Ynfantas, now belonging to the Marquis of Somernelos, with a fine old garden, filled with