A Shilling Cookery for the People

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SHILLING COOKERY

FOR

THE PEOPLE:

EMBRACING}

AN ENTIRELY NEW SYSTEM OF PLAIN COOKERY, AND DOMESTIC ECONOMY.

BY

ALEXIS SOYER,

AUTHOR OF u THB MODERN HOUSEWIFE,”

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2Centfj ®fjousant>.

LONDON:

NEW YOKE: 18, BEEKMAN STREET.

{The Author of this work reserves the right of translating it.]

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TO THE BIGHT HONOURABLE

THE EARL OF SHAFTESBURY,

IT0. BTO. IT0.

My Lord,

The kind condescension which permits the dedication of this work to one of such eminent philanthropic sentiments as your Lordship, has a claim upon my most profound gratitude, and more than repays me for the time and study I have devoted to its production.

With the highest consideration,

I have the honour to be,

Your Lordship’s most humble and obedient servant,

ALEXIS SOYER.

Digitized by VjOOQlC

Preface

In the course of a long and laborious career, entirely de¬ voted, both in study and practice, to the preparation of the food of man in a manner most conducive to his health,—I have published two works on Modem Cookery, both of a different character, namely, * The Gastronomic Regenerator? adapted for the higher class of epicures; the second, for the easy middle class, under the title of the * Modem Housewife? The success of both I gratefully acknowledge as having far exceeded my expectations.

While actively employed, under the authority of government^ in a mission to Ireland, in the year of the famine, 1847, it struck me that my services would be more useful to the million than confining them, as I had hitherto done, to the wealthy few. I immediately set to work, but soon found out my error, that I was merely acquainted with the manners and ways of living of the above two classes of society, for whom I had previously catered.

Perceiving that it would be impossible to cure a disease with¬ out first arriving at its cause and origin, I found that the only course I had to pursue was to visit personally the abodes, and viii

PREFACE.

learn the manners of those to whom I was about to address myself, and thereby get acquainted with their wants.

My readers will easily perceive that, whilst semi-buried in my fashionable culinary sanctorum at the Reform Club, surrounded by the ilite of society, who daily honoured me with their visits in that lounge of good cheer, I could not gain, through the stone walls of that massive edifice, the slightest knowledge of Cottage life.

Determined to carry out my long thought of project, I cheer¬ fully bade adieu to my wealthy employers, leaving them in a most thriving condition, regretting only my fair visitors; and, like a joyful pilgrim of the olden time, I set forth on my journey, visiting on my route every kind of philanthropic and other use¬ ful institution, but more especially the domains of that indus¬ trial class, the backbone of every free country—the People,—to whom for the present I bid farewell, leaving them in the hands of ma chbre Hortense, who will relate to them, with her usual affability, the result of my visits through the United Kingdom.

• • • 0

Contents

TAQU

iKTBOnUOTION..

Letter . „ # ,

Introduction to Baking Stewpan a

Hints on the Pig

On Roasting . .

a

How to Roast a

On the Economy of Roasting by Gas. Note

•

Cottage Roasting

* ib.

Time-table for Roasting

On Meat in Baker’s Oven

A few Hints on Baking Meat .

An Improved Baking-dish.

ib.

A Series of Receipts on Baked Meats

•

•

Meat Pies

•

General Lesson on the Cooking of Vegetables

Plant called the Thousand Holds Goog

X

CONTESTS.

Eggs . . .

•

PAGE

Omelettes or Fiaise •

•

On Pastry

National French Cake, or Galette

Introduction to Sweet and Savoury Pies

Observations on Bottled Preserves

Stewed Fruits .

Sweet and Fruit Cakes

Bread ....

Sauces

Salads .

•

Mushrooms ib.

Pickles

A few Hints on Coffee, Tea, &c* ib.

Beverages

Series of New and Cheap Drinks

On Marketing .

ib.

Kitchen Requisites

On the Selection of Vegetables .

Boyer’s Aerial Cooking Stove .

• ib.

Visit to the Crystal Palace

•

IMPORTANT OBSERVATIONS.

First, most of the receipts, having been especially written for the various ordinary kitchen utensils, some of them may appear to the reader to be repetitions, which is not the case, as the same food may be used, yet each process will differ one from the other, from having been cooked in. a different manner.

Secondly, to obviate the reading of two or three receipts to be able to execute one, I have made each receipt in itself as complete as possible, as regards seasoning and proportion, and the few references I unavoidably make will, after a little practice, become familiar to my readers.

Many of the receipts may appear to you rather lengthy, but I want to draw your attention to the fact, that they are more than receipts—indeed, I may call them plain lessons, some containing a number of receipts in one.

In some cookery books many receipts are explained in few lines, which at first sight gives to the thing the appearance of simplicity ; but when acted on by the uninitiated are found totally impracticable.

By my plan my readers may read and prepare the contents of two or three lines at a time, so that when they get at the end of a lesson, their dish will be found well seasoned and properly cooked.

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INTRODUCTORY LETTERS.

Dear Eloise,

More than a year has now elapsed since I wrote to you, with a promise that I would send you such receipts as should be of use to the artisan, mechanic, and cottager. The time has, however, passed so quickly, that I was not aware of its hasty flight, until I took up the last edition of our “Housewife.” But still, dearest, I must say I have not lost any time; for you will find that my letters, which have conveyed my receipts from time to time, have been dated from almost every county in the United Kingdom.

In the course of my peregrinations, I have made a point of visiting the cottages and abodes of the industrious classes generally, and have also closely examined the pecu¬ liarities and manners which distinguish each county, as well as the different kinds of labour; and I have viewed with pleasure the exertions made by philanthropic indi¬ viduals to improve the morals of the labouring class, and render their dwellings more comfortable. But still I have found a great want of knowledge in that one object which produces almost as much comfort as all the rest put together, viz., the means of making the most of that food which the great Architect of the Heavens has so bountifully spread before us on th§ face of the globe.

INTRODUCTORY LETTERS.

Those who visit these humble abodes to inculcate the divine precepts of the Saviour of mankind, do but half the great work, unless they at the same time show how those things which the Almighty has created as food for man can be employed towards his nourishment.

In some of my letters, my dear friend, I think I have sent you a description of some scenes I witnessed in the course of my rambles, especially in Ireland, resulting from a want of knowledge, all of which bears a moral; and what a high feeling of delight and satisfaction it will be to us, should we find that the result of our labour is crowned with success, in ameliorating the conditions of these classes; for believe me, I was right when I stated that the morals of a people greatly depend on their food; and wherever the home of au individual, in whatever class of society he may move, is made comfortable and happy, the more moral and religious will that person be.

Dearest Hortens^

I highly approve of your plan; it is time that it was put into action. I am fearful that our friends, the public, to whom we promised, some four years since, a work like the present, will have become impatient; but they will be gainers by the delay, as by your visits to the various parts of the United Kingdom, you have obtained that insight into the domestic arrange¬ ments of the class of persons for whom it is intended, that could not be obtained by any other means,

UTTROPUCTORY LETTERS.

’ Your new plan of writing a series of receipts peculiarly adapted for such humble utensils as the gridiron, fryingpan, iron pan, and black pot, is at once original, and cannot fail of being very effective; for no matter how humble or poor the dwelling, one of those faithful servants are sure to be found at its post; and I do not doubt but tb&t, under your tuition, they will prove of greater value to the public at large than they hitherto have been.

If a person, after purchasing this work for a shilling, had to lay out five or six more in kitchen utensils before he could cook by it, it would be a great drawback on its worth; but by your happy and simple style, you have so successfully avoided all complicated matters in its pages, that nothing will be requisite but the aforesaid simple kitchen implements to bring it into action.

I also perceive, with pleasure,* that you have not pmitted the slightest article of cheap food of any descrip¬ tion, which, with the numerous receipts you give for dressing the same, must prove a great blessing to many, and only require to be introduced to the notice of the public to form a part of their daily diet.

It is to be regretted that men of science do not interest themselves more than they do on a subject of such vast magnitude as this; for I feel confident that the fobd of a country might be increased at least one-third, if the culinary science was properly developed, instead of its being slighted as it is now. I myself think it worthy the attention of a peer of the realm; for, as you justly observe, the morals of a country greatly depend on the

b 2

INTRODUCTORY LETTERS.

production and preparation of its food, and most heartily do I re-echo your sentiments.

My dearest Friend,

You are right. Cookery, in our era, has been thought beneath the attention of men of science; and yet, was there ever a political, commercial, or even a domestic event, but what always has been, and always will be, celebrated either by a banquet or a dinner? And pray, who is answerable for the comfort and conviviality of the guests of such festivals but the cook, who has been in¬ trusted with such important duties ? The selection of good and proper beverages will, of course, greatly assist the cook’s endeavours; but these may be purchased months, or even years, before you require them, which would of course give you an ample chance of remedying any error; While a dinner is the creation of a day and the success of a moment. Therefore you will perceive that nothing more disposes the heart to amicable feeling and friendly trans¬ actions, than a dinner well conceived and artistically prepared.

In ancient times, a cook, especially if a man, was looked upon as a distinguished member of society; while now he is, in the opinion of almost every one, a mere menial.

Still there are a few who highly appreciate the know¬ ledge he possesses, especially in the higher circles, who have classified cookery as a high art. For example, let see what one of the greatest chemists of the day

INTRODUCTORY LETTERS.

(Liebig) says on this imperishable subject, in his valuable work, “ The Chemistry of Food,” that

“ Among all the arts known to man there is none which enjoys a juster appreciation, and the products of which are more universally admired, than that which is concerned in the pre¬ paration of our food. Led by an instinct, which has almost reached the dignity of conscious knowledge, as the unerring guide, and by the sense of taste, which protects the health, the experienced cook, with respect to the choice, the admixture, and the preparation of food, has made acquisitions surpassing all that chemical and physiological science have done in regard to the doctrine or theory of nutrition. In soup and meat sauces, he imitates the gastric juice; and by the cheese which closes the banquet, he assists the action of the dissolved epithelium of the stomach. The table, supplied with dishes, appears to the observer like a machine, the parts of which are harmoniously fitted together, and so arranged that, when brought into action, a maximum of effect may be obtained by the theory of them. The able culinary artist accompanies the sanguineous matter with those which promote the process of solution and sanguifi¬ cation, in due proportion; he avoids all kinds of unnecessary stimuli, such as do not act in restoring the equilibrium; and he provides the due nourishment for the child or the weak old man, as well as for the strong of both sexes.”

Such is the high eulogium paid to culinary science by that learned man; and perhaps there is no one more able of appreciating its value than him. Therefore I do not yet despair of seeing the day when that science, like others, will have its qualified professors. I now close our labours for the present, and wait with anxiety the first proof, which on receiving I will immediately correct and forward to you.

COOKERY FOR THE PEOPLE.

SOUPS, IN IRON SAUCEPAN,

OR STEWPAN.

SIMPLlFtEt) STOCK FOR SOUPS, GRAVIES, AND PLAIN SAUCES.

Eloibe,— Perhaps you are not aware of the reason why the great majority of people in this country are opposed to, and even accused of not liking, soup; the simple reason is, that every receipt described in most Cookery Books, is so complicated and expensive, that they cannot afford either the money, time, or attention, to prepare it. I will therefore endeavour, in this little book, to obviate that difficulty, by simplifying the receipts, and reduce it to a system alike quick, nutritious, wholesome, and economical; and thus soup may form a part of the daily fare of every dinner table.

Please pay particular attention to the following receipt, for when you are perfect in it, and can make it quick and well, almost every sort of soup can be made from it, and it will often be referred to in different sauces and dishes.

1. Stock for Clear Soup . First Lesson .—Cut two pounds bf knuckle or scrag of veal into small pieces, place them in the iron pot or stewpan, with two ounces of salt butter or dripping, two ounces of lean bacon cut small, three teaspoonfuls of salt, half a spoonful of pepper, a gill of water, three middle-sized, or six ounces of, onions sliced. Put on the fire; when boiling, stir round with a spoon for about ten minutes, or until it forms a whitish thick gravy at the bottom, or gets rather dry, then add five pints of hot or cold water; when boiling, let it simmer gently for three quarters of an hour, skim it well, pass it through a sieve, and it will be found clear and ready for use for the following soups. Only one third of this quantity need be made.

SOUPS.

In case bacon or ham cannot be obtained, use half a pound more meat and a little more salt.

The meat not being overstewed, will be found excellent eaten plain, or with parsley and butter, or any sauce.

2. Second Lesson .— Proceed exactly as "No. I. Add two cloves and about two ounces of carrot, and the same of turnip, leeks, celery, or a quarter of a pound of one of them, if you cannot get the variety. To add more zest to the flavour, add the smallest quantity of thyme, winter savory, or a bay leaf. You are, no doubt, aware that at present, in most market towns, an assorted lot of vegetables may be obtained at one penny per plate, and sometimes at one halfpenny. This second lesson is very important, as it gives you the key whereby you may vary the flavour of every kind of soup.

Note. This broth is of a nice white colour, and should it be required to look like sherry wine, add sufficient colouring, (see No. 462), or half a burnt onion when it is making: these in most large cities are now becoming common, and may be procured at the grocers, at the cost of eightpence the pound. They will go a great way, and if kept in a dry place will last for years.

3. Brown Gravies .—The following is very good for brown sauce, and also for every kind of roast meat, game, or poultry; and a gill of it ma} r be used to give a colour to any kind of broth, instead of colouring or burnt onions. As there is a little difficulty to make it properly, it should only be done on particular occasions.

Grease the bottom of the pot with about two ounces of fat, butter, or dripping; cut four onions in thick slices crossways, lay them on the bottom, and place over them three pounds of leg or shin of beef, or clod and sticking; cut it slantway in pieces, chop the bone, then add two teaspoonfuls of salt, half a spoonful of pepper; set it on the fire until it begins to hiss, which indicates that all the moisture is dispersed; reduce the heat of the fire by throwing ashes on the top; put on the pan with the cover over. Let the onions stew until quite brown, but not burnt, and the fat is as clear as oil, which you will easily perceive by holding the pan or pot on one side, the contents of which will be smoking hot, and stick to the bottom, though not burning; immediately add five pints of cold water; when boiling, skim and simmer one hour; pass through the sieve, and put by till

SOUPS.

wanted. It will keep for many days in winter, and also in summer, by boiling it every other day, with the addition of half a gill of water added to it now and then.

4. Lesson No, 2.—The remains of roast or boiled meats, game, poultry, &c., may be added, cut up, and the bones broken, using only half the quantity of meat. The meat may be taken out and served separate, with a mustard or any sharp sauce.

The addition of cloves (say four), a little mace, carrots, turnips, and celery, and a few sweet herbs, will vary the flavour of the gravy.

6. Clear Vegetable Sotvp, Lesson No, 1.—Cut in small dice, two-thirds of carrots and turnips, and one-third of onions, leeks, and celery, altogether about half a pound; wash them well, drain, put into pan or iron pot, two ounces of butter or dripping, and a teaspoonful of sugar; put on the Are, stir often; when no moisture is to be seen add three pints of broth No. 1, simmer and skim, until the carrots are tender, and serve. If all the above vege¬ tables cannot be obtained at the same time, use the same weight of either. Be careful that you remove the fat from all clear soup. All clear vegetable soup, when done, ought to partake of a brownish colour.

6. Lesson No. 2.—The addition of a few green peas, when in season, also small pieces of brocoli, a cauliflower, or a few Brussels sprouts, previously boiled, makes an improvement in the above. A little chervil and tarragon render it both pleasant and refreshing.

7. Clear Turnip, Lesson No, 3.—Peel and cut in large dice half a pound of turnips, put in pan with butter or fat, and a little sugar; proceed as above, Lesson No. 1, add the broth, simmer, skim, and serve. It will not require so long doing as No. 1. Give it a nice brown colour. If turnips are either streaky or spongy, they will not do.

8. Jerusalem Artichokes, —Wash, peel, cut in dice, and fry as above; when nothing but the clear fat is seen in the pan, and they are sufficiently done, add the broth. A few minutes will cook them.

9. Carrot Soup. —For carrots proceed as above, and simmer till tender; they take twice as long as the artichokes doing.

lo

SOUPS.

10. Vermicelli and Macaroni. —Pray, Eloise, why should not the workman and mechanic partake of these wholesome and nu¬ tritious articles of food, which have now, in consequence of those restrictive laws on provisions having been repealed, become so plentiful and cheap P It only requires to know how to cook them, in order that they should become as favourite a food in these northern climes, as they are in the southern.* Boil three pints of the broth No. 1, break into it a quarter of a pound of vermicelli or macaroni; boil till tender* and serve. Macaroni takes twice as long as vermicelli doing.

Or, the macaroni can be boiled separate, and kept in salt and water for some days, and used as required for soups and made dishes.

11. Hice. —Wash well two ounces of common Bengal rice; boil it gently in three pints of broth; When tender, serve.

12. Tapioca and Semolina. —In case of illness, two ounces of tapioca or semolina may be used instead.

13. White Soup tcith Meat.—'Whm the broth No. 1 is done, skim off the fat, put the meat in the tureen, then put into a basin two ounces of flour, mix gently with half a pint of milk, a half teaspoonful of salt, and a quarter ditto of pepper; add to the broth by degrees; boil it ten minutes, and keep stirring; skim and serve with the meat. Fried or toasted bread cut in dice may be added.

14. Good White Mock Turtle Soup may be easily and cheaply made thus:—Purchase a calf’s head; if large, use one half for a day’s dinner; cook as Receipt No. 87; take the remains of that, if any, with the other half, and remove the bone; cut the iheat into square pieces; add it in proportion of one pound of meat to every four quarts of broth of No. 1; mix some flour and milk, as above, and add it to it, and half a teaspoonful of cayenne pepper, and four cloves; let it simmer on the fire for OUe hour, tie up six sprigs of savory, same of thyme, which put into the soup, and remove when serving. The juice of half a lemon is an improvement, just before serving, as well as a drop of

* Macaroni is how selling in London at fivepence pet pound, and makes four pounds of food when boiled, as No. 463.

80UTS.

wine, if handy. If required brown, add three tablespoonfuls of colouring; and use water or broth- for thickening, instead of milk. The water in which the calf s head is boiled may be kept, and added to the stock. This soup will keep for a long time if boiled occasionally, and a little water added; it should never be covered, or fermentation will commence; it should be occasionally stirred -until cold. Strong stocks are more likely to turn sour than thin ones, more particularly if they have vegetables and flour in them; to prevent which, when this soup is kept in a basin, leave the mouth exposed to the air.

15. Cow-Keel. —Another very cheap and nutritious soup may be made by an ox-foot or cow-heel; having bought them cleaned and partly boiled, stew them till tender, remove the meat from the bone, cut them into nice pieces, and proceed as for mockturtle.

16. White Soup , with Vegetables, Having cut and fried

the same quantity of vegetables as No. 1, add them to the white Soup, free from meat as No. 13; simmer and skim off the fat. Two ounces of vermicelli, macaroni, rice, &c., previously boiled, can be Used ih the same way.

17. Pur4e> or Thick Vegetable Soups.—Green Pea .—Put a quart of large green peas, when cheap, in the pot or pan, with two ounces of butter or fat, and the same of lean bacon cut small, a middling-sized onion, little mint, two teaspoonfuls of salt, one of sugar, half the same of pepper, a gill bf water; set on slow fire, stir now and then, or until no more moisture remains onthe bottom of the pan; add two or three tablespoonfuls of flour, stir round quick, and break the peas against the side of the pan with a wooden spoon; moisten with a quart of milk and a quart of water, simmer twenty minutes, or more if old peas, and serve.

This, by leaving Out the bacon, becomes Meagre Soup . Fried bread, in small dice, is a good accompaniment.

If you have any broth (No. 1), use it instead of the milk and water.

By passing the peas through a hair sieve, which is done by breaking and pressing them with the back of the spoon, an inviting purde is produced; after which warm up, and serve.

• 18. Pumpkin Soup is a vary favourite dish in many parts o soups.

France, especially with the juveniles; and when in season, there is not a school, college, hospital, convent, or monastery, where it is not made; a proof that it must he very wholesome. In this country, whose climate will not allow its arriving at the same size as on the Continent, the Vegetable Marrow , the American Butter Squash , and the Mammoth Gourd ', will replace them.

Cut about two pounds of the flesh of the pumpkin or gourd into large dice, put it into your pan, with three ounces of salt butter or fat; add two teaspoonfuls of salt, the same of sugar, a little pepper, and half a pint of water; set on the fire, and stew gently for twenty minutes. When in pulp, add two table¬ spoonfuls of flour, stir round, and moisten with three pints of either milk, skim-milk, or water, boil ten minutes longer, and. serve with fried or toasted bread, cut in dice.

19. Meagre Soups. —This soup is on the list of meagre soups, a word used by the Catholics for dishes partaken of in Lent, but which is not understood in England; the word having the meaning, want of strength. But this soup, and many others in the same category, are well worthy the attention of the middle classes of this country, it being only meagre in name, and not in fact, as it possesses a large quantity of farinaceous matter; bread being also served with it.

20. Vegetable Marrow. —Peel, and take out the inside, if Beeded, cut in slices about two pounds; put in saucepan on the fire, with a quarter of a pound of butter or fat; add two tea¬ spoonfuls of salt, one of sugar, and one quarter of the same of pepper, a gill of water, and one onion sliced; stew gently until in pulp, then add two tablespoonfuls of flour, and proceed as for pumpkin soup.

21. Turnip Soup . — Use two and a half pounds of good turnips, and proceed as above.

22. Bed Carrot Soup. —Scrape gently, and cut in very thin slices two pounds of carrots; put them in the saucepan or pot with two onions sliced, two ounces of ham cut small, two cloves, a little thyme, salt, pepper, sugar, as above, half a pint of water, simmer gently forty minutes, then add three tablespoonfuls of flour, and two quarts of broth (No. 1), or use milk, or even water.

It is much better passed through a hair sieve, after which warm up again and serve.

White Carrot .—Proceed as for the red.

The Swede , Parsnip , Bed and White Beet —Proceed as for carrot.

23. New Spring and Autumn Soup. —A most refreshing and exquisite soup. At the end of the London season, when the markets are full of everything, and few to partake of them, this soup can be made as a bonne bouche:—