Argentina past and present,

Preface

Probably the best excuse for a second edition is that the first has been sold out. If so, this may be alleged with justice as an explanation in the present case. Another reason, equally potent, is that the production of this new edition makes possible the inclusion of the coloured illustrations by Mr. Christmas : additions much welcomed by the author, since they cannot fail to serve as an invaluable aid to the text.

In a country of such rapid progress as Argentina that which holds good for to-day seldom applies to to-morrow. Therefore, although the first edition is a very few years old, a certain number of alterations has been found necessary in order to bring the book up to date.

W. H. KOEBEL.

b

Chapter I

Argentina and the Promise of the New World — The Visions of the Conquistador — Discovery and its Commercial Aspects — The River Plate and the Shadow of the Mine Lands — Status of the Province — Situation at the Time of Argentina’s Discovery —

The Voyage of Amerigo Vespucci — Juan Diaz de Solis Sails up the La Plata River — Death of Solis at the Hands of Indians— Return of the Expedition — Visit of Magellanes — Expeditions of Diego Garcia and Sebastian Cabot — Cabot’s Feats of Exploration—An Attempted Settlement — The Pioneer’s Reception in Spain — A Portuguese Venture — Pedro de Mendoza, First Governor of the River Plate — His Fleet and Equipment — A Disastrous Voyage — First Settlement at Buenos Aires — -Theories concerning the Origin of the Name — Vicissitudes of the Colony — Hostility of the Indians — Death of Pedro de Mendoza . . 1-12

Chapter II

Juan de Ayolas — His Northward Voyage — Founding of Asuncion — Ayolas makes for Peru — The Trust of Domingo Martinez de Irala — Francisco Ruiz Galan — His Ambition and Methods —

The Struggle for Governorship — Irala’s Loyalty — The Cost of Intrigue — Death of Ayolas — Irala becomes Governor — Abandonment of Buenos Aires — Alvar Nunez Cabeza de Vaca takes over the Rule— Discontent and Revolt — Reappointment of Irala —

A Firm Governor — Disciplinary Measures applied to Malcontents— Irala’s Office confirmed by the King of Spain — Some Characteristics of a Great Conquistador ..... 13-23

Chapter III The Foundation Of Buenos Aires

Francisco Ortiz de Vergara — Intrigues during his Governorship—

The Ambition of Nuflo de Chaves — He founds a New State—

A Bold Plot— Vergara Imprisoned — Various Claimants to Power

b 2 viii in Paraguay — The Success of Ortiz de Zarate— His Voyage to Spain — Felipe de Caceres Temporary Ruler — Nuflo de Chaves sets a Second Trap — Death of Nuflo de Chaves — Struggle between Church and State — Caceres sent as Prisoner to Spain — Return of Zdrate — His Rescue from the Indians by Juan de Garay — Death of Zarate — Mendieta’s Fate — Garay made Governor of Paraguay — A Notable Ruler — Foundation of the City of Buenos Aires— Some Historical Names . . . 24-35

Chapter V Argentina Of To-day

Progress of the Country — Recent Development — Condition of the ' Camp ’ — Land Values — Agricultural Strides — Stability of the Country— Prospects of the Future — A Study of Influences — The Forces of Climate, Commerce, and Politics — Argentine Government — Some Suppositions and Facts — Law and Order — The Prosperity of the People — Opportunities of Advancement — The Capitalist and the Land — Ownership of the Soil — Old-standing Colonisation — Estates and their Magnitude — Argentina’s Liberty — A Fortunate Land — Some Ethics of Colonisation — The Attitude of the Resident Foreigner — Prompt Patriotism 43-61

Chapter VI The Argentine At Home

Some Argentine Characteristics — Physique — Predilection for Sport — Culture — Society and Hospitality — Argentine Ladies — Matters of Costume, Manners, and Morality — Accomplishments in Relation to Moderation — Social Strata — Absence of a Racial Question — The Argentine Army — Qualities of the Troops — Gallic Sympathies of the Nation — The French Fleet and Buenos Aires .......... 62-71

Chapter VII The Magnet Of Labour

Varieties of Immigrant — Europe as a Feeding Ground — The Italian — Importance of the Influx — The Neapolitan compared with the Northerner — Italian Trade and Industry — Success of the Farmer — Thrift and its Reward — The Spaniard— His Occupations— Enterprising Harvesters — The Basque and his Dairy — English, French, and Germans — The Russian as a Newcomer — His Peculiarities and Status — Austrians and Scandinavians — ix

PAGES

The Ubiquitous Turk— A Strenuous Pedlar — His Journeys by Land and River — Relations of the Turk with his Competitors — A Local Opinion ........ 72-85

Chapter VIII The British Emigrant In Argentina

Argentina as a Capitalist Country — Chances of the Agriculturist and Artisan — Dangers of a Leap into the Dark — A Comparison with the Italian — Advantages enjoyed by the Southerner — Some Tragic Instances of Failure — The Fate of the Demoralised — Penalties of Ignorance — The Chances of the Small Farmer — British Settlements — The Case against Manual Labour — Opportunities for the Specialist — The Commercial Clerk — Necessary Qualifications — A Country of Chances — Status of the Clerk—

From Hired to Hirer — Life in the ‘ Camp ’ — The Mayor domo and his Juniors — Ways and Means — Questions of Remuneration - — Duties and Relations with the Gaucho — Recreations— Attributes of the ‘ Outer Camp ’ — Promotion and Managership — The Top of the Tree ....... 86-106

Chapter IX

Original Domestic Animals of the Plains — The Conquistadores as Pastoralists — Regulations affecting the Grants of Land- Advent of the Horse — Situation at the Abandonment of Buenos Aires — Introduction of Sheep and Goats — The Expedition of Nuflo de Chaves — Arrival of Cattle from Brazil — Ocean Transport in the Sixteenth Century — The Peonia and Caballeria — Refounding of Buenos Aires — How the Forsaken Horses had Fared — Increase of the Cattle — Questions of Live-stock Ownership— Branding — Its Uses and Abuses — ‘ Cattle-lifting ’ and its Punishment ........ 107-118

CHAPTER X THE STORY OF THE PASTURES {continued)

The Temptations of Abundance — Paternal Legislation — An Old-time Cattle Hunt — Wild Scenes — A Merciless Quest of Hide —

The Jaguar and the Unconsidered Feasts — Effects of Prodigality upon the Dogs — Cattle as Defenders of the Soil — Some Enemies of the Herds — The Mataperros — Marauding Indians — Local Volunteers — Fate of Native Animals — Mule-breeding — Slighted Sheep — A Seventeenth-century Trading Expedition . 119-131

Chapter XI

the story of the pastures ( continued )

Some Questions of Ways and Means — Results of Spain’s Colonial Attitude — Argentina’s Promotion to a Viceroyalty — Consequent Impetus to Industry — Improved Methods of Meat-curing —

X

Successful Agriculture as an Incentive to Freedom — Encouragement of Commerce by the Independent Government — First Strides in Sheep-breeding — Importation of Merinos — Southdowns — General Progress and Practical Improvements — The Evolution of the Corral — Introduction of Wire Fencing — Shorthorn and Hereford Cattle — Leicester and Lincoln Sheep — The Sociedad Rural A rgentina — Its Organisation and Work — General Review of Live-stock History — Present Conditions . . 132-141

* CHAPTER XII

Transformation of the Capital — Its Present Status — A Lively Town — Some Topographical Features — Notable Parks and Buildings — The New House of Congress — The Edifice and its Environment — Electoral Procedure — Restaurants and Hotels — Recent Enterprise — The Teatro Colon — The Avenida de Mayo — La Prensa and its Offices — Argentine Journalism — The Nacion, Argentino, and Diario — The Avenida Alvear — A Magnificent Thoroughfare — -The Recoleta — The Home of the Famous Dead — Aspect of the Streets of Tombs .... 1 42-151

CHAPTER XIII buenos aires {continued)

Scene at the Docks — The Emigrant Ship — Imperturbable Police — Cosmopolitan and Polyglot Arrivals — Pursuits of Emigrants on Landing — Getting Nationalised — The Cochero —

The Incorrigible Jehu — Traffic — Streets — Buenos Aires, Old and New — The Patio Gives Way to the Lift — Skyscrapers —

Town Planning — A Gilbertian Method of Increasing the Value of Property — Calle Florida — Jockey Club — An Imposing Building — Some Humbler Citizens — Live-stock and Land — The Tattersalls of Buenos Aires — Pedigree Animals of all Kinds —

A Land Auction — La Prensa — A Magnificently Housed Journal — Regal Republicanism — Progressive and Patriotic Pride — A Comprehensive Capital — Aeroplanes and Woman Suffrage — An Intelligent Police Force — Outwitted Motorists — Buenos Aires, the SecondLatin City of the World — The Magnet of the South 152-166

CHAPTER XIV buenos aires {continued)

Some Traffic Difficulties — The Coming of the ‘ Tube ’ — Tramway System — The Motor-cab and its Driver — Daring of the Chauffeur — Philosophic Cabmen — The Cochero and his Views — Original Workings of Vehicular Tariff — Some Points of Law and Driving — Palermo Race-course — The Grand Stands — General Aspects xi of the Course — The Queen of Race-grounds — The Jockey Club —

A Magnificent Institution — Some Unique Features of the Building — English Clubs — Hurlingham — A Comprehensive Contest — The Tigre River — Regattas — Their Popularity — Cosmopolitan Racing — The Dia de Moda — Its Exigencies —

The Zoological Gardens ...... 167-182

CHAPTER XV

BUENOS AIRES AS AN INDUSTRIAL CENTRE

Commercial Influences of the Capital— The Evidence of Industries — International and Local Commerce — Various Branches of Trade — The Mataderos — Scenes at the Killing Centre — Aspect of the Yards — A Cattle Auction — Methods of Sale — Chilled and Frozen Meat — Past and Present Importance of the Industry — Science as Applied to Trade — Improvements Effected — The Milk Supply of the Capital — Itinerant Cows — The Manufacture of Bags — Assiduous Work-people . 183-191

CHAPTER XVI SOME IMPORTANT CITIES

La Plata — Vicissitudes of the Town — Return of Prosperity — A Magnificently Planned City — Rosario — An Important Grain Centre — Urban Improvements — General Progress of Provincial Towns — Cordoba — A University City — The National Observatory— Surroundings of the Town — The Sierra de Cordoba — An Argentine Switzerland — Some Mountain Resorts — Climate of the Range — Mendoza — A Pleasant City — Irrigation of the District — Fruit, Wine, and Poplar Industries — Mar del Plata — A Fashionable Seaside Resort — A Brilliant Season — Aspects of the Spot ....... 192-200

CHAPTER XVII THE CAMPO

Aspect of the Agricultural Land — The ‘ Camp ’ as a Maker of Men — Extent of the Central Plains — Vegetation and Creatures of the Land — -Estancia Life — Magnitude of Estates — Quality of the Live-stock — The Rural Society — Farming and Patriotism —

Some Prominent Landowners— Mr. Miguel Alfredo Martinez de Hoz— A Famous Estanciero — Chapadmalal — A Wonderful Estate — La Germania — La Independencia — Cattle and Sheep — Distribution of Breeds — Horses — Mules — Pigs — Modernism and the Campo — The Gaucho — Temperament and the Times —

The Power of the Law — Qualities and Endurance of the Gaucho — His Feats as Stockrider — As Doctor — The Treatment of Human and Animal Ills — Some Quaint Remedies and Superstitions ......... 201— 219 xii

CHAPTER XVIII SOME CAMPO FEATURES

An Episode at the Plaza Hotel — The Daring of the Locust — Its Habits — Popular Exaggeration of the Insect’s Possibilities —

The Trail of the Destroyer— Some Aspects of a Visitation — Egg-laying — The Saltona — Methods of Destruction — Voladores —

Pest Cycles — The Thistle — Benefits of the Plant — The Horse as a Connoisseur of the Growth — Methods of Feeding — The UHa de Diablo — A Curious Plant — Climate of Central Provinces — ‘ Camp ’ Storms — Rainfall and the Plains — -Agriculture as a Preventative of Floods — Peculiarities of the Parand and Uruguay Rivers — Sugar ........ 220-234

CHAPTER XIX A SHEARING SKETCH

The Advent of the Sheep — Aspects of the Galpon — Methods of Working — Machine Shearing — Capabilities of the Workers —

A Varied Gathering— Crude Sleeping Places — The Mid-day Meal — A Great Asado— Some Questions of Consumption upon an Estancia — The Butcher’s Bill— Diet of the Gaucho . 235-243

CHAPTER XX

BAHIA BLANCA AND ITS SURROUNDINGS

The Plaza Constitucion — Ethics of the Great Southern Railway — Suburban Aspects — The Serra de Ventana — Picturesque Mountains — An Ideal Sheep Country — Hares — Southern

Characteristics — Curious Tablelands — Tamarisk and Oak —

Some Aspects of the Land — Huge Grain Elevators — Bahia Blanca— Appearance and Growth of the Town — Population- Importance as a Mercantile Centre — The Promise of the Future — Hotel Sud Americano — The English Club — Tramway Service 244-254

CHAPTER XXI

BAHIA BLANCA AND ITS SURROUNDINGS ( continued )

First Beginnings of the Town — Wind and Dust — The Port — The Liverpool of Argentina — Land and its Values — Fortunate Investments — The Puerto Militar — Benefits of Tamarisk — -A Sheltering Vegetation — The Official Town — Argentine War-vessels and their Crews — Training of the Sailors — Accommodation of the Officers — The Hospital and Jefetura — Panorama of the Naval Port — The Inevitable Dreadnoughts . . 255-264 xiii

CHAPTER XXII

BAHIA BLANCA AND ITS SURROUNDINGS ( continued )

PAGES

Don Juan Antonio Argerich — His Work and Attainments — The Argerich Estancias — ‘ La Gleba ’ — A Vast Experiment in Horticulture — System of Irrigation — Variety of Growths — The Meetings of Flora from all Continents — A Centre of Science — Chicken-farming— La Fina — Sainfoin — Nature, Crude and Cultivated — A Reminiscence of Darwin— The Past and the Present — Salitrales — A Strange Phenomenon — The Sombra de Toro — Gauchos on the Move — The Lights of Bahia Blanca 265-278

CHAPTER XXIII TO THE NORTH BY STREAM

The Darsena Sud — Scene at the Docks — The San Martin — An Incident at the Start — Aspects of the La Plata River — Cosmopolitan Passengers — Some Knights-errant of Labour — The Fires of the Campo — Rosario — Flies as Food for Chickens — Mirage — A Stranded Craft ...... 279-291

CHAPTER XXIV

English Missionaries — Some Peculiarities of the Parana — A River of Moods — Diamante — The City of Parana — Riparian Scenes — Delusions of the Stream — The Task of the Conquistador es — ■

Santa Elena — Some Evidences of the North — Native Anglers —

La Paz — The Kingfisher and his Methods — A Storm on the River — Some Effects of Wind and Waves . . . 292-303

CHAPTER XXV

Minor Ports — Their Commerce and Officialdom — The Corrientino —

The Forest and its Aisles — Sylvan Stock-riding — Cliffs and their Architecture — An Indian Move — Household Goods upon the Waters — Bella Vista — Its Orange Industry — Growing Exuberance of the Verdure — Scenes on the Shore — Bird Life —

At Close Quarters with the Bank ..... 304-314

CHAPTER XXVI

In the Quebracho Country — Piraguacito — A Motley Settlement — - The Fight with the Waters — Loading Tannin — Methods of the

XIV

Porters — The Amusement of Labour — Native Canoes — Corrientes — An Important River Junction — Woman and the Weed — A Baptism of Fire — The Threshold of the Tropics — Forest Dwellings — Las Palmas — A Family Encampment —

The Coming of the Crocodile — His Character as Target — Bougainvillea and Diego de Noche — A Gigantic Flower — Variety in Passengers — Travelling Sociability — The Unwisdom of the Immigrant ......... 315-329

CHAPTER XXVII

The Paraguay River — An Idyll of the Creeks — The Carpincho — - Humaytd — The First Paraguayan Port — A Relic of the War of 1865-70 — The Tyrant Lopez — Incidents of the Struggle — •

The Discipline of Death — Subtropical Flowers and Fruits —

The River Bermejo — -Its Turbulent Propensities — Fluvial Transformations — Navigation and its Difficulties — Formosa — Nocturnal Insect Life — Drowning Fire — The Song of the Frogs — The Apparition of the Boulder — A Pioneer Mountain — Asuncion — Appearance of the Port — The Battleships of Three Nations — The Libertad — An Incident at the Journey’s End 330-348

CHAPTER XXVIII THE CHACO

A Contrast of Northern and Southern Ethics — Geography of the District — Some Physical Aspects — Warlike Indians — Native Customs and Weapons — Points of Resemblance between all American Tribes — Conscientious Scalping — Matters of Costume — A Relic of the Incas — Indian Life and Habits — Past Restrictions and Present Enterprise — Labour and its Reward — The Quebracho Industry — The Forestal Company — The Algarrobo Tree — Its Provision of Fodder and Beverage — The Caraguata — Tobacco— Peculiarities of Soil — Strange Fish — Chaco Exploration— A New River and the Boundary Question— A Lost Tribe — Some Beasts of the Land — A Tumultuous Tapir — Animal Life 349-367

CHAPTER XXIX ACROSS THE ANDES

From Atlantic to Pacific — Aspects of the Land of Peaks — Overwhelming Landscape — The Journey as it was — The Passage of the Cumbre — Various Types of Travellers — Mental Effects of Mountaineering — Mules and their Quality — An Andes Sketch — The Complete Traveller ...... 368-376 xv

CHAPTER XXX THE PASSAGE OF THE PARANA

PAGES

Some Characteristics of Entre Rios — Past Isolation of the Province — The Entreriano — His Temperament — Mythical and Actual —

The Present Link with Buenos Aires — The Introduction of the Ferry-boats — Trains as Passengers — The Route along the River — Scene at Night — Dining under Amphibious Conditions — Ibicuy — The Resumption of Wheeled Progress— The ‘ Camp ’ at Dawn — An Early Drive across the Pastures . . 377-384

CHAPTER XXXI AN ENTRE RIOS ESTANCIA

Las Cabezas — Area of the Estate — Cattle and Sheep Carried — A Noted Estancia — Spring in Entre Rios — Some Pleasant Features — A Drive through the Campo — Scenes upon the Road — A Youthful Horseman — The Heron and Teru-Tero — The Crosses of the Campo — An Iguana and its Fate — An Unusual Country-side Object — Tacamares — The Deepening of the Pools — A Wild Scene — Bird Life in the Neighbourhood of the Tacamares ......... 385-396

CHAPTER XXXII

The Manipulation of ' Camp ’ Roads — The Passage of the Thistles —

Some Trials of Horseflesh— River and Monte — A Drive of Incident— Vegetation and Bird Life — The Nests of the Oven Bird —

Some Swamp Flowers — El Albardon — A Fine Estancia — The Opportunity of the Mosquito — Evening in the Campo — The Appearance of the Vizcacha — The Gaucho Outrider — A Tireless Attendant — The Perfume of the Paraiso — A Pleasant Homestead— The Mascot of Las Cabezas — Henry Darbyshire — A Well-known Estanciero — His Experiences as a Pioneer — An Encounter with the Indians and its Result — The Contrast of the Past with the Present — A Personal Reference . . 397-41 1

CHAPTER XXXIII THROUGH ENTRE RIOS

Parana — The Capital of the Province — Buildings, Avenues, and Gardens of the Town — A Centre of Government and Education— Police Bands — A Favourite Promenade — The La Perla Theatre — Spanish Drama — Some Features of the Art — -The Commercial Port — Bajada Grande — Some Industries of the District — Railway Workshops — Native Timber and its Uses — • From Parana to the East — Aspects of the Landscape — Locusts

XVI by the Way — The Main Rivers and Inland Wells — Nogoya — Aspect of the Monte — A Parlc-like Scene— Tala — Native and Imported Vegetation — The Gualeguay River — A Fine National Road .......... 412-424

CHAPTER XXXIV through entre Rios ( continued )

Basavilbaso — Growth of the Town — An Important Railway Junction — A Cosmopolitan Gathering — The Jewish Colony — Some Aspects of the Settlement — The Work of the Hebrew Agriculturalist— Urquiza — Dominguez — The River Yuqueri — An Idyllic Spot — A Sudden Change of Landscape — The Entrance to Palm Land — Concordia — An Important Commercial Town — Variation in Soil — Water Selling — Local Fruit Industry — The River Port—

The Sport of the Floods — Aspects of the Uruguay River — The Argentine and Uruguayan Banks — Waterfalls — The Port of Uruguay — General Plan of Provincial Towns — Minor Hotels — - Their Peculiarities — Colon — The Lemco Industry — Its Headquarters and Ramifications — A Vast Enterprise — Some Ethics of Landowning ........ 425-442

CHAPTER XXXV RAILWAYS AND SHIPPING

British Enterprise and its Management — The Great Southern — An Imposing Line — Area Served — Development of the Company — Ports of the Railway — The Buenos Aires and Pacific — The Transandine Route — Benefits accruing from the New Line — Eastern and Western Freights — The Central Argentine — A Comprehensive Service — The Buenos Aires Western — The Cdrdoba Central ; Cordoba and Rosario ; Midland, and Buenos Aires Central — The Entre Rios Railways — Ramifications of the Company — New Era of the Province — The Argentine North-Eastern — Description of the Company’s System — The Road to Paraguay — Ports and Places of Interest — Shipping Companies— The Royal Mail — Methods of the Premier Line — Enterprise and its Reward — Many-sided Stewards — An Enter-

ILLUSTRATIONS

Illustrations marked thus * are in colour.

TO FACE PAGE

*THE STATUE OF CHRIST ON THE ARGENTINE-CHILEAN FRONTIER :

sunrise ....... Frontispiece

♦ascending LAS CUEVAS PASS 8

♦moquhue lake .16

*A MOONLIGHT NIGHT IN CENTRAL ARGENTINA ... 24

A HAUL OF FISH ON THE LA PLATA RIVER . . . -33

ANDINE SCENERY ■ • • 39

*LOS PENITENTES ......... 40

SNOW PLOUGH AT WORK IN THE CORDILLERAS ... 42

A WINTER SCENE 48

CARTING IN MISIONES 48

*A PAISANO’S HUT ON THE CHILEAN FRONTIER ... 56

GOING TO SCHOOL 65

READY FOR THE ROAD ........ 65

FISHING BOATS : MAR DEL PLATA . . . . . 7 1

♦sunny hours : mar del plata 72

CATTLE DRINKING 74

LA PERLA BAY : MAR DEL PLATA 80

♦SIERRA NAVARRO, FROM HOTEL PUENTE DEL INCA . . 88

♦LAKE ALUMENI DISTRICT : RAPIDS NEAR MOQUHUE . . 96

♦the flats lying between the plateau heights, southern

AT THE EDGE OF THE POOL . . . . . . . 113

A HERD AT NOONDAY . . . . . . II3

A ROCKY POOL IN THE CORDOBA HILLS 128.

xviii ILLUSTRATIONS

TO FACE PAGE

CATTLE PUNCHING I3I

*A TYPICAL SOUTH ARGENTINE GAUCHO GIRL SEATED ON HER

CABALLO 136

BUENOS AIRES : ASPECT OF RIVER FRONT PREVIOUS TO THE

CONSTRUCTION OF DOCKS . . . . . 1 42

*MULE TEAM LEAVING PUENTE DEL INCA . . . . 1 44

BUENOS AIRES : THE RECOLETA I47

BUENOS AIRES : PLAZA DE MAYO I49

BUENOS AIRES : MODERN RESIDENCES ..... I56

THE JOCKEY CLUB : A PRIVATE DINING-ROOM . . . I58

THE JOCKEY CLUB : ENTRANCE HALL 165

PALERMO RACE COURSE : THE MEMBERS’ STAND . . . 1 72

♦SUNDAY ON THE TIGRE . 1 76

ON THE TIGRE RIVER l8l

BUENOS AIRES : THE MATADEROS ...... l88

LA PLATA : THE NEW RAILWAY STATION .... I93

IN THE CORDOBA HILLS 195

A MENDOZA STREET ........ I99

MAR DEL PLATA : THE BRISTOL HOTEL ..... 202

DON MIGUEL ALFREDO MARTINEZ DE HOZ COACHING IN ENGLAND 206

CHAPADMALAL : THE ESTANCIA HOUSE 208

A DENIZEN OF THE PASTURES 21 1

Wingfield’s charm : a sire at the estancia la indepen-

den cia 213

BRANDING CATTLE :i 215

BRANDING CATTLE : II 2I5

♦CATTLE WATERING .216

BRANDING CATTLE I III 21 8

BRANDING CATTLE : IV 2l8

BUENOS AIRES : THE PLAZA HOTEL ..... 220

SUMMER IN THE CAMPO ........ 222

♦CHILENOS TREKKING ACROSS THE FRONTIER .... 224

A CAMPO GRAVEYARD ........ 229

HEREFORD CATTLE 236

IN THE SHADE OF THE EUCALYPTUS 236

ILLUSTRATIONS xix

TO FACE PAGE

WHEAT PILES AT OCHANDIO STATION 24 1

RAILWAY STATION : PLAZA CONSTITUCION .... 247

GRAIN ELEVATORS : BAHIA BLANCA 25O

CUTTING ON THE PRINGLES EXTENSION : GREAT SOUTHERN

*MOUNT LLANIN, SOUTHERN ANDES ...... 264

*A SUMMER’S DAY ON A CHICKEN FARM 272

*A COUNTRY POLICE STATION . . . . . . .280

*PINES ON LAKE ALUMINE 288

A CORRIENTES COUNTRY CHURCH 309

THE TRANSPORT OF QUEBRACHO LOGS 316

*SCINOCA PASS 320

A WOUNDED GIANT FOX . . . . . . -355

THE INCEPTION OF FRATERNITY 355

A NORTHERN * CAMP ' CART ....... 337

MESSRS. FREUND AND DUFFIELD : TWO WELL-KNOWN NORTHERN

PIONEERS 357

SPORT IN A NORTHERN SWAMP 339

TRAVEL IN THE CHACO 359

♦INDIAN GIRLS DRIVING HOME THEIR GOAT HERDS . . . 360

A CHACO LAGOON 362

A REACH OF THE PILCOMAYO 362

A macA CHIEFTAIN AND HIS DAUGHTERS .... 364

WILD FISHERMEN ......... 364

A WATERCOURSE THROUGH ALLUVIAL EARTH . . . 366

A CHACO STREAM 366

♦PUENTE DEL INCA : THE FAMOUS NATURAL BRIDGE . . 368

THE VALLEY OF LAS CUEVAS 37I

STATUE OF CHRIST ON THE CUMBRE 373

*OLD REFUGE HUT IN THE ANDES ...... 376

AN ANDINE CUTTING 380

PEDIGREE CATTLE ......... 382

EWES AND LAMBS AT LAS CABEZAS 382

LAS CABEZAS : THE HOMESTEAD 387

THE FIRST RANCHO : A RELIC OF OLD DAYS .... 387

A HALT BY THE WAY 398

XX

ILLUSTRATIONS

TO FACE PAGE

♦evening on the canal : TIERRA del fuego . . . 400

♦typical rancho 408

♦poplar TREES OF THE PARANA ...... 416

♦alumine NEUQUEN ........ 424

LEMCO AND OXO FACTORY : COLON 435

SHIPPING ON THE URUGUAY 435

AN ENTRE RIOS GARDEN 437

THE VISITORS’ GARDEN : COLON 437

TYPICAL SMALLER RESIDENCE : COLON ..... 439

PLEASANT PASTURES 439

♦LAKE NAHUEL HUAPI ........ 440

LEMCO SCHOOLHOUSE t COLON ...... 442

THE BATHING HOUSE : COL6N 442

PIONEERING IN THE SOUTH 444

LAKE NAHUEL HUAPI 444

A TUCUMAN SUGAR FACTORY . ...... 446

THE PROGRESS OF SHIPPING : LAUNCH OF THE Forth, 184 1 . 448

THE PROGRESS OF SHIPPING : THE OrinOCO, 1 85 1 . . . 449

the progress of shipping : the Medway, 1854 . . 453

♦THE IGUAZU FALLS 455

THE IGUAZtj FALLS ......... 456

THE MAIN FALL : IGUAZU . 458

THE IGUAZU FALLS ......... 458

Map of Argentina at end of volume.

Chapter I

Argentina and the Promise of the New World — The Visions of Cat Conquistador — Discovery and its Commercial Aspects — The River Plate and the Shadow of the Mine Lands — Status of the Province — Situation at the Time of Argentina’s Discovery — The Voyage of Amerigo Vespucci — Juan Diaz de Solis Sails up the La Plata River — Death of Solis at the Hands of Indians — Return of the Expedition— Visit of Magellanes — Expeditions of Diego Garcia and Sebastian Cabot — Cabot’s Feats of Exploration — An Attempted Settlement — The Pioneer’s Reception in Spain — A Portugese Venture — Pedro de Mendoza, First Governor of the River Plate — His Fleet and Equipment — A Disastrous Voyage — First Settlement at Buenos Aires — Theories Concerning the Origin of the Name — Vicissitudes of the Colony — Hostility of the Indians — Death of Pedro de Mendoza.

It is only in accordance with human inability to judge of the future that Argentina, to-day the richest of South American states, should have been explored and colonised for the routes it promised to Peru and the north-west rather than from any expectation of benefit from its own resources. The hope that at the end of the fifteenth century sent men from Europe out into the unknown was certainly not that of agricultural success, with all its ethics of sustained effort and comparatively humdrum results. It was a vision of gold — of shiploads of gold swept up from lands where the precious metal should lie as thickly as stones upon European roads — that sent out the pioneers in their frail fleets which, almost as often as not, lost a quota of their number ere the remaining vessels, battered and weatherworn, found their home port again.

In justice to these early navigators it must be admitted that their highest expectations would not have been incompatible in the way of reward for this utterly daring and strenuous voyaging. From Columbus onwards (who to the end clung to his illusions as tenaciously as his ships to the course he had marked for them), not a single one of these early and most brilliant pioneers met with any adequate material compensation. Fame they enjoyed, it is true, a fame that was never more richly deserved, though frequently it was accorded, on the broad and condoning basis that success demands, for what they did rather than for the means employed.

But it was not celebrity alone that the pioneers awaited in exchange for the reckless sacrifice of humanitarian tenets. With subsidies to be wrung from royalty and doubting merchants, the most reckless expedition ever planned possessed its commercial side, its worries of debit and credit, and it was many a despairing effort to make good the promises of financial success that sent the tens of thousands of aborigines to their death. And the majority of these natives, ground out of existence by their enforced labour in search of gold, died in vain. The reward, when it came, was reserved for the later arrivals with a fuller knowledge of the new continent that was revealing its secrets with increasing rapidity as it became more completely dominated by the augmented bands of European explorers and adventurers.