Annals of the town of Warren : with the early history of St. George's broad bay, and the neighboring settlements on the Waldo Patent

Front matter

HAFMDLD B. LEE LIBRARY

0<TISHAM YOUWO UAHVePSlTY

PROVO, UTAH

Preface

State, and is now reclaimed. In gaining access to and collecting his materials, it gives the author great pleasure to acknowledge the uniform kindness and generous aid, not only of his immediate friends and acquaintances, but of many others on whom he had no claims; and he would tender his sincere thanks to Hon. Rufus Mclntire, Hon. Franklin Clark, John McKeen, Esq., many public functionaries. Prof. J. Johnston of Middleton, Conn., Marshall S. Rice, Esq. of Newton, Mass., and particularly to Rev. J. L. Sibley of Harvard University, without whose encouragement he would not have undertaken, and without whose favors he could scarcely have accomplished, the task.

Could he now persuade himself that he has been at all successful in working up his materials, in collating and comparing docunients, reconciling conflicting statements, verifying traditions by written testimony, detailing events with accuracy and recalling the past as it was, the author would not be over sensitive in regard to the minor faults of style, diction, punctuation, &c. For some of these, want of sight and the difficulty of criticising by the ear, may, perhaps, be allowed to plead in apology ; whilst others have arisen from alterations and curtailment hastily made in the progress of printing. Some of the more obvious errors of the press are noted in the table of errata. As the work has been extended much beyond the number of pages named, and furnished with maps not contemplated in his prospectus, the author hopes the pecuniary sacrifice thus incurred will be accepted by his subscribers as a token of gratitude for their generous patronage.

Warren, July 31, 1851.

PAGE

Chap. I. Situation, natural features, &c., of the town of Warren. 1

Chap. II. Discovery and naming of St. George’s River, with a glance at the other discoveries, settlements, and claims made in the vicinity. — Indian war and Sickness of 1615 and ’18. — Monhegan, Newharbor, Pemaquid and Damariscotta. — Patent to Beauchamp and Leverett. — Trading-house at St. George’s. — The Patentees. — Earliest settlers. — Changes of jurisdiction. — Condition of the country. — The 1st, (King Philip’s,) Indian war. ... 12

Chap. III. Dutch at Newcastle. — The 2d Indian war. — Pemaquid taken. — Settlements east of Falmouth deserted. — Indian chiefs. — New Charter of Massachusetts, and Gov. Phips. — Fort Wm. Henry, and skirmish at Damariscotta.

— Peace. — Death of Madockawando. — Land at St. George’s purchased of the Indians. — Suppression of pirates. — Queen Anne’s war. — Castine, the younger. — Peace, and the renewal of settlements. — Missionaries. — Conference at Georgetown. — Settlement farther east. — Doings at St. George’s. — Seizure of Castine. — The 4th Indian war. — Attacks at Pemaquid and other places. —

At St. George’s, sloop and mill burnt, — Fort besieged, — Made a public garrison. — Expedition to Penobscot. — Another attack on St. George’s. — Skirmish, and death of Winslow. — Naval warfare, and attack on St. George’s.

— Close of the war. — Capt. Gyles. — Dummer’s Treaty,

1726 26

Chap. IY. Truck-house and agent at St. George’s. — Private traders. — Indian conference, 1727, and truck-masters. — Gyles, justice of the peace. — Gov. Dunbar. — Pierpoint, chaplain. — Indian conference, 1732. — Waldo, sole proprietor at St. George’s, — Prepares for extensive settlement, — Commences lime-burning, — Visits St. George’s,

— Confers with Indians, — Contracts with 27 settlers for the upper town. — Conditions. — Names. — Saw-mill re- *

VI

Contents

built. — Lots laid out. — Other settlements, — Forbidden by the Indians, above tide waters. — Action of the Gen. Court thereon. — Garrison reduced. — Location of the first settlers. — Their houses, employments, &c. — Earhest children. — Fears of a new rupture with Indians. — Waldo, colonel. — H. Alexander, first militia captain. — Threatening hostilities with Spain, and measures of defence. — First grist-mill and meeting-house. — Shipwreck at Mt. Desert. — First German settlers at Broad Bay. — Limits of the Waldo and Pemaquid patents settled by compromise. — Hardships of the German settlers. — Boice Cooper. — L. Parsons, &c. — 1741 42

Chap. V. New tenor currency. — Indian disaffection. — St. George’s fort rebuilt. — Bradbury, commander. — Earliest death in the upper town. — Lower town extended. —

War with France. — St. John’s Indians hostile. — Precautions for preserving peace with Tarratines. — Militia, and scouting parties. — Louisburg expedition. — Effect at St, George’s, — At Broad Bay. — Indians attack St. George’s.

Chapter I. The Town Described

The town of Warren, in the county of Lincoln, State of Maine, is situated on both sides of St. George’s River at the head of tide waters ; and is bounded westerly by Waldoboro’, northerly by Union, easterly and southeasterly by Camden and Thomaston, and southerly by Cushing, Its central village is not far from 44® of N. latitude, and is, by the route traveled, about 34 miles S. E. from Augusta and about 617 from Washington. It contains 29,636 acres, and is about equal to a tract 6| miles square. From this, if we deduct 1600 acres for water and 450 for highways, we have remaining 27,586 acres. According to the valuation of 1840 there were returned by the assessors an aggregate of 22,245 acres, leaving a deficiency of 5,341 acres to be accounted for in one or more of the following ways. 1. The liberal measure used in locating all the more ancient lots, and the fractions lost in the division thereof, will account for a part. 2. The possession of lots by persons out of town may for a time prevent the same from coming to the knowledge of the assessors. 3. The natural reluctance of every person to paying a high tax, may lead to a low estimate, and sometimes to a false representation. 4. Some assessors have been in the habit of reducing the quantity of mowing, marsh and other lands, to make up for its poor quality, making no account of ledges, bogs and flats, as of no value.

The surface of the town is uneven, being broken into ridges and gullies, hills and vallies, and having some eminences of considerable elevation. Tw^o of these in the N. E. part of the town, belonging to the Camden group, have been dignified 1

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with the name of mountain. Of these Mt. Pleasant is the highest, and commands an extensive prospect of the neighboring towns, the Atlantic Ocean and Penobscot Bay, the winding coast and adjacent islands, with the tops of many distant inland mountains including the White Hills of New Hampshire. It is often visited by parties of pleasure from this and the neighboring towns. Its eastern ascent is difficult and precipitous, while its western declivity is gentle and easy. The approach from this quarter has the advantage, also, of having the prospect concealed from view by woods till the summit is nearly attained, when it suddenly breaks on the astonished gaze in all its magnificence. The apex of this mountain consists of naked gneiss, but most of its sides are covered with a fertile soil. Crawford’s Mt. is more westerly, smaller, and covered with wood. Stahl’s hill, in the S. W. part of the town, though of less elevation, affords a fine view extending to White-Head Island and the neighboring waters.

The geological features of the town are the result of the general structure of this part of the country, modified of course by local peculiarities. The foundation is primary, consisting of trap, granite, gneiss, mica or talcose slate, with intervening beds of limestone. These rocks appear broken, elevated and depressed into ridges and hollows, hills and precipices, often in a most confused manner ; like blocks of ice jammed together in a spring freshet, the edges of the strata brought to the surface, their order and contents exposed either in a vertical position, or elevated at various angles. The stratification thus exposed and the primary ridges thus formed, however undulating in their course, extend as a general thing in a N. E. and S. W. direction. This forms the most marked feature of the locality. A second is tlie general ascent of the country from the sea-shore northerly, causing, its drainage to find its way in a contrary direction across these rocky ridges in cross fractures and depressions, which give a meandering, zigzag course to the streams as they pass, now lingering in the bosoms of ponds and lakes, and now leaping down rapids and cascades, to the ocean.

Such is the character of the river St. George’s ; which, after the jurxtion of its two most distant branches, the one issuing from Quantabacook Pond in Belmont and Searsmoht, the other from St. George’s Great Pond in Liberty and Montville, proceeds through Appleton, Union, Warren, Thomaston, and between Cushing and St. George, discharging its waters and those of many tributaries received in its course, into the sea between the two last mentioned towns. Its whole course

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seems to be a continued struggle between a tendency on the one hand to pursue a direct southern course to the ocean, and that on the other of following the direction of the vallies that stretch southwesterly between the ridges. This sufficiently appears in the two great bends which the river makes in the upper part of Warren, forming the Starrett and Vaughan peninsulas, as well as in those in Union and at the Narrows in Thomaston ; in the numerous ponds which it fills in its course at present, and the many more which it seems to have filled in former ages ; and especially in the facility with which a part of its waters in time of a freshet pass into North and South Ponds, through which it is not improbable the whole once found their way to the ocean ; though these ponds at present only serve as reservoirs to retain the superfluous water, till, on the subsiding of the freshet, the current is reversed, the inlet becomes the outlet, and the water is restored to the stream from whence it was borrowed.

The many reservoirs of this kind, connected with the river, give a permanency and value to its water privileges, which they could not otherwise possess. The tide formerly flowed as high up as Boggs’s shore at the foot of the upper falls, but is now stopped a little short of that point, by the dam at the lower bridge. This river is about 40 miles long, runs through Warren from N. to S., is navigable for vessels of 90 or 100 tons burthen to Andrews’s Point ; and smaller craft go to the village about three-quarters of a mile higher. But the

Narrows” a little below the boundary of Warren, render its navigation somewhat difficult. The tide rushes through them with such violence that a loaded vessel can pass them with safety only at high water ; and their direction is so nearly opposite to the general course of the river that vessels ascending or descending with a fair wind are sure to find a contrary one here. Two toll-bridges, one in Thomaston and one in the lower part of this town, are additional impediments ; and, since the exportation of lumber has ceased and lime is taken to southern ports in large vessels which stop at Thomaston, most of the freighting is taken in and discharged at that place which used to be done here. Above the tide waters, on the contrary, the navigation of this river has been greatly extended by locks and canals, which render its whole length navigable for boats and open a market for wood and lumber as high up as the Quantabacook. There are valuable water privileges at the upper and lower falls in this town ; the latter of which, only, are at present occupied, A little before this stream leaves Warren, it receives the waters of Oyster

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E-iver, a considerable branch, which drains the eastern part of the town from the foot of Mt. Pleasant, and runs in a S. W. direction between Warren and Thomaston, several times crossing the line, working sundry mills in its course, and affording sites for others. It is navigable to the bridge, formerly Lermond’s Mills, where shipbuilding was early commenced and is still carried on. Judas’ Meadow Brook is a smaller branch which drains the N. W. part of the town. There are other branches both above and below Warren, the most considerable of which is Mill River in Thomaston.

The S. W. part of the town is drained by Back River emptying into South Pond beforementioned ; which is the largest sheet of water in town, about two miles long by fiveeighths of a mile wide, situated between the two Waldoboro’ roads. Its outlet unites with that from West Pond, a quadrangular body of water, half a mile in extent, on the confines of Waldoboro’ ; and the united stream passes through North Pond, which is deep, but narrow and irregular, into the main river as before related. Farther to the S. W. are Little and Southwest Ponds which are smaller. Crawford’s Pond, partly in Union, transmits the drainage of the N. W. declivity of Mt. Pleasant and Crawford’s Mt. to the main river in Union. Seven Tree Pond, mostly in Union, and White Oak Pond, just below it, are mere expansions of the St. George’s.

The soil of the town is good ; but varies in character according to the action which has taken place since the period of its deposition in the diluvium deposited above the fundamental rocks, before described. This diluvial earth, formed by the disintegration of the rocks beneath the waves of the primeval ocean, seems to have been, when the country was elevated from the abyss, transported southward by currents, glaciers, or icebergs, in such a manner as to grind down and smooth the surface of the ledges, leaving grooves and scratches in that direction, which may be plainly seen whenever a ledge is first uncovered. Hence the fragmentary rocks are always found to the southward of the ledges from which they were taken ; and muscles and other sea-shells have been dug up at great depths in situations as high as that of the late Oliver Boggs, who, in digging his well, found them in a good state of preservation. Appearances indicate that the region was subsequently covered with water at about the height of the ridge by D. Page’s ; which seems to have been a sea-wall beaten by the billows for a period long enough to round and polish the boulders in a manner similar to, but less perfect than, those of the present sea-shore. Such situations afford the poorest soil, being composed chiefly of sand and gravel from which the finer and more argillacious particles were washed out and deposited in deeper and more tranquil waters. At a higher elevation on the declivities of the hills enriched by the washings from above, as well as at a lower elevation on ridges abounding with unworn boulders, a fertile, loamy soil sufficiently rewards the hard labor required in its cultivation. But the most profitable soil, all things considered, is found in the vallies of the river and its tributaries, consisting of clays apparently deposited from the ancient lakes formed by the transverse ridges that obstructed the course of the streams. Where this clay is mixed with, or covered by, a suitable quantity of sand or gravel, its cultivation is easy, and fertility inexhaustible. A more recently made, and for certain crops more productive, species of soil, is found in the fresh and salt marshes formed, and still forming, from the annual deposit of alluvial earth. To these may be added swamps and bogs, particularly the great one between Hector M. Watts’s and A. Andrews’s, which consists entirely of decayed vegetable matter to the depth of 15 feet or more, in which are found, at various depths, trunks of juniper and other trees in a sound condition. It has been formed by a supply of water sufficient to nourish, but not to drown, the growth of moss, bushes and trees, with which it is still in part covered ; and may throw some light on the probable formation of coal mines.

The only minerals of value found in the town are limestone and granite. The principal quarry of the latter, is that on the J. Storer farm. Limestone is found in inexhaustible quantities between David and Alex’ r Starrett’s. It is granular in structure, white in color, has been extensively quarried both for lime and marble, and is unsurpassed by any in the State. Limestone is also found in the neighborhood of Crawford’s Pond. Connected with this mineral, or interspersed through it, are found small quantities of pot-stone, soap-stone, asbestos, lead and zinc. Sulphuret of iron abounds in several ledges; and its crystals, as also those of quartz, mica, tourmaline and garnet, are occasionally found, of great beauty. Bogiron ore and yellow ochre also exist in the eastern part of the town, but to what extent has not been ascertained. Coal, both in this town and Thomaston, has been sought for, and at times with strong expectations of success, but, with the exception of some fragments found in the bed of the river, the indications are not encouraging. There is an extensive

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bed of porphyry near the late Paul Mink’s in School District No. 16, but no attempt has been made to quarry it.

Besides the waters of the ocean, to which the inhabitants of this town have easy access, the river affords an abundant supply, in their successive seasons, of the various finny tribes. Frostfish in December and January, smelts in March and April, shad and alewives in May and June, throng its waters. Salmon formerly abounded, and bass are still taken, but not in great numbers. Eels are speared in any quantities at Andrews’s Point and some places in Oyster River, where they hibernate under the ice. Manhaden, flounders, bluebacks, garfish, in the salt-waters, and pickerel, trout, lampreys, suckers, white and yellow perch, pouts, roach, chub, shiners, minows, &c. are found in the fresh-water streams and ponds. Oysters formerly abounded both in St. George’s and Oyster Rivers, and there is still an abundance of clams and muscles in the river below this town. Pickerel were not caught here prior to 1882, a few years before which time they were introduced to the ponds in Union by Dr. Harding and others, and a special act passed for their protection.

Of the different water fowl which are seen here, the wild goose stops a few’ days only on his passage in spring and autumn; the bittern and, more rarely, the spoonbill are seen about the ponds and meadows ; the gull comes up with the flsh ; the woodcock, snipe, the humility and others of the tattler tribe, teach their young to elude the eye of man by clinging motionless to the ground which in color they resemble, whilst the parent performs all manner of antics, counterfeiting lameness, distress and death to avert attention from her offspring ; the common, and the more beautiful wood, duck divide the winter between the salt and fresh-waters, flying landward before, and seaward after, a tempest ; the goosander or sheldrake, coot, whistling dipper, and other seabirds, occasionally pass up and down the river, especially in spring ; and the loon, largest and most beautiful of the divers, as remarkable for agility in the water as awkwardness on shore, easily, before the use of percussion caps, eluded the sportsman’s aim by diving at the flash of his gun. One of these last, while pursuing his way under water, was- once caught in a net near Stirling Bridge by a person dipping for alewives ; and a pair of them for many years hatched their young on an abandoned hay-rick in O. Boggs’s meadow, till, in 1838, both, swimming in North Pond with their helpless offspring on the mother’s back, were shot by the ruthless rifle of the sportsman. The crane and heron are much less frequently seen now than

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30 years ago ; when they were daily observed pursuing their steady flight, with eels and other victims still alive and squirming, toward their ancient breeding place near Oyster River in the borders of Thomaston. There, in countless multitude, they built their uncouth, boot-shaped nests, often three or four on a tree to the extent of more than an acre ; strewing the ground with the shells of muscles and other molluscs with which they fed their young, till the axe of industry invaded their sanctuary and forced them to seek another home.

Of the 87 or 90 distinct species of land birds which have fallen under our observation, either as summer, winter or perennial residents, or mere passengers on their way to distant regions, (some of which far outnumber the human dwellers in the town,) the limits of this work will not allow us to speak particularly. Most of them are, in one way or other, subservient to the wants of man ; some to our health in removing putrescent carcasses and other nuisances ; some to our crops in destroying noxious insects, reptiles, and vermin ; some to our virtues by the examples they set of courage, industry, perseverance, affection, and a cheerful trust in Providence ; whilst others contribute to our delight by the beauty of their plumage and the sweetness of their music. They seem to vary in number and species in different years and periods of years. The red-headed woodpecker, the pride of the primeval forest, and the meadow lark, sweet soother of the pensive soul, have wholly disappeared. The whip-poor-will is heard only in the most woody situations ; the scarlet tanager rarely ffashes through the orchard ; and the cuckoo comes only when the hairy caterpillars, which other birds refuse, require extermination. The suspicious sagacity of the crow, acquired from the experience of a hundred years, seems to outwit itself ; since a simple string suspended fromqpole to pole is sufficient to protect a cornfield from his depredations. The fish-hawk though a skilful purveyor, sometimes allows his ambition to exceed his strength; as one was seen in. North Pond, by O. Boggs, to pounce upon a fish so large, that, after a doubtful struggle for some minutes, the assailant, unable to loose his hold, was dragged down and never rose again. The bald or white-headed eagle, that in times of plenty disdains to cater for himself, stimulated by winter famine has been seen to dart suddenly down and snatch the eel from beneath the fisherman’s eye. But instead of pursuing the subject farther, we invite our young readers to ‘‘ behold” for themselves ‘‘ the fowls of the air” and not give over the instructive amusement till they become familiar with the names, powers and habits

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of these tenants of the fields and forests; from the hummingbird, animated blossom of the garden, the redstart, moving gem of the forest, the yellow-bird, tulip of summer, and the goldfinch, vainest of dandies, to the oven-bird concealing his nest with an arch, the small w^oodpecker that chips out a chamber for his winter lodgings in the trunk of a rotten beech, the blue-bird, repairing his nest in autumn in hopes of a joyful return in spring, and the robin whose mellifluous notes not only cheer his mate at her tedious tavsk, but by skilful variation telegraph to her ear every shade and degree of approaching danger.

For the quadrupeds originally found here, and their gradual disappearance as the country became cleared, the reader is referred to subsequent chapters. Of the reptiles it is remarked that the frogs have greatly diminished since the introduction of the pickerel to our waters. Of snakes we have only a few small and harmless species, except perhaps the spotted adder, abounding at the rocky hills, and the water snake, occasionally met with in the ponds. Insects, though numerous and at times destructive, are greatly repressed by the mutability of the climate, which seldom allows the same species to continue formidable for more than two or three years at a time. The study of their different arts, contrivances and modes of living, is also an endless field of amusement and instruction. In the vegetable kingdom, the number of species met with in the limits of the town, exclusive of grasses, mosses and other cryptogamous, as well as cultivated plants, amounts to 353, divided among 193 genera. A farther examination, particularly of the cryptogamous plants, grasses, and sedges, would greatly add to the number. But the limits of this work will not permit us even to glance at the beauty and utility of these tribes which adorn the field and forest, rock, mountain and swamp, from the Epigeum whose fragrant flowers bloom beside the April snowdrift, to the witch-hazel whose yellow petals open amid the storms of October.

The climate of the place, situated as it is on the confines of the ocean, whose waters, mingling with those of every zone, have a great effect in equalizing temperature, is neither so hot in summer nor cold in winter as in more inland situations. Yet the mercury ranges from 24P below to 98® above zero in the shade ; and, in places favorable to the concentration of heat by reflection and of its dispersion by radiation, a still greater range may be obtained. Influenced by the waters, which, heated by a tropical sun, rise to the surface and flow northwardly, forming the gulf stream, and by

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the denser current from the north, which flows in a contrary direction beneath, and is forced to the surface in passing over the shoals of our coast, the temperature vacillates with their different influences as brought by the winds more or less near to the coast. Changes accordingly sometimes occur with great suddenness, and form the most peculiar feature of the climate. The easterly winds are damp and disagreeable, the westerly dry and bracing. In summer the vapor with which the South winds become surcharged in crossing the gulf stream, is condensed by the cooler water nearer shore and hangs in dense fogs sometimes for days and weeks together. Thunder showers and snow squalls usually come from the N. W. and the lightning is probably the effect rather than the cause of the cooler wind that brings them, acting upon the warmer one which it meets. Our great tempests usually proceed from the S. W. and are about three days in reaching us from the Gulf of Mexico. They seem to be huge vortices or whirlwinds, whereof the front portion, blowing from the S. E. comes warm and moist from the ocean attended with rain or snow ; whilst the latter half, blowing cold and dry from the N. W. is usually denominated fair weather. The year consists of a winter of about five months, extending from Nov. to April, a muddy and tardy spring, a short and hot summer, and a frosty and delightful autumn. But all these are frequently reversed ; as the second great feature of the climate is the uncertainty of one year compared with another, and of a series of years compared with another series.

Diseases vary with the irregularity of the seasons, but the most common are colds, influenza, consumption, rheumatism, dysentery and fever. From the table of deaths appended to this work it will be seen that the average yearly number of deaths from 1800 to 1809 inclusively, was in proportion to the average number of inhabitants as one in 109, from thence to 1819 as one in 131, from thence to 1829 as one in 85, from thence to 1839 as one in 77, and from thence to 1849 as one in 78, making an average mortality for the last 50 years of one in 88. According to the History of Concord the annual mortality of that town is one in 66, of Salem one in 48, Boston one in 41, Philadelphia one in 45, London one in 40, Paris one in 32, Vienna one in 22.

The population of this town may be divided into four classes ; 1st. the descendants of the Scotch Irish who originally settled the town in 1735, 2d. the descendants of the Scottish colony who came hither in 1753, 3d. the descendants of natives of this country, mostly of English extraction.

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who came hither from western places before the revolution, 4th. later immigrants and their descendants, including a few of German, English, Highland Scotch and Celtic Irish origin, with one small school district of African descent. The characteristics of these several classes, with the exception of that of color, have now become assimilated and combined into a tolerably homogeneous population, although certain peculiarities of dialect occasionally betray the origin of each. For their present numbers, occupation, taxable property, &c., at the recent and former enumerations, the reader is referred to the following chapters, and to the tables appended.

Of the former races, that for unknown ages prior to the white man’s coming, roamed over, if they did not cultivate, this region, little can now be known ; as their whole history, however tragical in itself and all-engrossing to its actors, has, for the want of literary monuments been lost in oblivion ; with the exception of a small portion, which, like the remnants of the tribes themselves, still lingers little regarded amid the achievements of their successors. It is not known that this river was the permanent residence of any distinct tribe ; but, situated on the confines of two mighty confederacies whose dominions were parted by the Megunticook Mountains, it must, in all probability, have witnessed many an artful ambush, and many a deadly conflict. It belonged to the brave tribe of the Wawenocks, the immediate subjects of the great chief called the Bashaba, near Pemaquid, till the conquest of that tribe by the Tarratines in 1615, after which it was claimed by the latter. The Wawenocks were active, strong, very witty, and, as their name implies, fearing nothing; the men beardless, the women well-favored, and all dressed in skins.* The Tarratines were a numerous, powerful, discreet, warlike tribe, more hardy than their western neighbors, and escaped the disease which nearly exterminated the latter in 1617 and ’18.f Few monuments of either of these races are to be found in this vicinity. Stone axes, chisels, spear and arrow heads are sometimes picked up near the principal fishing stations. In digging the cellar under the house of M. PI. Smith, Esq. early in the present century, a skeleton supposed to be that of an Indian was dug up and interred elsewhere by the workmen. On the 7th of May, 1836, five entire skeletons were disinterred on removing the alluvial soil near the Smelt Creek on the east bank of the river south of the village. They were apparently deposited t Will. Hist. Maine, &c.