Round about the Carpathians

Chapter I. Page

Down the Danube from Buda-Pest — Amusements on board the steamer — Basiash — Drive to Oravicza by Weisskirchen — Ladies of Oravicza— Gipsy music — Finding an old schoolfellow — The czardas . . ■ . .1

Chapter II

Consequences of trying to buy a horse — An expedition into Servia — Fine scenery — The peasants of New Moldova — Szechenyi road — Geology of the defile of Kasan — Crossing the Danube — Milanovacz — Drive to Maidenpek — Fearful storm in the mountains — Miserable quarters for the night — Extent of this storm — The disastrous effects of the same storm at Buda-Pest — Great loss of life . . .15

Chapter III

Maidenpek — Well-to-do condition of Servians — Lady Mary Wortley Montague's journey through Servia — Troubles in Bulgaria — Communists at Negotin — Copper mines — Forest ride— Robbers on the road — Kucainia — Belo-breska — Across the Danube — Detention at customhouse — Weisskirchen — Sleeping Wallacks . . . .33

Chapter IV

Variety of races in Hungary — Wallacks or Roumains — Statistics — Savage outbreak of the Wallacks in former years — Panslavic ideas — Roumanians and their origin — Priests of the Greek Church— Destruction of forests — Spirit of Communism — Incendiary fires . . . .46

IV CONTENTS.

Chapter V

Paraffine- works in Oravicza — Gold mine — Coal mine3 at Auima- Steirdorf — Geology — States Railway Company's mines — Bribery ....... 54

Chapter VI

Mineral wealth of the Banat — Wild ride to Dognacska — Equipment for a riding tour — An afternoon nap and its consequences — Copper mines — Self-help — Rare insects — Moravicza — Rare minerals — Deutsch Bogsan — Reschitza . 58

Chapter VII

Election at Oravicza — Officialism — Reforms — Society — Ride to Szaszka — Fine views — Drenkova — Character of the Serhs — Svenica — Rough night walk through the forest . , 70

Chapter VIII

Hospitable welcome at Uibanya — Excursion to the Servian side of the Danube — Ascent of the Stierberg — Bivouac in the woods — Magnificent views towards the Balkans — Fourteen eagles disturbed — Wallack dance . . . .83

Chapter IX

A hunting expedition proposed — Drive from Uibanya to Orsova — Oriental aspect of the market-place — Cserna Valley — Hercules-Bad, Mehadia — Post-office mistakes — Drive to Karansebes — Rough customers en route — Lawlessness — Fair at Karansebes — Podolian cattle — Ferocious dogs ........ 90

Chapter X

Post-office at Karansebes — Good headquarters for a sportsman — Preparations for a week in the mountains — The party starting for the hunt — Adventures by the way — Fine trees — Game — Hut in the forest — Beauty of the scenery in the Southern Carpathians . . .104

CONTENTS. V

CHAPTER XT.

Chamois and bear hunting — First battue — Luxurious dinner 5000 feet above the sea-level — Storm in the night — Discomforts — The bear's supper — The eagle's breakfast — Second and third day's shooting — Baking a friend as a cure for fever — Striking camp — View into Roumania . 118

Chapter XII

Back at Mehadia — Troubles about a carriage — An unexpected night on the road — Return to Karansebes — On horseback through the Iron Gate Pass — Varhely, the ancient capital of Dacia — Roman remains — Beauty of the Hatszeg Valley 131

Chapter XIII

Hungarian hospitality — Wallack laziness — Fishing — " Settled gipsies " — Anecdote — Old regime — Fire — Old Roman bath — The avifauna of Transylvania — Fly-fishing . 140

Chapter XIV

On horseback to Petroseny — A new town — Valuable coal-fields — Killing fish with dynamite and poison — Singular manner of repairing roads — Hungarian patriotism — Story of Hunyadi Janos — Intrusion of the Moslems into Europe 152

Chapter XV

Hunting for a guide — School statistics — Old times — Over the mountains to Herrmannstadt — Night in the open — Nearly setting the forest on fire — Orlat . . . . 100

Chapter XVI

Herrmannstadt — Saxon immigrants — Museum — Places of interest in the neighbourhood — The fortress-churches — Heltau— The Rothen Thurm Pass — Turkish incursions . 173

VI CONTENTS.

Chapter XVII

Magyar intolerance of the German — Patriotic revival of the Magyar language — Ride from Herrmannstadt to Kronstadt — The village of Zeiden — Curious scene in church — Reformation in Transylvania — Political bitterness between Saxons and Magyars in 1848 . . . .184

A ride through Szeklerland— Warnings about robbers— Biiksad — A look at the sulphur deposits on Mount Budos — A lonely lake— An invitation to Tusnad . . .219

Chapter XXII

The baths of Tusnad— The state of affairs before 1848— Inequality of taxation — Reform — The existing land laws — Communal property— Complete registration of titles to estates — Question of entail . . . . .232

CONTENTS. Vll

Chapter XXXI

Skating — Death and funeral of Deak — Deak's policy — Uneasiness about the rise of the Danube — Great excitement about inundations — The capital in danger— Night scene on the embankment — Firing the danger-signal — The great calamity averted . . . . . . .321

Chapter XXXII

Results of the Danube inundations — State of things at Baja — Terrible condition of New Pest — Injuries sustained by the island garden of St. Marguerite — Charity organisation . 335

Chapter XXXIII

Expedition to the Marmaros Mountains— Railways in Hungary — The train stopping for a rest — The Alfdld— Shepherds of the plain — Wild appearance of the Rusniacks— Slavs of Northern Hungary — Marmaros Szigeth — Difficulty in slinging a hammock — The Jews of Karasconfalu — Soda manufactory at Boeska — Romantic scenery — Salt mines — Subterranean lake ...... 339

Chapter XXXIV

The Tokay district— Visit at Schloss G Wild-boar hunting — Incidents of the chase .... 355

CHAPTER XXXV. Tokay vineyards — The vine-grower's difficulties — Geology of

the Hegyalia — The Pope's compliment to the wine of

Tallya — Towns of the Hegyalia — Farming — System of

wages at harvest — The different sorts of Tokay wine . 364

Map of the Banat and Transylvania with Mr Crosse's route.

ROUND ABOUT THE CARPATHIANS.

Chapter I

Down the Danube from Biula-Pest — Amusements on board the steamer — Basiash — Drive to Oravicza by Weisskirchen — Ladies of Oravicza —Gipsy music — Finding an old schoolfellow — The czardas.

One glorious morning in June 1875, I, with the true holiday feeling at heart, for the world was all before me, stepped on board the Rustchuk steamer at Buda-Pest, intending to go down the Danube as far as Basiash.

Your express traveller, whose aim it is to get to the other end of everywhere in the shortest possible time, will take the train instead of the boat to Basiash, and there catch up the steamer, saving fully twelve hours on the way. This time the man in a hurry is not so far wrong ; the Danube between Buda-Pest and the defile of Kasan is almost devoid of what the regular tourist would call respectable scenery. There are few objects of interest, except the mighty river itself.

Now the steamer has its advantages over the train, for surely nowhere in this locomotive world can a man more thoroughly enjoy "sweetly doing nothing" than on board one of these river-boats. You are wafted swiftly onward through pure air and sunshine ; you have an armchair under the awning ; of course an amusing French novel ; besides, truth to say, there is plenty to amuse you on board. Once past Vienna, your moorings are cut from the old familiar West ; the costumes, the faces, the architecture, and even the way of not doing things, have all a flavour of the East.

What a hotch-potch of races, so to speak, all in one boat, but ready to do anything rather than pull together ; even here, between stem and stern of our Danube steamer, are Magyars, Germans, Servians, Croats, Eoumanians, Jews, and gipsies. They are all unsatisfied people with aspirations; no two are agreed — everybody wants something else down here, and how Heaven is to grant all the prayers of those who have the grace to pray, or how otherwise to settle the Eastern Question, I will not pretend to say.

Meanwhile the world amuses itself — I mean the microcosm on board the steamer: people, ladies not excepted, play cards, drink coffee, and smoke, There is a good opportunity of studying the latest Parisian fashions, as worn by Eoumanian belles ;

DOWN THE DANUBE. 3

they know how to dress, do those handsome girls from Bucharest.

When steam navigation was first established on the Danube, as long ago as 1830, Prince Demidoff remarked, that " in making the Danube one of the great commercial highways of the world, steam had united the East with the West." It was a smart saying, but it was not a thing accomplished when the Prince wrote his Travels, nor is it now; for though the " Danube Steam Navigation Company " have been running their boats for nearly half a century, they are in difficulties, " chiefly/' says Mr Rdvy, 1 "from the neglect of all river improvements between Vienna and Buda-Pest, and between Basiash and Turn-Severin." He goes on to say that the dearest interests of the Austro-Hungarian monarchy are involved in the rectification of the course of the Danube, recommending a Eoyal Commission to be appointed. Those who follow the course of the river may see for themselves how little has been done, and how much remains to be done before it can be safely reckoned one of the great commercial highways of the world.

We had started from Buda-Pest on Monday morning at seven o'clock, and arrived at Basiash at nine

1 The Danube at Buda-Pest. Report addressed to Count Andrassy by J. J. Revy, C.E. 1876.

the following morning. We were fortunate in not having been detained anywhere by shallow water, so often the cause of delay by this route.

Up to the present time Basiash is the terminus of the railway ; it is a depot for coal brought from the interior, and though not out of its teens, is a place fast growing into importance.

As my object was to get to Oravicza in the Banat, I had done with the steamboat, and intended taking the rail to my destination ; but, in the " general cussedness" of things, there turned out to be no train till the evening. I did not at all enjoy the prospect of knocking about the whole day amongst coal-sheds and unfinished houses, with the alternative refuge of the inn, which was swarming with flies and redolent of many evil smells ; so I thought I would find some conveyance and drive over, for the distance was not great. If there is anything I hate, it is waiting the livelong day for a railway train.

There chanced to be an intelligent native close by who divined my thoughts, for I had certainly not uttered them ; he came up, touched me on the arm, and pointed round the corner. Notwithstanding the intense heat of the day, the Wallack, for such he was, wore an enormous sheepskin cloak with the wool outside, as though ready for an Arctic winter. I followed him a few steps to see what he wanted me

A COUNTRY CART. 5

to look at; the movement was quite enough, he regarded it evidently in the light of ready assent, and in the twinkling of an eye he possessed himself of my portmanteau and other belongings, motioned me to follow him, which I did, and then found that my Heaven-sent friend had a machine for hire.

I call it a machine, because it was not like anything on wheels I had seen before : later on I became familiar enough with the carts of the country ; they are long - bodied, rough constructions, wonderfully adapted to the uneven roads. In this case there were four horses abreast, which sounds imposing, as any four-in-hand must always do.

I now asked the Wallack in German if he could drive me to Oravicza, for I saw he had made up his mind to drive me somewhere. To my relief I found he could speak German, at all events a few words. He replied he could drive the "high and nobly born Excellency " there in four hours. The time was one thing, but the charge was quite another affair. His demand was so outrageous that I supposed it was an implied compliment to my exalted rank : certainly it had no adequate reference to the services offered. The fellow asked enough to buy the whole concern outright — cart and four horses ! They were the smallest horses I almost ever saw, and were further reduced by the nearest shave of being absolute skeletons ; the narrow line between sustaining life and actual starvation must have been nicely calculated.

We now entered upon the bargaining phase, a process which threatened to last some time ; all the stragglers in the place assisted at the conference, taking a patriotic interest in their own countryman. The matter was finally adjusted by the Wallack agreeing to take a sixth part of the original sum.

Seated on a bundle of hay, with my things around me, I was now quite ready for the start, but the driver had a great many last words with the public, which the interest in our proceedings had gathered about us. Presently with an air of triumph he took his seat, gave a loud crack or two with his whip, and off we started at a good swinging trot, just to show what his team could accomplish.

We took the road to Weisskirchen, leaving the Danube in the rear. The country was fairly pretty, but nothing remarkable ; fine scenery under the circumstances would have been quite superfluous, for the dust was two feet deep in the road, and the heels of four horses scampering along raised such a cloud of it that we could see next to nothing.

We had not proceeded far when the speed

WETSSKIRCHEN. 7

sensibly relaxed; I fancy the horses went slower that they might listen to what the driver had to say, he talked to them, the whole time. He was not communicative to me ; his knowledge of German seemed limited to the bargaining process, a lesson often repeated, I suspect. As time wore on the heat became almost tropical ; as for the dust, I felt as if I had swallowed a sandbank, and was joyful at the near prospect of quenching my thirst at Weisskirchen, now visible in the distance.

Hungarian towns look like overgrown villages that have never made up their minds seriously to become towns. The houses are mostly of one story, standing each one alone, with the gable-end, blank and windowless, towards the road. This is probably a relic of Orientalism.

Getting up full speed as we approached the town, we clattered noisily over the crown of the causeway, and suddenly making a sharp turn, found ourselves in the courtyard of the inn.

I inquired how long we were to remain here; " A small half-hour/' was the driver's answer. This was my first experience of a Wallack's idea of time, if indeed they have any ideas on the subject beyond the rising and the setting of the sun.

I strolled about the place, but there was not much to be done in the time, and I got very tired of waiting: the "half- hour " was anything but " small ; " however, one must be somewhere, and in Hungary waiting comes a good deal into the day's work. I was rather afraid my Wallack was indulging too freely in slivovitz — otherwise plumbrandy — a special weakness of theirs ; but after an intolerable delay we got off at. last.

Soon after leaving the town we came upon an encampment of gipsies ; their tents looked picturesque enough in the distance, but on nearer approach the illusion was entirely dispelled. In appearance they were little better than savages; children even of ten years of age, lean, mop-headed creatures, were to be seen running about absolutely naked. As Mark Twain said, " they wore nothing but a smile/' but the smile was a grimace to try to extract coppers from the traveller. Two miles farther on we came upon fourteen carts of gipsies, as wild a crew as one could meet all the world over. Some of the men struck me as handsome, but with a single exception the women were terribly unkempt-looking creatures.

It was fully six o'clock before we reached Oravicza; the drive of twenty-five miles had taken eight hours instead of four, as the Wallack had profanely promised.

ORAVICZA. 9

We entered the town with a feeble attempt at a trot, but the poor brutes of horses were dead beat, and neither the pressure of public opinion nor the suggestive cracking of the driver s whip could arouse them to becoming activity.

Oravicza is very prettily situated on rising ground, and the long winding street, extending more than two miles, turns with the valley. Crawling along against collar the whole w r ay, I thought the street would never end. There are very few Magyar inhabitants in this place, which is pretty equally divided between Germans and Wallacks ; the lower part of the toWn belongs to the latter, and is known as Eoman Oravicza, in distinction to Deutsch Oravicza. The population is altogether about seven thousand.

I fancy not many strangers pass this way, for never was a shy Englishman so stared at as this dust-begrimmed traveller. I became painfully selfconscious of the generally disreputable appearance of my cart and horses, the driver and myself, when two remarkably pretty girls tripped by, casting upon me well-bred but amused glances. All the womenkind of Oravicza must have turned out at this particular hour, for I had hardly passed the sisters with the arched eyebrows, when I came upon another group of young ladies, who were laughing and talking together. I think they grew merrier as I approached, and I am quite sure I was hotter than 1 had been all day. " Confound the fellow ! can't he turn into an innyard — anywhere out of the main street ?" thought I, giving my driver a poke. He knew perfectly well where he was about to take me, and no significant gestures of mine hastened him forward in the very least. Presently, without any warning, we did turn into a side opening, but so suddenly that the whole vehicle had a wrench, and the two hind wheels jolted over a high kerbstone. Meanwhile the group of damsels were still in close confab, and I could see took note that the stranger had descended at the Krone. We were all in a heap in the courtyard, but we had to extricate ourselves as best we could, for not a soul was to be seen, though we had made noise enough certainly to announce our arrival.

I pulled repeatedly at the bell before I could rouse the hausknecht, and induce him to make an appearance. At length he deigned to emerge from the recesses of the dirty interior. Having discharged the Wallack in a satisfied frame of mind (he had the best of the bargain after all), I was at leisure to follow mine host to inspect the accommodation he had to offer me. A sanitary commis-

GIPSY MUSTC. 11

sioner would have condemned it, but en voyage comme en voyage. With some difficulty and delay I procured water enough to fill the pie-dish that did duty for the washing apparatus. I had an old relative of extremely Low Church proclivities who was always repeating — for my edification, I suppose — that " man is but dust ;" the dear old lady would have said so in very truth if she had seen me on this occasion.

After supper I strolled into the summer theatre, a simple erection, consisting of a stage at the end of a pretty, shady garden. Seats and tables were placed under the lime-trees, and here the happy people of Oravicza enjoy their amusements in the fresh air, drinking coffee and eating ices. Think of the luxury of fresh air, ye frequenters of London theatres !

The evening was already advanced, the tables were well filled ; groups gathered here and there, sauntering under the greenery, gay with lanterns ; and many a blue-eyed maiden was there, with looks coquettish yet demure, as German maidens are wont to appear.

A concert was going on, and I for the first time heard a gipsy band. Music is an instinct with these Hungarian gipsies. They play by ear, and with a marvellous precision, not surpassed by musicians who have been subject to the most careful training. Their principal instruments are the violin, the violoncello, and a sort of zither. The airs they play are most frequently compositions of their own, and are in character quite peculiar, though favourite pieces from Wagner and other composers are also given by them with great effect. I heard on this occasion one of the gipsy airs which made an indelible impression on my mind ; it seemed to me the thrilling utterance of a people's history. There was the low wail of sorrow, of troubled passionate grief, stirring the heart to restlessness, then the sense of turmoil and defeat ; but upon this breaks suddenly a wild burst of exultation, of rapturous joy — a triumph achieved, which hurries you along with it in resistless sympathy. The excitable Hungarians can literally become intoxicated with this music — and no wonder. You cannot reason upon it, or explain it, but its strains compel you to sensations of despair and joy, of exultation and excitement, as though under the influence of some potent charm.

I strolled leisurely back to the inn, beneath the starlit heavens. The outline of the mountains was clearly marked in the distance, and in the foreground quaint gable-ends mixed themselves up with the shadows &nd the trees — a pretty picture,

AN OLD SCHOOLFELLOW. 13

prettier than anything one can see by the light of "common day."

The following morning I set about making inquiries respecting the mines which I knew existed in the neighbourhood of Oravicza. I found that an English gentleman owned a gold mine in the immediate vicinity, and that he was then living in the town. This induced me to go off at once to call upon him, and I was immediately received in a very friendly manner. This accidental meeting was rather curious, for on comparing notes we found that we had been schoolfellows together

at Westminster. H being my senior, we

had not known each other well ; but meeting here in the wilds, we were as old familiar friends.

H kindly insisted on my leaving the inn and

taking up my quarters with him in his bachelor residence, which was in fact big enough to accommodate a whole form of Westminster boys. I was not at all sorry to avoid a second night at the Krone, and gladly fell into my friend's hospitable arrangements.

I was in great luck altogether, for that very evening a dance was to come off at Oravicza, and my friend invited me to accompany him. Dancingis one of the sins I compound for ; moreover, I had a lively recollection of the bright eyes I had encountered yesterday.

Oravicza is a central place, in a way the chief town of the Banat. It has a pleasant little society, composed of the families of the officials, and of the military stationed there ; they are mostly German by origin. Amongst the belles of the evening I soon discovered my merry critics of yesterday. I was duly presented, and we laughed together over my " first appearance." It was one of the pleasantest evenings I ever remember. I hate long invitations to anything agreeable; this party, for instance, had the charm of unexpectedness. If unfortunately I should prove not quite good enough to go to heaven, I think it would be very pleasant to stop at Oravicza — supposing, of course, that my friends all stopped there as well.

Here I first danced the czardas ; it is an epoch in a man s life, but you must see it, feel it, dance it, and, above all, hear the gipsy music that inspires it. This is the national dance of the Hungarians, favoured by prince and peasant alike. The figures are very varied, and represent the progress of a courtship where the lady is coy, and now retreats and now advances ; her partner manifests his despair, she yields her hand, and then the couple whirl off together to the most entrancing tones of wild music, such as St. Anthony himself could not have resisted.

Chapter II

Consequences of trying to buy a horse — An expedition into Servia — Fine scenery — The peasants of New Moldova — Szechenyi road — Geology of the defile of Kasan — Crossing the Danube — Milanovacz — Drive to Maidenpek — Fearful storm in the mountains — Miserable quarters for the night — Extent of this storm — The disastrous effects of the same storm at Buda-Pest — Great loss of life.

My friend H is the very impersonation of

sound practical sense. The next morning he coolly broke in upon my raptures over the beauty of the Oravicza ladies by saying, "You want to buy a horse, don't you ? "

Of course I did, but my thoughts were elsewhere at the moment, and with some reluctance I took my hat and followed my friend to interview a Wallack who had heard that I was a likely purchaser, and brought an animal to show me. It would not do at all, and we dismissed him.

A little later we went out into the town, and I thought there was a horse-fair ; I should think we met a dozen people at least who came up to accost me on the subject of buying a horse. And such a collection of animals ! — wild colts from the Pustza that had never been ridden at all, and other ancient specimens from I know not where, which could never be ridden again — old, worn-out roadsters. There were two or three good horses, but they were only fit for harness. I was so bothered every time I put my nose out of doors by applications from persons anxious to part with their property in horse-flesh, that I wished I had kept my intentions locked in my own breast. I was pestered for days about this business. There was an old Jew who came regularly to the house three times a-day to tell me of some other paragon that he had found. When he saw that it was really of no use, he then complained loudly that I had wasted his precious time, that he had given up every other occupation for the sake of finding me a horse. I dismissed this Jew, telling him pretty sharply to go about his own business for once, adding that nothing should induce me to buy a horse in Oravicza.

One day H informed me that he was going

over to Servia on a matter of business, and if I liked to accompany him, I should see something of the; country, and perhaps I might find there a horse to suit me. The Servian horses are said to be a useful breed, strong though small, and very enduring for a long march.

COPPER MINES. 17

I was very ready for the expedition, so we hired a leitemvagen, which is in fact a long cart with sides like a ladder, peculiarly suitable for rough work. I was much surprised to find the Hungarians far less often in the saddle than I expected ; it is true, nobody walks, not even the poorest peasant, but they drive, as a rule.

We started one fine July morning in our machine for Moldova on the Danube. The first place we came to was Szaszka, a mining village. Close by are copper mines and smelting- works belonging to the States Railway Company. I was told that they do not pay as well as formerly, owing to the fact that the ore now being worked is poorer than before ; it yields only two per cent, of copper, a very low average. Nothing could well exceed the dirt of Szaszka ; we merely stopped long enough to feed the horses, and were glad to get off again.

On leaving this place the road immediately begins to ascend the mountain, and may be described as a sort of pass over a spur of the Carpathians. It was a very beautiful drive, favoured as we were, too, with fine weather. The road on the northern side is even well made, ascending in regular zigzags. After gaining the summit, we left the post-road that we had hitherto traversed, and took our way to the right, descending through a forest. The varied foliage was very lovely, and the shade afforded us most grateful. It was an original notion driving through such a place, for, according to my ideas, there was no road at all ; but

H , more accustomed to the country, declared

it was not so bad, at least he averred that there were other roads much worse. The jolting we got over the ruts and stones exceeded anything in my previous experience. How the cart kept itself together was a marvel to me, but it accommodated itself by a kind of snakelike movement, not characteristic of wheeled vehicles in general. Except for the honour and glory of driving, I would as lief have walked, and I think have done the journey nearly as soon ; but my friend observed, " It was no good giving into bad roads down'in this part of the world."