America, and American Methodism

Front matter

O H O S5

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Preface

I w^s unexpectedly appointed, by the Wesleyan Conference assembled at Leeds, in August, 1S55, to accompany the Hev. John Hannah, D.D., to the General Conference of the Methodist Episcopal Church of America, which was to open its sessions at Indianapolis, in the valley of the Mississippi, on the 1st of May, 1856. On receiving this appointment, I arranged for my wife's willing participation in our voyage. But this agreeable arrangement had to be given up before the time for my departure arrived. On account of the severe affliction of her aged mother, I had to leave Mrs. Jobson in England. So for my own relief, as well as for the sake of my wife, I wrote home, from different points of our long travel, as frequently and as fully as circumstances would allow.

The following Letters, in substance and in most of their particulars, were thus written home ; and, at the time, without the purpose of publication. I publish them now, not only because friends of sound judgment and experience advise it, but for reasons which viii PREFACE.

seem to me to render their publication, in a great degree, a necessity and a duty.

From the numerous inquiries made of me since my return, and urgent requests to speak and lecture on America, I should, if I were to answer all the inquiries, and yield to all the requests, be in danger of neglecting my ministerial charge. To end this difficulty, and because an account seems due to the ministers and churches in whose name I went, I respectfully present the account in this form.

The false views which are entertained by many in England, through the reading of books containing caricatures rather than true portraits of America, also determine me to publish these Letters. I humbly hope they may tend to correct such views, at least, in the minds of some.

Though written in connection with a particular object, — the interchange of Christian and friendly salutations by kindred churches, — still the following sketches, I trust, will prove of some interest to general readers, as well as to English and American Methodists. They present, at least, frank outlines of the people and their manners, of the cities, scenery, and resources of America, as well as of its Methodism. I have striven to place the truth before readers, and if I fail it is not for want of purity of intent,

I must, of course, anticipate one objection to these sketches, — that they are the production of a mere visitor to a great country, and not of one long resident

PREFACE. IX

in it, and therefore not likely to have sound impressions of it. But I reply that the true characteristics of a people and of a country are often best seen by fresh eyes, and that they often lose force by long familiarity, so as to render failings undistinguishable from weak excellences. The best impressions from an engraved plate are those taken while it is new, and while the lines are fresh and clear. So it is with impressions from the mind, especially when they have been placed on paper amid the scenes and objects described. The poet Gray — no dull observer himself — has said that a word written on the spot is worth a cart-load of recollections. The saying encourages me to hope for a cordial acceptance of these sketches with the general reader, as well as with my Methodist brethren. And I congratulate myself that I have so far succeeded as to satisfy the mind of the Rev. Dr. Hannah, with its delicate appreciations. He having been present with me in the scenes described, has at my request read the Letters, that, if necessary, he might correct me in any erroneous view I might have taken. The following is his letter upon what I have written.

R J. J.

Didsbury, Manchester, April 20th, 1857.

My deah Mr. Jobson, — I have read your Letters on " America, and American Methodism" with great satisfaction, and beg to express my personal thanks to you for the care and pains which you have taken in the preparation of them. They vividly recall to mind the scenes and events through which we passed in our late happy companionship, and which were of too extraordinary a character ever to be forgotten. To the fidelity of your descriptions, as well as to their beauty and force, I give my willing testimony. You will also permit me to mention the peculiar gratification which you have afforded to me in what you relate of the Methodist Episcopal Church generally, of the ever dear and honoured ministers and friends with whom we enjoyed so pleasing a fellowship, and of the virtues and lives of exemplary saints departed. I follow you with affectionate sympathy in the details which you supply of the enthralled negro race, and of the Indian tribes, now, alas ! so visibly fading away. The composition of your Letters, with their genial tone and spirit, will, I doubt not, commend them to your readers of every class. And I trust that the effect of the whole will prove to be auxiliary to that closer fraternal union between the two large families of Methodism, which it was the object of our mission to promote ; while it will not be unfriendly to a freer interchange of kindly sentiments and feelings between the two chief communities of the Anglo-Saxon race. Believe me to be, my dear Mr. Jobson,

Yours ever, most truly,

John Hannah.

To the Rev. Frederick J. Jobson.

Letter I. Pa'.e

Departure from Liverpool — Passage down the Mersey and into the Irish Sea — Early Auxiety and Discomfort of Voyagers — First Dinner "on Buard" — The "Africa" Steamship and its Accommodations— Sketch of Character among Passengers — The Atlantic — ■ Perilous Storm — Awful Night Scene — Claims of Seamen for Remembrance— Sabbath Service — The Gulf Stream — Dangerous Fog — Sudden transition into Smooth Water — New York Bay .... 1

Letter II. New York

Fair way of judging of an American City and of American Manners — General Sketch of New York — Broadway— Monster Hotels — American Ladies — Mixed Population — Tone of Equality — Unforeign feeling of an Englishman when he lands in America — Evening Party — Newspapers, Arts, Institutions, Churches, &c, in New York — Methodism — -Novel Pulpit — Sabbath Services — Rise of Methodism in New York

Letter III. Philadelphia

Mingled Annoyances and Pleasures of Railway Travelling in America — Route through New Jersey — Arrival at Philadelphia — Scene among the Negro Coachmen — Provoking Indifference of American Hotel-keepers — Hotel Life in America — Exposure of the Young to Injurious Influences — Order and Repose of the Quaker City — Appearance of the Streets and Public Buildings — Methodism in Philadelphia — The Hall of Independence — Franklin's Tomb 40

Xll CONTENTS.

LETTER IY.

WASHINGTON.

PAGB

Railway Journey over Slave Territory— Arrival at Washington — Unfilled-up Plan of the City — Population and Vice — Manners of the " Representatives " — Gaiety of Dress — Dandy Negroes — The Negro Bazaar — The Capitol — Houses of Congress — Scene in the House of Representatives — Contrast to the British House of Commons — Political Parties in the United States — President's House — Congress Chaplains — Terrific Thunderstorm— Plainness of the American Chief Magistrate 58

LETTEE Y.

BALTIMORE.

Origin of the City — General Description of it — American Aristocracy — Coloured Population — Evils of Slavery — The "Liberia" Project — "Washington Monument "—"Battle Monument"— " Green Mount Cemetery" — Methodist Cemetery, or, "the Mount of Olives" — Importance of Methodism in Baltimore — Relics of Early Methodism — Record of Early Labourers — Coloured Churches of Methodists — Preaching and Memorable Scene of Excitement at the African Methodist Church in Sharpe Street — Scriptural Hopes for the Emancipation of the Enslaved Race 75

LETTER YL

THE ALLEGHANY MOUNTAINS. — CINCINNATI.

Railway from Baltimore to Cumberland — Company of Methodist Ministers— The River Potomac — Town of Cumberland — Hotel Customs, and Iced Water — Striking View from the Hill above Cumberland — Railway over the Alleghauies — Character of the Scenery — Town of Wheeling— Policy which dictated the Formation of the great Railway to the West — Names of American Towns — Free State of Ohio — The located Minister — Horrors of Slavery — The Ohio River — Kentucky left behind — Arrival at Cincinnati 92

LETTER YIL

INDIANAPOLIS.

State of Indiana : its Rapid Growth— The City of Indianapolis— His Excellency the Governor and his House— Methodism in the State and iu the City — Public Religious Services — American Preaching — A Bishop's Sermon— The Sabbath School— A Love-feast— American Fires— Political Life— A Stump Orator— The Ballot-box— An Inner Circle in American Society— Southern Visitors— Glimpses of Slave -life— An Irishman's Bull— Ministerial Intercourse— Sad I "NWa

from England ews

• . . JOo

CONTENTS. Xlll

LETTER VIII.

PEOGEESS OF METHODISM IN AMERICA FEOM 1773 TO 1792.

PAGE

Early Labourers: Embury, "Webb, Boardman, Pilmoor, Asbury, Strawbridge, and Williams — Spiritual Lifelessness of other Churches ; and their Quickening, by the Introduction of Methodism — Laudable Example of the Rev. Mr. Jarratt, a Clergyman of the Established Church — Mr. Rankin sent by Mr. Wesley — Question of the Sacramental Ordinances — Disturbing Effect of the Revolution on Methodism— Sufferings of the Preachers— Settlement of the Country, and Re -organisation of Methodism — Labours of Bishop Asbury, Garrettson, and Jesse Lee — First General Conference, and Revision of the Constitution of American Methodism 126

LETTER IX.

PEOGEESS OP METHODISM IN AMEEICA PEOM 1792 TO THE

PEESENT TIME.

Continued Persecution, Privation, and Difficulty of the Preachers and Missionaries — Forest Preaching — Remarkable Outpouriugs of the Holy Spirit, and Striking Conversions — Camp -meetings — Great Multitudes assembled, and Extraordinary Good effected — Revival at Baltimore — Extension of Methodism to Canada — Union of Canadian and British Methodism — Present Prosperity of Canadian Methodism — Energy of Methodism in the United States — Its Vast Undertakings— Not Free from Division and Disturbance — Slavery — Separation of North from South — Charges against F. A. Harding and Bishop Andrew — Resolutions of Northern Methodism against Slavery — Fraternal Communication of British Methodism with Anti- Slavery Methodism in America 143

LETTER X.

METHODIST LABOTTEEES IN AMEEICA.

Francis Asbury — Dr. Coke — Asbury's Peculiar Adaptations for America— His Capacity for Labour — His Tirelessness in Travelling — His Abnegation of Self — His Primitive Manners — His Economy and Charity — Anecdote of the sceptical Doctor — Last Days of Asbury ■ — His last Sermon and triumphant Death — His Convert, Punch, the Negro — Punch becomes a Preacher — Conversion of the persecuting Overseer — Punch's Old Age — His Prayer answered — His happy Death 156

XIV CONTENTS.

LETTER XL

METHODIST LABOURERS IN AMERICA.

PAGE

Bishop M'Kendree— Clearness of his Conversion — Doubts his Call to the Ministry — His Prejudices against Bishop Asbury dispelled, and his entire devotedness to Methodism — His Labours in the West, and his personal Holiness and Success — Elected Bishop — Companionship with Asbury — Pleasing Camp-meeting Scene — M'Kendree's Farewell to his Brethren — His last Days and happy Departure — Bishop George — Habits of Prayer — Powers as a Preacher — Kindliness of Spirit — Anecdote of the Young Preacher and the Bishop — Freeborn Garrettson — His happy Face and happy Character— Remarkable Conversion — Sets Free his Negroes — His Ministry — Suffering for Christ — Pleasant old Age — Rapturous Death — Jesse Lee — Bishop Roberts — Bishop Heading — Bishop Emory — John Easter— Dr. Stephen Oliu, &c 172

LETTER XII.

THE GENERAL CONFERENCE AT INDIANAPOLIS.

Appearance of the Assembly — The Bishops — The Delegates from the Far West — Patriarchal Labourers — Their Jealousy of Declension — Style of their Oratory — Dr. Jacob Young — Dr. Peter Cartwright, or "Uncle Peter" — His Preaching — Strange Anecdote — "Father Finley" — His Indian Labours — Squire " Grey Eyes," the Indian Preacher — Affecting Scene in the Conference — Order and Courtesy of the Conference — Its Reception of Foreign Representatives . . . 202

LETTER XIII.

THE GENERAL CONFERENCE AT INDIANAPOLIS.

Election of officers — Calling the Roll of Delegates — Appointment- of Committees— Opening Address of the Bishops — Statistics of American Methodism — Education and Literature— Coloured People's College — Periodicals — Missions to the Far West — To the Indians — To Settlers from Germany, the North of Europe, &c. — To Liberia, to Sweden, Norway, &c. &c. — Status of Methodism in America— The new Proposition respecting Slave-holding Members — Judgment of the Bishops thereon 220

LETTER XIY.

THE GENERAL CONFERENCE AT INDIANAPOLIS.

Conference Business— Nature of Committees and their Mode of Procedure—Chief Subjects of Interest in the Proceedings of Conference- New Metropolitan Church for New York— The Bible Cause— Cause of Religious Education— Appeals from Censured and Expelled Ministers— Extension of Time for a Minister's Stay in a Circuit— Dis cussion respecting the Office of "Presiding Elder"— Grand DpWp respecting Slavery ... Ua "Uebate „

CONTENTS. XV

LETTER XV.

SLAVERY IN AMERICA.

PAGE

Modified Character of Slavery in Towns — Enormity of its Evils in the South, and on the Plantations — Its Corrupting Influences both on the Families of Slaveholders and on the Slaves — Sophism, that Slaves are " Happy and Contented," exposed, and also the assertion that their Condition is Analogous to that of the English Operative — ■ Nationally Disorganising tendencies of Slavery — Hopes for its Extermination from existing Agencies: and Confidence that it will he brought to an End, founded on the Divine Character 252

LETTER XVI.

THE NORTH AMERICAN INDIANS.

Peculiar Look of the Race— Mongolian Descent— Noble Original Qualities— Hospitality and Bravery — Degraded State of Woman — Rapidly decreasing number of Red Men — Christian Labourers among them — John Stewart, the Negro — Father Finley — Indian Converts and Preachers— Remarkable Occurrence among the "Flat Head" Indians — Banishment of the Red Race to the Far West — Melancholy Prospect of their Extinction 271

LETTER XVII.

THE MISSISSIPPI, AND THE FAR WEST.

Our "Farewell" to the Conference, and Departure from Indianapolis — Railway to St. Louis — Forests and Prairies— Gigantic Scale of American Scenery— Rapid Glance at St. Louis — Embarkment on the Mississippi — Confluence with the Missouri — River Scenery — Magnificent Night Scene — Importance of the " Valley of the Mississippi " — River Steamer and Company — " Snags" and " Sawyers " — Squatting Wood-Cutters — The Mississippi by Night — Landing at Quincy . . 287

LETTER XVIII.

PRAIRIE LAND, CHICAGO, DETROIT, AND THE GREAT LAKES.

Departure from Quincy — The Prairie — Prairie Fires — Richness of Prairie Soil — Destruction of Cattle on American Railways — "Off the Line" — General Tom Thumb — Neighbourhood of Nauvoo — Thoughts on Mormonism — Its Future in the Stales — Chicago — Amazing Rapidity of its Growth — Meeting with Friends — Drive round the City — Magical haste with which People get Rich in Chicago— Family Party — The Lady's Question — Departure from Chicago—Arrival at Detroit — Sabbath spent there — Account of Churches and Services — Voyage to Buffalo — The Great Lakes of America — Sketch of Buffalo City — Arrival at Niagara 305

XVI CONTENTS.

LETTER XIX.

THE PALLS OP NIAGARA.

PAGE

Source of the Falls from the Great Lakes — The River of Niagara — The Whirlpool — The Rapids— Goat Island — The American Fall — Luna Island— The Middle Fall — The Canada, or, "Horse-shoe" Fall — Retrogression of the Falls according to Geologists — View of the Falls from the Hotel Balcony — View of the River Bank — From " Prospect Place " — From the Bridge over the Rapids — Landing on Goat Island — "Prospect Tower"— The "Cave of Winds"— The Falls by Moonlight — Legends and Tales of Horror respecting the Falls 327

LETTER XX.

CANADA. — "VVESLEYAN CONFERENCE AT BROCKVILLE.

Railway from the Falls along the Line of the Niagara River — Lake Ontario— Arrival at Toronto- — Methodist Friends — Sabbath Services at Toronto — Sketch of Toronto — Great Normal Schools — Dr. Ryerson — Illness of Peter Jones, or " Kahkewaquonaby," the Methodist Indian Chief — Canadian Parliament — Mackenzie, and Scene in the House of Representatives — Loyal Attachment of Canada to England — Lake Ontario, the " Thousand Islands," and the St. Lawrence — Arrival at Brockville — Proceedings of the Conference — Railways in Canada — Resources and Prosperity of the Country — Arrival at Montreal . . 349

LETTER XXI.

LAKE CHAMPLAIN, BOSTON, AND ALBANY.

Departure from Montreal — Railway-ticket Sharpers — Beauty of Lake Champlain — Town of Burlington — Brief Separation from Dr. Hannah — State of Massachusets — Its English Features — Glance at its History— Boston — Sketch of the City — Wooden Bridges— State House— Chantrey's Statue of Washington — Faneuil Hall — Ancient "Timber Houses" — Public Buildings and Monuments— Ascendancy of Unitarianism— Theodore Parker— Departure from Boston— The Infidel in the Railway Car— Striking Scenery— Albany — Description of the City— Churches and Sects— The Shakers— Sabbath in Albany 365

LETTER XXII.

HUDSON RIVER, BROOKLYN, AND VOYAGE HOME.

Scenery of the Hudson— The "Crow's Nest"— Tappan's Bay— The "Palisades"— Hills of Hoboken— Return to New York— Visit to Brooklyn— Dr. Hannah's Sermon, and Farewell of Methodist Friends in New York— Re-embarkment onboard the Jfnca— Voyage Home wards— Passengers— Sabbath Services on board— Sinomg^r.,,., • Sight— Summary of Thoughts on America . . . ... . 382

Appendix. Report on Slavery

• • . oJO

AMERICA,

AND

AMERICAN METHODISM,

Letter I. Voyage Over The Atlantic

Departure from Liverpool — Passage down the Mersey and into the Irish Sea — Early Anxiety and Discomfort of Voyagers — First Dinner " on Board" — The " Africa" Steamship and its Accommodations — Sketch of Character among Passengers — The Atlantic — Perilous Storm — Awful Night Scene — Claims of Seamen for Remembrance — Sabbath Service — The Gulf Stream — Dangerous Fog — Sudden transition into Smooth "Water

— New York Bay.

Atlantic Ocean.

The "Africa" steamship,

By the good providence of God we are now approaching the American shores. The sea is smoother than it was during the former part of our passage ; and, as I have now more leisure than I shall be likely to find immediately after landing, I write for you, on board, a letter on our voyage across the Atlantic.

On separating from you and the many kind friends who accompanied us to the steamship, on the morning of April 5th, I felt, for a time, a sense of desolation such as I never experienced before. I had heart-yearnings towards home and Old England that cannot be described. Yet I remembered, as the anchor was raised,

B and the paddle-wheels began to move, that some of the emigrants on deck, and some of their friends on shore, must be experiencing deeper pangs of separation ; such as the Prophet of Sorrows may be said to describe, when he says — " Weep ye not for the dead, neither bemoan him ; but weep sore for him that goeth away : for he shall return no more, nor see his native country." I lingered long against the back rail of the vessel, looking upon you and our friends, until all dwindled to mere specks ; and at length Liverpool itself faded from my view. Dr. Hannah, with his own considerate and fatherly kindness, took my arm, drew me towards him for a walk on deck, and spoke most encouragingly of the presence of God, both, with us and with those we had left on land. This turned my mind to the unfailing Source of strength and consolation ; and with prayers to heaven for you, and for my people in Bradford, my heart gradually disburdened itself, so that I could enter into conversation on what was before us in our voyage and mission. Our passage down the Mersey was favourable ; the sun shone brightly upon us ; a sharp, brisk breeze filled our sails ; and, borne onwards both by wind and steam, we speedily cut our way out of the river's mouth, and stood out to sea.

For a time the water was comparatively smooth, and most of the passengers were seen walking to and fro upon the deck ; but as we increased our distance from land the water became more and more broken, and the walking of passengers sensibly diminished. And now, at intervals, the ship began to lurch, so as to make this diminished number halt in their movements, and stagger in all directions before they could regain their balance. Earnest questions were proposed by many to the captain and other officers concerning the prospects of the weather and the voyage ; and as eager were the inquiries made by the passengers among themselves, as to their being "good sailors." The captain and his men showed the most considerate patience in answering the same questions again and again. Some of the passengers shook their heads in doubt of what would be their fate as to sea-sickness ; but others expressed themselves more confidently, and told how often they had been to sea without suffering any discomfort whatever. Soon, however, several of these more confident sailors began to lose the colour from their cheeks and lips, and an ashy paleness spread itself over their faces ; while cushioned seats, carpet-stools, caps, and cloaks came into great request. With the more bilious of our fellow-passengers, sea-sickness had already commenced ; and some of them, hastening to their berths below, disappeared altogether from our view. The weather gave signs of change, hazy clouds spread overhead ; Snowdon and the Welsh mountains on our left were still bathed in sunshine, but the great Lancashire sand-bank on our right grew dark and grim, while the sea lost its translucent green, and partook largely of the grey, leaden aspect of the sky.

At four o'clock the dinner-bell rang, when as many of us as were able crowded into the large, sumptuous saloon ; and we arranged ourselves at the two long tables. The provisions were good and most abundant. The company seemed eager for their first meal on board ; and many were the observations we overheard as to what was safest and best to be eaten and drunk at sea. Soon, however, our number at the tables was thinned. As the smoking viands were brought in by the steward and his assistants, and placed before the p-uests, one after another of them suddenly clutched his hat, and unceremoniously hurried away into the open air. Strong, sturdy-looking men, who had evidently braved many a danger on land, grew deathly pale at the sight of a boiled fish, or a pair of headless fowls ; and even stern, moustachioed soldiers fled at the sight of the boiled leg of a dead sheep. To me, who have happily been entirely free from sea- sickness all the way, it has been somewhat curious to observe how several of those who sat down with us at that first day's meal, and seemed so earnest in claiming their place at table, have ever since most scrupulously shunned the saloon at dinner-hour — fleeing from it before the very first note of the bell was heard. Some who were with us on the deck, and in high spirits when we started, have confined themselves to their berths, from their sudden disappearance on that first day of our voyage until the present, when we are getting into smooth water again. So that, if one had not seen them at the beginning, it would now be natural to suppose that, in the last night, we had made an unknown call on our way, and had received on board a large increase of company. But no ; from the first sharp turn of our paddle-wheels in the river Mersey, at twelve o'clock at noon on Saturday, the 5th of April, the ponderous engine has never ceased its regular and powerful movement; and crowded as the decks are now, we have not one more person on board than we had at our departure. Happily, I can add, that we have not one less : of the 300 souls or more that left Liverpool with us, all are still living, by the gracious providence of Almighty God.

It is to be remarked, that the greater number of sufferers from sea-sickness, in a voyage like this from England, are foreigners. One reason for this is no doubt to be found in the greasy vegetable mixtures they take at their meals, in the place of more substantial food. And of all pitiable objects to be seen anywhere, most assuredly there is not one more so than a sea-sick foreigner, huddled up in cap and cloak by the ship's funnel, and expressing his bitter inward nausea by significant shrugs and grimaces.

Indeed, notwithstanding all the fine things that have been written and sung of the sea, I am satisfied, from what I have seen and learned in this voyage, that it is not a cradle for physical ease and enjoyment. It is well for the interests of merchants and travellers that some men choose to spend their lives chiefly upon it. It must be the native love of enterprize, and, in some degree, delight in daring dangers, which impel seamen to their occupation. It cannot be the love of gain, for they are proverbially reckless of money generally. I suspect, however, that even seamen look to the land for their highest gratification. Men usually think of heaven under the imagery of what is most joyous to them on earth ; but I question whether any sailor ever imagined his heavenly Paradise to be at sea. But whatever the sea may be to seamen, undoubtedly it is the scene of concentrated inconveniences to landsmen ; and is not to be resorted to by them for recreation and pleasure. Confined within the narrow range of the ship's decks by day, shut up in a closet-dungeon (miscalled a "state-cabin") by night, and where he has to squeeze himself within a straitened coffin-like berth, and to try to sleep in an unventilated atmosphere, while the heavy billows are thumping under him, and heavy sleepers are snoring around him, — the sea certainly is not the realisation of rest and freedom, even for the best accommodated landsman voyager.

All that could possibly be done for the relief and accommodation of passengers on board the Africa has really been done for them. Our ship is large and good ; she is well- shaped, tightly-built, and clean throughout. Our day-saloon is more than comfortable — it is really superb in its furniture and fittings. Our captain, whose name is " Shannon," is an able, watchful seaman ; and all the officers and sailors are orderly and obliging in the performance of their respective duties.

The passengers, too, have been sociable and well-behaved. There is among them great diversity both of look and language. We have on board natives of nearly all parts of Europe, as well as persons from different parts of America. And yet we have had no disturbance or contention, but have every day assembled and sat together in the saloon as if we were in a peace-congress of nations. The only exception to this amicable association has been a renegade Englishman, who, with assumed swagger, tried to pass himself off for a native and enthusiastic American ; but this only afforded amusement, and produced no angry feeling. He has boastfully obtruded his opinions on the great superiority of America over all other countries before the company, until they instinctively combined to retort upon him, and to put him down; but he proved to be a dextrous antagonist, and able to make his way, in one manner or another, out from the most closely encircling difficulties. For instance, a patriotic Canadian, contending for the superiority of the Engglish over the Americans, observed, "The Eno-Hsft Hve longer." " True," said the other, " but that does not prove superiority; for the real reason for the shorter life of the Americans is, that having seen and done in the world all that can be seen and done in it sooner, they die and leave it sooner, having the sooner fulfilled their mission in it." This seemed to be the very climax of repartee on such a subject, and for a time the wordy strife was ended.

There are several passengers of sufficient mark on board to render them memorable with me in after-life. There is a dark, soft, luscious- eyed Spaniard who is going out as consul to the States, and who has complained loudly of the fortnight's misery of sea-sickness which he has experienced ; there is a large, woolly-headed gentleman who has talked almost incessantly of what he has seen and learned of the relations of England and America ; there is a medical officer retired from the service of the East India Company, and who, with his two military-looking sons, is proceeding to his estate in Canada ; there is a mild, placid gentleman who, with his early-fading wife, is returning from a year's tour on the continent of Europe and in Egypt ; there are Mr. Virtue, the enterprising publisher, and his intelligent and agreeable lady, who are crossing the Atlantic for a three months' tour in the western world; there are Messrs. Betts and Brassey, the great railway contractors, going out to superintend the completion of the trunk-line in Canada ; there is a tall, upright Quaker who, in company with his two sons, is on his way to attend a convention of Friends about to be held in Philadelphia ; there are dark, sallow-faced Spaniards, with ample finger-rings and abundance of gold and jewelry, returning to Cuba ; — these, and others of mark and interest, have walked, conversed, and lounged together by day, and in the evening have grouped themselves together at the tables according to their respective tastes and amusements. But with all their great variety of character and pursuit, I have not heard or seen anything in their conduct censurable on the ground of morality; I have not witnessed any excessive drinking of wine or spirituous liquors; I have not heard a profane word spoken ; and, with the one ludicrous exception named, there has been an evident endeavour to be mutually agreeable.