Spain, Tangier, etc. visited in 1840 and 1841

Front matter

SPAIN, TANGIER, etc. VISITED IN 1840 AND 1841. Bv X. Y. Z. LONDON: SAMUEL CLARKE, 13 PALL MALL EAST. 1845. LONDON : PRINTED BV BEYNELL AND WEIGHT, LITTLE PULTF.NEY STREET. NOTICE. [During a continued tour of between three and four years by a family party, one of them forwarded, from time to time, to a very near Relative, Letters descriptive of the proceedings of the travellers — the countries — people, &c. These " Letters" were not intended for publication, nor could the Writer, nor the Relative, then contemplate that they would ever meet the public eye. Something more than eight months of the Tour were passed in Spain, including an excursion to Tangier. — The extraordinary changes which have taken place in Spain since the overthrow of Espartero, and the deep interest taken in the affairs of that country, produced in the mind of the Relative the wish to print some copies for private distribution ; this wish, NOTICE.

IV however, has ripened into a determination to take upon himself the office of Editor, and to submit to the public such of the Letters as were written during those eight months — hence this publication. The Editor, however, has struck out of the "Letters" not only all that related to family concerns, but the names of individuals gene rally — anecdotes concerning persons in Spain, which, under the present state of that country, it might not be agreeable to them to have published — and also many passages on various subjects, which — however excellent in them selves — might be considered by the general reader as irrelevant. The Editor fears that inaccuracies may have arisen in consequence of these omissions; and also from the handwriting and state of the original letters ; but, above all, from his not having had the assistance of — nor indeed any communication with — the Writer, who, it happens, is not in this country, and has been kept ignorant of the Editor's intention to publish.

Under these circumstances, the Editor feels that an apology is due to the Writer of the " Letters " for their publication, and he tenders it accordingly. He cannot, however, venture so far as to add the name of the Writer. The Editor has added a few Notes, to which he has made numeral references in the body of NOTICE. V the "Letters." The statements in such Notes are derived from various but unquestionable sources ; several of them, indeed, are extracted from other Letters or papers of the same Writer, in the Editor's possession.] May 19, 1845. LETTERS FROM SPAIN, fye. sfc.

Letter I

Biaritz — Delightful bathing there — Bayonne — Pyrenees — Comparison between, and the Alps — Dangers of Equestrian travelling — Spanish gallantry — View at Sunrise from the Pic du midi de Bigorre — Sudden blindness of guide — Sleepy Englishman — Breche de Boland. Biaritz, 29th August, 1840. Our rambles through the Pyrenees being at length over, my dear * * * *, we have come to a stand at this bttle sea-girt, primitive village ; wliich, spite of its humble appearance and poor accommodation, more than pleases me. The air is so invigorating, the sands are so delightful, the rocks so bold, and tbe sea view from its low green hills so fine, that it has to my mind an inexpressible charm, which many much more beautiful places cannot boast. Then, you have tbe enjoyment of perfect freedom — worth B BAYONNE. a world ; — besides tbe amusement of watching the bathers in a sweet, sunny little creek, that seems made for the purpose, flanked on all sides by rising grounds, where you can sit undisturbed for hours.

All ages, sexes, and sizes, splash about in this spot at once ; attired accordingly of course. The beautiful swimming of some, and in rough weather, the cap sizing of dozens by the foaming breakers, accompanied by the hearty laugh and the scream, half of fear and half of fun, render the scene one of great entertainment and even interest to us all ; and, en joyed as it is, under the vault of heaven, — in the fresh sea-breeze, — with the picturesque rocks, the glancing, gleaming waves, and the lovely bay bordered by the distant Pyrenean hills, before us — we find it altogether productive of far more pleasure, than many a spectacle for which gold and health and composure are daily lavished in vain. The moment you leave the coast, however, the charm is over ; as there is nothing but sandy, un wooded ground to be seen for about a league between Biaritz and Bayonne.

The latter is a handsome, bustbng, animated city, with a spice of Spain in it already ; some of the shops exhibit bills and notices in Spanish, and the Spanish language frequently strikes your ear in the streets. Tbe town is well fortified ; and has pleasing walks and drives about it, and fine views from the heights. As to the Pyrenees, — of wbich you complain CONTENTS. IX

LETTER X. PAGE

Adventures on the road from Madrid to Seville— A " Fix" — Spanish phlegm — Cordova— Second Fix — Ecija— Genuine Spanish Posada — Kindness and good feeling of the Spanish people — their buoyant mirth — Mock Pronunciamiento — Incident near Cordova — Mayoral and Muleteer — Carmona — Alcala — Arrival at Seville — Kindness of a Tailor — Robbery of one of the Diligencias — Competition of Coach-owners — The "Catalan" — The "Caleseros" . . . . . . . .164

LETTER XI.

Road from Madrid to Seville— Aranjuez — Ocana— District of La Mancha — Molinos de Viento — Madrigalejos — Puerto Lapiche — Manzanares— Val de Penas— Sierra Morena— Colony of Germans—Santa Cruz— Santa Elena and Carolina — Baylen — Andujar — Andalucia— Olive Plantations — Country Houses — Irrigation — Cordova — The Mosque — Ecija — Moncloba— Venta de la Portuguesa — Innkeeper— Carmona — Custom houses, &c. . . 182

LETTER XII.

Seville — Guadalquivir — Bridge of Boats — Cleanliness of Houses — Whitewashing — Balconies — Jalousies — Narrowness ofthe Streets — Irregularity of — Numerous Churches — Beggars — The Environs — The "Delicias"— Orange Grounds— The Patios — The Alcazar —The Cathedral— Reflections— The Bells— The Sala Capitular- Paintings — Badness of Flour at Seville — Bread of Alcala — Musquitoes — Fabrica de Tabaco — Marine School — Casa de Ayuntamiento — The Lonja or Exchange — Library — Writings of Columbus and Cortez — Cigar Smoking — Casa de Pilatos — Hospital " de la Sangre " — Circus for Bull-fights — Plaza de la Encarnacion — Roman Antiquities — Paseo de Christina — Public masked Ball — Service and Dance in the Cathedral — Society — Dress — Population — Diligences — Steam-boats — Literature — Hotel " Fonda de la Reyna " — Spanish Guitars ..... 199

LETTER XIII.

Unanticipated arrival in Africa — Tangier — Varied Population of — Shops — Coffee-houses— Music — English Consul-General and Queen's Agent — Great kindness of himself and of all his Family — Narrative of quitting Seville — The " Quivir"— Flamingoes- San Lucar — Cadiz — Streets— Ramparts — Passage to Gibraltar — English Ship— Delight on getting on Board— Old England — Effects of Travelling — The English — General character of — Gibraltar— Felucca— Reefians — Landing — Hamet and Salam — CONTENTS. X letter xm — continued. PAGE Character of Moors — Hatred to Foreigners — Instances of Ferocity and Violence to — Corruption and Tyranny of Government and its Oflicers— Pasha of Tangier — Bastinado— Swedish Consul- General — Atrocious act of Cruelty of the Emperor — Danger to Europeans in Travelling — Davidson — Belzoni — French Traveller to Timbuctoo — Moors hatred to French — The Nasturtium — Stationary Condition of the Moors — Dress — Articles of Furniture — Pottery — Tools — Market place— Mohammedan Beads — Bazaars — The " Fondak" — Public and Private Buildings — Ulemahs — Saints — Hereditary descent of — Jews' Synagogue — Importance of Jews at Tangier— Tetuan . . . . .236

LETTER XIV.

Walk into the Country — Mount Abyla — Mount Washington — Lion and Saint — Admiral Saumarez — Attack on French and Spanish fleet— Cape Espartel — Gardens of the Consuls — Dates — The Pasha — His mode of travelling — Moorish Cemetery — View of Tangier — Supposed site of the ancient Tingis — Sacrifice of the Lamb — Wedding procession — Funeral procession — Coffee-house — Former state of the Moors in Spain— Expectation of Improvement — Visit to Moorish married woman — Description of her apartments and dress— Polygamy rare among the Moors — General good conduct of the Husband — Seclusion of the Women — Remarks on — Visit of a Jewess— Apartments and dress of — Negro slave child — Begging stroller — Religious prejudice against numbering the people — Residence and food of the travelling party — Scotch Hostess - Kooskoosoo — House tops — Parasols and Umbrellas— Call to Prayer . . . . . .271

LETTER XV.

Arrival at Granada — Passage from Tangier to Gibraltar — Gallant action of an English ship of war — Passage from Gibraltar to Malaga. — Malaga — The Alcazaba — English Consul — Galley-slaves — Iron Foundries — Terral Wind — Castanets — Journey to Granada — Description of the Country, &c — Roads — Robbers — Brigands — Anecdotes of — Neighbourhood of Granada — Ventas — Gazpacho — Want of Accommodation — Neglect of Travellers — Town of Loja — Soto de Roma. — Vega of Granada — View of Granada — Sierra Nevada — Fonda del Comercio .... 298

LETTER XVI.

The Alhambra — Torres Vermejas— Mateo Ximenes— Legend of the Hand and Key — Torre de la Vela— Torre de Siete Suelos — Boabdil— The Phantom "Belludo"— Earthquakes— Palace of Charles V — Patio del Estanque-" Court of Lions" — "Sala de Comares" — The Fountains— Paintings in "Sala del Tribunal" CONTENTS. XI letter XVI — continued. PAGE —The " Jeneralife " — Story of Moracin and the Abencerrage — Immense Walnut Tree— The Jenil and the Darro — Colony of Gitanos — Prospects — " Ultimo suspiro del Moro " — Environs of Granada ........ 318

LETTER XVII.

Excursion — Dangerous Walk — Sagro Monte — Nero's Ovens — Viva Rambla — Zacatin —Alcayceria — The Cathedral — Convents — Church of San Geronimo — San Juan de Dios — " Camarin de la Virgen" — TheTown — Houses — Society in Granada — EasterEve — Pick-pockets — Anecdotes — Three Alcaldes — Robbery of an Englishman — Corruption of Oflicers of Justice — Despair of Spaniards of the Improvement of their Country — Danger of Travelling — Intention to visit Murcia — Reasons for returning to Malaga — Different Routes — Robbery of British Officers — Regret at leaving Granada — Attachment of Moors to Granada . . . 334

LETTER XVIII.

Arrival at Valencia — Journey — Loja — Malaga — Almeria — Cartagena — Journey to Murcia — Huerta of — Dark Skin of Murcians — Entrance to Murcia — Wretchedness of the Inn — "Casas de Pupillos" — Excessive Heat — Cathedral —Mulberry Crops — Silkworms — "Tartana" — Cochineal — Cactus — Orihuela— Elche — Date Palms — Alicant — Journey to Valencia — Irritable Frenchman and Spanish Mosquetero — Montesa — Tlie Jukar — The Bridge — Plain of and Approach to Valencia — Arrival — Fonda de la Diligencia . . . . .351

LETTER XIX.

Arrival at Marseilles — Description of Valencia — The Rambla. — The Drive — Cathedral — Lonja de la Seda — Sederias — Mantillas — Paintings and Anecdote of a Don Pedro — Rejoicings on Espartero being appointed sole Regent— The Huerta of Valencia — Patois — Voyage to Barcelona -Puig— Tarragona — Barcelona — Fonda de las Cuatro Naciones — Cathedral — Farewell to Spain — Portvendre— Storm — Gulf of Lyons— Arrival at Marseilles — Environs ....... . 374 Notes ........ CONTENTS

LETTER I. PAGE

Biaritz — Delightful bathing there — Bayonne — Pyrenees — Comparison between, and the Alps — Dangers of Equestrian travelling — Spanish gallantry — View at Sunrise from the Pic du midi de Bigorre — Sudden blindness of guide — Sleepy Englishman — Breche de Roland . . . . . 1

Letter II

Arrival at Madrid — First Impressions — Disappointment — Spanish Costume superseded by French Fashions — Mantilla — Spanish Ladies ........ 15

Letter III

Different styles of Travelling — Spanish Diligence — Coupe — Muleteers — Mules — Road from the Pyrenees — Villareal — Ascarga— Vitoria — Pancorbo — Burgos — Want of Cultivation — Prejudice against trees — Madrid — Absence of entourage — Want of Population in the Country — Desolation— Hernani — Guards, retired Banditti — Black Mail— Fresnillo — Spanish Posadas — Beds — Meals — Breakfast, Dinner, Supper — Bill of Fare — Condition of the Poor — their Habitations — Comparison with the Irish ....... 20

Letter IV

Espartero's triumphal entry into Madrid — Madrid and the Madridians — Calle de Alcala — The Prado — Palace of the Duque de Hijar — Fabrica de Plateria— Apartment 378 feet in length — Paintings — Velasquez — Murillo — Museo de Ciencias Naturales — Megatherium — Spanish love of freedom — The Monks — The Nuns — Cruel Treatment of — The Clergy — Ireland, and the Claims of the Irish Catholics — Prospects of Spain CONTENTS.

Letter V. Page

Bull-fight — Italian Opera— Teatro del Principe — Spanish Songs and Music — Books — Authors, Ancient and Modern, and their Works — Modern Foreign Works translated into Spanish — Newspapers — Espartero and Christina — Ceremony of the Commemoration of the Dead — Christina's Love of Money, &c. . 61

Letter VI

Palace of Madrid — The Manzanares — Buen Retiro — Casino de la Reyna — Moncloa — Salesas Viejas — Madrid— Streets, &c. — Equipages — Andalusian Horses — Public Entry of Queen Isabella into Madrid, description ios — Severe Cold in Madrid — Aire de la Guadarrama — Provisions, &c. &c. .... 83

Letter VII

Measures of the Government — Grand Military Review by the Duque de la Vitoria — Basque Fueros — Freedom in Spain from Imprisonment for Debt — English in Madrid — Spanish Invitations — Society — Court — British Minister and Embassy — Beauty of Spanish Ladies — Morals — Education — Royal Academies — — Schools for the Poor — Spanish Grandees — Ignorance and embarrassments of — Apathy of Spaniards in general . . 104

Letter VIII

Spanish Tradesmen — Bribery of Officials and Mal-administration of the Laws — Discussion between a Frenchman and a Spaniard respecting — means of improvement — impediments to — Basques — Catalans — Spanish Ferocity — qualified — Character of Spaniards —their despair of improvement — Present tranquillity of Spain — Reference to Egypt and Mohammed Ali — Erroneous policy — Importance of friendly feeling between England and France . 132

Letter IX

Intention of travelling to the South— Previous Excursion — Aranjuez — Escurial (Escorial), or San Lorenzo, Diorama of— Journey to Toledo and back — Description of Toledo — Relics and Riches in the Cathedral— Population of Madrid — Divisions of— Mode of Numbering Streets and Houses— Curious Names of— Beggars, &c. — Manufactures— Madrid Vehicles— Modes of Travelling, Diligences, &c. . . . . . . .146 PYRENEES. that I ha^e told you nothing, — any regular account of our excursions there, would now, at this distance of time, be quite out of the question. But since you wish it, I will say a few words about one or two of the most remarkable spots we visited, and the general character of the scenery in them as compared with that of the Alps. In contrasting these two magnificent regions, (at least those parts of each, of which a carriage or equestrian traveller such as I have been, bas an opportunity of judging,) the comparative want of vastness in the Pyrenees will not fail to strike.

The Pyrenees are extremely lovely and extremely grand; but, nevertheless, the absence of the gbt tering icy peaks, and of the second heaven to be found in the broad blue lakes of Switzerland, forces me to acknowledge the unchaUengeable superiority of my older mountain friends. The form of tbe moun tain masses is squarer in the Pyrenees; the snow lies in tables on them, but the perpendicular sides descending from these are dark; you do not see in them the white points piercing the sky which give so peculiarly glorious an effect to the Alpine ranges. Nowhere in the Pyrenees, that I know of, can you gaze upon an uninterrupted expanse of ice or snow, — apparently reaching from an unfathomable distance below your feet, up into the very heaven above, — as you do, when looking at the Jungfrau from the top of the Wengern Alp near Interlaken.

ALPS, Nowhere can you find yourself close to hundreds of glistening, rosy needles, as on Faulhorn at sunrise, when the icy summits are pinked by the morning light. Nowhere can you look down from immense heights on successions of bright, shining lakes im bedded in mountains, as from this same Faulhorn, and from the Righi: or on larger inland seas, as from that part of the ascent to the latter, which more immediately overhangs the exquisite lake of Lucerne ; or from the hills over lovely Neufchatel, when coming from Salins across the Jura'; or from those over Geneva, when descending from the Fribourg road, towards Vevay, and in various other points. There are no lakes you can really look down upon, in the Py renees ; or but very few, and those small and usually gloomy. There are not the picturesque Swiss cottages either; nor the varied Swiss costumes, to add to the charms of this region.

But although for all these reasons, the Alps must, to my mind, ever bear away the palm; the very great beauty and majesty of the Pyrenees are by no means to be questioned. I confess, while there, I was too often drawing these comparisons ; and have reason to quarrel with myself for having suffered the recollection of the godbke Alps, to lesson occasionally the zest of the enjoyment before me. Now, however, I am reconciled to that effect, by the satisfaction of finding that my old objects of love and worship are not unseated from the place they held in my admi- PYRENEES. 5 ration ; and from knowing that I can one day see their dear and venerated features again, with un changed feelings. I cannot long regret anything which leaves old friends animate or inanimate, para mount in my esteem; — I must ever love them so much better than new.

The Pyrenees, however, have charms pecubar to themselves. The solemn grandeur in the Alps of the unchanging pine-forest, is, it is true, wanting in the lesser chain — the Pyrenees ; — but then these are enriched with greener foliage of infinite variety ; and the good soil and admirable irrigation produce a verdure and richness in the valleys truly de licious : — In short, it is a heavenly and a splendid region ; and people act like fools on this as on other occasions, if they wiU not acknowledge and enjoy to the full the delights within their reach, because some others they might perhaps deem superior, may be absent. You know too, circumstanced as we are, we have not been able to compass any of those more fatiguing and more perilous excursions, which unfold to the strong and daring pedestrian, scenes of wild ness and sublimity that cannot be approached by persons confined to driving and riding.

Even thus, however, we have enjoyed some sights in the Pyrenees, the glory and beauty of which a bfe will not efface from my memory. Those which made the strongest impression upon us were, — the view from the top of the Pic du Midi de Bigorre, PORT DE VENASQUE. which we ascended from Luz ; — that, over the valley dAure, which we reached after our descent from the Pic, (having taken a cross path over the mountains, from Grip to Bagneres de Luchon) ; — that, ofthe Maladetta, from the Port de Venasque on the Spanish frontier, including indeed all the splendid scenery passed through on the ascent to this from Luchon ; — and that, of the mountains over the valleys of Luz and St Sauveur, as they are beheld on descending the opposite heights, from Bareges to Luz. The last is more like a Swiss mountain view, I think, than any I have seen in the Pyrenees ; and the prospect from the Hourquette dAure, though there are no lakes in the bottom, — had, when we saw it, the same effect as one of those lake views in Switzerland of which I was speaking; various blue, transparent clouds that lay at an immense depth below us, over the valley, holding the place of the absent lakes.

In the excursion to the Port de Venasque, we trod for a little while on Spanish soil. The ziz-zag, steep path by which the upper part of the ascent is surmounted, is in parts a little ticklish to those on horseback; and one or two passes across ice-slopes at a frightful angle, appeared to us very much so. On emerging from the ' Port,' (a singular and sudden gap in the rocky wall forming the summit of the pass,) you burst at once on the magnificent Maladetta, the highest mountain in the chain; and further on, enjoy a splendid, but to us most tantalizing view of SPANISH GALLANTRY. the path leading down into Arragon. How we longed to follow it ! How hard it seemed to us to be so near, and to know nothing of tbe fine romantic country which lay stretching towards the south before us ! Our inkling desire to visit Spain was quickened when we heard the language spoken about us on Spanish ground, by the frontier guard and by tra vellers we overtook on the way.

The gallant cour tesy of Spaniards to the female sex struck us even in this remote spot. We had neglected bringing with us some necessary paper, and were stopped, in con sequence, by the revenue soldiers. When however, our guides appealed to the politeness of these men towards the ladies of the party, the soldiers bowed, and let the cavalcade pass. An answer made on the same occasion, by a Spanish pedestrian who had joined us, afforded us some amusement. Being asked if there was any civil war going on in Spain just then, and if it would be dangerous to travel there, he re plied merely — " La guerra ? No ! Por las mugeres hacemos la guerra !" (1) We returned into France, through another port, (that of La Picade) from which we ought to have enjoyed a beauteous prospect in the direction of Catalonia ; but, alas ! we were folded up in a fog as thick as a blanket, but unlike it, so piercingly cold that it seemed to congeal all the blood in our veins.

It froze on our clothes and our hair; and the cutting PIC DU MIDI DE BIGORRE. wind which accompanied it forcibly blowing off our outer coverings, we arrived in the lower grounds in a plight of very thorough misery. But then, how genial and debcious was the warmth of the sun, when we emerge below the icy cloud, under shelter of the warm woods ! Nothing, for making one enjoy one's-self, bke a bttle comfortless wretchedness before hand ! As we came back into Luchon, some French friends of ours came to inquire whether we were alive or dead. It appeared, another party had gone on the same expedition that day, the chief of which lost his wife and child in the dense icy fog, and had to return to Luchon without them, for further assistance. Our friends thought we might have been of the same un fortunate party, and that some of us were probably frozen alive already.

The poor lost ones were how ever, I am happy to say, found near the Port le la Picade, living, and I hope long ere this perfectly weU. Of all the sights I have seen in the Pyrenees, none equals the view I mentioned first, from the top of the Pic du Midi de Bigorre, at an elevation of 10,000 feet above the level of the sea. We left Luz at ten o'clock at night, and made the ascent by moonlight, in order to be on the summit at sunrise. It would be idle to attempt a description of all the glorious things, — of earth, of air, of sky, — which strike the eye from this spot, at this hour. The rugged crumbling tops im mediately around; the distant and grand central SUNRISE. chain, with its sheets of snow, whitening, as age does among men, their more ancient, hoary heads ; the immense expanse of plain on the opposite side, 8,000 feet below you, fading away into distance ; the glowing belt of crimson on the horizon ; then, the splendid sun himself, bursting upon the world, as he can be seen to do only from a height like this ; the white clouds robing themselves into a fleecy sea under your feet, leaving gbmpses of the chequered shining fields far, far beneath ; the successive lighting up of the surrounding mountain-tops, till all at last reposes and basks in the glorious sunshine : — It is im possible for words to convey the faintest idea of the beauty and grandeur of such a scene.

The upper part of the ascent is by no means devoid of danger on horseback ; though the path is an excel lent one for pedestrians, and weU and regularly made. It is repaired after every winter's snow by the com mune who originally planned it ; and the footing is consequently better than one mountain ascent in a hundred. Were it otherwise, the attempt could not be made by ordinary equestrian travellers. For about 2,000 feet, from the time of leaving the Lac d'Oncet, you mount the precipitous face of the peak overhanging it, by a path merely wide enough for your horse ; very steep in parts ; without the slightest protection to guard you from the precipice ; and winding backwards and forwards with such sudden, short bends, as sometimes to render it diffi- BLINDNESS OF GUIDE. cult for your animal to turn the angles at all.

Indeed he does so in some instances, urged by the guide, with a jerk that is anything but agreeable, when you see that a single false step would plunge you down the steep to be food for the trout, and without a chance of escape. This ascent as we made it — by night, bt only by a half-hid moon, in which imperfect bgbt every horror and danger was of course exaggerated to our senses — appeared to us very awful. It was rendered to me rather a more nervous matter than it usually is, by the fact of my guide suddenly becoming bbnd from what he caUed a coup de sang a la tete. He preserved his senses, and spoke en patois to bis comrades on the subject; but did not mention what he felt to me, fearing, I suppose, to lose his hire. It was not till we were approaching the most dangerous part of the ascent, that, on my observing how pertinaciously he grasped the tail of the animal preceding him, and be coming a bttle alarmed at bis repeated falls (for the man often came suddenly down on his face, threaten ing to drag me along with him), he at length declared how the matter stood.

I should have believed the man to be intoxicated, were it not that during the early part of the excursion there had been nothing peculiar in his manner, and that some hours later, on his rejoining us after we had despatched him to a cottage near the Lac d'Oncet, be appeared recovered, and assured us be could now see again perfectly. SLEEPY ENGLISHMAN. Notwithstanding this occurrence, and the other ap parent terrors of the ascent, we rode up the whole way ; that is, as far as the path I have described con tinues. There is a small part near the top, ascending an inner peak removed from the lake, which is always mounted on foot. The summit is capable of affording footing for some twenty persons ; the broken rocky flanks of the peak falling precipitately on every side. On the centre of the bttle platform, to afford some sort of shelter from the cold, a small shed was erected ; under cover of wliich, in a profound sleep, we found an individual, who we learnt had reached the top very early to be in time for the sunrise.

What think you of this being, who, when told the orb of day was about to appear, refused to get up to look at what he had come so far to see ! " He was too sleepy !" Must I own the individual was an Englishman ? The path downwards, below the Lac d'Oncet, through the Hourque des Cinq Ours (a course not frequently taken), and by Tramesaigues to Grip, was difficult, and rather unsafe for horses; but offered some splendid scenery. So also did the ride thence, after passing the Prairie de St Jean, through the fine ascending fir forest which leads up to Hourquette d'Aure before named. During this part of our journey we obtained some splendid glimpses of the Pic d'Arbizon and other mountains. The descent to Arreau, (where we arrived twenty-one hours after PIC DE BERGONZ. leaving Luz, about eighteen os which we bad spent on horseback) was very interesting, but fatiguing beyond measure on account of the roughness and steepness of the road.