Wild Life on the Fjelds of Norway

Front matter

NEW WORK BY THE ABBE' DOMENECH. Just published, in 2 vols. 8vo. with a Map, about 60 Woodcuts, and other Illustrations, price 36s. cloth, SEVEN YEARS' RESIDENCE IN THE GREAT DESERTS 0F NORTH AMERICA By the ABBE' EM. DOMENECH, APOSTOLICAL MISSIONARY; CANON OP MONTPELLIER; MEMBEB OF THE PONTIFICAL ACADEMY, TIBBRINA, AND OF THB GEOGRAPHICAL AN3> ETHNOGRAPHICAL SOCIETIES OF FRANCE, &C " -THE principal object of this i geographical and other knowledge -** work is to throw light on tlte origin i furnished by that work, it nevertheless ofthe Indian tribes from the hieroglyph icul j yielded in attraction to tlie spell which was monuments and the immense ruins which I cast on the reader by the devout and adven are to be found in the wildernesses of North | turous character ofthe author himself, as America, as well as from the variety of i pourtrayed in his work.

There is in the types whichj characterise the native inhabi- [ book before us less of the writer's own indi tants ofthe different portions of tlie fourth viduality, and more of his services to eth quarter ofthe globe. This object is steadily uogruphical, historical, and geographical kept in view throughout the book. The Abbe; science. Our previous acquaintance with Domenecu's own conclusion, after yearn of the Abbe, however, gives an additional patient examination, is that North America charm to the stories ofscientific information was originally peopled by the voluntary or which he has collected for us; and the reader accidental influx of Scythians. Hebrews, will find no less reason now than heretofore Tartars, Scandinavians, and Welsh; and to admire his close and subtle observation, that, as centuries passed on, these different his vivid powers of description, and hisun races amalgamated, and, from the action of tiring energy.

Iu one point of view his new time, climate, mode of life, and other cause.", book ia a legacy to posterity which we shall became what they were found to be after the probably r. ver see matched. We cannot discovery of the American continent in the expect that so intelligent nn observer as our ■ age of Columbus. But this conclusion is Abbe" will ever again have the opportunity only arrived at after patient examination of mixing so freely with the native rai i and comparison of historical, physiological, North America, and acquiring ho intimate a and religious documents with the traditions, knowledge of their habi * am] it antiquities, aud customs ofthe peoples whose . ever the red-skin shall have beo mi ib\ one origin is under discussion, 'lhe Bubjejt is type of humanity, this book will be a pre tirst treated generally and historically ; and cioua record of the most poetical race of wild in the subsequent chapters are unfolded inde* men.

Preface

. To lead a wild life among the snow-clad moun tains of Norway, was the hope I entertained on sailing from England, — a hope which, through the kindness of acquaintances formed in the country, was fully realized. An opportunity of gaming an insight into the pastoral and wild life led by the dairy-folk at the sœters, or chalets, and the reindeer-hunters on the fjelds was thus obtained ; and, as glimpses only of that life have been given in the nume rous works on Norway, I have been induced to offer these few pages to the public, with the hope that they may afford a more intimate acquaintance with, and supply a characteristic A

PREFACE.

. feature of, the rural life of the Norwegian peasantry. I may here express my warmest thanks for the hospitality which everywhere welcomed me throughout the country ; but more especially is my gratitude due to my friends at Bergen and Kaupanger, by whom I was received in so friendly a manner, and who contributed most largely to the enjoyment of my visit to Norway, of which the pleasantest recollections will ever be retained. As I have adhered to the correct spelling of fjord and fjeld, it may be well to observe that j, as also hj, have the power of the English y in yes ; aa that of o in cold, or au in gaudy ; y is pronounced as the German it, as fly (flu) ; and skydskarl is spoken shiiskarl, sk before e, i, and y, having the sound of sh ; œ is equi valent to e in French, as in sœter, pronounced seter, and œ is equal to ai in air. For most of the altitudes given in the first few chapters I am indebted to Professor James

PREFACE.

. IX Forbes' " Norway and its Glaciers ; " the al titudes in Chapter VIL and the remaining chapters are taken from the " Amts Karte," and have been reduced to English feet by mul tiplying by 1-029. For the finishing of the drawings for the lithographs and woodcuts, I am indebted to the assistance of my mother. A few remarks on outfit have been appended, with the view of rendering practical assistance to any who may contemplate a visit to the Fjelds of Norway. Kogate, Sussex : April 1861. CONTENTS.

CHAPTER L

Voyage to Norway. — Coast Scenery.. — NorskPilot. — Bay of Bergen. — Custom-house Officers. — Haymaking. — Maintenance of Boads. — Picture Exhibition. — English Farmer. — Leprosy Hospital Page 1 CHAP. II. Leave Bergen. — Roches Moutonn.es. — Raisin Soup. — Women Rowers. — Sandvig. — A ravenous Bear. — Start for Bjornebol. — Stone Sœters, — Fine Valley. — Hardanger Costume. — Interior of Farmhouse. — Expanding Beds. — Bear-Hunt. — A Cow torn by the Bear. — Peasants' Weapons. — Grand SceDery. — Return to Sandvig . 12 CHAP. III. Bad Weather. — Norwegian Boats. — Mode of Steering. — Storm on the Fjord. — Take refuge in a Cottage. — Flad-Brod.— Coloured Blankets. Waterfalls. — Leave the Hardanger. — Loquacious Boatman. — Stolkjœrres.— Walled Bridges.— Drikke-penge CONTENTS. CHAP. TV. Leave Vossevangen. — A Wild-Duck Chase. — A heavy Penalty.— Posting Arrangements. — A roguish Scheme — Stalheim. — Magnificent Gorge. — An apathetic Pige. — An uncomfortable Station. — Næro Fjord. — Mode of Rowing. — Boating Chorus. — Arrival at Kaupanger ......

Page 42 CHAP. V. A Country House. — A Norwegian Dinner. — " Tak for Maden." — A Bear-hunter. — Sunday. — A Whale. — The Sogne Fjord. — Reach Aurdal. — Bauta Stone. — Ragged Boys Lake Scenery. — Shot and a Goat.— Terrified Child. — Winter Food of Cattle. — A Hunter's Cottage. — Intelligent Soldier. — A Hay-loft Up to the Hills. — Willow-Grouse described. — Hurungerne Mountains. — Advantages of Shooting. — A Shoal of Mackerel. — Abhorrence of Eels . 5 5 CHAP. VI. Departure from Kaupanger. — Norwegian Ponies. — Forests. — Ferry-boats. — Terraces. — A Salmon River. — The Lyster Fjord. — A dreaded Storm. — Skjolden. — Pack-saddles. — Start for the Sogne Fjeld. — A wild Valley. — Farm-house of Oftun. — A Reindeer-Hunter. — Hurungerne Mountains. — Definition ofa Fjeld. — Colouring ofthe Scenery. — Perils of the Fjeld in Winter. — Ski, or Snow-Skates. — Smbrstab Bræen. — Roaming Ponies. — Bcevertun Sœters. — A happy Mistake. — Log-built Sœters. — A short Bed. — Inquisitive Pige 78 CHAP. vn.

Milking the Cows. — Norwegian Evasiveness. — Farm-house of Kvandesvold. — Sunday Cakes Rodseim. — Arrival at Andvord. Quaint Granary —The Otta Vand. — Olaf, a Reindeer-hunter Irrigation of Land. — Carrioles. — Social Equality. — Farm of Graffer. contents. — Costumes and Silver Plate. — Two-pronged Forks. — Moonlight Walk. — Climate influencing Snow-line. — Church of Lom Page 1 04 CHAP. VIII. Off to the Fjelds. — Mid-day halt at a Sœter. — ReachSmaadal. —Handsome Peasant Girl. — Costume of Guldbransdalen. — Coffee-making. — On the Fjelds. — A hundred Eeindeerfall over a Precipice. — Feast of Reindeer-Hunters. — Apathy of Peasants. — A desolate Tract. — Commercial Travellers on the Mountains. — Juniper-Tea. — Jacob the Budeier. — Interior of Ruslien Sœters. — Use and Abuse of Coffee. — Willow-Grouse. — Gjendin Sben. — Peasant Sportsmen. — An old Reindeer-Hunter. — His Hut. — Providing food. — Hunters' Fare Security in Norway . . . . .121 CHAP. IS.

Out after Reindeer. — Fording a Torrent. — Mountain Shepherd's Hut. — Leirungsdal. — Grand Scenery. — No Reindeer. — Steensflyen Former Extension of Glaciers. — Repast of Whortleberries. — At the Hut again. — Forty Miles for Provisions. — Romme-kolle. — Marit and Sigeri. — A charmed Bullet. — Rude Candlestick. — Fjeld Cookery. — Reindeer-Hunter's Life. — Aversion of Peasants to unsalted Butter. — Trout fishing . . . . . . .144 CHAP. X A beautiful Morning. — Rude Hut. — Splendid Panorama. — Reindeer at last ! — They vanish. — Reindeer-Flowers. — Glaciers. — A rough Scramble. — Grand Amphitheatre. — Roaming Habits of Reindeer. — Not dull of Sight. — Will not cross human Footsteps. — Come suddenly upon Reindeer. — Canter up the Precipice. — Disappointments. — An ancient Rifle. — Moltebeer. — Endurance of old Joh . . .163 CHAP. XL A Day in the Hut Originality of Joh. — His Whims. — " Quad sai ou?

" — Reindeer again. — A hard Run. — Hail Storm. — Veiling Pack- CONTENTS. Horses for Christiania. —Joh, a Bear-Hunter. — A late Return.— Primitive Remedies.— Light marching Order.— A dangerous Climb.— Three Reindeer.— A difficult Stalk. — Hiding the Deer. — Rus Vand. —The Stone Hut.— Difficulties of cooking.— A rusty Pot.— A Plank for a Bed. . . . . . • Page 180 CHAP. XII. Scenery of Rus Vand. — Besho. — Mountain- Shepherd. — Fishermen. — " God Betaling." — Shepherd's Hut. — A troublesome Flock. — Milking the Goats. — A valued Present.. — Aurora Borealis. — Old Pitfalls. — Heste-kjœrn. — "TakforCaffe." — Blaakjœrnhullet. — Fifteen Reindeer. — A wide Leap. ■ — Tracking the Deer . . 201 CHAP. XIIL Short of Food. — A Snow Storm. — Habits of the Glutton.— Laden with the Deer Hunter's Beverage Old Norse Language.— Intelligence of the Natives. — Threatening Weather. — Its Effect on Reindeer. — Leave the Stone Hut . . . . . .217 CHAP. XIV.

Reindeer-Moss for Cows. — Depart from the Fjelds. — Cheese-making at Ruslien Sœter. — Shoe-mending.. — Routine ofa Sœter. — Inferiority of the Cheese. — Cutting one's Name Grievance of Shepherd. — The Randsvœrk Sœters. — Hospitality. — Looking for a Pony. — Game Laws and Premiums. — Inquisitiveness of Peasants. Old Furniture. — Prepare for Departure. — Farewell to Peter . 226 CHAP. XV. Bound for Christiania. — A cunning Skydskarl. — A dangerous Road. — Norwegian Bridges. — Arrive at Viik. — An inquisitive Lad. — CONTENTS. XV Handsome " Tol-knive." — Ponies stopping for Chats. — Snow- Ploughs and Sledges. — Miosen Vand. — By Railroad to Chris tiania ....... Page 243 CHAP. XVI. Droskky. — A state Carriage. — Christiania. — Zoological Museum. — Christiania Fjord A determined Pilot. — Reach Christiansand. — Arrive in England . . . . . 254 CHAP. XVII.

ON OUTFIT. Carriole travelling. — Pack-saddles. — Tents. — Sir J. E. Alexander's Tent. — Mr. Doyle's Tent. — ■ Major Rhodes' Curvilinear Tents. — Bivouac Tent. — Camp-kettles. — Knives. — Beds. — Sleeping-bags. * — Equipment for Pedestrians. — Blouse. — Knickerbockers. — Undressed Woollen Stuffs. — American-Indian Tanned Deerskin. — Shoes. — Mocassins. — Guns and Rifles. — Gunpowder. ■ — Telescope. — -Field-glass. — Sketching Materials. — Aneroid Barometer. — India-rubber Boat. — Miscellanies. — Summary of Remarks. — Table of Necessaries . , . . . . LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. CHROMOLITHOGRAPHS. Leieungs Beæen ........ frontispiece. Smoestab Tindebne — Sogne Fjeld . . . to face page 97 Gjendin Soen „ 138 Bauhammee 211 WOODCUTS; Bat of Beegen . 4 Lomseggen and the Otta Vand . . . . . .112 Smaadal 128 Bus Vand _ 202 MAPS.

Sketch Map of Southeen Nobway, shotting the Authob's Eoute tofacepage 1 Map of the Gjendin Lake and subeounding Mountains „ WILD LIFE ON* THE FJELDS OF NORWAY