Syria, and the Syrians: or, Turkey in the Dependencies

Preface

xiii

Chapter I

The 21st Day of December, 1854 — A Day on the Heights of Caramania — Scenery — The Storm — Our Steamer — The Cove — Our Party— The Gar<;on— The Plan of this Work laid out— A Tour in Syria — Its Advantages, Comfort, Expense etc. — Quarantine — The Waves of the Mediterranean — A Scene oil Deck — The old Bashi- B'zook and his two Negresses — Arrival at Mersina — Its Importance and Rise — Going Ashore— A fearful Landing — The French Consul's House — Our Reception — -Nargeele's — An Incident — Tarsoos — The Legend of its Origin — History and Association — The Rain-shelter— Backsheesh — Return on Board — Our Luggage — The Last Resort — Our Captain — En Route — Gulph of Alexandretta — Meeting the Mentor — Water Spouts — Alexandretta— Aleppo, Massacre of Christians in 1850 — Battle of Issus — Alexander and Darius — The Orontes — Swaidia — Antioch — Lattakia — A Revolt — The Accused — Tripoli — The Captain and the Passengers — Cape Madona — Coast of Phœnicia — Arrival at Bayroot 1

Chapter II

Monday, 25th December, 1854 — First View of Bayrout — Warburton's Testimony — Roadstead of Bayroot — Turkey — Former Grandeur compared with its present Condition — European and Oriental Life — The Sale — A Merchant at Home — Improvement in Bayroot — Comparison with Twenty Years ago — Progress of the Gospel — Opposition to it — Course of the Maronite Patriarch — History of the American Mission — Messrs. Parsons and Fish — Goodeil and Bird — Incident at Jerusalem — Opposition to the Roman Catholics — Reports circulated of the Missionaries — Difficulty of the Syrian Field — Progress of the Work — Martyrdom of Assaad Esh Shidiak— CONTENTS. PAGE Departure of the Missionaries for Malta — My Father — Unjust Re marks of the Author of the " Holy City" — Reply— History of Three American Ecclesiastics — Return of the Missionaries — Mr. Thomson — The School — Death of Mr. and Mrs. Hebard — Termina tion and Influence of the School — Printing Press — Present Condi tion of the Mission, and Developments .29

Chapter III

Tuesday, 26th December, 1854 — The Promenade of Bayroot — Ancient Remains — Hotels — Coffee-shops — Lateen-sailed Boats — Process of reeling Silk — The Mission Grounds — Old Scenes and old Associations — Printing Press — A new Translation of the Bible into Arabic — Protestant Cemetery — Reflection — . A Mahomedan Funeral — Treatment of the Dead — Public Cemeteries — Anecdote of a Bedouin and the Bath — The Seraglio — Pashaliks of Syria — Pasha — Government of Bayroot — Town Court — Roman and Turkish Rule — The Way Bayroot is lighted at Night — Soldiers and Cities — Revenues — Turkey and Islamism — Tribute Money — Dr. Olin's Testimony — Conscription — Its Unpopularity — Board of Trade — Mosques — Endowments — Liberality of .Mahomedans — Meanness of the Maronites — Anecdote — Streets — The Gold Coins — A Scene at the Custom-house — Turkey and her Revenues — Abaih — The Road thither — Ain Ksoor — Deyr el Kamar and Bteddeen— Scenes of civil Discord . 64

Chapter IV

Arrangements for a Tour in Syria — Dragoman — Contract — Sundry Hints ol Advice — A Trip to the Cedars via Tripoli — Legend of St. George and the Dragon — Lebanon — The Druzes — The Maronites — Nunneries — Hindeea — A Word to Englishmen — Mount Lebanon an Asylum — Government of Mount Lebanon — System of Divide and Conquer — Israel — Nahr el Kelb — Zook — Antoura — Plantation — Djooni — Nahr Ibrahim — Djebail — Way to the Cedars by Dooma — Batroon — Msailha — Amioon — Tripoli — An Adventure — The Mina — The Town Beauty of Tripoli — Gardens — Pick-nics — Old Associations — The Fort — Scenery — Melawia — The Consuls — Signor Yanni — Missionary Labour — En Route to the Cedars — Zgarta — Ehden — Its Pretensions — Scenery — Bsharre — Grandeur — Cedars — On the Highway to Baalbeck 92

Chapter V

Monday, 27th December, 1854 — Farewells — Wells — Scripture Allusions Water Carriers — Prickly Pear — Demetri Cata — Our Course — Ascent CONTENTS. IX PAGE of Mount Lebanon — Our Party — View — A bad Ascent — Our Stop ping-place — First Impressions— "Wait, Master!" — The Cook and his Horse — Transformation of the Place — Our Dinner — Lebanon Wine — Grapes — Accommodation — The Khan — Druze Women and the Horn — Excitement of Syrian Travelling — Rain — Climate — Mount Lebanon — Its Advantages — Its Destiny — En Route to Bhamdoon — Bad Road — Vineyards — Grape Disease — Terraces — Fertility — Bhamdoon — Salams of the People — Mr. Benton — En Route — Fossils and Sea-shells — The Mdairij — View from above Hamana — Mist — Luncheon — Mule Train — The Bekaa — Hosh — Maalaka — Zahle' — View and Scenery — Noah's Tomb — Its Peculiari ties—Females at the Fountain — Position in Life of the People — Dr. Olin's Testimony — Our Cook — Excitements — Illness of Thorndike — First View of Baalbeck — A small Temple —Arrival at Baalbeck . 120

Chapter VI. Baalbeck To Damascus

Friday, 29th December, 1854 — Baalbeck— Its Architecture; — Its Ruins — A Country View — A Moonlight View of the Ruins — A Native School — The Contrast — An Ancient Cemetery — A Carriage-road — The Solitary Pillar— Ahmet's Idea of it — A Bedouin — Arabian Horses — The Muezzin — Mohamedanism on Prayer — A Mosque — Perhaps an Ancient Bath — Ras el Ain — Perilous Experiments to decipher the Inscriptions on the Walls of Baalbeck — The Quarry — The large Stone — Original Resources — P . . and the Fleas — A Turkish Wedding — Baalbeck — Evils of the Farming System — Thoughts on the old Year — Syria — Departure — Mill — Ploughs — Clear Sky — Bad Road — Khraib^, kind Villagers — Bad Road and beautiful Ravine — An Eagle — Tomb of Seth — Beautiful Scenery — Arrival at Seriaga — A Shooting Expedition — Rather unfortunate — M . . and the Villagers — Sick People — Necessity of more Medical Men — Beautiful Valley — Zebdani Bludan — British Consul's Summer Residence — Wady Souk Barada — Its Antiquities — Mr. Wood and his Influence — Tomb of Abel — Antediluvian Remains — Ancient Abila — The Fair — Attack by the Saracens — The River Barada — Last Day's Ride to Damascus— The Fije" — A cold Ride — Fierce Wind — First View of Damascus Entrance to Damascus — Streets — Shops — Sales — Scenes — Arrival at onr House . 149

Chapter VII

Damascus — Its Situation — Its Early Traditions — Lamartine's Statement on its Antediluvian Remains — Its Origin, and Scripture History — X CONTENTS.

PAGE Conversion of St. Paul— The Site of his Conversion— The Eastern Gate— The Street called Straight— House of Ananias— Interest— The Jewish Sanhedrim, and the present Clergy of the Oriental Churches, contrasted— Its Invasion by the Saracens— Thomas— The Surrender— Caled's fierce Spirit— Jonas and Eudocia— The Pursuit and Massacre of the Christians— Eudocia commits Suicide rather than become the Wife of the Apostate Jonas— Tragedy on the same — The concluding historical Notices of Damascus — The present Damascus, and its Trade— Superiority of English Manufactures—Oriental Ideas of John Bull— The Hadj to Mecca— A European Hat— Story of Mr. and Mrs. Potter— Story of a Cephalonite Greek— The Tables turned— British Influence — The Irish Presbyterians and the Reformed Associate Presbyterians of America Their joint Missions, and Results— Dr. Paulding, and Medical Agency— Schools— Their Necessity— Foreign Testimony ; Branches of Study now taught in the Mission Schools— Our Unfortunate Party — Bath — A Description of One, and its Mode of Operation Merchants' Khan— Mosque of St. John— Franciscan Monks and Mahomedan Ideas of Justice — Poor Michael — A Visit to Dr. Paulding— Quarters and Gates— A Snow Storm— Our Evening Party- Dress and Ornaments of Oriental Females— Reception— Supper Meals— The Way Time is calculated in Syria— A Syrian Dish- Universal Custom of saying Grace— The Washing of Hands- Furniture, and Modes of Sitting— Plans of Syrian Houses— My Friend's House — Salutation — Conversation — The English Post Office—Adjournment to the Ladies' Saloon— Foreign Testimony of our Syrian Ladies— Questions asked and answered about Queen Victoria— The Refreshments— Final Dispersion of the Party . 185

Chapter VIII. Damascus To Hasbaiya

The Parting— Michael an excellent Provedore— Departure— The Streets of Damascus— A fearful Morning— The Watchman— The Water- Reaching the Plains— A second Breakfast— A Herd of Antelopes— A Shepherd and his Pipe— Goats, Cows, and Sheep— Reaching the Kullaa— A Fall in the Snow— Khalil's Prophecy verified— The Caravan— The head Muleteer— Our Difficulties— Abandoning the Goods— Cry for Help— Ascent of the Hill— The Muleteers and the Mules— The Goods— Khalil's Remark— The Rescue— How we got to the Top of the Hill— The Excitement at Aiha— Hospitality and Good-heartedness— Arrival at Rashaiya— Its Christian Population, and their Bigotry— Reflections— The Oriental Churches— The Con- CONTENTS. XI PAGE vents — Pusevism — A peculiar Case — Filial Devotion and Venera tion for the Aged — Roads — First View of Hasbaiya — Impressions — Arrival at Ha9baiya — Cordial Welcome as expressed by the People — Visits — Entertainments — " Illustrated London News" and " Punch"— Influence of a Pictorial Bible— Death of M . .230

Chapter IX

Hasbaiya — Change of my Plans — Returning Visits — The Emir, Saad-ed-Dein — His Sons — History of the Shehab Family — Condition of Mahomedan Females— Duty of English Females — The Protestants of Hasbaiya — Their History — Form of Worship, etc. — The Firman for the Protestants — Law against Mahomedan Converts — Hermon — Disadvantages of Hasbaiya — Marriages — A rainy Night . . 258

Chapter X. The Sources Of The Jordan

Tuesday, 6th February, 1855 — Leaving Hasbaiya — A Craggy Defile — The Source of the Hasbani — Wells of Bitumen — A Fair — A View — Watchmen and Sheds — A Poor Druze — A Syrian's Ideas of an Appeal — Luncheon — Pic-nics in Syria — Sites for the Same — Castle of Banias — Ruins — Banias — Sheikh's House — His Hospitality — Story of the Property — Syrian Hospitality — The History of Banias — The Fleas — The Source of the Baniasi — Herod's Temple in honour of Augustus — Gates and Walls — A Ride to the Castle — The Towers — Went to Dan — The Source of the Leddan — A Luncheon — The Houle" — The Jordan — Abel Beth Maachah — Rashaiya — Protestants — Party and Prayers — School — A Desire for Education — Potteries — A Ride to Hebbarea — The Temple — A Russian Coin — Return to Hasbaiya 290

Chapter XI. Hasbaiya To Bayroot

Farewell — Scenery — Season for Travelling in Syria — Difference in Traveller's Descriptions — The Peasantry and their Horses— Ijon — A Night at Djed-dai-de" — Love of Children — Coast of Phœnicia— A Village — Kalat Esh Shkief— Scenery — A Breakfast — En route— CONTENTS. XII PAGE Thirsty — A Gallop to the Zahrani — Luncheon — The Last Ridge — Arrival at Sidon — Movement in Deyr El Kamar — History of Sidon and its Associations — En route to Bayroot — The Road — Lady Hester Stanhope — The Belgian Consul — Consular System — Protection System — Remedy for Evils — Nehi Yonas — River Da moor — Porphyreon — Khalde" — Mount Lebanon — Arrival at Bayroot ■Letters

PREFACE.

. It is the custom now-a-days, to make an apology for intruding a new work on the public, especially when the subject thereof has been so often written upon. The history of Syria (including Palestine) , has been the theme of many an author ; and there is, perhaps, no country in the world upon which more books have been written. This is excusable : the subject is one of ever fresh import ; the scenes where the Christian faith had its origin and completion can never become dry to a Bible reader ; the land which is replete with testimonies, in fulfilled prophecy, to the truthfulness of the word of God, as uttered by His prophets long ago, can never cease to be a subject of regard. To write on a land where Jesus trod, walked, and on whose waters He sailed — which was invested with undying interest by having witnessed His presence, and been hallowed by His prayers — where He went about " doing good," and at last died for fallen man, is most natural, and one the most likely to be read by a Christian pubbc.

I cannot help remembering in this connection, the feeling which swelled my heart when my teacher, the late Rev. Story Hebard, returned from a tour in Pales tine, and told us of the interesting spots he had visited — how he was in Bethlehem where Jesus was born — in Nazareth, where He worked with Joseph — in Nain, where He restored the widow's son to life — in Bethany,

PREFACE.

. where He raised Lazarus from the dead — on the banks of the Jordan, where He was baptized — on the shores of Genesareth, where He oft sailed — in Cana of Galilee, where He turned the water into wine — in the Garden of Gethsemane, that scene of agony and of woe — in Jerusalem, where He was condemned, scourged, mocked, and finally suffered for guilty man. So great was the effect made by his narrative on my youthful mind, that I had scarcely been a month out of school, when I made the tour of those scenes, and the impressions then and there made on me are such as will never depart. Still as fresh as yesterday is the recollection of my first view of Jerusalem. I have since then read innumerable works on the subject, and I trust shall yet read as many more — so great is the in terest attached to that land, and the power it holds over the mind of the Bible reader.

These are sufficient grounds for an author to appear before the public without an apology, but indepen dently of these, I do so on other grounds, which I trust will warrant me in bringing forth this work. I have always had a prejudice against an apology for writing a book — the thing looks so hackneyed. It seems to me like a person who helps himself to your money, and then asks your leave to borrow it ; or a man who calls upon you, and then apologises for doing so. Why need he apologise? It will not alter the sentiment of the public in regard to his work. If the book is worth reading, it will speak for itself and gain a repu tation ; if not, he may be assured it will be condemned without mercy to contempt and oblivion. Under these circumstances, having been bold enough to write the book and publish it, I will not apologise for letting it see the light of day.

PREFACE.

. XV My object in writing this work, is not simply to enable the reader to beguile a leisure hour, but also to arouse a deeper interest in Syria, physically, morally, and politically, and to awaken the slumbering sympa thies of the British public, for a people whom it is their duty as Christians to endeavour to elevate, and their interest as a nation, who have a large empire in India to contend for, to protect and support, if they want to save Turkey, see her integrity maintained, and the ag gressions of Russia at an end. The author, who is a native of Syria, having re-visited his country after a tour of several years in Europe, Africa, Asia, and America, and having felt the want of a work like this for the British public — a nation the most interested in the affairs of the East — to point out to them the evils of the Turkish government in the provinces subjected to her rule, and to draw public attention more especially to the measures necessary to be adopted to effect a permanent remedy for those evils out of which, in truth, the present war has originated.

In order to invest the work with greater interest, the writer has thought it most advisable to throw into the shape of a narrative of a journey through Syria and Palestine, his notions concerning the wants of the Turkish dependencies. Not only has he gathered ma terials from every source within his reach, but from his acquaintance with those countries, the author hopes that he has been able to supply information not likely to be met with in ordinary books of travel. Hence the work will appear as a guide to the Holy Land, intended to interest the reader by its narrative of a journey through that country; amuse and instruct him by a description of our customs, habits, and man ners, so different from those of European people, and

PREFACE.

. yet so much resembling those of olden times; inspire him with reverence for the Sacred Volume by showing the literal fulfilment of the predictions uttered by the Prophets; show the contest between Protestantism and Roman Catholicism; and, finally, point out the causes of complaint against the Turkish Government; so that now, the destiny of Turkey being in the hands of the Allies, means should be taken to remedy those evils which have engaged Europe in a frightful contest, and which, unless removed, are likely again to occasion another war, perhaps more sanguinary than the present; and to indicate means which once used, will, in all probability promote the regeneration of Turkey, and re-establish her morally, physically, and politically. In conclusion, I beg to draw largely on the indul gence of the reader for any inaccuracies — grammatical or idiomatical — which his eye may detect in these vo lumes, as in writing them and carrying them through the press, I called in no extra aid; the short time they were printing (less than three weeks) admitted of no alteration in the manuscript, so the sheets remain very much as they were when penned on the spot after the fatigues of the day's journey.

I trust, therefore, that all the readers who may honour them with a perusal will make every allowance for my education and national style of expression. For more than that I ask not, pre ferring that they should abide the estimation of their merits by an impartial public. London, 14, Brunswick Square, 10th March, 1856. SYRIA AND THE SYRIANS.

Chapter I

The 21st Day of December, 1854 — A Day on the Heights of Caramania — Scenery — The Storm — Our Steamer — The Cove — Our Party — The Garcon — The Plan of this Work laid out — A Tour in Syria — Its Advantages, Comfort, Expense, etc. — Quarantine — The "Waves of the Mediterranean — A Scene on Deck. — The old Bashi-B'zook and his two Negresses — Arrival at Mersina — Its Importance and Rise — Going Ashore — A fearful Landing — The French Consul's House — Our Reception — Nargeeles — An Incident — Tarsoos — The Legend of its Origin — History and Association — The Rain-shelter — Backsheesh — Return on Board — Our Luggage — The Last Resort — Our Captain — En Route — Gulph of Alexandretta — Meeting the Mentor — Water Spouts — AJexandretta — Aleppo, Massacre of Christians in 1850 — Battle of Issus — Alexander and Darius — The Orontes — Swaidia — Antioch — Lattakia — A Revolt — The Accused — Tripoli — The Captain and the Passengers — Cape Madonna — Coast of Phœnicia — Arrival at Bayroot.

Reader ! had you stood on the heights of Caramania on the morning of Thursday, the twenty-first day of De cember, in the year of our Lord One thousand eight hundred and fifty-four — on the mountain top of that part of it, which under the name of Cape Cavaliero, projects into the sea — you would have experienced, what the world terms a rough and stormy day. The sky was black and threatening, and the clouds, like some direful omen, VOL. I. R A ROUGH DAT. encompassed the earth ; sharp gusts of wind bent with hurricane force the boughs of mighty oak trees, and laid low the shrubbery around; startling flashes of lightning, which now and then rent the sky in streaks of fire, broke through the awful gloom, and which, for a moment, lit the horizon far and near, revealing a picture of awful sublimity ; peals of thunder, mighty and deafening, broke in ruthless succession over the main, convulsing, as it were, the whole arcana of nature, and causing the mountains and the seas to echo in long fearful sepulchral moans the roar of Heaven's artillery; the waves of the sea, as they rose mountains high or dashed on the base of the headland whereon you stood, added to the confusion and sublimity of the scene, and kept up a fearful requiem between each blast of thunder.

Save the sea-gull, which danced on the crested waves of the rolling deep, nothing animate was to be seen. Like a feather tossed on the waters with the wind in her teeth, and the huge waves dashing on her in merciless fury, you might have seen, at the hour of noon, a small steamer, about five miles off, making for the land. For forty-eight hours had she been disputing her way with the elements, which, it would seem, had combined their power to thwart her purpose. At one moment you would behold the sea making a breach over her, deluging her from stem to stern; at another you would see her on her side, as if she would turn keel upwards; now you would see her ascending a wave as high as her funnel, and again sinking into the trough ; she has hardly recovered from her plunge when a head-wind strikes her most unmercifully on the bows, and sends her reeling backwards.

Staggered and stunned, she makes another effort to oppose the league made against her by THE LITTLE COVE. sea and wind ; she struggles as if with a mighty enemy — rising, falling, trembling, quivering, leaping — now she is on the top of a mountain wave — now she descends head long into the yawning abyss — now rising again, now roll ing furiously; her timbers creaking; her whole form trem bling and straining, she keeps up the strife. Loud shrieks the blast — high mounts the sea — furiously dash the waves, but she perseveres in the combat. It is now late in the afternoon and she is nearer to the headland; the wind and the waves have become less turbulent, and she makes a better headway; she is now coasting the rocky shore, seeking a place where she may anchor till the storm has lulled. A most beautiful little cove, mountain-locked on every side save at the narrow en trance, presents itself; the helm is put hard " a-port," and leaving the raging billows behind her, the little vessel skims over the surging surf, and enters the tranquil bay.

Slowly she creeps, fearful of striking on some hidden rock; the sounding has ceased; the anchor is cast, and now she rides safely at anchor. That steamer was the " Telemaque," by which I had secured my passage from Smyrna to Bayroot: my fellow passengers were five Americans; one of whom, a Mr. Mitchell, of Philadelphia, had come on board with me at Smyrna, and with whom I was previously acquainted, and had intended accompanying in a tour of the Holy Land ; the other four were a party who had come on board at Constantinople, and now were on their way to Jaffa and Jerusalem. As far as Rhodes we had fine weather, but afterwards a continued gale; nor am I aware that, on the two days after leaving the last-men tioned port the table was once set. And in the recollection of that storm I can never THE GARCON. forget the poor garqon.

Poor fellow! how he must have been bewildered by six of us shouting at once —"Gargon!" "Garcon!" " Garqon !" One wanted something to eat; another, a glass of lemonade; and another, a bottle of champagne. He ran— that garcon — as few garcons would run; at the door of each state-room he stood giving us our wants, and such a pleasant look had he that we unanimously voted him a prince of his tribe! But let it not be supposed that the first cabin of the " Telemaque" had only one steward; three we had — one was maitre d'hotel, a head steward or butler, who did nothing but take care of number one and scold the other waiters; another was a freshwater man, shipped this voyage for the first time, and consequently lay in his crib sea-sick, vowing to the Madonna, that this voyage once over he would never set his foot on board another ship again ; and thus it was that our three waiters resolved themselves into one.

It was a glorious sight to see the table set for dinner once more, and on that day we all did justice to the cuisine. Immediately after dinner we went on deck and enjoyed a walk. We were lying at anchor in five fathoms water ; on each side of us rose mountains covered with trees and brushwood to the height of about a thousand feet. Late in the evening we went down into the saloon, and here, in this small cove, we laid the plan of the tour which is the subject of the following pages. At that time Mr. Mitchell was the only one who was to accom pany me, but ere we retired to bed that night all had formed the resolution of landing at Bayroot, and going to Jerusalem by land together. Hence it is that I begin this narrative here. A TOUR THROUGH SYRIA. 5 A tour through Syria is by no means so frightful as many of the good people of the West suppose.

The journey is not over fatiguing, nor is the expense great; indeed, I know of no tour which combines so much cheapness and comfort as a trip to Syria. Leaving England the traveller proceeds to Paris and to Marseilles; then he takes the French steamer, and proceeds either direct to Malta, or goes by way of Genoa, Leghorn, Civita Vec chia, Naples, and Messina; from Malta he can either go to Syria by Alexandria, or by way of Syra, Smyrna, Rhodes and the coast. At Syra he can branch off and visit Athens, returning to Syra in time to take the next steamer which touches there weekly on its way to Smyrna and Constantinople. The steamer arrives at Smyrna on Thursday, and leaves forthwith for Constan tinople; the steamer for Bayroot leaves once a fortnight, so that the traveller, if he is in the odd weekly boat, can have time to visit Constantinople, and then take the steamer to Bayroot.

Landing there he makes a tour of Syria, and then takes the steamer again for Alexandria. Here, after visiting Cairo, he takes the Austrian steamer to Trieste, whence he can easily reach England by way of Vienna and Paris. The reader will now observe that a trip to Syria necesarily takes in the whole of Europe. Now, if we can brine the expense to a reasonable rate, it must prove that a tour to Syria includes all that is most interesting in it; as for the comfort, I need only say that most of the journey is by rail or steam. Every where the traveller will find good accommodation, and he need not be fearful on this score. The expense is exceedingly moderate. You can reach Marseilles, by a first-class carriage, for the trifling sum A TOUR THROUGH STRIA. of 51. From thence you take a ticket for Bayroot, which allows you a scope of four months, landing where ever you please and re-embarking again.

This ticket allows you to go by the Italian line, thus enabling you to stop at Leghorn, proceed to Florence and Rome, and catch the next steamer at Civita Vecchia. These steamers of the Italian line sail at night and anchor all the day, so that plenty of time is allowed you to go and see all that is worth seeing in every town you touch at. After arriving at Malta you are transhipped on board the Constantinople steamer. At Syra, another steamer meets you and takes you on to Athens, and brings you back for the next boat. I am not sure whether this diversion is allowed as part of your ticket, but, at any rate, if not it cannot be very much, as the distance is very short. Arriving at Smyrna you have now, perhaps, to wait ten days for the French steamer to go to Bayroot; this interval you can profitably spend by taking a return ticket to Constantinople, which costs you something like four pounds.

From Smyrna you are taken to Rhodes and Syria, as part of your ticket from Marseilles to Bayroot, and this costs the traveller four hundred and sixty-three francs, or eighteen pounds and ten shillings sterling; to this you add, board on the steamer fifteen days, which includes all the travelling days you have between Marseilles and Bayroot; they charge for your food eight francs a-day, which makes an additional sum of one hundred and twenty francs, or less than five pounds. The tour in Syria, which you can perform in about four weeks ought not to cost you more than a pound a day at farthest; the larger the company is the cheaper you can travel. From Jaffa to Egypt the STEAM COMMUNICATION. 7 sum is trifling — something less than three pounds being the fare. Returning back, via Trieste and Vienna, your passage costs about 351.