Memorials of Edinburgh in the olden time. Second edition

Front matter

MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH IN THE OLDEN TIME A New Edition, with extensive Alterations and Additions, and with fresh Illustrations from the Authors Drawings Jflemortals of Cfctnlmrgl) 3n tfje filtien Cime B\ SIR DANIEL WILSON, LL.D., F.R.S.E. PRESIDENT OF THE UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO AUTHOR OF 'PREHISTORIC ANNALS OF SCOTLAND,' ETC. SECON D EDITION VOLUME I EDINBURGH & LONDON : ADAM & CHARLES BLACK i 89 CONTENTS VOLUME I Note. — In Part I. of this work the incidents are related in chronological order ; and in Part II. according to a systematic arrangement indicated in the headings of the successive chapters.

Chapter I Earliest Traditions Of Edinburgh

Historyof Edinburgh included in that of, its Castle and Abbey, page I — Origin of the town and significance of its name, I — Natural features of site and early notices of Castle, 2 — Evidence of Roman occupation, 3 — Definite history dates from Malcolm III, 3 — Foundation of Abbey of Holyrood, 5 — Legend of the White Hart, 6 — David I. earliest residem monarch of Castle, 6 — Town and Castle sur rendered to Edward I. (1291), 7 — Edinburgh during time of the Bruce, 8 — Parliament of disinherited barons (1333), 9 — Battle of Borough-muir, 9 — Incident of Ramsay and followers in caves at Haw thornden, 10 — Castle recovered by Bullock's ingenious stratagem, 10 — David II makes extensive additions to Castle and dies there ( 1371), 11 — Edinburgh up to this time but a village, 11 — National manners at this period, 12. Old-Edinburgh Ballads— I. "Queen Margaret," 13.

Chapter II Accession Of The Stuarts To Death Of James III

New era in history of Edinburgh begins with accession of Robert II, first of the Stuarts, 16 — Com mencement of intercourse with France, 17 — First Parish Church of St. Giles destroyed, 17 — Remains of Norman doorway, 17 — Henry IV attempts siege of Castle (1400), 18 — Style of domestic building, time of James I. (1430), 19 — Manners of the age, 20 — Coronation of James II at Holyrood, 21 — Boy King, James II, confined in the Castle and adventurous escape, 22 — Murder of Douglas in the Castle, 23 — The old wall, 23 — Marriage of James II and Mary, daughter of Duke of Gueldres, 24 — Foundation of Church and Hospital of the Holy Trinity, 24 — Henry VI (of England's) residence in Grassmarket, 25 — Marriage and coronation of James III and Margaret, Princess of Denmark, 25 — James III a captive in Edinburgh Castle, 26 — Grant of the Golden Charter and Blue Blanket, 27— Privileges conferred on Edinburgh by James III, 28. Old-Edinburgh Ballads— II. "The Twa Queens," 29. CONTENTS XVI

Chapter III From The Accession Of James IV To The Battle Of

FLODDEN James IV crowned at Edinburgh (1488), 32— Royal Tournaments held near Grassmarket, 32— Gawin Douglas, poet, a resident of Edinburgh at this time, 33— Visit of Perkin Warbeck (1495), 34— First Palace of Holyrood, 34— Dunbar and Kennedy, poets, 35— James meets his bride at Dalkeith Castle, 36— Crafts of the Period, 39— Progress of Arts and Letters, 39— Printing introduced into Scotland (1507), 40— General Synod of Clergy (1511), 41— Birth of James V at Linlithgow, 41 -Preparations for Battle of Flodden, 42. Old-Edinburgh Ballads— III. "The Flodden Dead Mass," 44.

Chapter IV From The Battle Of Flodden To The Death Of James

V Defence of the town after Battle of Flodden, and extended city enclosed within walls, 47 — Duke of Albany takes up his residence at Holyrood as Regent, 48— "Cleanse the Causeway," 50— Sports of James V, 51 — James V, solemn entry into city (1524), 52 — Turbulence of the nobles, 53— Lindsay's Complaint os the Papingo, 53 — Premonitory reforming doctrines, 54 — Establishment of the College of Justice (1537), 54 — James's marriage with Princess Magdalen of France, 54 — Queen's premature death, 55 — First mourning dresses worn, 55 — Lady Glamis burnt alive on Castle Hill, 56 — Champion fight at Holyrood, 58 — Arrival of Mary of Guise (the new queen, 1538), 58 — Earliest Scottish drama played at Linlithgow (1539), 58 — Death of James V at Falkland, 5S. Old-Edinburgh Ballads— IV. " Maye Marion," 60.

Chapter V From The Death Of James

V TO THE ABDICATION OF QUEEN MARY Cardinal Beaton nominated Regent, 64 — Burning of the town by the Earl of Hertford (1544), 66 — John Knox's return to Scotland, 76 — Sumptuous banquet given to the Danish ambassador, 77 — Image of St. Giles thrown into the North Loch, 78 — Issue of Knox's famous Blast, 80 — Destruction of ecclesi astical buildings, 81 — Assault by Queen's French soldiers, 83 — Batteries on Leith Links, 85 — Death of the Queen Regent (1560), 87 — Parliament assembled in Edinburgh, 87 — Confession of Faith drawn up, 87 — Corn market removed to the Grassmarket, 88 — Markets and open shops prohibited on Sundays, 88 — Queen Mary lands at Leith (1561), and takes up her residence at Holyrood, 89 — Knox's interview with Queen Mary, 90 — Mary's public entry into her capital (1561), 90 — First coach brought into Scotland, 90 — Erection of the Tolbooth, 92 — Earl of Mar's marriage in St. Giles's Church, 93 — Change in Arms and Burgh Seal, 94 — Serious street affrays, 94 — Mary's first presence at the Parliament, 95 — Attacks on the priests, 95 — Darnley proclaimed King at the Market Cross (1565), 96 — Assassination of David Rizzio, 97 — Queen Mary's Bath, 99 — Birth of James VI (1566) in the Castle, 100 — Murder of Lord Darnley, 101 — Bothwell's ravishment of the Queen and her surrender to Lord Morton at Carberry Hill, 101 — The Black Turnpike, 102 — Mary's farewell to Holyrood and imprisonment at Lochleven Castle, 102. Old-Edinburgh Ballads — V. "Queen Mary," 103.

Chapter VI From The Accession Of James VI To The Restoration Of

CHARLES II Stirling Castle a favourite royal residence, 107 — The Regent Murray and his tomb in St. Giles's Church, 107 — Sir William Kirkaldy's valiant defence of the Castle, 108 — Wappin-schawing in Greyfriars' CONTENTS XVII churchyard, 109 — Death of John Knox, the Reformer (1572), 109 — The Regent Morton, 110 — Castle surrendered to Sir William Drury, 11 1 — James VI's assumption of government and his reception by the magistrates, 112 — Earl of Morton beheaded by his own instrument, "The Maiden" (1581), 113 — James's marriage (1590) with Anne of Denmark, 113 — Entertainment in the "Cunzie House," 115 — James's home-life at Edinburgh and visits to George Heriot, jeweller, 116 — Death of Queen Elizabeth of England, 117 — James's farewell address and departure for London (1603), 117 — Revisits Edinburgh (1617) after fourteen years' absence, 117 — Holyrood Palace and Abbey repaired, 118 — Second farewell (1617), 118 — Ben Jonson's visit to Scotland, 118 — Accession and reception of Charles I, 118 — Drummond of Hawthornden and Jamesone, "The Scottish Vandyke," 119 — Laud's attempt to establish Episcopacy, 119 — St. Giles's Church appointed cathedral, 120 — Jenny Geddes's adventure, 120 — "The Covenant" signed in Greyfriars' churchyard, 121 — Charles visits Edinburgh (1641), 122 — Fondness for golf, 122 — Covenanters abolish Episcopacy, 122 — Leslie appointed General, 122 — Arrival of Oliver Cromwell (164S) at Moray House, Canongate, 122 — Proclamation at the Cross of Charles II, 123 — Execution of the Marquis of Montrose, 123 — Charles agrees to subscribe the Covenant, 123 — Arrival of Parliamentary forces, 123 — Cromwell's victory at Dunbar, 124 — Edinburgh subjected to martial law, 124 — Punishment of "Riding the Mare," 124 — Dunbar's Close, 125 — Cromwell preaches in St. Giles's Church, 125 — Undermines the Castle, 125 — Destruction of Holyrood Palace (1650) by fire, 125 — Removal of the old weigh-house, 126 — City pulpits occupied by Cromwell's soldiers, 126 — Erection of Leith Citadel, 126 — Statue of Charles II substituted for Cromwell, 127 — General Monk commander-in-chief of army in Scot land, 128.

Old-Edinburgh Ballads— VI. " The West Bow," 129.

Chapter VII Historical Incidents After The Restoration

Rejoicings at restoration of Charles II, 131 — " Riding of Parliament " from Holyrood to the Tol booth, 131 — Attainder of the Marquis of Montrose revoked, 131 — Renewed attempt at restoration of Episcopacy, 132 — Execution of the Marquis of Argyle, 132 — Barbarous enactments against Presbyterian Nonconformists, 133 — Bishop of Orkney shot, 133 — Burning at the stake of Major Weir, " The Wizard," 134 — Cruel imprisonment of Covenanters after Battle of Bothwell Bridge, 134 — Arrival (1680) of the Duke of York (afterwards James VII), 134 — Splendid court kept at Holyrood, 135 — First introduction of tea into Scotland, 135 — Balls, masquerades, and plays, 135 — Tennis and golf, 136 — The "Golfer's Land," 136 — Burning the pope in effigy, and students' riots, 137 — Bursting of the famous cannon " Mons Meg," 137 — Death of Charles II (1685), 138 — Duke of York proclaimed as King James VII, 138 — Abbey Church of Holyrood refitted for Roman Catholic service, 138 — Fresh riots, 138 — Fall of the House of Stuart and forfeiture of throne declared by Scottish Parliament, 139 — Proclamation of William and Mary as King and Queen of Scotland (1688), 139 — "Bonnie Dundee," 139 — Darien House and the famous Darien expedition, 140 — The Union of Scotland with England and last meeting of the Scottish Parliament ( 16th January 1707), 143 — General discontent and Porteous Mob, 142-144 — The Porteous Mob, 145 — Exasperation of Queen Caroline at the affair, 145 — The Lord Provost imprisoned and the city fined, 145 — Panic among the citizens on the arrival of Prince Charles's forces (1745), 146 — Prince Charles Edward takes up his quarters in Holyrood Palace, 146 — Battle of Prestonpans, 147 — The town cannonaded from the Castle, 147 — The Prince leaves for England, 148 — Arrival of the Duke of Cumberland in Edinburgh, 148 — Damage done to the paintings in Holyrood Palace during his occupation, 148 — Fourteen standards taken from the rebels at Culloden burnt at the Market Cross, 148 — The freedom of the city voted to the Duke of Cumberland by the new Town Council (1746), 148 — Trial and acquittal of the Lord Provost, 149 — The house of the Lord Provost in the West Bow, 149 — The appearance of the city at that date, 150 — Demolition of the Nether Bow (1764), 150 — Removal of the city cross, 151 — Its restoration by the Right Hon. W. E. Gladstone, M.P., 152 — Fragments of city wall of 1513 still standing, 153 — Demolition of ancient buildings in Edinburgh, 154.

Old-Edinburgh Ballads— VII. "St. Anthony's Well," 155. CONTENTS XVIII

Part II

— LOCAL ANTIQUITIES AND TRADITIONS CHAPTER"! THE CASTLE Date of erection of principal portion of the fortifications, 159 — Formation of the present esplanade, 160 — Curious sculptures, 161 — State prison, 161 — Viscount Dundee climbs the Castle rock and holds an interview with the Duke of Gordon, 162— Royal palace of the Castle, 162— Memorable incidents connected with the great hall, 163— Birth of James VI (1566), 163— French prisoners' vault, 164— The crown-room and regalia, 166— References to churches within the Castle, 166— St. Margaret's Chapel, 167 — Mons Meg, 169— Supposed subterranean passages leading to the Castle, 171— The Castle Hill the scene of numerous executions, 173 — Novel character conferred upon it, 173.

CHAPTER II KING'S STABLES, CASTLE BARNS, AND CASTLE HILL

Character of the domestic architecture of Edinburgh, 175 — The King's Stables, 177 — The scene of the famous tournaments of the time of James IV, 177 — Purchase of the King's Stables by the Town Council in 1661, 178 — The Castle Barns, 179 — Picturesque houses of the Castle Hill, 179 — Town mansion of the Gordon family, 179 — Residence of the authoress of "The Flowers of the Forest," 182 — Dr. Webster, 182 — Mansion of the Earl of Dumfries, 183 — Supposed baptismal fonts, 184 — Allan Ramsay's house, 185 — Ramsay Lane, 186 — Mansion of the Sempill family, 188 — Palace of Mary of Guise, 189 — Discoveries on its demolition, 191 — Interesting features of Mary of Guise's palace, 193 — Its heraldic carvings, 195 — Mansion of the Hope family, 197 — Jewel-box of Mary of Guise, 199 — Departed glories of the Guise palace, 201 — Curious sacred paintings, 202.

CHAPTER III THE LAWNMARKET

Origin of its name, 204 — The weigh-house or "butter trone," 204 — Milne's Court, 205 — David Hume's house, 207 — Dr. Johnson and Boswell, 208 — Thomas Gladstone's house, 210 — Lady Stair's Close, 210 — Manners of the time, 211 — George Paton, the antiquary, 211 — Visitations of the plague, 213 — Robert Burns's lodging in Baxter's Close, 214 — Burns and Nasmyth, 215 — Major Weir's Land, 217 — Landscape paintings of Old Norie, 217 — House of Bailie Macmoran, 218 — Distinguished resid ents, 219 — Mansion of the Littles of Craigmillar, 220 — Deacon Brodie, 222 — The Old Bank Close, 223 — Execution of the Earl of Morton (1581), 226 — Historic associations of Robert Gourlay's house, 228— Assassination of Sir George Lockhart (1689), 230 — Johnnie Dowie's Tavern, Libberton's Wynd, 234 — Burke and Hare, 235 — Forrester's Wynd, 235 — The Lawnmarket a favourite place of residence, 237.

CHAPTER IV THE TOLBOOTH, LUCKENBOOTHS, AND PARLIAMENT CLOSE

" The Heart of Mid-Lothian," 238 — Site of the Tolbooth, 239 — Its demolition in 1817, 239 — Date of ils erection, 240 — Its construction and ornamentation, 240- Parliament of James II held in the Tolbooth (1451), 241— Meaning of the term " Tolbooth," 241 — Heads of the Earl of Morton and the CONTENTS XIX Marquis of Montrose exposed on the Tolbooth, 242 — The " Purses," 242 — The Blue Gowns : their origin and emoluments, 243 — The Tolbooth the place of public execution after 1785, 244 — The town guard accommodated in it, 244 — The utility of the town guard, 245 — Pageant at the Tolbooth on the occasion of Charles I. 's visit (1633), 245 — Workshop of George Heriot, 245— Associations connected with the Tolbooth, 246 — Its efficacy as a refuge from the emissaries of justice, 247 — Susannah, Countess of Eglinton, 248 — The cases of Mrs. Macleod and Katharine Nairn contrasted, 250, 251 — The Tolbooth and the Porteous Mob, 252 — Visit of Howard to it (1782), 253 — Its demolition in 1817, 253 — Opinions and suggested improvements on the High Street, 254 — Ancient buildings between the Tolbooth and the Cross, 255 — Creech's Land : Allan Ramsay's circulating library established there, 652 — Gay, the poet, 256 — Allan Ramsay's shop the resort of the literati of Edinburgh, 257 — Lord Provost Kincaid, 257 — Smollett's visit to Edinburgh in 1776, 257 — William Creech : his eminence in the publishing world, 25S — His Fugitive Pieces, 258— Burns's descriptions of him, 258 — The Mirror and lounger issued by Creech, 259 — The "Mirror Club": its members and meetings, 259 — The New Tolbooth, 260 — Its occupation, first by the Scottish Parliaments and College of Justice, and latterly by the Town Council, 260 — Discovery of portrait of Mary of Guise on the demolition of the Laigh Hall, 261 — James VI and the citizens (1596), 261 — Date of the last Parliament held within the New Tolbooth, 262 — Execution of the Earl of Argyle (1685), 262 — Parliament Close, 263 — Site of the ancient churchyard of St.

Giles, 263 — Demolition of the Chapel of the Holy Rood (15,59), 265 — Ejection of the ministers from the collegiate buildings of St. Giles's by King James in 1597, 265 — Parliament House : banquet within the great hall to General Monk in 1656, and to the Duke and Duchess of York in 1680, 265 — Equestrian statue of King Charles II, 266 — Original position of the Parliament House, 266 — Interesting original documents relating to property in the Parliament Close, 267 — Account of the "Great Fire" of 1700, 269 — The Advocates' Library : eminent men associated with it, 271 — Rebuilding of the houses destroyed in the Great Fire, 271 — Connection of the Wemyss family with the Porteous Mob, 272 — John's Coffee-house, 272 — Convivial habits of the eighteenth century, 273 — Currie's Tavern, Craig's Close, 273 — Sir William Forbes, 273 — The print-shop of John Kay, 273 — The Back Stairs, 273 — Providing the silver spunes, 274 — Description of the exterior of the old Parliament House, 274 — The Great Hall, 275 — Its ancient decorations, 276 — The scene of many historic incidents, 277 — Scottish prisoners confined in the "laich Parliament Hous," 277 — Its darker associations, 278 — Trial of Richard Rumbold, 278 — Turbulent scenes during the sitting of the Convention, 279 — Excitement regarding the Treaty of Union, 280 — Famous names connected with Scotland's Westminster Hall, 280 — Lively celebrations on the King's birthday, 281 — Effacement of the antique and imposing features of the Parliament Close, 281. b VOL. I LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS VOLUME I PLATES i. ANCIENT HOUSES, CASTLE HILL. 2.

PORTRAIT OF THE NORTH ENTRY TO THE PARISH KIRK OF EDINBURGH. 3. TRINITY COLLEGE CHURCH FROM THE SOUTH-WEST. 4. BLACKFRIARS' WYND. 5. HOLYROOD CHAPEL: ENTRANCE TO THE ROYAL VAULT. 6. THE GREAT HALL, TRINITY HOSPITAL. 7. ST. MARY'S CHURCH, SOUTH LEITH. 8. HEART OF MID-LOTHIAN. 9. THE WEST BOW FROM THE CASTLE ROAD (1843), 10. OLD TOLBOOTH, LEITH. 11. TRINITY COLLEGIATE CHURCH FROM CRAIG END. 12. DUNBAR'S CLOSE, HIGH STREET. 13. THE GOLFER'S LAND, CANONGATE. 14. PISCINA, PALACE OF MARY OF GUISE, CASTLE HILL. 15. HALL IN MARY OF GUISE'S PALACE. 16. EDWARD HOPE'S HOUSE, TODD'S CLOSE, CASTLE HILL. 17. THE WEIGH-HOUSE— TAKEN DOWN 1822. 18. RIDDLE'S CLOSE, LAWNMARKET : BAILIE MACMORAN'S HOUSE. 19. OLD BANK CLOSE— TAKEN DOWN 1835. 20. GOSFORD'S CLOSE, LAWNMARKET— TAKEN DOWN 1835. WOOD ENGRAVINGS, ETC PAGE Ancient Carved Stone, Edinburgh Castle .

I Sculptured Stone from the Old Barrier Gate, Edinburgh Castle 8 PAGE The Castle, from a Map of 1575, showing King David's Tower . . . .11 Corbel from St. Giles's Church ... LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS XXII PAGE The old High Street, looking east 16 Ancient Houses near the Kirk-of-Field, from a Map 1575 19 Mary of Gueldres' Arms, from her Seal . 24 Bishop Kennedy's Arms, St. Giles's Church 28 The Castle, from the West Port, 1640 32 North-east Pillar, St. Giles's Choir . . 33 Vaulted Gateway to the Abbey Court, Holyrood 35 Ancient Padlock, dug up in the Greyfriars' Churchyard, 184 1 36 The City Cross ...... 43 James the Fifth's Tower, Holyrood, previous *o 1554 46 Norman Capital, Holyrood Abbey . . 59 The Black Turnpike ..... 63 Ancient Chapel, Kirkgate, Leith . . 71 Corbel, old South Door, St. Giles's Church 82 Saint Giles, from the City Seal, 1565 . . 93 Queen Mary's Bath 98 Carved Stone in the Castle, containing the Cipher of Queen Mary and Henry Lord Darnley ....... 100 Holyrood Chapel ..... 106 The Maiden . . . . .112 Jenny Geddes's Stool . . . . .120 The Citadel, Leith . . 127 The Parliament House, about 1646 131 The Darien HouSe 140 PAGE The Capital of the City Cross . . .

IS» Interior of Tower, Flodden Wall, in the Vennel IS2 The Castle, about r 7 50 . . . . 159 French Prisoners' Vault in the Castle . .165 Mouldings of Chancel Arch, St. Margaret's Chapel, in the Castle .... 167 Lintel from the Guise Palace, Blyth's Close 175 Crow-steps, from the Mint . . .176 Cipher of Robert Mowbray of Castlewan . 183 St. Anne's Yard, Holyrood . . . 184 Gothic Niche, Kennedy's Close, Castle Hill 185 Lord Sempill's House, Castle Hill . . 189 Carved Doorway, from the Guise Palace . 191 Sculptured Lintel, Blyth's Close . . 192 Large Gothic Niche, Blyth's Close .198 Jewel Box of Mary of Guise . . . r99 Ancient Niches, Blyth's Close . . . 200 Painted Oak Beam, from the Guise Chapel 203 Gladstone's Land, Lawnmarket . . . 204 Ancient Lintel, Lady Stair's Close . . 212 Ancient Corbel, from the Old Bank Close . 223 Carved Stone, from the Old Bank Close . 228 Carved Stone, do., from Ellis Collection . 231 North side of the Tolbooth . . . 238 Two Members of the Old Town Guard . 245 The Pleasance ...... 256 The Old Parliament Stairs .... 274 Ancient Plan.

BIRD'S EVE VIEW OF EDINBURGH IN 1647, By James Gordon of Rothiemay. MEMORIALS OF EDINBURGH IN THE OLDEN TIME sCIEl I HOUSES CASTLE HI TAKEN DOWN- 1 .--avur-e_. Pr-inled ;n Pans to tht _^ttonh (SMtiott UPWARDS os half a century has elapsed since the work was begun with pen and pencil which finally assumed form as the Memorials of Edinburgh in the Olden Tune. Buildings which had survived from elder centuries, and perpetuated associations of the Scottish capital with national history, were being rapidly effaced in the progress of civic improvements ; and thus a collection of drawings of its picturesque features acquired ere long a factitious value as memorials of a vanished past. From those, accordingly, the illustra tions were selected ; and additions have been made to them in the present edition from the same source, with the aid of some of the novel processes introduced in recent years.

When the plans were matured for thus preserving some record of Old Edinburgh in this its latest transitional stage, a publisher was found who undertook to carry them out on the terms of sharing with the author profit or loss. The work was published accordingly ; accounts were rendered, and I paid my share of the reported deficit, interleaved a copy, and from time to time made notes with a view to a second edition. As I had furnished the text, supplied all the drawings — the originals of which are still in my possession, — and also drawn nearly the whole of the vignette illustrations on the wood, not only without receiving any remuneration, but had also borne my share of the loss on the first edition, it never occurred to me to doubt that the copyright remained under my control. It was there fore with no less surprise than mortification that I learned, in 1872,

Preface

VI of the issue of a reprint of my work without my being even afforded the opportunity of amending the text. I had been for years in " another world," and my literary affairs were being administered as those of one who had died intestate. The work of revision, which was thus rendered abortive, had brought me anew into pleasant correspondence with antiquarian friends, and enabled me to turn to account the fruits of much independ ent research. The late Charles Kirkpatrick Sharpe amused himself with annotating, and occasionally illustrating with pencilled sketches, a set of proof sheets, from which I have since borrowed for my Reminiscences of Old Edinburgh. Abundant materials had thus been accumulated for a revised text when I obtained sight of the reissue with this note appended to my old preface : " This edition is an exact reprint of the original work, with the exception that where buildings have been removed, or other alterations made, the fact is stated, either in a footnote or otherwise."

One specimen of such editorial revision may suffice. On p. 394 Trinity College Church is referred to as "the beautiful edifice which stood at the foot of Leith Wynd." But only a few lines later the reader is told that " as it now stands, it consists of the choir and transepts," etc. Then, to bring this curious record up to the editor's ideal of consistent lucidity, a footnote is added which states that the church " is now being rebuilt on a new site, the stones having been almost entirely preserved"; which, alas, every reader knows to be wide indeed of the actual fact. Among the varied experiences of a long life, not the least curious has been this participation in those of a deceased author. My volumes have been a free common for poachers. I have not only seen my drawings reproduced — with a difference, as the heralds say, — and my woodcuts employed, without acknowledgment, to illustrate the writings of other authors ; but they have even appropriated my blunders !

Some of the results might almost merit a place among the curiosities of literature. Beguiled by the conjunction of the arms of Robert, Duke of Albany, the son of Robert II, with those of Archibald, fourth Earl of Douglas, the brother-in-law of the ill-fated

PREFACE.

VII David, Duke of Rothesay, first noted by me as occurring on the same pillar in the north-west aisle of St. Giles's Collegiate Church : I was tempted to weave a romance, in which I gave the name of the Albany Chapel to the beautiful aisle with its two bays and finely groined roof ; and suggested its origin as possibly an expiatory act of the two nobles for their reputed share in the murder of the Duke of Rothesay. Maturer reflection satisfied me of the inconsistency of such an avowal of guilt with their known course of action. But though the old text has been amended in the present edition, the fancy of my youth meets me on all hands as well-accredited history, receiving not only prominence, but dramatic amplification, from successive appropriators. The historian of St. Giles', Church, College, atid Cathedral, dis cusses the probabilities of the story as a current tradition, and after noting the ominous conjunction of the arms of Albany and Douglas sculptured on the pillar, he adds, " It is conjectured that these chapels were built by them in expiation of the crime " : though, as he suggests, more probably only to win the favour of the Church.

But, dealing with the conjecture as of genuine antiquity, he adds, "these chapels still bear the name of the Albany Aisle," as though that were a designation as familiar to the student of the Registrum Cart arum Ecclesie Sancti Egidii de Edinburgh as the Holy Blood Aisle, or the Chapels of St. Eloi and St. John the Evangelist. Dr. William Chambers, in his historical sketch of the cathedral appended to the "St. Giles's Lectures" of 1881, adopts the legend without any qualifying doubt. "The aisle," says he, "takes its name from Robert, Duke of Albany, the second son of King Robert II, who» having been entrusted with the custody of his nephew David, Duke of Rothesay, cruelly starved him to death in a dungeon in the Castle of Falkland, 1402. Though escaping punishment for this atrocious act, Albany and his prime associate, Archibald, fourth Earl of Douglas, seem to have been haunted with a consciousness of guilt ; " and so the chapel and the heraldic bearings of its sculptured capital are once more adduced in evidence. It is instructive to trace the successive stages of this evolutionary

PREFACE.

VIII process ; for it is easy to see how, in the absence of our tell-tale printing press, conjecture could grow to surmise, and fancy develop into tradition ; and so the story, embalmed in the uncritical pages of some monkish chronicler, be transferred from thence to those of the modern historian, and become a fairly accredited "fact." The legend of " The Albany Aisle," fashioned out of its heraldic sculpturings, is no older than the year 1847. But, introduced as it has been to the historic muse by such reputable sponsors, there seems little to prevent this immature fancy taking its place among well-accredited traditions, if not, indeed, well-established facts ; while admirers of the beautiful aisle derive fresh zest from the assurance the church's historian gives them of "this remarkably fine pillar surviving as a memento of a terrible tragedy in Scottish history, and of the remorse which it occasioned !

" Some of the stages through which productions of my pen and pencil have thus passed in their adaptation to rival pages of " original " research are not without a touch of comedy. But one appropriation has a unique character that gives it a claim to pre-eminence. Sundry pieces of verse, dealing with local historical associations, find a place in my Reminiscences of Old Edinburgh, as well as in a little volume entitled Spring Wild Floivers. It was a pleasant recreation, while groping among old chartularies, burgh records, and dusty parchments of all sorts, to weave some prosaic allusion into a ballad romance. The idea has been more fully realised in the present edition; and sundry " Old - Edinburgh ballads" from the same mint relieve the monotony of antiquarian narrative. But also, the masquerading of "the marvellous boy" of Bristol, re animating with the pen of "Rowley" the church of St. Mary Redcliffe with Canynge, Lydgate, and others of the times of " The Roses," had taken stronghold of my fancy ; and has since been dealt with in Chatterton : a biographical study.

Defaced and disenchanted as St. Giles's then seemed, beyond hope of restoration, the traditions of older centuries lingered around the desecrated fane. Why not re animate the past, and people it anew with the men of a more brilliant

PREFACE.

IX age than the closing years of the Lancastrian dynasty. Had it not its own chivalrous era of the Flodden King, with Dunbar and Kennedy ; the Scottish Caxton, Chepman ; or, best of all, its own provost, Gawin Douglas, a truer poet than Lydgate ? Hence the ballad of "The Flodden Dead Mass," inserted in the first edition in a footnote, as best befitting what made no pretence to historic or traditionary basis. But, not a little to my surprise, I find this sport of early fancy promoted to the text of the history of St. Giles , Edinburgh : Church, College, and Cathedral, in company with the genuine legends of Flodden which we owe to the pen of Lindsay of Pitscottie. After an allusion to the warning given to James IV by the mysterious apparition that intruded on his devotions in the choir of Linlithgow Church, and the vision of the ghostly heralds on the Cross of Edinburgh, the historian of St. Giles's produces, as un surpassed in picturesqueness by either of those old familiar legends, " the romantic story which has been located within the walls of St. Giles's. Whether it be founded on legend as old as the time of Flodden, or is altogether of more modern origin, is," he says, "of little moment."