The Abode of Snow, observations on a journey from Chinese Tibet to the Indian Caucasus, through the upper valleys of the Himalaya

Front matter

THE VALLEY OF GLACIERS. THE ABODE OF SNOW OBSERVATIONS ON A JOURNEY FROM CHINESE TIBET TO THE INDIAN CAUCASUS, THROUGH THE UPPER VALLEYS OF THE HIMALAYA BY ANDREW WILSON WILLIAM BLACKWOOD AND SONS EDINBURGH AND LONDON MDCCCLXXV PKEFACE. In the twenty-ninth chapter of this work, I have fully explained how the phrase " Abode of Snow " is a literal translation of the Sanscrit compound " Himalaya," and therefore forms an appropriate title for a work treating of those giant mountains. The Abode of Snow par excellence is not in the Himalaya, or even in the Arctic region, but (setting Saturn aside) in the Ant arctic region. Owing to the greater preponderance of ocean in the southern hemisphere, the greatest ac cumulation of ice is round the South Pole ; and hence the not improbable theory that, when the accumula tion has reached a certain point, the balance of the earth must be suddenly destroyed, and this orb shall almost instantaneously turn transversely to its axis, moving the great oceans, and so producing one of those cyclical catastrophes which, there is some reason to believe, have before now interfered with the development and the civilisation of the human race. How near such a catastrophe may be, and whether, a

Preface

. IV when it occurs, a few just men (and, it is to be hoped, women also) will certainly be left in the upper valleys of the Himalaya, I am unable to say ; but it is well to know that there is an elevated and habitable region of the earth which is likely to be left undepopulated even by such an event as that just alluded to. Whether humanity will lose or gain by having to begin again from the simple starting-point of " Om mani padme haun " {vide Chapter XXXV.) is also a subject on which I feel a little uncertain ; but we may at least hope that the jewel in the lotus will' not be lost ; that what has accrued to it from the efforts and the agony of so many thousand years, of so many hundreds of human generations, may pass over to the inhabitants of a newly -formed earth. And when we come to consider what the grand valuable results of this our awful striving, our dread history, have been, most of what we are given to boast of will have to be relinquished as worthless, and we may, even as Christians, be glad to take refuge in the comprehensive Lama prayer, " 0 God, consider the jewel in the lotus.

Thy will be done." For, however appalling may have been the amount of human crime and woe, however pitiable our mistakes and ineffectual our struggles, there has ever been a jewel in the rank lotus of human life — some thing beautiful in it which is not of it, yet is mysteri ously connected with, and hidden within, it. Viewed in this light the Lama prayer has a touching signifi cance, and is not without a great lesson for us all.

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. V But the Himalaya may have many visitors before that other Abode of Snow turns things topsy-turvy, if it ever do so ; and these, I hope, may find my book of some service. It was not for them, however, that this volume was written, but for those who have never seen and may never see the Himalaya. I have sought, in however imperfect a manner, to enable such readers in some degree to realise what these great mountains are, — what scenes of beauty and grandeur they present — what is the character of the simple people who dwell among them — and what are the incidents the traveller meets with, his means of conveyance, and his mode of life. In attempting this I have had to struggle with what a kindly critic has called " the utterly unknown," and have been compelled, as a necessary part of the enterprise, to make my pages bristle with names and other words which are quite unfamiliar, and indeed for the most part entirely new, to the ordinary English reader — the very individual whose interest I wTant to engage.

It has also been necessary to introduce some details of physical science, ethnology, archæology, and history ; but these have been subordinated to the general aim of producing an intelligible idea of the region described. Perhaps I may be excused for suggesting that some little effort on the reader's part is also called for, if indeed my labours are of any value, — which I am by no means sure of. If there were any merit at all in my journey it lay only in the condition of body in which I commenced VI

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. it and carried it through, and in the determination with which, despite serious discouragement, I pursued what appeared to be a desperate remedy. My original intention was only to visit Masiiri and Simla, and have a distant view of the Himalaya ; but the first glimpse of the Jumnotri and Gangotri peaks excited long ings which there was no need to restrain, and I soon perceived that the air of the hill-stations could be of no use to me. So I set off from Simla, determined above all things to keep as high up as I could, and to have a snowy range between me and the Indian monsoon, and then, so far as consonant with that, to visit as many places of interest as possible. It probably would have been better had I been able to take more notes on the way ; but the great fatigue of the journey, and the strain arising, from my being alone, were rather too much for me ; and sometimes, for several days at a time, I could do no more than note down the name of the village where we camped, and the temperature at day break.

There are many subjects, especially relating to the latter part of my journey, on which I wished to write at length, but found it inexpedient to do so in order not longer to delay the publication of this volume. As it is, I feel deeply indebted for its having been written at all to the encouragement, consideration, and ad vice of Mr Blackwood, the Editor of the famous Magazine which bears his name, and in which a great part, but not the whole, of this narrative originally

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. VII appeared. From the outset he sympathised warmly with my plan, and throughout he never failed to cheer my flagging spirits with generous praise, not to speak of other encouragement. Then he gave me a great deal of admirable advice. There is nothing that is commoner in this world than advice — nothing that is showered down upon one with more liberal profusion ; but there is nothing rarer than judicious useful advice, the first condition of which is sympathetic appreciation of what one would be at ; and it Avas this invaluable kind of advice which Mr Blackwood freely tendered, pointing out where the treatment of my subject required expansion, or aiding me by his knowledge of the world and profoundly appreciative literary taste. I am charmed to find that the lotus of literature con tains such a jewel ; and I must say, also, that both the Messrs Blackwood did me essential service by the con sideration they displayed when I sent in my manu script at unreasonable times, or altered proofs unmer cifully at the last moment.

Prince Bismarck said to* Count Arnim that the business of the Prussian Foreign Office could not be carried on if every Embassy were to conduct itself in the way that of Paris did ; and I am sure the business of Maga could not be carried on at all if all its contributors were to try its patience as I did. I was much indebted also to an old friend — a genius loci and yet a man of European celebrity — who at the commencement of the appearance of my articles wrote

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. VIII to me in terms of the warmest encouragement. It may be that the favour with which the original articles appear to have been received may stand in the way of success now that they are reproduced in book-form ; so I may mention that, though long passages have not been added to this reprint, yet very many short ones have ; the interstices, so to speak, have been filled up; greater accuracy has been attained ; and the whole work has been recast, and that into a form which, I venture to believe, will make it more acceptable to all readers ; and I am led to hope that this may be so, among other reasons, by the fact that an American publishing house, G. P. Putnam's Sons, New York, has already prepared stereotyped plates of my book, Avith a vieAV to republication across the Atlantic. I feel some regret at not having been able either to repress my outbreaks on the difficult subject of the policy Avhich ought to be pursued in governing India, or to enter into the question in a fuller and more satis factory manner than I have done ; but while that subject lay beyond the proper scope of this work, it was one which the incidents of my journey naturally led me incidentally to refer to.

I shall now only express my profound conviction, that if India were more directly governed with an enlightened view to our own national interests than it is at present, it would be far better for the people of India ; that it is the English in India, far more than the Bengal ryot, the educated native, or the Indian prince, who have

PREFACE.

. IX reason to complain of the British Eaj ; and that, under a superficial appearance of contentment and progress, there are gathering forces, mostly powerless for good, Avhich may at any moment break forth with destruc tive fury, and are certain to do so Avhenever the energies of this country are more fully occupied else- Avhere. It may be fancied that some of my descriptions of Avhat I encountered among the Himalaya are some what exaggerated, and especially, I understand, the achievements of the little pony which carried me over the great Shigri glacier. A lady writing to me on this subject remarks : " Had I not known you to be scrupulously truthful — in fact, fastidiously careful in the use of language, lest it might convey a shade of meaning beyond the thought, opinion, or fact, you wished to express — I might have regarded some of your descriptions as exaggerated; but I consider accuracy, both verbal (that is, in the use of Avords) and in the statement of facts, to be one of your strong points — barring and excepting in the making of promises with respect to letter-Avriting."

So I have carefully recon sidered eATerything which might appear to bear the marks of exaggeration, and, while finding almost nothing to alter on that ground, haA^e thought it best to say nothing about one or two incidents Avhich might really appear incredible. I have only to add on this sub ject, that the state of Himalayan paths differs some- Avhat from year to year, according to the amount of

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. X labour expended upon them, and the landslips which occur. The frontispiece and vignette to this volume are both taken from photographs of Messrs Shepherd & Bourne of Calcutta and Simla, who sent up an expedition into Spiti, and have provided the public with many admirable photographs of Himalayan scenery, all, or most of which, are obtainable in London. The frontispiece represents a view in the Shigri Valley, or Valley of Glaciers, looking doAvn the Chandra river, near to where my first camp in that valley was pitched; but the snoAV has been brought down a little lower by the lithographer, in order to represent the scene as it was Avhen I saw it; and the figure of a yak, along with some thing like my tent, have been added to the foreground. The vignette gives a very fair idea of a Himalayan highway, and of one of those jhulas, or twig-bridges, which I have described in Chapter" XXI.

The bridge represented is in the upper Spiti valley, between Dan kar and Mani, and differs from those usually to be met with only in that it does not cross a deeply-sunk torrent. The map Avhich accompanies this volume has been based on a section of a large school-map of India by the Rev. J. Barton, published under the direction of Committees of the Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge and of the National Society. Mr Trelawney Saunders, the Geographer to the East India Office, has given this school-map his valuable aid in bringing out

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. XI clearly the various mountain-ranges to the north of India; and I found, after examining many maps, that no other which I could avail myself of Avould serATe so well as the basis of a small map which would present at a glance the relative positions of the Panjdb plain, the Western Himalaya, the Hindu Kiish, and the Kara korum Mountains. It seemed to me of much more importance to convey a general idea of that vast and little-knoAvn district of mountainous country than to present a detailed plan of my oavu route ; for only those who are in, or are about to enter, the districts I traversed, will have any object in folloAving me from stage to stage ; and they can do so much better in Major Montgomerie's route-map and the five mile to the inch sheets of the Trigonometrical Survey, than in any map Avhich it Avould be advisable for me to prepare.

At the same time, I haAre marked my route carefully in the map which I present ; I have added to it a large number of places Avhich I visited, and have altered the spelling in accordance with that of my book. That matter of spelling has caused no little trouble. It may not be generally knoAvn in this country that some years ago the Indian Government determined that Indian names should be sj>elt, at least in all official documents and publications, on one system. The system is based on the Jonesian-Wilsonian system of transliteration, as modified by the oriental societies, and has further been modified for practical purposes

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. by Dr W. W. Hunter, the head of the Indian Statisti cal Department. It partakes of the nature of a com promise, for accents are only used when specially necessary, and not as marking intonation, but only as indicating different vowel-sounds ; and in the lists drawn up by Dr Hunter they are used very sparingly, and are omitted in some cases where they might have been added with advantage. I haAre followed these official lists in most instances, and the simple rules to be borne in mind in order to render their system of spelling intelligible are that, — 1. The long d sounds broadly, as in almond. 2. The short a without an accent, has usually some- Avhat of aw sound, as the a in rural. 3. The i with an accent, is like ee, or the i in ravine. 4. The ii with an accent is like oo, or the u in bull. 5.

The e has a broad sound, as the a in dare. 6. The o sounds openly, as in note. 7. The ai sounds as in aisle, or the i in high. 8. The au sounds like ou in cloud. The most striking peculiarities of this system are the substitution of ii for oo, of i for ee, and the expression of broad a by d. It totally ignores the genius of the English language, and may be considered as an other instance of that subjection of England to India Avhich has been going on of late years. Another objection to it is, that it is not thoroughgoing, and is apt to land the a and the u sounds in hopeless con fusion ; AA-hile a third is, that it is liable to mislead from

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. XIII its employment of accents in a different sense from that Avhich they ha\Te, except incidentally, in European languages. But I doubt not these objections have been duly considered by the promoters of the system, and that they have folloAved the plan which seemed to them best fitted to procure uniformity in the spelling of Indian names, which is an end of so great import ance that I haAre deemed it right to folloAv the Govern ment system of spelling, but not as a very advanced or always strictly accurate disciple. I am afraid an accent here and there has got on the Avrong letter, and I have sometimes continued the use of double letters ; but, in truth, to carry out this system with perfect accuracy one would require not only to have the names before one written in an Indo-Aryan language, but also to be in the habit of dealing with them in such a language.

Suffice that I have sacrificed my OAvn comfort, if not also that of my readers, on the Indian Government's linguistic altar. As one of the first to do so in this country, I trust I may be excused if my steps have occasionally tripped. When publishing in the Magazine I used the Avord " Himaliya," but that Avas only in order to break the usual custom of pro nouncing it " Himmalaya," and now return to A\liat is the more strictly accurate form. One word more, and I have done. Like many other men, I haA'e Avritten hundreds — I may say thousands — of more or less insignificant articles in newspapers and periodicals ; but, like the vast majority of my fellow-

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. labourers in that department of literature, I have sought to keep back my name rather than to thrust it obtru sively before the public in connection with productions which, howeA-er good or bad of their kind, had no in dividuality or importance sufficient to Avarrant their being connected with any particular author. That is the usual feeling of public writers in this country ; but there is ahvays some one insensible to it. A few months ago one of those candid friends Avho are the gentian and rhubarb of life, remarked to me : " What a stupid article that is on the Cuttle-fish which you have in ! I Avonder you put your name to it." Noav the cuttle-fish is a denizen of the ocean Avith which I am well acquainted, from its toughness as an article of diet, it having been the habit of my Hong-Kong butler to give me a curry of it Avhenever he was displeased with me, adding, Avhen he saAv my frown, the dubious consolation : " Eh !

No likey \ I tinkee he makee you likey to-molloAv (to-morroAv) cully too muchee." But to write articles on the cuttle-fish was, I knew, out of my line ; and I was shocked at having my name pointed out to me, printed in full, at the bottom of such an article. At first I cherished the hope that this Avas the Avork of some practical humourist; but found, on inquiry, that this alter ego, the cuttle fish A. W., was a sad reality ; that he had published several articles of the same kind, and had as much title as myself to the name he bears. I know how vain it is

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. XV to hope that any pushing young Scotchman will con sent to preach behind a screen if he has any opportu nity of doing so in front of it ; therefore I address no remonstrance or request to the ichthyologist himself. But, Avould not some Scotch University — say Aberdeen or Glasgow — have the goodness to make a distinction between us by conferring upon him the degree of D.D., L.L.D., or whatever other high academical dis tinction his arduous researches into the character of the cuttle-fish may justify ? London, July 1875. ITINERARY. The character of the more important part of my journey will be rendered more intelligible by the following list of halting-places for the night, along with their heights : — Place. Province. Height in feet. Date. Simla Fagti . . . . Theog Muttiana . Narkanda .

Kotgarh Nirth British territory Keontal Theog Komarsen 7,084 about 7,000 about 7,000 about 7,000 nearly 9,000 6,700 about 3,000 1873. June 2 3 4 5 6 „ 7-11 12 Kotgarh Kunawar or Bussahir Rampur Gaura Serahan Taranda Poynda Naehar Oorni Rogi .... Pangay Rarang Jangi Lippe Sugnam Shaso Pu . Dtibling Khalb Namgea Fields . Shipki Shipki Fields . Namgea Fields . Camp on Lio Porgyul 5, Kunawar about 3,000 6,023 7,115 about 7,000 about 6,000 about 7,000 nearly 9,000 nearly 9,000 9,096 about 9,000 about 9,000 about 9,000 9,020 nearly 9,000 about 10,000 about 10,000 about 10,500 about 13,000 10,027 about 13,000 about 13,000 about 13,000 13 14 ,, 15, 16 ,, 17 ,, 18, 19 „ 20 ,, 21 „ 22 „ 23-27 „ 28 ,, 29 30 July 1 ,, 2,3 July 4 to Aug. 4 Aug. 5 6 » 7 „ 8,9 ■ „ 10 H 12 Chinese Tihet AA Kun d war Hangrang ITINERARY.

Place. Province. Height in feet. Date. Xako .... Chango Camp on To-tzo R. . Lari .... Poi . Dankar Kazeh Morang Kiotro Losar .... First Camp on Chandra R. Second do. Third do. Fourth do. Kokser Sisu .... Gandla Kaelang Guhmohr . Darcha First Camp on Shinkal P. Second do. Third do. Kharjak Thesur Camp below Suley Mune Padam Seni Gonpa Phe . First Camp on Pense P. Second do. Ringdom . Giilmatongo Parkatse Suru .... Sankii Hamlet opposite Dras Dras .... Mataan Baltal Sonamarg . Goond Kangan Ganderbahl Srinagar Avantipur . Bijbehara . Hangrang At Chinese Tibet Spiti At 11,975 10,215 about 11,000 about 11,600 about 12,000 12,774 about 12,800 about 13,000 about 13, 13,395 about 13,500 1873. Aug. 13,14 „ 15 „ 16 „ 17 18 ,, 19, 20 21 22 23 24 25 ,1 It 11 11 11 11 Lahaul about 12,500 about 12,000 about 11,500 10,261 9,938 10,314 about 10,300 about 10,600 10,844 about 12,000 about 15,000 about 15,500 13,670 about 13,000 about 12,000 about 12,500 11,873 about 12,000 about 12,500 about 13,000 about 13,000 about 12,500 about 12,000 about 12,000 10,624 about 10,000 about 10,500 10,144 about 10,500 about 9,500 about 8,700 about 7,700 about 7,000 about 6,500 5,235 about 5,400 about 5,500 26 „ 27 28 29 30 31 Sept. 1-3 4 „ 6,7 8 9 10 H 12 13 14 15 » 16,17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 „ 25 26 27 28 29 30 Oct. 1 2 ,i 3-12 13 14 ii ii ii ii n n n ii ii ii Zanskar n ii ii ii ii ii ii it Stiru n ii ii ii n Dras n ii Kashmir n ii ii n n ii ITINERARY.

XVII Place. Province. Height in feet. Date. Jjawan Achibal Vernag Rozlii On the Jhelam . Srinagar On the Jhelam . Wtilar Lake Baramula . Oorun Booah Uri . Chikote Hatti . Ghurru Tinali Mozafarabad Gurhi Hubli Mansera Abbotabad Sutanpiir Serai . Hurripiir . Torbela . Pihtir Swabi Shabashi Gurhi . Hoti Mardan Kashmir ii ii ii ii » ii it n n ii ti i. 5,896 about 5,900 about 6,000 about 6,500 about 5,400 5,235 5,200 5,187 ™ *-*. 3 jj / *_\ V S !_ 1873. Oct. 15 16 17 18 19 „ 20, 21 22 23 „ 24, 25 „ 26 27 28 29 „ 30 Oct. 31 to Nov. 1 Nov. 2 3 4 „ 5-11 12 13 14 15 „ 16, 17 18 19 ii ii ii Hazara n n 11 ii 2,470 about 4,500 about 4,200 4,166 about 3,500 about 3,000 about 2,500 about 2,600 about 2,000 15,000 about 12,000 n Yusufzai ii n n CONTENTS.

Chapter II. Bombay To Allahabad

Indian travel — Bombay — AVestern Ghauts — Parallelism between the Ghauts and Himalaya — Tapti valley— Satptira and Vindhya ranges — Narbada valley — Jabalpur — The Marble Rocks — Scene by moonlight — Allahabad, ....... 5

Chapter III. Himalayan Peaks And Sanitariums

Agra and Delhi — The Indian Mutiny — Darjiling — Mount Everest — Kanchinjanga — Sikkim — Nepal — Naini Tal — Almora — Ranikhet — Masiiri — Dharamsala — Dalhousie — Marri — The Hindu Kush — Simla, ........ 16

Chapter IV. Rurki, Hardwar, And The Terai

Saharunpur collections — Dr Jamieson — Major Lang — Losing one's head — Rurki Engineering College — Hardwar — The Great Mela — Jungle sires — The Terai — A Himalayan hunter — Mr Hayward — Fossils of the Sewalik — The Dehra Doon — Indian tea — Localities of the plantations, ....... CONTENTS.

Chapter V. First Views Of The Himalaya

Goitre — Mastiri — Climate — Interior routes — Ariew of snowy peaks — The Abode of the Gods — Road to Simla — Appearance of Simla — Lines on the Himalaya, ...... 10

Chapter VI. Simla Society

Simla misunderstood — Amusements — Morals — Overwork — Convenience of position — Indian society, . . ... 50

Chapter VII. Simla Celebrities

Lord Northbrook — The Bengal Famine — General policy — Umbra' Indica — Sir Richard Temple — Sir AVilliam Muir — Lord Napier of Magdala — Colonel Dillon — Mr C. U. Aitchison — Mr Chapman, &c. , . 60

Chapter VIII. Simla As

A SANITARIUM. Commencement of Simla — Lord Dalhousie — Population — Advantages and defects of the climate — A starting-point for the Himalaya — " No supplies" — Central Asian routes from Simla, 80

Chapter IX. My Himalayan Outfit

Tents— Lord Napier's tent— Furniture— Supplies on the way — Game —No eggs— .Baltistan apricots— Preserved provisions— Potables- Stimulants unnecessary — Servants — My attendants — Means of carriage, ...... 86

Chapter X. Simla To The Sutlej

The Great Hindusthan and Tibet Road— Fatal accidents— Feelings on going over a precipice— The dandi— Bumping— Divisions of the road— View from Narkanda— Kotgarh and its Mission— Colonel Moore — The gloomy Sutlej valley, CONTENTS. XIX 109 117 126 135 143 151

CHAPTER XL KOTGARH TO CHINI.

Tho Rajah of Bussahir — Death of a hillman— Scenery of the Sutlej Valley— Sentient nature of plants — Himalayan pines — The Deodar — Chini — View of the Raldang Kailas, ....

Chapter XII

A HARD ROAD TO TRAVEL. End of the cut road — The Morang Kailas — Rarang — Foam-cascades — Granite avalanches — Turning a corner — Jangi — A praying mill — Lippe — Author's illness — Poisoning in India,

Chapter XVI. Junction Of The Sutlej And Spiti Rivers

The Moravian Mission — The people of Pii— Start for Chinese Tibet— Dabling and Diibliug — Sang-po and Sang-pa— Mural precipices— Khalb— Extraordinary junction of the Lee and Spiti rivers— Geology — Himalayan valleys — Cataclysms — Names for rivers, b XX CONTENTS.

Chapter XVII. The Great Kung-ma Pass Into Chinese Tibet

The Oopsung Gorge— Namgea fields— Camp on the pass— The great mountain Lio Porgyul— Extraordinary sceno by moonlight— Chota Khan's wrath — Tower of the sun — An awful scene — Cross the Chinese frontier— Summit of the pass— The rolling hills of Tartary — Descent to Shipki, ...... 1C0

Chapter XVIII. Stopped

B\r TARTARS. Arrival at Shipki— An unexpected difficulty— Tartar young women — Supplies and carriage refused — Remonstrance useless — Reasons assigned for refusing to let us pass — Englishmen suspected — Chinese wiliness — A disagreeable character — The Tzong-pon of D'zabrung — My further plans — The country beyond Shipki — Firing into one's stomach — "Pull, pull," . . . . 168

Chapter XIX. Tibet And Its Seclusion

Frightful tortures — Sealing on horseback — Reasons assigned for excluding Europeans — More probable reasons — Tho gold of Tibet — Other minerals and gems — Geography of Tibet, 181

Chapter XX. The People Of Shipki

A Tartar beauty— Flirtation in Shipki— Dress and appearance — Position and products of Shipki— Departure — Instance of Tartar ferocity—" Still meat"— A pap for infants— Chinese aversion to milk — Marches to Shipki, ..... 189

Chapter XXI. Over Lio Porgyul

The upper valley route— A jhula or twig-bridge— Lord Elgin's death — Chota Khan's terror— An intrepid dame — Farewell to the Sutlej — Gyumur — The hereditary executiouer — Tashigong monastery Biidhism — Shoulder of the great mountain — Marches to Nako CONTENTS. XXI 205 215 224 237 247

Chapter XXII. Nako And The Nakowallah

A mountain pool — Pleasures of camp-life — A strange feeling — Inclement weather— Food— Tibetan appetites— Houses — A wonderful dog — A reincarnation — Part from Bruder Pagell — Chango — Spiti minstrels — Leave Kunawar— Its characteristics — Its paths,

Chapter XXVI. Upper Spiti

A novel route — "Very possible" — Kazeh — Ki monastery — Naked givls — Morang — Singular precipices — Architectural effects — Kiotro — Losar — Tent-life — Further route — Preparations for a difficult journey — Routes from Nako, ..... CONTENTS. 256 272 278 286 295

Chapter XXVII. The Valley Of Glaciers

The Kanzam Pass— The L Peaks— Enormous glaciers— Shigri or Glacier Valley— Storm and snow— A night scene — Crossing a glacier- Incredible performances of a ghiint — Spiti ponies — Fall of a mountain — Glacier flowers — Fording streams — A fall — Djeola — Tibetan dogs — Silver, ......

Chapter XXVIII. The Alps And Himalaya

Living glacier flowers — Subterranean glaciers — Alps and Himalaya contrasted — Savage grandeur of the Himalaya — Shattered peaks — The Alpine and Himalayan people, ....

Chapter XXIX. The Himalaya

Extreme length of Himalaya — "The Stony Girdle of the Earth" — " The Roof of the AATorld "—Meaning of "the Abode of Snow"— Latin, Greek, and Slav cognates — Abode of the Gods — German Himmel — Milton's Imaus — Place in Hindu mythology — Personified as Siva — Line of perpetual snow in Himalaya, Andes, and Alps — Dryness of atmosphere — Effect of solar rays — Temperature of day and night — Altitude and longevity, ....

Chapter XXX. The Moravians In Lahaul

Characteristics of Lahaul — An ancient language — Magnificent avalanches — The Moravian Mission — A howling wilderness — Lahaulese disorderliness — Routes from Kaelang to Kashmir — The Zanskar route — Flowery maidans— "A little difficult" — Alarmed servants — Sad fate of a policeman, .....