Persia as it is. Being sketches of modern Persian Life and Character

Front matter

BY THE SAME AUTHOR. IN THE LAND OF THE LION AND SUN. Being an account of fifteen years' residence in Persia, 1866-1881, by C. J. Wills, M.D., late one of the medical officers of H.M.'s Telegraph Department in Persia. Demy Svo. 14s. " Probably the most amusing book of travel that has been published in recent years." . . . From beginning to end the book is anecdotal ; there is scarcely a page without its story or incident, some of them rather extraordinary, but all entertaining in the highest degree. — The Times. " The volume is full of characteristic sketches and anecdotes.'' — Athenæum. " His narrative of his travels is graphic and easy, and some of his stories capital. Dr. Wills tells us exactly what he saw and endured, and actuality is the characteristic of every chapter of his book." — The World.

" There are some really good and characteristic anecdotes scattered here and there throughout these often instructive and never dull pages, and they have the merit of being told for the first time." — St. James's Gazette. " The vivid nature of his descriptions, together with a sympathetic style, which at once carries the reader along with him, will make his book read with much gratification by all who take it up." — Academij. " His descriptive skill is admirable, and his pictures of Persian manners and home-life, modes of travel, scenery, architecture, art and institutions are enlivened by numerous anecdotes, and expressed always in language delightfully fresh and true." — Harper's Magazine. " It describes the experiences of a man who has had the advantage of residing fifteen years in different parts of the Shah's dominions." — The Scotsman.

" Worth reading by anybody who wants to know about Persia, aud worth reading it certainly is." — Pall Mall Gazette. " He is evidently a man of intelligence and observation, and his remarks on native manners are generally discriminating and candid. However, the author did get below the surface of things, and without lecturing, preaching, or propounding chimeras or strange remedies, ho ( "• ) has incidentally told us much about the government of the Shah, the products ofthe country, and the amusements and life of the population." — Saturday Beview. " Even those who do not require to be instructed will find the book very pleasant reading." — The Globe. " It may be prophesied that this book will become a standard one for those about to visit Persia. He sojourned for fifteen years in the country, and studied the home-life of the people as only a physician can do in the closely-veiled East." — Spectator.

Preface

. The very cordial reception given to a previous work on Persia,* giving a systematic description of the country as seen by me, of my journeys to and through Persia, and of my long residence in that country, has induced me to produce various sketches of modern Persian life and character under the present title of ' Persia As It Is.' Living as I did as a doctor in large practice in the heart of Persia, I shall perhaps not be con sidered presumptuous in having an opinion on this particular subject. The present volume records many of the most in teresting and curious phases of Persian life. Most sojourners in the East rarely penetrate the veil ■which hides one-half of the population ; the fact of my being a hakim (or physician) gave me the opportunity of doing so. I may have been a Goosha-nisheen, or " dweller in a corner," but my eyes have been ever open to see, not only the nakedness of the land, but * ' In the Land of the Lion and Sun, or Modern Persia.'

PREFACE.

. X also the large measure of good, and the many pleasant memories that deserve to be recorded. I have resorted to the form of short stories in a few cases where, from the nature of the subject, narrative might be more interesting, or less dry, than a mere sketch. I trust that the reader will excuse the shortcomings of the account of details of life passed in a little-known country. I have endeavoured to speak of Persia as it is, and as I saw it. " Good wine needs no bush," but as the wine-seller always did have a bush, whatever the quality of his wine, so this book must have a preface. Persia is the land of procrastination, the principle of the Irani being " never do to-day what can be put off till to-morrow." Thus the doing of anything is always referred to "Furder inshallah " (Please God, to-morrow).

Reader, if you get through 'Persia As It Is,' and are displeased, pray defer the pouring forth of the vials till that indefinite time " Furder." As to the spelling and transliteration of Persian words used, it is not classical : it does not pretend to be ; but it will convey to the ordinary reader the local pronunciation of the colloquial. Thus moonshee is used for munshi, as that spelling gives the exact sound. I think that all that is required is, that the ordinary reader shall not pronounce the words too incorrectly, and that it is only when a work is philological that

PREFACE.

. XI accuracy in transliteration is of any real importance. With this end in view I have tried so to spell Persian words, that by following ordinary rules the general reader may not be very wide of the mark. To avoid continual explanation, I have added a glossary with a correct transliteration. I have to thank the proprietors of The World, The St. James's Gazette, The Globe, and Messrs. Chambers for permission to reproduce some of these sketches. C. J. Wills. Oriental Club, Hanoyeb Square, W. CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Introductory

PAGE A new Playground — How to get there — Baku — Persia — Its delights — Things worth seeing — Deserts — Teheran and its sights — Travelling : various modes and cheapness of — Intention of Author .. .. .. .. .. I

Chapter II. The Shah Of Persia

Escape from Assassins — Their cruel Punishment — Shah's appearance — Dress — Red-tailed horses — Royal carriages — Habits of life — Shampooing — Amusements of Shah — Dislike to bloodshed — The sticks, or bastinado — Royal meals — Court dignitaries — Corruption — The Harem — Visit of Shah to Europe — Practical jokes of Shah — Cast-off wives — Legitimate wives — Anys-u-dowlet

Chapter III. The Most Powerful Man In Persia

Tbe Zil-es-Sultan — His titles — His birth — Probable succession to throne — His palace — Courtiers — Litigants— Jews — Murderers — Executioners — Private apartments — Shampooing — Reading Poetry — Strange room — Fountains — Persian justice — A royal sportsman — Court intrigues — Temporary disgrace .. .. .. .. .. CONTENTS.

Chapter IV. Sir Ronald Thomson

H.M.'S MINISTER TO THE COURT OF PERSIA, IN TEHERAN. PAGE Le Boulevard des Ambassadeurs — Striking View — Demarvend — " The Mission " — Exterior — Interior — Our Minister in Persia — His career — Politics — Hospitality of Minister — His services.. .. .. .. .. .. .. 29

Slaves, how they arrive — Varieties of slaves — A whipping-boy — Kind treatment of slaves — Position — Eunuchs — Marriage of Eunuchs .. .. .. .. .. 74

Chapter XII

A PROFESSIONAL VISIT: MEDICINE IN PERSIA. Ride to the House — Saddle-cover — Heart's-delight — The bauz — The garden — The room — The ladies — Their costume — Refreshments — Medicine in Persia — Surgery — Ancient remedies .. .. .. .. .. .. .. 80

Chapter XIII. Dervishes

Dress and appearance — Paraphernalia — Strange weapons — Cry of tbe dervish — New Year's custom of dervishes— " Hakk ! " — Penances — Character — " Story of a Dervish" 92

Chapter XIV. Persian Art And Artists

Pupilage — Subjects — Bastinado — Commissions — Prices — Pen-cases — Enamelling — Improving on Nature — The _ _ Schamayul — Artist at home — Fire-reviver .. .. CONTENTS.

Chapter XV. In

A BARBER'S SHOP IN PERSIA. PAGE Meshedi Hassan — Easy shaving — Dentistry — Persian exaggeration — Dyeing the beard — The barber's shop — Implements — Decorating flowers — Chintz caps : Anecdote — Snaving the head — The barber-surgeon .. .. .. 127

Drunkenness — Varieties of wines — Teheran — Kerrnan — Red Ispahan — Kishmish — Hamadan — Shiraz.. .. .. 153

Chapter XIX

A PERSIAN DINNER-PARTY. The Persians cltez eux — The fate of the guests — An invitation — My procession — Scene on arrival — " Pipes ! " — The revel — Music — Singing — A Persian surgeon — The mouse — The Luti — Gambling — Home .. .. .. .. 159

Chapter XX. Have We

A POLICY IN PERSIA? M. Chirol — Russia bribes and decorates — Our waning influence — Persia as a recruiting-ground — The mud wall — Persian soldiers — Infantry — Cavalry — Persia may be bought .. CONTENTS. XVII 217

Fasting — Institution ofthe Great Fast — Duration — Strictness of the Fast — Fast of the Ramazan — Water and opium — Zalabieh — Excitement at Sunset — The unco' guid — Charity 195

Chapter XXIV. The Annual Persian Religious Drama

— THE TAZIYAH. The month of Mohurrim — The theatre — The stage — The audience — The homily — The actors' procession — The martyrs — The characters — " Woe for Houssein ! " — The drama — Comic interlude — Chorus of youths — Ali Akbar —The Katl 205

Number of English — The Telegraphjee — His popularity — His credit — Mode of Use — Talking on the wire .. .. 301