Recollections of Malta, Sicily and the Continent

Preface

. To attempt an elaborate account of manners, customs, and antiquities, is not the purpose of this little volume; many able and copious works have appeared in which those matters have been fully discussed. All that the author presumes to do, is to record a few impressions of a tour made in pursuit of health and pleasure, thinking it not unlikely that many who have imagined children to be incompatible with locomotion, on seeing with what ease and comfort a rather numerous family has travelled through no inconsiderable part of the south of Europe, may be induced to undertake a similar expedition, the bare idea of which they have not hitherto had the courage to entertain. si EEEATA. Page 18, line 19, for storey, read story. Page 56, line 12, sur donkies, read donkeys. Page 71, line 20, for donky, read donkey.

Page 159, line 2, for course, read coarse. Page 160, note, for colobme, read colombe. Page 162, line 3, for thresh, react! thrash. Page 188, line 24, for manners, read manner. Page 205, line 26, for all tre read alle tre. Page 213, line 17, for verameute, read veramente. Page 152, line 29, for copyers, read copiers. RECOLLECTIONS OF MALTA, SICILY, &c.

Introduction

— DEPARTURE FROM ENGLAND — GIBRALTAR — COLLISION AT SEA — ARRIVAL AT MALTA — ORIENTAL STEAMER. The best introduction to the following pages will be to present the reader to a family party, con sisting of a gentleman, his wife, and four young children. The lady's health is delicate, to im prove which a more genial climate is recommended during the winter months. But whither are they to resort ? Various are the pet places which medical men offer to the notice of the patient who requires a warmer climate. One thing may perhaps be considered as an axiom, and that is, that little benefit can be expected in latitudes higher than forty or forty-two degrees. Several A ADVICE. 2 circumstara.es influenced us in going farther southward, and in giving the preference to Malta; so, after settling all necessary preliminaries, we engaged berths in the P. and 0.

Company's steamer Oriental, to sail from Southampton on the first day of the new year. Manifold are the chapters of advice which a family leaving their home for any period receive from the kindness of their friends, to follow which would baffle the ingenuity of an Œdipus. We were told by some to provide ourselves with a wardrobe sufficient to supply our wants till our return to England. Others, on the contrary, enjoined us not to take a rag more than was absolutely necessary for a short time, as we could purchase apparel anywhere, and we should find a quantity of luggage the greatest bore in the world. One party advised us to take two English servants at least, to administer to our comforts; while others were equally vehement in their protestations against this' course, observing that an English domestic would be a most effectual barrier to a moment's enjoyment on the Continent, as they were always discontented and getting into all kinds of scrapes, relating, at the same time, an anecdote of a lady's maid, about to cross the desert, resisting all persuasions of her mistress to mount a camel, and being actually obliged to be slung in a box under the animal's stomach.

DEPARTURE. The perplexity naturally arising from these suggestions prompted us to effect a kind of com promise with our numerous advisers; so, with one female servant only, we set out on our travels. Having four children with us, her services could not be dispensed with. The weather, which, during November and December, had been more than usually boisterous, had now subsided into a calm, and we were as sured by the authorities on that subject that we should have " a splendid passage" — a term which always appears to me as more applicable to crossing a river. These prognostications I must, in justice to those who uttered them, add, were, as far as the weather was concerned, fully borne out; other circumstances, which did not enter their calculations, took away considerably from the " splendour" of our voyage.

The concluding night of 1841 was one of con siderable bustle at the " King's Arms" at South ampton, that hotel being crowded with our fellow passengers of the Oriental. The following morn ing we breakfasted on board, and at about half past nine a.m. were in motion, and with steam and tide went rapidly down the river. And now, with the characteristic feeling of all true English men thrown together for the first time, we com menced a sort of half-suspicious scrutiny of each other's faces; to venture further without an intro- SEA-SICKNESS. 4 duction would, before we were well out at sea, have been a most wicked impropriety, for which no subsequent reserve could atone. While engaged in this species of furtive observation, to my great delight I was recognised by an " Old Westminster." We live, undoubtedly, in the age of locomotion; and no place is too remote to render recognitions of this kind impro bable.

To discover a friend peering into the pyramid of Cheops, or discussing pigeon-pie and champagne on the top of the porcelain tower at Nankin, will soon cease to excite surprise. As long as the river lasted all was well, but the Needles were soon in sight, and we shortly became sensible of some of the attendants upon a sea voyage. The first intimation I had of anything unpleasant was on my meeting one of the stew ardesses muttering a kind of half-suppressed in dignation against an unfortunate lady who had been so unreasonable as to require her services thus early in the proceedings. We were all, however, ready ere long to sympathize with her, and felt rather inclined to follow the course adopted by a certain landsman, who, finding the motion of a vessel rather embarrassing, called out to the captain to " pull up," as he preferred to get out and walk.

However, the first three days over, returning convalescence enabled us to enjoy each other's society. Our ship contained her CAPE FINISTERRE — GIBRALTAR. usual complement, both as to quantity and quality — military men joining their regiments, ladies joining their husbands, merchants in search of rupees, and invalids in search of health. We found ourselves most fortunate in our fellow passengers, with some few of whom we became almost intimate, and from whom we parted not without hopes of circumstances permitting us to renew their acquaintance — hopes which, in more than one instance, have been since realized. On passing Cape Finisterre we became quite sensible of a warmer and more genial temperature. The stove-fire, hitherto a great comfort in the saloon, was now dispensed with, and we were able to enjoy the only really enjoyable part of a vessel— the deck.

We reached Gibraltar early on the 7th, and had ample time allowed us to visit the " lions" of that very peculiar place. A stranger, when con templating an irregularly built town at the foot of a rugged and precipitous rock, has little idea of what that rock conceals from his view; and a very picturesque and true sketch may be made of the place, and sent as a present to the enemy, without giving him the smallest assistance, or in curring any danger to the garrison. Few towns present so great a variety of costumes as Gibraltar, where an artist may find abundant studies for his portfolio. The Spaniard GIBRALTAR. and the Moor, with various Oriental dresses, form groups well worthy of his pencil. The town itself — I speak now of the lower part — is chiefly occupied by stores and shops, of which Jews seem to be the predominant proprietors, and certainly has not an inviting appearance.

Narrow streets, pregnant with filth and noisome effluvia (for some unaccountable reason the usual drawback of towns in warm climates) hold out little temptation to induce the visitor to prolong his stay. The upper town is comparatively free from these nuisances. It is here that the troops are quartered, and is, I believe, a healthy situation. I was surprised to find, even in these latitudes, the great change of temperature consequent upon a change of wind. The atmosphere, which had been for the last few days soft and balmy, was now so entirely altered by the wind from the north-west, that ice had been discovered in the morning on the summit of the rock. Having thoroughly explored this extraordinary place, we repaired on board our vessel at about four o'clock, the time fixed for continuing* our course to Malta; the captain wisely determining not to delay our departure to a later hour, in order to avail himself of the day-light in clearing the craft, which were rather numerous in the vicinity of Gibraltar.

Dinner was served at five o'clock, and we were COLLISION. all in high spirits, comparing notes with regard to what we had seen and heard, when our merriment received a shock which made the faces of the most experienced sailors turn pale with ap prehension. A crash, which lasted full twenty seconds, was heard and felt by all on board. Our ship, which had been flying before the force of steam and current, now lay suddenly motionless as a log. I shall not attempt to describe the con fusion, the necessary consequence of this alarm, of the cause of which we were soon made aware. We had come into collision with a large ship — a fact of itself sufficient to convince us all of our situation being one of imminent danger. Night had just set in; which circumstance did not con tribute to allay our fears.

With regard to our selves, being utterly inexperienced in nautical matters, we sat patiently awaiting the result of the many inquiries which were made of the captain as to the real state of things; and though some time elapsed before the extent of the damage we had suffered could be ascertained, yet we were soon assured of the absence of all immediate danger, and, after a delay of between four and five hours, occupied chiefly in repairing one of the paddles, and in examining into the extent of our injury, we were able to retrace our steps to Gibraltar, from which we were distant about twenty miles, and we re-entered the harbour at half-past three a.m. RETURN TO GIBRALTAR. The return of day-light soon gave us some idea of the effect of our collision. One boat had been stove in, another carried away, and one of the quarter galleries completely swept off.

The axle beam of the engine was also sprung. This large and massive piece of timber was the first part of our vessel which received the shock ; and we were told by several of the naval men who came on board at Gibraltar, that to this providential circumstance we might attribute our safety, as, had we been struck a very few feet on either side of this spot, nothing could have saved us — we must have all sunk in a few minutes. This opinion has been pretty well borne out in the fate of H. M. steamer Lizard, which came into collision with a French steamer some months ago. The officers and crew in this case had only just time to scramble on board the Frenchman before she went down. Had such been our situation, the loss of life would have been great, our numbers and inexperience adding most materially to the danger of our position.

With regard to the vessel with which we came in contact, we were altogether ignorant of her fate, and not without serious apprehensions of her total loss. Immediately subsequent to the colli sion, she fired a gun and burned a blue light, as signals of distress, and disappeared in the darkness. As soon as our captain had discovered our DAMAGE. 9 own security from immediate peril, he despatched his boats in quest of her, with the intention of rendering any assistance he might be able to afford. The boats returned after an unsuccessful search, and nothing was heard of her till the afternoon of the following day, when a steamer was despatched from Gibraltar to inquire after her fate, which brought us the welcome intelli gence that our fears for her safety had been groundless, and, though much damaged, no lives had been lost.

She turned out to be a large French frigate, the Ambuscade. The amount of injury on the part of both vessels was as follows : — Okie_.t_.__. Ambuscade. Main-top-mast carried away. One boat carried away. Bowsprit sprung. Two anchors carried away. Jib-boom carried away. One boat stove in. Quarter-gallery carried away. Paddle-box smashed. Bows stove in. Axle-beam sprung. Every assistance was rendered us at Gibraltar, and no effort spared to prevent the delay of the Indian mail. Our deck was a scene of unusual activity, the carpenters of the fleet being busily engaged in patching us up to a sufficient degree of security for the remainder of our voyage, which we resumed after a delay of two days. Such were the circumstances attending this accident, of which description may convey some idea, as far as facts are concerned ; but those only REMARKS. who were present can understand the impression made upon our feelings, and the recollection of it will ever revive our gratitude to Providence for so merciful a preservation.

With regard to the party to whom the blame was attached for the occurrence of this accident, each, of course, had their own story to tell, and their own excuses to make ; one thing, I believe, is quite certain, and that is, that the look-out on both sides must have been very remiss, as, al though night had set in, the stars were bright, and the sky clear, and neither ship, from its size, an object difficult to perceive. The too frequent occurrence of similar accidents will doubtless be the means of certain regulations being adopted on board large steamers. The second officer should always be a man of great experience, to be able to take the place of his captain occasionally ; for, as to the possibility of the captain being perpetually on deck, the idea is quite out of the question. Nature will sometimes be pe remptory in demanding repose ; and twelve nights without sleep, which would be always necessary in the voyage to Malta, is utterly impracticable for the strongest constitution.

Most disasters occur during the absence of the captain, who, however disposed to do his duty, has given way to pure exhaustion. The unfortunate fate of the Memnon is an illustration of this fact, where the ARRIVAL AT MALTA. 11 arrival of the captain on deck was too late for the safety of his ship. It was rather remarkable, that just at this period no less than three of the P. and 0. Company's vessels had met with some disaster. The Great Liverpool was laid up at Gibraltar, her engines having received some injury; the Lotus, which was on the Nile, was disabled ; and the Oriental had met with the accident which I have just described. The remainder of our voyage was accomplished without any further casualty, and we anchored in Malta harbour on the night of the 13th, about twelve o'clock. Valetta was reported to be very full — the visit of the Queen-Dowager having brought it into notice; and had we not, through the kindness of a friend, had a house secured for us, we should have found considerable difficulty in procuring lodgings, to say nothing of being at the mercy of the Maltese, who, like the rest of the world, are not backward in making exorbi tant demands.

The noise and clamour of the Maltese boat men, squabbling in an unknown jargon for the honour of landing the passengers, formed a scene of most perfect confusion. We had been cautioned most earnestly previous to quit ting the vessel, against certain habits of these individuals, who were said to manifest a great LANDING. difficulty in distinguishing between the meum and tuum. In fact, we were told that, unless we kept a sharp look out, our things would be carried off before our faces. This advice, though doubtless kindly meant, did not, as the result will show, render our debarkation the more agreeable. We had among our various articles of baggage, a carpet-bag, which, from having been overcharged (a fact generally considered an impossibility), would no longer submit to the confinement of a lock, and its contents were in consequence peeping out in a manner most irresistible to the light-fingered gentry's whose propensities we had been made aware.

Acting upon the admonition I had received, I kept a most watchful eye upon this unprotected part of our property. All was well till we approached the shore, where a considerable number of idlers were awaiting our landing. Our whole party but myself had just quitted the boat, when in rushed a wild-looking half-naked individual, fully bent, as I thought, upon the appropriation of my unfortunate bag. Now then, said I, is the moment for action; upon which I seized the intruder, who, thrown off his equilibrium, tumbled overboard, dragging me most unceremoniously after him. However, a regular ducking was the worst consequence which ensued ; and I really am disposed to confess that I was deservedly punished for my suspicions, as, from the know- ADVENTURE. ledge I afterwards had of these people, I believe the only motive the fellow had in seizing my baggage was to secure to himself a fee for carrying it to its destination.

I was rather amused at being asked by a policeman, after scrambling ashore, whether I did not intend " having satisfaction on the Smitchef I thought it most prudent to decline any pro ceedings of this description, it being rather un certain, all things considered, to which party the duty of " satisfying" belonged. This was my first taste of the Mediterranean, which may not be thought to have created the most favourable impression; but a change of clothes and the warm sun soon obliterated all disagreeable re collections. Before taking leave of the Oriental I cannot refrain from bearing testimony to the admirable accommodation she affords. Everything is done in a liberal way — none of the meanness and grudging which, I am sorry to say, we experienced elsewhere, which I shall notice hereafter.

Every disposition to oblige is invariably shown; and although there are certain rules laid down with regard to the hours of meals, &c, yet, upon the slightest grounds, the reins are loosened, and every indulgence afforded. The attendance upon the passengers, considering their numbers, is quite wonderful; and I am sure that the situa- THE ORIENTAL. tions of steward and stewardess can be no sinecures. In case of illness, we had an able medical man at hand, to whose services we had recourse for one of the children, who became seriously unwell, in consequence of a severe cold he had taken during the voyage. There is one thing, however, I will caution any person against who means to embark on board this vessel. In the selection of a cabin, avoid most sedulously one that contains, what is represented as being a great luxury, yclept a swing-berth.

These con trivances, not having been found to answer well in a swinging state, are now fixed, and the un lucky individual who anticipates everything de lightful from having secured one, experiences the sensation of reclining in a tin pipe, and one, too, not of the most ample dimensions. Its diameter is so contracted, that a person even of no unusual growth once fairly in (a matter of no small difficulty of achievement), will find his extrication utterly hopeless if unaided by foreign assistance. However, perhaps ere this the evil has been re presented and removed; and I am sure that any person experienced in steamers will readily allow, that as far as a sea-voyage can be rendered agreeable, the Oriental leaves nothing undone to effect so desirable an object.

Chapter II. Streets Of Valetta

— CALESSE — MALTESE HOUSES — SERVANTS — HARBOURS AND FORTIFICATIONS — AUBERGES — GOVERNOR'S PALACE — INFLUENCE OF PRIESTS — PROTESTANT CHURCH — POVERTY OF MALTESE — CHOLERA. Valetta was evidently no favourite with Lord Byron, at least if we may judge from one of his valedictory effusions on quitting it; and he who lands from the great harbour becomes aware of one of the nuisances to which his Lordship bids adieu with no small satisfaction. " The cursed streets of stairs" soon call forth his energies, and many a dormant muscle is brought into play sorely against his inclination. With regard to myself, our house being situated in the most exalted part of the town, I had the full benefit of the longest staircase, and upwards of three hun dred steps were climbed ere I reached the level of our sitting-room.

The rest of our party were de spatched by a circuitous route in aCalesse,a luxury CALESSE. peculiar to the place, but one which, putting the honour of riding out of the question, I would much prefer declining. How these people still persevere in manufacturing those clumsy uncomfortable machines is, to say the least, most surprising ; there is positively nothing to recommend them, and ingenious must he be who discovers one redeeming quality. The appearance and motion of the contrivance rival each other in absurdity. Take a post-chaise, amputate the front wheels, and substitute shafts for a pole, and hehold your Calesse. The driver runs by the side of his horse, and when tired jumps upon the shaft; a proceeding in England frequently visited by a broken limb or even loss of life; but these individuals seem exempt from such casualties.

Notwithstanding my condemnation of these vehicles, I must at the same time confess that occasionally a fine young fellow, with his red cap and crimson sash, springing gracefully by his horse's side, forms a picturesque effect, by no means to be despised, and may be contemplated from the pavement with great satisfaction, all I beg to be excused is the occupying a seat in the machine. There are occasionally certain traces of the ridiculous attending a ride in these car riages. A lady, for instance, goes to a party, rejoicing in luxuriant ringlets; these appendages are kept in such a perpetual saltatory motion, MALTESE HOUSES. that, unless very well got up, they will inevitably be annihilated before the conclusion of her drive. Mules were, I believe, formerly used to draw these carriages, but horses are now pretty gene rally introduced, some of which are very pretty creatures, resembling the Arab in breed, and in many cases of no mean pedigree.

The first glance at the arrangement of a Maltese house shows at once the object to which the attention of the architect has been chiefly di rected. Excess of heat is the enemy he has to contend with ; and any person, just fresh from the comforts of an English residence, is rather astonished at finding himself ascending a staircase, open on one side to the wind and weather. Even at Malta this plan is rather too airy for the winter months ; cold stormy days are to be ex perienced even there, and render fires absolutely necessary — a luxury of which these people have a most religious dread. The fire-places that exist have been chiefly made by the English, and con sequently, the difficulty of inserting flues in buildings which were never intended to possess them is sometimes very great. Happy he whose chimney does not smoke.

There never was a town where the study of cowls could be prosecuted with greater advantage. Every variety of chimney-top is to be seen, some apparently of so complicated a B WATER-TANKS. nature, that the wonder is how the smoke can ever get out of them. The only fire the Maltese indulge in is a brazier, an affair quite insupportable to those who are unaccustomed to it, The effluvia from the embers renders respiration most irksome, and is little less pernicious than common charcoal. The fuel generally employed is the ash swept out of the baker's oven, which will remain ignited for ten or twelve hours. In selecting a residence, a fire place should be a sine qua non; its comfort is in dispensable from December to the end of February; if not in the morning, at all events after five o'clock. The arrangement of the houses of the Maltese differs little from that which is adopted in the south of Italy.

The offices are on the ground floor, then come the " mezzonini," "a very low storey, the rooms scarcely exceeding nine feet in height, and above these commences the better portion of the building. The sitting-rooms are generally spacious and very lofty, and frequently form the last or upper storey. The roofs are in variably flat, thus catching the rain-water, which descends in pipes to the reservoirs which occupy the greater part of the cellars. The water from these tanks is wonderfully pure and good, and on this the Maltese places his chief reliance for a sufficient supply for his comfort, there being only SERVANTS. one spring in the whole island, and that of a strength wholly inadequate to the wants of the inhabitants, to whom an unusually dry season is a serious evil. A very few years ago a scarcity was felt, and the fleet was sent to Sicily to take in their water.

Two very extensive reservoirs have been built, very much after the plan of the ancient piscinae which still exist near Naples. These are situated at the head of the great harbour, and are so placed as to preserve a great portion of the rain-water from the Corodino Hill, which is conducted into them by conduits. I do not remember their capacity, but they are said to be of such magnitude as to render a scarcity of that element very unlikely. Our first few days were fully occupied in settling ourselves in our new abode — a process, where a family is concerned, that requires some little time to achieve, and is not hastened when new habits are, to a certain extent, to be adopted. Servants were to be hired, and we soon found ourselves possessed of a cook, attended, as is invariably the case, by a kind of aide-de-camp, in the shape of a boy in the lightest possible attire.

This individual stands in the situation of servant to the cook, who, with the exception of paying his wages, acts as his master. All that is dirty and laborious falls to the lot of this unfortunate boy, while the cook reserves to himself the scientific ADVENTURE. portion of the business. The pride of some of these creatures is somewhat ludicrous. Nothing would induce them to compromise their dignity so far as to carry a basket; and they seldom go to market unattended by a boy in semi clothing. Our residence at Malta was not commenced under the most favourable circumstances. One of our children, who had been unwell during the voyage, became seriously worse; and late on the second night subsequent to our landing at Valetta, symptoms of so alarming a nature were visible, as to call for immediate medical advice.

Imagine my horror, when hastening to call up a physician, at finding ourselves locked up in our house. The cook, who had gone home, had put the key in his pocket, and left us prisoners, sur rounded by neighbours with whose language we were utterly unacquainted. Our confinement, fortunately, did not last long; and we found assistance from a quarter wholly unexpected. A jolly sailor, who had just arrived at that point of intoxication which induced him to vow eternal friendship to everything English, and everlasting condemnation to everything Mal tese, came to our rescue. He became the bearer of a note to our medical friend, with whom he returned, and assisted in forcing an entry. He proved also of great service in expelling a small FORTIFICATIONS. mob of Maltese, who had entered simultaneously, assuring me at the same time that he would fight any twenty of them at once !

It was with great difficulty that I could persuade this hearty son of Neptune to accept of any gratuity for such really important services. Our little child continued alarmingly ill for some days; but, thanks to the skill of our friend Dr. Sankey, was ultimately restored to health. Arriving, as we did, at night, we were unable to form any idea of the fortifications, of which we had heard so much. We therefore took an early opportunity which a fine sunny day afforded of enjoying the luxury of a boat, which is the best, and indeed the only means of lionizing the various points towards the sea. It requires no military eye to discover the hopelessness of any attempt to wrest from us this all-important position. As to the possibility of a ship living through the succession of batteries she would have to encounter, the idea could never be entertained; and the works on the land side of the town, if properly manned, are deemed impregnable.

The extent of the works is not more remarkable than the number and weight of the cannon which are mounted. A few words will suffice to give some idea of the reception which an enemy would meet with. Fort St. Angelo alone has four tiers of guns, HARBOURS. raking the entrance of the great harbour; and, to give all the other forts, batteries, and parapets their proper complement of artillery, upwards of a thousand guns would be required, while mortars, opening their mouths of six feet diameter, are cut out of the solid rock on those spots likely to be chosen for debarkation. On the land side there are no fewer than five lines of works, and the whole place is mined and countermined to an incredible extent. To fill every post properly, thirty thou sand troops would not be too large a force. Nothing can be more perfect than the great harbour.