Life in the Soudan: adventures amongst the tribes, and travels in Egypt, in 1881 and 1882 ... Illustrated

Front matter

FROM A NEGATIVE BY LOMBAROl, PAUL MALL. LIFE IN THE SOUDAN: ADVENTURES AMONGST THE TRIBES, AND TRAVELS IN EGYPT, IN 1881 AND 1882. BY Dr. JOSIAH WILLIAMS, F.R.G.S. (Surgeon-Major, Imperial Ottoman Army, 1S7G-1S77). ILLUSTRATED. LONDON : REMINGTON & CO., PUBLISHERS, HENRIETTA STREET, COVENT GARDEN. 1884. [AU Rights Reserved.} ILLUSTRATIONS. The Author ... ... ... ... ... Frontispiece. Souakin ... ... 97 Hadendowah Arab Camel-men ... ... ... ... 128 Kassala Mountain ... 100 The Author Attending to Arab Ailments . . ... 248 Mountain Pass near Sanhit 304 The Causeway at Massawah CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Page

Leave England for Paris — Drugs and Clothing Required — A " Sleeby " German — Turin ... ... ... ... ... ... ... 5 — 12

Chapter II

Milan — The Cathedral — Galleria Vittorio Emmanuele — Piazza d'Armi — Palazzo de Brera — Lake of Como — Bologna — Its Ancient History — Leaning Towers — The Certosa — Teatro Communale — Brindisi ... 13 — 23

Chapter III

P. and 0. Steamer Tanjore — Arrival of the Mail and Passengers — Ancient Brindisi — Brindisi to Alexandria — Alexandria Past and Present— Its Trade 24—37

Chapter IV

The Fertilizing Rivers of Egypt — Leave Alexandria — Incidents en route — Shepheard's Hotel — Ancient and Modern Cairo — The Donkey-boys — Arab Patients— Dancing Dervishes — The House where Joseph, Mary, and the Infant Saviour Lived in Old Cairo — The Boulac Museum — The Petrified Forest — Mokattam Hills — Tombs of the Caliphs and Citadel — Cairo by Sunset 38 — 60

Chapter VIII

A rrival at Souakin — The Soudan — Bedouin Arab Prisoners in the Square, Not "on the Square" — Ivory — Engage Camels — Sheik Moussa — Souakin Slaves — Tragic End of a Doctor — Hadendowah Arabs — An Ill-fated Missionary Enterprise ... ... ... ... 98 — 110

Chapter IX

The Start Across the Desert — My Camel Serves me a Scurvy Trick — The Camel, its Habits and Training 111—118

Chapter X

Our First Camp — Torrents of Rain— Jules Bardet — Camel-drivers Behave Badly — Suleiman in Trouble — Camel-drivers get Upset— The Desert — Two of Us Lose our Way — Jules Suffers from Dysentery — Sand-storm — A Pilgrim Dies on the Road ; Another in the Camp — Jules' Illness — Camp Split Up — Lose Our Way — Encamp Several Days in the Desert — Arab Huts — The Mirage — A Lion ... 119 — 143

Chapter XI

Arrive at Kassala — Description of Kassala — We buy Camels and Horses — The Mudir gives a Dinner — Jules' Death and Burial — Hyænas — Arab Patients — Mahoom's History — Demetrius Mosconas on Slavery — Menagerie at Kassala 144 — 153

Chapter XII

Camels from the Atbara— The Mudir — Gordon Pasha's Character in the Soudan — Fertility of the Sondan ... ... ... ... 154 — 139

Chapter XIII

Leave Kassala — Character of the Country — Meet Beni-Amir Arabs on the River-bed— The Baobob Tree 160—164

Chapter XIV

Encamp at Heikota — Sheik Ahmed — Herr Schumann and His Zareeba — We Make a Zareeba — The Mahdi — Excitement in the Village — Horrible Tragedy — Sheik Ahmed Dines with ns — The Magic Lantern — Lions Visit Us 165—177

Chapter XV

Patients at Heikota — Leave Heikota — Game in the Base Country — See our First Lion — A Lion Interviews the Author — T^tel, Nellut, and other Game Killed on the March 178 — CONTENTS.

Chapter XVI. Pag

E We Arrive at the Base or Kunama Country — The Village of Sarcella — Murder of Mr. Powell and Party — My Camel and I Unceremoniously Part Company — The First Base We See — Encamp at Koolookoo — Our First Interview with Base — They make " Aman " with Us — Their Appearance — Description of Koolookoo and the Base People — Their Habits and Customs 184—200

Chapter XVII

We leave Koolookoo, Accompanied by a Number of the Base — The Magic Lantern — See Buffalo and Giraffe for the First Time — Two Buffalos Killed — A Base Feast — Curious Base Dance — They Dry their Meat on Lines in the Sun — A Wounded Buffalo— Hoodoo, Chief Sheik of the Base, Visits Us — A Column of Sand — A Leper — The Base Squabble over the Meat — We Arrive at Abyssinia ... ... 201 — 214

Chapter XVIII

The Dembelas Attack Us, Mahomet Wounded, Narrow Escape of two of our Parly — Activity in Camp, We Make a Zareeba and Fire the Country — Hold a Council of War — Our Silent and Dangerous Ride — Hoodoo's Sagacity — Arrival in Camp of Mahomet, Wounded — We Retreat — Mahomet's Death and Burial ... ... ... ... 215 — 229

Chapter XIX

Messrs. James and Phillipps Start on a Visit to Rasalulu — Curious Way of Shaving Children's Heads — A Disgusting Base — The Camel-drivers become Mutinous — Intended Attack by Base — We Fire the Country and Make a Zareeba — Encamp at Woamma — Trouble Again with Camel-men — Lions Disturb Us — Arrival at Heikota — A Talo of Blood and Slavery 230—243

Chapter XX

Patients Arrive from all Parts — Rough Journeys — Arrive at the Hamran Settite — Mahomet Sali Deceives us — Crocodiles, Turtle, and Fish — We Move on to Boorkattan, in Abyssinia — Next Day we Move off as Abyssinians Approach — We Catch Enormous Quantities of Fish with the Net — Narrow Escape from a Wounded Buffalo — The Coorbatch Administered — Scorpions and Snakes — Hamrans Visit Us — Hamran mode of Hunting and Snaring — Hamran and Base — The Hamrans Threaten to Fire on Us— Again Return to the Hamran Settite— Encamp at Omhagger 244 — 263

Chapter XXI

A Boa-constrictor Visits Us — The Burton Boat — Moussa's Behaviour Entails a Thrashing and His Discharge — Great Heat — A Fine Hippopotamus Killed — Hamran Feast — The White Ants— Another CONTENTS. PAGE Hippopotamus Killed— Mahomet Sali Brings Supplies— Native Mnsic in the Night— Delicate Hints Conveyed to the Performer— A Remarkably Fine Nellut Shot — Arab and Egyptian Taxation — Baboons— A Hamran Story— Ali Stung by a Scorpion— On the March Once More — Rough Journeys ... 261 — 2/8

Chapter XXII

Encamp at Lakatakoora Without the Caravan— Description of Village — Base Ladies Visit Me ere I Get Out of Bed— They Receive Presents and are very Amusing — Enormous Numbers of Doves and Sand-grouse — Aboosalal to Sogoda — Boa-constrictor Killed — An Unpleasant Journey, We all Get Separated — Arrive at Heikota Again 279— 2S4

Chapter XXIII

An Abyssinian Improvisatore and His Little Slave — Prepare for a March to Massawa — A Strange Base Breakfast — Patients — Arrive at Toodloak — Beni- Amirs Encamped on the Gash — Lions and Leopards are Shot — Our Monkeys in Camp — Baboon Mode of Attacking Leopards — Crafty Baboons — Lions Abound — Hyæna Method of Attacking a Lion — Hyæna Interviews Mr. Colvin — Arrival at Amadeb — Departure from Amadeb — Bareas Attempt an Attack on the Caravan — Beni- Amirs Watering their Flocks and Herds— We Meet with a young Elephant — Leopard and Hyæna Shot at Khor- Baraker 285—297

Chapter XXIV

A Lion Near the Camp — The Monks of Chardamba — We Meet Ali Dheen Pasha, Governor- General of the Soudan — Arrival at Keren, or Sanhit — The Priests at Keren — Account of Keren — Merissa — Dra, a Domestic Slave, Made Free — Descent from Sanhit to the Anseba Valley — The Birds There — Along the River-bed of the Labak — A Big March — Massawa — Farewell to Camels — Massawa to Souakin — Take in Cargo — Farewell to the Soudan — Arrival at Suez ... 298 — 314

Chapter XXV

Suez to Cairo — Alexandria — On Board the Monijcdia — Passengers on Board — Hibernian Humour — Venice — The Piazza of St. Mark — Tho Campanile — The Piazetta — The Zecca, or Mint — The Palace of the Doges — St. Mark's — The Arsenal 315 33Q

Chapter XXVI

We Hear of the Murder of Lord Frederick Cavendish and Mr. Burke A Grand Serenade on the Grand Canal — My Journey from Venice to England 331—338 PEEFACE. The Soudan, two years ago, was a name unknown to the million, and I will venture to say that at that time not one in fifty knew anything about it. Only those who could afford to obtain Sir Samuel Baker's interesting and instructive work, " The Nile Sources of Abyssinia," would be acquainted with the locality and other particulars. The literature extant on Egypt proper would pro bably amount to tons, but that on the Soudan would occupy a very small space indeed on the library shelf, for the simple reason that so very few have travelled through it. B

Preface

. In November, 1881, I left England to accompany six gentlemen on an exploring expedition in the Soudan, and, in view of passing events in Egypt and that locality, I indulged in the hope that an account of my journey will not be unacceptable to the public. I held the post of medical officer to the expedition, partly on account of my experience in the Turkish war, where I was continually brought face to face with dysentery, ague, and other tropical diseases, which are so easily recognised without any extraneous assistance, medical or lay, but which are troublesome to treat, especially when hampered by an ignorant and fussy interference. Doubtless many faults of omission and commission may be found in my book ■ but I trust that those who criticise it will do so leniently, and remember that it has been written during spare hours, when the exigencies of practice would allow of my seeking recreation bv the use of my pen.

" Oh, that mine enemy would write a book ! " was the heartfelt expression of a vindictive old gentleman, well known for his °reat patience. My enemies, I trust, are fewthose I have shall be gratified, though I hope I shall not find

PREFACE.

. III any who are utterly callous, but will use me in a gentlemanly fashion. I have ventured to describe not only my travels in the Soudan, but the journey from England and home again, extracted from my journal, which is most accurate, as I kept it religiously day by day. Much of the old-world history has been culled from various sources of information. The Illustrations of Soudan scenery, natives, and objects of interest are from rude sketches of my own, elaborated by Mr. Fanshawe, a perfect master in the art. The frontispiece is from a photograph taken by Messrs. Lombardi and Co., of Pall Mall. Although I am aware of the fact that Mr. F. L. James has published a book on the Soudan, I have carefully refrained from reading it, fearing I might inadvertently use any of his expressions, and also feeling sure that in some matters we may materially differ in opinion.

Although I have, on some occasions, written for the medical journals, I am quite aware that there may be many faults of style and finish in this my first effort at a book ; such shortcomings I would

PREFACE.

. ask the reader to overlook. It is but a plain, un varnished account of a journey through a territory hitherto but little known, and as such I trust it may be of interest to the majority of my readers.

Chapter I. Leave England For Paris Drugs And Clothing Required

A " SLEEBT " GERMAN — TURIN. I was bound for the Soudan, and had arranged to meet my party at Brindisi on the 21st of November, 1881. I therefore sent on all my heavy baggage by Peninsular and Oriental steamer to Suez; included in this was a good-sized medicine chest, well stocked with drugs for the relief or cure of nearly all the ills that flesh is heir to. I am an old campaigner, having served as a surgeon-major in the Turkish Army in 1876 and '77 , consequently had a very good idea of what drugs would be most necessary and useful. Knowing also that we were going to a very hot part of the globe, I took as few liquids, such as tinctures, &c, as possible. Everything that I could have made in the form of pills I got Messrs. Richardson and Co., of Leicester, to do ; their coated pills stood the journey splen didly, and could always be depended on.

It will not be necessary to enumerate all the con tents of the medicine-chest ; but I think it might be useful to those who take a similar journey if I men tion a few things that ought certainly to be taken, and they are the following : A good stock of quinine, oil of male-fern, as tapeworm is by no means un common ; ipecacuanha, for that formidable com plaint, dysentery ; castor oil, opium, Dover's powder, iodoform, chlorodyne, calomel, blue pill, and various other mercurial preparations, much required for com plaints in the Soudan ; iodide of potash, carbonate of soda, powdered alum, sulphate of zinc, sugar of lead, solution of atropine, solution of ammonia, Epsom salts, a large bottle of purgati-ve pills, nitrate of silver (lunar caustic), carbolic acid, lint, a few dozen bandages, and plaster in a tin.

Ointments are useless, as they soon become quite liquid in such a hot climate, and run all over the medicine chest, making a great mess. Clothing. — Of course every gentleman will be pro vided with the ordinary European clothing for use in civilized parts, but such things as nicely-polished boots, collars, neckties, and so forth, may be easily dispensed with in the Soudan. The most necessary articles are two or three dozen pairs summer socks, half-a-dozen thin flannel shirts, three or four silk shirts, three pairs of brown leather lace-up boots, and a comfortable pair of slippers, three or four suits of thin light clothing, a strong jean coat and trousers, that will not be easily torn by the thorns whilst hunting, and a pith helmet. Soldiers cannot march without easy boots, and travellers cannot travel with comfort unless they have suitable braces.

This may seem a small matter to talk about, but I have often heard strong language poured forth at the secession of a trouser-button ; and I know from past experience what a nuisance it is to be obliged to sew on one's trouser-buttons. A long time is spent in searching for a needle and thread, and a much longer time, by the unpractised one, in sewing on the button. Now, fortunately, these annoyances are things of the past, since the in vention of what is known as " the traveller's patent buttonless brace." It is simplicity itself. Instead of buttons on the trousers, there are eyelet holes, through which a little bar attached to the brace — instead of a loop — is slipped, and there is an end for ever of the nuisance of buttons coming off. A good supply of soap for washing clothes should be taken, also plenty for personal use.

Pear's Soap, I think, is an excellent one in every respect. Some of our party took thick woollen pads with them, which they wore over the spine. I did not, neither do I think them at all necessary. As I was not due at Brindisi until the 21st November, I decided to have a ramble through parts of Italy which I had not before visited. Accordingly, I left England in the early part of the month. On my way to Paris I made the acquaintance of a German residing in London. We soon got on conversational terms, and ere long he informed me that he had not been well lately, and was much concerned about himself, that one afternoon, feeling rather tired, he lay down on the sofa, intending to have a nap. He was so unhappy or unwise as to sleep for a whole week without once awaking. To sink into this blissful, state of oblivion may have its advantages, also its disadvantages.

On another occasion he performed the same feat, but indulged in this lethargic propensity fora much longer period. If I remember rightly, he observed this condition during a fortnight. However, I pointed out to him what an immense advantage this was, as he would not have his mind worried by the Income Tax, Poor Rate, and other objectionable collectors ; also what a saving in eating and drinking would be effected by this somnia similima mortis habit of his, and that balmy sleep was kind nature's sweet restorer. Strange to say, my arguments were ineffective, as he replied that " Sleeb vas all very veil in its way, but I would rater not sleeb so much as dat, as I have my business to attend to, for vich I must be wide-avake." We were glad to get off the boat that took us from Dover to Calais, as both of us suffered from that miserable complaint, mal-de-mer, to some ex tent.

We reached la belle Paris in the evening, very glad of a rest. After spending two days very pleasantly and agreeably in Paris, I took train at 9 p.m. from the Gare de Lyon for Turin. Fortu nately, a French gentleman and I were the only two occupants of the carriage during the night. We turned up the arm-rests, each occupied a side of the carriage, and slept soundly all night. At Macon we had breakfast, wash and brush up, then resumed our journey. Passing through grand mountain scenery, and quite close to the railway, we passed a beautiful lake some miles in extent, the name of which I forget. When we reached Chambery I lost my agreeable French companion. In the afternoon we ran through the Mont Cenis tunnel, the time occupied being just thirty-eight minutes. The gradient became somewhat steep, and the lovely Alpine scenery glorious and lonely, now winding through deep gorges, anon running downwards for miles along the very edge of a fearful precipice.

I reached Turin in the evening succeeding my departure from Paris. The station is situated in the Piazza Carlo Felice, and is a fine, spacious building. When my luggage had been duly in spected by Custom House officials, I was permitted to transport myself and my belongings to an omnibus from the Hotel Trambetta, whither I was driven just in time for table d'hote. Immediately after leaving the station the driver was stopped by an official, who opened the door, asked if I had any complaint to make, and looked round to see if there were any provisions, as the octroi duties prevail in Itary. I had no complaint; the door was shut, and off we went. As I did not intend to remain long in Turin, I was up the following morning in good time, de termined to see as much of the place as I could in a short time.

The streets are clean and well laid out, the houses large and handsome generally, and the town comparatively modern, although it was originally founded by a tribe called the Taurini was the capital of Piedmont during the 14th century, and the capital of Italy until 1865. The population is about 208,000, and the University perhaps the most important in Italy, there being over 1,500 students. I should liked to have spent a week in exploring Turin and the neighbourhood, but had to be content with the short time at my disposal. I took a walk down the Via Lag-rangje, and soon reached the Palazzo Madama (Piazza Castello). This Palace was used for the sittings of the Italian Senate when Turin was the seat of government (1865). In the early part of last century the mother of King Amadeus lived in and embellished it.

Opposite this is the Sardinian monument, presented to the city by the Milanese in 1859, just after the war, on which, in relievo, is the figure of Victor Emmanuel — II re galuntuomo — at the head of his troops. Just beyond the Palazzo Madama is the Palazzo Reale (Royal Palace). The exterior is nothing to look at, being plain and heavy, but the interior is magnificent. From here I extended my walk to the Giardino Reale (Royal Gardens), then the Cathedral of Turin, Santa Giovanni Battista, which was erected in the latter part of the 15th century by Pintelli. In the chapel of St. Sudorio, just behind the high altar, is a small portion of linen cloth in a glass case. This is a valuable relic, for it is said to be a portion of the cloth in which the body of the Saviour was embalmed. This may, or may not, be true ; belief in the matter is optional.

One really gets so accustomed in Italy to seeing the bones of deceased saints, a bit of the true cross, a nail of it, and so on, that the probability is nine out of ten are sceptical.

Chapter II. Milan The Cathedral

— GALLERIA VITTORIO EMMANUELE PIAZZA d'arMI PALAZZO DE BREBA — LAKE OP COMO BOLOGNA — ITS ANCIENT HISTORY LEANING TOWERS THE CERTOSA — TEATEO COMMUNALE BRINDISI. From Turin I went by train to Milan. I ought to have gone direct past Magenta, but by some mistake I found myself making quite a round-about journey, via Piacenza and Lodi ; however, all's well that ends well. I arrived at the hotel in Milan in time for table d'hdte. Now, although I am writing a book principally on travels and adventures in Egypt and the Soudan, I dare say my readers will excuse me if I attempt a description of my travels out and home. All the places I visited were extremely interesting to me, and I cannot forbear a little gossip and relating what I know respecting them. Those who have not visited these places will perhaps be pleas ed to read my description, and those who have will be able to compare notes and see if they are correct.

I had been told that the best time to visit IlDuomo — the Cathedral — was at eight or nine o'clock in the morning, on account of the splendid view obtainable from the roof; this I did on the morning following my arrival, and was richly rewarded for my trouble. II Duomo is certainly a magnificent structure, inferior in magnitude to St. Peter's at Rome, but in some respects not an unworthy rival. It is built of white marble, and is one of the most impressive ecclesiastical edifices in the world. In its present form it was commenced in 1387, and is not yet entirely completed. Its form is that of a Latin cross, divided into five naves, terminated by an octagonal apsis, and supported by fifty-two octagonal pilasters of uniform size, except four, which, having to bear the cupola, are larger. Around the exterior are 4,500 niches, of which above 3,000 are already occupied by statues.

In the interior everything is of the most imposing and gorgeous description. I said everything, but I should except an image of wax of the Virgin Mary, with the infant Saviour in her arms. The waxen face and arms looked very dirty, her attire was very commonplace-looking stuff, and I did not think her rather dirty-looking neck was much improved by a bit of paltry-looking green ribbon encircling it. This image would certainly be more suitable at Madame Tussaud's than in this beautiful cathedral. But I will finish with the exterior. The roof is a perfect forest of marble pinnacles, nearly all crammed with most valuable marble statues. The celebrated marble flower-bed contains several thou sand flowers, each distinct and each different in design. I leave the roof and ascend the tower, from which I obtain a magnificent view of the Alpine range, Mont Blanc, Monte Rosa, the St. Bernard and Matterhorn right away to the Superga and Mont Cenis.

In the interior we notice the rich stained-odass windows of the choir, comprising about 350 sub jects of Biblical history, the Gothic decorations of the sacristy, the candelabra in front of the altar shaped like a tree, and decorated with jewels, then the Chapel of St. Borromeo, which is a subterranean chapel of a most gorgeous and costly character, as it is one mass of jewels. The shrine and walls are silver, all inlaid with gold and precious stones. If I remember rightly, I paid a franc extra for my visit here, and had the gratification of seeing the embalmed body of St. Borromeo, with the valuable rings of office still on his fingers. A golden Ærown (presented by the unfortunate Maria Teresa) is suspended over his head, and a large crucifix of splendid emeralds lies on his chest — this, I am told, was given by the Empress of Austria.

Of course, in Milan, as in all large towns in Italy, there are any number of beautiful and remarkable churches. Among the most remarkable edifices are the church of Sant' Ambrogio, founded by St. Ambrose in 387, the churches of Sant' Eustargio, San Lorenzo, Santa Maria delle Grazie, with a cupola and sacristy by Bramante, and the celebrated Last Supper by Leonardo da Vinci; Santa Maria della Passione, a majestic edifice, with excellent paintings and a magnificent mausoleum ; San Paolo, San Carlo Borromeo, &c. Immediately adjoining the Cathedral is a magnificent square, which was finished on the occasion of the Austrian Emperor's visit to Milan in 1875. This is called the Piazza del Duomo. From this square I pass through the Galleria Vittorio Em manuele, a very fine glass-roofed arcade, or gallery, connecting the Piazza del Duomo with the Scala Theatre ; the cost of this was about £320,000.

It was commenced in 1865 and opened in 1867. The glass canopy is illuminated by 2,000 jets of was, and when these and the beautiful and brilliant shops are lighted the effect is charming. The leno-th of this kind of covered street is 320 yards. La Scala Theatre was not open for performances when I was there, but by the judicious disposition of a franc or so I obtained admission just to see it. It is, I understand, capable of accommodating 3,600 spec tators. I next strolled on to the Piazza d'Armi, which occupies an immense space, obtained by the demolition of the citadel and its outworks. Part of it has been converted into an amphitheatre, 800 feet long by 400 feet broad, used in summer for races and shows, and capable of containing 30,000 spectators. The castle, now a barrack, fronts the Piazza d'Armi on one side ; at the opposite side is the Porta Sempione, with the fine Arco Sempione, or Arco della Pace.

This is a lofty gateway, with three passages, built of blocks of white marble, adorned with reliefs and statues, and bearing in scriptions commemorating the emancipation of Italy. My next visit was to the Palazzo di Brera, or Delle Scienze Lettere ed Arte, containing the Pinacoteca, or picture-gallery, with a very valuable collection of paintings and statuary, and containing also the library of the Academy (170,000 volumes). Besides this library, Milan possesses the Ambrosian library, the earliest and still one of the most valuable public libraries in Europe. There is also a valuable museum of natural history, a conservatory of music, c a military college, a theological seminary, and a veterinary school. Though Milan is one of the most ancient towns in Lombardy, it has so often been partially destroyed and rebuilt that few antiquities remain.

It is entered by eleven gates, several of which are magnificent. Its foundation is attributed to the Insu brian Gauls ; but the first distinct notice of it occurs B.C. 221, when it was subdued by the Romans, under whom it acquired so much importance that in the division of the empire attributed to Constantine the Great it ranks as the second city of Italy. In the middle of the fifth century it was sacked by the Huns, under Attila, and again in the following century by the Goths ; but greater horrors yet awaited it, for the Goths, who had been driven out by Belisarius, having regained possession by the aid of the Burgundians, gave it up to the flames, and put almost all its inhabitants to the sword. The most important manufactures are tobacco, silks, cottons, lace, carpets, hats, earthenware, white-lead, jewelry, and articles in gold and silver.

The spinning and throwing of silk employs a large number of bands, and furnish the staple article of trade. The other principal articles are corn, rice, cheese, and wines. In the evening of the second day (whilst encrao-ed in the purchase of everything Milanese in the way of photographs) I met with a Milan gentleman, who had lived some years in America, and who could speak English remarkably well. He was a genial, good-hearted looking kind of fellow, and we soon got into an animated conversation. I was surprised to find how well up he was in English politics, and as for the Irish question, he could hold his own with any Englishman ; he was, too, a great admirer of Lord Beaconsfield. When we had had about an hour's chat I was about to return to my hotel ; he then asked me how long I was going to remain in Milan.

I told him I intended leaving next day for Bologna. " Have you seen the lake of Como ?" said he. " No," I replied. " I should like to do so very much, but fear I cannot spare the time, as I have to be at Brindisi on the 21st." " But you must not leave," said he, " until you have been there ; it is only a run of thirty miles to Como by rail. I live there. Come to-morrow and visit me, and I will put you in the way of seeing Bologna in half the time that you would do it in without assistance." This very kind offer I accepted, and spent next day a very agreeable time with my new acquaintance, who was most hospitable and friendly. We parted with mutual protestations of goodwill, and I took train for Bologna, which is several hours' ride from Milan. Bologna (anciently Bonovia) is one of the oldest, largest, and richest cities of Italy.