Travels in Italy, Greece, and the Ionian Islands, in a series of letters ... with engravings, etc

Front matter

TRAVELS IN ITALY, GREECE, AND THE IONIAN ISLANDS. TRAVELS IN' ITALY, GREECE, AND THE IONIAN ISLANDS. IN A SERIES OF LETTERS, DESCRIPTIVE OF MANNERS, SCENERY, AND THE FINE ARTS. By H. W. WILLIAMS, Esq. WITH ENGRAVINGS FROM ORIGINAL DRAWINGS. IN TWO VOLUMES. VOL. I. EDINBURGH : PRINTED FOR ARCHIBALD CONSTABLE AND CO. EDINBURGH AND HURST, ROBINSON, AND CO. 90, CHEAl'SIDE, LONDON. 1820. TO THE REVEKEND JOHN THOMSON, F.R.S.E. THESE LETTERS FROM ITALY ARE INSCRIBED, BY HIS SINCERE FRIEND, II. W. WILLIAMS.

Preface

. In presenting these Letters to the public, it were equally idle to affect indifference to their reception, or overwhelming solicitude. Were I ambitious of literary fame, I might, indeed, sink under the consciousness of having engaged in an undertaking, so foreign to my previous habits and pursuits ; while I could not fail to be still more discouraged by the learning and talents of those accom plished travellers, with whom I should thus be brought into immediate comparison. My aim has been different and less aspiring; and were it necessary to apologize for the apparent presumption, of obtruding on the public an account of my travels in countries, already so frequently and amply described as almost to satiate curiosity, I would derive

PREFACE.

. my apology from those very circumstances, which disqualify me from competing with my more learned predecessors. The dis quisitions into which the antiquary and the classical scholar are perpetually and irresist ibly led, in adverting to the scenes of his torical or fabulous celebrity, and to the vari ous monuments of ancient times, which in Greece and Italy meet us at every step, are apt to withdraw their attention from objects of more obvious, though not inferior, inter est; and leave the general reader, but, above all, the future traveller in the same countries, cause to regret, that so disproportion ate a share of their works is devoted to these disquisitions, to the exclusion of much valuable information. Besides, our modes of observation are as various as our mental peculiarities. What one traveller may be inclined to disregard, another may consider as worthy of especial attention j and a corresponding variety of tastes may be expected in their readers. The writer, therefore, who con-

PREFACE.

. IX tents himself with describing scenes and objects as they presented themselves to his own mind, and expressing his senti ments as they arose, can scarcely fail to excite some degree of interest, and to im part to his information the freshness, of originality. To this end my ambition as an author is limited, — happy if I have suc ceeded in delineating faithfully the objects which were most attractive to myself, and in conveying to my readers some impres sion of the feelings, with which I contemplated the scenery and the precious monu ments of the most interesting countries in the world. My professional habits may have inclined me to indulge in more lengthened remarks on works of art, than may appear, to some of my readers, either necessary or proper. Of this propensity I was myself aware, and frequently endeavoured to restrain it. Yet who could resist dwelling with enthusiasm on those great masterpieces, which have commanded the admiration, and regulated X

PREFACE.

. the taste of ages ; and which, while they exist, will continue to impart their princi pal interest to the favoured countries in wliich they were produced? In Britain, where the Fine Arts now flourish with a vigour, that bids fair to rival the best pro ductions of antiquity, these remarks may be considered as not altogether devoid of interest. They may furnish some useful hints to those who have no opportunity of contemplating the splendid originals to which they refer ; they may be of some ad vantage to our ingenuous youth, whose chief object in visiting those countries, is, to improve their taste by the study of the inimitable monuments of genius with which they are enriched ; and may tend to shew the causes which have contributed to the degeneracy of the modern Italian Schools, and the improvements of which their present modes of study appear to be susceptible. From all that 1 have had an opportunity of observing abroad, my uniform aim has

PREFACE.

. XI been, to select what might be ornamental or useful at home ; and most fortunate should I account myself, if the suggestions which I have occasionally presumed to offer, should lead to any practical advan tage, — particularly in the embellishment of our northern capital. To do justice to the merits of our Bri tish artists, who, in almost every depart ment, leave their contemporaries on the Continent far behind, was another object which I had much at heart. Wherever an opportunity occurred of bringing the works of our eminent painters, particularly in Edinburgh, into comparison with those which I have seen in Italy, I embraced it with eagerness ; and have only to regret, that these opportunities have been so rare as to oblige me to omit some names, well en titled to praise. To the compositions of Mr Gibson, the miniatures of Mr Douglas, the portraits of Mr Watson, Mr Sime, and of Mr John Watson, whose surprising progress in the art is the theme of general admira-

PREFACE.

. tion, — it would have given me much pleasure to advert ; and, perhaps, an opportu nity may hereafter be found. The Plates which accompany these Letters are engrav ed by Mr Lizars ; and the style in which they are executed are, in every respect, worthy of his well-earned celebrity. I have only to add, that, though I am chargeable with all the faults which may be detected in these Letters, there are some parts of them of which I cannot claim the praise. The accomplished and invaluable friend with whom it was my happiness to travel, allowed me to tran scribe from his Journal the Letters from Elba, part of the Journey to Otranto, and the Description of the Ionian Islands.* To another friend I am indebted for a few ob servations on the Manners of the Romans ; and a considerable portion of the information contained in the Twenty-ninth and * Except the description of Ithaca, and part of Cephalo nia, which I drew up from my own Notes.

PR.EFACE. XIII Thirty-second Letters, as well as the docu ment respecting the Mineralogy of Elba, was communicated to me by a gentleman of high literary eminence, whose long residence in Italy gave him the best opportunities of information, and whose intimacy I deem one of the greatest pleasures of my life. In the progress of the Letters through the press, some inaccuracies have escaped, which the intelligent reader will easily correct, and which, I trust, his candour will forgive. Edinburgh, 3d December 1819. CONTENTS OF VOLUME I.

Letter V

Geneva Black Forest. — Hercynian Forest. — Basle. — Holbein. — Swiss Painters. — Scenery between Basle and Soleure. — Alps. — Swiss Cottages. — Orbe. — Lau- CONTENTS. Page 3-1 43 51 63 71 sanne. — Lake of Geneva. — Geneva. — Arve and Rhone, — Landscape Painters, - - .

Letter VI

Milan.-— Vales of Cleuse and Servos Vale of Chamouni. — Alpine Scenery. — Valossen and Tetenoire. — Trient. — Plain of the Valais Simplon Domo d' Ossola Lago Maggiore. — Milan Leonardo da Vinci. — Ambrosian Library. — Appearance of Milan,

Letter VII

Parma Lodi Piacenza. — Francisco Mochi — Cathedral — Church of St Augustine — Church of St John Parma. — Correggio. — Parmigiano. — Paintings by Correggio. — Caraccis. — Schidone. — G uercino. — Procaccini. — Prize Pictures. — Library. — Museum of Antiquities at Valeia, ...

Letter VIII

Modena and Bologna. — Modena. — The Palace and Pictures. — Academy, and ancient and modern Paintings. — Bologna. — Pictures returned from Paris.— Paintings from the suppressed Monasteries. — Mariscalchi Palace and Pictures. — Church of San Petronico. — Fountain in the Piazza del Giganti. — View from the Tower of Asinelli,

Letter IX

Florence. — Pietra Mala. — View from the Tower of Forabosche. — Statues in the Palazzo Vecchio. Piazzo del Granduca and Loggia de Lanzi. Hercules and Centaur, near the Ponti Vecchio, CONTENTS. XVII Page 86 101 130

Letter X

Florence. — Remarks on the Series of Ancient Pictures in the Corridor, and Statues and Pictures in the Tribune, - -

Letter XI

Florence. — Pictures of the Venetian School Tuscan School. — DutchSchool. — Flemish andGermanSchool. — Description of a Landscape by Claude. — French School. — Observations on the Origin of Landscape- Painting in the Grand Style. — French School continued. — Portraits. — Salle de Frate. — Some account of the various grounds which several of the Painters have used. — Copyists. — Statues of the Niobe Family. — Observations on Mr Cockerell's idea regarding thc Niobe Marbles. — Rubens' Battles, and entry of Henry IV. into Paris, in the Salle de Niobe. — Statue of the Hermaphrodite. — Bronzes and Gems. — Marbles in the Corridor. — Observations on the measuring of Statues, ....

Letter XII

Florence. — The Cathedral. — Santa Croce. — Tomb of M. Angelo. — Santissima Annunziata. — Votive Offerings. — Organs Sopranos Pulpits. — Chapel de' Depositi M. Angelo's Statues. — Ghiberti's Gates. — Prison. — Madhouse Santa Maria Nuovella — Society called the Buonuomini di San Martino. — And Society of Misericordia, - -

Letter XIII

Florence. — Academy delle Belle Arte Its Pictures, Casts, Drawings, &c Character of the Prize Pictures. — A more extensive Study of Nature recom- VOL. I. b CONTENTS. Page 114 15_ 180 192 204 mended. — Rules of the Academy in regard to admis sion of Students, Prizes, &c. — Porcelain Manufac tory. — Artists. — Bartolini, Benvenuti, &c. — Morg hen the Engraver. — Canova's Venus, compared with the Venus of Cleomenes, ...

Letter XIV

Florence. Description of the Pictures in the Palazzo Pitti, and likewise the Palaces Corsini, Gerini, Mozi, Ricardi. — Palace of Marquis Amelio Puci, and Pandolphini, -

Letter XV

Florence. — Visit to the three Sanctuaries, Vallombrosa, Camaldoli, and La Verna. — Reflections on Monastic Institutions, ...

Letter XVI

Leghorn. — Road to Pisa. — Tower of San Miniato. — Pisa.— Road to Leghorn. — Remarks on Brilliancy of Colouring. — Leghorn. — Taste for Dancing — Lazarettos. — Fate of Dr Smollet's Diploma. — Remarks on Cemeteries, - - -

Letter XVII

Elba. — Coast of Italy from Leghorn to Populonea. — Fishing of Anchovies Elba. — Palace of Napoleon. —Napoleon. — His Improvements and Popularity.— Revenue of Elba.— Political importance. — Appearance of the Country. — Game. — Noxious Animals,

Letter XVIII

Elba.— Agriculture — Vineyards.— Terras of Tenure. CONTENTS, XIX Page 216 227 242 249 267 — Want of Grain.— Fruit Trees.— Wines. — Malaria. —Count Strasoldo. — Fossi Family,

Letter XIX

Quarry of White Marble. — Napoleon's Country House at San Martino Lucera. Volterrajo. — Monte Cristo. — St Piero and Ilario. — Granite Pillars at Sacchetta. — Pianoso. — Poggio. — Water Spouts Napoleon's Departure.— Sketch by Napoleon.— .Napoleon believed to be in England. — Tunny Fishery.— Variety of Fish. — Magnetic Mountain. — Elbese Sailors.— Populonia History of Elba,

Letter XX

Florence.— Return to Florence by Lucca. — Baths of Pisa.— -Lucca. — Baths of Lucca.— Observations on sketching rapidly. — Pistoia. — Prato,

Letter XXI

Perugia.—- Road to Rome.— Arezzo. — Pictures in the Cathedral. — Italian Sky. — Intrinsic beauty of Dew Drops.—- Lake of Thrasimene. — Perugia. — Pictures, Academy, and Buildings. — Pictures by Raphael, Perugino, and Guide— Observations on giving such pictures to youth to study from. — Casa della Penna. —Petrifying Spring of San Phillipo, applied to the formation of Casts, ...

Letter XXII

Rome. — Journey to Rome. — Foligna. — Temple of Clitumnus. — Spoleto Terni Narni. — Otricoli — Civita. — Castellana. — Nepi. — Arrival at Rome, CONTENTS. XX

Letter XXIII

Page Rome Panorama from the Top of the Capitol. — Sketch of the interior of St Peter's, - - 284

Letter XXIV

Rome. Rome as it appears from elevated situations. — Gates Streets Palaces Varied Population — Shops. — Inferior streets Destruction of ancient marble. — Squares Obelisks — Churches. — External effect of St Peter's.— Pantheon. — Remains of antiquity preserved in the walls, ... 292

Letter XXV

Rome. — The Ruins by Moonlight — Column of Trajan. — Temples of Nerva, Pallas, and Peace — Coliseum, and Ruins in the ancient Forum, ... 299

Letter XXVII

Rome. — Ruins of Rome Their interest to the Antiquary and Painter The use made of them by the old Masters. — The profusion of materials and facilities for composition, pointed out by Claude, Poussin, and Domenichino Conduct of the modern Artists. — State of the Arts in Rome. — The example of the British Painters may tend to the resuscitation of Italian Art. — Sculpture — Remarks on Canova's and Thorwaldson's works, a comparison between them. Appearance of their Studios. — Gem and Copperplate Engraving — State of Architecture. — Hints to planting in Edinburgh, - S18 CONTENTS. XXI

Letter XXVIII

Page Rome.— Pictures in the Gallery of the Vatican Michael Angelo's Fresco Painting of the Last Judgment, and his Creation of Man in the Sistine Chapel, 334

Letter XXIX

Rome. — Character of the Pope. — His Situation. — His Holiness's wish to establish a Catholic Bishop at Corfu.— Mode of Introduction to the Pope. — Exiled Literary Persons. — State of Papal Revenue 1817- — Cardinal Ruffo. — Cardinal Fesch. — Dissatisfaction in the creating of a number of Cardinals. — Vatican Library. — Propaganda Fide. — Restoration of Ancient MS. to Germany Libraries. — Dr Sebastiano's researches, - 348

Letter XXX

Rome — Indolence of the Roman Nobility. — Its causes. — Malaria. — Education of the Noblemen. — Their want of dignity Morals of the Women. — Cavalieri Servienti. — Education of the Girls. — They go more to foreign society than formerly. — British Ladies do not associate much with the Italian Ladies. — Duke of B — *s Routes Dress of the Italian Ladies. — Their Manners contrasted with those of Women of other Nations. — Conversation Room. — Gaming Room.— Music Room. — English Parties, 359

Letter XXXI

Rome. — Ball at the Neapolitan Ambassador's. — Character of a Roman Masquerade. — Want of Hospitality. — Character of a Converzatione. — Improwisatores. — Amusements of the Peasantry. — Love Epistles written by people who make a Livelihood by them. — Fighting with Knives and Stones. — Contrasts in Rome, CONTENTS. Page Appendix, 385 No. I.— Mineralogical Report, made by the Chief Engineer of the Grand Duke of Tuscany to his Serene Highness, respecting Elba, S87 No. II.— Plants within the Coliseum, DIRECTIONS FOR PLACING THE ENGRAVINGS. VOL. I. Design for a Cemetery, frontispiece to Vol. I. Sketches from Italian Cottages, to front page 63 Fire at Pietra Mala, - - 72 Sketches of Italian and Grecian Chimneys, •- 75 Fortress at Porte Ferrajo, with the Palace of Napoleon, 206 Fac-Simile of a Sketch by the Emperor Napoleon, 235 Sketch from the Skull of Raphael, - - 323» Italian Peasant, - - - 380 Italian Peasant and Children, - - ib.

Italian Costumes, - - - ib. VOL. II Portrait of the Priest of Delphi, frontispiece to Vol. II. Castle of Otranto, - - to front page 145 Medals emblematical of the Ionian Islands, - 189 Do. do. - - ib. Greek Dance, - - - 225 Caloyer Priests of Daulis, - - 268 Etchings of Leaves, 283 Grecian Melodies, ... 368 Greek Costumes, - - TRAVELS IN ITALY, GREECE, AND THE IONIAN ISLANDS.

Letter I

Ostend. — A fair or kirmes. — Popinjay. — Harbour. — Lighthouse. — Track-boat. — Bruges — Scenery. — Cathedral Nunnery. My Dear Sir, Bruges, July 1816. I ou know how reluctantly I yielded to your request, that I should transmit to you, with every opportunity, an account of all that we should hear or see worthy of notice, in the course of our travels : and I am now repenting, in good earnest, of my thoughtless facility. To myself, indeed, the field that lies before me is a field of the richest promise ; and my fancy seems already to realize the glowing picture which you pourtrayed of the countries which we are to visit ; countries which have long been celebrated for all that is lovely in nature, and exquisite in art. I anticipate, with the most ardent expectation, the pleasure which I shall enjoy in treading that soil which was consecrated by the first footsteps of Liberty, — in traver- VOL. I. A OSTEND. sing the chosen haunts of the Muses, — in be coming a temporary inhabitant of those lands, which are endeared by all our earliest and most refined associations, and where the human mind display ed its noblest energies, — and in contemplating the most wonderful monuments of genius, amidst the enchanting localities by which it was inspired.

All this promises, to be sure, to be very delight ful ; but since all this has been so often enjoyed, and so well described by former travellers, shall I not be in danger either of repeating to you what you al ready know, or of eking out for you a meagre en tertainment from the gleanings which my predecessors have left ? Be moderate, then, in your ex pectations. All that I propose is, to tell you, in my own way, what we see ; and, if my information be not new, I promise you, at least, that it shall not be borrowed. On the 6th of July, (1816,) we took our passage for Ostend at an agent's office in Exeter 'Change. Our carriage was taken to pieces and properly shipped. This was no sooner done, than we were informed that the vessel went no farther than to Ramsgate, where the carriage must be unshipped and put on board another packet.

In short, we were deceived ; and I hereby give warning to all future travellers, to be more particular in their previous inquiries. Fortunately, when we arrived at Ramsgate, a vessel was ready to sail, and we KIRMES POPINJAY. were quickly transported to Ostend. We took up our quarters at the Hotel Wellington, in which, after a tolerable dinner, we were regaled with Champagne not much inferior to our Perry. In walking through the town, the first I had ever seen on the continent, our eyes, you may be sure, were not idle. A fair, or kirmes, had been held here for three days, and was to continue as many more. Nothing but rejoicing and merry-making prevailed. Of their various amusements, the most interesting to us was their archery, which carried back our recollection to the games of our ances tors, and seemed to place before our eyes the original mode of shooting at the popinjay.

Prizes were given to the best marksmen, and certainly some of them were very expert. There was fixed in the ground a long pole, about sixty or seventy feet in height, at the top of which was fastened a horizontal bar of wood. On this were hung seve ral pieces of tin, resembling small birds in size and shape ; these they brought to the ground perhaps once in twenty shots. People from various parts of the country joined in this amusement, and high and low mixed together on the most familiar terms ; indeed, all distinction of rank seemed to be for the time forgotten. In one of the processions, headed by a band of music, I perceived various orders of the people, including military men, arti sans, peasants from the country, women, and even HARBOUR LIGHT-HOUSE. children. Such a set of merry, happy faces — Heraclitus himself, had he been there, must have caught the contagion of their gaiety, and joined, as we did with our whole souls, in their light hearted laugh.

The women of the lower orders were somewhat like our Highland shearers, but with this exception, that they all wore monstrous ear-rings dangling to their shoulders — not one of them was handsome. The piers of the harbour are composed of logs of wood driven into the ground, and apparently going to decay. To us, who had just left the bustle of the Thames, the stillness of Ostend harbour presented a most cheerless contrast. It re sembles, indeed, one of the deserted havens of the coast of Fife, rather than the port of a populous town, for it displayed not the slightest appearance of business. It is said that the Prince of Orange was ill-received, and that the Belgians would pre fer being under British protection. We were much pleased with the light-house built by Napoleon **. it is in good taste, and not unlike the column of Tra jan at Rome.

The fortifications are already over grown with grass and plants. We were not allowed to walk on them, however, but were rudely ordered off by a Belgian soldier. At the customhouse, the officers, all French, examined our trunks, and re placed every article with a nicety peculiar to them. selves : they were very civil ; indeed, they had no TRACK-BOAT — BRUGES. reason to behave otherwise, for we were upon our honour with them in every respect. A small per centage was paid for the carriage, and we were free. Matters being thus settled, we took our passage on board a track-boat for the town of Bruges. The boat was full of people, young and old, rich and poor. The evening smiled, and the effect of all was pleasing. It was impossible not to recognize here the land of Cuyp ; and the scenes through which we glided, lighted up, as they were, with the beams of the setting sun, strongly recalled to our recollection the magical productions of his pencil.

On board, we had a small band of music, consisting of three girls and two men. The girls played the violin, the men a bass and flute ; and really their music was quite delightful ! After travelling fifteen miles in this agreeableman ner, through a country extremely flat, but rich and highly cultivated, we arrived at Bruges. This beautiful town, in the days of its ancient importance, contained 150,000 inhabitants, but now it has not 30,000 at the utmost ; and several of the splendid houses and palaces are tenantless. The opening of the Scheldt destroyed its commerce, and the in habitants were obliged to go where trade was flourishing. We are living in the hotel called the Fleur de Bled, and every thing is comfortable, though not so clean as in our own good country. We have formed acquaintance with a gentleman SCENERY — CATHEDRAL. who knows every nook and corner of the city.

At our request he led us first to what is called the Tower, that, previous to any particular excursion, we might obtain some general idea of the situation and principal features of the surrounding scenery ; nor is it possible, without going to an elevated station, to obtain a just or comprehensive notion of the country of the Netherlands, or to ascertain, without much unnecessary labour, the objects most worthy of notice, or the points of view from which they may be seen or drawn to advantage. The extensive scene was rich in wood and cultivation ; few villages appeared, but every thing bespoke comfort, peace, and plenty. From the fields near the town, I was charmed with the variety and beauty of the public buildings, and the handsome spires and steeples. The tower on which we stood is singular and picturesque, and the churches of Jerusalem and Notre Dame are noble features.

On entering the cathedral, every thing was en tirely new to me. No priest was present, but va rious descriptions of persons were on their knees ; some were in lonely places, in order to be free from interruption ; often their attitudes were beautiful and interesting ; some with outspread arms, others with clasped hands, praying with the utmost fervour, and generally, as their fancy inclined them, before pictures, sculpture, or tapestry. At the high altar, there was a representation of the NUNNERY. 7 Virgin and Child, in wax, both coloured and dres sed like dolls, and not much larger than those which our little misses carry in their arms. A multitude of suppliants surrounded the altar, which was decorated with votive offerings in silver and gold, representing heads, legs, arms, and hearts, which had been cured by prayers before the Virgin.

The hearts prevailed three to one, from which your philosophical head will probably infer that, in all countries, the heart-ach is the most prevalent malady ; and as a grave divine might per haps, with as much reason, conclude that religion is its most effectual cure. Innumerable small candles were burning, though it was then mid-day, and the sun was shining in the church ; — a third light seemed yet awanting, and that was the light of reason. The pictures in the cathedral were not much above mediocrity. One or two had just arrived from the Louvre ; and I confess it excited my surprise, that the French should have thought of removing such indifferent productions of the pencil. We visited various other churches, and found their internal appearance much alike. From the churches we were taken to a nunnery.

On presenting ourselves at the grate, in a small outer room which is approached through a court-yard, the Abbess appeared with gracious smiles. Our friend was known to her ; and, after a little re- NUNNERY. spectful compliment and inquiry, he asked if we might be allowed to see the chapel. With great politeness she consented. Her manner, which was such as shewed she knew the world, correct ed in some degree the dismal ideas that we had formed of the monastic life. Availing ourselves of the Abbess's permission, we went to the place of worship, on entering which we were struck with its general air of purity and elegance. The walls and seats were white ; the altar, composed of various marbles and precious stones, graced the head of the church, at the opposite end to which was a gallery. Two pictures by Vandyke hung upon the walls, but they were by no means in the best style of that master.

The Ascension was the sub ject of one, and a saint of the other. In the for mer, the figure of Christ was tolerably drawn, and possessed great brilliancy of effect ; but the dark figure introduced for the purpose of aiding this appearance, is so injudiciously contrived and manag ed, that the artifice is offensively evident, and inter feres with the general sentiment of the subject. We had not been long in the chapel when a nun came forward in the gallery, in a slow and solemn manner, courtesying low. At first we thought the compliment was intended for us, but we soon perceived that her attention was directed to a cross placed in the middle of the gallery. A .second and a third advanced in the same manner, NUNNERY. and at last several came together. When as sembled, there might be from ten to twelve ; some were old, some were young, and very pale ; one seemed extremely beautiful.

After they had been seated a short time, a novice rose and rung the convent bell, the rope of which hung from the roof in the middle of the gallery. W"e stopped no longer, fearing we might give offence ; but who could resist remaining in the outer room while they chaunted service ? It was affecting, and most sincerely did I wish that God might bless them. But what can I say of their voluntary retreat from the duties of the world ? Their self-denial may be a virtue, but I fear of little value. Lately several ro mantic ladies, two of whom, indeed, were relations of the gentleman who accompanied us, had formed the resolution of becoming nuns, but they soon changed their minds, and only one of six remained. On taking the veil, they must advance L.6O0 ; and, at their demise, their fortunes become the property of the establishment.

When monastic institutions were suppressed by Bonaparte, this nunnery was spared, in consideration of its educating some young females gratis, and being in other respects most exemplary. To-morrow early we set off for Ghent and Brus sels ; from the latter place you may expect to hear from me.

Letter II

Ghent. — Church cf Saint Brevon — Scenery. — Alost. — Brussels. — Cathedral. — Peter the Great. — High Mass. Brussels, July IS 16. The country through which we travelled from Bruges to Ghent was rich in various crops, some of which were already cut down ; barley and rye seemed to prevail. The roads were excellent, paved in the middle, but by no means rough. Ghent is a town of considerable extent, and of great beauty. The canals which intersect it, covered with boats and barges, afford the finest sub jects for the pencil. Vangoen, or Vanderneer, could have been at no loss in choosing from such variety. The cathedral and churches are very fine, especially the church of Saint Brevon, which, it is said, is the oldest cathedral church in the world. The Crypt was the original place of wor ship, and is full of rotten pictures and mouldering saints.

The present cathedral, which is very an cient, was built on the foundations of the old, and the crypt, which I have mentioned, is preserved in its primitive state. In the church, there are some specimens of the early school of sculpture, in very bad taste, frittered into small parts, and GHENT AL0ST. devoid of all resemblance to nature. The pictures, in general, are by masters of no celebrity or talent, and excite disgust rather than pleasure. As for the wax dolls, I did not look at them a se cond time, lest I should be tempted to smile, when decorum required that I should be serious. Some of the public buildings are rather elegant, and there is a good display of steeples in the simple Gothic style. We mounted one of them to obtain a view of the country, which, in its general cha racter, bears a remarkable resemblance to the rich and splendid scenery which we saw from the tower of Bruges.