Camping in the Canadian Rockies ... With ... a sketch of the early explorations ... With ... illustrations, etc

Front matter

Mount Assiniboine. CAMPING IN THE CANADIAN ROCKIES AN ACCOUNT OF CAMP LIFE IN THE WILDER PARTS OF THE CANADIAN ROCKY MOUNTAINS, TOGETHER WITH A DESCRIPTION OF THE REGION ABOUT BANFF, LAKE LOUISE, AND GLACIER, AND A SKETCH OF THE EARLY EXPLORATIONS BY WALTER DW1GHT WILCOX WITH TWENTY-FIVE FULL-PAGE PHOTOGRAVURES, AND MANY TEXT ILLUSTRATIONS FROM PHOTOGRAPHS BY THE AUTHOR G. P. rUTNAM'S SONS NEW YORK LONDON 27 West Twenty-third Street 24 Bedford Street, Strand (Dlje jinickcrboclur Copyright. 1896 BY G. P. PUTNAM'S SONS Entered at Stationers' Hall, London Tibe lKnicfecrbocrict press, mew Uorft

Preface

. THE Canadian Rocky Mountains offer exceptional attractions to those who enjoy natural scenery. sport, and camp life. Few regions of the world combining mountain, lake, and forest scenery possess the additional advantage of a delightful summer climate, such as obtains in the Canadian Rockies. The extremely wild character of this part of the Rocky Mountains, and the very short time since it was opened up to travellers, are probably, in great part, the reasons for the lack of literature and the absence of any thoroughly illustrated publication concerning this region. During a period of four years, the author has made camping excursions into many of the wilder parts of the mountains and effected a considerable number of ascents. An excellent camera has been an almost inseparable com panion in every excursion, so that photographs of the typical scenery have been obtained from every possible point of view.

Moreover, throughout all the processes of photographing, no expense of time or labor has been spared in order to obtain true and artistic representations of nature. Nor have these results been obtained without in Preface. IV considerable sacrifice, for in many cases the proper light effects on lakes and forests required hours of delay, and frequently, on lofty mountain summits, high winds made it necessary to anchor the camera with stones ; while the cold and exposure of those high altitudes made the cir cumstances unfavorable for successful work. A map is not included in the volume, as, owing to the wildness of the country, there are no detailed maps cover ing this region that are entirely satisfactory. The best map, and, in fact, the only one available, is published in Dr. Dawson's Preliminary Report on this part of the Rocky Mountains.

The author makes grateful acknowledgment of the assistance received from many friends in the preparation of this book. Special thanks are due to Prof. J. H. Gore, of Columbian University, and to the Hon. Chas. D. Wal cott, Director of the United States Geological Survey, for the valuable aid and information given by them ; to M. Guillaume La Mothe for an interesting letter concerning the first exploration of the Fraser River ; and to Sir William Van Home for the many courtesies extended. W. D. W. Washington, D.C., July, 1896. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Banff — Its Location — The Village — Tourists — Hotels — Topography of the Region — Rundle and Cascade Mountains — The Devil's Lake — Sir George Simpson s Journey to this Region — Peechee the Indian Guide — An Indian Legend — The Missionary Rundle — Dr. Hector — The Climate of Banff — A Summer Snow- Storm — The Mountains in Winter 1-15

Chapter II

Lake Louise — First Impressions — An Abode of Perpetual Winter — The Chalet — Visitors — Stirring Tales of Adventure — Primeval Forests — Forest Fires — Mosquitoes and Bull-Dog Flies — Mortal Combats between Wasps and Bull-dogs — The Old Chalet — Morning on the Lake — Approach of a Storm — Sublimity of a Mountain Thunder- Storm — Cloud Effects — The Lake in October — A Magnificent Avalanche from Mount Lefroy — A Warning of Approaching Winter . ..... 16-35

Chapter III

Surroundings of the Lake — Position of Mountains and Valleys — The Spruce and Balsam Firs — The Ly all's Larch — Alpine Flowers — The Trail among the Cliffs — The Beehive, a Monument of the Past — Lake Agnes, a Lake of Solitude — Summit of the Beehive— Lake Louise in the Distant Future ......... 36-46 v Contents. VI

Chapter IV

Organizing a Party for the Mountains — Our Plans for the Summer- William Twin and Tom Chiniquy — Nature, Habits, and Dress of the Stoney Indians — An Excursion on the Glacier — The Surface Debris and its Origin — Snow Line — Ascent of the Couloir — A Terrible Accident— Getting Dozen — An Exhausting Return for Aid— Hasty Organization of a Rescue Party — Cold and Miserable Wait on the Glacier— Unpleasant Surmises — "/ Think You Die" — A Fortunate Termination . 47-64

Chapter V

Castle Crags — Early Morning on the Mountain Side — View from the Summit — Ascent of the Aiguille — An Avalanche of Rocks — A Glorious Glissade — St. Piran — Its Alpine Flowers and Butterflies — Expedition to an Unexplored Valley — A Thirsty Walk through the Forest — Discovery of a Mountain Torrent — A Lake in the Forest — A Mountain Amphi theatre — The Saddle — Impressive View of Mount Temple — Summit of Great Mountain — An Ascent in Vain — A Sudden Storm in the High -Moun tains — Phenomenal Fall of Temperature — Grand Cloud Effects, 65—83

Chapter VI

Paradise Valley — The Mitre Glacier — Air Castles — Climbing to the Col — Dark Ice Caverns — Mountain Sickness — Grandeur of the Rock- Precipices on Mount lefroy — Summit of the Col at Last — A Glorious Vision of a Arew and Beautiful Valley — A Temple of Nature — Sudden Change of Weather— Temptation to Explore the New Valley— A Precip itate Descent — Sudden Transition from Arctic to Temperate Conditions — Delightful Surroundings — Weary Followers— Overtaken by Night — A Bivouac in t/ie Forest — Fire in the Forest — Indian Sarcasm, 84-100

Chapter VII

The Wild Character of Paradise Valley— Difficulties with Pack- Horscs—A Remarkable Accident— Our Camp and Surroundings— Animal Contents. VII Friends — Midsummer Flowers — Desolation Valley — Ascent of Hazel Peak — An Alpine Lake in a Basin of Lee — First Attempt to Scale Mount Temple — Our Camp by a Small Lake — A W ill and Stormy Night — An Impassable Barrier — A Scene of Utter Desolation — All Nature Sleeps — Difficulties of Ascent — The Highest Point yet Reached in Canada — Paradise Valley in Wintei — Farewell to Lake Louise ...... 101-118

Chapter VIII

The Sclkirks — Geographical Position of the Range — Good Cheer of the Glacier House — Charming Situation — Comparison between the Selkirks and Rockies — Early Mountain Ascents — Density of the Forest — Ascent of Eagle Peak — A Magnificent Panorama — A Descent in the Darkness — Account of a Terrible Experience on Eagle Peak — Trails through the Forest — Future Popularity of the Selkirks — The Forest Primei'al — An Epitome of Human Life — Age of Trees — Forests Dependent on Humidity . . ....... 1 19-136

Chapter IX

Mount Assiniboine — Preparations for Visiting it— Camp at Heely's Creek— Crossing the Simpson Pass — Shoot a Pack- Hor se— A Delightful Camp — A Difficult Snow Pass — Burnt Timber — Nature Sounds — Dis covery of a Beautiful Lake — Inspiring View of Mount Assiniboine — Our Camp at the Base of the Mountain — Summer Snow-Storms — Inaccessibility of Mount Assiniboine ...... 137-157

Chapter X

Evidence of Game — Discovery of a Mountain Goat — A Long Hunt — A Critical Moment — A Terrible Fall — An Unpleasant Experience — Habitat of the Mountain Goat — A Change of Weather — A Magnificent Panorama— Set out to Explore the M, uutaiu— Intense Heat of a Forest Fire — Struggling with Burnt Timber — A Mountain Bivouac — Hope and Despair — Success at Last — Short Rations — Topography of Mount Assini boine — The Vermilion River — A Wonderful Canyon — Fording the Boiv River 158-182 Contents. VIII

Chapter XI

The Waputehk Range— Height of the Mountains— Vast Snow Fields and Glaciers — Journey up the Bow — Home of a Prospector — Causes and Frequency of Forest Fires— A Visit to the Lower Bow Lake— Muskegs — A Mountain Flooded with Ice— Delightful Scenes at the Upper Bow Lake — Beauty of the Shores — Lake Trout — The Great Bow Glacier 183-204

Chapter XII

Sources of the Bow— The Little Fork Pass — Magnificence of the Scenery— Mount Murchison — Camp on the Divide— A High Mountain Ascent — Future of the Bow Lakes — Return down the Bow — Search for a Pass— Remarkable Agility of Pack- Horses — The "Bay" and the "Pinto" — Mountain Solitudes — Mount Hector — Difficult Nature of Johnston Creek — A Blinding Snow- Storm — Forty- Mile Creek — Mount Edith Pass 205-219

Chapter XIII. Historical

Origin and Rise of the Fur Trade — I he Coureurs des Bois and the Voyageurs — Perils of the Canoe Voyages — The Hudson Bay Company and the Northwest Company — Intense Rivalry — Downfall of the Northwest Company — Sir Alexander Mackenzie — His Character and Physical En dowments — Cook ' s Explorations — Mackenzie Starts to Penetrate the Rockies — The Peace River — A Marvellous Escape — The Pacific Reached by Land — Perils of the Sea and of the Wilderness . . . 220-236

Chapter XIV. Historical

Captain Cook's Explorations — The American Fur Company — First Exploration of the Fraser River — Expedition of Ross Cox— Cannibalism — Simplicity of a Voyageur — Sir George Simpson's Journey — Discovery Contents. IX of Gold in i8j8 — The Palliser Expedition — Dr. Hector's Adventures — Milton and Cheadle — Growth of the Dominion— Railroad Surveys — Construction of the Railroad — Historical Periods — Future Popularity of the Canadian Rockies ....... 237-257

Chapter XV

The Pleasures of the Natural Sciences — Interior of the Earth — Thickness of the Crust — Origin and Cause of Mountains — Their Age and Slow Growth — System in Mountain Arrangement — The Cordilleran Sys tem — The Canadian Rockies — Comparison with Other Mountain Regions — Climate — Cause of Chinook Winds — Effect of High Latitude on Sun and Moon — Principal Game Animals — Nature of the Forests — Mountain Lakes — Camp Experiences— Effect on the Character . . 258-275 277-283 Index FULL-PAGE PHOTOGRAVURES PAGE Mount Assiniboixe Frontispiece Banff Sprixgs Hotei 4 Bow River and Cascade Mountain . . . . io Lake Louise 18 Mount Lefroy and Mirror Lake .... 38 Lake Agnes (in early juiy, i8Q5) ...... 42 TOM CHINIQUV (By courtesy of Mr. S. B. Thompson, New Westminster, B. C ) . 50 Mount Temple, from the Saddle .... 78 Discovery of Paradise Valley 92 Camp in Paradise Valley 108 Mount Sir Donald, from Eagle Peak . . .126 Head of Rocky Mountain Sheep . . . .132 North Lake 152 Summit Lake, near Mount Assiniboine . . . 154 Head of Rocky Mountain Goat cshotjuiy 18,189*0 . . 164 THE WAPUTEHK RANGE (Looking across the range from near Hector) - I 84 Full-Page Photogravures.

XII PAGE Mount Daly l92 Upper Bow Lake (Looking east) 19° Upper Bow Lake (Looking west) 200 Source of the Little Fork of the Saskatchewan River 206 Storm in Little Fork Valley 208 Mount Hector and Slate Mountains (From summit of a mountain near Little Fork Pass, 10,125 feet in altitude) . 2 IO Camp at Little Fork Pass 212 Upper Bow Lake (Looking south) 270 Emerald Lake and Mount Field .... ILLUSTRATIONS IN THE TEXT. PAGE Rundle Mountain and Bow River . . . 15 Lake Louise (Looking toward chalet) . . . . . .31 Anemones 40 A Cool Retreat in the Forest 75 Summit of Mount Temple 115 Glacier House 120 Peyto 140 Packing the Buckskin 142 Calypso 143 Approacfiing the Pass 149 NORTH LAKE (Looking northwest) . . . . . .157 Haunt of the Mountain Goat 165 Mount Assintboine (From northwest) 167 Lake on Vermilion Pass 181 Ready to March 186 Camp at Upper Bow Lake 202 The " Bay " . . . * 214 Falls of Leanchoil 249 Xlll CAMPING IN THE CANADIAN ROCKIES.

Chapter I

Banff — Its Location — The Village — Tourists — Hotels — Topography of the Region — Rundle and Cascade Mountains — The Devil's Lake — Sir George Simpson's Journey to this Region — Peechee the Indian Guide — An Indian Legend — The Missionary Rundle— Dr. Hector — The Climate of Banff— A Summer Snoio-Storm — The Mountains in Winter. THE principal resort of tourists and sportsmen in the Rocky Mountains of Canada is Banff. The location of the town or village of Banff might be briefly described as being just within the eastern-most range of the Rocky Mountains, about one hundred and fifty miles north of the International boundary, or where the Canadian Pacific Railway begins to pierce the com plex system of mountains which continue from this point westward to the Pacific coast. Banff is likewise the central or focal point of the Canadian National Park.

There is so much of scenic interest and natural beauty in the surrounding mountains and valleys, that an area of some two hundred and sixty i square miles has been reserved in this region by the government and laid out with fine roads and bridle-paths to points of special interest. Order is enforced by a body of men known as the Northwest Mounted Police, a detach ment of which is stationed at Banff. This organization has been wonderfully effective for many years past in preserving the authority of the laws throughout the vast extent of northwestern Canada by means of a number of men that seems altogether insufficient for that purpose. The small and scattered village of Banff occupies a flat plain near the Bow River. This large stream, the south branch of the Saskatchewan, one of the greatest rivers of North America, is at this point not only deep and swift but fully one hundred yards in width.

A fine iron bridge spans the river and leads to the various hotels all of which are south of the village. The permanent population numbers some half thousand, while the various stores, dwellings, and churches have a general air of neat ness and by their new appearance suggest the fact that the history of Banff extends back only one decade. During the summer season, the permanent population of Banff is sometimes nearly doubled by a great invasion of tourists and travellers from far distant regions. Over land tourists from India, China, Ceylon, and England, the various countries of Europe and the Dominion of Canada, but chiefly from the United States, form the greater part of this cosmopolitan assemblage, in which, however, almost every part of the globe is occasionally represented. Some are bent on sport with rod or gun ; others on Tourists. 3 mountaineering or camping expeditions, but the great majority are en route to distant countries and make Banff a stopping-place for a short period.

Arrived at Banff, the traveller is confronted by a line of hack drivers and hotel employes shouting in loud voices the names and praises of their various hotels. Such sights and sounds are a blessed relief to the tourist, who for several days has witnessed nothing but the boundless plains and scanty population of northwestern Canada. The chorus of rival voices seems almost a wel come back to civilization, and reminds one in a mild degree of some railroad station in a great metropolis. On the contrary, the new arrival finds, as he is whirled rapidly toward his hotel in the coach, that he is in a mere country village surrounded on all sides by high mountains, with here and there patches of perpetual snow near their lofty summits. Though the surrounding region, the adjacent mountains, and valleys represent nature in a wild and almost primitive state, one may remain at Banff attended by all the comforts of civilization.

The several hotels occupy more or less scattered points in the valley south from the village. The one built and managed by the railroad stands apart from the village on an eminence overlooking the Bow River. It is a magnificent structure capable of accommodating a large number of guests. From the verandas and porches one may obtain a fine panoramic view of the surrounding mountains, and on the side towards the river the view combines water, forest, and mountain scenery in a most pleasing manner. The Bow River, some three hundred feet below, comes in from the left and dashes in a snowy cascade through a rocky gorge, then, sweeping away towards the east, is joined by the Spray River, a mad mountain torrent deep and swift, but clear as crystal, and with cold water of that deep blue color indicating its mountain origin.

The wonderful rapidity with which these mountain streams flow is a source of astonishment and wonder to those familiar only with the sluggish rivers of lowland regions. Standing on the lit tle iron bridge which carries the road across the stream and lookine down on the water, I have often imagined I was at the stern of an ocean greyhound, so rapidly does each ripple or inequality sweep under and away from the eye. Though the water is less than a yard in depth, the current moves under the bridge at the rate of from nine to ten miles an hour. The best point from which to get a good general idea of the topography of Banff and its surroundings is from the summit of a little hill known as Tunnel Mountain. It is centrally located in the wide valley of the Bow, above which it rises exactly 1000 feet, an altitude great enough to make it appear a high mountain were it not dwarfed by its mighty neighbors.

The view from the summit is not of exceeding grandeur, but is well worth the labor of the climb, especially as a good path, with occasional seats for the weary, makes the walk an easy one. The top of the mountain is still far below the tree line, though the earth is too thin to nourish a rich forest. The soil was Banff Springs Hotel. View from Tunnel Mountain. 5 all carried away in the Ice Age, for there are abundant proofs that this mountain was once flooded by a glacier coming down the Bow valley. The bare limestone of the summit is grooved in great channels pointing straight up the Bow valley. In some places scratches made by the ice are visible, and there are many quartz boulders strewed about which have been carried here from some distant region. The meandering course of the Bow River, the village, the hay meadows and grassy swamps, all form a pretty picture in the flat valley below.

The eastern face of Tunnel Mountain is wellnigh perpendicular. The trail leads along near the summit and allows thrilling views down the sheer precipice to the flat valley of the Bow River far below. The trees and prominent objects of the landscape seem like toys, and the adjacent plains resemble a colored map. There are no houses or dwellings in view on this side, but a drove of horses grazing contentedly in a pasture near the river, awaiting their turn to be sent out into the mountains in the pack train of some sportsman or mountaineer, gives life and animation to the scene. On either side are two high mountains, conspicuous by their unusual outlines and great altitude. The one to the south is Rundle Mountain. It rises in a great curving slope on its west side, and terminates in a rugged escarp ment with precipitous cliffs to the east, which tower in wonderful grandeur more than 5000 feet above the flood plains of the Bow River near its base.

On the opposite side is Cascade Mountain, which is remarkable in being of almost identical height, and is in fact just two feet lower, as determined by the topographi cal survey. The name of this mountain was given by reason of a large stream which falls from ledge to ledge down the cliffs of its eastern face in a beautiful cascade. Both this and Rundle Mountain are composed of the old Devonian and Carboniferous limestones, the strata of which are plainly visible. The structure is that of a great arch or anticline which has been completely over turned, so that the older beds are above the newer. Several miles towards the east, the end of Devil's Lake may be seen appearing through a notch in the mountains. A fine road nine miles in length has been made to this lake and is one of the most popular drives in the vicinity of Banff.

The lake is very long and narrow, about nine miles in length by three fourths of a mile in extreme breadth. The scenery is grand, but rather desolate, as the bare mountain walls on either side of the lake are not relieved by forests or abundant vegetation of any kind. The lake is, however, a great resort for sportsmen as it abounds in large trout, of which one taken last year weighed thirty-four pounds. The name of the lake gives illustration of the tendency among savages and civilized people to dedicate prominent objects of nature to the infernal regions or the master spirit thereof. There is no apparent limit to the number of places named after the Devil and his realm, while the names suggested by more congenial places are conspicuous by their absence. The original name, Lake Peechee, was given by Sir George Simpson in honor of his guide.

Sir George Simpson. 7 The scattered threads of history which relate to this part of the Rocky Mountains are suggested by these names and indeed this lake has an unusual interest for this reason. In a region where explorations have been very few and far between, and where only the vague traditions of warlike events among the Indians form a great part of the history, each fragment and detail set forth by the old explorers acquires an increased interest. Previous to the arrival of the railroad surveyors, the chief men on whom our attention centres are Sir George Simpson, Mr. Rundle, and Dr. Hector. The expedition of Sir George Simpson possesses much of interest in every way. He claims to have been the first man to accomplish an overland journey around the world from east to west. After having traversed the greater part of the continent of North America, he entered the stupendous gates of the Rocky Mountains in the autumn of 1 84 1.

He travelled with wonderful rapidity, and was wont to cover from twenty to sixty miles a day, according to the nature of the country. His outfit consisted of a large band of horses, about forty-five in number, attended by cooks and packers sufficient for the needs of this great expedition. Nevertheless the long cavalcade of animals, when spread out in Indian file along the narrow trails were difficult to manage, and it not infrequently happened that on reaching camp several horses proved to be missing, a fact which would necessitate some of the men returning fifteen or twenty miles in search of them. Passine to the south of the Devil's Head, a remarkable and conspicuous mountain which may be recognized far out on the plains, Sir George Simpson entered the valley occupied by the lake. In this part of his journey he was guided by a half-breed Indian named Peechee, a chief of the Mountain Crees.

Peechee lived with his wife and family on the borders of this lake, and Simpson named it after him, a name, however, which never gained currency. Dr. Dawson transferred the name to a high mountain south of the lake, and substituted the Indian name of Minnewanka, or in English, Devil's Lake. The guide Peechee seems to have possessed much influence among; his fellows, and whenever, as was often the case, the Indians gathered around their camp-fires and gossiped about their adventures, Peechee was listened to with the closest attention on the part of all. Nothing more delights the Indians than to indulge their passion for idle talk when assembled together, especially when under the soothing and peaceful influence of tobacco, — a fact that seems strange indeed to those who see them only among strangers, where they are wont to be remarkably silent.

A circumstance of Indian history connected with the east end of the lake is mentioned by Sir George Simpson, and admirably illustrates the nature of savage warfare. A Cree and his wife, a short time previously, had been tracked and pursued by five Indians of a hostile tribe into the mountains to a point near the lake. At length they were espied and attacked by their pursuers. Terrified by the fear of almost certain death, the Cree advised his wife An Indian Legend. 9 to submit without defending herself. She, however, was possessed of a more courageous spirit, and replied that as they were young and had but one life to lose they had better put forth every effort in self-defence. Accordingly she raised her rifle and brought down the foremost warrior with a well aimed shot. Her husband was now impelled by desperation and shame to join the contest, and mor tally wounded two of the advancing foe with arrows.

There were now but two on each side. The fourth war rior had, however, by this time reached the Cree's wife and with upraised tomahawk was on the point of cleaving her head, when his foot caught in some inequality of the ground and he fell prostrate. With lightning stroke the undaunted woman buried her dagger in his side. Dis mayed by this unexpected slaughter of his companions, the fifth Indian took to flight after wounding the Cree in his arm. Rundle Mountain, which has been already mentioned and which forms one of the most striking mountains in the vicinity of Banff, is named after a Wesleyan missionary who for many years carrried on his pious labors among the Indians in the vicinity of Edmonton. Mr. Rundle once visited this region and remained camped for a considerable time near the base of Cascade Mountain, probably shortly after Sir George Simpson explored this region.

The work of Mr. Rundle among the Indians appears to have been highly successful, if one may judge by the present condition of the Stoneys, who are honest, truthful, and but little given to the vices of civilization. Even to this day the visitor may see them at Banff dressed in partly civilized, partly savage attire, or on rare occasions decked out in all the feathers and beaded belts and moccasins that go to make up the sum total of savage splendor. Our attention comes at last to Dr. Hector, who was connected with the Palliser expedition. It is exceed ingly unfortunate that the blue-book in which the vast amount of useful information and interesting adventure connected with this expedition is so clearly set forth should be now almost out of print. There are no available copies in the United States or Canada and but very few otherwise accessible.

Dr. Hector followed up the Bow River and passed the region now occupied by Banff in the year 1858. He was accompanied by the perse vering and ever popular botanist, Bourgeau. Under the magic spell of close observation and clear description, the most commonplace affairs assume an unusual interest in all of Dr. Hector's reports. It is very evident that game was much more abundant in those early days than at present. For instance, Dr. Hector's men shot two mountain sheep near the falls of the Bow River, which are but a few minutes' walk from the hotel. Likewise when making a partial ascent of the Cascade Mountain, Dr. Hector came on a large herd of these noble animals, con cerning which so many fabulous tales of their daring leaps down awful precipices have been told. He also mentions an interestingfact about the death of a mountain eoat.

An Indian had shot a goat when far up on the slope of Bow River and Cascade Mountain. The Climate of Banff. 11 Cascade Mountain, but the animal, though badly wounded, managed to work its way around to some inaccessible cliffs near the cascade. Here the poor animal lingered for seven days with no less than five bullets in its body, till at length death came and it fell headlong down the precipice. The climate of Banff during the months of July and August is almost perfection. The high altitude of 4500 feet above the sea-level renders the nights invariably cool and pleasant, while the mid-day heat rarely reaches 8o° in the shade. There is but little rain during this period and in fact there are but two drawbacks, — mosquitoes and forest-fire smoke. The mosquitoes, however, are only troublesome in the deep woods or by the swampy tracts near the river.

The smoke from forest fires frequently becomes so thick as to obscure the mountains and veil them in a yellow pall through which the sun shines with a weird light. An effect of the high northern latitude of this part of the Rocky Mountains is to make the summer days very long. In June and early July the sun does not set till nine o'clock, and the twilight is so bright that fine print can be read out doors till eleven o'clock, and in fact there is more or less light at midnight. In June and September one never knows what to expect in the way of weather. I shall give two examples which will set forth the possibilities of these months, thouo-h one must not imagine that they illustrate the ordinary course of events. In the summer of 1895, after having suffered from a long period of intensely hot weather in the east, I arrived at Banff on the 14th of June.