A Trip to South Africa

Front matter

A TRIP TO SOUTH AFRICA. R TRIP TO SOUTH AFRICA BY JAMES SALTER- WHITER, F.R.H.S. SUTTON, SURREY : WILLIAM PILE, 26, HIGH STREET. 1892. AU rights reserved. SUTTON, SURREY. WILLIAM PILE, 26, HIGH STREET. 1892. ZDIEZDIC^LTIOILSr. In grateful acknowledgment to my many South African friends, whose courtesy, generous hospitality and warmhearted friendship have for ever endeared them to me, I dedicate this account of my ex periences in the Colony, with the earnest wish that it may be of service as a hand-book to intending visitors, and also a means, in however small a degree, of encouraging a closer relationship and reciprocity between the Mother Country and the Colony in our mutual ambitions, sympathies, com merce, and interests. J. SALTER-WHITER Wallington, July 14th, 1892. if IR, IE3 IF -A. O E - In the following pages Mr. Salter-Whiter has described his recent visit to the Cape in a manner that cannot but be of value.

Starting from his own home he describes each incident of the journey, and points out the evils to be avoided and the advantages to be secured. He sees clearly the dangers of the coast land at the Cape and the remarkable virtue of the Karoo district. He shews the value of sunshine, dry air, and elevation in securing arrest, even in cases of advanced disease, and in Chapter XV., on 'Health,' he sketches out a route likely to be of essential service to many. The course pursued must vary in different cases, but the advantages of beginning with Wynberg, then going to Ceres, Matjesfontein, and Bloemfontein, are clearly exhibited. The information is up to date, and in a country which is advancing so rapidly, this is a matter of no little moment. The charms of the voyage and of the South African Colonies make a holiday trip to the Cape a delightful one, alike to the pleasure seeker and the invalid.

Those who are fired, by the perusal of this book, with the desire to test for themselves the virtues of the climate, are not likely to regret their decision. The observations of the Author, on the climates of South Africa, are of especial value, his naturally acute perceptions being rendered the more keen because he was, at the time of the trip, himself suffering from chest delicacy. E. SYMES THOMPSON. GOICNTTIEItTTS . PAGE Dedication ...... v. Preface ....... vi. I. From London to South Africa . . . 1 II. Cape Town 25 III. Cape Politics ...... 45 IV. The Commerce of Cape Town . . .58 V. Matjesfontein ...... 77 VI. Kimberley . . . . . - . 98 VII. Work and Wages 124 VIII. Bloemfontein ...... 127 IX. Port Elizabeth . . . . . .151 X. Grahamstown ...... 158 XL East London 170 XII. King William's Town and the Native Question . . . . . .177 XIII.

Chapter I

From London to South Africa. k «, rail HAT a change ? From the land of clouds, fogs, i&yi)M« cold and wet, to the land of gold, diamonds, IftBlsAffra cloudless skies, warmth, and clear, exhilarating atmosphere. It seems almost incredible that these 5,979 miles can be spanned in the comparatively short space of time of some eighteen or twenty days, and even this record has been beaten by the magnificent new ocean steamer belonging to the Union Steamship Company, The Scot, a vessel of 6,844 tons and 1,200 horse power, which has accomplished the distance in fourteen days, fifteen hours, sixteen minutes. Such a journey need give no cause for anxiety, even to the most nervous of travellers. It was on the last day of October that we started from our dear little hamlet of Wallington, accompanied by many friends, whose kindness and affection would not be satisfied by merely saying "Good-bye" at Wallington Station, but urged them to make the journey to Waterloo or Southampton, and see us fairly on our voyage, at, I am sure, great personal B inconvenience, thus doing all in their power to start us with a heartfelt " God speed."

Who amongst the most sensitive of us can estimate or fathom the value of true unselfish friendship ? Happy indeed is any man who has been able to gain and retain that closest tie between heart and heart, spirit and spirit. Friendship is not a passing emotion, but a beam of heavenly light, coming naked from the ineffable love of the Creator of all good, striking the soul of man and waking up the latent cords of the heart's true lyre into a glorious harmony of affection, strains of self-abnegation, and chords of personal denial. It is an essence that evokes the highest nobility of man's character, and stimulates the moral courage in times of need to the most heroic actions. Beside friendship, all the petty spurious imitations of the same, known by the terms of "self-interest," and mere "passing acquaintance," fade away and show their hollow, phantom-like durability.

Give me the friend whose temper can ride superior to the lower aims of mankind, who cannot, and will not, be offended by any of the many provocations and mis understandings that must arise at some period or other in our intercourse, and in such an one, my lasting respect and regard shall find a safe harbour from the outside storms of daily life. Arrived at Waterloo station, what a motley crowd we find upon the platform waiting for the 11.40 special mail train, which is to convey us to Southampton, and which we reach in a little over two hours. Here we find a crowd of Salvation Army captains, generals, marshals, and I know not how many other high sounding titles, with a score of hallelujah lasses, come to say their last good-byes to some eight or nine " captains," male and female, who are striving to awaken the souls of the Fingoes and Kaffirs to a knowledge of their spiritual life, of which at present I am informed they are altogether ignorant.

We were intensely relieved to find they carried no firearms or large heavy ordnance in the shape of big drums, concertinas, and trombones — I suppose the Kaffirs must be good hands at making a big noise themselves, so that this kind of powder and shot would " not take " in South Africa. At Waterloo Station, to our surprise, we found a good contingent of our many Wallington friends, whose hearty good wishes and warm kindness greatly cheered us after parting with our nearest and dearest at home. Some of these joined us on our journey, and through the courtesy of the stationmaster, a large comfortable saloon was put on the train to carry us en fam.il e to our first destination. Amid the hearty cheers, and firm hand-grasps and loud fire from the Salvationists, we steamed out of the station in anticipation of a happy and comfortable voyage.

Arrived at Southampton a steam tender carries us to the side of the splendid steamship Mexican, 4,549 tons, one of the Union Steamship Company's boats, and commanded by one of the most affable and courteous captains afloat, Captain G. Larmer, with whom I had personal acquaintance on my return from Madeira in February last, when I was so extremely fortunate as to sail in his ship. As most people know, the comfort and pleasure of the passengers depends in a very large measure upon the character and temper of the commander, and I cheerfully bear my unqualified testimony to the great courtesy and consideration this gentleman shows to all his passengers, not only to the swells of the first-class saloon, but equally to the second and third-class passengers. To a very great degree the whole of our pleasure on board ship is due to his exertions for our comfort and amusement.

Once on board we find the deck in a great turmoil, luggage and passengers fairly well mixed up in a heap, some trying to find their cabin baggage, vain efforts, if they only knew how much trouble they could spare themselves. All one has to do is to give one's name to the steward, and after the ship starts he will speedily find the luggage as easily as a pointer finds a partridge, and carry it to your berth, without the least fear of its going astray. In the saloon we find luncheon ready for ourselves and friends, who on this occasion are the free guests of the Union Company. Having attended to the wants of the inner man, and joined the well-known "self admiration society," by toasting each other in champagne, our friends prepare to say the last farewell and rejoin the tender which takes them ashore.

The mails are on board, and the ringing voice of the first officer sounds ' ' any more for the shore." One more hearty grasp of the hand and our friends, who have come so far to try and cheer us on our way, are gone. A shiver from stem to stern tells us the ship is moving on her long voyage, and we bid good-bye to dear old England, and the still dearer ones it protects, with the fervent prayer that the primary object of our voyage — " health " — may be obtained. At seven o'clock dinner is served, but it has not reached two courses before, one by one, the passengers deem it the better part of valour to "retire." One begins to sympathise, and spoils one's appetite. To my great regret my young friend, w7ho has been advised to take this trip for the same reason as I, and to whom I stand for the time being in the relationship of foster father, also has to retire to the solitude, and I am sorry to say the misery, of his cabin.

Oh ! that wretched mal de mer ; truly only those w7ho experience it can realise what it means. Personally, I have never known what it is to be sea-sick, but I have suffered almost as much in observing the tortures endured by my fellow travellers. This voyage I have had a fair experience of this in tending my young protege for four days, and do not think I have ever seen anyone so hors de combat. At the same time I was proud that he forced the admiration of all the officers for the manly and plucky way in w7hich he tried to master the elements. The worst feature of this wretched weakness is that there is absolutely no cure or means of alleviation of its terrors. The only advice I can give to all who suffer is to take corrective medicine three days before leaving home, to feed well, and get the system in as strong a condition possible.

A couple of lemons taken an hour before embarkation is the only possible preventive antidote to this tantalising sickness. By dint of persuasion, I managed to induce my charge to eat all he could, and on the fifth day the nourishment partaken had the desired result of once more placing him on his " sea legs," and on the sixth day he was quite a man •igain. After all there is one consolation — it is an invariable rule that those who are sea-sick always derive most benefit from a sea voyage. After dinner darkness had fairly set in, and a keen easterly wind did not invite passengers to leave the comfortable and magnificent saloon with which the ship is furnished. The first-class saloon on the Mexican is one of the chief features and attractions of the ship, and is certainly one of the finest apartments on any vessel afloat, accommodating upwards of one hundred guests without crowding.

Having an hour or two spare time before " turning in," let the reader accompany me in an inspection of one of these " floating palaces" of the ocean, for in the year of grace 1891, these splendid steamers of the Union Steamship Company are certainly " palaces " in every sense of the word. The ship is rigged as a three-masted schooner, but the sails she carries are never used excepting as a means of steadying the vessel in a heavy sea or swrell. She is on the Admiralty list as a possible armed cruiser to start in quest of enemy's merchantmen, or for convoying, and is, of course, built in watertight compartments. This ship may be described as a splendid sea boat, steady at sea and honestly built, and is one of the best arranged and most commodious passenger ships afloat. Above the saloon we have the ladies' saloon and music room, a beautiful compartment, with a second room for the exclusive use of ladies only, fitted with luxurious couches, a boon greatly valued by the delicate, as they are able to rest and recline above deck perfectly sheltered from the wind, and yet enjoy the fresh sea air without draught.

Leaving the saloon towards the stern we find a spacious quarter-deck, well protected from the wind and spray by high bulwarks, a capital place for promenade, cricket, quoits, and other games, freely indulged in by " Young England. " Forwards from the saloon we have two alley-ways, containing the bar, and pantries, the officers' berths, state rooms, and lavatories, but I should not recommend anyone to take one of these deck state-rooms, as the heat and noise of the engines, which occupy the middle space, are not calculated to entice Morpheus to pour down gentle sleep on the tired and weary traveller. Quite forward we find the first-class smoking room. A capital one it is, too, lined with white marble, which makes it one of the coolest spots in the tropics, through which we are presently to pass.

We then emerge on to a spacious forecastle, pronounced, if you please, " foke'sel " (always give the nautical terms, though you " 'aint no sailor bold, and never was upon the sea "). Here are congregated the second and third class passengers, with our friends the Salvationists, to whom I must bear the testimony that they did all in their power to enhance the pleasure and well-being of their fellow passengers. Services were held by them at intervals, and were conducted in a far superior and preferable manner to what has recently been witnessed at Eastbourne. To their honour, be it said, they have not prostituted religion to a comedy, nor have they made it aggressive, a fault to my mind which spoils and mars much of the good work they are nobly endeavouring to do. Above the saloon, engine rooms, and domestic offices, we have a fine hurricane deck, from which a view of the whole ship and many miles to seaward can be obtained.

Below the main deck we have the lower deck with the sleeping accommodation and bath rooms. Each cabin is fitted with two berths, one placed above the other, like shelves in a cupboard, and I regret to say, for long legs like mine exceedingly uncomfortable. One always wishes that one's legs were telescopic, so that they might be shut up, and give more play to the head and feet with the rolling and pitching of the ship. I assure you it is not a " happy " feeling to find your head going through the hard wood panel of your bunk one moment, and the next to find your feet inclined to make a dangerous aperture in the woodwork just above your next-door neighbour's cranium. Such things are not to be called the comfort of a voyage. Each cabin is fitted with a miniature toilet table and washstand combined, a marvel of multum in parco.

Then for the baths on board. Conveniently situate close to one's cabin, there is every 'inducement to indulge in a plentiful use of aqua pura. What a blessing is a cold tub on board ship. How capitally salt water and breakfast go together ; they make a new man of one. Invigorating and appetising, if not " grateful and comforting ;" and these are baths on the Mexican in every sense of the word. Built of white marble slabs, six feet six inches long by four feet wide, one can plunge and splash to one's heart's content, without fear of spoiling the finery and useless ornamental objects usually contained in our private English bath-rooms. We take a turn round the ship to the smoking-room, smoke the pipe of peace with our fellows, commence, perhaps, a personal friendship, or only a passing acquaintance — who can tell which ? — with those with whom for the first time w7e hold converse, and then turn in for the night.

What a comfort to find a really comfortable bed after an exciting and tiring day. The berth is fitted with every convenience, including electric fight, which you switch on and off yourself. Softly resigning yourself to the god of sleep, the thump, thump of the engines gradually fits in with your dreams, you fall asleep and are happy. Sunday morning breaks rather cold and rough. The attendance at breakfast is very thin, and suggestive of the presence of that bete noir mod, de mer. At half -past ten the ship's crew is mustered on the quarter deck for inspection by the captain, and after the roll call, dismissed to attend Divine service in the saloon a few minutes later ; hence service at sea is rendered the more impressive, and it is in general observed only by those who have a worthy desire to dedicate the short hour to the honour of their Creator.

What an impressive service it is. None but those who have attended such an one can imagine the force with which the special prayer appointed for those at sea is brought home to the worshippers, read in a beautiful reverent manner by our gallant captain. The grand, dear old flag of old England, the Union Jack, formed the reading desk, and carried the mind back to those in our own country, who at the same time and hour join us in our petitions to the Giver of all good. It speaks well for the example set by all the officers to their men, for there were at least fifty of them at this our first Sunday's service. Life on board ship is a capital place to study the various phases of human nature. What a conglomeration of mankind is to be found on these ocean steamers, and how soon our class prejudices are swept away by the cosmopolitan character of our fellow passengers.

It is a motley crew which assembles here, drawn together into the small space of this floating Noah's ark, with nothing in common but the wish to get to South Africa. We have the sportsman off to shoot big game in the Transvaal, and to see if he can find Lord Randolph's lions. What ! says he, seven lions and lionesses together at once ! Such a thing has seldom, very seldom been heard of, for the gentlemen of the party w7ould probably fall out as to the comparative merits of the fair sex, and claw one another until none remained to shew evidence of the struggle. A lion and lioness with their cubs, yes, but seven full grown animals in peaceful harmony. They might have been cows, for cows in South Africa are dun coloured, and do run uncommonly fast. I do not take the responsibility for the value of the argument, but I have heard it advanced very frequently.

Then we have an eminent prospector of gold mines, who is certainly a past master in geology. Consumptives and delicate ladies are also present, seeking a kindlier clime where the clear dry air of South Africa will take the hectic liush out of his or her cheek, and tan it with the glow of quickly circulating health. There is also the young man with a university education and degree as his stock-in trade, off to join the Cape Mounted Rifles. There is also the earnest and ideal young colonist, off to carve out a fortune by dint of his small but sufficient capital, his ow*n strong arm, and thorough British dogged perseverence. God speed him, for it is such as he that have built up our glorious Greater Britain beyond the seas, and poured their increasing w7ealth into the old country. How I wish men like Mr. Labouchere, who are always clamouring for scuttling out of our colonies and giving them absolute independence, would only take a journey to the " land of gold and diamonds," and see with their own eyes, the piles of wealth these colonies are ever adding to the commonwealth of the empire.

Our colonies ! why they have done more for the welfare of our working classes than all these gassy politicians ever dreamt of. Do the latter ever consider the number of looms and foundries of all kinds kept constantly employed to supply the wants of our colonies only '? Let them study the manifest of cargo carried by the various ships every week, and most of these goods made by British workmen, who, but for our colonial empire, would speedily join the army of the unemployed. Then we have several Cape merchants, who are returning, after a few months' holiday in the old country, combining business with pleasure. What a fund of information they are able to give to one like myself, who is seeking to know our South African cousins, and their manners, as they truly are, and not as they have, I begin to think, been falsely pictured ; at any rate I can speak for those whom the kind fates have sent aboard this ship to instruct what a great man calls "an open mind."

Those with us are mostly engaged in the whole sale dry goods trade, with branch houses in the important business centres of Cape Colony, Orange Free State, Natal, Transvaal, and even Mashonaland and British Bechuanaland. Thanks to the cordial invitations they have given me, I hope to write you a truthful picture as to the impressions this rich country makes upon one who is unbiased by politics, or any other interests, save those of truth. I wish to portray the " Afrikander " as he is ; for I fear, clever man as he undoubtedly is, Lord Randolph Churchill has allowed his judgment to run riot, and all the colonists I have met feel very sore over what they call " the gross injustice of his unfounded strictures ;" and even our own people say his remarks, touching the Boers of the Transvaal, have called forth a loud cry of indignant denial from all the many races of South Africa.

Last, but not least, upon our passenger list, are the children, and we have a large number of them in the first class. Leaning over the rail of the music-room I look down upon as pretty a scene as I ever witnessed. Above me was the handsome domed skylight, beneath me on the main deck there was a table at which a number of children — some thirty or more — with their nurses, were eating. It was a heavy day, the wind was on the eastern or port quarter, and a long high swell ; the water was sapphire blue in places, marbled with white foam, and the sun shone out brilliantly, at times, on the curling restless crests of the waves, and upon the large skylight under which I stood looking down on a charming nursery scene. The children, of all ages and sizes, from the infant in arms to the man (as he thinks himself) of seven summers, all variously and prettily dressed ; the sunshine fell upon sweet faces and golden curls, and through the ceaseless roars of the elements, the straining, groaning, grinding and pulsing of the engine, and the rattle of the steering gear, you could hear the music of the happy children's laughter.

Those rows of bright and merry little faces communicated an inexpressible human interest to as much of the picture of the ship as I commanded from the spot where I stood. The children and their companions came and went dimly and brightly with the reeling of the ship. It was more like a vision than a reality — " a poem in the heart of the storming steamer. ' ' We certainly did get a slight dusting in the Bay of Biscay, but after leaving Finisterre we found the sea much heavier than in the Bay. There had evidently been some large area of storm winds right away to the westward of the Atlantic, which gave us the benefit of a long, regular swell, gently tipped with pure white crests of foam. These rollers came like a regiment of soldiers in regular order on our beam, causing the ship to lurch heavily first to port and then to starboard, the effects of which were disastrous to our suffering passengers, though very enjoyable for some of the more robust, who amused themselves by singing songs at the further end of the ship, where the full motion of the waves could be best experienced.

These heavy seas continued for the rest of the journey to Madeira, where we arrived on Wednesday evening at half-past five o'clock. Having received an invitation to dine with some old friends on shore, and the announcement having been posted up on the ship that passengers were at liberty to go ashore until ten p.m., we took a boat, and once more made acquaintance with this lovely island. Madeira has been so w7ell written up that there remains but little to record. The green and beautiful island is a noble refreshment to the sight after the tedious and tossing days of a stormy passage. It has with truth been called an oasis in the midst of a waste of waters, but I think a better description would be " The garden of Eden transplanted." A more lovely marine view than the first sight of Madeira from the deck of a ship, is not to be obtained anywiiere.

From the anchorage the Island lies like a painting before you, the mountains gradually rising from the very sea shore up to a height of six thousand feet, covered almost to their summits with verdure and forests, strongly suggestive of some of the finest parts of Switzerland. The towering peaks have nothing forbidding in their elevation ; the vapour in soft masses wreathes itself like garlands of snow about the heads of the mountains. The atmosphere is beautifully clear and dry ; the w7hite houses, dwarfed by distance, shine like ivory toys, and the foam dashes in cascades at the foot of the rocks. As regards the Flora of the Island, nearly every plant of Europe, and many of tropical Africa, are to be found here in profusion. Flow7ers w7hich we in England find difficulty in raising in our hothouses, grow here by the hedgerows.

Geraniums and heliotrope are common weeds thrusting their heads from between every rock and stone, where there is the scantiest of soil. Fruits are abundant. Strawberries can be obtained for eight months of the year, whilst the orange is always in bloom, and most marvellous of sights, always in fruit. It is, indeed, curious to see bloom and fruit side by side on the same tree. Guavas, melons, citrons, lemons, oranges, alligator pears, and pears and apples of all kinds, custard apples, mangoes, bananas, grapes, figs and loquots are to be had at almost all seasons. For chest complaints and lung troubles I do not think the air of Madeira is to be beaten. During my sojourn there last year I came across some advanced consumptives, in some of whom the disease was ■entirely arrested, and very many others who were on the high road to recovery.

Phthisis, like all other wasting complaints, is not incurable, if properly treated from the commencement, and I am sure thousands who succumb to this dreadful complaint have simply been victims to procrastination. I met a gentleman who had a large cavity in both lungs, and seven years ago was carried ashore almost in extremis, but with the pure and invigorating atmosphere he speedily regained strength and gradually put on flesh, and to-day, though still what one must term a delicate man, yet is entirely free from the disease, and all further progress is arrested. His medical adviser told me that provided he remains at Madeira he would never die of consumption. The only drawback to Madeira is that it is in the hands of the Portuguese, a people who are at least a century behind the times, and to my mind, a nation that is decidedly retrograde in their administration.

The fact is the whole Government is too expensively managed. Nearly every third person one meets is an official of some kind, and officials, we all know, require pay ; this the revenues of the kingdom are not able to bear, and the consequence is the country is fast drifting into absolute bankruptcy. The lower classes among the Portuguese are civil, obliging and polite, in fact an honest and trustworthy people ; but once convert the citizen into an official, with a small piece of gold lace round his cap, and dear me, Julius Cæsar is not in it with him. His head erect, his peacock's strut, and the nasal organ elevated another thirty degrees, and such vulgar people as the hated Englishman is unworthy of notice, except an opportunity can be made to annoy him. Truly they are a short-sighted people, for history shows that England has always been Portugal's best friend, but so great is the jealousy at present existing, that last year on the occasion of one of their public fete days, when Funchal was decorated with thousands of flags of all nations, not a single English flag of any sort or kind could be seen from one end of the town to the other ; yet it is beyond question that Madeira is indebted for nearly all the gold that flows into it from the English visitors and English merchants.