Holidays in Tyrol, Kufstein, Klobenstein and Paneveggio

Front matter

KTJFSTEIN, KLOBENSTEIN, AND PANEVEGGIO. BY WALTER WHITE, author or "a Londoner's walk to ttir land's end," "on foot through ttkol," AND OTHER BOOKS OF TRAVEL- " Some things can be done as well as others." Sau Patcii. LONDON : CHAPMAN AND HALL, 193, PICCADILLY. 187C. [All Sights reserved.] LO>D0N : IBIXTED VY VIRTUE AUD CO. LIMITED, CITSs BOAD. FOREWORD. Twenty years ago I walked through Tyrol from end to end, and published an account thereof in a hook which, perhaps, some readers may remember. In that walk the great high way of the Brenner was our eastern limit. Now, in tho holidays of seven summers, 1 overpass that limit, and invite all who are willing to renew the friendly acquaintance of earlier days, to accompany me into a wild and romantic region still comparatively unknown. In order to maintain the unreserved confidence which has always prevailed between us, T make known here at the very beginning, that in this book there is no description of peril ous adventures, and no snow, except, far away on shining summits.

Exploits above tbe snow-line are, consequently, not to be looked for. Headers who enjoy that kind of excitement may indulge themselves to the full among the tents of climbing recorded by Mr. Fresbfield in his very entertaining volume. J!ut there is much concerning field and forest, and road and river, and men and women and their ways, their opinions and their superstitions, in a district of South Tyrol which but few English folk have visited. And among all this are incidents of daily life, touches of character, a little meteoro logy, and a sprinkling of nonsense ; and, taking the reader VI FOREWORD. as a companion, and using singular or plural at pleasure, 1 gossip with him over our daily experiences. Habit strengthens as years multiply ; and if, as has been said, I " preserve things that are insignificant, that are in no way characteristic, and that tire if they do not vex one," I am ready to accept the consequences.

In my first book I stipulated for liberty to tell my story in my own way ; and to that stipulation I have faithfully adhered. An opinion prevails that South Tyrol — the land of the dolomites — cannot be seen without extraordinary privation or fatigue ; whereas all the best parts of tbe country may now be visited on wheels. From Toblach in tbe Pusterthal an excellent road affords easy access to Italy. From Landro there is choice of two ways to Cadore — the main thoroughfare, or the new road through Auronzo. From Belluno you may drive all tbe way to Caprile. Here a break occurs, and they who wish to reach the new road at Primiero, musl undertake a few hours' journey from Agordo on mule-back, or return by the way they came to the Brenner railway, or drive from Belluno down Val Sugana till they strike the railway at Trent.

Chapter I

I'A'iK <llad Tidings. — A Bay of Mountains. — Converted Castles. — The Klause. — The Inn, a rushing River. — Kufstein. — Attractive Perspectives. — Twofold Custom House. — The Town. — The Citadel. — Kaiser Max. — Hurly-burly, and Wake-up. — Imperial Vengeance. — View from th< Bridge to the Thierberg. — The Hermitage and Hermit. — The Chapel. — Anatomical Offerings. — Curious Picture.— The Tower. — The Prospect. — The Kaiserlierg. — A Circle of Mountains. — A Ring of Forest. — The Fremdenhuch. — The Kaiserthal. — Prosperous, yet not fruitful. — The Hechtsce. — The Earthquake 1

Chapter II

1 .ower Inn Valley. — Wbrgl. — Brixlegg. — A Miracle Play. — How to tame a Village. — Jenbach. — Choice of Excursions. — Achenthal and Zillerthal. — Schwatz. — Hall. — Innsbruck. — Old and nc*w. — Honour to a Poet. — The new Bridge. — The lost Ferry. — Swift Water. — The Silver ( hapel. — The Hills. — The Lanserkopf. — (Uorious View. — Val Deli- < ios;t. — Array of Mountains. — Chorus on the Kopf. — The Lauser See. — Igls. — Sunday Theatre. — Proud Peasants. — Firemen's Feast. — Rival Taps. — The Burgomaster. — Liberalismus and Clericalismus. — A Poet's Protest 11

Chapter III

\ Kcminisecnce. — Wonderful Railway. — Clever Engineering. — Patsch. — Stafflach and Falserthal. — Overcoming a Difficulty. — A foolish Englishman. — Summit of the Brenner. — A sesond Visit. — Cool Con- | rast. — Brenner Bath. — Young Eisaek. — Edelweis and frisehes Wasser. — The Descent. — The Pflerschthal. — Sterzing.— Franzensfeste. — Growls. — Brixen. — Klausen. — Ingenious Barber. — Waidhruck. — Porphyry Gorge. — Kunter and his Way. — The Tcufelsloch. — Breadths of Vines. — Botzen CONTENTS. X

Chapter IV. Page

Another Way to the Brenner. — Hinterdux. — From Zillerthal to Schmirnthal. — A Scrap of War News. — Ueber die Eck. — A Surprise. — The Falserthal.— Stafflach.— The Old Highway.— Gries.— Brixen.— Plums and Bigotry. — Cowls and Cloaks. — An Old World Druggist. — The Rhaetian Coblenz. — Rienz and Eisack. — Elephant and Star. — Voyage ofthe Novara. — Down toAtzwang. — A dark Koad. — The wild Torrent. — Post and Kellnerinn 31

Chapter V

A Choice of Climbs. — The Morning Prayer. — Upwards. — A Gulch. — Schlern and Company. — Heat and Cress. — Lizards and Grasshoppers. — The Ritten. — Klobenstein. — Path for Pilgrims. — Diners andDinners. — A Protestant Pastor. — Pleasant Walks. — Quest of the Rittnerhorn. — The Hund. — The Eirleberg. — The Village. — The Dolomite'Country. —The Evening Post OS

Chapter VI

An Ascent. — Saucy Haymakers. — Hund and Horn. —Limitless Mowing. — The Spring. — Summit of the Rittnerhorn. — Panorama. — Gross Glockner to Adamello. — Agile Triiger. — Lengmoos. — Religious Art. — The Betrayal. — Bildstiickl. — Two Inscriptions. — A Gulch. — Edification. — The Finsterbach. — The Pyramids. — Treacherous Road. — Cudgel Bridges. — Witchcraft. — Columns, Poles, and Pinnacles. — Three Churches. — A Procession and its Consequences. — What Spectators said. — Chaff for Churchmen. — Waiting outside . . . . H

Chapter VII

Pretty Walks. — A Peep into the Nether World. — Railway Caterpillar. — A Departure and a Kiss. — The Way to Botzen. — Unterinn. — Wolfgrubensee. — Purgatory. — Ober-Botzen. — Stony Paths and Pleasant Sites. — Complete Indulgence. — Fascinations. — Outdoor Life. — Volcanic Fires. — Plains before Peaks. — A Slow-foot. — Priests in England. — Quick Ideas. — Kissing the Hand. — A great white Sea. — Picked out with Snow. — Magical Lightning. — A Mountain Storm ■ ■ . 55

CHAPTER VIIL

Plants, Ruins, and Books. — The Bibliothek. — From Patristica to Miscellanea. — Privileges. — Mariahilf. — Iron Spring. — A pleasant Nest. Starers. — Disagreeable Water. — The Stafflerwirth. — Steep and stony- Approaches g> CONTENTS. XI

Chapter IX. Page

The Way to Botzen. — A first and last Town. — Broad Vineyards and yellow Faces. — German Streets. — Curious architecture. — Coopers and Sawyers. — Laubengasse. — Italian Row, German Bow. — Picturesque Touches. — A Lesson for London. — Johannis Platz. — The Pfarrkirch. —Tho Fruit Market.— The 'Raiser Bridge.— View of Dolomites.— Calvarienberg.— Floods. — Bed Water. — Sham Wine. — Recreative Lesources. — Hotels. — A Word on Manners. — Hats off! — Sigmundskrom-. — War on the Hill. — A twofold Confluence. — Gries. — Flies and Floods. —The Eggenthal.— Porphyry Cliffs.— The Waterfall.— Mind, Morals, and Climate GG

Chapter X

The Etsch Valley . — TheBothstein. — L'eberEtsch and Mendel. — Branzoll. — Rothwand. — Auer. — Kastel Fuder. — Cimbri and Komans. — Neumarkt. — Dulness. — Devotion and Comedy. — Litanies. — Old Manners, New Men. — Messagerie Postale. — Grape Watchers. — Cheap Wine. — Up the Zislon. — Tramin, a Reminiscence. — Schloss Enn. — Molto Pericoloso. — Kalditsch. — Timber Trade. — Fontane Fredde.- — Gambrinus. — Old Yellow Man. — San Lugano, the Summit, — Val Pradana. — Castello. — Cavalcse 78

Chapter XI

Amphibious City. — Contrasts. — Salt Marshes. — Land versus Sea. — Mestre. — Conegiiano. — A Talker. — Old and New Masters. — The Hausknecht. — Pleasures of Night Travel. — Unseen Scenery.— Capo! di Ponte. — The Piave. — Longarone. — Val di Zoldo. — Castello. — Timber Catches. — Paiol.— Ospitale.— Perarollo.— The Boita.— Tai di Cadore.— The Miracle.— Pieve di Cadore.— Effigy of Titian.— The Castle.— A Landscape of Contrasts. — Pelma and Antelao. — Vicissitude. — An Ac- ([uaintance ........... S7

Chapter XII

A fresh Start.— Valley of the Boita.— Valle.— Wild scenery.— Pclmo and Antelao. — Venas. — A Caretta.— Hospitable Goldsmith.— Surprises. — Vodo. — Kanzia. — Italianism. — Tho Frontier. — Calamities. — Shifting .Slopes.. — A growing Field. — Tofana and Cristallo. — Wet Consolation. — Cortina ............ 9 1

Chapter XIII

Aspects of Cortina.— A Stroll.— Crag and Forest.— Peutelstein.— A Gorge. An Outlook. — Wooing onwards. — Schluderbach. — Croda Rossa. — Good Quarters.— A three-score-and-ten Traveller.— A Rejoinder.— Hellstone Valley.— Drei Zinnen.— Landro.— Graf and Grafinn— A Puzzle of Pronunciation.— Voices of the Night.— Up Monte Piana.— Grasshoppers and Grouse.— Snow Peaks or Rock Peaks? — A Brave Company.— Shout and Jodel.— Lake Misurina.— Croda Malcora.— Forest.— Knife Edges.— Tre Croci.— A Salute and a Greeting.— Chance Companions CONTENTS. XII

Chapter XIV. Page

A Real Stroll.— Small Things and Great— Mosses and Mountains.— Effects of Haze.— Black Eagle and Golden Star.— Women's Work.— Men's Play. — Botschcle. — Vesper Music . . . . • • .11

Chapter XV

A Mischievous Triiger.— Fir Forest.— The Summit.— The Prospect.— Discoveries and Speculations. — Salami. — Monte Giau. — Steep Descent. — Telmo and Civetta. — Selva. — Santa Lucia. — The Chancel. — Good Looks for Artists. — A Kiss. — Promontories. — Caprile. — The Cordevole. — Inglese! — A Geological Fault. — Sottoguda. — Saying Prayers. — Romantic Gorge. — Indiscreet Travellers. — A Bogue. — Weather Stains. ■ — Visitors' Book. — Memorable Names 1'-'

Chapter XVI

Valley of the Cordevole.— Monte Pizzo. — Lake Alleghe. — The Contrast. — The Bergfall. — Cencenighe. — The two Soups. — Bi-o-ish. — Agordo. — A Rural Square. — Superb Site. — Palle di San Lucano. — The Bridge. — The Copper Works.— Woe to the Fishes. — A Hill of Ore. — A Gorge. — Canale di Agordo. — Cheap Chickens. — The Cavaliere's Garden. — (lallo di Montagna. — A Happy Artist. — Jolly Hostess. — Another Start. — Monte Agner. — Gosaldo. — Pflicht. — Price of a Bull. — Quicksilver. — Sagron. — Disturbi. — Cereda. — Primiero 12-1

Chapter XVII

A Welcome. — Model Innkeeper. — News. — The Street. — The Furst Amt. — The Church. — The Monstrance. — The Canonica. — A waddling Prie6t. Fruitful Prospect. — Landlord's Suggestions. — The Cismone. — Colesel Rosso. — A Fresh Start. — Siror. — Under the Larches. — Another Surprise. — Cima Cimedo. — Sass Maor. — Cimon, King of the Dolomites. — ltock and Colour. — San Martino di Castrozza. — A Dingy Hostelry. — Typical Pigeon. — A Building Project. — The Upward Way.- — Contorted Costonzella. — Road-makers. — The .Summit. — A Noisy Forest. — A Broken Bridge. — Paneveggio. — A Pretty Fellow .... 133

Chapter XVIII

Happiness. — The House. —The Stoop. — Gasthaus zum Schonen Kerb — Plenishing. — The Dairy. — The Chapel.- — Decorations. — A Mower in Peril. — The Avalanche. — Buried in Snow. — Diggers. — Deliverance, and Why. — A Priest for Fine Weather. — Arrears of Confession.- — The Garden. — The Prospect. — Is that all? 141

Chapter XIX

A Question of Etymology. — Up tbe Valley. — The Nursery. — Forest and Foresters. — A mighty Mast. — Under trie Trees. — Rock and Colour. — Giuribel and Giuribrut. — The Dam. — The Drift. — Exciting Work. — A Beading Place. — Thyme and Strawberries. — Pian di Boche.- — Plantation. — Rivo Valassa. — Venigia. — Lonesome House. — A Question of Solitude. — Up to Giuribel. — The Archducal Dairy. — Shortened Words CONTENTS. XIII

Chapter XX

Down the Valley.— Tho Devil's Glen.— The Old Cross.— Peril of Travel.— A Pleasant Oval —From Gloom to Gloom.— An Outlook.— The Tree-tops.— A Blusig.— Golden Gleams.— Grey Mist.— The Surveyor's Tumb. — A Mountain Meadow. — Rounding Dos Sasso. — A rough Lane. — Another Valassa. — Bellamonte.— Elevated Haymaking. — The Hamlet.— The Weisshorn.— Old Road and No Road.— Porphyry Cliffs. — The New Road. — Softness and Savagery. — Flowers and Fruit. — Nimble Air.— A Storm.— A Refuge.— Where is Weit hin ?— A Why? . 156

Chapter XXI

The Kapuziner. — Card Play. — Franziskaner and Kapuziner. — Labourers. — Shabby Garments. — Broken-down Brigands.- — " Giorno, Padron." — Unloveliness. — Going to Chapel. — Warm Worship.— The Pedlar. — Mass aud Merchandise. — Damp Worship. — Morra. — Noise. — Enzian. — Quarrels. — A Priest concerning Travel. — A poetical Book. — From Vienna to Primicro. — A Theatre. — A fussy Soldier. — Same as in War Time. — The Donkey's Hay 1C3

Chapter XXII

A Protest. — Pflicht ist Pflicht. — Before the Dew was dry. — Summit of Lusia. — From Cimon to Ortler. — Val Pellegrino. — Jloena. — Fleims and Fassa. — Miller and Donkey. — L'Avis. — C'aressa Pass. — Lattemar. — Horse's Teeth. — Rose Garden. — Ugly Scree. — Welschenofen. — A sulky Slattern. — Half an Hour too Late. — An opportune Carriage. — Birehabruck. — A volunteer Passenger. — The Eggenthal. — A Parting Cup. — Botzen 172

Chapter XXIII

Waidbruck. — Barbianer Alp.— Trostburg. — Oswald von Wolkenstein — Heathen Prussians. — A Bejected Lover.— A crafty Lady. — Going to Grbden. — A pleasant Valley. — Loads of Toys.— Carrying Bees to Flowers. — The Puflatsch. — Beery Resting-place. — The Langkofel. — St. Ulrich. — The White Horse. — Mountains and Politics. — Lack of Trees. — Tawdry Ornament. — A cumbrous Gown. — Haube Wearers. — Thousands of Toys. — Wooden Saints. — Stacks of Crucifixes. — Wasser-kraft.— Boxes 179

Chapter XXIV

An Excursion.— St. Jakob.— The Outstretched Crucifix.— A Mourner.— Only an Acquaintance. — An Arrival. — A Lady in Trousers. — Agile as a Chamois. — News. — Walk to Castelruth. — Prospect of Klobenstein. — Self-reliant Village.— Gossip.— A Cattle Doctor.— A Geologist.— Kalk and Kalk.— Theory and Fact CONTENTS. XIV

Chapter XXV. Page

Up the Valley.— Prosperity.— Schloss Fischburg.— St. Christina— Wolkenstein. — Our Lady's Sleadow.— Queer Caps. — Playing and Praying. — The Langenthal.— Plan, out of the World.— A decorated Lamb.— Tbe Two Ways.— A Travelled Hostess.— English Happiness.— Windmills and Boats. — Dialect. — ( 'bituary Pictures. — Taproom Decorations. — An Evening Walk 193

Chapter XXVI

A Short Chapter of Words and Phrases . . . ... - .200

Chapter XXVII

St. Ulrieh to Fassa. — Polishing the Virgin. — " You ! " — A Basket of Sheep. — Saltariaberg. — Donkey Carver. — Seisser Alp. — The Spring. — Cow Paradise. — Blattkogel.— Grumbling Trager. — More Mountains. — The Duronthal. — A Plunge. — Campidello. — Al Molino. — Two tough Tourists. — Graves and Skulls. — Priestly Bowlers. — Source of Avisio. — Triune Valley. — Bernardi, Junior. — Fassathal. — Vigo. — Mountains and Ash-heaps. — Stgraun. — Up Monte Lusia. — Turgid Triiger. — Lost in the Forest. — Smashing a Kraks. — Paneveggio 202

Chapter XXVIII

New Faces. — Art and Learning. — Reminder of Schluderbach. — Musical Evening. — Patriotic Songs. — The Heuschreck. — Das Lied von Paneveggio. — Yankee Doodle in Church. — The Archduke. — About the Supper Things. — The Archduchess. — Decorations Ecclesiastical. — Loan of a Voice. — The Emperor's Birthday. — The Garibaldi Hymn. — Camiciu Eossa. — Otel zum Cherl. — A Serenade. — Evviva! — The Merry Choir. — Vespers 212

Chapter XXIX

A New Walk. — V-vl Venayotta. — Val Venigia. — Mighty Boulders. — Rockv Mountains. — Freaks of Chaos. — Misty Transformation. — True, yet Incredible. — Ants' Nest. — Formic Feats. — Casera. — Dairymen. — Boundary Stone. — Devastation. — The Ultimate Valley. — The Scree. — The Glacier. — The Ice Cavern. — Two Ways Out 220

Chapter XXX

Regina Santa. — Washing and Poetry. — Burger's Lenore. — Favourite Passages. — Nine Jolly Priests. — A Fanatic. — A Good Time. — Five playful Priests. — A Wet Mouth. — Six noisy Germans. — Larm and Greatness. Swine and their Ways. — Water-shunning Ducks. — Sociable Fowls and Pigeons _ CONTENTS. XV

Chapter XXXI

A lo-minisrencc. — Time to Wait, Time to Ramble. — Cheerful Cavalese. — The Market Place. — An enslaved Torrent. — Grinding and Washing. — Little Gardens. — The Church. — Church Goers. — Landscapes. — ValCembra. — Way to Borgo. — TheSchwarzhorn. — Uses of Delay. — No Hurry. Unexpected Pastures. — Carana and its Spring. — Tesero. — Panchia. — Departure of Yellow Faces. — Way to Cavalonte. — Ziano. — Predazzo 2.11

Chapter XXXII

Advices. — Malgola and Mulat. — The Golden Ship. — How a Village looks. — Admirable Disorder. — Ins and Outs. — Rough Touches. — Numbers and Frescoes. — Old Houses. — Traders' Signs. — A famous Bootmaker. — Men's Names. — Dogs' Nicknames. — Fondago del Pane. — Women's Recreation.- — At the Church Doors. — Old-looking Youngsters. — A Funeral. — Chant and t 'andles. — Summer Dulness. — Winter Liveliness. — Dancing and Play-acting under Restraint. — Nebuchadnezzar. — Cultivated Villagers. — Furious Vestrymen.— Dialects .... 238

Chapter XXXIII

Cows and Goats.1— Jingle and Tinkle. — The Goas-bue.— The Feodo. — Past Twelve. — Fire Engines. — Useful Old Church. — Firemen's Drill. — Escapes. — Salvage. — Political Music. — Austria and Italy. — Italianisti. — Retreat of the German. — Alpinisti. — Italian Alps! — Ballonspiel. — Wooden Mitten. — Flying Ball. — Smash. — Pears and Pears. . . 24G

Chapter XXXIV

A Remarkable Guest-book. — Count Marzari and his Discovery. — A Sight for Geologists. — Humboldt. — Portraits. — Sir Roderick.— A Scientific Company. — Rhyming Doctor. — "Very Civil People." — The Adventurous Four. — Accusation. — Climbers of Cimon. — Klipstein, the Geologist. — Rectification. — Pulchritude better than .Attitude. — About Guides. — Beware of the Postmaster 252

Chapter XXXV

Mouth of a Volcano.— Geological Hieroglyphs. — Val Flammarum. — To Canzocoli.— Rough Ascent. — Ecco !— Illegible Rock.— Geological Eyes. Yellow Greensand. — Houses and Hills.— Signs of Trade. — Mills and Matches. — A Million a Day. — Stone and Marble — Masons and Carvers. A Riverside Wall;. — A Defile. — Enzian Distillery. — A Paper-mill. — Haymakers. — Laborious Transport. — Simple Diet. — A Nook. — Cas- . — Sottosassi. — Cliffs and Colours. — Lealy Adornments. — Ruin and Finforli CONTENTS. XVI

Chapter XXXVI. Pagk

Panchia to Cavalonte. — A noisy Brook.— Signs of Iron. — Breathless Germans. — A big Step. — The Stabilimcnto. — Albergo, Alp and Cliff. — A hearty Greeting. — Another Greeting. — The Yellow Old Man again. — Up to the Spring. — A rough Retreat. — Drinkers. — Wheel and Wire.— Full Baskets and Empties. — A Message. — The Hole in the Cliff — A slimy Crawl. — A Hill Prospect. — Way to C'auria. — About the Baths. — About the Water. — Broccoli and Pinus cembra. — Stony Analysis. — The y.iuno Route. — The Larches. — A Question of Spelling .... 2GS

Chapter Xxxviii

Charm of the Forest. — An Exploration. — Up the Boehe. — Interview witli Horses. — Casera, with a Prospect. — Redcap's Welcome. — Goods and Chattels. — Cheesemaking. — The Cheesemakers and their Names. — Consider the Prospect! — Lonely Lake. — Up Again. — The Cornice. — A brutal Mountain. — A black Gulf. — Traps for silly Birds — The Summit. — Chaos and Beauty. — King Cimon and his Subjects. — Cima d'Asta andAdamello. — San Pellegrin. — A Panorama. — Savage Ridges. — Conglomerate. — Tiresome Descent. — A Sun-watch .....

Chapter XXXIX

Reasonable Laziness. — Don't Think. — The Wheelbarrow. — Open your Eyes. — Aspects of Nature. — A transformed Landscape. — Dos Sasso. — ■ Misty Movements. — In the Night. — Specimens of Dialect. — Proud Roveredo. — Hateful Trent. — England, as described by a Forest Inspector. — A Wirth's Opinion of Englishmen. — The Postman. — Earl}* Singers. — A new Dairy. — The lone House. — Mrs. Battista. — I go to the Doctor. —The Kitchen Fire.— The Maid 2S7

Chapter XL

News of an Earthquake. — A masculine Fraulein. — Up the Valley and Up the Hill. — The Grenzstein. — The Hills of the Cordevole. — Wonderful Spectacle. — Pian della Stelle. — Pian di Yclles. — The Brothers. — Falcade. — Prayers and Kerchiefs. — A Fumigation. — Bondi. — Canale. — II Gallo. — Valley of the Biois. — Ceneenighe. — Grand Scenery. — Agordo. — Val San Lucano. — A Touch of Earthquake ? — Imposing Site. — English Advertisements. — The Omnibus. — Drive through the Canale. — La SLanga.— Peron. — Magnificent Gateway. — Miles of Landslip. — Belluno . . . . . . .

Chapter XLI

Superb Belluno.— Geological Favours. — Rich Province. — Scrap of History. — The Earthquake. — Terror and Ruin. — Twisted Tower.— The Angel's Wings.— Borgo Garibaldi. —Reparations.— Bcnefitof Lowness. — Falb'a Prediction. — Below the Hill. — Borgo di Pia ve.— Hydropathic Baths. — Sleepy Clerk.— An Excuse for the Earthquake.— Shin Plasters. How the Bill was paid . . 3qj CONTENTS. XVII

Chapter XLII. Paok

Once more by the Piave. — Signs of tho Earthquake. — A Grocer's Sign. — More Earthquake. — Cadore. — feigns of Progress. — Venas. — Landslips. — Cortina. — Peutelstein. — Enviable Appetites. — Sehluderbach and Landro. — Crowds. — Hollensteinerthal. — The Pusterthal. — Toblacherfeld. — Drau and Rienz. — Six Whito Blouses. — Niederdorf. — The Post and its Praises. — American Character. — Landscapes.- — Railway Engineering Triumphs. — Live Ground. — Franzensfeste . . .015

Chapter XLIII

Another Way Home. — The Zigzags. — A Farewell Look. — Rolle ; a Cantoniera. — The Footpath. — Crooked Costonzella. — Val Castrozza. — Thousands of Larches. — San Martino. — Incredible Cleanliness. — Promising Masonry- — Hopeful Schemes. — Niente Inglese. — The Man who wrote tho Letter. — The New Hotel. — Blanket Decorations. — Joy-jingle. — The Bishop. — A Conical Skull. — Primiero again. — The Theatre. — The Audience. — The Actors. — The Count. — The Furies. — Col Sanguarna. — Tonadigo. — Out-door Spinners. — Castel Pietra. — Tho Sassi. — Delightful Footway. — Count Welsperg'a House. — Outdoor Toilet. — The Torrent. — Roofless Cavern. — Living Picture : Moss and Water. — Leslie Stephen's Ridge. — A Way to Agordo . .321

Chapter XLIV

( iff for Fonzaso.— Mezzana. — Imer. — .San Silvestro. — A Mystery. — Pontet. — On Foot. — Mule Path. — A Carrier, Bovaro. — Cliffs and Gorges. — Deep-down Log-drifters. — Monte Coppolo. — Canal San Bovo. — Logs and Life. — Ecstasy. — Mules and Muck. — Monte Valassa. — Gullies. — II mio Paese. — Lamon, the Carless. — Ponte della Serra. — A Jam. — White Slopes and Red Slopes. — Fonzaso. — Stony Scenery. — Primolano. — A cliffy Village. — Painful Gardening. — A Night Journey. — Frontier Custom-house. — Grigno. — Borgo. - Skin-deep Beauty. — Levico. — Sour Grapes. — Pergine. — Trent. — Reminiscences . . 332

Chapter XLV

The Grbdnerthal again. — Layen. — Walther vor. der Vogel weide. — Room in St. Ulrich. — Schnitz Schule. — Tall Crucifix. — Plan. — Excursion. — Mi-isules. — Sella Joch. — Col di Rodela. — Mountains and Valleys. — Magnificent Temple.— Feed for Twenty Sheep.— A Five^Hours' Trip 311

Chapter XLVI

Innovfitionsat Pancveggio.— Saw-mills. — Bad News for Predazzo. — Housebuilders.— Hod-boys. — New .Canal.— New People ?— The Sylvan Charm.— Our Party.—" Come again."— Good-bye ! ... WHITE'S HOLIDAYS IN TYROL. I.iiiuloii.('liii|Hiiiiii XllfllJ. IV< «-,-i<lillv.

Chapter I

Glad Tidings. — A Bay of Mountains. — Converted Castles. — The Klause. — The Inn, a rushing River. — Kufstein. — Attractive Perspectives. — Twofold Custom House. — The Town. — The Citadel. — Kaiser Max. — Hurlyburly, and Wake-up. — Imperial Vengeance. — View from the Bridge to the Thierberg. — The Hermitage and Hermit. — The Chapel. — Anatomical Offerings. — Curious Picture. — The Tower. — The Prospect. — The Kaiserberg. — A Circle of Mountains. — A Ring of Forest. — The Fremdenbuch. — The Kaiserthal. — Prosperous, yet not fruitful. — The Hechtsec. — The Earthquake. Far in the south-east, as you travel from Munich towards Tyrol, you see rising above the level horizon the picturesque summits of the Bavarian Alps. The sight animates you ; for the " beautiful feet " have left thereon an imprint of beauty, ami those lofty mountain-tops are fraught with " glad tidings."

Higher and higher they rise as we approach Rosenheim, a place of noise and bustle, -where we part company with passengers bound for Salzburg. Soon distant peaks appear as islets on our left, and these also rising higher and higher, we have at length on each hand a continuous range. It is as if we were hastening into a great bay, which narrows and becomes more picturesque and romantic as we advance. The mountains come still nearer, and rise higher, and the u bay contracts to a defile, where castles in ruin on the heights remind us of knightly patriots and knightly thieves. Some of tho ruins have redeemed their character by conversion into factories or breweries, and some give shelter to peasants or old servants. We pass the frontier stone, and come to Klause, where road, river, and railway are crowded into the narrowest part of the defile.

The Inn, a mighty stream, rushes forth to meet us, and ever onwards carrying his message from a thousand hills and valleys, across the great Bavarian plain to the far distant Danube. Fresh exhilaration comes to us at sight of so swift a breadth of running water. Then the vale expands, and looking ahead we see the citadel of Kufstein on the crest of a bold rock, and the town clustered around its base, all overlooked from each side by greater heights of rock, pasture, and forest ; and we soon dis cover that, as a native topographer describes, the neighbour hood is " enlivened by enticing perspectives." We have entered Austrian territory, and of course baggage must be examined. The task is an easy one as regards hand packs, for the customs' officers accept your assurance that your bag contains nothing taxable (zollbar) ; but for those who have trunks and coffers, there is much expenditure of time and trouble.

Meanwhile, the others may dine at rea sonable cost, and drink good beer or wine at pleasure; for Kufstein has now a large and commodious railway-station, divided between two nationalities, the northern half being Bavarian, the southern half Austrian. The town — for it is called a town, though smaller than many a village — stands on the right bank of the river. The first house as you cross the bridge is the Hotel zur Post. A httle higher, on the opposite side of the way, Zum Auracher KUFSTEIN AND KAISER. 3 "H'.r, equally good entertainment, and a perennial tap of lively beer, at reasonable charges. A broad steep street, with a fountain supporting a Virgin and Child above the waterspouts, two or three public-houses, and a few good shops, crossed at the top by a narrow street, where, among groceries, napery, soap, and candles, you may find a bookseller, make up the town.

But it seems oppressed by the great citadel rock which rears itself high above all the houses, as if it were the most important of local institutions. Permission to climb the steep path which leads to the sum mit may be obtained from the commandant, when he is in good humour, should you desire to make the ascent. Where, centuries back, Kufstein emerges from the misty period, we find it vexing the soul of the great Maximilian because the defenders would not give it up at his summons, and sneered at his puny artillery. He lost his temper, and vowed a terrible vow ; and, what was more to the purpose, he brought up two guns, Hurlyburly and Wake-up, the big gest in all Germany, and delivered his fire with such effect, that, as the chroniclers tell us, the balls not only passed through the fourteen-feet thick walls, but penetrated the .solid rock at the rear.

The garrison surrendered; but victory was not enough for the famous emperor, and eleven heads were chopped off before his vengeance was appeased. He could not forgive the sneers. A little chapel on the hill side, known locally as Ainlifen (eleven), still marks the burial place of the victims. Since then Kufstein has shared the usual fate of a border fortress, an envy and a prey to quarrelsome neighbours ; and as a prison, it has proved strong enough to hold political captives, whose thoughts, meanwhile, were quickening the work of freedom outside. b2 Standing on the bridge with your back to the town, you see beyond the little village of Zell, on the left bank, two big casemated forts with a long connecting covered way crossing the slope between : so jealously does Austria guard this narrow entrance to her faithful Tyrolese province.

But, compared with the surrounding hills and mountains, the stronghold looks insignificant, One among the hills, identified by an old tower on the summit, is the Thierberg. We can walk thither easily in less than an hour. Let us go. It is much more inviting than the grim citadel. Pass the railway-station, and take the road down the valley till you come to a friendly way-mark, erected by the Yerscho nerungsverein, which indicates the upward path. It is a pleasant path under trees, among ferns, weeds, and grasses that love the cool shade. At the end of the trees is a seat, placed perhaps by the same good-natured Embellishment Society that has set up so many way-marks here and there on the hill, as we shall see. We cross fields and pastures, where husbandmen and women too, not hired labourers, but small proprietors, are working in the bright sunshine.