The Sportsman's Paradise; or, the Lake Lands of Canada ... With illustrations by D. C. and H. Beard. Second edition

Preface

TO THE SECOND EDITION. It is less than three months since the first edition of "The Sportsman's Paradise" was issued from the press, but the reading public has so kindly received the menu which we had prepared that it is already necessary to re plenish the stock. It is scarcely requisite in this connec tion to express our sense of gratitude, which so naturally arises from the flattering reception given to this book, since the same would be unquestionably understood al though not expressed in words. It is now more confi dently believed by the author than ever before that many readers "find more pleasure in the perusal of books truthfully delineating the excitement of the chase than in reading those of fiction." B. A. WATSON. Jersey City, N. J , February 23, 1888. v

PREFACE.

TO THE FIRST EDITION. The acme of pleasure can only be attained by the sportsman when his confreres are permitted to share with him in the excitement of the chase. In this respect the chase may be compared to a good dinner, which is always most enjoyable when partaken of in the company of con genial spirits. A book may likewise be further compared to a dinner, since the first chapter is commonly introduc tory to the better parts which come in the regular order of the courses, while a narrative which produces no pleas urable excitement for the reader is like a dinner without wine. This menu has been prepared for the general reading public, but it is thought by the author that it may be es pecially enjoyed by sportsmen and the rising generation of boys, who frequently find more pleasure in the perusal of books truthfully delineating the excitement of the chase than in reading those of fiction.

The author is deeply indebted to the accomplished artist, Dan. C. Beard, of New York, who has so greatly assisted him in the presentation of the more interesting parts of this narrative, and also to the publishers, J. B. Lippincott Company, of Philadelphia, whose work speaks so well for the printing art in America. B. A. WATSON. Jersey City, N. J., October 12, 1887. vn CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Page

Recreation and its Objects — Classification of Hunters— Active Exercise an Excellent Remedy for Obesity — Sport at Shelbyville, Tennessee — What Occurred at the Evans House — A Friend in Need is a Friend Indeed — Home Once More i

Chapter II

Three Doctors in Search of Sport — Our Guides — The Chief, and the Magnet which controlled him — Trout-Fishing on Sunday, and the Results which followed a Violation of the Canadian Law — Chief John in Disgrace — Failure of his Plans

Chapter III

Grand Fishing Excursion— Watte's Creek visited by the Governor and Esculapius — Their Return and Reception at Camp— Grand Deer- Hunt, led by Dr. Pokorney — Chief John and his Assistants are relieved from Duty and go to the Rear in Disgrace — Dr. Pokorney and other Assistants 41

Chapter IV

The Start and Incidents of the Journey — Lumbermen and their Drunken Orgies — Travelling by the Royal Mail Stage in Muskoka — The Party attacked by Fleas — Camp on Canoe Lake— Deer-Hunting — Governor Starts for Home — The Remainder of the Party off for New Fields— Camp on Pickerel Lake— Rain and Fish — Crossing the Horka-Porka Portage— Camp on Rock Lake — Trout-Fishing— Camp near Loon and Grass Lakes — Camp on Sand Lake — Homeward Bound 61 CONTENTS. x PAGE 146

Chapter V

The Start for a Grand Mooseand Deer-Hunt — Selection of a Photographer and the Chief Guide — A Romantic Wedding and the Honeymoon — Arrival at Rosseau Village — Canadian Stage Route — Proprietor and Driver— Our Old Friend " Chris" — Our New-Made Acquaintance — Mr. Struce, of Brooklyn 80

Chapter VI

Our Departure from Rosseau — A Charming Morning and a Healthful Walk — Camped near Spence — Incidents which occurred there — Joined by our Guides — Camped on Birch Island — Camp-Life on Ahmic Lake — Struce starts for Home — The Balance of the Party off on a Long Tramp — The Beaver's Trysting-Places — The Photographer's Sport near Burk's Falls — Plodding through Woods after Dark — The Youthful Driver— Arrival at Sphynx Shoot . . . .102

Chapter VII

The Movements of our Hunting-Party— Crossing the Hor-ka-por-ka Portage — Fishing in Rock Lake— Another Advance — Deer-Hunting, etc. —The Journey from Trout Lake to Long Lake— Camp on Long Lake- More Deer-Hunting — An Exciting Contest, in which the Photographer Wins .... .,, I24

Chapter VIII

Drying Venison— A Grand and Beautiful Mountain Gorge— The Meeting at the Beaver-Dam— Our Photographer Lost in the Wilderness —A Lonely Night on Buck Lake— The Horrible Dream— The Lost Man Found— The Unexpected Meeting with a Bull Moose

Chapter IX

A Shot at a Bull Moose-Following the Moose-Trail-Moose-calling -Breaking Camp on Long Lake-Camp on Trajl between Upper Long and Sugar-Bush Lakes-Bad Weather and Consequent Delay —Preparation and Start on the Reconnoissance ,67 CONTENTS. XI PAGE

Chapter X

The First Dinner— Killed a Deer— Following a Moose-Trail— Camped on the Trail — Preparation for spending the Night — Our Lean-to — A Snow-Storm — Long, Dreary Tramp — Discovery of a Moose- Yard — A Highly-Exciting Chase — Killed two Red Deer — A Disgusted and Angry Captain— Honest Toil brings Refreshing Sleep — The Hunt resumed 189

Chapter XI

The Discovery of Moose — The Killing of two Moose and the Wounding of Another — Our Camp on Moose Hill — The Return to Sugar- Bush Lake — A Severe Rain-Storm — Return to Moose Hill — The Dead Moose Photographed — Another Expedition — The Bear — A Snow-Storm — A Hard Tramp 210

Chapter XII

The Bear which was not killed — Following the Moose — The Captain killed the Bull Moose — Packing out of the Woods — The Rest at Harkness's Shack — A Hard Tramp — Burk's Falls — A Deer-Hunt — Another Trip to Canada in the Company of my Son, a Lad of Fifteen — Teaching the Boy to Shoot — Killed his First Deer — An Exciting Chase — The Old Doe makes her Escape .... 235

Chapter XIII

The Continuance of the Deer-Hunt — An Exciting Chase — Brilliant Manœuvring of an Old Buck— Breaking Camp on the Island — A Partridge-Hunt by the Roadside — An Exciting Race between " Jim" and the Old Cocker-Spaniel — Our Return to Maganetawan — The Trip from Maganetawan to Toronto LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. Camp on Long Lake Frontispiece. " We immediately walked up to the office, each carrying a double-barrelled shot-gun, followed by three hunting-dogs" Page 15 " Say nothing about the condition of our clothing" ... "29 Swallowing fish and fish-stories "48 " He has evaded the dog, but — " "52 "Tuesday, the Governor and myself each shot a deer" . "67 " It is a serious thing to get lost in the wilds of Canada" . " 76 a wedding in the wilderness "95 " i don't believe she knows that she is wanted" ...

" i08 we are ready for the journey ....... " i29 " he shot the deer just as it broke from cover" ... " i33 Beaver-dam and house "150 "The first glance which I obtained of this huge animal was while he was standing with his side towards me" . . " 168 The woods are full of them " 201 "Fire at him!" " 213 The dead monarch " 217 The nearest settlement ......... " 234 Food for the ravens left by bruin « 236 a hard tramp — homeward bound " 242 "we found them standing on the dry ground, while the doe WAS LYING AT THEIR FEET AN^LTIJ^. HOUNDS WERE FAWNING ABOUT THEM" . . . (..., 'O « 26? The dead doe . . . I 27 SP -V<± \ « 267 That retriever . . . \v?. ' . ' "285 xi OR, THE LAKE LANDS OF CANADA.

Chapter I

Recreation and its Objects — Classification of Hunters — Active Exercise an Excellent Remedy for Obesity — Sport at Shelbyville, Tenn. — What Occurred at the Evans House — A Friend in Need is a Friend Indeed — Home Once More. Ifc HE prudent business man, i before making an investment or inaugurating any important change in his affairs, is accustomed to ask the question, Will it pay? Is it a good investment? The same question may be properly asked by any person prior to his de parture for the great forests of the Dominion of Canada. The answer to this query must generally depend on the physical condition of the individual and his apprecia- I tion of the sports which are obtainable in these grand forests. Man, in all conditions of life, after prolonged and earnest toil, requires recreation, — i.e., a refreshment of strength and spirits; but this cannot always be obtain able in the same way.

The overwrought workingman, in the full possession of physical energy, in perfect health, and possessed of the ordinary amount of physical strength, does not require the same sort of recreation as the sedentary, overworked student, professional or business man. In the former instance, a few days' rest, with an increased amount of sleep, serves to fully restore the temporarily depressed physical and mental vigor. The intelligent practice of the fatigued German workingman, who gathers his family about him and hies away to some neighboring grove, where he spends a peaceful and quiet holiday, thus obtaining pure air and rest, cannot be too highly commended. The whole family having spent a pleasant and profitable day in the open air, commonly return to their overcrowded and badly ventilated apartments in the early evening; each member of the family being better satisfied with himself, and what is still better, satisfied with the others, they now partake of their frugal meal, and retire early to their humble cots, where they may sleep soundly, suffering neither from in somnia nor frightful dreams, but awake in the morning completely refreshed.

Consequently the Sabbath comes to the workingman as a complete restorer, as a day of perfect recreation. Physical exertion commonly produces only bodily fatigue, while the vital organs are maintained by the same power in a healthy state, and their various functions are performed in the best possible manner. It is therefore apparent that the physical condition of workingmen is not generally such as to require the active exercise which the hunter gains by the Canadian chase, especially when stalking his game ; but a high appreciation of the sport may be an ample compensation for every expenditure. It may be mentioned in this connection that various hunting-parties seek recreation in the forest in divers ways ; and consequently it is necessary to offer on this point an explanation for the benefit of the uninitiated, although no attempt will be made to give a complete classification.

The heterogeneous mass of men entering the forest with guns and dogs are generally supposed to be hunters, but in fact among these may be frequently found men whose peculiarities of mind and tastes are more nearly allied to those of Oscar Wilde than to those of Daniel Boone. It is therefore natural that these game-seekers should be continually looking for a hunter's paradise in the shape of a first-class hotel, in the midst of a grand forest, from the porticoes of which can be shot the great moose, the beautiful deer, and all the other species of smaller game, while the same must be acces sible by an elegant steamer or grand palace-car. This class of hunters are continually fault-finding, are never happy, and seem to wish their companions to be as miserable as themselves. They never enter the woods without returning to their homes disgusted and thoroughly dissatisfied.

Another class, commonly calling themselves sportsmen, frequently start from their homes heavily laden with kegs, demijohns, and numerous boxes well filled with bottles; and it may here be 'added that their luggage conveys a correct idea of the recreation which they may be expected to obtain when partially withdrawn from the restrictions imposed upon them by the rules of civilization. It will not be necessary for the accomplishment of their purpose that they should traverse wide tracts of wilderness, or be supplied with the most im proved guns, the best dogs, or a large amount of food, since the free imbibition of the spirits with which they are so abundantly supplied will assuredly give them a highly spiritual nature, in which condition they should not be expected to join in the chase or perform any other acts which commonly characterize the ordinary corporeal man.

It will therefore be sufficient for their purposes that they withdraw from our crowded thoroughfares to some quiet nook, village, or grove', where, in cabin or tent, surrounded by some congenial guides, — boon companions, — they suc ceed in whiling away a few days or weeks in a style which has always honored the memory of Tarn O'Shanter. It is not very unusual, even among these parties, when the effects of their deep imbibition have passed away, to find them engaged in target-practice, and they may occa sionally sally forth for a few hours in search of game. It is generally a matter of some pride with these so-called sportsmen to be able to say that they shot, during their sojourn in the land of game, one or more deer, and to accomplish this purpose it is said to be not an infrequent practice with them to send out their guides with instructions to purchase one of these desirable animals, which had been previously taken in the chase by some other hunter ; the bargain having been made, the deer is brought to the ambitious sportsman, who then fires a charge of buck-shot or a rifle-bullet into the dead carcass, and on this act his claim to have shot or killed the much-coveted game is based.

Having now mentioned some of the characteristics of the pseudo-sportsman, we turn, with increased pleasure, to a consideration of the more noble character, — the true hunter. The true hunter, in many particulars, resembles the true soldier, and in several respects their lives are es sentially the same : both are inured to hardships and like wise exposed to dangers, while unusual fatigue, severe and often prolonged deprivation, are their common lot. Both are stimulated by conquest and likewise depressed by failure. The true hunter's enthusiasm, like the true sol dier's, resembles, in some respects, the spirit which ani mates, under certain circumstances, the old war-horse and the decrepit hunting-dog. Instances are occasionally related in which a noble charger has been compelled by ad verse circumstances to accept service on the farm in his old age ; but even now, when harnessed to the plough, we are told that this noble animal is frequently so excited by the bugle-notes sounding the cavalry charge that he rears his head and tail, cocks his ears, and dashes away in search of an unseen enemy, — showing that he has not yet lost his fires of youth, and that he still desires to participate in the bloody work of war, — to hear the boom of the cannon, the rattlinoshots of the carbine, or to see the flashes of the glittering sabres.

The old, decrepit hunting-dog, half blinded by age, stiffened in every limb by rheumatism, having been compelled by infirmities to remain in the kitchen corner for years, is aroused to a new life by the click of a gun-lock, raises his eyes towards his master's face, staggers to his feet, and once more expresses his love of the chase by jumping about the hunter's limbs, lovingly caressing his hands, and following on with the other dogs, hunting through field and forest until his strength com pletely fails, then uttering a dismal howl, — proclaiming his disappointment and rage caused by his inability to go farther, — falls to the ground and frequently fails to reach again the kitchen corner, but is often mercifully relieved from further suffering by death in this last effort. The true sportsman is possessed of a high degree of enthusiasm, — he joins in the chase because it gives him pleasure, — ex citement which it produces causes him to forget, for the time, hunger and fatigue.

He therefore follows the game from morning until night. His food is commonly plain, but nutritious, still no one enjoys eating more than the sports man, since his system has been fully prepared for the food, and it may be further added that the food is adapted for the wants of the body. The hunter makes his bed on smooth mother-earth, spreads his rubber blanket over the sweet-scented balsam branches, or should his time be too much occupied with other matters, then these branches will be omitted, but without seriously interfering with his repose. It is important to remember in this connection that those who have lived a sedentary and studious life are particu larly prone to suffer from various forms of dyspepsia and likewise insomnia. It may also be boldly asserted at this point, without entering into any long inquiry bearing on the etwlogical or pathological conditions of these morbid states, that the man who will engage in the chase with all the en thusiasm of a true sportsman, and will follow the same a few months, will certainly find more benefit from this course of procedure than could possibly be obtained by the most sys tematic restrictions in the use of food.

Active exercise thus obtained will efficiently relieve obesity and also develop the muscular system. In this manner it is entirely practical, and at the same time free from danger, to reduce the weight to any desired standard, and that, too, while the diet is wholly unrestrained, except by the exigencies which are inseparable from the life of a hunter in the forest, more or less removed from the luxuries of modern civilization. In this instance a re duction of weight is effected almost entirely by the active and prolonged exercise, which, instead of being a drudgery hard to be borne, is a noble sort of labor which gives rise to the most pleasant thoughts, and at the same time gratifies an exalted ambition. The literary man who joins in the chase with true sportsmen will very soon discover that hunting is both a science and an art ; and consequently this pastime supplies him with the necessary occupation for both body and mind.

The modus operandi by which it is accomplished is easily comprehended by any thoughtful person. The loss of adipose tissue depends almost entirely, in this case, on the exercise taken, while the increased muscular development is due to the same agency. It will therefore be observed that depriving sat patients of certain sorts of food which are frequently considered by them as essential to their happiness is not required by this method of treatment. The athlete generally depends for the reduction of weight on this system of active exercise rather than on any restrictions of diet. Furthermore, there is no doubt that if this simple method of treating obesity was fully understood it would be very popular with those affected with a tendency to an over-accumulation of fat, since per sonal deformity would thus be avoided, and the individual so relieved would be enabled to perform his role in life as a worker and bread-winner with increased ease.

The science of cookery has now attained to such a degree of perfection as to promote epicurean tastes, and likewise to lead to extensive gormandizing, especially among the rich and those of sedentary habits. Its evil effects become most apparent in middle life, while it can not be denied that in many instances it is carried forward into old age. During childhood and early life, the age of great physical activity, obesity is rarely seen. This fact speaks volumes in favor of active physical exercise as an agency for the prevention of obesity ; but it is not to be supposed that every person overburdened with fat will possess the required energy to exercise sufficiently to materially diminish this undesirable burden. Many of them will be seen waddling about our cities, even when the temperature is below seventy degrees Fahrenheit, puffing and blowing like a wind-broken horse while being exercised, and when the weather becomes warmer these unfortunate mortals are compelled to employ fans, seek rest in shady nooks, imbibe ice-water and other coolingdrinks in order to relieve, so far as possible, their present misery.

The efforts made by these very corpulent persons to secure merely present relief forcibly remind me of the action of an over-fattened hog on a hot July day, when it half buries itself in the cool earth, mud,, or any other cooling substance which may be accessible to the poor sufferer, and in which it commonly remains, uttering only an occasional grunt, until food is again placed before it, when it once more gorges itself. So lives our typical fat man. So lives our over-fattened hog. Both live only to eat, but do not eat to live. Let it be ever remembered that physical activity is antagonistic -to an excessive accu mulation of fat in the whole animal creation, and, consequently, the ever-active weasel, fox, and many other active animals which might be mentioned are never burdened with obesity.

It may be boldly asserted that physical activity is the very best prophylactic agent which has ever been employed against obesity, and that it is also entitled to a high rank as a curative means in the treatment of the same morbid condition. It must be evident to every thinking person that the time spent by our overworked sedentary students, professional and business men at Long Branch, Newport, Saratoga, and other fashionable resorts does not yield them ample returns : it does not supply them with com plete recreation, but only idleness, — a condition of things better calculated to do good to the overworked farmer and mechanic. This remark is likewise applicable to the majority of the middle-aged ladies who are found lounging away their time in these places, while the younger ladies, who dance, ride on horseback, and otherwise exercise, cannot be placed in the same category.

There are certain conditions which are absolutely necessary to a high degree of bodily health, and among them may be mentioned, as being of the highest impor tance, physical exercise, pure air, the proper quantity of wholesome food, and sufficient sleep. Having given our attention to the subject of obesity, we will now turn to the consideration of some of the affections connected with the alimentary canal and nervous system. These diseases are specially common among sedentary persons and those engaged in literary pursuits ; therefore professional and business men are frequently their victims. I am able to call to mind the case of a lawyer who has always been very irregular in regard to the quality and quantity of food which he has taken since he commenced the practice of his profession, and, as might naturally be anticipated, inasmuch as he has entirely dis regarded all the well-known laws of digestion for about fifteen years, he is now paying the penalty which is required of those who violate these natural regulations, since he suffers severely from dyspepsia.

However, it should not be inferred that his disregard of the natural laws has been fully and specifically expressed in the above statement, since, in addition to what has already been said, it should have been added that he has generally regulated his hours for sleep by the amount of time which he has been able to spare from study and other mental efforts ; and inasmuch as he has never been able to keep up with these demands, his hours for repose have been generally insufficient and very irregular. Let us now enter more specifically into a consideration of his irregularities of diet, and it may be here assumed, for the purpose of illustrating our subject, that this busy man has been accustomed to rise at six o'clock in the morning, breakfast hurriedly on a cold potato, rush off to business, keep himself at the boiling heat of excitement until one p.m., when he may enter some eating-house, swallow quickly some sauer-kraut and ice-cream, going through about the same business performance in the afternoon as in the morning, maintaining about the same temperature ; but when six o'clock p.m. is reached you may possibly find him sitting down at a well-provided table, bolting, as rapidly as possible, his dinner, that he may be able to spend at least six hours after this meal in studying a case which he is expected to try in court the following day.

I have been informed, however, that he occasionally misses a dinner, and that if search be made in his bedroom you will find him there, lamenting his sad fate and complaining loudly of a severe pain in his abdomen. The same gentle man further disregards the rules of health by an intem perate use of tobacco, — chewing as well as smoking, — and frequently entering the dining-room while using the weed, which he only discards in time to begin the mastication of food. Is it strange that this gentleman, having followed such a life for about fifteen years, should now find himself suffering with dyspepsia, insomnia, and hypochon driasis ? Is it not strange, on the contrary, that he is still living? The practical question which now presents itself for our consideration is, How can he be benefited ?

Does he require medicine ? The answer to this question must be emphatically, no! He must have recreation, and having been thus brought into a healthy state, he must then be brought to obey the laws of ?iature, to live and work like a rational man. The unexplored wilderness affords the most inviting field for the required recreation in these cases, and offers, at the same time, the most favorable conditions for the restoration of this class of cases, especially if the patient can be prevailed upon to lead the life of an active, indus trious hunter. In the wilderness the patient is removed from every temptation to any sort of mental labor ; he is undisturbed by business or any other outside communications, since he is far from post-office or telegraph. The new order of business, if engaged in stalking game, is tramp, tramp, during the live-long day, while the mind is occupied with pleasant anticipations of prospective or present sport ; the blood courses through its vessels with unwonted vigor, the lungs are fully and rapidly inflated with pure air, which very seldom happens among sedentary persons, although so important to the health of all classes ; a wholesome appetite is engendered by this active exercise, and after spending a delightful evening around the brightly blazing camp-fire, where a rehearsal of the adventures of the day, with story and song, enliven the hour, the sportsman retires to his couch beneath his canvas tent or lean-to, where his blankets have been spread for him by his guides on balsam boughs which are giving forth their agreeable perfume.

On these he soon falls asleep without rocking or song, — sleeps during the entire night, and awakens in the morning fully refreshed and prepared for another day's toil. Thus passes day after day with the true sportsman in the forest. Illustrating the health-giving power of active exercise, the author will here briefly refer to a trip which he re cently made to Shelbyville, Tennessee, in company with his legal friend whose case has already been mentioned ; and here it should be also stated that this lawyer had ter minated, on the day of his departure for the South, a series of important trials, and was, therefore, in a highly nervous state. This nervous excitability was very marked in all his movements and doings during our journey. We reached War Trace about three o'clock in the morn ing, rested until six a.m., when we started out with our guns and dogs for Shelbyville, distant from the former place about eight miles.

We had determined to spend the day with the quail, which are very abundant in this part of the State, and to bring up in time for the evening meal at the Evans House in Shelbyville. It was a warm autumn day, but the excitement of the sport kept us pretty steadily in motion. It was not, therefore, until late in the afternoon when we began to think of food, rest, and shelter ; and now, inasmuch as we had made a good bag of birds, it seemed entirely proper to abandon any further search for game and take the direct route for the hotel, which was reached about five o'clock. The moment we left the fields, en tered the road, and began to plod along towards our destination, the spirit of the sportsman immediately abandoned us, and then we realized that we were sorely fatigued: every step was painful, the walking was miser able drudgery; we walked a few rods and then halted; started on again; our progress was slow, but we could not remain where we were, — we must go forward.

The desired haven was at last reached. We immediately walked up to the office, each carrying a double-barrelled shot-gun, followed by three hunting-dogs, registered our names and that of the gunner who accompanied us, asked for our rooms, to which we were promptly conducted, threw off some portions of our wardrobe which had been burdensome during the greater part of the day, indulged momentarily in a brevet-bath, dropped without further delay on the beds with which our rooms were provided, and within ten minutes each man in the party was sleeping soundly, and continued to sleep for about two hours, when we were called to the evening meal, arose from our beds greatly refreshed, made our toilets, after which we partook of a hearty meal and again returned to our rooms, where we recounted some of the events of the day, then retired in good order to our couches, where we all slept soundly during the entire night, my legal friend forgetting for the time being that he had ever suffered from insomnia or anything else.