Journey across the Western interior of Australia. ... With an introduction and additions, by C. H. Eden ... Edited by H. W. Bates. ... With illustrations and a map

Introduction

and ADDITIONS, By CHARLES H. EDEN, Esq. AUTHOR OP "MT WIFE AND I IN QUEENSLAND." Edited by H. W. BATES, Esq. ASSISTANT SECRETARY OF TIIE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL Sorj r i V WITH ILLUSTRATIONS AND A MAP. The Warburton Beetle (Siigmodera Murray!) JLonnon : SAMPSON LOW, MARSTON, LOW, & SEARLE, CROWN BUILDINGS, 188, FLEET STREET. 1875. [All rights reserved.]

Preface

. BY THE EDITOR. The form in which the present account of Colonel Warburton's remarkable journey across the Western Interior of Australia is given to the public, requires a few words of explanation. The gallant leader of the expedition, on his return to Adelaide, enfeebled by the privations and sufferings of his long journey, had little inclination to pen a full narrative of the expedition. He fulfilled the duty of rendering a Report of his proceedings, in the form of extracts from his Journal, to Messrs Elder and Hughes, the gentle men who bore the expenses of the undertaking ; but he had neither health nor desire to undergo the further literary labour necessary to elaborate a complete narrative for general readers. The

PREFACE.

. VI promoters of the expedition, however, justly thouo-ht that some account of the first successful attempt to traverse this vast unknown region — all efforts to penetrate which had previously been baffled — was deserving of permanent record, and would be likely to interest a large section of the reading public ; they transmitted, therefore, the original Report to England for publication, with a recommendation that it should be accompanied by a narrative of the more important of the many previous explorations in the same region. Colonel Warburton himself subsequently, in November last, visited his native land, after an absence of more than forty years, and consented to this arrangement, selecting his relative, Mr. Charles H. Eden, who — from his knowledge of Australia, obtained during a residence of some years in Queens land — was well qualified for such a task, to write the required account of previous explorations, which account forms the Introduction to the present volume.

During his brief stay in London, of less than six weeks, Colonel Warburton was able to add but little to the information supplied by his Report ; his failing eyesight, caused by the fearful sufferings of his journey, rendering

PREFACE.

. VII him incapable of writing. Verbally, however, he supplied matter of considerable interest and importance, which Mr. Eden has either interwoven into his introductory chapters, or interpolated, within parentheses, in the Journal. Some few amplifications of Colonel Warburton's own state ments or descriptions, supplied in the same way, have been incorporated, at the discretion of the Editor, in the text of the Journal itself. The majority of readers will, no doubt, see reason for satisfaction in the circumstance that the efforts and struggles of the gallant party, with all their hopes and fears when a lingering death seemed their inevitable fate, are here given exactly as jotted down by the leader, whilst the agony was fresh in his mind. To such the evident fidelity and absence of exaggeration of Colonel Warburton's style will be an additional charm.

To Mr. Eden's very interesting summary of previous explorations, it needs only to be added that the numerous efforts on the part of the Government and Colonists of Western Aus tralia to penetrate from their side the desert interior, have at 'length been crowned with success

PREFACE.

. in the brilliant exploit of Mr. John Forrest, who, starting at about the time of the completion of Colonel Warburton's traverse, struck across the terra incognita at a part where it is much wider than where crossed by Warburton, and arrived safely at the Peake Station, on the line of the overland telegraph. The spirit of Geographical Exploration in Western Australia, which in former years had given rise to the remarkable expeditions of Roe, Lefroy, and Hunt, has of late,years been greatly encouraged by Governor Weld, under whom the two Forrests, John and Alexander, have successively pushed their investigation farther and farther into the waste of salt-swamps, which seems to occupy the greater part of the interior due east from the Swan River settlements. In 1870 Mr. John Forrest had repeated Mr. Eyre's feat of journeying completely round the Great Bight (from West to East), happily experiencing scarcely any of the hardships which were nearly proving fatal to the whole of the party of the earlier explorer.

The relatives of Colonel Warburton, to whom, on his return to Australia, the final arrangements of the present work were confided, desire to ex- ACE. IX press their especial thanks to Professor Owen, Dr. Hooker, Mr. J. Gould, and Dr. Henry Trimen (of the Botanical Department of the British Museum), for the assistance they have rendered in determining the species of animals and plants mentioned in the Journal, and in furnishing notes in elucidation of various points. The illustrations are by Mr. Ulick J. Burke. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE Portrait of Colonel Egerton Warburton Frontispiece The Warburton Beetle (Stigmodera Murrayi) Title-page The Start 140 Twenty-fourth of May ..... 165 The Dust Storm 194 Facing the Enemy .231 March during an Eclipse 248 Worn out by Starvation .... . 258 The Last Camel ... ... 284 The Relief . 290 Maiof Colonel Warburton's Route.

INTRODUCTION.

. RY CHARLES H. EDEN.

Chapter I

iVestern Interior of Australia. — Settlement of^sr-^Rivei.— Foundation of the colony of South At**, -,..<< — Various opinions regarding the interior. In the slight sketch of Australian Exploration that I propose to lay before the reader as an introduction to the Journal of Colonel Egerton Warbur ton, I shall confine myself entirely to the western half of the Continent, and to the many attempts that have been made by enterprising men to penetrate the mysteries of the interior of that portion. Though Western Australia occupies a larger space upon the map than any of its sister colonies, an observer cannot fail to be struck by the vast extent of unoccupied — even unknown — country that it contains, and this desolation is the more remarkable when it is considered that within B

INTRODUCTION.

. the boundary of this colony are included the earliest discovered portions of the Continent. In 1829 Captain Stirling was appointed Lieu tenant-Governor of the new settlement on the Swan River, and on his arrival in the month of August of that year this officer found a number of anxious immigrants camped on the banks of the Swan and Canning rivers, with no better shelter against the inclemency of the Australian winter than the tents they had brought with them from England. Every month added to their numbers and to the disorder that prevailed. Not an acre of land had been surveyed ; the settlers sat down at random on the river banks ; there's was no money to procure the common necessaries of life from the neighbouring colonies ; even tire Governor and his officials received large grants of land instead of a salary ; and to add to the distress, the immigrants were of a class unaccustomed to manual labour, and totally unfitted for the arduous task of founding a new settlement.

By March, 1830, fifty ships, containing two thousand people with property — not money— to the amount of 100,000/., had arrived, and as yet hardly twenty houses were standing at the new township of Perth for their accommodation. Many of the

INTRODUCTION.

. disappointed adventurers found their way to the adjoining colonies, and for twenty years the remainder fought manfully for existence ; yet so hard was the struggle, and such the depression prevailing, that even so late as 1848 the inhabitants seriously entertained the project of abandoning the settlement for good. When the neighbouring colonies protested against the dregs of the population being landed on their shores from the mother country, Western Australia petitioned for them, and since the introduction of convict labour her position has vastly improved; but still the energy of the colonists has been fettered by the nature of the country and the small area of agricultural and pastoral land yet discovered. Western Australia is ill adapted to the extensive pursuit of agriculture, and, from the arid nature of the soil, the grasses are scantier and less succulent than in the eastern colonies, hence the quantity of wool at present exported is trifling when compared with the enormous weight annually yielded by her more favoured sisters.

In 1852 Governor Fitzgerald wrote, " I fear that unless new grasses spring up, or are introduced into our pastures, we shall never be able to rival in this respect the production of the eastern b

INTRODUCTION.

. colonies. Our lands fit for sheep are so small in extent in proportion to the rest of the colony, that a limit will soon be arrived at unless better pastures be discovered. Should such exist, they probably lie far to the North-east." South Australia was founded in 1836, and after the reverses always inseparable from the infancy of a settlement, she rapidly rose into a wealthy and populous colony. The land was found admirably adapted to the growth of cereals, and enormous mineral wealth — chiefly copper — was discovered within her bounds ; but after a time the mines were found only to employ a certain number of hands, and the wheat-fields became im poverished from constantly bearing so exhaustive a crop. The South Australian statesmen were not slow to remark this, and immediately all their energy was devoted to the only remedy — the discovery of fresh lands towards the interior.

Party after party went forth to struggle with the fearful difficulties of penetrating the desert regions to the north-east and north, and returned baffled yet not beaten. In spite of every obstacle, daring men persevered where success seemed impossible, and after repeated repulses the great end was achieved, and not only a road, but a telegraph-

INTRODUCTION.

. line now stretches across the breadth of the entire Continent, from Adelaide to the northern sea-board. A volume would hardly suffice to chronicle the deeds of these intrepid explorers, and in the slight sketch which follows, it is only attempted to give a brief account of two or three of the most pro minent amongst their number. After Stuart had finally succeeded in opening out a route, and more particularly since the establishment of the telegraph-line, a new base was presented for western exploration, and both South and Western Australia threw themselves heart and soul into the task of opening out over land communication. Dr. G. Neumayer, in a paper advocating the scientific exploration of Central Australia, read before the Royal Geo graphical Society on 8th June, 1868, says, " A glance at the map shows us what an immense tract of land is entirely unknown.

Indeed, we might describe a circle in the portion lying to the west of Stuart's track, enclosing an area of half a million of square miles, of which our knowledge is absolutely nil. We should form a more adequate estimate of the fact, if we considered that this is at the same time the greatest absolute blank on the face of the globe — the polar regions excepted ;

INTRODUCTION.

. as we know more even of that great tract of country on the African Continent which lies south of the equator and near the western coast. This ' Terra Australiensis incognita ' is somewhat less than one-fifth of the entire Continent, and forms the western slope of what we are justified — according to all appearances — in terming the Great Interior Basin." This gentleman, speaking of Western Australia and the small settlements on the north-west coast, says, " It is not difficult to see that these colonies, separated as they are from their eastern sisters by a vast unknown territory, will have to struggle hard to make any progress ; indeed, such progress is scarcely possible unless they extend their territory towards and across the water-shed of the interior basin, and unless overland communication be established between them and the other colonies."

Dr. Neumayer had no doubt whatever that an exploration of that great blank on our map would materially assist, nay establish, such a communication — practicable at all seasons — for the mutual benefit of the colonies, and give thereby a fresh impetus to the spirit of enterprise in the country. From the above remarks, which embody the opinion of most of the colonists, it will be seen

INTRODUCTION.

. that an overland route from east to west would be of incalculable advantage to the inhabitants of both regions, South Australia has capital lying idle, aud is longing for fresh fields on which to expend it; Western Australia is burning to break through the forbidding desert that impinges on her very gates, and cripples the energies of her sons. In the discussion on the above paper, Sir Charles Nicholson drew the following conclusion from the expedition of Mr. Forrest towards the interior in 1869 : — " That vast areas of the interior still remain untrodden by any European is an undoubted fact; an ample supply of data exists, however, enabling us to predicate with some degree of certainty as to the probable physical and geographical characteristics of the regions yet untra versed by civilized man; and there is little to justify any expectation that these will be found to differ in character from the inhospitable wilderness, from the confines of which so many enterprising travellers have been obliged to turn their steps, and on the borders of which not a few have perished. It may, I think, be reasonably assumed, that the whole interior region west of the 140th degree of east longitude,

INTRODUCTION.

. and north of the 30th degree of south latitude, is of the most unpromising kind ; that it is without rivers, without mountains, forming an inhospitable and dreary desert, similar to that traversed by Stuart, Sturt, Burke, Wills, and Mr. Forrest ; and I cannot forbear expressing my conviction that, beyond the desirability of simply determining the fact — and all knowledge, even of a negative character is desirable — that there is little to tempt or repay an explorer in the desolate region included within the limits above mentioned. Portions — perhaps, not inconsiderable tracts — may be found along the coast, and extending for a few miles inland on the northern and western shores ; but they will, I believe, be found to be a mere fringe, surrounding a widespread Sahara." That the speaker formed a most correct estimate of the interior — as at present known — is undeniable; but, despite his forecast, we may venture to think that not until every means have been adopted to ascertain beyond the possibility of a doubt the non existence of an overland route from east to west, should the attempt to gain that great end be abandoned. How little did Sturt, when baffled and impeded by the stony desert, dream of the country now laid open by Stuart lying a few

INTRODUCTION.

. hundred miles before him ! and may we not at least hope that endurance and energy will develope a similar belt connecting the east with the west ? It is yet early in the day to predict the im possibility of such an achievement. Even at this moment, rumours of a successful journey from Western to Southern Australia have reached England. Ernest Giles has shown that the interior is not the blank wilderness that we have hitherto supposed, and who knows what future explorations may not bring forth ? Let us hope for the best, and in the interim a brief account of the earliest attempts to pierce the western in terior can scarcely fail to interest the reader.

Chapter II

Eyre's journey along the shores of the Great Bight. By the year 1840 both Perth and Adelaide were sufficiently advanced to contemplate an overland road between the two colonies. A gentleman was then residing in South Australia, whose name had become known in the colony as a daring explorer, and whose tenacity of purpose and steadfastness in following up jiny undertaking to which he directed his thoughts, had already become widely known. This man was Edward John Eyre, the friend of Sturt, and the father of Western Australian exploration. The principal object hoped to be attained by the expedition was the opening a route by which stock could be transmitted from one colony to the other. During the previous year Mr. Eyre had carefully examined the country westward of the then settled districts, and con vinced himself of the utter impracticability of

INTRODUCTION.

. opening an overland route for stock in that direction. From his personal observation he inclined to break ground towards the north in preference to the west; hence, on the 23rd May, 1840, he wrote the following remarkable letter to the Sotith Australian Register, in which his sagacity, and thorough knowledge of his subject are equally apparent : — " It may now therefore be a question for those who are interested in the sending an expedition overland to the Swan River, to consider what are likely to be the useful results from such a journey. In a geographical point of view it will be exceedingly interesting to know the character of the intervening country between this colony and theirs, and to unfold the secrets hidden by those lofty and singular cliffs at the head of the Great Bight, and so far, it might perhaps be practicable, since it is possible that a light party might, in a favourable season, force their way across ; as regards the transit of stock, however, my own conviction is that it is quite impracticable.

The vast extent of desert country to the westward, the scarcity of grass, the dense ness of the scrub, and the all but total absence of water, even in the most favourable seasons, are in themselves sufficient bars to the transit of stock,

INTRODUCTION.

. even to a distance we are already acquainted with; I would rather, therefore, turn the public attention to the northward, as being the most probable point from which discoveries of importance may be made, or such as are likely to prove beneficial to this and the other colonies, and from which it is possible the veil may be lifted from the still unknown and mysterious interior of this vast Continent." Any suggestion emanating from such a man as Eyre was certain to be received by the colonists with respect, and the public attention, consequent on this letter, became centred in northern exploration. Feeling that this change in opinion was chiefly owing to himself, Mr. Eyre at once volunteered to lead a party into the interior. His offer was accepted, an exploration fund instituted, to which the inhabitants freely contributed, the Government furthering the undertaking by a grant of 1001. , and every assistance that lay within their power ; and, to use Mr. Eyre's own words, "My arrangements proceeded rapidly and un remittingly, whilst the kindness of the Governor, the committee of colonists, my private friends, and the public generally, relieved me of many difficulties, and facilitated my preparations in a

INTRODUCTION.

. manner that I could hardly have hoped or expected." It will be seen from the above how early in its history South Australia lent its capital and its energy to tho task of opening up the central portion of the Continent. That this public spirit is still extant, I think the sequel of this volume will show. On the 18th of June the party, consisting of six Europeans and two black boys, started forth, accompanied for some distance by the Governor and most of the leading inhabitants. Mr. Eyre's intention was to examine Lake Torrens in the first place, and then to push northward; many and various were the conjectures then rife concerning the great interior. Some thought that a vast inland sea would be discovered, an Australian Mediterranean, by means of which communication could be established with the habitable belt fringing the Northern coast.

A few desponding people were inclined to think the adventurers would en counter a huge salt-pan, lying white and glisten ing in the sun, and forbidding farther progress. Captain Sturt differed from both these opinions. I quote a speech made by him at the time. " With regard to an observation which he (Captain Sturt)

INTRODUCTION.

. had made on Friday evening, regarding this Continent having been formerly an Archipelago, he stated that he was of opinion that a considerable space of barren land in all probability existed between this district and what had formerly been the next island. This space was likely to be barren, though of course it would be impossible to say how far it extended. He had every reason to believe, from what he had seen of the Australian Continent, that at some distance to the northward a large tract of barren country would be found, or perhaps a body of water, beyond which a good country would in all probability exist." For months Mr. Eyre and his party struggled to penetrate northward ; but in every direction Lake Torrens, overlapping them like a monster horseshoe, checked their progress. Owing to the extreme rarefaction of the atmosphere, everything wore a distorted aspect; what had from a distance appeared as rocks, turning on inspection into very small lumps of dirt or clay lying in the bed of the lake.

The lake was penetrated for six miles, and so far found devoid of surface-water. It was nothing but a bed of mud, becoming softer and softer as the party advanced, which they perse-

INTRODUCTION.

. 15 vered in doing until the horses sinking in the slime up to their bellies rendered their return imperative. The whole of this surface of mud was covered with a coating of salt about one-eighth of an inch in thickness; a glittering belt, dazzling to the eye, but heart-breaking to the explorer. As further efforts in that direction would have been in vain, the party struck westward, and reached " Fowler's Bay," in the Great Bight. From this point they tried to push round the head of the Bight, being driven back twice from want of water, but in a third attempt Eyre was more successful, and managed to penetrate fifty miles along the coast beyond the northern point of the ocean. These repeated efforts had cost the expedition dear, for they lost their best horses, which rendered it impossible to carry provisions for so large a party.

The leader was therefore reluctantly compelled to send some of their number back in the small Government cutter which had been placed at his disposal. During the absence of the little vessel Eyre meditated bitterly on the obstacles that had hitherto impeded his progress, and came to the desperate determination that on the return of the cutter with forage he would make his way round the Great Bight to Western Australia with pack-

INTRODUCTION.

. horses only, a distance exceeding 1000 miles of trackless desert. On the 26th January, 1841, the boat returned, having on board a favourite black boy of Mr. Eyre's, a native of King George's Sound, named Wylie. She also brought a letter from the Go vernor, informing him that the cutter could not be employed outside South Australian waters, though she was perfectly at his disposal within their limits. This was a bitter disappointment, and completely frustrated his plans. To take his already reduced party across the desert would now be impossible, for the horses could not carry food enough to support them. Only one means remained, and to this Mr. Eyre was compelled to resort, viz. to still further reduce his following. On the 31st January the cutter sailed, every man on board her watching with straining eyes the small party on the beach.

With only one white companion the gallant leader had determined to traverse that fearful wilderness, " firmly determined never to return unsuccessful, but either to accomplish the object he had in view or to perish in the attempt," and now only waited the restoration of the horses to good condition, to sally forth into the desert. In explaining his motives for the change in the

INTRODUCTION.

. 17 destination of his expedition, Mr. Eyre says, — " It will be remembered, that in stating the origin and commencement of the northern expedition, it was remarked that a previously contemplated expedition to the westward was made to give way to it, and that I had myself been principally in strumental in changing the direction of public attention from the one to the other; it will be remembered also what publicity had been given to our departure, how great was the interest felt in the progress of our labours, and how sanguine were the expectations formed as to the results; alas, how signally had these hopes been dashed to the ground! After the toils, anxieties, and privations of eight months, neither useful nor valuable discoveries had been made; hemmed in by an imprac ticable desert, or the bed of an impassable lake, I had been baffled and defeated in every direction, and to have returned now would have been to have rendered of no avail the great expenses that had been incurred in the outfit of the expedition, to have thrown away the only opportunity pre sented to me of making some amends for past failure, and of endeavouring to justify the con fidence that had been reposed in me, by carrying through the exploration which had been originally c

INTRODUCTION.

. contemplated to the westward, now it was no longer possible to accomplish that to the north, for which it had given place; I considered myself in duty and honour bound, not to turn back from this attempt as long as there was the remotest possibility of success, without any regard to con siderations of a personal or private nature." Once again the cutter glided into the bay, just as the horses were beginning to look like work. Mr. Scott had been sent with letters both from the Governor and from private friends, entreating the explorer to desist from his terrible adventure ; but no argument could shake the resolution he had formed, and on February 25th, whilst the little vessel was still in the bay, the last adieux were made and the party set off, consisting in all of two Europeans, three black boys, nine horses, one Timor pony, one foal and six sheep.

The flour was calculated for nine weeks, at an allowance of six pounds a week each, with a proportionate quantity of tea and sugar. For the first few days the route was compara tively easy, for the ground had been traversed before; but it had been ascertained from the natives that, after leaving some water in the sand hills which they reached on 3rd March, they would

INTRODUCTION.

. 19 have a task of great difficulty to get the sheep and horses on to the next water. On this account, Mr. Eyre bravely determined to precede the party in order that by finding out where the water lay, he might be enabled to guide them at once to it, by which means no time would require to be wasted in searching. Accordingly, accompanied by only one black boy, with two horses, and driving the sheep before them, the leader started on the 7th March. One horse carried the pro visions, the other it was intended should be ridden turn and turn about, but the boy being young and incapable of much fatigue, most of the walking fell to Mr. Eyre's share. By the evening of the 8th they had made fifty miles ; the horses now began to feel the want of water, and refused to eat. The following day twenty-fivo miles were made, and they then rested for a couple of hours, pushing on eighteen miles farther by moonlight, but on the morning of the 10th were compelled to halt from downright exhaustion and fatigue.

The boy was so tired that he could hardly sit on his horse, and Eyre found himself actually dozing as he walked. It was now judged that they had travelled ninety three miles, and could not therefore be very far from water. After two hours' heavy sleep they c

INTRODUCTION.

. again set out, every moment expecting to see a break in the line of cliffs along which they had now toiled so far. Alas! they still continued stretching as far as the eye could see to the west ward, and as fast as they arrived at one point, it was but to be met with the view of another be yond. Thus hour after hour passed away, mile after mile was traversed, and yet no change was observable. By noon, 110 miles from the last water was reached, and still the country continued the same. The sheep still travelled, but were getting so tired, and their pace was so slow, that it was decided to leave them behind, and, by moving on more rapidly, endeavour to save the lives of their horses and themselves. Setting to work, Mr. Eyre and the boy made a strong enclosure of shrubs, in which they shut up the wretched sheep.

A note was hastily written to the overseer, directing him to bury the loads of the horses, and hasten on with the animals alone. To attract attention a long stick, to which was attached a red handkerchief, was raised above the sheep-yard, and by one o'clock they were again pursuing their weary way, though much more rapidly than before. In a few miles they came to a well-beaten native road, and hopes were

INTRODUCTION.

. 21 raised that their sufferings would soon be at an end. It was not to be, for the rocky holes to which the track led were dry ! They had now been four days without any water for their horses, their own scanty store was exhausted, and there appeared as little probability of their soon procuring it as there had been two days ago. At dark they had left the sheep-yard fifteen miles behind, and followed another native path, which, like its predecessor, led them only to dry holes in the rock. Staggering onward along the top of the cliffs, the wanderers found a new obstacle to impede their progress, for the country, which had hitherto been tolerably open, now became scrubby, and it was found impossible either to keep a straight course, or to make any way through it in the dark. Still they kept perseveringly onward, leading their horses, and forcing a passage as they best could.