The Five Threes-33,333 miles by land and sea. Holiday notes

Preface

. It will be seen that the contents of the succeeding pages follow no regular plan, but that subjects are set down mostly as they occur. For instance, on one particular day, I see a plantation, hear a legend, note a custom, or, having visited some grand natural wonder myself, have had the further benefit of a friend's notes of a former visit to the same place, which I venture to impart to the reader. It is hoped this arrangement, though less formal than the ordinary one, will not detract from the interest of these Holiday Notes. Time and circumstances have prevented a formal rewriting of the memoranda, and an apology is tendered, in anticipation, for any shortcomings in this matter. Some of the lessons learned in the course of a pleasant journey may prove of general interest in these days of growing concern in the affairs of our vast Colonial Empire.

From personal observation I can state that our Colonial brothers have to cope with many difficulties. There are the Land" question, the Labour question, and other problems of lesser moment, which beset the path of statecraft, — difficulties which are common to every new country, but which are being successfully grappled with by those at the head of affairs, whose one desire is the progress and prosperity of their country. Two things seem to be most desirable. First, a Confederation of the Colonies. This would tend to do Preface. X away with the rivalry and jealousy which to a certain extent exists, as well as isolated and separate action in questions which affect the welfare of all Colonies alike. The other is the representation of a people more English than the English themselves in our Home Legislature.

It is right that a people so devoted to " Home," as they call the old country — and this feeling pervades all, even those who are Colonial born, — who so rigidly copy Home institutions, political and philan thropic, so far as they are applicable and appropriate to their own circumstances and surroundings, — who will become great and mighty, — who will be the England under the Southern Cross, the dominating and pre vailing power — should have direct representation here. The great need of the Colonies for their fuller development is population — not the drones of life, nor yet clerks ; but the husbandman, carpenter, brick layer, and others of the hardy sons of toil, — if with capital, so much the better. Of America we can say, in answer to the one question of their nation at Washington, " Now aren't we a great people?"

Yes! assuredly so. Great in their marvellous adaptability to all the requirements of a people, not waiting for suggestions, but producing articles appropriate to the changing circumstances of time and place. Take one instance out of many. A Colonial hardware merchant states, "At home you are too conservative. We frequently distinctly state what we require out here, and suggest the needed alterations in make ; but you don't think it worth while to alter your makes to suit our requirements, so the trade goes to Americans, who do not wait for our Preface. XI suggestion, but forestall this by producing just the very thing suitable for this market." From what we have seen of America, we must say that whilst they are great traders at home, they, as a nation, will become our greatest and most formidable competitors when they adopt a policy of free trade, and bid for the trade of the world from that platform, the planks of which have been firmly laid and fully established by Cobden and Bright, together with many minor and less known "lights;" but all working with singleness of purpose and aim to reach the now attained goal of " free trade " — long to live, and long to last.

In political life we cannot assent to the assertion of America's greatness. There seems to be a superficial ness, a want of disinterestedness in motive which actuates the " machinery," that after a careful scrutiny leads to the conclusion that in many cases each one has had his] own particular aggrandisement in view, which is meant to be accomplished at all costs. Certainly, political life here, as at home, possesses little charm. A great deal is said and talked of in our own land about Republics and Republican institutions ; but it would surprise no one if those who are keenest for this form of government, after a sojourn in the land where such form is the ruling one, come back more satisfied and contented with the Monarchical system, because under it personal safety is greater, justice is less harsh, and liberty does not extend to licence.

Another question which forces itself upon the observation is the " Drink problem." It is not at all an uncommon occurrence for men who have been at the shearing in Australia to place all their earnings, amounting to tens of pounds sterling, in the hands of Preface. one of the country publicans, and "stay on around" until the equivalent has been taken out in liquor. It is not necessary to enter into details of what this means. My own experience leads me to the conclusion that in whatever section of the globe one may be, strict tem perance is the best and truest means whereby to ensure health, and brace up the system for the fatigue of travel. I can only repeat that it was my intention to re-write these Notes, and enlarge on some of the questions therein, presenting the whole in a more worthy form to the reader.

In fact, they were intended to be the basis of a future work ; but a sudden bereavement prevented this, and I therefore present them, just as written, hoping that they may not prove uninteresting, and craving an indulgent criticism wherein they fall short. I am indebted to numerous kind friends and natives in the places visited for the legends found in the following pages. In some cases they were narrated verbally to me, while in others they were written out, and permission was given to reproduce them here. They are inserted because they show something of the inner lives and thoughts of the people who loved and fought and died in the fair and fertile regions beneath the Southern Cross. At some future date I hope to be able to present to the reader a more complete collection of the legends of the darker races, as well as observations on the manners, customs, and traditional beliefs of the fiercer tribes of more Eastern lands, whom I hope in due time to visit. ROBERT WALKER. Leicester, December, 1883. i CONTENTS.

Chapter I. From London To Melbourne

The Start— Bill of Fare— Ten Missing— Un-Sabbath-like Entertainment — Effects of Storm — Mouth of the Tagus — Honour to Spain — The Rock — Mountains of Silver — Ludicrous Scenes — Feathered Passengers — Sardinia — Naples— A Cheap Bouquet — Vesuvius — Etna — Port Said — Hard Work — Suez Canal — The Red Sea — Sand-storms — First sight of Southern Cross — Concert — The Indian Ocean — Cross the Line — Measles on board — Honeymoon in Quarantine — Glorious Sunset — Fancy Dress Ball — List of Wounded — First Sight of Australia — Semaphore — Whit Monday in Adelaide — Something Wrong — Arrive at Melbourne — Summary of Voyage — Extracts from the " Ligurian " .

Chapter II. Victoria

Victoria — Melbourne — Suburbs of the City — Botanical Gardens — The Scots Church — Odours many, but bad — The Yarra — One-sided Agreement — Railway Journey — Cheap living and high wages — Sandhurst — Visit to Garden Gully Gold Mine — Quartz Crushing — " I've struck the Bank of England !" — Race between Train and Kangaroo — Deniliquin — Bush Hotel — Royal Mail Coach — A good Dinner — Bad roads good for the Liver Complaint — Coree — Bolted ! — A Bush Station — Sheep Farming — The Dingo — Sheep shearing — Hands and Servants wanted —Kangaroo Hunt — Native Ovens — Squatter's House — A Big Plantation— Bull-dog Ants— The Riverina— A Mob of Horses Contents. XIV 39 64 107 —Bucking— Well's Comet— A "gamey" Passenger— Tramps —Tramps' Revenge— A Cool Waiter — Coonong— Irrigation Works — Tarantulas — Land Systems of Victoria and New South Wales— River System— Timber-felling— A Nice Housekeeper — Parrot Shooting ......

Chapter III. New South Wales And Fiji

Splendid Sunset — A long Ride — New South Wales — Sydney and its Environs — Lighthouse at the Heads — Botany Bay— The Blue Mountains — Commodore Goodenough — Swearing — Drinking — Chinese — Ignorance of Colony at Home — Voyage to Fiji — Description of the Colony — Coral Reef — Fijians — Crabs — Houses — Native Church — Copra Industry — Uses of the Cocoanut — Sandal Wood — Beche-de-mer — Boiling Springs — Labour — Maiming — Crime — Prisoners — Native Drink — Taxation — Lala — Chiefs — Native Dishes — Land Crabs — Vegetables — Gratitude — King Cakobau — War Canoes — Whales' Teeth — Legends — Brother and Sister— Hospital — Washing — Farewell to the King — Fijian Climate ....

Chapter IV. New Zealand

Description — Auckland — Mount Eden — Fire-bells —Gate Pah — The Bush — Corduroy Road — The Rata — Mangorewa Gorge — Boiling Springs — The Priest's Bath — Tamate Kapua — The Arawa Canoe — Legends of the Maories — Native Land Court — Death of the Chief Mangorewa — Funeral Ceremonies — Maori Cookery — A Maori Dragon — Rotorua District — Boiling Springs —Bathing— Lakes— The White Terrace— The Pink Terrace— The Porridge Pot— Maori Canoe — Tikitere— Bishopscourt — Rev. Thomas Spurgeon— Ohanpo— Alexander— Native Village — New Zealand Birds— The King's Town — Maori Food- Native Legends— War with Settlers— Farm at Hamilton— Large Fire— Kauri Gum — Napier — Wellington — Dunedin — New Zealand Refrigerating Company— Rosslyn Mills— Museum- Rabbits .... Contents. XV 153 221

Chapter V. Tasmania And Hawaii

Hobart — Melbourne again — Sydney — Storm — Second Class — Russel — Maori King — Tattooing— Maori Games — Ravages of Drink — Land Question — Maori Proverbs — Description of Hawaii — Reefs— Honolulu — A Pirate Ship — Idols — Temples — Food — Sugar Plantation — Kamehameha I. — The Kapu — Poisoning — Flow of Lava — Games — Houses — Love of Flowers — Market — Legends— Native Lawyer — Chinese Prisoner — Justice — Doctors — Strong Drink — Leprosy — Coffee — Education — Kilauea .......

Chapter VI. California

San Francisco — Hotels — Tarantula Spider— Californian Climate- Stage Racing— State of Los Angeles — Tacks and Rats— A Duel— A Wonderful Lawsuit— Speedy Justice — A Novel Contest — The Twin Brothers— Another Lawsuit — A Fandango — Potts and the Red Skins — Grizzly Bear Stories — The Heathen Chinee ........ HOLIDAY NOTES.

Chapter I

f^ojvi j^oKdoN to me^bou^Ke;. The Start— Bill of Fare— Ten Missing — Un-Sabbath like Entertainment — Effects of Storm — Mouth of the Tagus — Honour to Spain — The Rock — Mountains of Silver — Ludicrous Scenes — Feathered Passengers — Sardinia — Naples — A Cheap Bouquet — Vesuvius — Etna — Port Said — Hard Work — Suez Canal — The Red Sea — Sand-storms — First sight of Southern Cross — Concert — The Indian Ocean — Cross the Line — Measles on board — Honeymoon in Quarantine — Glorious Sunset — Fancy Dress Ball — List of Wounded — First sight of Australia — Semaphore — Whit Monday in Adelaide — Something Wrong — Arrive at Melbourne — Summary of Voyage — Extracts from the " Ligurian." April 21st, 1882. — Started for Melbourne on board the screw steamer Liguria, of the Orient line. This vessel is one of the Pacific Steam Navigation Company's fleet.

She is a fine ship, and is said to be a fast sailer. Her length over all is 468 feet; breadth amidships, 45 feet ; registered tonnage, 4666 ; and her effective horse-power, 4200. The following: Bill of Fare will show the luxuriousness of the entertainment provided for the passengers. Although some complaints were made during the voyage as to the living, yet, on the whole, the arrangements were very satisfactory. One improvement, however, we notice, viz., all the attendants are Europeans, and we must congratulate the Company on this. On several of the Mail lines we have travelled by, Lascars have been employed, and these people during the hot weather are not at all pleasantly odoriferous. MENU.— SS. LIGURIA. BREAKFAST (9 a.m.). Fried Fish. Hashed Turkey. Porridge (if desired). Mutton Chops.

Bacon and Fried Potatoes. Jams. Minced Collops. Curried Mutton. Marmalade. Hash. Boiled Eggs. Biscuits. Devilled Kidneys. Mashed Potatoes. LUNCH (1 p.m.). Soup. Mutton. Cheese. Salad. Corned Beef. Biscuits. Salmon. Ham. DINNER (6 p.m.). Soups. Entrees. Vegetables. Giblet. Stewed Rabbit. Cauliflowers. Beef and Olives. Peas. Fish. Roast Pork & Apple Sauce. Potato Cakes. Cod. Sirloin of Beef. Boiled Potatoes. Boiled Turkey, Oyster See. Curried Sheep's Head. Sweets. Rhubarb Pie. Almond Tablets. Queen's Pudding. Sandwich Pastry. Dessert. Coffee. Gravesend was left at 10 a.m. ; and, after a rapid and enjoyable run, Plymouth was reached on Saturday morning. Temp. 6o° F.1 April 22nd. — Plymouth in view. The houses of the town look very pretty in the bright sunlight, and it makes one desire to go on shore for a time, so bright and calm do all things appear.

This too, would be all the more enjoyable, as we are unaccustomed to the strange motion of the vessel on its way down channel. Notice is posted up, however, that "This steamer will leave immediately ; " so it is useless to think of landing. At 2 p.m. we are towed out of port by a tug. Outside the breakwater there was a heavy sea on, and this increased as we made progress. At dinner-time, at our table, which seats twelve, myself and the doctor were alone in our glory. Afterwards went on deck ; it was blowing hard, and the spray was dashing all over 1 This and the following similar readings were taken from the ther mometer in my berth at 12 noon each day. Effects of a Storm. 3 the vessel. A few passengers — of the sterner sex — were on deck, mostly feeling blue and looking green. Turned in, feeling very uncomfortable and squeamish.

The wind increased in fury as the hours went by, and the crashes of breaking crockery were frequent. Temp. 590 F. April 23rd, Sunday. — Am now out of the running. Nearly everyone ill. Steward states that only some twelve sat down to dinner. In the cabins, everything becomes mixed up. Trunks, hat-boxes, boots, towels, brushes, etc., are running races over, under, and about one. A very un-Sabbath-like entertainment ! It needs no words to reveal the fact that we are well in the Bay of Biscay. Distance run the first three days, 280 miles. Temp. 590 F. April 24th. — Up early, and on deck. Most pas sengers are on deck too. Captain states the storm has delayed our progress some fourteen hours. The ship rolls heavily, and most of us feel disconsolate ; but the cause thereof is not ascertainable. Strollingforward we make observations as to the damage done by the storm.

The wicker chairs which had been put together, tied down, and carefully covered over with tarpaulins, have been sadly disarranged, and present a mournful sight, being crushed and crumpled up like tissue-paper. Iron bars as thick as one's wrist have been twisted like twigs. The fastening of one of the boats has been broken away, the bars of one of the skylights smashed, a ventilator broken off. The bullock-pen, weighing nine tons, was lifted up, and thrown athwart the deck. The pig-pen was washed about, broken, and the inmates sent flying in all directions, one down the engine-hatch, and others in various parts. Of these animals we lost nine. Distance run, 274 miles. Temp. 6o° F. April 25///. — At 11 a.m, we passed the entrance of the river Tagus. Had a capital view of Cintra. The palace is situated on the top of the neighbouring hills, and stands out boldly against the sky-line.

This must be a most enjoyable residence in the summer-time, so pleasantly is it situated ; and many a one would run the risk of proving the truth of the proverb, " Uneasy lies the head that wears a crown," to be the fortunate possessor of such an attractive residence. The numerous feluccas, with their curiously shaped sails, dredging in the bay, lend additional interest to the scene. We observe, too, the changing colour of the water, owing either to the varying depths or the difference of the bottom. The sea being now of a dark pea-green, then of an entrancing emerald, and later on there is the glowing azure of the " blue " Mediterranean. Sighted the lights of Cape St. Vincent at 7.55 p.m. Distance run, 305.7 miles. Temp. 640 F. April 26th. — Weather fine, but cloudy ; sighted the Rock. Passed Tarifa ; saluted by dipping our flag off the point on which stands the lighthouse.

This is the place where years ago, English vessels in passing would not salute the Spanish flag in the manner mentioned, and in consequence, were always fired at ; but the Spanish fire was so wretchedly bad, that little harm resulted from it. Came abreast of Gibraltar at 1 1 a.m. The harbour was crowded with shipping of all descrip tions. From one of the forts, artillery practice was going on at a buoy moored out at sea. An hour later, the snow-clad heights of the Sierra Nevada are plainly visible ; and, as the sun is shining brightly, the sides where the snow lies thickest appear as if molten silver had been poured over their various cones, which, becoming congealed on its way down wards, had afterwards been polished. The contrast on this bright spring morning between the dark, gloomy appearance of the base, and the silvery brightness of the peaks, was exceedingly fine.

These pleasant pictures of Nature's own painting are seen to every advantage from shipboard, set as they are in a fore ground of sea, and a background of ethereal sky. During the uncomfortable rolling of the vessel, many ludicrous scenes are witnessed, to which only a Cruik shank could do justice. Our chairs were tied to the deck rails ; but some eight ladies and gentlemen, not caring to be fixed and tethered to one portion only, Feathered Passengers. 5 would have their chairs loose. The natural conse quences shortly followed ; the chairs, owing to a severer roll than usual, tipped up, threw their occupants on deck, when of course they rolled against the bulwarks, the chairs, by the force of the lurch, being on the top of them. Distance run, 324 miles. Temp. 640 F. April 2jth. — Sky dull. The heat was not so great as anticipated.

A pair of yellow wagtails came on board, also three swallows. These birds had probably been blown from land by the recent storm. When such is the case, it is wonderful how fearless the little things become. The two former did not remain many hours, but the swallows were flying about the deck all day, even allowing themselves to be handled by the passengers. Towards evening they entered the saloon through the lights, and during the dinner-hour were flitting about amongst the spireas, hydrangeas, and geraniums growing in pots in the skylight overhead. They were turned out once, but returned again, so were allowed to remain and catch the few flies about. After roosting on the punkahs during the night, they took their departure next morning. Distance run, 337 miles. Temp. 650 F. April 28th. — Passed Sardinia in the afternoon.

The side facing us is very rocky, eminence crowning eminence. Through a glass we see distinctly revealed some fine scarp of rock. The lower hills are clad with olive trees ; their formation appears to be of greyish red granite. Distance run 315.9 miles. Temp. 650 F. April 29/72. — Tassed Capri in the early morning. Had a distant glimpse of Mount Vesuvius. The approach to Naples from the sea is exceedingly fine, and the view of the city from our anchorage in the bay is very beautiful, making us to almost agree with the Italian proverb, Vedi Napoli e poi mori — " See Naples and die." We are beset by boats of all de scriptions, containing various commodities for sale, also by divers, whose only language is a cry, and that one moneesh (money). From London lo Melbourne. On landing we proceeded to the palace, which we went over.

After that we visited the Musei Fernando, in which are many magnificent relics recovered from Herculaneum and Pompeii. The flowers which one can purchase in the streets are cheap and good. For one franc a bouquet can be purchased containing one hundred tea roses intermingled with mignonette, heliotrope, and fine grasses, — a spray of orange blossom being " thrown in " to make the perfume complete. As we leave the port we have a good view of Mount Vesuvius. The march of civilization has left unmis takeable traces here, for we can plainly observe the railway lines, and the terminus near the top of this classical volcano. Distance run, 315.9 miles. Temp. 66° F. April 2,0th, Sunday. — The crew muster and answer the roll-call at 10 a.m. After seeing this the passengers go down to the Church-service in the saloon.

In the early morning went through the straits of Messina, afterwards passed Stromboli. Had a fine view of Mount Etna. Distance run, 260 miles. Temp. 670 F. May 1st. — Day clear, calm, bright, with cloudless sky. Came in sight of Crete. The island is very mountainous, and the hills are of almost equal height from end to end. Streaks of snow are seen on all the high peaks. Dance on deck in the moonlight. Distance run, 327.6 miles. Temp. 66° F. May 2nd. — No land in sight to-day. Arranged concert and sports committee. Distance run, 328 miles. Temp. 68° F. May 2>rd.— Arrived at Port Said. Up at 6 a.m. Landed and went on a tour of inspection through the town. It is exceedingly flat here, and the surrounds the place on every hand. The town itself is a poor one, and a most pestilential place. Every language seems to be spoken, and yet it is but a collection of wooden shanties, the chief distinguishing cha racteristic of which is filth.

This is very much so in the Arab quarter. In this Egyptian den many articles, Suez Canal. 7 chiefly of Birmingham manufacture, may be bought ; but if twenty shillings is named as the price of any thing, the seller is glad to accept five shillings. Hordes of beggars accompany one everywhere demanding " backsheesh." Labour here must be cheap, as from personal observation I can state that it takes three swarthy Egyptian men to milk a goat, viz., one to hold the animal, another to grasp the bottle, and the third to milk ! After coaling we proceed on our way through the Canal. The enormous flocks of storks which cover the shallow flats are very pretty ; wild fowl of all descriptions frequent the various lakes. The Canal is about 88 miles in length, but the rate of speed at which steamers are allowed to proceed is only four or five miles per hour.

The backwash of a large steamer even at this rate is very great, and hence the banks have become washed away in places, and constant dredging has to be resorted to, to keep the channel the proper depth. This necessitates high Canal dues. The sum paid for the passage of a large ship through the Canal is about ,£1600. The rate is eight francs per head for passengers, and one franc per ton. At the widest parts of the Canal, the end of a cable is taken on shore, and passed over posts which are firmly driven into the sand, and by means of a windlass on board the vessel is hauled sufficiently near the bank to allow the passage of a vessel coming up from Ismailia. The Canal is at times blocked through steamers runningaground. When such is the case most uncomfortable delays are experienced. All vessels, except, I believe, the mail steamers, tie up between Port Said and Ismailia to allow others coming in the contrary direction to pass them, if there are any coming up.

Vessels between Port Said and Suez wait for others going down. There is telegraphic com munication throughout the whole length of the Canal. It is worked on the block system. The signals hoisted are, one flag and one black ball, proceed ; one flag and two black balls, stop. A vessel has frequently to stop for five or six others going up. As the Canal bends in various parts, it is a very odd sight to see the masts only of vessels rising up apparently out of the desert ; the view of the hull itself being intercepted by high banks of golden-coloured sand. Temp. 700 F. May 4th. — Last evening we tied up in the Canal (no vessels being allowed to proceed after dark). On either side of us were high banks of sand, sparsely covered with vegetation. Our passage through this sandy waste is most interesting.

Now we see stretches of desert as far as the eye can reach, and then at other times appear hills covered more or less by shrubs, the hills and vegetation both increasing in size the farther we proceed. This morning we passed a stretch of purest white sand which glistened brilliantly in the fierce sunlight. Have seen the mirage several times ; the best was that of a man who was walking beside the Canal, and was reflected far away on the horizon, appearing to walk sometimes on islands, and at others on that which appeared to be sea. At Ismailia the Canal merges into a lake. The Khedive has a pleasantly-situated palace here. The course of the Canal through this lake is marked by buoys. We had to wait till seven vessels had gone by, among them the troop-ship Serapis. The fresh water of Ismailia is conveyed to Port Said through iron pipes laid along the whole length of the Canal.

Pilots take charge of vessels through the Canal, one from Port Said to Ismailia, and another from Ismailia to Suez. Saw plains of pure white saline crystals. Temp. 720 F. May — Came in sight of Suez. Lay about two miles away from the town, and provisioned. Temp. 730 F. ; in sun, 980 F. May 6th. — Are now steaming down Red Sea. Some distance down the place where the Israelites are said to have crossed is pointed out. Still further on we come to the rugged red mountainous chain of the Sinaitic peninsula. The hills are of a reddish-brown colour, and in the setting sun look very beautiful Red Sea. 9 enrobed as they are in a rich purple haze. The moon, now nearly at the full, has added much to the peaceful scenery at night both here and in the Canal. The colour of the Red Sea is very similar to that of the Mediterranean, being a beautiful azure blue.

It is stated that at certain seasons of the year this sea is actually red. This results from the immense clouds of sand which are raised by the wind, even obscuring the sun's rays, and shedding a lurid glare on the water. At such times, even when in the widest part of the sea, the minute particles of sand cover the vessel, and the eyes of the watch on deck become bloodshot through its irritating influence. The phosphorescence on the surface of the water is exceedingly fine. Dis tance run, 312 miles. Temp. 8o° F. ; in sun, 1020 F. May *jth, Sunday. — Service on deck at 11 a.m Father Keating, d.d., gave us an interesting and orthodox address. In the afternoon fire and boat exercise. Piano being brought on deck, had more sacred music. Closed the evening in same pleasant way. First view of Southern Cross, disappointed with it.

From what I had heard, expected to see stars of greater magnitude. Distance run, 323.4 miles. Temp. 8i° F ; sun 1020 F. May 8th. — The same degree of heat as yesterday. Passed several small islands evidently of volcanic origin. Saw shoals of flying fish. Distance run, 315.5 miles. Temp. 840 F; sun 1030 F. May gth. — Passed Aden this morning, but could only see the great rock in the distance. Weather fine but dull. Had a concert on deck. Skipper took the chair. All passed off very creditably. Distance run 271.4 miles. Temp. 88° F. May 10th. — Coast along the Gulf of Aden. A fine range of hills in view all day, but coast line uninter esting. Had a good view of Ulula in the afternoon. Distance run, 304 miles. Temp. 88° F. May nth. — Weather still very warm. In the evening had an entertainment on deck, which passed off successfully.

Ladies slept on deck as usual, but were caught, towards early morning, in a tropical downpour. We now enter the Indian Ocean. Dis tance run, 329.1 miles. Temp. 890 F. May 1 2th. — Have not slept on deck at all during this hot weather, though my berth is like a Turkish bath. The sea resembles a sheet of molten glass, heavy roll on, but nevertheless not a ripple on the surface of the water. Distance run, 315 miles. Temp. 87° F. May i2,th- — Bright sun all day. Same heavy roll as before. Some people are accordingly squeamish. Distance run, 324.2 miles. Temp. 870 F. May 14th, Sunday. — Crossed the line at 10 a.m. Not quite so uncomfortable a roll on as yesterday. Service on deck at 11 a.m. Sermon by Father Keat ing. Measles have broken out among the children. We fear quarantine at Melbourne and Sydney.