Greater London ... Illustrated

Chapter I. The

THAMES— THE POOL, ETC. pAGB The Pool— The Commerce of London— Execution Dock— The Thames Gibbets— The iVarspite, Arethusa, and Ch 'chafer Training Ships— The Dreadnought and Caledonia—A Floating Hospital— Bugsby's Reach, Woolwich Reach, and Gallion's Reach— Plumstead and Erith Marshes— Sewage Outfall of the Metropolitan Main Drainage Works— Dagenham— Erith— The Darent and the Cray— Long Reach— Purfleet- Powder Magazines— The Comiua'l Reformatory Ship— Greenhithe and Northfleet— Stone Church— Ingress Abbey— The Training Ship Worcester— West Thurrock, Gray's Thurrock, and Little Thurrock— Belmont Castle— South Hope Reach— Discovery of Fossils and Remains of Animals— "Cunobelin's Gold Mines," or " Dane Holes "—Gravesend— Tilbury Fort— West Tilbury— Tilbury Docks— Hope Reach— East Tilbury— Thames Haven— Canvey Island— Hadleigh Castle— Leigh— Yantlet Creek— The Boundary Marks cf the Thames Conservancy — Southend ## ## ,

CHAPTER I

I. WOOLWICH. Situation and Extent of Woolwich Town— Its Etymology — Domesday Record of Woolwich — Descent of the Manor — A Curious Tradition respecting North Woolwich — Roman Occupation of Woolwich — A Market Established here— Acreage of the Parish, and Census Returns — Description o" the Town— Steamboat Piers and Railway Stations — Early Naval Importance of the Town— Pepys' Official Visits to the Dockyard— Dangers of the Neighbourhood— Woolwich a Century Ago— Omnibuses and Steam-Packets Established— Hanging Wood- Woolwich as a Fishing Village— The Parish Church— Other Churches and Chapel*— The Goldsmiths' Almshouses— Parochial Almshouse*: — Lo/dace, the "Cavalier" Posr. — Grimaldi — A Centenarian .....,_.,.. .... 6

Chapter III. Woolwich

(continued)— THE DOCKYARD AND ARSENAL. Situation and Extent of the Dockyard — Its Early History — The Building of the H arry-Grace-a-Dicu — Queen Elizabeth present at a Launch here— The Ship Sovereign Royal, called by the Dutch the Golden Devil — Batteries raised and Ships sunk at Woolwich for Defence against the Dutch— Prince Rupert's Tower— Enlargement of the Dockyard —The Docks re-modelled under Sir John Rennie — The Docks " Disestablished " — Subsequent use of the Dockyard — Convicts and the Hulks— Situation and Extent of the Royal Arsenal — Beresford Street and Beresford Square— Condition ofthe Locality a Century ago — An Explosion at the Gun Foundry at Moorfields— Andrew Schalch — Early History of the Ordnance Armoury at Woolwich— " Greenwich Barne" — Extracts from Ordnance Records — The Laboratory Establishment removed hither from Greenwich — Woolwich Warren — General View of the Arsenal — Mutiny among the Woolwich Rope-makers — Establishment ofthe Brass Foundry here— Number of Men employed here — " Watering Time " — Description of the Arsenal Buildings— The Entrance — Dial Square — The Royal Laboratory — The Pattern-Room and Museum — The Royal Gun Factories — " Woolwich Infants " and Wire Guns — The Great Nasmyth Hammer— The Carriage and Ordnance Stores Departments — The Sale Yard— The " Proof-butts "—Regulation; for Admission of the Public . . 14

Chapter IV. Woolwich

(continned)-THE BARRACKS, ETC. Barracks for Sappers and Miners — Depot for Field-Train Artillery — The Ordnance Hospital — Barracks for the Royal Horse and Foot Artillery — The Bhurtpoor Trophy — The Crimean Memorial — The Royal Engineer Barracks — The Army Service Corps —The Depot Barracks — The Riding School— The Royal Artillery Institution— The Royal Military Repository— The Rotunda— Royal Military Academy — Memorial of the Prince Imperial— A Mineral Well— Shooter's Hill GREATER LONDON. 50 56 70

Chapter V. Plumstead And East Wickham

1MGE Situation and Extent of Plumstead-Census Returns-Domesday Records of Plumstead -The Manor passes to Queen's College, Oxford— Burrage Town-Borstall, or Bostal-Suffolk Place Farm-The Soil and Cl jnate-Plumnead Common-The old Artillery Practice-butt —The Slade-Bramble Briers, otherwise Bramblebury House-Brick-kilns and Sand-pits— The Cemetery-The old Parish Church- Extracts from the Parish Registers-The new Parish Church-Other Churches and Chapels-Brookhill School-Woolwich Union- Railway and Tramcars-Geological Formation of the District-Plumstead Marshes-The Main Drainage Works at Crossness Point— East Wickham— Descent of the Manor— The Church— A Curious Fresco Painting ™

Chapter VI. Erith And Lesnes

Situation of Erith, and Derivation of its Name— Descent of the Manor— A Saxon Law-suit— The Church— The Town— Census Returns- Chapels and Schools-Erith formerly a Maritime Port-Historical Incidents-The Pier and Public Gardens-Discoveries of Geological Remains-Erith Marshes-Powder Magazines-Explosion of a Magazine-Belvedere-The Royal Alfred Institution for Aged Merchant Seamen— The Village of Belvedere— Abbey Wood— Lesnes Abbey— Bostall Heath "4

Chapter VII. Bexley, Welling, And Sidcup

Situation of Bexley— Etymology of Name— Early History— St. Runwald- Lord Bexley— Population— General Description- Parish Church— St. John's Church— Bexley Heath— "The Yard of Beer "-Welling— Danson Hill— Lamorby-Sidcup— Hall Place— Bourne Place . 5°

Chapter VIII. The Crays

Origin of Name of Crayford— Battle Between Saxons and Britons— Cave Refuges— Roman Remains — Earle Manor— Howbury — Sir Cloudesley Shovel — Manufacturers— Population— Church of St. Paulinus— North Cray— Vale Mascal — North Cray Church — Ruxley— Foot's Cray — St. Paul's- Cray — St. Mary Cray— Orpington— The Hop Gardens 5"

Chapter IX. Chislehurst

Situation of tbe Parish, and Derivation of its Name— Its Population— History of the Manor — An Ancient Cock.pit — The Parish Church — St. Mary's Roman Catholic Chapel — Christ Church— Church of the Annunciation— Wesleyan Chapel — St. Mary's Hall — St. Michael's Orphanage— Governesses' Benevolent Institution— Camden Place— William Camden, the Antiquary— Charles Pratt, Lord Camden — The Murder of Mr. and Mrs. Eonar— The ex-Imperial Family of France take up their abode at Camden Place— Death of Napoleon III. and the Prince Imperial— Scadbury — The Family of the Walsinghams— Sir Nicholas Bacon— Frognal — The Seat of the Farringtons . , JO

Chapter X. Bickley, Bromley, And Plaistow

Bickley Church — The Hall — Bromley — Origin of Name— Dr. Hawkesworth — Parish Church— Antiquities — The Grave of Dr. Johnson's Wife Old Church Door — Elizabeth Monk — Bromley Palace— " The Bishop's Well " — Bishop Atterbury — The College — Simpson's Moat Bromley Hill— Plaistow— Grove Park— Catford 82

Chapter XI. Beckenham And The River Ravensbourne

Beckenham— The Ravensbourne— Old Houses— Early History— The Church and its Monuments— Shortlands- Langley Park Lord Auckland— Eden Farm ng CONTENTS. V

Chapter XII. Hayes And Keston

FAGR Situation and Rural Appearance of Hayes— Etymology- The Parish Church— Discovery of Roman Remains— Charitable Bequests— The " George " Inn — Hayes Place— Lord Chatham — Hayes Common — Sir Vicary Gibbs, and Hallam the Historian — Baston, or Boston, House — Keston Common — The Source of the Ravensbourne — A Curious Legend — A Roman Encampment — The Keston Mark — Holwood— The "Wilberforce Oak "—Holwood House— Keston Church— The Archdeacon's Well— Warbank— Etymology of Keston— Descent of the Manor IOr5

Chapter XIII. Farnborough And Downe

Productions of Farnbo-ough — Early History- -Tubbendens— Church of St. Giles — Greens tree t Green and Knockholt Beeches— Downe— St. Mary's Church— Charles Robert Darwin— Downe Hall— High Elms— Sir John Lubbock— Cudham and its Church . . . . Il6

Chapter XIV. West Wickham And Addington

West Wickham — Annals of the Parish — Wickham Court — Gallery of Portraits— Keston Church — " The Archdeacon's Well "—Etymology and Early History — Wickham Church — Mr. West, the friend of Lyttelton and Pitt — The Poet Glover's Absence of Mind— Discovery of Palæolithic Weapons and Instruments — A Group of Remarkable Trees— Addington, its Boundaries and Etymology — Castle Hill — Singular Tenure of the Manor — Descent of the Manor— The Parish Church— The Burial-Place of Archbishop Tait — A Cluster of Tumuli — Addington Park— Its Purchase as a Scat for the Archbishops of Canterbury— The successive Archbishops who have lived here . . 124

Chapter XV. Shirley, Woodside, And Addiscombe

General Characteristics of Shirley — Broom-Making Industry -The Parish Church — Shirley House — Woodside — Croydon Racecourse — Addiscombe — Its Early History — Addiscombe House re-built by Evelyn's Son-in-Law, Mr. Draper — The House the Residence successively of Lord Chancellor Talbot and Lord Liverpool — Narrow Escape of Pitt — Addiscombe House converted into a Military College for the East Indian Army 1 36

Chapter XVI. Sanderstead, Warlingham, Farley, And Caterham

The Manor of Sanderstead — All Saints' Church— Sander teid Court and Que-n EHzaceth— Purley and its History — John Horne Tooke — " The Diversions of Pu ley " — A Remarkable Libel Case —The " Eligibility of the Clergy " — Warlingham — Early History—'* Whipping the Apple Trees " — Farleigh — St. Mary's Church— Caterham Val'ey— Asylum for Imbeciles 139

Chapter XVII

CROYDON— EARLY HISTORY, ETC. Situation and Early History— Etymology of Name— Discovery of Coins— Historical Associations— The Old and New Churches of St. John the Baptist — De-truction and Rebuilding— Monuments and Epitaphs— Mural Painting in the Church— Register— Dr. William Cleiver and the Highwayman • I48

Chapter XVIII. Croydon

(continued)— THE ARCHBISHOP'S PALACE. Present Condition of the Palace — " Standing Houses " of the Archbishops of Canterbury in former times— Early History of Croydon Palace —Its Situation and Extent— Fish-ponds, &c. — The Great Hall— The Guard Chamber— The Chapel— Biographical Sketches of Successive Archbishops of Canterbury who resided at Croydon i5s VI GREATER LONDON. 171 182 197

Chapter XIX. Croydon

(continued)— WHITGIFT'S HOSPITAL AND OTHER CHARITIES. General Description of Whitgift's Hospital— Its Foundation in the Reign of Elizabeth— Curious Discoveries on its Site— Sum expended in Building the Hospital— Whitgift's Instructions concerning the Charity— The Building described-Biographical Sketch of Whitgift— Present Administration of the Charity— Whitgift's Schools— The " Swan " and " Crown " Hotels-Davy's Almshouses-Smith's, or the Little Almshouses— Royal Masonic Benevolent Institution— Croydon General Hospital -Charitable Bequests to the Poor . • • 5

Chapter XX. Croydon

(continued)— THE TOWN AND SUBURBS. Colliers, or Charcoal-burners— The " Saucy Collier of Croydon and the Devil "—References to the Colliers of Croy-ion by early Play-wrights— Condition of Croydon in the Reign of Elizabeth— Its Appearance in the present day— An Ancient Mill— The Bourne Brook— Croydon receives a Charter of Incorporation— Markets and Fairs, &c— Census Returns— Railway Communication— The First Iron Tramway — Sanitary Condition of Croydon— The Town Hall— The Market House— Public Hall, &c— Breweries and Manufactories— Croydon Union— The Barracks— Churches and Chapels— The Cemetery— Schools— Coursing Meetings— Noted Residents- Subordinate Manors of Croydon— Eensham— Whitehorse— Haling— Croham— Norbury— Ham— Colliers' Wood— The Freeing of Coulsdon Common- Discovery of Anglo-Saxon Remains — Duppas Hill— The North Downs

Chapter XXI. Waddon And Beddington

Etymology of Waddon— Waddon Lane— The Wandle —Waddon Mill— Queen Elizabeth's Walk— Beddington— Its Etymology— Early History of the Manor— Evidences of Roman Occupation— The Manor of Home- Beddington— The Village— Railway Stations— St. Mary's Hospital— Beddington House— The Carews— Beddington Gardens — Asylum for Female Orphans — The Parish Church — Beddington Cave

CHAPTER XXI

I. WALLINGTON. Traces of Roman Occupation— Early History of Wallington— Descent ofthe Manor— Railway Communication — "Jerusalem," or Carshalton-on-thc-Hill— The Murder of Mr. Gold— Mr. Alfred Smee's Experimental Garden— The Wandle— Wallington House — A Labourers' Friendly Society — Wallington Church— Beddington Corner — Wallington Green— The Geo'ogy of the District 194

Chapter XXIII. Carshalton

Situation and Boundaries of Carsh.lton— Derivation of the Name- History of ihe Manor— A Weekly Market once held here— Market Gardens and Fish Culture -Fuller's Remarks concerning the Natural Products of the Parish— A " Poetic " Description of the Village— The River Wandle— Anne Boleyn's Well— All Saints' Church— Extracts from the Parish Register— Recent Growth of the Village— Stone Court — Carshalton House— The Celebrated Dr. Radcliffe— Culvers— Carshalton Park— Leicester House— May-Day Customs at Carshalton .

Chapter XXIV. Sutton

Situation and Boundaries of Sutton-Shepherd's Crowns-Chalk Pits-Irregular Growth of the Town-Sutlon Common-Bonncll Comm n —Census Returns— Descent of the Manor— The Parish and other Churches— The High Strect-The "Cock" Inn— The "Greyhound" —Mr. Solly's Residence— The South Metropolitan District Schools— London County Lunatic Asylum—" Little Hell " . 207

Chapter XXV. Banstead, Woodmansterne, And Coulsdon

Situation and General Appearance of Banstead-The View from the Downs-The Downs Famous for Sheep-farming-Geology of the Downs —Roman Coins, &c, found here— Pepys' Notices of Banstead Downs-Races held here in the 17th Century— The Attraction of the Downs Two Centuries ago— Descent of the Manor of Banstead— Tadworth-Banstead House— Cold Blow Cottage— North House— The Village of Banstead-The Parish Church-Walton-on-the-Hill-Walton Place-The Church-Discovery of a Roman Villa- Woodmansterne-The Church-" The Oaks "-General Burgoyne-His Elopement with Lady Charlotte Stanley-A File Champttre- Lord Derby a Resident here— Coulsdon -The Common— The Church— The Manor— The Bourne Rivulet . 2 CONTENTS. VII

Chapter XXVI. Cheam

PAGE Healthy Character of the Parish — Its Boundaries and Extent — Lynce's Corner— The Village and Population — Descent of the Manar — The Lumleys — Lower Cheam Park — The Parish Church— Monuments and Crosses — Noted Rectors of Cheam — The Vicarage — St. Philip's Church — National and Sunday Schools— Cheam School— An old Manor-house— White Hall— "Bobus" Smith— Cheam Park— LowerCheam Park 222

Chapter XXVII. Nonsuch

Nonsuch and its Early History- -Described by Evelyn and in the Parliamentary Survey — Visited by Queen Elizabeth— The Queen's Last Years spent here — The Earl of Essex— Pepys visits Nonsuch — The Duchess of Cleveland — " Diana's Dyke " — The Present Mansion — Archbishop Whateley . , • . 23O

Chapter XXVIII. Ewell

Situation and Boundaiies of the Parish— Its Etymology—" The Spring" Inn— The Hog's-Mill, or Ewell River— The Road from Cheam to Ewell— Description of the Village— Sheep Fair— Railway Stations— Population— Brick-works and Flower-mills— Gunpowder-works — The Roads in the Neighbourhood — Discovery of Roman Remains — Descent of the Manor of Ewell — The Parish Church — Extract from the Parish Register— Ewell Castle— Diana's Dyke— Noted Residents 239

Chapter XXIX. Epsom

Situation of the Town — Railway Communication — Etymology of its Name — Ebba, a Saxon Queen — Mention of the Parish in Domesday Book Descent of the Manor — The Manor of Horton — The Manor of Bretgrave — The Medicinal Spring of Epsom — Epsom Salts — The Town becomes a Fashionable Resort — Postal Communication in the Seventeenth Century— Improvement at the Wells — Public Breakfasts and Antusements— Epsom Society at the beginning of the Last Century . . 242

Chapter XXX. Epsom

{conttnued)-THE WELLS, ETC. Watering-places in and near London in the Seventeenth Century— Discovery of the Mineral Waters at Epsom — The Properties ofthe Waters — The Rise of Epsom from an obscure Village to a fashionable Watering-place — Sabbatarian Prejudices at a Discount — Epsom in the Time of Charles II. — A Royal Visit — Lady Castlemaine— Epsom in the Reign of Queen Anne— The Decline of Epsom's Popularity — The Saline Waters— Mrs. Mapp, the Bone-setter — Dr. Clarke 245

Chapter XXXI. Epsom

(continued)— THE TOWN, ETC. Description of the Town — The "King's Head ' and othtr Hotels— The Public Hall and other Buildings— The Assembly Rooms— Harlow's Portrait of Queen Charlotte— The Parish Church— Christ Chuich— Chapels and Meeting-houses for Nonconformists. &c. — Almshouses— Royal Medical Benevolent Col ege— Pitt Place— Lord Lyttelton's Ghost— Horton Place — Woodcote House— Woodcote Park— Durdans -5°

Chapter XXXII. Epsom Races

The Popularity of "The Derby "—A Description of Mr. Frith's Picture of " Derby Day "—The Grand Stand — The Company on the Downs — The Race — Scenes and Humours of the Course and the Road between London and Epsom — The Origin of the Term '"Blue Ribbon" ofthe Turf— Early History of Horse-racing — Introduction of Racing on Banstead Downs— Institution of the "Derby" and " Oaks" Stakes — The Races patronised by Royalty — List of Winners since 1830— Derby Anecdotes— Count La Grange and Gladiateur — Bend Or — Eclipse— Charles Greville's Character of Epsom Races — Silence of English Poets with respect to Horse racing—Retrospective Vie* of the Derby — Plunging— The Races and Electric Telegraphy— Racing in 1893— Mr. Martili Tupper and Epsom Downs PAGS 271 2S5 316

Chapter XXXIII. Chessington, Talworth, Long Ditton, Thames Ditton, And Molesey

Situation and Boundaries of Chessington-The Church -Charitable Bequests-Castle Hill— Descent of the Manor— Hook— Barwell Court— Talworth— Long Ditton— Population— The Church— Descent of the Manor— Situation and Boundaries of Thames Ditton —Railway Communication— Population, S_c— The Parish Church— Schools and Almshouses— William and Mary Howitt— Ancient Weapons found here— Boyle Farm— The Dandies' Fete— Lord St. Leonards— Ditton House- The Swan Tavern— Thames Angling Preservation Society— A Famous Angler-Lines composed by Theodore Hook in a Punt off Thames Ditton— Early History of the several Manors of Thames Ditton— Claygate— Imber Court— East Molesey— Population, Sc— The Church— The " Spa "—West Molesey— The Church— Cemctery-Molesey Hurst— Richard Baddeley the Actor— Molesey Grove— The Right Hon. J. Wilson Croker— Sir Robert Walpole — Other Residents— Apps Court ...

Chapter XXXIV. Esher And Claremont

Situation of Esher— Its Etymology— The Manor of Sandon, now called Sandown— Sandon Hospital or Priory— Sandown Racecourse -The " Travellers' Rest "—Anna Maria and Jane Porter— The old Parish Church— Christ Church— Esher Place— Wolsey's Tower —The Fall of Wolsey— Descent of the Manor of Esher— The Right Hon. Henry Pelham-Claremont— The Estate purchased by Sir John Vanbrugh— Holies, Earl of Clare and Duke of Newcastle- Lord Clive and subsequent Owners— Death of Princess Charlotte — The Grounds of Claremont

Chapter XXXV. Kingston-on-thames

Situation and Boundaries of the Town— Nature ofthe Soil, and Health Qualities ofthe District — Water Supply— Acreage and Population of the Town — Early History — Discovery of Roman Antiquities— Origin of the Name of Kingston — The Coronation of Athelstan — Early Charters and Privileges Granted to the Townsmen — Curious Entries in the Chamberlain's and Churchwarden's Accounts — Loyalty of the Inhabitants— Death of Lord Francis Villiers in the Civil War — Frequent Discovery of Ancient Warlike Weapons at Kingston — The Castle— Supposed Evidences of a Roman Ford here — Archæological Discoveries — Kingston Bridge — The Old Bridge — Historical Reminiscences— Tolls, &c— The Ducking or Clicking Stool — Clattern Bridge — An Ancient Mill — The Parish Church — Crack-nut Sunday 296

Chapter XXXVI. Kingston-upon-thames

(continued). The Coronation Stone -Monarch^ crowned here— The Town Hall — Historical Reminiscences of the Market Pbce — The Drinking Fountain — The Ass'ze Court— Old Houses in tbe Town-The Barracks— Working Men's Cub and Institute and Free Public Library— A'bany Hall — Cleaves Almshouses — Hea'thy Situaiion of the Town— Railway Comnvinication— New Kingston— Modern Improvements — ■ The Cemetery— St. Mary's Chapel — The Free Grammar School— Fai s— Public Amusements— The Fairfield— Thames Angling— Surbiton— St. Mark's Church — St. Andrew's and St. MaLthew's-Roman Catholic Church of St. Raphael— Norbiton— Churches and Charitable Institutions — Residerce of Lord Liverpool— Coombe Wood — The Highwayman and thc Doctor 307

Chapter XXXVII. Ham And Petersham

Situation and Boundaries of Ham-with-Hatch— Its Etymology — Descent of the Manor— Anne of Cleves John Maitland, Earl of Lauderdale and Lady Dysart— Ham House— The Interior ofthe Mansion— The "Cabal" Ministry— The Gardens and Grounds — Walpole's Description of the House— Queen Charlotte's Impression of the Mansion— Lady Dysart and Bishop Blomfield— Ham Walks— The Village and Church— National Orphan Home— Petersham— The Church— The Misses Berry— Gay's Summer- Housc— Catherine Hyde, Duchess of Queensberry— Petersham Lodge— Sudbrooke ...

Chapter Xxxviii. Richmond

Change of the Name from Sheen to Richmond— Situation of the Town— Its Boundaries and Extent— Eeauty of its Surroundin" Scenery Descent of the Manor of Shene — Earliest mention of the Palace — Death of Edward III. — The Palace Restored bv Henrv V Interview between Edward IV. and the " King-maker "— Camden's Account of the Palace— ids tudes of the Palace— A Royal CONTENTS. IX PAGrr Hoard — Visit of the Emperor Charles V.— The Princess Elizabeth entertained here by Queen Mary— Queen Elizabeth at Richmond — Her Death— Habits of the Queen — Her Burial at Westminster — Henry, Prince of Wales, son of James I., resident at Richmond Palace— Settlement of the Palace on Queen Henrietta Maria — A Survey of the Palace by Order of the Parliament- Decay and Demolition ofthe Palace — Asgill House— Gi^rge III. and the Gatekeeper— The Mor&stery of Sheen— The Head of James IV.. King of Scotland — The Convent of Observant Friars 330

Chapter XXXIX. Richmond

[continued)— THE ROYAL PARKS, ETC. Earliest Record of a Park at Richmond— The Lodge in the Little Park— It becomes a Royal Residence in place ofthe Old Palace — A Lease ofthe Lodge granted to the Duke of Ormonde — Mackay's Description of the Building — Bishop Atterbury and the Sceptic — Reception of the News of the Death of George I. by the Prince of Wales— Queen Caroline's Fondness for Richmond— George the Second's Partiality for Punch— The King and the Cardener— The Lodge Settled on Queen Charlotte— The Gardens and Ornamental Buildings— Description of Merlin's Cave— The Character of Merlin— Stephen Duck Appointed Keeper of the Grotto and Library— The Hermitage— Clarence House 344

Chapter XL

RICHMOND— THE NEW PARK. The New or Great Park — Its Enclosure in 1637— The Park Seized by the Commoners in the time of the Civil War, and given to the Citizens of London — It is given back to the King at the Restoration — The Park given to the Hyde Family — A Lawsuit respecting the "right of way" through the Park — The Rangership — Extent and General Appearance ofthe Park — Its Natural History — Pembroke Lodge— Lord Russell— Thatched House Lodge— White Lodge , 35 *

Chapter XLI. Richmond

(continued)- -THE TOWN. Railways, &c. — Population — The Green — The Free Public Library — The Theatre— Edmund Kean— George Colman the Younger— Richmond Wells — The Original Theatre at Richmond— Remains of the Old Palace — Fitzwilliam House — Sir Matthew Decker- John James Heidegger — Abbotsdene— The Parish Church —Thomson's Monument — Eminent Persons buried at Richmond Church- Extracts from, the Parish Register— St. John's' Church.— Holy Trinity — Christ Church— Roman Catholic and Independent Chapels •-—The Cemetery— Wesleyan Theological Institution— Almshouses — The Hospital — Societies and Public Institutions — Incorporation of the Town — Drainage and Water Supply — The Town Hall — The Lock and Footbridge— Richmond Bridge — Regattas — Devonshire ( ottage— The Vineyards— Richmond Hill— The Terrace— The Wick— Buccleuch House— " Terrace Gardens"— The " Lass of , Richmond Hill" — The " Star and Garter'' — Sir Joshua Reynolds's Retreat— The King and the Card-maker- Duppa's Almshouses — Ancaster House— The Wells House— " Maids of Honour " 35^

CHAPTER XLIL RICHMOND

(continued)— EMINENT RESIDENTS. Sir Robert Dudley — The Dulce of Clarence — The Duchess of Queensberry— The Duke of Queensberry, "old Q." — James Thomson the Poet— Thomson's Alcove— His Character— His Death and Burial— Rosedale House— Pagoda House— The Selwyn Family— The Herveys— Lord Marchmont— Nicholas Brady— Bishop Duppa— Lichfield House— Mrs. Maxwel! (Miss Brad don)— Egerton House. 383

CHAPTER XL III.

KEW. Situation and Soil of Kew — Its Etymology— The Village— Suffolk Place — Kew House — Sir Henry Capel's Orangery— Kew House taken as a Royal Residence — Its Demolition, and a New Palace built, which was also pulled down — The Present Palace — Bubb Dodington at Kew — News of the Death of George I. brought to the Prii.ce of Wales— Feud between the King and the Prince of Wales— Death of George II. — Seclusion of George III. — Queen Charlotte's Christmas Trees — The King's Insanity — The King and the Artist — Death of Queen Charlotte — Attempt to Assassinate the Duke of Cumberland — Marriage of the Duke of Clarence and the Duke of Kent — Kew Observatory — The Parish Church— The Graves of Zoffany, Meyer, and Gainsborough — The Rev. Rich-ird Byam— Stephen Duck — Caleb Colton— Granville Sharpe— Sir Arthur Helps— Francis Bauer— Sir John Puckering— " The Pilgrim" Inn— The River Thames— Kew Bridge 3^9 X PAGE 410

CHAPTER XLIV. KEW GARDENS.

Sir Henry Capel's Garden in the Seventeenth Century-The Pleasure Grounds of Kew House began by the Prince of Wales— Improvement of the Gardens under Sir Joseph Banks-The Gardens taken in charge by the Commissioners of Woods and Forests- Appointment of Sir William Hooker as Director and Mr. John Smith as Curator-Transformation of the Botanic Gardens- Formation of the Museum of Practical or Economical Botany-Additions to the Pleasure Grounds-Extent and Condition of the Gardens in ,840-General Description of Kew Gardens-The Entrance Gateways-The Old Orangery now Museum No. 3-The Temple of the Sun-The Herbaceous Grounds-Museum No. s-The Temple ofÆolus-The Tropical Aquarium The Victoria Regia-The Orchid House-The Succulent House -Tropical Fern House-The Great Palm House-Museum No. 1- The Old Arboretum-The Pleasure Grounds-The Chinese Pagoda-The Ruin-The Temple of Victory-The Pantheon-The Flagstaff-The Temperate House, or Winter Garden-Miss North's Collection of Paintings-The " Queen's Cottage "-Mr. William Aiton-William Cobbett-Sir William Jackson Hooker-Sir Joseph D. Hooker -The Herbarium-The Jodrell Laboratory .

CHAPTER XLV. MORTLAKE.

Situation and Boundaries of Mortlake— Population— Its Etymology— Descent of the Manor— The Parish Church— Sir John Barnard —The Catholic Church of St. Mary Magdalen— Christ Church— Boot and Shoemakers' Benevolent Institution— Oliver Cromwell's House— Sir Henry Taylor— East Sheen— Edward Jesse— Amy Robsart— Sir Robert Dudley— Sir William Temple— Dr. Pinckney's School— Lord Castlereagh— Lord Grey- Sir Archibald Macdonald— Mr. W. S. Gilpin— Dr. Dee, the Astrologer— Mortlake Tapestry Works — Potteries 4Z5

CHAPTER XLVI. THE UNIVERSITY BOAT RACE.

The Crowds of Spectators brought together to witness the Race — The " Blue" Fever— Interest to Londoners occasioned by the University Boat-Race — Scenes of the Road from London on the Boat-Race Day— Popularity of the Boat-Race among the Ladies of England — Scenes on the River — The Press-Boat and the Umpire's Steamer — By Rail to the Scene of the Race — Putney and Mortlake on Boat- Race Day — Description of the Race — Past History of Rowing as an old English Amusement — The Race for Doggett's Coat and Badge — A London Regatta — The First Students' Race upon the Thames— The Earliest Race between the Universities of Oxford and Cambridge— Accounts of subsequent Races— Table showing the Results of the Race from its Institution. 439

CHAPTER XLVII. BARNES.

Situation, Boundaries, and Extent of the Parish— Its Etymology— History of the Manor— Its several Lessees— The Parish Church —Dr. Hezekiah Burton— Dr. Francis Hare— Dr. John Hume— Dr. Warner— Dr. Christopher Wilson— Canon Melvill— The Rev. John Ellerton— Robert Beale— Mr. Hiam, otherwise Abiezer Coppe— Yew-trees— Barnes Terrace— Murder ol the Count and Countess D'Antraigues — Mr. Bolton Corney— Lady Archer — Barnes Common — An Impertinent Hoax — Henry Fielding, the Novelist — Other Noted Residents— Castlenau— West Middlesex Waterworks— Hammersmith Suspension Bridge— The Culture of Cedar-trees carried on at Barnes— Barn Elms— Jacob Tonson and the Kit-Cat Club— Sir Francis Walsingham and Queen Elizabeth— Heidegger, Master of the Revels to George II.— Cowley the Poet— Pepys' Visits to Barn Elms— Duel between the Duke of Buckingham and the Earl of Shrewsbury— Madder grown at Barn Elms— Cobbett here cultivated Indian Corn— The Mansion of Barn Elms modernised by Sir Richard Hoare— Sir John and Lady Kennedy— Sir Lancelot Shadwell 450

CHAPTER XLVIII. ROEHAMPTON.

Situation and General Appearance os the Parish— Population— Putney or Mortlake Park— The Earl of Portland, Lord Treasurer- Christian, Countess of Devonshire— Roehampton Grove— Mrs. Lyne-Stephens rUe Duvernay— The Roman Catholic Convent— Lord Ellenborough— The Parish Church— Roehampton House — Parkstead— The Earl of Bessborough— Manresa House— A Jesuit Community—Lord Rockingham— Lord Giffard— Lord Langdale— Sir J. L. Knight-Bruce— Royal School for Daughters of Military Officers — Mount Clare— Dover House and Devonshire House— Roehampton Gate .... CONTENTS. XI

CHAPTER XLIX. WIMBLEDON.

S__Ua:__ii and Boundaries cf the Parish-Its Etymology— Early History ofthe Manor -Burstow Park -The Cromwell Family— The Cecils- Queen Elizabeth at Wimbledon— Visit of James I. to the Eail of Exeter at Wimbledon— Queen Victoria at the Manor House- The V iscountcy of Wimbledon— The Manor bought by Queen Henrietta Maria-It is afterwards owned by General Lambert, but again reverts to Queen Henrietta Maria— Thomas Osborne, Earl of Danby, afterwards Marquis of Carmarthen and Duke of Lceds-The Manor House rebuilt by Sir Theodore Janssen— The Park formed *>y Lord Spencer— The present Manor House— An Artesian Well— Description of ihe original Manor House . 469

CHAPTER L. WIMBLEDON

(continued)— THE CHURCH, ETC. Gercial Aspect ofthe P.,rish -Its Population -The Beverley Brook-Site of Walter Cromwell's Fulling M.ll— The old Villagc-TI.e Parish Church— The old Pars mage— Christ Church - Other Churches and Chapels -The Cemetery— Local Board of Health— Hospitals, Clubs, and other Public Institutions— Wimbledon Green— lh_ London Scottish Golf Club— The Wimbledon Sewage Works-Eminent Residents— Pitt— Schopenhauer- John Horne Tooke— Joseph Marryatt— Sir H. W. Peek— Lady Anne Barnard— Captain Frederick Marryatt— The Countess of Guildford— Lord North— General Sir Henry Murray-Sir Francis Burdett — Mr. William Wilberforce— Sir John Richardson- Mr. John Murray— Mr. William Giffard— Mr. James Perry— Mr. Lyde Browne— The Duke of Cannizaro — The Marquis of Rockingham— Copse Hill— Cottenham Park— The Earl o' Durh m— Convalescent Hospital— Miss El'za Cook- Jenny I in J -Sir Bartle Frere 479

CHAPTER LI. WIMBLEDON

(continued) -THE COMMON. Kxtent and Boundaries ofthe Common — Ils Management— General Description of its Scenery— The Windmill and the Roman Well — Rare Birds— The Gibbets— Jerry Abershaw, the High way m n — Duels between the Duke of York and Colonel Lennox, Mr. Pitt and Mr. Tierney, Mr. James Pauli and Sir Francis Burdett, Lord Castlereagh and Mr. Canning, Mr. George Payne and Mr. Clarke, the Marquis of Londonderry and Mr. Kenry Grattan, Prin c Louis Napoleon and Count Leon, and the E _rl of Cardigan and Captain Tuckett— The Earthwork commonly called " Cæsar's Camp " 489 CHAPTER LIT. WIMBLEDON (continued)— THE VOLUNTEER ENCAMPMENT. Formation of the First Volunteer Association for the Defence of the Country— First Royal Volunteer Review at Wimbledon- Numerical Strength of the Volunteers of Old— Fiery Enthusiasm of the Country at the beginning of the Present Century — Patriotic Songs, &c— A Defence of the Volunteer System— Revival of the Volunteer Movement in 1859— Formation of the Force— Captain Hans Busk— The Fiist Volunteer Review by Queen Victoria — Inauguration oi the National Rifle Association at Wimbledon — Camp Life— La- 1 Contest for the Queen's Prize at Wimbledon 497

CHAPTER LI

1 1. MALDEN AND MORDEN. __Jryi*sf61ogy of Maiden— Its Situation and Boundaries— Population — Improvement in the Roads— Descent of the Mahor— The Original House of Scholars sounded by Bishop Merton-— Worcester Park — The Parish Church — Bishop Ravis— The Rev. Edmund Hinton — Situation and Boundaries of Morden— Description of the Village — Census Returns— History of the Manor— The Garth Family — -Mr. Abraham Goldsmid— Morden Park— The Parish Church— The Schools . . 509

CHAPTER LIV. MERTON.

iSiiuition and Boundaries ofthe Parish— The Village and its Surroundings— Paper Mills and Factories— Railway Stations— Population- How the Poor are Robbed — Early Historical Events — Descent of the Manor — Merton Abbey — The Statutes of Merton — Thomas a Becket and Walter de Merton — Dissolution of the Abbey — Remains of the Monastic Buildings — Merton Church— Merton Place- Sir William and I^dy Hamilton and Lord Nelson-Residents here— The Fate of Lady Hamilton