Our life and travels in India

Preface

. The following pages, descriptive of Indian scenes and character, as well as of our life in the far East for a period of two years, are written from memory, and from jottings in a diary, systematically kept by us during all our wanderings. I am indebted to the works on the principal cities of India, written by a distinguished member of the Civil Service, Mr. H. G. Keene, for much of my information with regard to the places visited. Elphinstone's History of India, Professor Williams's Hinduism, and other works of a similar character, were also consulted for accurate facts concerning the history, religions, and manners and customs of the natives. Although originally intended merely as an extended record of our daily life in the country, as it progressed it began to assume larger proportions ; and descriptions of places, people, character, religion, and other matters not immediately con nected with a purely personal account of our movements, crept in.

These coming under our own observation were naturally of great interest to ourselves; and on the supposi tion that they might prove so to others, I was tempted to VI Preface. enlarge on the original plan, and enter more fully into Indian topics, with which a previous extended residence, joined to the experience of later years, had made me familiar. Although not claiming for these pages the merit of a literary work on Eastern matters for general publication, I venture to lay them before the indulgent criticism of relatives and friends as giving a faithful account of all we have seen and done during our absence, together with slight sketches of various matters connected with the country and its inhabi tants, in the hope that they may prove interesting to those who, although divided from us by wide seas, were ever present in our thoughts during the wanderings, pleasures, trials, and perils which I have attempted to portray. North Hill House, Plymouth, March, 1878. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Receive Orders to proceed to India — Our Embarkation at Portsmouth — Her Majesty's Indian Transports — Rough night at Sea — Sketch of daily life on board — Gibraltar — The Mediterranean — Arrival at Malta — Description of Malta— History of Malta— The Church of St. John— Knights of Malta— The Palace — Monastery of the Capuchins — Their mode of disposal of the Dead — The Strada Reale — Diving propensities of the Natives — Departure from Malta — Sickness on board — Passage to Port Said — Town of Port Said . Page I

Chapter II

Departure from Port Said — The Suez Canal — History of the Suez Canal — Suez — The Red Sea — Passage of the Israelites — Journey down the Red Sea — Island of Perim — Its Garrison — Outwitting the French — Aden — Its inhabitants — The Tanks — Burial at Sea — The Indian Ocean — Phosphorescence of the Sea — Arrival off Colaba — Lottery as to time of arrival — My illness — Arrival at Bombay . . . . . ... 19

Chapter III

Introduction — Geographical description of India — Boundaries — Divisions — Mountains — Rivers — Lakes — Desert — Early history of India — Greek Invasion — Modern history — Mahmoud of Ghuzni — Invasion of Arabs — Alexander the Great — Pillage of Somnath — Ancient form of government — Origin of Mohammedan empire — House of Ghor — Pathan dynasty founded — Invasion of Moguls — Baber — Mogul dynasty — Mogul Emperors — Dissolution of the empire — Rise of British power — The Portuguese — East India Company — The French in India — Clive — Warren Hastings — Title of Viceroy — Change in government — The Viceroys of India — Sepoy Revolt — End of East India Company — The Native States — The Presidencies — Mode of government— The Civil Service . . • ■ • Contents. VIII

Chapter IV

Description of Bombay — The Harbour — Historical sketch — Appearance of the Town— The Fort— The commercial part— The Merchants— State of Trade— The principal buildings— The University— The Post Office— The Cathedral— Crawford Market — European shops — Population— Mohammedans — Hindus — Early history of the Hindus — Aboriginal tribes of India — Eurasians — Suburbs of Bombay — Our drive — The weather— The native town — The Bazaar — Dress of the people — Description of Bazaar — Mode of business — Malabar Hill — The Towers of Silence — The Parsees — Their history — Their religion — Their mode of Burial — Birds of Prey — Their utility— Return to Hotel— Indian Moonlight — Preparations for departure . . . ... 5"

Chapter V

The Religions of India — The Hindu religion — Its antiquity — Its earliest form — The Vedas — Their doctrines — Doctrine of Monotheism — The god Brahma — Doctrine of Transmigration — The religious rites — The present state of the Hindu religion — Its principal doctrines — The Hindu Pantheon — Practical part of Hindu worship — The Hindu sects — Effects of the Hindu religion — The Buddhist religion — Its origin, doctrines, and ritual — The Jain religion — Its doctrines — Jain Temples — The Mohammedan religion — Its origin — The Koran — Its doctrines — Din, or practical part of Islam — The Sonnites and Shiites — Christianity in India — Its introduction and present condition — The institution of Caste — Its origin — Caste in its original form — Caste as at present practised . . . . . ... 78

Chapter VI

Departure from Bombay — Railway system in India — A railway station — Scenery on the line — Passage of the Ghauts — The Deccan — The Minerals of India View from the Ghauts — Fortress of Asseeghur — The Forests of India — Arrival at Jubbulpur — Indian Hotels — Station of Jubbulpur — The Marble Rocks Our expedition — Native industry — The Ry_ots — Indian Agriculture — The Land-tax- Irrigation of the Land — Description of the Rocks — Ancient Buddhist Temple Stone-carving — Cave -temples of India — Their antiquity — Architecture of the Hindus — Art of Sculpture — The Buddhist Temples — The Jain Temples The Hindu Temples — Architecture during Mohammedan ascendancy — The Saracenic school — The Hindustani school — A Monkey incident — Return to the Hotel Evening reflections . . . . . ..lie "S

Chapter VII

Arrival at Allahabad — Description of Allahabad— Its history — The Station The Fort — Pillar of Asoka — Sacred Banian tree — Departure for Cawnpore The Contents. IX journey— The Railway Station— City of Cawnpore— Its history— The Canton ment—Memorial Church— Wheeler's Entrenchment— Story of the Siege— The Massacre— Slaughter Ghaut— The Civil Station— Scene of final Tragedy—Suffer ings of the Victims— The Well— Inscription on Well— Memorial Garden- Motives of Nana Sahib— His history— His after-fate— Pontoon Bridge—Manu factures of Cawnpore— Tanning— Cotton-spinning— Arrival at Lucknow— Change of duty — Our daily doings— Description of an Indian Station— The Cantonments — The Barracks— The Civil Lines . . . . 144 144

Chapter VIII

City of Lucknow — History of Lucknow — The Kings of Oudh — Modern city of Lucknow — The European Station — The Palace of the Kaisar-Bagh — Origin of the Name— The Fish Emblem — The Chattar Manzil— The Lall Baraderi— Machi Bhawan Fort— The Great Imambara — Feast of the Moharam— The Hosenabad — The Jama Musjid — The Residency — Story of the Siege— The Alam-Bagh — The Dil-Kusha — The Sikandar-Bagh — The Martiniere — Its founder Martine — Departure for Faizabad — The Journey — Its Discomfort — Arrival at Faizabad — Obtain a Bungalow — Etiquette of Visiting in India — Social law of Society — Its probable Origin, and present Condition. . . 163

Chapter IX

The Seasons in India — The hot weather — Its variations and effects — The rainy weather — Its effects — The cold weather— Its variations and effects — Influence of climate on Europeans — Modes of cooling Houses — Khuskus Tatties — Thermantidotes — Punkahs — Punkah pulling — Its drawbacks — Our Bungalow — Description of Indian House — Establishment of Servants — Their number— Difference in respective Presidencies — Establishment in northern Bengal — Their expense — Difference of Creed and Caste — Its effects — Enumeration of Servants — The Khansamah — The Khitmutgar — His assistants — Their costume — The Bobberchee — An Indian Kitchen — The Bearer — The Ayah — The Bhestie — The Dhobie — The Mehtar — The Chowkedar — Theft in India — The Syce — The Gascutt — The Mahlie — The Coolies— Their duties — General character of Indian Servants . . . . . ... 182

Chapter X

Description of Faizabad — Nepaul — Faizabad native city and station — Routine of life — Our servant Esau — The Park — A Moonlight Picnic — Native Gardens — Flowers of India — Fruit and Vegetables of India — The god Rama — The Sanskrit Language — The Languages of Tndia — Connection with Indo-European family of languages — Literature of India — Sacred and heroic Poems — The Vedas — The Institutes of Menu — The Puranas — Dramatic literature — Mode of Contents. X acting— Hindu Tales and Fables— Progress of the Hindus in Geography, Logic, Astronomy, Mathematics, Medicine, and Chemistry — State of Education in India— Causes of ignorance— The evil effects of the Brahman influence— Former system of Education— Present system — Government schools — The Universities — Elementary schools— Female Education— General remarks on present state of Education — Its probable results . • ... 209

Chapter XI

Approach of the Monsoon— A Dust-storm— A Thunder-storm in the Tropics — Effect of the Monsoon— The City of Ajudhya— Its history— The King Rama— The antiquity of Ajudhya — Receive orders to proceed to Gwalior — Departure from Faizabad— Destruction of Bridge at Cawnpore— Journey to Agra — Arrival at Agra— The City of Agra— The Fort— Gates of the Fortress— The Palace— The architecture of Agra — The Dewan-i-khas — The Dewan-i-am — The Zenana — The Shish-Mahal — Eastern Game of Backgammon — The Thrones — The Jasmine Tower — Description of the Palace — The Motee -Musjid, or Pearl Mosque — The Somnath gates — Their history — Mr. Simpson's denial of their authenticity — The Taj — The Begum Moomtaz-i-Mahal — History of the Taj — Its cost — Description of the Taj — The garden — The exterior — The interior — Measurements of the Taj — The Taj by moonlight . . . 239

Chapter XII

The Tombs in Agra — Tomb of Itmad-ood-Dowlah — The Cheene-ka-Roza — Sikundra — Futtehpur-Sekri — Its history — Its ruins — Bhurtpur — Muttra — History of Muttra — Stone industries of Agra — Mosaic work — Jalee — Soapstone carving — Departure from Agra — The Indian Dak Gharry — The road to Gwalior — Dholepur — Indian Dak Bungalow — A Rest-house Dinner — Continue the journey — River Chumbul — Perils of the way — Arrival at Gwalior — Visit to the Fortress — Our quarters in Fortress — Description of Fortress — Gwalior Its History — The Cantonment of Morar — Garrison of Morar — The Army in India The Police Force — The Native Army — Its reorganization — Its loyalty Causes that might lead to a Mutiny— Securities against a repetition of acts like those of 1857 • • ■ • . ... 265

Chapter XIII

The Independent Natives— States of India — Their tenure of power — Their classification—The Hill Tribes— The Sikh States— The Sovereignties of Rajputana Their history— The Rajputs— Their feudal system— The State of Marwar— The Rana of Oudipur— The State of Jaipur— Jaipur— Bhurtpur— Its history— The Central India States — The Mahrattas — Sevaji — Their rise and fall The Peishwa— State of Gwalior— The Maharajah Scindia— His family State of Contents. XI Indore-Holkar-The Begum of Bhopal-Guzerat States-The Guicowar of Baroda -The Chiefs of Kutch and Kattywar-The Haidarabad State -The Nizam-His history-State of Mysore-Its ruler- Tippoo Sahib-His actions —The Malayalam States-Travancore-Cochin-Concluding remarks . 286

Chapter XIV

Life in the Fortress— Effects of the Rains— Snakes in India— The Frogs— The Habits of Snakes -The Cobra— Unpleasant Discovery— Variety of Snakes in Fortress — Snake-bite— Indian Snake-charmers— Indian Jugglers— The Mango Trick— The Ruins in Fortress— The Palace— Jain Idols— Temples of the Jainas— Description of Jain Temple— The City of Gwalior— The Rajah's Palace — The Lushkur— Indian Music — Festivals of the Hindus— Religious Festivals — Indian_ Fairs— Hindu Marriages — Their Extravagance — The Marriage Ceremony— Incident at a Marriage— Condition of Married Women in India — Their Seclusion — Hindu Widows — Re-marriage of a Widow — Caste Rules relating to Remarriage— The Suttee— Its Origin— Motives of the Act— Nautch Girls — Their Dress — An Indian Nautch . . . .313 3-3

Chapter XV

Shooting expedition to the Jungle — The Spear-grass — Its effects — Our day in the Jungle — A mishap — Our return to the Fortress — Capture of supposed Nana Sahib — Probable reason for the imposture — Fate of the Impostor — Camp life in India — Start for a shooting excursion — Mahona — Jackals and Hyenas — Garra Ghaut — Arrival in Camp — Sport in India — Tiger-shooting — Fox-hunting in India — Pig-sticking — Our life in the Jungle — Our Commissariat arrangements — Peculiarities of Hindu living — Influence of caste on eating and drinking — A Brahman dinner — Food of the Hindus — Use of Rice — Use of Asafœtida — Hindu beverages — Drunkenness among natives — Hindu luxuries — The Betel-nut — Christmas-day — Chase after Leopard — Attacked with illness — Our return to the Fortress — Termination of our first year in India . ... 343

Chapter XVI

The New Year — Horse-racing in India — The Race Lottery— Commencement of the hot weather — Our Maid's Wedding — The Leave Season in India — Indian Hill stations — Their utility for the British troops — Hill stations of the Bengal Presidency — Simla — Nynee Tai — Mussoorie — Subathu — Darjeeling — Darjeeling tea — Cultivation of tea in India — Hill stations in Madras — The Neilgherry hills — Hill stations of the Bombay Presidency — The Ghauts — Mahableshwur — Increased heat of the weather — Sickness in the Fortress — Heat-apoplexy — Sunstroke — Cholera — Theory of the disease — History of Cholera in India — Causes of Cholera — Its propagation — Small-pox — Vaccination in India — Science of Medicine in India — Its practice in former days — Its condition at present . Contents. XII

Chapter XVII

Departure for Kashmir— Dak to Agra— Railway journey to Lahore— Meerut— Umballa— Jullunder— The river Sutlej— City of Umritsur— Its history— The Golden Temple— Lahore— Territory of the Punjab— The Five Rivers— Description of the Punjab— Its population— The Sikhs— History of the Punjab— Rise of the Sikhs— Their origin— Religion of the Sikhs— Founder of their religion— The Guru Nanak— His life and work— His successors— Guru Govind Singh — The Sikhs and the Mohammedans— Rise of the Sikh power— Runjeet Singh— His successors— Maharajah Dhuleep Singh— Sikh wars with the English— Fall of the Sikh power — The Koh-i-noor Diamond— City of Lahore — Its buildings — Mausoleum of Jehangir— The Fort and Palace— The Civil Station— Arrival at Wuzzeerabad — Crossing the Chenab — Gujerat— Jhelum — Rawul Pindi — Arrival at Murree — Description of Murree — Start for Kashmir . . . 386

Chapter XVIII

Return from Kashmir — Arrival at Gujerat — Receive Orders to Proceed to Rawul Pindi — Arrival at that Station — Rawul Pindi — Attacked by Illness —Shocks of Earthquake — Am Invalided — Departure for England — Journey to Delhi — Description of Delhi — History of Old Delhi — The line of Slave Kings of Delhi — The House of Lodi — Conquest of Delhi by Timour — The ruins of Old Delhi — The Fortifications — The Kootub Minar — The Mosque — Ancient Hindu Iron Pillar — Tomb of Altumsh — City of Seri — Juhanpura — Ruins of Toghlukabad — The Fort — Tomb of Toghluck Shah — The City of Feerozabad — The Buddhist Monolith — Tomb of the Emperor Homayoon — Capture of Rebel Princes — The Cemetery of Nizam-ud-din — His Tomb — Tomb of the Poet Khoosroo — The Bowlee, or Wellhouse — Diving Talent of the Natives — The Mosque of Keerkee — The Tomb of Sufdur Jung . . . 410

Chapter XIX

The City of Shah Juhan, or New Delhi — Description of Delhi — Its modern Buildings — The Chandnee Chouk Bazaar — The Fortress — Gateways of the Fortress — The Palace — The Dewan-i-am — The Dewan-i-khas — The Peacock Throne — Private Apartments of the Emperor— The Hummam— The Ghoosul- Khana — Scenes enacted within the Palace — The Great Mosque, or Jama Musjid — Relics of the Prophet Mohamed — The Kala Musjid — History of the Siege of Delhi— Incidents during the Mutiny — General Nicholson— The Memorial Column — Departure for Allahabad — Benares — Its Temples Province of Bengal — Its history— The City of Calcutta — Its history— Its Buildings — Our Journey to Bombay — Departure for England — Arrival in England — Conclusion .... _ .,. • INDIA.

Chapter I

Receive orders to proceed to India— Our embarkation at Portsmouth — Her Majesty's Indian Transports — Rough night at sea — Sketch of daily life on board — Gibraltar — The Mediterranean — Arrival at Malta — Description of Malta— History of Malta— The Church of St. John— Knights of Malta— The Palace — Monastery of the Capuchins — Their mode of disposal of the dead — The Strada Reale — Diving propensities of the natives — Departure from Malta — Sickness on board — Passage to Port Said — Town of Port Said. In the summer of 1873, as I had received the appointment of Staff-Surgeon in the Island of Guernsey, both myself and wife not unreasonably formed hopes of a residence there for some little period. But unfortunately the uncertainty of a military life, and the laudable but unceasing activity displayed by the authorities in inaugurating the new system, termed the Unification of the Army Medical Department — which had already cost me the loss of my regiment, the Carabineers— were exemplified in our case ; for, after a most pleasant tenure of my appointment for five months, a telegram received on the afternoon of the 12th December curtly told me to hold myself in readiness to embark for India with the 13th Hussars, and that the troop-ship to convey that regiment was to leave Portsmouth on the 8th of January.

B fndia. 2 Not being over anxious to go to the East, my first thought was to proceed to London, to ascertain if any change in our movements could be effected. Any hopes we had formed as to an alteration in the order received were quickly dispelled, however, shortly after my arrival at head-quarters ; for an interview with the Director-General, the head of my department, made it plainly apparent that, unless I chose to resign the service, the original order must be obeyed, as the only alternative that could be offered me was to proceed to the Gold Coast, and take part in the Ashantee war, then in progress. Having no ambition to distinguish myself in that malarious region, of the two evils I chose the lesser. Our preparations for a sojourn in the sunny East were soon made ; and after bidding farewell to our relatives and friends, then assembled in London, celebrating the nuptials of a member of the family, we went to Plymouth, and spent Christmas with our relations there.

The 6th of January saw us en route to Ports mouth, the port of our departure for the land of Ind. The morning of the 8th, the day fixed for us to leave our native country in the Serapis, broke dark and gloomy, and rain, accompanied with high wind, did not promise an agreeable first night at sea. On our arrival at the ship, a few hours before the time of sailing, we found the regiment to which I was attached, as well as the drafts belonging to other corps already on board. Many of the officers we had met when stationed at Aldershot, and it was pleasant to feel that we were not utter strangers to our companions on the long voyage that lay before us. In a short time the sound of the bell was heard, warning those on board not bound for the East to proceed on shore The fndian Transports. 3 Very soon the ship was cleared, and preparations made for departure ; and at four o'clock, with the band playing 'Auld lang syne,' amidst the cheers of the friends of the regiment assembled on the quay, we slowly left the shores.

The first hour or two, while in Southampton Water, all was pleasant enough, and that time was occupied in putting our effects in order in our respective cabins. The Serapis is one of her Majesty's five Indian transports, which are employed in the conveyance of troops between the mother country and her great Eastern dominion. They are all similar in build and size, and can carry on each voyage a great number of people. We had nearly eighteen hundred souls on board, and, as may be imagined, both officers and men were rather crowded. Being built very high these transports have several decks, which enlarges greatly their passenger capacity, with the defect, how ever, of causing them to roll in a heavy sea, their breadth not being in the same proportion. They are fitted with every convenience for comfort, as well as with every appliance for the purpose of ventilation, so necessary in a crowded ship, especially in the warmer latitudes.

Forming part of the Royal Navy, they are officered and manned entirely from that profession, the captain of the ship being supreme over all ; even the commanding-officer of the troops on board, what ever his rank, being subordinate while at sea. Take them in all, they are comfortable enough, and a great blessing to the soldiers, who formerly had to make the voyage to India in crowded sailing vessels round the Cape, the discomfort and irksome monotony of which can only be realized by those who have endured it. Directly we passed the Isle of Wight, we began to feel the Lndia. 4 force of the wind, which was now blowing a perfect gale, and the sea, running high in proportion, caused such a pitching and rolling of the vessel, as very soon had its accustomed effect. Shortly after leaving the shelter of the land, and entering on the open Channel, nearly all on board therefore were enduring the agonies of sea-sickness.

All the ladies succumbed early ; and after taking my wife to her cabin, which we found already tenanted by the three ladies who shared with her its occupancy, in various stages of the malady, I descended to the lower deck to obtain, if possible, the services of one of the soldiers' wives to act as nurse, as the maid, who, as well as our little dog Fizz, followed our fortunes, was in the same prostrate condition as her mistress. Very fortunately for us an elderly female, who had followed the drum in various parts of the globe for over thirty years, and who, according to her showing, was proof against the ills that flesh is heir to at sea, volunteered her help, and a very efficient nurse she subsequently proved to be, continuing to act as stewardess to that particular cabin throughout the voyage.

Our first dinner on board was' a perfect farce. Very few of our number assembled to do honour to that important meal and every lurch of the ship caused a hurried departure of one or more of the convives. Judging from my own feelings I should consider that, with the exception of the naval officers none of us felt very comfortable, although some of us con tinued in our places with a grim calmness worthy of a better cause. The gale continued all night ; and the pitching and rolling we endured in consequence were terrible. Nor were the much lessened the next day ; for although the wind fell the 'Life on the Ocean Wave.' 5 sea continued to run very high. This, however, gradually subsided ; and on Saturday morning, as we entered the generally much-dreaded Bay of Biscay, glorious sunshine, and the almost perfect calmness of our hitherto relentless enemy, bade us hope for better things.

We were not disappointed ; for splendid weather followed, causing all the invalids to regain their usual health and spirits; and the ordinary routine of life at sea now fairly commenced. ' Life on the ocean wave,' however pleasant and poetical it may appear in song, is prosaic and monotonous enough in reality, so much so indeed, that a brief sketch of one day will amply suffice to give an idea of our daily doings, from the commencement until the termination of the voyage. Although breakfast is not until half-past eight, all on board are early risers ; and soon after daybreak most of the gentlemen are astir, seeking their matutinal tub. To insure this with com fort, it behoves one to be prompt ; for the supply of baths is limited, and the general rule of first come first served is rigidly adhered to.

For those who prefer it, there are sails filled with water on deck, or a sailor is always willing to play a hose over you. Both these modes of ablution are greatly appreciated in the warmer latitudes ; but at first the coldness of both air and water is sufficient to deter any but the ultra robust from availing themselves of them at such an early hour. The ladies, being few in number, and having a bath room attached to each of the two cabins set apart for their occupation, are amply provided for, and are consequently spared the trouble experienced by the sterner sex as regards this part of the morning toilet. After breakfast all proceed on deck, and at ten o'clock the fndia. ' assembly ' sounds for the troops to fall in for inspection by their respective officers. At this hour, too, the medical officers visit the hospital, and perform all the duties appertaining to their department.

At noon a light lunch is served, after which, until dinner, the time is usually passed on deck, reading, talking, or promenading up and down for the sake of exercise. At four o'clock all go below to dress for dinner, and at half-past four that meal, the great event of the day, is served. The living on board the Serapis was excellent ; and for everything, including beer and sherry, with port and claret at dessert, each officer was charged three shillings and sixpence per day, and each lady four shillings. Other wines could also be obtained, as well as spirits, soda-water, and similar extras, all of which were supplied at most reasonable rates. Dinner over, all adjourn to the deck, where smoking and talking form the chief amusement until tea-time. At this period of the day the band usually plays, and often an impromptu dance takes place, varied occasionally by a theatrical performance, or a concert, both vocal and instrumental ; plenty of amateurs, many with considerable talent, being readily found among the men of both services.

After tea, which is served at eight, reading, writing, cards, or con versation in the saloon, brings up the time until ten o'clock, when all usually retire to their cabins for the night. The lights are extinguished at half-past ten, and after that hour none but the officers on duty are to be seen about. Such is the ordinary routine of life at sea in Her Majesty's transports, varied only by arrival at and departure from any port of call, and on Sundays by divine service, conducted by the naval chaplain usually carried by these ships. Arrival at Malta. 7 The weather continued fine during the whole of our passage across the Bay, and soon we approached the rocky coast of Portugal, passing very close to Cape St. Vincent and the headland of Cintra, with its large nunnery perched on a rock overlooking the ocean.

Then, after running along the coast of Spain on one side, with the rugged shores of Morocco on the other, we arrived on Wednesday, the 14th, six days after leaving home, off Gibraltar. Sailing close inshore, we had a good view of that famous Rock and its fortifications. Continuing through the Straits, we entered the calm blue Mediterranean, and after passing Point de Gatta, shaping our course along the coast-line of Algeria and Tunis, on the following Monday we sighted Gozo, and at noon on the same day were anchored in the Valetta harbour of Malta. Unfortunately it just then commenced to rain, a rather uncommon occurrence in the island, where the usual yearly rainfall is very slight ; but as it was given out that we should leave early the next morning, no time was to be lost by those who wanted to see the sights of the place.

Consequently, very shortly after our arrival, the greater number of us were on shore, glad enough to tread terra firma again, even if only for a few hours. The island of Malta, the sky, and air, and country of which are African, while its life and civilization are European,* is the furthest from the main land of any of the numerous islands in the Mediterranean. Sicily, which approaches it most nearly, is sixty miles distant ; the coast of Italy is * According to Dr. Percy Badger, to whose work on the subject I am largely indebted for the historical and other facts mentioned in the following remarks. Lndia. 8 separated from it by one hundred and ninety miles of sea; and it is fully two hundred miles from the African shore. Its circumference is about sixty miles ; its greatest width twelve ; and it has a total length of nearly twenty.