A Family Tour through the British Empire ... The fifteenth edition. Corrected and enlarged

Preface

. The favourable reception of the '* Juvenile Travellers " has given encouragement to the present undertaking, with a design to con vey a general idea to the minds of children, of the variety of surface, produce, manufactures, and principal places of the British Empire ; connected with its geography, and the addition of historical and biographical anecdotes ; a species of knowledge both useful and ornamental, but so diffused in numerous publications, that a sketch, having the air of a real tour, and containing the prominent features of the subject, was thought likely to prove a valuable addition to the juvenile library.

PREFACE.

. In the execution of such a design, it is obvious that the author and the editors of subsequent editions, are indebted for mate rials, to a great number of the amusing and elegant tours, topographical and scientific works that have of late formed a favourite department of British literature. ERRATA. Page 21 for " stillate," read stellate. " 108 for " whiten," read whitlow. " 180 for " Ceedbear," read Cudbear. " 203 and 204 for " frecus," read fucus. " 454 for " Cave," read Cove. 455 for " vitch," read vetch. " fumitory, " read fumitory. " maddor," read madder. 463 for "It," read Southampton. 474 for " Houe," read Hove. 486 for " Durant," read Darent.

Chapter I

Mrs. Middleton determines to travel — Her party and plan — Windsor Castle — The Order of the Garter. One fine morning in May, as Mrs. Middleton, a widow lady, who resided in the beautiful village of Richmond, was sitting with her children at breakfast, Catherine, her eldest daughter, about eleven years of age, struck with the beauty of the season, exclaimed, " What a lovely morning ! How I should enjoy another journey ! Shall we not go to Brighton again, as we did last summer, mamma ? " No, my dear," said Mrs. Middleton : " we have not the same motive as on that occasion. Louisa's health is established, and I am not fond of watering-places : the manner of passing time at most of them, has a tendency to form habits of idleness and trifling, especially to the young : this summer, therefore, I intend to visit the lakes of Cumberland and Westmoreland; in the way B thither, you will have an opportunity of seeing much of the country, as we must pass through the middle of the kingdom."

" But shall we all go ?" said the little Louisa; a question in which her brothers eagerly joined, each fearful of not being included in the party. " Your health and improvement are the princi pal objects of my journey," replied Mrs. Middle ton : " I do not intend, therefore, to leave any of you at home ; and in return for this indulgence, I only require attention to those objects of interest, whether of nature or art, that may present them selves to your view. We do not travel for the amusement of the moment, but for the sake of collecting useful knowledge. I am not going to hurry from one end of the kingdom to the other, that I may boast of my adventures ; I intend to take sufficient time to inspect every thing worth observation, though it should lie a little out of the direct road, so far as it may be practicable.

" Mr. Franklin, one of my particular friends, a person of great worth and intelligence, will ac company us, as your tutor, my dear boys; and will probably travel with you through the northern counties, whilst your sisters and I take up our residence in some cottage on the borders of one of the lakes." " That will suit my taste completely," said Arthur, who was just fourteen : " novelty delights BERKSHIRE. me ; and when I am a man, I will travel all over the world." "Yet," said his mother: "a mere spirit of rambling is not what I desire for you. We travel not for travelling's sake ; we wish to see and judge for ourselves of the productions, the arts and manufactures of our native land, and of the habits of its people. All these subjects, with Mr. Franklin's aid, I hope will come before us in turn ; but now let us separate, for I must make the needful arrangements for this journey."

In a few days, every thing was ready for their departure : the expectation of pleasure put all the party in good humour, and they set out in high spirits, in an open carriage : a mode of travelling that Mrs. Middleton adopted, for the sake of seeing the country. The young people, however, somewhat regretted that, they must give up the pleasure of travelling to Slough by the Great Western Railroad. They stopped at Windsor the first day, as they were desirous of seeing the Castle, and the public buildings belonging to that town. Here, indeed, were so many attractions, that they determined to remain till their curiosity was satisfied. Walking on the noble terrace which surrounds the Castle, they were struck with admiration. "This is a residence fit for kings," said Edwin. " It has been the favourite palace of several of our early monarchs," replied Mr. Franklin.

"William the Norman laid the foundation of its present grandeur, by the erection of the castle, which served him for a hunting seat. His son, our first Henry, repaired and fortified it so skilfully, after the manner of those times, that it was esteemed next to the Tower, the most impregnable fortress in the kingdom. It was the birth place of Edward the Third, who displayed the magnificence of his taste, in his attachment to this spot where he first drew breath. He took down the ancient castle, and built a new one upon a larger scale, with the royal palace, its chapel, the round tower, St. George's Chapel and Hall, with the many other appurtenances. Besides the military purposes of defence, for which castles were then principally designed, they served as prisons for captives taken in battle.

John, king of France, and David, king of Scotland, both resided here as prisoners of war, in the reign of Edward the Third. John, king of France, was the captive of Edward the Black Prince, and was treated by him with the greatest respect and courtesy." They now entered the castle, and proceeded to the upper court or ward. This court is a spacious square, containing, on the north side, the royal apartments, and the Chapel and Hall of St. George. The other part is appropriated to different branches of the royal family, or to the officers of the crown. BERKSHIRE. There was a large expenditure on the castle in the reign of George the Fourth, many magnificent rooms were fitted up and furnished for royal luxury. A new corridor, especially, was built, which serves for a communication with the numerous apartments.

It commences at St. George's Hall, and sweeping round two angles of the quadrangu lar court, terminates at Edward the Third's tower. The grand kitchen, with its lofty roof also, they found well worth inspection, having, it is supposed, undergone little alteration since the time of the last mentioned king. The children were both surprised and delighted, on viewing the numerous apartments, splendidly adorned with handsome furniture, painted ceilings, fine pictures, rich gilding, and other ornaments ; but the size and magnificence of St. George's Hall are the most striking, and made a strong impression on their minds. Mr. Franklin explained every thing to them with great clearness, particularly the historical and em blematical paintings : by the latter are meant those that represent the virtues, vices, or passions of the mind, under the form of human beings.

Having attentively examined this part of the castle, Mrs. Middleton and her family proceeded to the Round Tower, which forms the west side of the upper court. It is inhabited by the governor of the castle, and stands on very high ground. It b3 contains many noble apartments. The guard-room is furnished with arms, which now serve more for ornament than use. The fatigue of ascending a hundred stone steps, was amply repaid by the extensive prospect seen from the summit of the tower ; it commands a beautiful view of the forest, and, in a clear day, the view extends over thirteen counties. The lower court, though more spacious than the upper, has less to engage a stranger's notice. It is chiefly surrounded with houses for the dean (a) and canons (b), and other officers belonging to the Chapel : the Poor Knights of Windsor are also here provided with habitations.

St. George's Chapel is situated in the lower court; after undergoing various alter ations in different reigns, it lay in a neglected state, till it was repaired by king George the Third, who adorned it with a fine altar-piece and a painted window, by modern artists. The Chapel is a beautiful Gothic edifice, and particularly admired for the construction of its stone roof, which is supported in a curious manner, by ribs from the clustered pillars. In the choir are the stalls of twenty-six knights of the order of St. George, and the banners, or painted flags, appropriate to each, hanging over them, with a throne for the sovereign. Mrs. Middleton thought her companions had seen enough for one day, and conducted them back to the inn, where the evening passed plea- BERKSHIRE. 7 santly, in conversing upon subjects connected with the castle and its history.

Edwin, who was one year younger than his brother, was a more silent character, and, from his diffidence, less pleasing to strangers ; but he was his superior in attention and industry. No sooner were they quietly seated in their own apartment, than he asked a variety of questions of Mr. Frank lin : amongst other things he desired to know what was meant by a Knight of the Garter, and to what use St. George's Hall was applied. " In the feudal (c) times," replied Mr. Frank lin, " war was the occupation of every gentleman ; and military orders, or companies of knights, were formed by sovereigns in many parts of Europe, either for defence against infidels, (a term given to those who do not profess the Christian or Jewish faith,) or as an honourable distinction to such as had performed any memorable action.

One of the most noble of these orders, is that of the Gar ter, established by Edward the Third, in 1344. It consists of a sovereign, who is always the King of England ; and twenty-six knights, many of whom have been sovereign princes. The poor knights are their pensioners, and are all gentlemen, who have either been wounded in the service of their country, or reduced by misfortune to poverty." " I think a prettier title than the garter might have been chosen," said Catherine. "The order is said to have received that name," said Mrs. Middleton, "from the countess of Salisbury having dropped her garter as she was dancing at a ball : the king found it, carried it to the lady, and formed this institution in honour of her." " This is the popular story," said Mr. Franklin, but some historians assert that it was established on account of the victorious battle of Cressy, where it is supposed the king's garter was displayed as a signal to begin the engagement; the motto however and the spirit of the times, tend to favour the first account."

St. George of Cappadocia," continued Mr. Franklin, "is the tutelar saint of this Order, as well as of England ; it is therefore often called the Order of St. George. The dress of the knights is extremely rich : on public occasions they wear a mantle of blue velvet thrown across the shoulders, with a high velvet cap, adorned with diamonds and feathers, according to the taste of the wearer: but their chief distinction, which they never lay aside, is a blue ribbon, crossing the body from the left shoulder; on this is fastened the picture of St. George, enamelled on gold, and ornamented with diamonds. Garter King at Arms is an officer who presides over the ceremonies of the installation of a knight." Here the children begged him to relate the forms used on this occasion, which he did as follows : " In former times," said he, " the knights elect, that is BERKSHIRE. those who are to be installed, went in solemn procession, with great pomp, to Windsor, attended by their friends and dependants, on horseback, clothed in the richest liveries ; but now it is cus tomary to go on foot from the castle to St. George's Chapel.

On the morning of installation, the knights appointed by the sovereign to instal the knights elect, meet in the great chamber belonging to the dean, in the full habit of the order, attended by the proper officers ; the knights elect appear in their under habits, holding their caps in their hands. Thus assembled, they form a procession to St. George's Chapel, where they are received by the sovereign on the throne : they are preceded by the poor knights, and garter king at arms, carrying the robes, great collar, and George, of each knight, on a crimson velvet cushion. Having presented to the sovereign the garters of each knight, (which are made of blue velvet, embroidered with the motto, Honi soit qui mat y pense*,) he gives them to two of the senior knights, who buckle them on the left leg of their new associates, whilst an admonition is read to them, to do nothing un worthy the high profession of knighthood.

After being completely dressed with the mantles, &c. they are conducted to the sovereign, who as they kneel before him, puts about the neck a dark blue ribbon, to which is hung the George: upon this * Shame he to him who thinks evil hereof. they kiss his hand, and the ceremony concludes with offerings and prayers. A sumptuous enter tainment is generally provided in St. George's Hall, attended with music and every other testimony of joy." " It must be a splendid sight," said Catha rine. " There is nothing but a coronation, in this country equal to it, replied Mrs. Middleton. " Your drowsy eyes," continued she, " remind me that it is time to retire: let the first who wakes to-morrow morning summon the rest, that we may enjoy the beauties of the early day in Windsor Park."

Chapter II

Eton College — Eton Montem — A visit to Dr. Herschel — Park Place — Reading — Oxford — Blenheim. The rising sun darted his rays through openings of the window shutters, and awoke Arthur: he started up and roused his brother : the whole party were presently equipped, and set out to take a walk in the Little Park, which surrounds the castle. The freshness of the morning, the various tints of the shady forest, and the melodious songs of the birds, animated them: one sought a glimpse of the bird that warbled above in some stately tree ; another searched the trunk for curious lichens ; while the scene recalled to Mrs. Middleton's recollection the following lines of Pope. ' Here waving groves a checker'd scene display, And part admit, and part exclude the day; There interspersed in lawns and op'ning glades, Thin trees arise, and shun each other's shades.

Here in full light the russet plains extend, There wrapt in clouds the bluish hills ascend ; E'en the wild heath displays her purple dyes, And midst the desert fruitful fields arise, That, crown'd with tufled trees and springing corn, Like verdant aisles, the sable waste adorn." Had not hunger compelled them to return to their quarters, they would have rambled for hours in this charming retreat. After breakfast the horses were ordered, that they might ride through part of the Great Park to the keeper's lodge : the road thither is adorned with a double plantation of fine trees on each side. They were obliged to be contented with a partial view of the park, because it is of great extent, and contains several towns and villages, besides many fine seats. The town of Windsor claimed their notice, for its antiquity and handsome town-house and parish church ; though inferior to the magnificent edifices that had so much delighted them.

The river Thames separates Berkshire from Buckinghamshire, and runs between Windsor and Eton : the counties are, however, united by a bridge, which our travellers passed in their way to the college. This ancient structure contains a hall, chapel, library, and school-house, besides apart ments for the masters and others. It being the hour of recreation, the courts were filled with scholars, who were diverting themselves with various sports. Arthur was ready to join them ; but Edwin drew back, as if fearful of giving offence. Louisa wanted to know why they wore such odd black gowns, without sleeves, over their clothes, and square hats covered with velvet. Mr. Franklin BUCKINGHAMSHIRE. told her, that scholars in universities and colleges generally wear this dress, or one very much like it, to indicate their connection with those institutions.

"Eton College," continued he, "is a royal foun dation, established by the unfortunate Henry the Sixth, for the education of seven boys, who, when qualified, are elected to King's College, Cambridge. The institution now supports seventy scholars, with officers and assistants. Besides which, there are seldom less than three hundred gentlemen, sons of the nobility and gentry, who board with the master, and receive their education at the seminary. The Etonians, or Eton scholars, have one peculiar custom ; the object of which is to collect money for the support of the captain of the school, in his studies at Cambridge. It is called the Montem, and they go in procession, once in three years, to Salt Hill, a few miles distant, where a large company is generally assembled to see them. The scholars who collect the money are called salt bearers, and wear rich fancy dresses, with satin bags, ornamented with gold and foils.

They surround all the carriages they meet, offering their bags for salt, as it is termed ; but money is the salt they collect. His majesty is a very liberal contributor on this occasion ; and many of the nobility and others educated at Eton, add so abun dantly to the subscription, that in some instances the amount has exceeded £800." c As they proceeded towards Slough, the young party viewed with regret the tall trees of Windsor Forest, and the turrets of the castle, gradually recede from their sight. Having arrived, "you will meet with the Great Western Railway within half a mile of Slough," said Mr. Franklin ; " even now I hear the sound of a train that has just stopped." "Oh mother," exclaimed Arthur, " why did we not come at such a fine quick rate ?" " Because my dear, it is not our plan to fly through the island, even by a steam carriage ; but rest satisfied, you will find abundant cause."

"Mr. Franklin," said she " you know the road to Stoke, we shall forget railroads, amidst the scenes where Gray often sojourned with his mother, and finished some of his finest poems." Various stanzas of the elegy came to the memory of each, and seated in the park, Mrs. Middleton repeated "The Long Story." The old manor-house is nearly all demolished, and a new building erected ; a small portion, however, has been left in honour of the poet, who has made it the scene of this poem. A monument at Stoke, and another in the park have been erected to the memory of the bard. On returning to Slough, Mr. Franklin pointed out the residence of the celebrated Herschel. " My father," said he, "was acquainted with him ; I well remember his account of a visit that he made to the astronomer." BUCKINGHAMSHIRE. 15 " ' The day passed,' said he, ' in the interchange of the usual civilities, mixed with improving con versation on the wonderful construction of the heavens, the immense distance of the fixed stars, and other particulars.

About ten o'clock at night, we were ushered into a room decorated with maps, astronomical instruments, spheres, celestial globes, and a harpsi chord. Here we found Miss Herschel, seated at a table. She had a large book open before her, a pen in her hand, and her eyes fixed alternately on the hands of a pendulum clock, and the index of another instrument placed beside her. She informed us that the doctor had retired to his observatory, and that she was marking down the result of his observations, communicated to her by strings from his telescopes, giving certain signals agreed upon between themselves. The spectacle of a brother and sister, thus affectionately uniting their talents in the pursuit of an abstruse science, was truly delightful, and afforded a striking opportunity of the advantages of union and domestic attachment. ' From this apartment we were conducted to the observatory, which is erected on a plain, having an extensive view of the horizon.

The telescopes were ingeniously fixed, so that a servant placed in a chamber beneath them, by means of machinery, turns the telescope and the observer together in a circle, with a gradual motion, corresponding to that of the earth. Two of the telescopes were of uncommon size : the largest is forty feet long, and the other twenty. They are mounted on large standards, rising above the house, and furnished with vast mirrors, which reflect the stars noticed by the philosopher. A clear, tranquil night, greatly heightened our enjoyment, and enabled us to behold many wonders in the starry firmament, of which before we had no conception. Amongst others, we saw, with admiration, the light of a star many hundreds of miflions of miles distant from our earth, cast so strongly, by means of the mirror, on a piece of paper inscribed with very small writing, that we could easily discern and count the letters.' "My father saw the telescope with which Herschel discovered the Georgium Sidus, in 1781.

His sister Caroline, was living at Hanover some time ago, at the advanced age of eighty." They now proceeded to Maidenhead ; from the bridge there is a delightful prospect over a hill, extending to the right bank of the Thames. On the top of it stands a beautiful seat called Taplow ; and near it the ruins of another, some time ago consumed by fire, named Clifden, formerly inhab ited by the prince of Wales, father of king George the Third. The country through which they passed to Henley, was pleasantly varied with hill OXFORDSHIRE. and dale. Mrs. Middleton directed the children's attention to a beautiful villa, in the grounds of which were the remains of a curious Druidical temple, brought from the island of Jersey. They passed the night at Henley, and in the morning pursued the route to Oxford.

On the road Mr. Franklin remarked, that they had only seen the eastern side of Berkshire, which is chiefly occupied by Windsor Forest, and has much uncultivated ground. " A range of chalk hills," continued he, " runs across to the westward, and bounds the noted Vale of White Horse, so named from the gigantic figure of a horse, rudely sketched on the naked side of a chalk-hill. A battle was fought near this spot between the Danes and king Ethelred. Some persons believe that the figure of the white horse was cut in memory of the vietory gained by the Saxons. This vale, and the cultivated parts of the county, are fertile, and yield plenty of excellent grain ; particularly barley, which is malted at Reading and other places, and is sent to London." " Pray what rivers water this country?" enquired Edwin.

" The Thames," replied Mr. Franklin, " is one of its principal streams, and of great use in con veying malt, its staple commodity, to the metropolis. The Kennet is celebrated for its eels, and is also navigable. The Lamborn and the Lodc den, are smaller streams, that flow into the river Thames. In the vicinity of the former river, is a curious Danish monument, or Barrow, called Wayland's Cave. " The chief town is Reading, which is large and populous. It gave birth to archbishop Laud, who suffered martyrdom in the troublesome times of Charles the First. Newbury is another considerable town, where the clothing manufactory once flourished, but is now greatly declined. Alfred the Great, our country's boast, was born at Wantage, a small town in this county ; and Pope, the celebrated poet, drew his first breath within the boundaries of Windsor Forest.

We are now in sight of Shotover Hill, which affords the mineral, English ochre, and the turrets and spires of Oxford appear before us." This put an end to the conversation. This fine city is situated in the midst of verdant meadows, on a gently rising ground, at the union of the Cherwell and the Thames, and was in ancient times surrounded with walls; the origin of the name is unknown, but is probably derived from a ford or passage here, across the river for oxen. The grandeur of the principal street, through which they entered the city, struck them all with admiration. It is extremely wide and long, and adorned on each side with handsome houses and noble colleges, OXFORDSHIRE. 19 intermixed with the foliage of tall trees belonging to the public walks and gardens. Nor did the first impression raise a false expectation : several days were agreeably employed in visiting the public structures of this celebrated university.

To describe minutely all they saw would be tedious j there are twenty colleges, and five halls, besides churches, libraries, and other edifices. Many of the colleges are large and magnificent, and richly endowed by the founders, for the generous purpose of promoting and diffusing knowledge. Alfred is supposed to have been one of its earliest patrons ; but some say that, as it had greatly declined from its ancient state, he is only to be considered as the restorer of its former splendour. The architecture (d) of the colleges shows that they were built in different ages, some of them being antique, and others modern. That of Christchurch was founded by Cardinal Wolsey. In the centre is a noble Gothic entrance. The gate is crowned with a beautiful tower, containing ten musical bells, and a great bell called Tom, which weighs nearly seventeen thousand pounds.

The sound of this mighty bell, at nine in the evening, is the signal for every student in the university to repair to his own college. Christchurch consists of four large squares. The hall is remarkable for its size ; the church is a venerable structure, and the roof of its choir is admired as a beautiful piece of stone-work. Oxford cathedral is the Chapel of Christchurch College ; it is frequently overlooked by those who visit the place, attention being mostly given to the colleges. Queen's College, so called from Philippa, queen of Edward the Third, whose memory will ever be dear to the humane, for saving the self devoted citizens of Calais, (e) has been rebuilt. In the centre of the front is a superb cupola or dome, under which is a statue of queen Caroline, consort of George the First.

It stands in an oblong square, divided into two courts : the first is nearly surrounded by a beautiful cloister. After passing from college to college, till they were weary with looking at the colours of painted windows, and a profusion of fine pictures, statues, and other curiosities, it was a delightful refreshment to Mrs. Middleton and her family, in going through the centre of Magdalen college, to find themselves in the midst of a green paddock, formed into many agreeable walks and lawns, and enlivened by a herd of deer. Their fatigue was not sufficient to deter them from proceeding, after a little rest, to the library founded by Dr. Ratcliffe, who left forty thousand pounds for building, repairing, and fur nishing it with books. It is a perfect rotunda, of prodigious dimensions, surrounded by a grand gallery and balustrade, supported by very beautiful pillars.

The whole is adorned and elegantly finished with festoons of fruits and flowers, and a OXFORDSHIRE. 21 variety of other rich carvings. The children from an apprehension of danger, could hardly be per suaded to ascend the stone staircase, which reaches to the top of the dome, and is constructed geo metrically, appearing to have no other support than one stair lying on another. When they had reached the last step, they were dizzy with looking down, it being formed spirally, like a corkscrew. The view from the dome commands the principal churches, colleges, and public buildings in Oxford. A pair of Roman candelebra, or, as we should call them, stands for lights, found at Tivoli, in the ruins of Adrian's villa, are preserved here : they are of alabaster, and represent storks in the atti tude of stretching out their long necks to the utmost extent, reaching much above the height of the tallest man.

On their beaks rest flat pieces of marble, intended to support lamps. "What a noble idea of Roman magnifience do these antique rarities give us," said Mrs. Middleton, " we may suppose the rest of their domestic furniture ac corded with these specimens." Desiring to vary the objects of their amusement and research, they proceeded to the botanic garden. The first pro fessor of botany at Oxford, was Dillenius, who came to England with Sherard, who founded the professorship. The young botanists easily recognized this lover of the science in the name given in honour of him to the little stillate plant, Sherardia, often found in corn fields, and on dry soils. The next object of their attention was the Theatre, a magnificent structure, erected for celebrating the public acts of the University ; such as the annual commemoration of its benefactors, and other solem nites.