With Rhodes in Mashonaland ... Translated from the original Dutch by J. H. Hofmeyr de Waal

Front matter

WITH MODES IN MASHONALAND. [By permission of Messrs. Elliott & Fry. The Right Hon. Cecil J. Rhodes' WITH EHODES IN MASHONALAND. BY D. C. DE WAAL, M.L.A. TRANSLATED FROM THE ORIGINAL DUTCH BV JAN H. HOFMEYR DE WAAL. IN TWO PARTS. J. C. JUTA & CO., CAPE TOWN. | PORT ELIZABETH. JOHANNESBURG. AND 36, BASINGHALL STREET, LONDON, E.C. 1896. Entered at Stationers' Ball.] W "Si(s reserved. LONDON: FEINTED BY WILLIAM CLOWES AND SONS, Limited, iT^fTft-n-n CT-ngTT t* TTT> pKARIXC, CROSS. 1 T? r> t 11 t Ls*

Preface

. The contents of this book appeared a few years ago as a series of articles in the Zuid Afrikaansehe Tijdschrift, a Dutch monthly magazine published in Cape Town. As Charterland or Khodesia (as it has recently been named) was then, so to speak, a new born babe to which the political eye of South Africa was turning with keen interest, the description of our travels was eagerly and appreciatively read. The reader will find the account to consist of facts written in plain words. I have neither indulged in florid language, nor do I make any claim to correct literary style. When I penned the contents of this volume, I did not in the least contemplate their being printed in English. Shortly after their publication in their original form, I was asked by numbers of my English friends to have them translated and published in book form.

To this request I have at last yielded, and I trust the book will please them and all others who care to know something about the nature and history of Mashonaland — the future Eldorado.

PREFACE.

. The second part of the book, which contains an account of our second trip to the interior, will, I believe, be generally accepted as the more interesting of the two, so I hope the reader will not lay aside and criticise the book until he has perused the whole of it. If worthy of being read, the following pages should be of interest not only to South Africans, but to the English public generally, as Rhodesia is certain in the near future to become one of the foremost de pendencies of Great Britain. In conclusion I may point out that Mr. Rhodes, Sir H. B. Loch, Mr. Sivewright, Captain Bower, and Dr. Jameson, as mentioned in this book, are now respectively the Right Hon. Cecil J. Rhodes, Lord Loch, Sir James SiveAvright, Sir Graham Bower, and Dr. Jameson, C.B. David C. de Waal. Cape Town, December, 1895. CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Page

We set out — My travelling companions — Met by Mankoraan — The chiefs complaints — Sir Henry's presents are rejected — Vrijburg — We witness a Kafir wedding at Mafeking — A visit to Montsioa ..... 1

Chapter II

Having parted from the Governor and his company, we start — Our waggons and their attendants — We spend our first night with an old hunter, and he and his household enlighten us as to Lobengula and his country — " Nelmapius " is best left alone — Willow Park ... 12

Chapter III

Buispoort — Travellers' tales not all gospel — We outspan at a German missionary's — More harrowing details about the chief of the Matabele — A literal dance of death — We have our first misadventure — Kafir beer better than Nelmapius .... ... X CONTENTS. PAGE 24 35 42

Chapter IV

The banks of the Limpopo — Mr. Rhodes a good shot — Mr. Venter fails to imitate a lion — An unsuccessful wild duck hunt — Arrive at Palla's Camp, and again meet the Governor ........

Chapter V

Hunting in clay — A visit to a Transvaal shopkeeper, and a look at a boa constrictor — How Grobbelaar met his death — Major Sapte's compass not so useful as horses' hoofs — I receive very sad news from home — Pietje upsets Mr. Venter 29

Chapter VI

We arrive at Sofala — Journeying through a kloof — Too large a company has its drawbacks — -Mr. Rhodes shows the strength of his resolution, and gets drenched — The meeting with Khama — The chiefs differences with the armers — Khama's wife — Reflections on the country

Chapter VII

Leave Tjopong — We outspan, and I go a-fishing — A man saved from drowning — A talk with Sir Henry Loch

Chapter VIII

An adventure with a lion — The weather not what we expected — Mr. Rhodes reminds me of my grandfather — Sunday in the camp — Sir Henry goes out hunting, and Mr. Venter and I spend the morning tree measuring — We lose our way, and meet some game which we fail to secure— The Premier the best sportsman ... CONTENTS. XI PAGE 69 7 si *

Chapter IX

" The place of death " — Macloutsi — Though man proposes, God disposes — A review of the British Bechuana police — Telegraph facilities — A separation which Sir Henry Loch disapproves — Mr. Rhodes wishes to see Mashonaland, and we go forward ...... 52

Chapter X

A°dark night and a recalcitrant driver — We find we have an invalid in the company — We go on and pass through a country deserted through fear of Lobengula — A letter of warning from the Governor ..... 58

Chapter XI

We arrive at the Tuli River — Other tourists there besides ourselves — Our ideas considered impracticable — Mr. Rhodes gives up his project with regret — The story of a brave lion-hunter ....... 62

Chapter XII

A bad night — Solomon fears he is going to die — Traces of hyænas and snakes — We come to an African Paradise — Mr. Venter and I go in search of milk, and are nearly torn to pieces — We cross the Crocodile, and have an interview with Mr. Greeff — A proposed big hunt .

Chapter XIII

We divide our forces — The prospect of a delicious supper — I meet with some curious wild animals — An interview with crocodiles— The return of our hunters — An adventure with a tiger — Mr. Greeff tells an exciting story. CONTENTS. PAGE 83 92 106

Chapter XIV

Mr. van Aarde's farm — Too tired to run after koodoos — A difference about our journey, and Mr. Lange has to give way — Crematart River and the trees there .

Chapter XV

Fascinating scenery — The River Nile, so called — We make another effort to buy milk — The Kafir women as bad as the dogs — A delusive hill — The Premier is dissatisfied, but the oxen are not — A born hunter and his family — Salt-waggons from Zoutpansbergen .... 87

Chapter XVI

A carriage and four horses — Mr. Barend Vorster — Mr. Adendorff and his concession — A tiresome invitation which has to be accepted — We reach Pietersburg, and read sad tidings in the newspapers — We do not enjoy our quarters, and decide to leave — Expensive hospitality — We hear more than we desire of the concession

Chapter XVII

The concession again — A sumptuous lunch — Makapaan's Poort — The cave of the Kafirs — A fearful death — We reach Potgieter's Rust — Kafirs on the way to the gold fields — The advantages of Kafir labour . . . 101

Chapter XVIII

No hurry to reach Pretoria — An officer meets us with an invitation — We enter in procession, and sleep, after two months' travelling, under a roof — Nelmapius gives me a headache in Pretoria — The gold mines of Johannesburg — I am treated discourteously by a post-office clerk at Kimberley — Home at Capetown once more CONTENTS. XIII PAGE

Chapter I

Introduction — We leave Capetown for Port Elizabeth — The Premier shuns a public demonstration — The mosquito in Durban — On board ship — Beetles as company — Mr. Rhodes does not mind them, but I do, and crack my crown in consequence ...... 117

Chapter II

Still in the Norseman — We arrive at Delagoa Bay — The character of the Portuguese residents — Why Delagoa Bay is unhealthy — Back to our berths — Beetles preferable to dirt — The manœuvres of our pilot — An awkward predicament — At Inhambane — We hire Kafir boys, but the Governor disapproves — The Premier waxes wrathful and gains his point ....... 124

Chapter III

We depart from Inhambane — The pilot proves an unsuccessful acrobat — We reach Beira Bay — In trouble once more about our Kafirs — Captain Pipon to the rescue — The Governor outwitted ..... 134

Chapter IV

Our first sight of hippopotami — Native canoes — A lovely night — We row to the shore and have a water-buck hunt — Major Johnson the " man of the day " — We reach Naves Ferreira — Notes on the Portuguese inhabitants and the native Kafirs ...... CONTENTS. XIV PAGE 149 159

Chapter V

Unloading under difficulties — Pikenin astonishes us with an acrobatic feat — "Crocodile Nest" — Supper at Mapandas— A novel way of destroying rats — Off again and meet some game on the way — Outspan at Muda — Our night's rest disturbed by lions ......

Chapter VI

Vexatious trouble with the horses— Buffaloes — A natural zoological garden — A dash in a crocodile pool — Lions dangerously close — Rest at last — Mr. Rhodes shoots a zebra — A wild rush — The Premier chased by a "lion ".

Chapter VII

Sarmento — The apes watch us bathing — We have to abandon one of our carts — Packing and unpacking — Difficulties grow and I am attacked with despondency — We resolve to give up our second cart also — A lion kills one of our horses — Beautiful palms, but bad water . . . 170

Chapter VIII

A dreary search for water — Anxious hours in the dark — A happy meeting — The Major challenges me to a rash plunge — We meet Bowden, who appears ill — I lose my dearly-loved pony ....... 179

Chapter IX

Annoyance at the hands of our boys — We pass a Portuguese Lema ; he travels in state — How the natives salute one another — Traces of the tsetse -fly — No pleasure in a bamboo forest — I lose some of my baggage — Chimoyo at last CONTENTS. XV PAGE 192

Chapter X

Bartering with Kafirs — Our followers begin to feel fatigued — I stick to my portmanteau in spite of Mr. Rhodes' generous offers — Major Johnson is charged by a wild ox — How a Kafir smokes — A lovely halting-spot

Chapter XI

An historical show — The scene of a battle — Massi-Kessi — On the track of the ancient gold-seekers — We plan to sleep outside the tent, but are discovered by our Premier — Some thrilling lion stories ..... 199

Chapter XII

We cross the Umtali Mountains — A good night's rest — Our Kafir boys leave us, but Pikenin and Matokwa choose to stick by their present masters — An accident to Pikenin — I am thrown into a pool — Our boys frighten the Kafir Avomen — A Kafir burial-place . . . 208

Chapter XIII

Beautiful farm sites — Eccentricities of Kafir hair-dressing — We take shelter from the storm — Left without food — Major Johnson loses his bet ..... 215

Chapter XIV

Marandella's kraal — A touch of fever — More thunderstorms — We enter Salisbury, and I inspect the stores awaiting me there — Misfortunes and losses — Captain Tyson more generous than is needful — My tent-mate . . . CONTENTS. PAGE 227 246

Chapter XV

Salisbury — A visit to the auction sales — The Premier has dissatisfied deputations to deal with — Many officers but no privates — £35 worth of champagne at a sitting — Unpleasant visitors — King Solomon's mines

Chapter XVI

Lord Randolph Churchill — An ancient gold-seeker — Political discussions — I grow warm, and give the English ex- Chancellor my views without fear or favour — The Blue Rock Reef — Dr. Jameson and I inspect an old mine — Lord Randolph shows he can cook .... 234

Chapter XVII

The Rothschild Mines — Output of gold — How Lobengula treated his advisers — Traces of the Phœnicians — Lemon-trees — Crossing the Hunjani River — Hunting the Setsiebies bucks — I prefer to shoot nothing to being shot — We have to return empty-handed ..... 240

Chapter XVIII

Hunting again — The Premier Nimrod this time — Adventure with a crocodile — Mr. Scott's narrative — Our oxen missing, and we are all out of humour — A tropical storm

Chapter XIX

The Umfuli River — Ant-heaps a thousand years old — The climate of Mashonaland — The Makalaka Kafirs — A meeting in the wilds with friends — Young colonists — Captain Tyson's stores are replenished — We receive a visit from Mr. Selous and travel on the road he constructed — More lion stories ..... CONTEXTS. XVII 268 275

Chapter XX. L'age

Remarks ou Mashonaland — The natives' fear of the Matabele — A profitable exchange — The houses of the Mashonas — Their fondness for rats as food, and surprise that we do not share it — How the climate compares with other parts of South Africa ....... 'lo I

Chapter XXI

Formation of rocks at, Fort Victoria — Lord Randolph Churchill's opinion of the Mashonaland Gold Mines — Will not accompany us to the rains of Simbabe — I cannot understand such conduct in a news-correspondent — He invites the Premier and myself to be his travelling companions, but we refuse ..... 263

Chapter XXII

We start for Simbabe — A perilous ford— The great Simbabe temple — AVe find our arrival is expected, and don't altogether like our reception at first — Explanations make all clear — We climb the walls — An early cup of coffee .

Chapter XXIII

Inspecting Simbabe — Mr. ami Mrs. Bent's discoveries — Early history of Simbabe — Supposed to be built by Solomon — The connection of the Moors with Simbabe — Early gold fields — Sun worshippers there probably — The ancient prosperity of Simbabe to be surpassed in the future b CONTENTS. PAGE 289 310

CHAPTER XXI

\'. We return to our travels — The thriving condition of the Simbabe Kafirs — Their pretty children — The little ones suspicious of the meat-tins — One of our animals taken ill — A visit to Dickens' Gold Reef — Stamping the quartz — Dr. Jameson displays his horsemanship and comes to grief 2S4

Chapter XXV

A new team — Mr. Lange, Captain Tyson and I are teamsters — A mad rush down hill— A bathe in the Crocodile's pool — Providential Pass ; in the haunts of the gold-seekers — Long's Reef — Mr. Long can give reasons for his actions — L'ird Randolph much in error

Chapter XXVI

Again on the march — An accident to my portmanteau — 1 am sad in consequence — A hard alternative before Roeping and January — We interview Chibe to learn the truth about the Adendorff Concession — An uphill climb — Chihe does not confirm the Concession — We learn more details about Lobengula — My new boy . . . 2lJsi

Chapter XXVII

Captain l^'son's dip — How Mr. Vluggi lost his way — A grim game — A meeting with some disappointed diggers — The scene of young Hackwell's death — A hunt before breakfast, in which we see traces of much game, but shoot none — I shoot an alligator — Captain Tyson proposes a race — I accept the challenge and come off victorious . CONTENTS. XIX PAGE 339 345

Chapter XXVIII

Secluded huts — Evidence of a struggle between animals — A view of a huge crocodile — Captain Tyson deceived — He has a nasty fall — At the Boobi River — A needed bath — The snake hunts the cayman aud the boys hunt the snake — Van Riet's wonderful adventure . . . 321

Chapter XXIX

A koodoo shot — Mr. Rhodes' light waggon — I over-persuade my companions, and we all start together for Bechuanaland — Pikeniu leaves me — On the track of our previous journey — An invitation at Macloutsi in which I am not included 330

Chapter XXX

We leave Macloutsi — Meet Khama — At Palapye — The chief's grievances — I do not enjoy the role of John Gilpin, and reproach my companions — A little excusable exaggeration in my complaints — Captain Tysjn and Mr. Lange left behind — Matabele boys — Arrival at Notwani .

Chapter XXXI

Plenty of room in the coach — Lord Randolph and the mules — My anxiety not to disturb his lordship's rest — A rapid run to Mafeking — The troubles of fame — Mr. Rhodes makes a speech at Fourteen Streams — At Kimberley

PART I. CHAPTER

I. We set out — My travelling companions — Met by Mankoraan — The chiefs complaints — Sir Henry's presents are rejected — Vrijburg — We witness a Kafir wedding at Mafeking — A visit to Montsioa. On the 2nd of October, 1890, the Hon. C. J. Rhodes, M.L.A., Mr. M. M. Venter, M.L.A., and myself— in company Avith the Governor of the Cape Colony, Sir Henry Loch, and his party — left Kimberley by special train for the north at half-past eight in the morning, and arrived at Taungs, Mankoraan's chief toAvn, at one. There we pitched a large tent and had our lunch under it. Shortly afterAvards, Mankoraan and eighteen of his indunas, with a retinue of a thousand men on horseback, made their appearance at our camp. They came to welcome the Governor, and to confer Avith him on certain matters regarding their land.

The scene of u their approach Avas an imposing one, and the subsequent interview very interesting. Mankoraan, who, upon the invitation of the High Commissioner, was the first to speak, started at once complaining in bitter terms that sufficient land had not been left to him and his people, and said that, if better provision were not made for them, they Avould starve, etc., etc. The Governor then pointed out to him that, according to the last census returns, not only had his property as Avell as the number of his people during recent years vastly increased, but his kingdom had never before been in so prosperous a condition, and that, had the English Queen not taken him and his tribe under her protection, they would very probably by that time have been expelled from the land by the stronger negro tribes, as had been the case with MassouAA'.

Mankoraan shook his head. " No," grumbled he, " the Queen has not protected us, but has deprived us of our land and handed much of it over to the Transvaal." " But," asked Sir Henry, " what is it that you want ? Do you want us to retake the land already granted to the Transvaal, and so pluuge into war with that country ? " " Well, I can't help it if that follows," he replied, " but I must have more land." "If you had fallen under the protection of the Transvaal, would you have been better off than you are ? " the Governor asked. " Certainly," was the answer ; " I would have been treated far better." The Governor now was silent for a while. Indi<*- MANKORAAN IS STUBBORN. nation at the ingratitude of the negro chief was to be read upon his countenance. At length he replied, " I shall mention your complaints to Sir Sidney Shippard " (the Adminis trator of Bechuanaland), " and see what he can do for you."

He then turned to the counsellors of the black ruler and told them that if they had anything to ask or state he Avould lend a willing ear. The brother of Mankoraan thereupon took up the word and grumbled like the latter — " too little ground ! too little grass ! " This Avas indeed the gist also of all the succeeding speeches. The royal deputation having exhausted their com plaints, the High Commissioner, to prevent if possible the existence of any ill-feeling, offered to make Man koraan a small present — giving him his choice of either a horse, a saddle and bridle, a Avatch and chain, a telescope or a rifle. " No, thanks," said Mankoraan, shaking his head ; " I shall take nothing for nothing. If I Avant anything I'll pay for it, for if I accept your present you will only deprive me of more land."

"I think Mankoraan has mistaken me," said Sir Henry to the interpreter, so as to clear aAvay any possible misunderstanding. " I mean to give him a present, not to change with him." " Oh, I understood the Governor Avell enough," replied the chief, "but I repeat I will have nothing from him for nothing." At this the High Commissioner changed colour. " Tell the chief," he said, " that Her Majesty's B WITE REODES IN MASEONALAND. High Commissioner gives, but does not take, and tell him that because of his uncourteous reply he shall get nothing — and noAV you may all go," concluded His Excellency. His black majesty thereupon rose Avith his odoriferous advisers, shook Sir Henry's hand and those of some others, and left the tent. They mounted their horses, and off they went, horses and riders, in a cloud of dust.

Upon the departure of those honourable visitors and their followers, Ave had to decide between two things — to sprinkle the tent with eau-de-Cologne in order to remove the odour the Kafirs had left behind, or to haul doAvn the tent altogether and proceed on our journey. "We chose the latter course. Naturally, our topic for the next hour or so was the attitude of Mankoraan. Our Premier was of opinion that the sooner the people of Mankoraan be com pelled to work for the farmers instead of being alloAved to cluster together in thousands and do nothing, the sooner they would learn to their advantage that it was the duty of every man, be he black or white, to earn his bread by toil — and shepherds and labourers Avere just then Avhat farmers Avere most in need of. I, too, felt — and Mr. Venter shared the feeling with me — that there existed far too much ungratefulness and im politeness in Mankoraan . and his men towards their benefactors.

They should be forced to do labour under the farmers. The sooner Bechuanaland is annexed to the Cape the better, not only for those lazy lords per sonally, and the country in which they live, but for the general civilisation and prosperity of the land. The veld and cattle there appeared in excellent CEARACTER OF TEE VELD. 5 condition, and instead of finding Bechuanaland — as I had always previously had an idea it was — a land of limestone, baboons and vultures, I found it a grand country for cattle and sheep-farming, as well as, to some extent, for agriculture. We were now travelling through narroAv passages, past hills, across valleys, and over plains. Mr. Venter repeatedly expressed his amazement at the wonderful adaptability of the veld for cattle, and he is a man whose judgment should carry especial Aveight, for he is a great authority on stock-farming, being himself a stock-farmer Avho owns many thousands of acres of land in the Colesberg and Philipstown districts.

But one did not need to be an expert in grass to discover the excellent quality of the veld we were now speeding over : anyone who was not blind and who kneAv any thing at all about veld could see it for himself. Al most all the Avay from Kimberley to Vrij burg the land is excellently suited for cattle and sheep. At half-past four, and within about a mile and a half from Vrij burg, we had to leave the train, as the railway had not yet been completed to the village. All was life here. Dozens of vehicles stood ready to convey to the village the party that had just arrived. Pretty spring Avaggons, waggonettes, dogcarts, landaus and spiders, all drawn by fine strong horses, were to be seen ; and amongst the number who came to bid us AA'elcome many a gentleman in tile, gloves and eye glass, and in every respect dressed in the latest fashions, was to be observed.

" Goodness me ! " I thought, " how do we with our grey broad-brimmed felt hats look in contrast Avith them ! '' WITE REODES IN MASEON ALAND. We drove off to the little town, and there numbers of flags were waving in honour of the visiting party. Having listened to the addresses read to the Governor — a lot of ceremonial nonsense — each hurried to his boarding-house to take, what the dusty way had caused him sorely to need — a good bath. Mr. Venter and myself put up at Advocate Allen Fraser's,* who, together with his gracious wife, treated us exceedingly well. At evening Ave took a stroll through the village and Avere surprised at seeing such fine strong buildings, such big hotels and commercial houses, and so neat a townhouse. The following morning we went to see the prison, a building ornamental to the place and certainly one of the finest of its kind in South Africa.

To the principal springs of Vrijburg we also paid a visit, and they too excited our admiration. At a small expense the toAvn might be very abundantly provided with Avater. The soil there is fertile : almost anything Avould grow and thrive in it. Indeed, I think that Vrijburg is bound in the near future to become an important city Avhence hundreds of tons of wool will yearly be ex ported. We met several farmers there who had come from various districts to see the Governor, and to express their desire of having Bechuanaland annexed to the Cape Colony. They told us that they found Bechuanaland one of the finest countries for cattle and sheep they had seen. Some of them besought us to visit their farms in order to ascertain for ourselves the nature of the land. A Mr. Steijn assured us that, in spite of a drought of eight months' duration Avhich his * Adv.

Fraser died last year (1895). — Translator. VISIT TO VRIJBURG. part of the country had just been undergoing, he Avas plentifully supplied Avith milk and butter, and his cattle were as fat as they could be. Besides, his last crop had yielded him thousands of oatsheaves, and he was expecting between 400 and 500 bags of corn ; this two other farmers confirmed. And, I must say, not a single farmer out of the dozens with whom I came in contact described Bechuanaland otherwise than most favourably as a country for cattle, sheep and cultivation. Thus Mr. Venter's opinion regarding the pro ductive character of the land Avas amply affirmed. The farmers expressed their desire to establish a branch of the Africander Bond in Bechuanaland, hut they somewhat feared doing so owing to the country being a Crown Colony.

With the aid of Advocate Fraser, however, and the assent of Sir Sidney Shippard, who will certainly have no objection to it, I am sure that ere long British Bechuanaland will also have a branch of the Bond ; this would be the cause of greater political life amongst the farmers, and we would then hear more of them and their country than we do now. Before leaving Vrijburg we Avere entertained at a dinner at Avhich some interesting speeches were delivered. The speech of our Governor was appre ciated much, but that of our Premier more, for his Avas a political one. Numerous other speeches followed, some very selfish and some strongly Jingoistic — some pleaded for their pockets and some for the continuance of Bechuanaland* as a CroAvn Colony rather than its * Bechuanaland was annexed to the Cape Colony during the last session (1895) of the Cape Parliament. — Translator.

WITH REODES IN MASHONALAND. being annexed to the Cape, where there were so many Bondsmen who had so much to say! The speeches that pleased us most were those delivered in true South African spirit by Advocate Fraser and Attorney Wessels, whose sensible arguments carried no small amount of force with them, and at the same time revealed the men we were some day to find the repre sentatives of Bechuanaland in the Cape Parliament. On leaving Vrijburg Ave entered upon another fine, fruitful tract of country, and on our way we met several farmers, amongst Avhom was a Mr. Pood, formerly of the Colesberg district, who, together with his wife and a couple of children, was living in the open veld in a waggon and tent. We asked him what he thought of the veld. " Oh," said he, " the veld is as good as at Colesberg, and here I have an unlimited extent of land at my disposal, whereas in the old colony my land had become too narrow for me.

As to my cattle and sheep, they are in a very good condition." " And have you sufficient water for your cattle ? " we next inquired. He assured us that he had more than he needed, and that Avater was to be got anywhere at a depth of six or eight feet. " The land is flat and even," he continued, " and rains are very copious from December till the end of March. Every farm is plentifully supplied with water; should there not be enough on the surface, dams might easily be laid out." Mr. Venter and myself then partook of coffee Avith the kind old gentleman and his Avife, and we left hini highly pleased. Afterwards, Ave passed through Mari- THE CHIEF MOSHETTE. 9 bogo, a large Kafir town, rich in soil and in cattle and sheep as Avell as in Avater. The following Sunday night, the 5th of October, we lodged at the Messrs. Worsey's hotel, on this side of the historical town of the chief, Moshette.