A journey from London to Persepolis; including wanderings in Daghestan, Georgia, Armenia ... With numerous coloured illustrations

Preface

. fPHE following pages have been arranged from notes originally written without any view to publication. The journey of which they are the narrative was undertaken by the author and a friend solely for purposes of pleasure and amusement, and it was not until it was suggested that a description of the route passed over by them might be useful to future travellers in such comparatively untrodden countries, that he ventured to lay them before the public. The chief object of his journey was to penetrate into the mountains of Daghestan, so long the scene of the unequal conflict between Schamyl and the Russian Power. His success in accomplishing his wishes is due to the kindness and hospitality which he everywhere met with from the Russian officers, who, far from throwing obstacles in his way, as he was told would be the case, facilitated his progress by every means in their power. Not possessing any scientific acquirements, he has confined himself to recording what he heard and saw, referring, in VI

PREFACE.

. those places where such allusions were necessary, to the discoveries made by, and the conclusions drawn from, the researches of the many eminent men who have laboured to unfold the long-hidden mysteries of the vast ruins of Meso potamia and Southern Persia. London, 1865. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

On board the Antwerp packet — Irish recruits for the Papal service — Changed aspect of Cologne — The German waiter — Homburg — Palace of the Prince-Bishop of Wiirtzburg — Stein wine — Church of St. Lawrence at Nuremberg — The Valhalla at Eatisbon — Torture chamber — Scenery of the Danube — Linz — Convent of Molk — Euins of Diirrenstein — Palace of Lachsenburg — Opera troupe for Odessa — Presburg — ■ Komorn — Peterwardein — Semlin and Belgrade pp. 3 — 18

Chapter II

Basiasch and Semendria — Reminiscence of the Roman invasion under Trajan — Widdin — Giurgevo and Rustchuk — -Spirited action during the Danubian campaign — Defences of Silistria — Railway to Kustendje — The Sulina mouth of the Danube — Odessa — La Petite Fontaine — Visit to the Princess Woronzoff — Boats of the Russian New Black Sea Company — Tatar emigration — Visit to Sebastopol — Colonel Gowan's operations — The surrounding country — An Irish deserter . . pp. 21 — 37

Chapter III

Bakchi Serai — Palace and tombs of the Khans — Jewish burial-ground — Chufut Kaleh — Head-quarters of the Karaite Jews — The Paraclodnaia — Alupka — The chateau of Prince Woronzoff — Swiss landlord at Yalta — Excursion to a Tatar village — The three illuminati — Kertch — Tumuli — Curious excavation — English skippers in quarantine — Chair of Mithridates — Russian fortifications — Engagement of an interpreter pp. 41 — 55

Chapter IV

Circassian emigration — Sujiik Kaleh — Sukiim Kaleh — Sale of Circassian women — Scenes in Mingrelia — Low and swampy coast — Poti — Captain Kutaieff — The Consul's house — A painful ride on Cossack saddles — Wild vines — Guriel peasants — Barclay and Perkins' London Stout — Maran — Costume of the peasantry — Introduction of Eussian laws and government — Condition of the people in Guriel and Mingrelia — Eunuchs — Faith and customs of the Skoptzi pp. 59 — 75 i CONTENTS.

Chapter V

Georgian beauty— Difficulties of the road— The capital of Immeritia— The German police-master— A Scoto-Mingrelian— A Trans-Caucasian watering-place—The river Kur — Road from Suram to Bordjoum— The ancient capital of Georgia— Sepulchre of the Kings— Tiflis— Prospects of Commercial revival — A polyglots population — German immigrants — Manufacture of silver ornaments — Persian quarter — Bridges over the Kur — Wine of native manufacture — The bazaars PP- 79 — 99

Chapter VI

Difficulty of obtaining reliable information as to the route — Georgian drag — Baron Nicolai and Colonel Tengoborski — Georgian postmasters — Towers of refuge — Postmaster of Dushet — Boundary line between Europe and Asia — Defile and fort of Dariel — Road over the Caucasus — Vladikavkas — Russian inns — The steppe — Tumuli — Fortified villages — Chain of detached forts — Cossacks of the line of the Kuban — Cossacks of the line of the Terek— locusts pp. 103—116

Chapter VII

Curious scene at a post in the Caucasus — Grosna^— Career of Count Yevdachimoff — Memorials of the brave — Forts Arsinoe and Videgne — Lesghian outlook — Schamyl's eldest son — Russian army in the Caucasus — Schamyl's capture — A social custom — Revolt of the Murid ■ — Basangour — Russian authority in the Caucasian provinces — The Tschnetchnians — Convoy of sick and disabled soldiers — Mountain Aouls —The Kibitka— View from fort Vorelno pp. 119—134

Chapter VIII

The fort of Preobajinsky — Its unhealthy position — Destruction of a Russian battalion by disease — Schamyl's wall — Naib Ali — A Lesghian house — Hospitality of the owner— Tombs — Entrance into the territory of the Avars — Origin of the people and their language — Remarkable mountain — Ibrahim Khan — Magnificent site of Khunsakh — Russian military songs — Songs in honour of Schamyl — Native music and dancing — Rebuilding of Khunsakh pp. 137 — 151

Chapter IX

Magnificent scenery — The Koisov— Encampment of Russian soldiers — Coal mines in the Caucasus— Siege of Gounib by the Russians— Fanaticism of two Murids— Capture of Schamyl — Memoir of the Lesghian chief death of Hamsad Bey, and wonderful escape of Schamyl — Schamyl's contests with the Avars — Takes the oath of allegiance to the emperor Defence and capture of Akhulgo— Expedition of Count Woronzoff— Schamyl exploits and capture pp 155 jjq CONTENTS. IX

Chapter X

Schamyl's prisons for Russian captives — Schemes to be carried out by the Russians at Gounib — Hospitality of Russian officers— Soldiers and natives at work — A Russian commandant with a large family — Kutishi — A night with Prince Chavchavadzey — Wars between the mountain tribes — Watch towers — First sight of the Caspian — Reception by Reschid Khan at Gengutai — A drunken landlord — The fortifications and garrison of Shura — Captain Rugetsky — Mohammedan officers in the Russian army pp. 173 — 187

Chapter XI

Advantage of travelling with a Padaroshna with two seals — Derbend — Reminiscences of Alexandre Dumas' visit to Derbend — An obliging police-master — General Melikoff's reminiscences of the siege of Kars — Ride to Basari — A Jewish village — Use of a Russian doctor in an attack of fever — The Atesh Dja, or fire temple — Manufacture of naphtha — Fire-worshippers from India — Their religious doctrines and ceremonies pp. 191—209

Chapter XII

Drive over the spur of the Caucasus to Shamaehi — The silk trade — Cultivation and irrigation of the land — Bakery for the army — Ganja — School in a mosque — Subterranean post-station — A Georgian nobleman — Flood and thunderstorm — Commercial prospects of Tiflis — Contemplated railway — Annoyances and delays in travelling — High table-land of Asia Minor — Russian colonists and their privileges — Gumri — Adjuncts in office pp. 213—230

Chapter XIII

Entrance into Turkish territory — A post of Bashi-Bazouks — Curious stones — Escort through the streets of Kars — A native sportsman — Interview with the Pasha — Reminiscence of General Williams — Greek heroes— The palace of the pashas — Hopes of Armenia under the protection of Russia — Mount Alaghoz — Laborious mode of agriculture — Ruins of Ani — Convent of Khoshavank — Armenian population of Talyn — Patriarchal system of the Armenians — Condition of women in Armenian pp. 233—250

Chapter XIV

Plain of Erivan— Ararat — Peaks of Alaghoz — The Mirage — Sirdarabad — Demetri and the game — Doubtful courage of our Armenian escort — Tseba — Monastery of Etchmiadzin — Introduction to the Patriarch and Bishop — Legends, ornaments, and relics — Celebrated white wine — Church of St. Repsima and St. Caiana— Tolerant principles of the Armenians — Constitution of the Armenian Church— Auricular confession — Mechitariats PP- 253— 2 G9 X CONTENTS.

Chapter XV

Erivan — Theatricals and ball at the Governor's— Gardens of Sirdar Hussein —Palace of the Persian Sirdars— Eating-shop — Splendid mosque — The schoolmaster and his pupils — Service over the dead — General Kolubakine — A village tragedy — Ikdyr — Yezeedis and Kurds — Mr. Thursby's ascent of Ararat — Superstitious ideas regarding the sacred mountain — The ice-serpent — Tent of a Kurdish chief — Bayezid — An Italian exile — Mode of warming the houses pp. 273 — 291

Chapter XVI

Palace of the Pashas of Bayezid — Horse-hire in Turkey — Yezeedis of Kara- Kend — A desolate scene — Belief in Lord Stratford de Redcliffe's interest with the Sultan — Last sight of Ararat — Disturbed state of the country— Position of Frankish travellers among the Kurds — Maintenance of Turkish authority over the Kurds — The Shemseddin — Lake of Artshag and Lake Van — Ancient fortification — City of Van — Tablet in the rock pp. 295—312

Chapter XVII

Admission to the fortress refused — Cuneiform inscriptions — Vicissitudes of the City of Van — Lake Van — The inscription of Xerxes — Legends — Destruction of statuary — Great rock of Van — Canal attributed to Semiramis — Adramit — Condition of Armenian Christians — Corn pits — Vastan — Aghavank — Armenian church dignitaries — Primitive hospitality — Ignorance of Armenian ecclesiastics — The monastery of Akthamar — Collection of manuscripts and books . . . pp. 315 — 333

Chapter XVIII

Village of Narkjugh — Nose-rings — Remarkable race of cats — Kelesh Aga — Butter-making — Ruins of caravanserais — Route of Xenophon and the Ten Thousand — Bitlis — English and Turkish alliance — Castle of the Beys of Bitlis — Curious tradition — American missionaries and the Armenian clergy — Remains of an ancient road — Demetri's prescription for headache — Ornaments worn by the women of Otais or Kolnik — Eedwan — Poverty of the inhabitants pp. 337 — 355

Chapter XIX

Al fresco bath — The hareem of the Kiayah of Bismil — Ravages of ophthalmia — Diarbekir — Ancient causeway — Khodja Bedoul's hospitality — A joint inheritance — Threatened outbreak at Diarbekir prevented — Curious disease — Mr. Walker and the American mission — The Damascus massacres — Raphael's idea of the English in India — Red-legged partridges — Merdin — An Italian doctor — The plain of Mesopotamia — Ancient catacombs — The ruina of Dara . . . pp. 359 — CONTENTS. XI

Chapter XX

Train of the Pasha of Bassora — Black mail — Ruins of Nisibin — Kurdish dances and songs — Poverty-stricken villages — The ruins of Djezireh — Interview with a Syrian archbishop — The Caimacam of Djezireh — Passage of the Tigris — Arrival at Zachu — Night in the hovel of a Kurd — Journey to Mosul — The walls of Nineveh — Residence of Mr. Rassam, British vice-consul — Mr. Layard's excavations at Kouyunjik — The patriarch of the Roman Catholic Chaldees pp. 381 — -101

Chapter XXI

Visit to Scheikh Adi — The Yezeedis, and their temporal and spiritual chief — Assyrian antiquities — Halt in the village of Ain Sefni — Interview with the Bey — Faith, doctrine, and mysteries of the Yezeedis — Scheikh Adi — The principles of creation and destruction — Manners and customs of the Yezeedis — Reception by Hussein Bey — Interview with Scheikhs and Elders — Travelling on a kelek — Our party down the river Tigris — Hamman Ali — Ruins of Nimrud pp. 405— 423

Chapter XXII

The greater Zab — Ruins of Kaleh Sherghat — A howling wilderness — Arabs of the desert — An old Arab on a journey — The town of Tekrit — Imaum Dur — The great canal of Nahrwan — Ruins of Iski, or old Baghdad — Samara — Ruins of Kadesia — Interment of Persians at Kerbelah — Approach to Baghdad — English congregation at Baghdad — Interview with the Pasha ■ — The bazaars — Scenes in the streets — Commercial aspect of Baghdad — Its past splendour and present decline pp. 427 — 445

Chapter XXIII

The Residency — Winter and summer at Baghdad — The ancient and modern towns — Cemeteries — Ruins of Akarkoof — Great mosque of Kathimain — Canals — The Nahr Sarsar and Nahr Malka — Arrival at Kerbelah — Pilgrims to the shrine of Hosein — View of the mosque — Fees for interment near the prophet — Tax on corpses — Palm groves — Touarij — Conversion of a cultivated land into a marsh — Arrival at Kifil — Meshed Ali — interview with the Mudir pp. 449 — 468

Chapter XXIV

The Birs Nimrud — Hilleh — Visit to the Pasha — Al Hymer — Mujelibe, or Babel — Kasr — The ruins of Babylon — Bowls found in the mound of Amram — Caravan of Persian pilgrims — Eastern justice — Sail down the Tigris in the " Comet" — Ruins of Seleucia and Ctesiphon — Gibbon's account of the sack of the palace — Tomb of Mohammed's barber — Turkish oppression — Arab encampment — Canals — Tomb ofthe Prophet Ezra — Junction of the Tigris and Euphrates .... pp. 471 — CONTENTS.

Chapter XXV

Margele— Mail across the Desert— Bassora— A game of cricket in the desert — Boar-hunting — Bushire— Persian governors — Journey into the interior of Persia— Passes of Kutel Mallu and Kuteli Kumerij— Ruins of the city of Shapur— Timour Mirza's memorial tablet— The triumph of Persian engineering — Caravanserai of Miankutil — Death of the Prussian Minister to Teheran — The Nuwaub Mehmet Hassan Khadour — The town of Schiraz— Lawless population — Manufactures . pp. 493— 512

Chapter XXVI

Palace of Takht i Kajar— Grave of M. Minutoli— The kiosk of the Baghi Noo — A Persian painting — A specimen of Eastern royalty — Tomb of the poet Saadi— Grave of Hafiz the poet— Visit of the Shahzadeh's secretary — The Prince Governor of Schiraz — Military display — Persian princes — National credulity and deceit — Defile of the Tengeh Allah Akbah — Village of Khauna — Stream of Bendamir — Appearance of the plain PP- 515—530

Chapter XXVII

Ruins of Persepolis — Ancient name of the city — The great platform — Colossal statues — Ruins of Chehel Minar — Sculptures and bas-reliefs on the ruins — Sir R. K. Porter's allegorical explanation — Terraces — Tablet with inscriptions in cuneiform letters — Tombs of the Kings — Remarkable excavations — Mutilations of the bas-reliefs at Nakhsh i Regib — Nakhsh i Rustum — Tablets hewn out of the rock — Tomb of Darius — Inscription on the tomb — Ancient fire-temple pp. 533 — 557

Chapter XXVIII

The three domes — Istakhr — Hareem of Jemsheed — Roadway built by Shah Abbas — Plain of Murghaub — Sepulchre of Bathsheba — Tomb of Cyrus — Takht i Suleiman, or Solomon's throne — Zindan i Suleiman, or Solomon's prison — Remains of Pasargadæ — Condition of Persia — Travelling in the country — A miserable caravanserai — Village of Surmek — Calendars — Kanats, or wells for irrigation — The town of Kumishah pp. 561—576

Chapter XXIX

Ispahan — The Chehar Bagh, or Four Gardens — Palace of the Chel Sitoon — The Medrassy, or College of Shah Hosein — The new palace — The streets of Julfa — Public buildings, bazaars, and mosques — The Afghan invasion of Persia — The Imam Jumah — Strange ceremony — The Armenian archbishop — Armenian cathedral of St. Joseph — The Ateshgar, or Place of Fire — Pigeon towers — The shaking minarets — The Ain. a Khauna, or Hall of Mirrors — Environs of Ispahan . . pp. 579 — CONTENTS. XIII

Chapter XXX

Continuation of our journey — Caravan of indigo — Mount Demavend — Kashan — Formidable scorpions — Story related by Chardin— 'Sanctuary in the Mosque of Fatima — Preservation of melons — Festival of the No Ruz — Ice-houses — Valley of the Angel of Death — Ghouls — A Persian fellow-traveller — Teheran — British embassy — The Citadel, or Ark — The Kasri Kajar — Favourite palace of Fetteh Ali Shah — The walls of Rey — Religious theatrical representation at Teheran — The reward of good acting pp. 601—620

Chapter XXXI

Nasr Ood Deen, Shah of Persia — State of the capital — Threatened famine — Salaam of the No Ruz — Costume of the Shah — Ceremonial — The crown jewels — The Deriah Noor, or Sea of Light — Misery of the people — The Persian army — European officers in the service of the Shah — Administration of justice — Curious anecdote — Prisons and prisoners in Persia — Revenue of the State — Public works — Declining condition of the empire — Russian encroachment pp. 623 — 644

Chapter XXXII

Rates of travelling in Persia — The famine — Kasvin — Remains of the fortress of Alamoot — The old man of the mountain — Sultaniah — Village of lepers — The bug of Mianah — Remarkable stones — Persian legend — Increase in number of lepers — Arrival at Tabreez — Appearance of the city — Value of water at Tabreez — Excessive cold in winter — Salt lake of Ooroomiyah — American missionary establishment — Village traditions — City of Khoi — Ararat — Village of Arvajik — Lawless district of Kurdistan pp. 647—664

Chapter XXXIII

Ouchklissa, or the Three Churches — Karaklissa — Erzeroum — Town of Hassan Kaleh — Circassian immigrants — A zealous Mushir — The citadel of Erzeroum — The medrassy, or college — Fortifications and mosques — Giant partridge — -Severity ofthe climate — Subterranean abodes — Mourad Khan — Genoese towers — Sigana Dagh — Alpine valleys — Enchanting scenery — Concealment of creed by a Christian community — Trebizond — First view of the Black Sea pp. 667—684 Index PP- 687—703 ILLUSTRATIONS. NO. PAGE 1. FIRE TEMPLE, BAKU To face Title 2. GEORGIAN COSTUMES 79 3. TIFLIS 89 4. CIRCASSIAN MARAUDERS 107 5. CIRCASSIAN DANCE 150 6. SCHAMYL 163 7. GOUNIB FROM CHEGEER 176 8. CHURCH OF THE MONASTERY OF ETCHMIADZIN 259 9. VAN 317 10. AKHTHAMAR FROM AGHAVANK 328 11. GATE OF YEZEEDI TEMPLE, SCHEIKH ADI. ... 409 12.

BEDOWEEN CROSSING THE TIGRIS WITH PLUNDER 430 13. BIRS NIMRUD 472 14. CARAVAN OF CORPSES GOING TO KERBELAH . . 481 15. PERSEPOLIS 533 16. TOMBS OF THE KINGS AT NAKHSH I RUST AM . 548 17. TOMB OF CYRUS, MURGHAUB 564 18. THE SHAH OF PERSIA ON

Chapter I. Board The Antwerp Packet Irish Recruits For The Papal Service

CHANGED ASPECT OF COLOGNE THE GERMAN WAITER HOMBURG PALACE OF THE PRINCE BISHOP OF WURTZBURG STEIN WINE CHURCH OF ST. LAWRENCE, AT NUREMBERG THE VALHALLA AT RATISBON TORTURE CHAMBER SCENERY OF THE DANUBE LINZ CONVENT OF MOLK RUINS OF DURRENSTEIN PALACE OF LACHSENBURG OPERA TROUPE FOR ODESSA — PRESBURG KO.MORN PETERWARDEIN SEMLIN AND BELGRADE. B CHAPTEE I. Z^iN a rainy morning in the early part of summer, having found our way to the St. Katherine's Docks, we embarked on board the Antwerp steamer, in which we had taken our passage for that old Flemish city which was to be our first halting-place on our projected journey to the remote East. The usual touters had pursued us with thenimportunate proffers of service as we threaded our way through the narrow lanes by which the locality in the neighbourhood of the docks is intersected, and it was not until we found ourselves safely on board that we were delivered from the persecution inflicted on us by those tormentors of all who travel by land or water.

In a short space of time, however, we were beyond their reach ; and having directed our course through the ranges of shipping that lined both sides of the river, we found ourselves ere long in clear water. We were not a numerous party in the cabin. There were only three ladies, and a sprinkling of gentlemen of all grades, including but a few German tourists, for whom the season was too early. On deck, however, a large party of recruits freshly levied in Ireland for the Papal service, and intended to form part of the army then in the field under Lamoriciere, made themselves happy in the enjoyment of present idleness and the hope of future fighting, as they said, somebody for something ; this, from repeated inquiries we made, being the only idea they seemed to possess of their ultimate destiny in the crusade on which they had embarked.

They were b 2 I ANTWERP BRUSSELS. comfortably and warmly clad, and appeared to have money to spend, which they generally laid out in the purchase of potent drinks of various kinds. One warlike individual, less enthusiastic but more prudent than the rest, wdio had spent the early days of careless youth, and had received his education, at a village called Bansha, in the county of Tipperary — a " big place," as he asserted — communicated to us in confidence the fact that he had hidden about him some money " to bring him back to his native land, if he didn't like the treatment he got with them." Who "they" were he did not vouch safe to disclose, probably because his own conception of the persons thus summarily designated was rather hazy. The remainder of these embryo warriors seemed to revel in the unwonted luxury of eating meat and drinking a delectable mixture of beer and gin, which, apparently from its novelty, seemed to be much in request among them.

If the important question with whom and for what they were going to fight had ever occurred to them, they had seemingly, in the wild enjoyment of the present hour, unanimously deferred its serious consideration to some future and more convenient occasion. They lay on deck during the night, huddled over each other, some drunk, some sick, and next morning, on landing at Antwerp, they seemed about as for lorn and woe-begone a lot of soldiers as ever excited the scorn of a drill-sergeant. The future of these heroes is well known. Surrendering without a blow, the Italian Govern ment dismissed them contemptuously home, where perhaps their experience of foreign travel enabled them to appraise themselves at their true value. Every one knowTs Antwerp, its fortifications, its docks, and its cathedral, its dirty narrow streets, and its clean and comfortable hotels.

To one of these we betook ourselves ; and, after a night's rest, pushed on to Brussels, where we arrived early next day. We spent the afternoon gazing upon the exterior of St. Gudule, paying the usual visit to the COLOGNE. oldest burgher of the town, the venerated Manikin, and wading through the mud in the park. Dear indeed to the feet and nostrils of the Belgians must be that unctuous com pound, for, as far as we could see, no profane hand was ever allowed to remove it, and the well-to-do citizens might be seen picking their way among the small puddles, sniffing their pungent odour with as much apparent satisfaction as if it were the fragrance of orange groves. Another day brought us to Cologne, so changed from the Cologne of former days ! Not only was there the splendid lattice iron-bridge over the river, but actually in some instances the streets appeared to be clean.

The inhabitants of the venerable archiepiscopal town are no doubt duly sensible of the benefits conferred by the former improvement, and the latter can be gratefully appreciated by those travellers who remember the thousand perfumes — all abominable — of the Cologne of old. Much, too, had been done to the cathedral. That glorious mass of masonry, that vision of stone — any hint as to the possible completion of which would once have been received by the natives of the city with a smile of incredulity — showed by the neatness of its outlines, its many finished pinnacles, and the numerous patches visible upon its time-stained walls, that much had been clone to strengthen and restore it ; and since that time we are happy to learn that, with the exception of the tower and spire, the magni ficent structure has been completed.

We "descended" at the hotel Disch, which enjoys the celebrity of possessing the best type, the beau ideal, of that peculiar race of men, the German waiter. Why it is that this sub-genus of the Indo-Teutonic race should possess so many strange attributes — such as being all alike in feature and hair, gregarious in their habits, yet without the cohesion of Arabs or nomads of any tribe, possessing a power of existing without sleep only equalled out of their own number by Talleyrand, and though apparently incapable of speaking r HOMBURG WURTZBURG. any language perfectly, yet comprehending all — let more learned ethnologists decide. The origin of this remarkable stunted race, who exist in such numbers in Germany, and nowhere out of the Fatherland, is a mystery of which, as travellers naturally anxious for an explanation of everything we behold, we should joyfully hail the solution.

If we had ever entertained any momentary doubt as to the locality in which we now found ourselves, our reminis cences of the Cologne of yore were soon unmistakeably revived. A strong odour pervading the hotel Disch dispelled any uncertainty as to its being the identical hostelry so long known by that name. Powerful as of old, it speedily acted as a gentle incentive to our departure for Frankfort, whither we accordingly set off next morning, and from which we proceeded to Homburg by diligence the following day. A few days, especially early in the year, are generally well spent at Homburg, either in losing one's own money in trying to win that of others, with a certain number of chances always against one, or in driving about the neigh bourhood, which is pretty, and well worth seeing. As at every "water" or resort, frequented by visitors eager for excitement, the paternal care of the Sovereign has provided tables where the stranger may be fleeced to the infinite advantage of his subjects, and the replenishment, through the licences by which gambling is made a legitimate amuse ment, of his own grand-ducal pockets.

Thus, in the excitement of gaming, time, the great enemy of the wayfarers of Homburg, may be pleasantly destroyed. Not happening to have in view the usual object which brings visitors in shoals to this locality, the 22nd saw us again on our way. We tarried at Wiirtzburg to behold the huge palace of the mighty old prince-bishops (now regarded as a possible temporary residence for Pius IX. if his subjects should succeed in their desire for annexation to the rest of the kingdom), its walls here and there exhibiting reminis- STEIN WINE NUREMBERG. 7 cences of the sieges which they had endured, in the shape of rents and cracks from cannon shot. This enormous building, which is unoccupied, together with the cathedral, is all that in this ancient town attracts a stranger's eye. Though appealing to another sense, we could not continue our journey without paying homage in the usual way to the celebrated Stein wine, which has been praised so much by tra vellers, not only from all European lands,but even from distant America.

Only made at Wiirtzburg, the vineyards, from the produce of which this nectar is manufactured, stretch but for a short distance round the town, and the wine having been celebrated throughout Germany for ages, the utmost care is taken in its fabrication. But for a due appreciation of its merits a long sultry drive, or a wearying walk in the parched streets, is first necessary. And then, reader, seated at a small table in the shade, with one of the round, pot bellied little flasks, in which it is always kept, before you, and in your hand your glass full of the golden fluid, cold but not iced, with the taste of the last one still on your lips, if you do not feel a sense of calm, placid benevolence to which you have hitherto been a stranger, you must be more or less than mortal. Yet even this had to be left behind, as we had made arrangements to continue our journey and reach Nuremberg next day.

Passing by rail through a very pretty country, low hills covered with timber, trout streams running through green meadows, and fields of richly cultivated land on all sides, Nuremberg is reached in a few hours from Wiirtzburg. The church of St. Lawrence is well worthy of a visit by all admirers of the purest Gothic, not defiled as it is but too often, particularly in Belgium, with side chapels of Greek, Italian, or mongrel styles, disfiguring the original design of the edifice. In this church there is no vile taste to complain of. The entire interior remains as at first designed a statement which unfortunately can be made of but RATISBON THE VALHALLA. few even of our most perfect ecclesiastical or municipal buildings. Its painted glass is also very good. The city of Nuremberg forcibly strikes a stranger with the curious effect of its narrow and hilly streets, its numerous old houses, and the number of bridges, many of them covered with mills and shops, reminding him of the pictures of old London Bridge.

The people seem also curiously old fashioned for these days of steam and telegraph. The next day brought us to Batisbon, where from rail we were to change to river. After depositing us in a dungeon in a fortress called there an hotel, the laquais de place, who first took possession of us on our arrival, brought us to see the Valhalla, or temple, erected by the late King Louis of Bavaria, in which wrere to be placed the statues and busts of all the great men of Germany ; and it certainly is a noble idea grandly carried out. On a hill towering over the Danube, here very winding in its course, this magnificent building, formed of white or cream-coloured stone, in the shape of a Greek temple, can be seen for miles in every direction. A massive flight of steps leads up to the platform on which it is built, and the busts of those distinguished Germans, who are judged worthy of so high an honour, are arranged on plinths round the walls of the interior.