The West Indies: their Social and Religious Condition

Front matter

HARBOUR STREET, KINGSTON THE WEST INDIES: THEIE SOCIAL AND KELIGIOUS CONDITION. Negro Servants. B3 EDWARD BEAN UNDERHILL. LONDON : JAC&SON, WALFORD, AND HODDEE, 1», ST\PAUL'S CHTOCH1AW). THE WEST INDIES: &hm Botml anil Religious (franbitian. K EDWAKD BEAN UNDEEHILL. LONDON : JACKSON, WALFORD, AND HODDER, 18, ST. PAUL'S CHURCHYARD. 18G2. COICHESTEE : FEINTED BY EDWAED BENHAM. TO SIR S. MORTON PETO, BART., M.P., Treasurer, THE REV. FREDERIC TRESTRAIL, Secretary, AUD TO THE COMMITTEE OF THE BAPTIST MISSIONARY SOCIETY, THIS VOLUME' IS DEDICATED BY THEIE COLLEAGUE AND FELLOW-LABOURER IK THE KINGDOM OF OUR LORD AND SAVIOUR.

Preface

. The tour, of which the following pages contain the record, was undertaken at the request of the Treasurer and Com mittee of the Baptist Missionary Society. Its object was primarily to investigate the religious condition of the numerous Baptist Churches -which have been formed in the islands of the West, especially as that condition has been affected by the Act of Emancipation. Emancipation was itself 'the fruit of the religious sentiments of Great Britain, and it has been found im possible, in judging of its results, to sepstrate the religious from the social aspect of it. For in the elevation of the negro, even freedom, with all its stim ulating influences, stands second in power to religion, and, without extending our view to other races, it will be seen that the advantages already gathered from liberty, owe their life and hopefulness to the influence which Christian truth exercises over the minds of tho en franchised.

I cannot doubt that the evidence here collected will satisfy both the friends of Christian Missions and the philanthropist, that their efforts have not been in vain ; that the Creoles of the West Indies are not deserving VI

PREFACE.

. of the reproaches which have been of late so freely cast upon their character as wanting in industry and intelligence. It is necessary, however, to remind my readers that the question to be determined, is not whether the enfranchised people of our West Indian Colonies have reached the platform of civilization and wealth occupied by the nations of Europe; but whether they have used well the twenty-three years of freedom they have enjoyed, and won such a position, in that short period of time in the life of a nation, as may fairly be expected of a race emerging from a cruel and debasing bondage. In my judgment, the answer must be given most em phatically in the affirmative. In that portion of my tour which embraced the island of .Jamaica, I enjoyed the companionship and efficient aid of my highly esteemed friend, the Rev. J. T. Brown, of Northampton, who was selected by the Mission Com mittee for this purpose.

Throughout the whole of these varied journeys and voyages, my dear Mrs. Underhill was my constant associate, and greatly contributed to the utility and interest of my work. We have most gratefully to acknowledge the number less acts of kindness we received, and the unreserved freedom with which all classes, whether Government authorities, planters, ministers, or the peasantry, com municated the information we sought. 13, Carnden Square, December lith, 1861. CONTENTS. TKINIDAD.

Chapter I. Page

The Voyage — Our Fellow-passengers— St. Kitts — Martinique — St. Lucia — Barbadoes — St. Vincents — Grenada — The Gulf of Paria — Port of Spain 3 CHAPTER H. State of Religion in Trinidad — Commencement of Baptist Mission —Its progress — The Portuguese Christians — Their persecutions and flight to Trinidad — The Church — Maria Jones — The Sunday School — Dry River Settlement — Christian Missions in Port of Spain — The Roman Catholic Church — The Use of the French Language — Creole French — Coolie English — The Romish Hierarchy — The Anglican Establishment — Public Buildings — Administration of Justice — A Trial — The Savannah — Maravel Valley — St. Joseph — Cultivators of the Soil — Arouca — Rebel Sepoys — A Peasant Sugar Manufacturer — The Mission 16 CHAPTER, III. San Fernando — The Churches and Missions — Savanna Grande — The Mission — Montserrat — American Negro Colonists — Missionary Work — A Sugar Estate — Immigrant Coohes — Their Religious Condition- Character of Creole Labourers — Sugar Cultivation — Matilda Boundary —New Grant — Third Company — Removal of Mission to San Fernando. 39

CHAPTER IV.

The Pitch Lake — La Brea — Sugar Planters — Coolie Labourers — Immigration — Emancipation — Its Results — The Sugar Act of 1845 — Lord Harris's Government — Immigration Ordinances — African Immigration — Coolie Immigration — Chinese Immigrants — Present Immigration Law — Its Working — General Results — Advantages — Drawbacks. 61 HAYTI.

CHAPTER I.

The Voyage — Grenada— Barbadoes — St. Thomas' — The Moravian Mission — Emancipation and Insurrection of the Slaves — Romanism — Charlotte Amelia — Porto Rico — Hayti — Jacmel — The Cemetery — Commencement of the Baptist Mission — Revolution — Conversion of Eliacine — The School — A Baptism — Reign of Terror — Progress of the Mission— The Church— The Boarding School— The Chapel— Extension of the Mission — Bible Readers as CONTENTS. CHAPTER n. FAGft Journey to Port-au-Prince — La Grand Rivtere — The Morne Khal — The Gros Morne — Plain of Leogane — Gressier — Petionville — Port-au- Prince — Wesleyan Mission — American Baptist Mission — American Episcopal Methodists — Romanism — The Cathedral — The City . . . 123 CHAPTER HI. Excitement in Hayti — Plot to overthrow the President — Its Discovery- Assassination of Madame Blanfort — The Trial — Speeches of the Baiv— Character of Soulouque's Reign — Feud of Race and Colour — Gefirard's Rule — The Worship of the Vaudoux — Superstition of Soulouque — Interview with the President — Measures of his Government — Magnanimity of President Gefirard — Return to Jacmel — Gorge' of La Boute— Future of Hayti 142 JAMAICA.

CHAPTER I.

Voyage to Kingston — Contradictions — Decay of Trade — The City of Kingston — Its Moral Condition — Its Religious Condition — Antagonisms of Race — Introduction of the Gospel— The Moravians — George Liele — Forms a Church — Its Covenant — Persecutions — Native Baptist Churches — Dr. Coke and the Wesleyan Mission — The Baptist Mission — The First Missionaries — Arrival of Mr. Brown 179 CHAPTER rr. Spanish Town — The Congregation — Church of England — The Public Buildings— The Legislature — Character of Legislation — Prejudices of Colour — The Brown Population — Passage Fort — Old Harbour Bay — A Native Baptist Church — Condition of the People— The Caymanas — The Labourers— Orange Grove— Sligoville — The First Township . 208 CHAPTER m. The Bog Walk— Linstead — George Give — The Gospel in St. Thomas-inthe-Vale — Persecutions— The Church at Jericho — Its Organization — State of Beligion — Slavery in St. Thomas-in-the-Vale — Generosity of Negroes— Sugar Cultivation — Mount Hermon — Opinions of the People — Wages and Labour — Character of the People — Why Estates are Ruinate — Two Classes of Labourers — Employment of Coolies — Causes of Decay of Sugar Cultivation — Removal of Protection — A Natural Bridge — Mount Diabolo 245 CHAPTER TV.

The Moneague— The Market— Mount Nebo— The Church — Labourers and Planters — Coultart Grove — New Clearings — Brown's Town- Schools at Buxton and Harmony — Calabar Institution — Its Origin The Tutors— The Normal School— The Examination— The Native Ministry CONTENTS. IX 343

CHAPTER V. PACK

Salem Chapel — The .Association of St. Ann's — State of the Churches — St. Ann's Bay — Formation of the Church — Its Condition — Its Discipline — Attendance at Public Worship — Religious Belief and Practice — Condition of the People — Labour and Labourers— Enjoyment of Freedom — Diminution of Wages and its Effects — The Planters— Their Treatment of the People— Immigration— Increase of Consumption of Sugar and Coffee— Visit to an Estate— Causes of Prosperity— Effect of the Revolution in San Domingo— Day and Task Work— The Storekeeper— Crime in St. Ann's— St. Ann's Bay- Roaring River— The Cataract 307

CHAPTER VI.

Drive to Oracabessa — Barriffe Hall Settlement — Pimento Cultivation — Oracabessa — Religious State of the People — Sugar Cultivation — Port Maria — Annotto Bay — Chapel destroyed by Fire — Labour in Metcalfe Parish — State of Religion — Treatment of the People — Brown's Town — Decline in Rate of Wages and Employment — Negro Settlements — Tlie Alps — Ulster Spring — Albert Town— Spring Gardens— Mouth River Cave — Route to Falmouth

CHAPTER VII.

Falmouth— Chapel of Mr. Knibb— The Congregations — The Town of Falmouth — Immigration — Competition with Slave Labour — Trelawny Parish — Duncans — The Sugar Mill — Working of Estates — Waldensia —Bunker's Hill— Hastings 367

CHAPTER VIII.

Parish of St. James — Sudbury — The Old Banger— His Notions of the State of the Island — Labours of Mr. Burchell — Moses Baker — Commencement of the Mission — Montego Bay — State of the Churches — Irwin Hill Moravian Station — Salters' HiU and Maldon — Commemoration of Mr. Dendy's Pastorate — Reminiscences — Mount Carey — Conference with Deacons and Leaders — The Churches — Religious State — Temporal Condition of the People — Causes of Irregularity of Labour — Visits to Estates — Absence of Generous Feeling . ... 385

CHAPTER IX.

Parish of Hanover — Mount Peto — Sandy Bay — Lucea — The Negro Yeoman — Produce of Hanover — Its Industrial Condition — Its Peasantry — Their Holdings — Value of their Produce — Condition of the People — Diminution of Sugar Cultivation— Population of Jamaica — Property of the People — Their Earnings — Value of their Labour — Creole Negroes not an Idle Race — Westmoreland — Morality of Sugar Cultivation — Savanna -la -Mai- — Return to Montego Bay . . . .412

CHAPTER X.

Jamaica Baptist Union — Views of the Deputation— Extent of the Mission — The Churches — Their Pecuniary Resources — Decline of Numbers — Ite Causes — Decay of Contributions — Its Causes — Supply of Ministers— Effects of the Plurality of Pastorates — More Ministers required — Need of European Ministers — How to be Supplied — Day Schools — Their Resources — General Education in Jamaica .... CONTENTS. X

CHAPTER XI. PACE

Departure from Montego Bay— Refuge — Clarksonville and Mount Zion —Staceyville— Journey to Four Paths— Kellitt's Estate— Chapelton— Four Paths— State of the Churches— Uncertain Titles to Land— Visit to two Sugar Estates— Return to Kingston — Missionary Meetings — Visit to Yallahs— Cultivation of Cotton -Concluding Observations . 443 CUBA AND THE BAHAMAS.

CHAPTER I.

Departure from Kingston — Arrival at the Havana — The City — Prosperity of Cuba— Fertility of its Soil — Its Slave Code — Its Slavery — Chinese Immigrants — State of Society — Its Irreligion — Insecurity of Life — Lottery Tickets — The Charleston Convention — Secession — Our Departure — A Slave Ship Captured — Arrival at New Providence . . . 403

Chapter II

The Bahamas— Population — Commencement of the Mission — Extent of the Mission— The Mission Churches— The Church in Nassau— Its Out-stations— Town of Nassau — The Wrecking System— Religious Denominations — The Government — Its Revenue — Cruise among the Islands— San Salvador— Its Churches and People— Negro Anthems- Good English— Inagua— The Salt-pans— The Chapel— Turks' Islands —Their Settlement— Tenure of the Salt-ponds— The Churches— A Hurricane Adventure— State of Religion— Return Voyage— The Sea and its Beauties— Farewells— Home-bound ..." 472 ERRATA. Page 96, line 9, for hurtling, read beetling. Page 120, line 16, for converstion, read conversum. Page 235, line 16, for inpenetrablc, read impenetrable. Page 266, line 2, for if, read tehen. Page 295, line 19, for humam, read human. Page 335, line 12, for iwelvth, read twelfth. TRINIDAD. TRINIDAD.

CHAPTER I.

The Voyage — Our Fellow-passengers — St. Kitts — Martinique — St. Lucia — Barbadoes — St. Vincent's — Grenada — The Gulf of Paria — Port of Spain. A voyage across the Atlantic to the isles of the West, in the summer season, in one of the splendidly-fitted steamers of the Royal Mail Company, does not afford many incidents. Fine or stormy, as the weather may perchance be, the noble vessel, alike unheeding tempest or calm, presses on its way ; nor does its heart of steam cease for a moment to beat, till the voyagers gaze on the pleasant-looking city of St. Thomas's Isle, aud are moored in its land-locked and unhealthy harbour. On the fifth day from Southampton, a brief glimpse was afforded us of the Isle of Terceira, one of the Azores, as towards sunset we hastened by. We passed on the south side of the island.

St. George's Isle was also in TRINIDAD, sight ; and dimly on the horizon we caught a glimpse of the cone of Pico, some sixty miles off. The sunset was glorious : it lit up the hills and dales of Terceira with an exquisite purple light, which gradually faded away into the grey haze of twilight. Then came the moon to give another charm to the fretful wave, to the ripple of the more distant sea, and to the shadowy regions of the land, as we hurried on our way. To most passengers, the objects of interest afforded by the sea are soon exhausted. The sparkling, fright ened flight of the flying-fish attracts notice for a little while ; schools of porpoises, in slow rolling motion on the surface of the waves, soon tire the spectator ; and the more that they allow no questions, no examinations of their attainments in fish or other lore.

The sea weed of the wonderful gulf stream has a share of attention, and gives rise to much scientific and other talk on the origin and course of this great river of the sea, and its climatic influence on the lands whose shores it laves. At length interest fastens on our fellow passengers, and the coolness cf the first few days wears away. Travelling experiences are recounted, thoughts on many things are exchanged, and in a while matters of personal concern are more or less confidentially imparted. Little by little free intercourse is established, and the party on board settles down into well-under stood combinations, on terms of easy familiarity. Our fellow-voyagers were of a mingled sort : some were Spaniards, on their way to Cuba ; others were Mexicans, returning to their homes after an European TRINIDAD. 5 tour, or from a visit to the marts of the Old World.

One gentleman was an employe of the Mexican Govern ment, having fulfilled a diplomatic trust in Spain. With great earnestness he assured us that the journey from Vera Cruz to the capital of Mexico was a dangerous one : he should most certainly be robbed on the way, and perhaps murdered. A few members of the party seemed to think that the possession of Mexico by the Government of the United States was an arrangement devoutly to be wished, even at the cost of its separate national existence. Anything would be better than the present chronic anarchy, and the absence of security for person and property, which for so many years have been the condition of this fine portion of the globe. There was, however, more interest for us in the opinions of some on board connected with the West India sugar islands, and whose personal acquaintance with the places and people we were about to visit, enabled them to communicate facts which might be useful in guiding our judgment or our plans.

Several gentlemen of official rank were passengers ; and we listened with pleasure to their statements on the general condition of the islands, and the results of emancipation. Not one desired the return of slavery. Jamaica ex cepted, all the English islands were said to be prospering, some more so than at any former period of their history. Especially was this the case with St. Kitts. St. Kitts, or rather St. Christophers, contains about 21,000 inhabitants. There are not labourers sufficient TRINIDAD. for the cultivation of the island, and much competition exists among the planters for their services. They are therefore well paid, and enjoy many immunities. The money rate of wages is kept pretty uniform ; but the planters osier inducements in the way of provision grounds, better bouses, liberty to graze goats and cattle on tbe estate's lands, to secure the labourers' toil.

The people not immediately engaged in the cultivation of the estates, hold their houses and land at low rents ; a few of them are owners of the property they occupy. The deficiency of labour leads to a somewhat untidy cultivation ; and in this respect the island does not compare with Barbadoes, where population is abundant, and the rate of wages low ; but the produce of the island is large and increasing. Last year 9600 hogsheads of sugar were exported, the largest export for fifty-one years, of which our informant himself shipped one tenth. The planters do not make the large profits of slavery times ; but the people, i. e. the emancipated negroes, are far better off, are rising socially, and enjoy many privileges. They are contented ; and if individuals among the whites have suffered, the community, as a whole, in every moral and social respect, has been a great gainer by emancipation.

The people are well housed, well dressed, but not provident. There are, however, no paupers. The sick and those unable to work are provided for in hospitals, supported from Government funds. Work is abundant. Idleness or crime alone prevents a man from obtaining a good subsistence. TRINIDAD. Schools are supported by grants in aid, from funds raised by taxation on provision grounds. Each school so assisted must have, at least, fifty scholars in regular attendance. All children under twelve years of age are, by law, under the charge of the medical officer appointed to each parish, who is salaried by the Govern ment. His sr.nitary powers are very considerable. The population thus loses but a small proportion of its children ; additions are made by natural increase to the labouring class, and the foundation is wisely laid for a sufficiency of labour as cultivation extends, apart from the costly immigration schemes of other islands.* The island is broken up into nine parishes, and a church has been erected in each parish ; but there is not a sufficient supply of clergymen for them all.

The Moravian and Wesleyan missions are flourishing. A striking illustration of the impressibility of the negro character is seen in the effects of the religious teaching of these two bodies. The Moravian negro is quiet, easily satisfied, and seldom displays any anxiety to better his condition. He avoids lawsuits, and is patient undor wrong. The Wesleyan negro is more active, fond of show, somewhat given to self-assertion, more independent, and anxious to secure his legal rights. In a similar way, national characteristics are impressed on the negro : the English negro is easily * The natural increase of population is not, however, sufficiently large to meet the growing demands of capital, and the extension of cultivation. Since my return to Europe, the legislature of St. Kitts has determined to resort to immigration.

TRINIDAD. distinguished from a French or Spanish negro, and these from each other, according to the influences under which they live. The Government pays much attention to the general welfare of the coloured population. Taxation is thrown as much as possible on articles of import or export, and so arranged as rather to stimulate industry, and check extravagance, than to burden any particular class. The prejudice of colour is not unknown ; but it is stronger between the various shades of brown and black, than between the black and the white. The following is an illustration. A black man was chosen a member of the Assembly. Several brown men were already members. They threatened to resign their seats if a black man was permitted to share their deliberations. The Government insisted on the black man's right, and, after much wordy war, the objectors were obliged to submit.

The chief barrier to equal social intercourse with the whites, is stated to lie in tastes and habits still tinged with the vices of slavery, and the ill-educated condition of the black population. Conscious of inferiority in these respects, they shrink from the society of white people, and are uneasy in their company. Crime is not prevalent, and what there is consists chiefly of petty thefts, larcenies, and personal abuse. In abundant seasons, every kind of crime diminishes. The number of offences rises or falls with the diminution or increase of employment. The magistrates depend much on the influence of the missionaries to TRINIDAD. restrain excesses, and to preserve the people within the bounds of law. No small portion of this favourable picture of the working of emancipation in St. Kitts, is doubtless owing to the residence on the island of many of the proprietors of the estates, and the wisdom which of late years has characterised the measures of its Government.

But very different views were expressed by others of our fellow-passengers. Thus it was said, that the Act of 1838 was, with a great want of wisdom, carried into hasty execution. Time ought to have been allowed for preparation. The change was too sudden, and was inevitably followed by the ruin of Jamaica, Grenada, St. Vincent's, and the rest of the English Antilles. The slave, as the result has shown, was unfit for freedom. He should have been placed under salutary restraint for a long term of years, during which education should have been imparted, and habits of industry and self-restraint acquired. The fanatical zeal of philanthropists and missionaries defeated every measure of this kind. Hence in Jamaica, and Trinidad, and Guiana, the enfranchised slave hastened to the woods, and squatted on unoccupied lands ; and, although an improvement may now manifest itself in some places, yet, as a race, the negroes are improvident, idle, and not accessible to the usual motives which procure in more savoured lands regular and skilful labour for the capitalist.

More than once, Baptist missionaries were said to have been the chief obstacle TRINIDAD to a sound and fair settlement of those economical questions which emancipation raised for solution. To such statements it was only permitted us to listen, to inquire, to compare, withholding for the present a definite judgment. The following pages will, in due course, give to our readers the final conclusions to which we came. Few voyages are more beautiful than the run from St. Thomas' to Trinidad. The mail packet touches at the larger islands, and passes within sight of nearly all the rest. Martinique, the southern end of St. Lucia, and St. Vincent's, surpass all others in grandeur, wild picturesque beauty, and impressive mountain scenery. It was at sunrise that we approached Martinique. Mountains, hills, valleys, ravines, gorges, precipices, in infinite variety of form, presented, as we steamed along, a panorama of surpassing beauty.

Everywhere were the signs of cultivation. The slopes of the hills, and the dales, were covered with plantations. Here and there, a " sucrerie " peeped out from the abundant foliage of mango-trees, or was surrounded by groves of cocoanut palms bending in manifold graceful forms. The mountain tops were covered with forests ; the whole glowing with light and varied colour, as the sun ascended to the zenith. The bustle of the port, and the numerous ships lying in the roadstead, proved the existence of a considerable trade. It is understood that the colony has surmounted the depression that followed emancipation, which boon was granted by the TRINIDAD. 11 revolutionary government of France, in 1 848 ; but it is difficult to obtain any accurate reports of the progress of the French colonies. The freedom enjoyed is not that absolute liberty secured to the negro in British possessions ; but is said to be a species of serfdom, which compels labour, and leaves to the enfranchised little choice as to the kind or place of toil.

As we coasted along, the scenery became more quiet, but was still most charming. In some places were immense dykes, like walls of masonry, enclosing gloomy ravines. In others, the swelling hills were brilliantly green with growing cane crops. Beyond, mountains towered to the clouds and hid their heads in mist, while their slopes towards the sea, presented to the voyager the pleasant sight of fields under culture with tropical productions. At the southern end, the land becomes flat and uninteresting. A short run, and we were in sight of St. Lucia. This is an English island. On the northern side, the side of our approach, the hills are covered with bush, or forest, presenting but few signs of cultivation. About the port of Castries, the mountains put on a bolder form. Lofty eminences are seen to the southward ; most con spicuously, the two peaks called Pitou, or Les Aiguilles.

They are conical in form, and, with other contiguous elevations, exhibit unmistakeable marks of volcanic origin. Hot springs even now testify of the fires that slumber beneath. As the chief cultivation is on the north side of the island, it was not visible to us, our course lying to the west. TRINIDAD, Early on the Lord's Day we anchored for a short time in the roadstead of Barbadoes. The church bells sounded very sweetly across the calm surface of the sea, awakening home associations, and a feeling of exile from the land of our birth. Barbadoes is a low coral island ; its wavy surface is under cultivation in every part. The houses of the people are scattered about over the plantations. We were assured that here, at least, emancipation has wrought no harm, that great prosperity is the present lot of its proprietors.

The people, however, are said to have made less progress in godliness and civilization than in other islands. They are chiefly estate labourers still, and few possess land of their own. The population is very dense. The rate of wages is therefore low ; and many of the arts and enjoyments of civilized life are beyond the means of the people. Hasting away, we reached St. Vincent's late in the afternoon. Its general appearance is, in many respects, like that of Martinique. Bold masses of mountains are interspersed with verdant valleys, rude ravines, and rugged steeps. Volcanic peaks and crater-like hollows, mounds and crevices, rich with luxuriant vegetation, give a wild grandeur to the scenery. The accessible spots are occupied with fields of sugar cane ; and, standing in their midst, is the mill for the manufacture.

Kingston, the chief town, lies at the bottom of a omall, but imposing harbour. Our steamer sailed in close under lofty precipitous rocks, almost grazing them with her paddle-box. The strata of these lofty precipices are TRINIDAD. 13 thrown into a perpendicular position, the work of vol canic forces ; the harbour itself, having every appearance of being once the crater of an active volcano. On the lofty promontory which forms one side of the harbour, are situated the barracks. We sailed away in the gloam ing, the sun tinging the rocks with gold and purple hues, as he went to rest. Before dawn the following morning we awoke with the sudden stoppage of the vessel ; she had run aground on a coral-reef, in the outer harbour of Grenada. For a few hours there was much anxiety ; but at length by skilful warping, throwing over the heavier spars, and shifting the cargo, we got off without damage.

After coaling, we quickly steamed on our way, and as the shades of evening fell, obtained a glimpse of the mountains which mark the nothern coast of the Island of Trinidad. Grenada, we were told by a fellow-passenger, is fast going to ruin. Certainly, our brief inspection of the town bore out the statement. Houses in considerable numbers were closed, and falling to decay. The streets and squares were grass-grown ; the shops looked bare and dull, and no vehicles broke the silence of the rude paving over which we stumbled. There is said to be a want of both labourers and enterprise ; yet the island is one of the most fertile of the smaller Antilles, is very healthy, and its fruits are among the finest and best. Tropical vegetation chokes up the dismantled fort ; climbs, and then crumbles down, the empty dwellings ; clothes every rock with freshness; even the steep volcanic sides of the mountains are draped with the TRINIDAD. roots of trees ; triumphs of tenacity they hold fast to the precipitous lodgement they have chosen.

The very margin of the sea has its sands and rocks carpeted with herbage, as if nature, with untiring but kindly hand, would hide the decay of man's works, and revel in her freedom from man's cidture. Grenada owes its decay, like some other islands, to the perverse conduct of the planters at emancipation. A system of summary ejectment was resorted to on the estates, without any regard to age or sex, which drove the people to emigrate to Trinidad, or to more kindly spots. Drought and unfavourable seasons completed the work which a blind folly began. Of late, however, the attention of the planters of Barbadoes has been drawn to the advantages of Grenada. A few estates have been cheaply purchased, and a portion of the over-crowded population of Barbadoes has been induced to transfer its labour to this fertile soil.

For some years the exports have chiefly been confined to ground provisions, sent to other islands more cultivated and prosperous. The delay occasioned by the accident at Grenada, rendered our entrance of the Gulf of Paria one of some risk and anxiety. It was midnight before we reached the formidable straits, so well named by the great Columbus, the Dragons' Mouths. The gloom before the moon rose, rendered great caution necessary as we neared the land. Entering the chops of the channel, our good ship battled unsuccessfully for a time with the angry current, as it rushed between the frowning TRINIDAD. and craggy rocks, which constitute the Umbrella passage. No beacon light guides the voyager amid the hurtling rush of waters. For a few minutes the steamer struggled in vain with the fierce torrent, and not until she had gradually sidled across to calmer water under the opposite rocks, was she able to win her way into the quiet sea of the gulf.