Across the Sub-Arctics of Canada, etc

Front matter

J . \XV. TYRRELL., (In Eskimo costume.) ACROSS THE SUB-ARCTICS OF CANADA A JOURNEY OF 3,200 MILES BY CANOE AND SNOWSHOE THROUGH THE BARREN LANDS BY J. W. TYRRELL, C.E., D.L.S INCLUDING A LIST OF PLANTS COLLECTED ON THE EXPEDITION, A VOCABULARY OF ESKIMO WORDS, A ROUTE MAP AND FULL CLASSIFIED INDEX With Illustrations from Photographs taken on the Journey, and from Drawings by ARTHUR HEMING NEW YORK : DODD, MEAD AND COMPANY. CONTENTS. CHAPTER PAGB I. Toronto to Athabasca Landing - 7 II. Down the Athabasca 19 III. Running the Rapids ------- 36 IV. Chippewyan to Black Lake 49 V. Into the Unknown Wilderness 70 VI. The Home of the Reindeer ----- 80 VII. A Great Frozen Lake ------ 90 VIII. On the Lower Telzoa 102 IX. Meeting with Natives 114 X. The Eskimos 127 XL Customs of the Eskimos ------ 147 XII.

Down to the Sea ------- 172 XIII. Adventures bt Land and Sea 181 XIV. Polar Bears - - - - - - - - 189 XV. Life or Death? - 199 XVI. Fort Churchill 210 XVII. On Snowshoes and Dog-Sleds ----- 219 XVIII. Crossing the Nelson - 229 XIX. Through the Forest and Home [Again - - - 240 appendix I. Plants Collected on the Expedition - - - 251 II. Eskimo Vocabulary cf Words and Phrases "- - ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE J. W. Tyrrell ....... Frontispiece J. Burr Tyrrell --------- 8 Our Canoemen 11 Hudson's Bay Company's Traders - - - - - 13 A Hudson's Bay Company's Interpreter 15 A Pioneer of the North 16 Indians of the Canadian North-West - - . - Is Trooper, N.-W. Mounted Police, in Winter Uniform - 26 Landing of Scows above Grand Rapid 29 Grand Rapid, Athabasca River ------ 31 English-Chippewyan Half-Breed - 32 Neck Developed by the Tump-Line ----- 35 Shooting the Mountain Rapid, Athabasca River - - 40 Store, Fort McMurray -------- 41 Chippewy'an Camp - 42 .Starving Cree Camp, Fort McMurray 44 A Dandy of the North.

A Voyageur 46 An English-Cree Tr\pper ------- 48 Fort Chippewyan --------- 50 Steamer "Grahame" 52 Landing on North Shore, Lake Athabasca 56 A Typical Northland Father 59 Indian Log House 64 Cataract, Stone River - 65 A Difficult Portage -------- 67 Indian Rafts Loaded with Venison ----- 69 A. R. C Selwyn, C.M.G., F.R.S. ------ 74 Scotch-Cree Half-Breed VI ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE Telzoa River - - 82 Rapids, Telzoa River - - 83 Herd of Reindeer - - - - - - - . - - 85 Ice on the Shore of Markham Lake 91 Tobaunt Lake - 94 French-Cree Half-Breed - 101 Rapids on the Lower Telzoa 103- Musk Oxen ----- 104 Eskimo "Topick," Telzoa River - 106 Eskimo Hunters 121 Group of Eskimos - - - - - - - - - 122 Icelandic Settler 125 An Eskimo. Eskimo Woman - - 126 Half-Breed Hunter with Wooden Snow-Goggles - - 134 Section Through Igloe - 136 Eskimo Kyack ---------- 14] Eskimo Oomiack --------- 140 Dog-Whip, Walrus Tusks and Bows and Arrows - - 146 Harpoons, Lances and Spears - 154 Eskimo Games and Toy's -------- 163 Half-Breed Boy' --------- ]g0- Blackfoot Boy 188 Encounter with Polar Bears ---... igg The Last of Our Provisions 199 French Salteaux Girl 209 Rev. Joseph Lofthouse and Family - 212 Ruins of Fort Prince of Wales ------ 216 Ice-Blwck Grounded at Low Tide - 218 N.-W. M. P. "Off Duty" - - - 228 Half-Breed Dog-Driver 229 Hudson's Bay Company's Store, York Factory - - . 238 Red-Deer Cow-Boy --..,._._ 239 Dog- Train and Carryall 240 Cree Hunter's Prize 250^ Jfou-rt: or rue Tr-j*/?£i-t. £jtf*:jo/rjOsS or S83& Tmvo<JHH /Vo/vrn£r>?rrr Cmwxoa

Chapter I. Toronto To Athabasca Landing

On the morning of the 10th of May, 1893, in response to a telegram from Ottawa, I took train at Hamilton for Toronto, to meet my brother, J. Burr Tyrrell, of the Canadian Geological Survey, and make final arrange ments for a trip to the North. He had been authorized by the Director of that most important department of the Canadian Government to conduct, in company with myself, an exploration survey through the great mysterious region of terra incognita commonly known as the Barren Lands, more than two hundred thousand square miles in extent, lying north of the 59th parallel of latitude, between Great Slave Lake and Hudson Bay. Of almost this entire territory less was known than of the remotest districts of " Darkest Africa," and, with but few exceptions, its vast and dreary plains had never been trodden by the foot of man, save that of the dusky savage.

During the summer of 1892 my brother had obtained some information concerning it from the Chippewyan Indians in the vicinity of Athabasca and Black Lakes, but even these native tribes were found to have only the vaguest ideas of the character of the country that lay beyond a few days' journey inland. In addition to this meagre information, he had procured sketch maps of several canoe routes lead ing northward toward the Barren Lands. The most easterly of these routes commenced at a point on the north shore of Black Lake, and the description ob tained of it was as follows : " Beginning at Black Lake, you make a long portage northward to a little lake, then across five or six more small ones and a corresponding number of portages, and a large body of water called Wolverine Lake will be reached.

Pass through this, and ascend a river flowing into it from the northward, until Active Man Lake is reached. This lake will take two days to cross, and at its northern extremity the Height of Land will be reached. Over this make a portage until another large lake of about equal size is entered. From the north end of this second large lake, a great river flows to the northward through a treeless country unknown to the Indians, but inhabited by savage Eskimos. Where the river empties into the sea we cannot tell, but it flows a great way to the northward." From the description given, it appeared that this river must flow through the centre of the unexplored territor}-, and thence find its way either into the waters of Hudson Bay or into the Arctic Ocean. It was hy this route we resolved to carry on the exploration, and, if possible, make our way through the Barren Lands.

One of the first and most important preparations for the journey was the procuring of suitable boats, in asmuch as portability, strength and carrying capacity J. BURR TYRRELL (Leaving Fort Ch urch ill. ) TORONTO TO ATHABASCA LANDING. were all essential qualities. These were obtained from the Peterboro' Canoe Company, who furnished us with two beautiful varnished cedar canoes, eighteen feet in length, and capable of carrying two thousand pounds each, while weighing only one hundred and twenty pounds. Arrangements had also been made to have a nineteen foot basswood canoe, used during the previous summer, and two men in readiness at Fort McMun*ayon the Athabasca River. Four other canoemen were chosen to complete the party, three of them being Iroquois experts from Caughnawaga, Quebec. These three were brothers, named Pierre, Louis and Michel French.

Pierre was a veteran canoeman, being as much at home in a boiling rapid as on the calmest water. For some years he had acted as ferryman at Caughnawaga, and only recently had made a reputation for himself by running the Lachine Rapids on Christmas day, out of sheer bravado. His brother Louis had won some distinction also through having accompanied Lord Wolseley as a voyageur on his Egyptian campaigns ; while Michel, the youngest and smallest of the three, was known to be a good steady fellow, boasting of the same distinction as his brother Louis. The other man, a half-breed named John Flett, was eno:ao-ed at Prince Albert, in the North-West. He was highly recommended, not so much as a canoeman, but as being an expert portager of great experience in northern travel, and also an Eskimo linguist.

The two men, James Corrigal and Francois Maurice, who through the kindness of Mr. Moberly, the officer of the Hudson's Bay Company at Isle-a-la-Crosse, were engaged to meet us with a third canoe at Fort McMur ray, were also western half-breeds, trained in the use of the pack-straps as well as the paddle, and were a pair of fine strong fellows. Thus it was arranged to com bine in our party the best skill both of canoemen and portagers. Our reasons for not employing the Indians from Lake Athabasca were, that these natives had on nearly all previous expeditions proved to be unreliable. Such men as we had engaged, unlike these Indians, were free from any dread of the Eskimos, and as we advanced soon became entirely dependent on us as their guides. Besides, they were more accustomed to vigorous exertion at the paddle and on the portage than the local Indians, who are rather noted for their proficiency in taking life easy.

Next in importance to procuring good boats and canoemen was the acquisition of a complete set of port able mathematical instruments, but after some difficulty these, too, were obtained. The following is a list of them : One sextant with folding mercurial horizon, one solar compass, two pocket compasses, two prismatic com passes, one fluid compass, two boat logs, two clinometers, one aneroid barometer, a pair of maximum and mini mum thermometers, one pocket chronometer, three good watches, a pair of field-glasses, an aluminum binocular, and a small camera. These, though numerous, were not bulky, but they comprised a part of our outfit over which much care had to be exercised throughout the journey. A bill of necessary supplies was also carefully made out, and the order for them forwarded to the Hudson's Bay Company's store at Edmonton, with Francois Pierre John Jim Michel Louis Maurice.

French. Flett. Corrigal. French. French OUR CANOEMEN. instructions to have them freighted down the Athabasca River to Fort Chippewyan, on Lake Athabasca, as early as possible. The above and a hundred and one other preparations having been completed, my brother and I bade farewell to our homes, and on the 16th of May boarded the North Bay evening express at Toronto. The journey was not begun without the stirring of tender emo tions, for to me it meant separation, how long I knew not, from my young wife and baby boy five months old, and to my brother it meant separation from one too sacred in his eyes to mention here. Once aboard the train we made ourselves as comfort able as possible for a five days' ride. I do not propose to weary my readers with a detailed account of the long run across continent by rail, as it is not reckoned a part of our real journey ; in passing I will merely make the briefest reference to a few of the incidents by the way.

It was not until after many delays between North Bay and Fort William on the Canadian Pacific Railway, owing chiefly to the disastrous floods of that year, which inundated the track for long distances, washed it out at several points and broke one of the railway bridges, that we arrived at Winnipeg, the capital of the Province of Manitoba. Upon reaching the city it was found that our canoes, which had been shipped to Edmonton some time previously, had not yet passed through. After considerable telegraphing they were located, and it was found that the}' would arrive on the following day. In consequence of this and other business to be transacted with the Commissioner of the Hudson's Ba}T Company, we were obliged to remain here for a day. During our TORONTO TO ATHABASCA LANDING. brief stay we were warmly greeted by many friends, and were most kindly entertained at Government House by the late Lieutenant-Governor, Sir John Schultz, and Lady Schultz, to whom we were indebted for the con tribution to our equipment of several articles of comfort.

The next day we bade our Winnipeg friends good-bye and took the C. P. R. train for the West. The route lay HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY S TRADERS through vast areas of the most magnificent agricultural country, as a rule level and unbroken, save by the innu merable and ancient but still deep trails of the buffalo. Little timber was observed, excepting in isolated patches and along the river valleys, and for the most part the land was ready for the plough. Passing through many new but thriving towns and settlements by the way, we arrived earty on the morning of the 22nd at the busy town of Calgary, pleasantly situated in the beautiful valley of the Soutli Branch of the Saskatchewan River, and just within view of the snow-clad peaks of the Rocky Mountains. From Calgary our way lay toward the north, via the Edmonton Branch of the C. P. R-, and after a stay of onl}*- a few hours we were again hurrying onward.

On the evening of the same day, in a teeming rain, we reached Edmonton, the northern terminus of the railway. Edmonton is a town situated on both banks of the North Branch of the Saskatchewan, and at this time was in a " booming " condition, particularly upon the southern bank. Many large business houses were being erected, and property was selling at stiff prices. Ed monton is chiefly noted for its lignite mines, which are worked to a considerable extent, and produce coal of very fair quality The seams are practically of unlimited extent, and are easily accessible in many places along the river banks. Gold is also washed from the sands in paying quantities, while the town is surrounded by a fair agricultural and grazing countiy. Petroleum, too, has been discovered in the vicinity, and indications are that in the near future Edmonton will be a flourishing city.

The older part of the town is situated on the north side of the river, and communication is maintained by means of an old-fashioned ferry, operated by cables and windlass. As the Hudson's Bay Company's stores and offices from which our supplies were to be forwarded are situated on the north side, we crossed over on the ferry, and engaged rooms at the Jasper House. Upon enquiry we were gratified to find that the supplies and men, excepting the two who were to meet us later, had all arrived in safety. Our provisions, which were to be TORONTO TO ATHABASCA LANDING. freighted down as far as Lake Athabasca by the Hud son's Bay Company, had not yet gone, but were already being baled up for shipment. The completion of this work, which was done under the supervision of my brother and myself, together with the making up of accounts and transaction of other business, occupied several days.

But by the morning of the 27th of Ma}' our entire outfit, loaded upon waggons, set off on the northward trail leading to Atha basca Landing, a small trading post situated one hundred miles distant on the banks of the great Athabasca River. Two days later, being Mon day morning, my brother and I, accompanied by a driver only, started out in a light vehicle in rear of the outfit. The weather was showery, and the trail in many places very soft. Occa sionally deep mud-holes were encountered, bearing evidence of the recent struggles of the teams of our advance party, but a h. b. c. interpreter. as we were travelling " light," we had little difficulty in making good progress. Later in the day the weather cleared, permitting us to enjoy a view of the beautiful country through which we were passing.

As to the soil, it was chiefly a rich black loam, well covered, even at this early season, between the clumps of poplar scrub, by rich prairie grass. A few settlers were already in the field, and had just built or were building log cabins for themselves on one side or other of the trail. A little farther on our way the country became more hilly, the soil more sandy, and covered by the A PIONEER OF THE NORTH. (Drawn from life by Arthur Heming.) most beautiful park-like forests of jack-pine. Many of the trees were as much as fifteen inches in diameter, but the average size was about eight. TORONTO TO ATHABASCA LANDING. After passing through some miles of these woods we again emerged into more open country, wooded alternately in places by poplar, spruce and jack-pine. About nine o'clock that evening, when half-way to the Landing, we reached the Height of Land between the two great valleys of the Saskatchewan and Athabasca rivers.

Here, upon a grassy spot, we pitched our first camp. As the night was clear no tents were put up, but, after partaking of some refreshment, each man rolled up in his blanket and lay clown to sleep beneath the starry sky. We rested well, although our slumbers were somewhat broken by the fiendish yells of prairie wolves from the surrounding scrub, and the scarcely less diabolical screams of loons sporting on a pond close by. An effort was made to have the latter nuisance removed, but any one who has ever tried to shoot loons at night will better understand than I can describe the immensity of the undertaking. About nine o'clock on the evening of the 30th of May we arrived at Athabasca Landing, only a few hours after the loads of supplies, which we were glad to find had all come through safely. ■2 CRKK WOMAN, BLACKFOOT IN WAR-PAINT BLOOD BRAVE IN WAR-BONNET CREE DIGNITARY ARCKE BRAVE INDIANS OF THE CANADIAN NORTH-WEST (Drawn from, life by Arthur Heminq.)

Chapter II. Down The Athabasca

The town of Athabasca Landing consists in all of six log buildings, picturesquely set in the deep and beautiful valley of one of the greatest rivers of America. Though not of imposing size, it is nevertheless an im portant station of the Hudson's Bay Company, being the point from which all supplies for the many northern trading-posts along the Athabasca and Mackenzie rivers are shipped, and the point at which the furs from these places are received. In order to provide for this ship ping business, the Company has a large warehouse and wharf. It is a fact I think not very well known, that from this place up stream for about one hundred miles and down for fifteen hundred miles to the Arctic Ocean, this great waterway, excepting at two rapids, is regularly navigated by large river steamers, owned by the Hudson's Bay Company and employed in carrying supplies for their posts and the furs which are secured in trade.

Because of these two impassable rapids the river is divided into three sections, necessitating the use of three steamers, one for each section. Goods are transported from one boat to the other over the greater part of the rapids by means of scows, but for a short distance, at the Grand Rapid, by means of a tramway built for the purpose. As we had previously ascertained, the steamer Atha basca was due to leave the Landing on her down-stream trip on or about the 1st of June, so, taking advantage of the opportunity, we shipped the bulk of our stuff to Fort Chippewyan, situated about three hundred and fifty miles down the river on Lake Athabasca. Every thing excepting the canoes and provisions sufficient to. take us to Chippewyan was loaded upon the steamer. Letters were written and sent back to Edmonton by the drivers, and on the evening of the last day of May we launched our handsome " Peterborough^ " in the great stream, and commenced our long canoe voyage.

The arrangement of the party was as follows : My brother occupied a central position in one canoe, and I a corresponding place in the other. As steersman he chose the eldest of the Iroquois, Pierre, with Michel as bowman. The remaining Iroquois, Louis, took the steering paddle of my canoe, and John, the western man, occupied the bow. Thus were our little crafts manned, each person, including my brother and myself, being provided with a broad maple paddle. Our loads being light, we were in good speeding condition. Just after launching we met some native Indians in then bark canoes, and by way of amusement and exhibition of speed paddled completely around them in the current, much to their amazement. Then with farewell salute, and the stroke of our paddles timed to the song of the canoemen, we glided swiftly down the stream.

As the start had been made late in the afternoon, not many miles were passed before it became necessary ta look for a camping place. The banks of the river, formed of boulder clay, were very high, and good landings were scarce. In places the mud on the shore was soft and deep, but about seven o'clock a landing was effected and camp pitched for the night. At this time only two small tents were used, an "A" tent for the canoemen and a wall tent, affording a little more head room, for ourselves. The banks being well wooded with white and black poplar, spruce and birch, plenty of fuel was available. A fire was soon kindled and our even ing meal prepared, in the cooking of which John was given the first opportunity of distinguishing himself. He was assisted by little Michel, who proved to be a very good hand.

Having some bread and biscuits in stock, baking was not yet a necessity. The weather now being fair and cool, and the great pest of camp life, the mosquito, not having yet arrived, our experience at this time was most enjoyable. It was the season of spring, and the sweet perfume of the Balm of Gilead, so abundant in the valley of the Athabasca, permeated the air. The leaves on many of the trees were just opening, so that everywhere the woods pre sented a remarkable freshness and brilliancy of foliage. These were our environments at the commencement of the canoe voyage, and at our first camp on the banks of the Athabasca. How different were they to be at the other end of the journey ! On the morning of the 1st of June camp was called early, and we continued on our way. As we glided down stream a succession of grand views passed, panorama like, before us.

The banks were high, towering in some places three, four or five hundred feet above the river ; here abrupt and precipitous, consisting of cut banks of stratified clay ; in other places more receding, but by a gradual slope rising, beneath dense foliage, to an equal elevation. At this season of the year the water being high and the current swift, we made good time, covering a distance of sixty miles for the first full day's travel. About noon on the 2nd, having reached a narrow part of the river, very remarkable massive walls of ice were found upon either bank, some distance above the water's edge. These walls were of irregular thickness, and from eight to ten feet in height ; but the most striking feature about them was that they presented smooth vertical faces to the river, although built of blocks of every shape and shade from clear crystal to opaque mud.

They extended thus more or less continuously for miles down the river, and had the appearance of great masonry dykes. The explanation of their existence is doubtless as follows : Earlier in the season the narrowness of the channel had caused the river ice to jam and greatly raised the water level. After a time, when the water had reached a certain height and much ice had been crowded up on the shores, the jam had given way and caused the water to rapidly lower to a considerable extent, leaving the ice grounded above a certain line. Thus the material for the wall was deposited, and the work of constructinc and finishing the smooth vertical face was doubtless per formed by the subsequent grinding of the passing jam, which continued to flow in the deeper channel. After the passing of the first freshet, and the formation of these great ice walls, the water had gradually lowered to the level at which we found it.

Late in the afternoon the first rapid of the trip was sighted, but the water being high we had no difficulty in running it. In the evening camp was made on a beautiful sandy beach. During supper-time we had a visit from an old Cree Indian, who came paddling up the river in a little bark canoe. Of course he landed at our camp, for it is a principle strictly observed by every Indian to lose no opportunity of receiving hospitalities, and in accordance with his ideas of propriety, refresh ments were given him. He received them as those of his race usually receive all favors, as no more than his right, and without a smile or the least visible expression of pleasure, seated himself by the fire to enjoy them. On the following morning the great walls of ice, which we had been passing for miles, began to disappear as the channel of the river became wider.

At about 9.30 we reached a place known as the Rapid of the Jolly Fool. It is said to have received its name from the fact that at one time an awkward canoeman lost his life by allowing his canoe to be smashed upon the most conspicuous rock in the rapid. We wasted no time examining it, as it was reported to be an easy one, but keeping near the left bank, headed our little crafts into the rushing waters. We had descended only a short distance, and were turning a bend in the stream, when, a little ahead of us, my brother noticed moving objects on the shore. One of the men said they were wolves, while others maintained they were bears, but my brother getting his rifle in readiness, cut the discussion short by demanding silence. As we swept swiftly down with the current, the objects were seen to be a moose deer and her calf.

Having no fresh meat on hand, these new-found acquaintances were hailed as " well met." Not until our canoes had approached within about one hundred and fifty yards did the old moose, standing in the shallow water near the river bank, appear to notice us. Then, apparently apprehend ing danger, but without alarm, she turned toward the shore, and, followed by her calf, walked up the bank towards the woods. As she did so my brother fired from his canoe, wounding her in the hind-quarters. I then fired, but struck the clay bank above the animal's head, and in attempting to fire again the shell stuck in my rifle, making it impossible for me to reload. Just as the moose was disappearing into the woods my brother fired again, and inflicted a body wound : but in spite of all away went the deer. As our canoes were thrust ashore I succeeded in extracting the shell from my rifle, and leaving some of the men in charge of the canoes, my brother and I gave chase.

The trail of blood was discovered on the leaves, but it led into such a jungle of fallen timber and thicket that it was no easy matter to follow. Scouts were sent out on either side, while with our rifles we followed the trail, running when we were permitted, jumping logs that came in the way, and clambering over or through windfalls that the moose had cleared at a bound. Presently through the leafy thicket we had a glimpse of our prey. Bang went both rifles and away bounded the moose with two more slugs in her body. We were now pretty badly winded, but being anxious to complete the work we had undertaken, the chase was kept up. We knew from the wounds already inflicted that the capture was only a matter of physical endurance on our part, and we were prepared to do our best. More than once the trail was lost in the windfalls and jungle, but at length, getting another side view, I shot her through the heart, bringing the noble beast with a thud to the ground.

Nothing had been seen of the calf since the beginning of the hunt, but going back to the shore to get assistance, I found that the men had captured and made it a prisoner beside the canoes. Taking charge of the captive myself, I sent the men into the woods to skin the deer and " pack " the meat out to shore. The little •calf, which I held by the ear, was very young, and not at all wild. Indeed, though I let go my hold, the little creature did not care to go away, but kept on calling for its mother in such a pitiful way that it made me heartily sorry for having bereft it. After the space of an hour or so my brother and the men returned, well loaded with fresh meat and a fine moose-hide. The meat was placed in sacks and stowed away in the canoes, but the hide being heavy and of little value to us, was placed on a big stone in the sun to dry and await the ownership of the first Indian who should pass that way.

As it was now nearly noon, it was decided to take dinner before re-embarking, and while the cooks were devoting their attention to bannocks and moose-steaks my brother and I were debating as to what we should do with the calf. We had not the heart to deliberately shoot it, but were unable to take it with us alive, as we would like to have done. Through a suggestion of one of the men a happy alternative was decided on. Other moose were doubtless in the vicinity, so that the calling of the calf would likely attract some of them, and in the event of this taking place it was said that the little moose would attach itself to another female. With the hope that such kind fortune would befall it, my brother, after having taken its photograph, led it away by the ear into the shelter of the woods, and there left the little creature to its fate.