Crests from the Ocean World; or, experiences in a voyage to Europe, etc

Front matter

TJHUE TfaWTElR OF X. ©Mi ©K". CRESTS FROM THE OCEAN -WORLD; OR EXPERIENCES IN A VOYAGE TO EUROPE, PRINCIPALLY IN fxutt. 3klgimn, ntiu (Bttglatih, IN 1847 AND 1548 ; COMPRISING sketches in the miniature worlds, PARIS, BRUSSELS, AND LONDON; TOQETHER WITH INCIDENTS BY THE WAT, NOTED SCENERY, NATIONAL CHARACTER AND COSTUME, DELINEATIONS OF SOCIAL LIFE, VIEWS OF THE PRINCIPAL PUBLIC MONUMENTS, CHURCHES, PALACES, GARDENS, GALLERIES OF PAINTINGS, MUSEUMS, LIBRARIES, LITERARY AND BENEV- OLENT INSTITUTIONS, PUBLIC LECTURES, ETC AND WITH THREE NEW FEATURES, VIZ. : FRENCH LIFE ON SHIPBOARD, REVOLUTION OF FEBRUARY IN PARIS, AND A PROFESSIONAL YEIW OF PUBLIC AND PRIVATE SCHOOLS. BY A TRAVELLER AND TEACHER. BOSTON: TAPPAN AND WHITTEMORE 1853. Entered according to Act of Congress, in the year 1853, by ALONZO T R I PP, in the Clerk's office of the District Court of the District of Massachusetts. ANDOYER : ,T. I). FLAGG, Stercotyper and Printer.

Preface

. In presenting this volume to the public, a word or two in explanation of the circumstances which gave it birth may not be deemed inappropriate. The tour which forms its sub ject was the fortune of a respite from active duties, delightfully spent in breathing a freer atmosphere, and seeking to enlarge the horizon of observation and thought. On leaving home, I truly had no intention of attempting a book. I felt rather to be following the onward spirit of self-culture, united to an early, undying love for travelling, than indulging the hope of ever framing out of what I might see, a picture ac ceptable to others. But it has been thought, since my return, that the somewhat original manner of performing the journey, the important nature of several subjects, not usually spoken of by European travellers, that naturally came under my observation, and the thrilling scenes of the Revolution of February, were circumstances to justify the publication.

As much as has been written upon Europe, there remain, I am persuaded, rich fields unexplored ; and who would not encourage learning more of people with whom our relations are becoming every day more intimate ? I have described things as I found them, or, at least, as they appeared to me ; and in recording my opinions, I have not stopped to consider the prejudice of party or sect. The narrative style has in general been followed, as best adapted to interest youth ; and if the book shall theroby gain attrac tiveness to supplant the seductive novel, no healthy-minded reader will, I am sure, regret it. If I have been prolix, it

PREFACE.

. was to impart a more natural and vivid interest to the pic ture of the route. The next thing to travelling for one's self, is to accompany the author in a faithful reproduction of the incidents of the journey. I have often felt, myself, in reading books of travels, that they not unfrequently leave out much of what would be of greatest interest to the reader ; minute incidents, perhaps, but containing the clew to impor tant principles. To discriminate between the puerile and the instructively minute, is the province of a philosophical judg ment. As to the literary character of the book, if not so good as might be wished, it is yet such as circumstances have per mitted. Written in the intervals of arduous and engrossing duties, with my right hand always free for the labors of a sacred trust, inequalities of style would be expected.

It will be further remembered, that even with the gifted, harmony of structure, and force, and beauty of language, except with the practical composer, are the fruit of time and pains. Slight errors in the first edition, should such appear, must be attributed to my having been at a distance during the pro gress of the work through the press. Where my Notes have failed me, I have consulted what I deemed the best authori ties. I desire, in conclusion, to express a lively gratitude toward numerous friends who, since the announcement of the book, have in various ways testified to me their kindly sympathy and encouragement. That it may not disappoint any reason able expectations they may have formed, and at the same time be instrumental in advancing in the community the true, the good, and the beautiful, is the fervent desire of the author. Alonzo Tripp. Village Seminary, Jan. 18, 1853. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

PAot About Leaving — Thoughts on Leaving Home — Glowing Visions of the Old World — Travelling a Passion with the True Teacher 9

Chapter II

Departing from the Beaten Track of Travel, the only way to gain Correct Ideas of Men and Things — The Beauty and Fragrance of the Primrose of Domestic Affection — A Nice Welsh Family — A Fastidious Young Lady 12

Chapter III

Skill of Yankee Captains — Improved Manners of Haekmen in New York City — Appearances in the Streets on Sabbath Morning — My Neat Welsh Hotel — Health-Blooming Landlord and Lady — Smoking and Beer-Drinking in the Bar-Room — A Mental Glance of New York — Unreserved Kindness of the Boarders — A Stroll among the Shipping — Pleasing Reminiscences of Golden Days of Boyhood — Rolling Tide of Immigration — The Yankee always Travels in the First Style 17

Chapter IV

Thanksgiving to the New Englander away — Observance of the Day by the English and Welsh Boarders — The Advantages of going in a French Vessel — Odd and Inspiring Sensations on Sailing from the Wharf— The Pilot and his French 25

Chapter V

Emotions on Losing Sight of Land — Model of the Vessel, a National Beau-Ideal — Comparative Strength of the Vessels of France and England — Fare, and Style of Living on Board — Sociality at Meals — A Portrait of our Three Apprentices sa

Chapter VI

Heavy Weather — The Sailor a Stranger to Fear — The Sublimity of a Dreadful Gale — The. Accurate Reckoning of the Captain — One not the Best Teacher of his own Language — The Intense Desire of gettjng in at the Cruel Sport of Fortune — " 'T is sweet to be Drowned in one's own Waters " — The Thrill of a Narrow Escape . . 41

Chapter VII

Land upon the Old World — A Moody Fit of the Captain— -Sandwich Islanders — Elevating Effects of Ocean Scenery upon the Soul — Sabbaths at Sea — Sports of the Captain — Pig-Butchery — Arrival off Havre — Entering the Port — The French Woman's 1* CONTENTS. VI Charge for Beef-Steak — French Mode of Living— The Prospect from the Heights of Angouville — Mode of Teaching Children — Improvement suggested for American Mothers 51

Chapter VIII

Reception by Mons. P. — American News a small space in European Journals — Notre Dame — Museum — Virgin Mary — Origin of Havre — New Dock — American Ships 69

Chapter IX

Honesty of the French to Travellers — Leaving the City — Scenery through Normandy — Picturesque Costume of the Farmers — Arrival in Rouen — Kindness of Landlord and Lady — Market- Women under my Window — Grandeur of Rouen Cathedral — Richness of Interior — Rollo, the Norman — Church of St. Owen — Statue of Voltaire — Palais de Justice — Maid of Orleans — View from the Cote de St. Catherine — An Historical Mental Picture — The Ancient Port of the City — Supper — View of the City 77

Chapter X

Annoying Trait of French Landlords — Comparative Excellence of Railways in France — Emotions on Arrival in Paris — Hotel du Havre — A Scene with the Landlady — Kindness of Madame David 95

Chapter XI

Shopping in Paris — Fascinating Manners of the Shopwomen — Beautiful Appearance of the Streets — Fashions Different in Paris, London, and New York — Napoleon Column — Garden of the Tuileries — Library of St. Genevieve 103

Chapter XII

Letters from Home — The Effect of Contemplating Aright Noble Public Edifices — Boarding School — Pupils out on Promenade — Arc de Triomph de l'Etoile — Minister of Public Instruction in Paris — Cimetiere du Pe're la Chaise, the Paris of Cemeteries — Vice Rector at the Sarbonne — Pantheon — Description 115

Chapter XIII

Public Schools — Monsieur Lefebre — Order and Precision of the School — Corporal Punishment Prohibited — Mode of Teaching the Alphabet — Drawing — Singing — Advantage of the System — Its Defects — Municipal School Francais — The Principal and his Professor — Plan of the School — Preparatory Department — Notre Dame de Lorette 135

Chapter XIV

Communal School — Character of the School — Private Day and Boarding School by the Freres — Plan of the School — Singing — CONTENTS. VII Municipal School Superior — Arrangement of the Building — Draw ing — Church St. Eustache — Cathedral de Notre Dame, compared with the Rouen Cathedral — Bell — Splendid Interior — Coronation of Napoleon — English Episcopal Church — Muddy Streets — Prac tice of the Ladies — Hotel des Invalids — Exterior — Interior — Military School — Woman among the Lower Orders 147

Chapter XV

Palace of the Louvre — Former Richness in Art — Characteristics of the several Schools of Painters — Sunday at the Louvre — Influence of the Art upon the Masses — Sculpture, Petrified Beauty — Marine Museum — Royal Institution for the Blind — Benefits of the Noble School — Professor-Lecturer of Chemistry — Garden of Plants — Description — Adult and Juvenile Evening Schools 168

Chapter XVI

Palace of the Luxembourg — Rich Paintings — Institution for Deaf- Mutes — Mode of Teaching — Teachers of French — Palace of the Fine Arts — Church of the Madeline — Its Magnificence — Nuns at the Church of St. Germain l'Auxerrois — Rural Restaurant — Madame David — Reunion of Ouvriers — Bishop of Paris 202

Chapter XVII

To Versailles — Chateau — Vastness — Splendid Grounds — Sumptuous Interior — Hotel de Brissac — Condition of Domestics — Normal School 221

Chapter XVIII

Revolution of February — Cause, Reunions — Italian Independence — Just Milieu of Mr. Guizot — More Remote Causes — Louis Phillippe — Stormy Session of the Chamber of Deputies — Evening School for Journeymen and Apprentices — Palais de la Bourse — Fortifications of Paris — Place de la Concorde — Parisian Cafe's — Dancing — Model Office — Theatre Francais — Orchestra — Lectures at the Sarbonne — Monsieur Frank 231

Chapter XIX

Gen. Scott under Arrest — An Ambiguous Character — Parisian Morals — Loveless Marriages — Left-Hand Marriages — Legalized Vice — Hospice d'Accouchement — Hospices des Enfans Trouvers — Causes, etc. — Manufactory for the Crown Tapestry — Palais Royale — Sumptuous Interior — Chapel of St. Ferdinand 256

Chapter XX

The Grand Banquet at Paris — Opinions of the Approaching Crisis — The Gloomy Eve of the Fated Morrow — Sudden Tacking of the Ship of State — Mental Scenes in the Bosom of the Government — CONTENTS. VIII Madame the Duchess of Orleans — Monsieur Guizot — Paris in a Posture of Defence — Thrilling Scenes of the 22d 269

Chapter XXI

Revolution Continued — Suavity and Kindness of Mr. Rush — Chamber of Deputies — M. Guizot in the Tribune — Resignation of M. Guizot — Reading Rooms — Alarm in the Night — Cause — Departure — Appearance of the Streets — Departure from Paris — Amiens — Appearance of Belgium 286

Chapter XXII

Arrival at Brussels — Officials — A Worcester Gentleman — Appearance of the City — Lady of the American Minister — Palais du Congress — Chambers of Parliament — Belgium — Theatres — Resignation of Louis Phillippe, and Flight of the Royal Family — Cafe's and Boulevards — Schools — Hotel de Ville — Palace of Fine Arts 304

Chapter XXIII

Symptoms of Revolution in Belgium — Communal Schools — Cathedral of Gudule — Religious Sects — Lamartine — Marriage in Europe and the United States — Academies — Botanical Garden — Influence of Lamartine — Carnival — Hero-Worship — Shopping — Carpet and Lace Factories 316

Chapter XXIV

Departure for Brussels — Canal Boats — Bruges — Cathedral of Notre Dame — Dietetics — Groups of Musicians — Arrival of a Steamer — Embark for Dover — Dover Heights — Custom House — Smuggling — Dover Castle — Leave for London 340

Chapter XXV

London — Beggars — Tower of London — Dungeon — Crown-Jewels — St. Paul's — Sir Christopher Wren — The Thames Tunnel — River Steamers — Trafalgar Square — Nelson Monument — British Museum — West-End — Buckingham Palace — Westminster Abbey — Parks 357

Chapter XXVI

Hospitality of the English — Gallery of Paintings — Popularity of Queen Victoria — Disaffection — St. Paul's School — Guildhall — Royal Exchange — Bank of England — Bridges — Houses of Parliament — St. James's Park — Prince Albert — Normal and Moral School — East India Docks — Elihu Burritt — Quakers — National Schools — House of Lords — Shopkeepers — Homeward Bound .... 383

Chapter I. About Leaving Thoughts On Leaving Home

— GLOWING VIS- IONS OF THE OLD WORLD — TRAVELLING A PASSION WITH THE TRUE TEACHER. What a crowd of delightful anticipations throng the imagination of an American, as he leaves his home to visit the Old World! It is there that the human race had its origin, and long has it been the grand theatre of its numberless exploits. Treading the classic ground of his forefathers, he can trace the windings of civilization to their source, and mark the different epochs in the world's history. Character may there be seen variously modified by political institutions, and social life, in its endless phases, keeps the traveller constantly alive with renewed interest. It is, too, on the Eastern Continent, to which his thoughts are now turned, that the human mind has received its widest expansion, its fullest development, and the treasures of intellect so profuse, so infinite in form, which meet him at every step, fill his mind with engrossing and profound interest.

But when he comes to the arts — to painting, sculpture, and architecture, he is translated to new worlds of mortal creation, to revel in a sublime existence, which before was but dimly shadowed to his imagination. CRESTS FROM THE OCEAN-WOBLD. If with such feelings the traveller ordinarily looks forward to a tour in Europe, these feelings are doubly intense, when the tourist is a teacher. Accustomed, from the duties of his vocation, to deal with mind ; necessitated to learn its conditions, to trace the causes which have led to certain results in its formation, and especially to know the agencies by which it is successfully moved, he hails, with peculiar pleasure, so grand an opportunity to look abroad among the nations of the earth ; to compare their diverse con dition ; to observe the peculiar traits of individual character ; to note the changes which the hand of time has wrought in the social fabric; to study the modes of thought, feeling and expression which give coloring to ideas ; and, in fine, to take a general sur vey of the basis and structure of society, in connection with the causes which have led to its development.

Not only is the teacher to be conversant with mind anatomically and physiologically, to understand its structure and functions, and the conditions of its healthful growth ; but he must be familiar with the subjects of the mind, the varied forms of knowledge which incite to action its powers, and constitute the woven fabric of its essence. History, science, language, and poetry are but so much of the teacher's stock in trade. Is it surprising, then, that he should long to gather largely and afresh from the primitive source, — that he should pant to tread the very soil hallowed by the most glowing associations, about which he has so often conversed with his pupils, — that he should hasten to view the astonishing and transcendently beautiful combinations of form, in the fine arts, the simple principles of which it has been his daily task to teach, — that he should be thrilled with delight at the prospect of hang ing with ecstasy upon the living tones, palpitating with the heart's keenest emotions, and giving spirit and grace to those languages, the bare forms of which have afforded him so much gratification TRAVELLING A PASSION WITH THE TEACHER. 11 in his daily study, — that his very soul should leap with pleasure as it flies on the wings of imagination to gaze on those sublime scenes in nature, which have lent inspiration to the poet, and moved him to so lofty a flight of song, — sweet numbers which, though stripped of half their glow and beauty, by the absence of the scenes which inspired them, have yet elevated his soul to a loftier existence, and opened to it new sources of purer enjoyment?

Nor is it enough that the teacher should clearly comprehend the mind, and be perfectly familiar with the varied subjects which employ its energies. It is not sufficient that his own mind is an ample storehouse, filled with principle, fact, and apt illustration systematically arranged, ready to flow out at bidding to elucidate every subject as it comes up for investigation. He must possess himself the quintescence, the impalpable of knowledge, obtained not from books, but from large intercourse with men, and free draughts at nature's well. With this, he must permeate the character of his pupils. He must infuse his own spirit into their very being, — distil the dew of his soul into the waters of their life — if he would hope fully to arouse them to lofty purpose, and intense action. Yes, others may delight to travel; but with the true teacher, the artist, the man whose life is in his work, travelling will be a pas sion ; and though he may suppress a sigh, as with tearful eye and saddened heart he thinks of the endearing ties he is called to sun der, and the changes which inexorable time may work in his dear circle or beloved flock, before he is permitted to embrace or greet them again ; yet he will soon rise above these pathetic emotions, his spirit strengthened by the glorious prospect from the fields of intellectual treasure before him, and the increased usefulness which his sacrifices, and sweet and noble toil will give him.

Chapter II. Departing From The Beaten Track Of Travel, The Only Way

TO GAIN CORRECT IDEAS OF MEN AND THINGS — A FAS- TIDIOUS YOUNG LADY — A NICE WELSH FAMILY — THE BEAUTY AND FRAGRANCE OF THE PRIMROSE OF DOMESTIC AFFECTION — THE HEART-BREATHINGS OF THE HOMEWARD-BOUND EMI- GRANT. Boston, Nov. 20th. I called this morning on board of one of the Cunard steamers, lying at East Boston. These are certainly noble ships, and all honor is due to the genius of him who con ceived the grand design of linking the two continents by steam navigation. Yet, he who journeys abroad with an especial view of gaining a more intimate knowledge of men and things, will not hesitate to turn off from the more beaten roads of travel, and pur sue some of the less frequented paths. He will thus gain in de lightful interest what he may lose in pleasurable ease ; and if he is not swept over the route so delectably, he will have this loss fully compensated, by gaining more vivid impressions of nature, and receiving a more enlarged horizon of thought.

Returning, I stepped on board a ship, the only vessel in port, I learned, soon to sail for England or France. I found the accommodations narrow, but neat and comfortable enough for a person of moderate desires; but the captain, who was pacing the wharf in all the dignity of his profession, replied so curtly to my in quiries, and with an air so unmistakable to an eye the least expe- DEPARTING FROM THE BEATEN TRACK. 13 rienced in nautical character, that I bid him good morning at once, resolved to look farther, for the means of a pleasant transit across the Atlantic. A winter passage with a morose captain, was by no means to be ventured upon. The officers of the packet-ships acquire by habit a civil and obliging behavior toward passengers, even when those qualities are not a part of their natural disposition ; but the captain of a transient ship is influenced by no peculiar motives to induce him to deviate from his ordinary line of conduct.

Indeed, his position on board, in rank above all others, and his relation to the ship's company, clothed with almost arbitrary power, called to govern men accustomed to despotic rule, who would frequently take undue advantage of a mild discipline, he acquires, unconsciously to himself, an imperious temper and stern manner of action, which, when they happen to be united with a naturally passionate and reckless disposition, combine to render him not altogether a most agreeable social companion for a solitary sea voyage. New York, Nov. 21st. -Left Boston last evening, in the six o'clock train, to come by the way of Stonington. This route is preferred, I believe, to that by the way of Fall River, by the more timid class of passengers, as being safer at this season, — the distance by water being considerably less.

The Fall River route, however, by the superior boats on the sound, the liberality of the Company, and gentlemanly and polite attentions of the of ficers on the whole route, has justly won the favor of the public ; and when we were aroused from our warm slumbers, and has tened into the cold midnight air, to exchange, first from the boat to the cars, then to the boat, then again to the cars, and finally to the boat, we began to feel that we had paid dearly for our choice of routes. An unusually large number of passengers were along with us ; ■2 and, in changing from the boat to the cars, there were the usual tumultuous and hurried scenes exhibited, with more or less con fusion ; some bustling for bits of luggage, or toting or dragging pieces along with them, to the annoyance of their neighbors ; others solicitous for their female companions, who were scamper ing to meet them, or being half pulled along through the dark, or dimly-lighted way ; or some father hastily uniting the members of his group, and, with many words of encouragement and caution, uttered in quickening and paternal tones, sees them safely in the right car.

The manner and expression of the company were as varied, too, as their character. A few, at the given sig nal, snatch their valises or carpet-bags, and press right on through the crowd, jostling any that may happen to be in their way. Some others are more deliberate in their movements, and more mindful of the rights of their neighbors ; a large number, apparently unused to travelling, or unacquainted with the route, appear anxious — a little disconcerted — put questions to any one, for the resolving of their doubts, and then follow on with the moving tide, sometimes hastening, then retarding their movements ; while a small number, adepts in travelling, appear quite at home ; and by their loudly repeated commands to the waiters, and dignified movements, seem desirous to attract attention to their vast superiority in matters pertaining to travel.

I could not but notice a delicately beautiful young lady, just be fore me, exquisitely dressed, and leaning on the arm of her brother. She was fainting, she said, of thirst ; and would give a kingdom for a single draught of cold water. A sturdy and generous hand quickly extended her some, in a tin vessel. She turned away with an air of disgust ; she could not bear to allay even her intolerable thirst from a cup that had been drunk out of by others. A half dozen voices eagerly assured her that the A NICE WELSH FAMILY. 15 cup was intact, and pressed her to partake. She would not be lieve them, and passed on with the crowd, bearing an expression of over-squeamishness, that caused a suppressed tittering among the several witnesses of the act. Two or three foreigners near, looked at each other in surprise ; and doubtless noted the incident, as material for future use.

This little trait, of course, forms no fair illustration of American female character ; but it may justly be feared, that among the many excellent qualities of our lovely countrywomen, a false delicacy in matters of form, too often appears, as a blemish. Travelling alone, on a long journey, the mind, freed from the engrossing details of petty affairs, observes narrowly, noticing in cidents that might escape the attention at other times. Near me, in the cars, was an interesting group, whose peculiar accent be trayed them of English origin. Their kindly nature, evinced in the most trivial act for each other's comfort, and the deep affec tion, modulating the very tones of their voice, linking them in a sweet bond of family union, completely charmed me. How beautiful the flower of love that springs up in the bosom of an affectionate family !

It not only delights the eye, but fills the very air you breathe, with fragrance. Seeking the first opportunity for an acquaintance, I learned that they were Welsh, and had been residing in Canada, where the father, employed by the Eng lish government in making surveys of the unexplored territories of the British crown, had so improved his former condition, as to enable him to revisit the scenes of his youth, and to take over with them to the New World, some of their relatives. Undoubt edly, the bright anticipation of so soon seeing Old England, and embracing their long-separated friends, had enlivened their hearts, and lent an unusual warmth and glow to their expression. How keen the pleasure of the emigrant, as, improved in worldly prospects, he turns his steps toward the dear home of his fathers !

With some of his hard-earned wealth, he gilds the declining years of his aged parents, in ameliorating their physical condition — while he staggers their imagination with recounting the mar vels of the New World ; and overwhelms their hearts with pater nal joy, as he presents for a blessing the youthful scions that have sprung up to him, amidst the fertile lands of the distant West. The political economist, in estimating the advantages that have resulted to the world, by the discovery of America by Co lumbus, may well take into the account this element of the immi grant's improved condition.

Chapter III. Skill Of Yankee Captains

— IMPROVED MANNERS OF HACK- MEN IN NEW YORK CITY" — APPEARANCES IN THE STREETS ON SABBATH MORNING — MY NEAT WELSH HOTEL — HEALTH- BLOOMING LANDLORD AND LADY — SMOKING AND BEER- DRINKING IN THE BAR-ROOM — ■ A MENTAL GLANCE OF NEW YORK — UNRESERVED KINDNESS OF THE BOARDERS — A STROLL AMONG THE SHIPPING — PLEASING REMINISCENCES OF GOLDEN DAYS OF BOYHOOD — ROLLING TIDE OF IMMIGRATION — THE YANKEE ALWAYS TRAVELS IN THE FIRST STY'LE. Approaching the city, the beautiful scenery that skirts the East river, was shut out from our view, by the dense mist, occasioned by the change of temperature in the air during the night, that hung over the rippled bosom of the stream, through which we were noiselessly gliding with the speed of an arrow ; while the raw morning air, and the feeling of loneliness that involuntarily creeps over one, on entering a new place, kept most of us within the cabins. i Now the engine ceases ; all the passengers crowd upon the deck ; there are one or two backward turns, some little manœu vreing, when our floating palace shoots in by the pier, directly to the spot marked out for her, with a precision and ease, that mark the dexterity of our Yankee captains, in whatever craft they un dertake to manage.

Then comes the bustling of passengers, accompanied with the confused noise of the cabmen, who almost 2* deafen you with their repeated importunities for your luggage. This is not a little embarrassing to those who travel for the fii^t time, and annoying enough to every one. In justice, it must be observed, in passing, that this feature of travelling life has mate rially improved in the State of New York, within a few years. The time was, when it had become absolutely intolerable ; when passengers approached New York or Albany with feelings akin to those of seamen, when passing through the famous Straits of Caraccas, at the time when the buccaneer held sway in those seas. Accepting the invitation of my new acquaintance, to take rooms at the hotel kept by a friend of his, in Walker street, I leisurely strolled along thither, with my valise in hand.

On leaving the pier, what was my surprise ! It being Sabbath morning, the for eign population were out ; and the German and the French languages greeted my ear with as much frequency as my own ; and then so densely thronged were all the streets, that I should really have supposed myself in London, rather than in New York, as I formerly knew it. And here let me say, for the benefit of those who intend travelling abroad, and who would go in a simple style, and be free from the trouble and expense of looking after, and removing much luggage, that it is better in all respects to leave your trunks and extra suits at home. A few changes of linen, and an extra coat, with the articles of toilet, all of which can be put into a valise, will answer all the purposes of comfortable travelling. In any of the cities, and especially in those of Europe, articles of clothing can always be purchased, when needed, with the advantage of being in the latest style ; while the anxiety and trouble avoided, and the expense saved, which would be something of an item in a long journey, are really of consid erable importance.