Japan, the Amoor, and the Pacific; with notices of other places comprised in a voyage of circumnavigation in the Imperial Russian Corvette 'Rynda,' in 1858-1860. With ... illustrations

Preface

. In the following pages the Author has endeavoured to depict the scenes and incidents of an interesting voyage of circumnavigation, as well as the present state of all those countries he visited, among which two are but little known as yet ; viz. Japan, and the territory lately ceded to Russia at the mouth of the Amoor. Although several works have been already pub lished lately on the former country, still the Author hopes that his account of a residence of more than three months, every day of which he was moving among the people, may add yet a little more know ledge to the public concerning that most interesting country and its inhabitants. With regard to the Russian settlements at the mouth of the Amoor, the Author was the first English man who ever landed there. All his remarks and opinions are those of an unbiassed mind wishing to a VI

PREFACE.

. describe what really is ; and the information he offers is as complete as his means of observation and research allowed. In extenuation of any slight errors, the Author must beg indulgence by stating that the whole work was written when in a state of constant locomotion, and that he was thousands of miles distant at the time of its going through the press. Alexandretta, Syria, January, 1861. PAGE 1 1-2 28 37 CONTENTS

Chapter I

Russian Squadron — Voyage to Teneriffe — Santa Cruz — Cape Verde Islands — Porto Grande — Rio Janeiro — Entry into the Bay — Immigration — Environs of City — Petropolis — Hospital and French Sœurs de Charite — Polka Fever — Departure — Simon's Bay

Chapter II

Simon's Bay — Boad to Cape Town — Gardens, Museum — S. E. -winds ofthe Cape — Constantia and its Wines — Ascent of Table Mountain — Dutch uersws English — Peculiarities of Population — A Ball — Trip into the interior — Horses — The Paarl — Its Vineyards — Monkeys — Aspect of Country — Baine's Kloof — A fortunate Emigrant — Animals and Sporting — Mode of Travelling in Colony — Stellenbosch — Excitement of Dutch Boers about Railway — A Field for Emigration

Chapter III

Departure from Simon's Bay — Mew Bay — A Tropical Forest — Anger — Batavia — Population — Municipal Police of Malays and Chinese — Stroll by Night in Batavia — Gambling — Opium — Revenue from latter — Banca Straits — Tin Mines — Singapore versus Batavia — A Buddhist Temple — Mr. Whampoa, a Chinese Merchant — The Human Family at Singapore — A Stroll through Streets ; Barbers, Jewel Dealers, Tailors and others — Leave Singapore

Chapter IV

Manilla — City of Manilla — Population — " Tributo," — Government — How time is spent in ManiUa — The Tagals ; their Houses, Dress, Women, Amusements, &c. — A Fete of the Pueblo — Marriage Customs — Music — Cock-Fighting — A Cock-Pit — Gambling — Cigar Manufactories — A few Particulars about the Tobacco Cultivation and Manufacture — Produce of the Country — Tagal Manufactures — Commerce — Enterprise — Mines and Minerals — Hong Kong — Unpleasant Circumstance — Shanghai . . . . contents. VIII

Chapter V. Page

Leave Shanghai — Approach to Nangasaki — Fishing Boats — Visit of Sub- Governor on board — Questions and Curiosity — The Russian frigate Ascolde— A Buddhist Temple— Life in Japan— Treatment of Japanese by Foreigners — Popularity of Russians — The Bonzes, and their troubles— Language — Capability of Japanese in learning —Nangasaki ; its Temples, Tea Houses, &c. — Contrast with former visitors — Inhabitants — Foreign Commerce in 1859 — Exports — Porcelain — The Tea Houses and Gardens; their Inmates and Visitors — Photographing — A Comical Scene and a Japanese Custom — Dezima; Honesty of Japanese — Departure 55

Chapter VI

Sketch of Japan Empire— First Knowledge of it — Marco Polo- Francois Xavier in Kagosaki — The Portuguese Jesuits and Merchants — Spanish Intercourse — Taikosama — Proscription of Christian Religion — Dutch Intercourse — English in Japan — Trade, Persecution, and Rivalry of Europeans — Massacre of Simabara — Portuguese and Spaniards expelled — Dutch alone: their Treatment and Servility — Incorporated into the Spy System — Intercourse of China and Japan — Attempts to renew Relations during the last fifty Years— Different Treaties, and necessity for re-making altogether— Geographical and Political description of Empire — The Eight Castes of Japan Society — Men and Women ; their Appearance, Dress, Customs, &c. — Marriage and Polygamy — Punishments and Suicide — Sintooism — Buddhism — Education — Language — Literature — Industry, Arts and Science — Productions of Land — Food — Houses — Manner of Sleeping — Simplicity of Dress and Habits — Gardens — Medicine and Mechanics — Expectations formed of Japan — Trade formerly and at present — Utility of Ports in Japan to Whalers and other Ships. 71

Chapter VII

Hakodadi — Situation Important — Town and Neighbourhood — Visit of Governor — Breakfast— Japanese Swords — The Governor's Suite — A Sea-God's Temple, and the Rape of the God — Whalers and Whalemen — New Granada — Flag in Japan — Excursions around Hakodadi — Rural Temples — A Water Mill — Japanese Sportsmen— Fete — Temples — Bonzes and their Flocks — Devotees — Graveyards — Funeral — Public Bathing — The Russian Consul— The American Consul — Disgraceful Scene — Incendiary Fire in Dockyard — Visit to Lead Mines — A Yankee-German and bis Adventures — Aspect of Country in Yeso — Interior of Mine, and Manner of Working — Effect of Spy System — Smelting of Ore — A Country Inn — Public Dinner — Adventure with a Bonze and a Farmer — Japanese Gilpin — Tea Gardens — A Porcelain Manufactury — Arrival of Count Mouravief-Amursky — Japanese Currency and Panic — Unpleasant Results contents. IX

Chapter VIII. Page

Departure from Hakodadi — Fishing — A storm — Bay of Yedo — Kanagawa and Yokahama — Trade — Deceit and unwillingness in trading — Writing on fans — Cranes — Tea Houses and their Inmates — Yedo; appearance from the Bay — Forts — Japanese Navy — Ship-building — Visit of Governor of Yedo — Dilemmas of Japanese Officials — Making Treaties with Foreign Powers — Preparations for resistance — Discord among the Ruling Powers . . . .136

Chapter IX

Landing in Yedo — The Temple Dai-ghoo-ghee — Carpenters — Removal of the Bonzes — Fire-proof safes for Valuables — Assault on Russian Officers — Stroll into the City — Manner of Buying — A ride through Yedo — Passage of a Great Man — Shops — Wards and Wardens — Curiosity and crowding of People — The two-sworded Boy — Objects of Curiosity — Landing and reception of Count Muravief— A Cyclone in Yedo — Murder of Russian Officer and Sailor — Causes and Consequence — Prevarication and probable Connivance of Authorities — Funeral — Remarks on the Murder — Correspondence with Government — Probable Consequences of this Murder — Americans in Japan .151

Chapter X

Return to Yedo — Manner of Fishing — Ride through Yedo to the Village of Oodzee — Visitors and their Escort — Moveable Houses and Shops — Tea House at Oodzee — A universal Pastime— Walks in the City — Wardens — Dangerous Streets — Guard Houses — Houses of Feudal Princes — Temples — Christianity in Japan — Missionaries, and their probable Success — Shopping — Strolls — Population estimated — Life in the Temple — Sketch of the Inmates, &c. — Anecdotes — Result of Mission — Departure from Yedo — Storms and Winds on Niphon Coast — Straits of T'zugar — Great Japanese Feast — Processions, &c. — Ainos or Hairy Kuriles — Pubbc Music and Dancing 177

Chapter XI

Departure from' Hakodadi — -T'zugar Straits — Matsmai — Gulf of Tartary — De Castries Bay — Misfortunes of Russian Ships during War — Incidents of that time — The Diana Frigate — The Yacht America — Passage through the Amoor Liman, or Gulf— On a Sand Bank — Difficulty of Navigation — Sagalien Island — A character, and his Adventures — Get off the Bank — Ghelak Settlements — Mouth of the Amoor — Arrival at Nicholaivsk. X CONTENTS.

Chapter XII. Page

Rise and Progress of Nicholaivsk— Climate — Buildings — Commerce — American and Amoor Companies — Captain Vries and the Navigation of the River — Visit to Ghelak Village — Dogs and Bears — How Bears are worshipped — Natives' Manner of Living — Port of Nicholaivsk — Amusements, Dogs and Sledging — A Ball — The Vosmerka and Bear Dance — Departure — De Castries Bay — A Wreck — Shooting Excursion — Siberian Forests, Animals and Hunting — Arrival of Ships from Europe — Departure . . .218

Chapter XIII

Russian Colonies of the Amoor — Description — Boundaries — Island of Sagalien — Bays on the Coast — Usuri River — Capabilities of Country — Cossacks and their Difficulties — Difficulties of Colonization — Future of Nicholaivsk — Remarks on former Writings about this Country — Utility of these Colonies to Russia — Return to Hakodadi — English and French Consul — Disputes with Governor — Farewell to Japan 238

Chapter XIV

Gale — Arrival in St. Francisco — The Town and its Inhabitants — Mixture of Nationalities — Newspapers — Theatres — Fast Living of Americans in California — Editors — Visitors on Board — The Rowdies and the Irish — Dark Side of St. Francisco — Fire Companies—Suggested introduction into England — Public Honours — Popular Feeling ... '250

Chapter XV

American Steamboat — Make Acquaintances on board — Dinner — Sacramento — The City of the Plain — A civil General — Dockyard in Mare Island — Appearance of Mining Land in California — Placerville, or Hang Town — Mining Districts — Modes of Mining formerly and now — Mining Life — Trough Washing and Hydraulic Mining — Quartz — Appearance of Country around Mines — Search of a Miner for "Claims" — Hotels — Carston Valley Mines — Visit to different Claims — An Intelligent Miner — First Discovery of Gold — Return to Sacramento — American River — All not Gold that ghtters — Indians — A Conversation with Enlightened Americans — Scenes on Steamboat — A Model Editor for California — Sail for Hawaian Islands CONTENTS.

Chapter XVI. Page

Approach to Honolulu— Description of Town — Schools— Honolulu at Night— The Hula-hula — The Whaling Seasons— Constitution- Kanakas— Population— Costume— Vices of Natives— Murders by Foreigners— A Meli, or Native Chant— Newspapers— A Tragedy in High Life— Official Visit to the King— His Palace and Guards —Ministers— Insignia of Hawaian Royalty — Hon. Mr. Wylie— Saturday in Honolulu — Sunday — A Remark .... 292 CHAPTER XVn. A Tour round Oahu — Kekuanoa and his Daughter— Valley of Nuuanu — The Pali — Panorama— A Native Hut and its Inmates — Kanaka Dinner— Dwellings of Natives— Manner of Eating— Pet Animals— A Night in a Hut— Griding Sketch of Country and Inhabitants — A Chinese Emigrant — Rest in a Kanaka Hut, and a Scene of Morals— Progress of South Sea Islands in Christianity and Civilization — Vices — Departure from Kanaka Hut — An English Judge— Cattle — Exportation of Hides— Animals — District of Waialua — Ride to Ewa— Ewa — A Kanaka Family — Kalo, and Manner of preparing Poi— Remarks on the Tour — Leave Honolulu — Karakoa Bay — Lazaref Island 308

Chapter XVIII

Arrival at Island of Tahiti— French Protectorate— A good Thing for the Islands — Sketch of Tahiti— Divisions— Districts— Native Government — Laws — Commerce — Produce of Island— Revenue — Papeete— Queen Pomare — French Newspaper— Its Character . 335

Chapter XIX

A Tour round Tahiti— Nature versus Art— Aspect of Western Side of Island— Houses— Pictures by the Way— A Remarkable Cavern School-houses — Protestantism— Departure of Missionaries — Public Instruction— Dress— District of Papara— French Soldiers Traffic in Spirits — Night in the South Sea— Catholic Priests- European Settlers— Cultivation of Vanilla— Lake of Vaihiria— Outlet of Lake Subterraneous —Bishop Jaussens— Papoari— A Night in the Minister's Hut— An Outcast— Road to Taravoa — Misfortunes by the Way— Fort of Taravoa— The French Officer in Command— Prisoners: a Naughty Pair— Windward Side of Tahiti— Matavia Bay and its Souvenirs— Point Venus— A Native Family— Return to Papeete CONTENTS.

Chapter XX. Face

Island of Moria, or Eimeo — Desertions — The King, Minister, aud Admiral on Board — Their Distinguished Qualities — Bay of Opunopu — Falling away of Population and Industry — District of Papetoai — An Old Missionary — Voyage Southward — Winds of high Southern Latitudes — Mercy Bay — Shipwrecks — Magellan Straits — Bay of Pleya Parda — Chilian Settlement at Punta Arena, or Sandy Point — Climate — Patagonians — Aspect of Shores in Strait — Pampas — GregoryBay — Possession Bay — Current of S. Atlantic Ocean — A Pampero 372

Chapter XXI

Montevideo — Town — Ladies — Society — Education in Buenos Ayres and Monte Video — City of Buenos Ayres — Rivalled by Monte Video — Aspect of City — Rides in the Vicinity — Tbe Saladeras and Mataderas — Destruction of Horses — Commerce of Hides, &c. — Election of President — Markets — The Gaucho — Population — Foreigners — Climate — Viente Norte— The Pampero — -Mortality of Children — Diseases — Progress of Provinces during Peace . 381 ILLUSTRATIONS. House at Yedo To face Title. View of Kanagawa . . . . . . „ p. 138 View of Yakuama „ p. 141 View of Yedo „ p. 145 Cemetery of the Nobles and Princes at Yedo . . „ p. 149 Emperor's Sporting Quarters at Odji ... „ p. 178 Public Gardens at Odji „ p. 180 Emperor's Temple at Yedo „ p. AMOOK, AND THE PACIFIC.

Chapter I

Russian Squadron — Voyage to Teneriffe — Santa Cruz — Cape Verde Islands — Porto Grande— Rio Janeiro — Entry into tho Bay — Immigration — Environs of City — Petropolis — Hospital and French Sœurs de Ckarito — Polka Fever — Departure — Simon's Bay. In September, 1858, an offer was suddenly made me to undertake a voyage round the world. As I am excessively fond of travelling, though my experience of travel had been as yet only that of a student wandering through my own country, France, and Ger many, I accepted the proposal with pleasure. And the desire of making such a voyage was increased, when I heard that it was to be on board a Russian ship of war. There was not only the opportunity of seeing strange lands and their peoples, but the facility of studying a class of men almost strangers to us, during the intervening passages at sea.

Two days only were allowed me to prepare for a voyage of two years ; but what is not possible in our land of railways, telegraphs, and sewing machines ? The second night, therefore, I was on the road to Paris ; the third day passing through Brittany on my way to Brest. On my arrival there I was most kindly received by Commodore Popoff, the Commander of the little Russian Squadron, and by him introduced on board his ship, the Rynda, which was to be my home for more than two years. Two black-looking corvettes, called the Rynda and Gudin, mounting each 11 guns, and a clipper gunboat, called the Opritchnik, com prised the squadron.* Their destination was the Amoor River ; but as the Commander had full liberty to touch at any ports he pleased, and as he was himself a curious and enterprising man, the voyage promised to be very interesting.

These corvettes, two of seven, all similar, had been constructed in great haste at St. Petersburg during the war. The gun-boat was also one of a number which had been built in the White Sea, at Archangel. The officers on board, mostly very young men, were of good family, well-educated and gentlemanly fellows; and for their uniform kindness and attention to mo throughout the voyage, I must ever remember them with pleasure. Like myself, nobody on board had ever made a similar voyage, so that the charm of novelty exercised the same influence on all. * The words Rynda and Gudin are names of officers formerly about the old Muscovite Court. Opritchnik, one of the Opritchnina, or body-guard of Ivan Vasilevitch, surnamed the Terrible. This guard consisted of one thousand men, chosen from the nobility.

They were the terror of the people. From their saddles hung dogs' heads and a broom of twigs, to show that their office was to bite the enemies of their master, and to sweep them away. TENERIFFE. We left Brest a few days after my arrival, and steamed out of the celebrated Goulct, or mouth of the harbour of Brest, towards which, in former years, so many anxious eyes of English naval commanders were turned, in expectation of the French Fleet issuing therefrom. No sooner were we well out at sea than a heavy gale of wind initiated me into the pleasures of a maritime life. Adverse winds prolonged our voyage southward as far as the Canary Islands. When about 120 miles from Teneriffe,* the remarkable peak of that island rose above the horizon. Accompanying the commodore on board the gun-boat, we steamed towards it ; the two corvettes continuing their route to a given ren dezvous further south.

All the next day we had the magnificent cone in view, sometimes wholly visible, sometimes only its summit appearing above the girdle of clouds which encircled the whole island. At night we lay to off the north-east point, and at dawn skirted its eastern shores, covered with rugged lava hills, their summits only clothed with forests of the Canary pine, and their valleys half concealing a few huts, a vine yard, or a verdant patch of garden. On approaching Santa Cruz, a pilot came out, and brought us to anchor before that town. No sooner were we on shore, than a crowd of beggars surrounded us, not timidly holding out the hand for charity, but clamouring for it with sturdy impor tunity. When clear of these for a time, we mounted on horseback, and examined the town and environs. The nature of the Canary Islands strikes the newly - * It is visible in very clear weather, at a radius of 150 sea miles. 1—2 arrived European the more, as he there obtains his first view of tropical vegetation, the palm, the cactus, and the aloe.

The town is surrounded by pretty gar dens of oranges, citrons, &c, but is otherwise unin teresting. It is necessary to explore the interior of the island, the vicinity of the peak, and the small inland towns, in order to have seen the beauties of Teneriffe. I wonder that English tourists do not oftener visit the Canary Islands. They are only a week's steaming from England, and the beauties of nature, and the originality of the people, would well repay a visit. Leaving Santa Cruz, we steamed to where the two other ships were lying-to for us, and then together continued the voyage, arriving at Porto Grande, Island of St. Vincent, on the 17th November. Porto Grande is the best harbour in the Cape Verde Islands, being completely sheltered from the west by the Island of St. Antonio. It is the great coaling station in the Atlantic, and the least unhealthy spot in all the islands.

The population consists of some hundreds of negroes and mulattoes, and a few black soldiers, the whole under a Portuguese governor. The scene around is miserably desolate, presenting only volcanic cones of ashes and lava, with a few cacti and euphorbiæ scattered here and there. Behind the village is a graveyard, the broken-down entrance to which is surmounted by the American eagle. Within, the mounds were numerous, and the inscriptions told us that the dead had all been victims to African fever : they were mostly American and English seamen. The grave of one, a captain in the English navy, was SMELLING LAND. covered with an old chest, on which were rudely written his name and fate. We left Porto Grande with the trade wind, which just began to be felt. On the 28th we crossed the Line, in longitude 28° W., and the event was celebrated by a fete among the officers, given by the commodore, and by divers amusements among the men.

The usual weather — rain, thunder, and lightning — had been experienced in the equatorial belt of calms, but we soon steamed through this, and met the south-east trade wind. On Wednesday, 8th December, at dawn, Cape Frio was in sight, bearing N.N.W. about thirty miles. It was on the Isle of Frio that his Majesty's frigate Thetis, laden with treasure, was wrecked on the 5th of December, 1830 : a great part of the money was, however, recovered during the following year. With what pleasure is the first sight of land hailed by those who, for long, tedious weeks have had nothing but the eye-wearying features of water and sky before them ! With what desire did we not look forward to many a ramble through this garden of nature we were about to visit ! The first lieutenant at the masthead declared he had sniffed the delicious perfume of the herbs and flowers borne to him on the dying morning breeze.

I followed his example, and went aloft, but although I tried hard to smell the scented gale, the freshness of the morning had already passed, and with it the perfume of the flowers from the land. It is said, however, that under favourable circumstances, the land has been smelt long before the eye perceived it. Our entry into the harbour of Rio was accompanied by mist and rain, so that the beautiful scenery was lost upon us. The Sugar Loaf was veiled in mist : we just caught sight of the fort of Santa Cruz and its lowered flag, as we passed abreast. As soon as our little corvette had thundered forth its twenty-one guns, and Fort Vilganhon had returned the compli ment, we were passing alongside the French Admiral, whose band struck up the Russian national air. With heads uncovered, as in duty bound, and hair dripping with rain, we stood returning the salutes of the officers on the quarter-deck, who, as long as we were un covered, remained the same, until we had swept by.

No sooner had the French Admiral finished, than the Old Cumberland, the English Admiral's ship, took up the strain, and gave us once again the whole melody. I must confess here that the music on board the French frigate was vastly superior to that of the two decker English. A few minutes more and the anchors were let go ; the chain cable rattled through the hawse holes, and we found ourselves moored a hundred yards from the English Admiral. The vast empire of Brazil, with an area of 6,000,000 of square miles, possesses only a population of 8,000,000, including 20*000 colonists of different nations, and about the same number of the abori gines, half reclaimed from their savage state, but prone to relapse into it whenever they find an opportunity. They are perishing visibly, and must soon become extinct.

It strikes one with pity towards the owners of this magnificent country, to see large tracts of fertile land in the immediate vicinity of Rio without the least BRAZIL. cultivation. In many of the numerous islands of the bay which I visited, where the richest vegetation and the most beautiful flowers springing at once from the granite -fringed surface of the water proclaimed tho fertility of the soil, a few square feet only were culti vated; the rest was the home of the snake and the lizard. Were such a country in other hands, how different would be the result. Yet here it can hardly be otherwise ; the abolition of the slave-trade paralyzed what little energy there was: the abolition of slavery would entirely ruin the country. Free colonization must first take place on a large scale ; instead of twenty thousand, there must be twenty millions : and to bring this to pass, the laws relating to immigrants must first be changed ; all religions must be tolerated, and security given against the agents of emigration and their fraudulent practices ; then may Brazil offer a home and abundance to the overstocked and laborious populations of Europe.* In Rio de Janeiro, and throughout Brazil generally, every article of necessity or fancy is exorbitantly dear ; * Land is remarkably cheap in Brazil.

According to an official document published in 1850, commissioners were appointed for the sale of public lands at prices varying from Is. Gd. to 5s. 6rf. per acre, according to the position and fertility of the land. Labour being paid very high, many persons have amassed money enough to become proprietors of land to some extent. The great drawbacks are, the heat of the climate, the absence of roads to any extent into the interior, and the necessity of sending the produce for export to certain ports. The first may be modified by care and temperate habits ; the latter two causes they are taking some steps to remove. For the well-being of the country every means should be taken to keep up a stream of immigration ; as it is known that negroes, the present workers of the soil, are not reproduced, and the slave treaty prohibits fresh supplies. and I am sorry to remark that the stranger must, in addition, submit to the dishonesty of the dealer, who will ask him double the price that a native would pay.

The excessive dearness of Rio falls very hard on people of small means just arrived from Europe ; and I heard several complaints from officers of the navy, who receive only their ordinary pay, while most other services allow double to the crews on this station. A mil reis (about half-a-crown) has the relative value in regard to what it can purchase that sixpence has in England. There is nothing particularly worthy of notice in the city itself. The palace is a mean building ; the churches are not to be looked at after those of Spain, Belgium, and France. In the neighbourhood, however, are some interesting rides, provided there has not been so much rain as to make the roads knee-deep in mud. The Corcovada and Gavia mountains are worth visit ing, as is also the Botanic Garden, with its beautiful avenue of palms, consisting of about one hundred trees, which has at least the effect of great novelty to a European eye.

The opposite side of the bay, the village of St. Domingo, and, above all, some of the numerous islets with which the bay is dotted, ought to be visited. These latter are perfect gardens of nature. From the verge 'of the water, all up their granite-ribbed sides, spring the huge-leaved cactus and aloe ; a thousand gay flowers of different hues twine and wreathe round the thick undergrowth, and the air is loaded with the perfume of the herbs, which grow knee deep over the surface. Petropolis, a German colony, the summer residence RIO AND ITS ENVIRONS. 9 of the court, the ambassadors, and the chief men of Rio, is approached by steamboat, rail, and carriage. It is picturesquely situated some distance up in the mountains, in a cool and refreshing atmosphere. A visit was made there to call upon the Russian ambassador, whoso post cannot be an enviable one.

His life must be one of ennui a la mort, without even the relief of sporting, unless a long and fatiguing journey be made into the interior. Again, the selfish exclusiveness of the Bra zilians does not tend to enliven a prolonged stay in the country. Not that they are wanting in formal hospitality, but their reception of strangers forms a striking contrast with what the traveller may expe rience in the towns of the Argentine Republics. One of my first visits to public buildings was paid to the " Misericordia." This excellent establishment may bear comparison with the best of our European hospitals. Here, as in most other spots in the wide wide world, where humanity lies suffering and disabled, are found those excellent creatures, the Sœurs de St. Vincent de Paul. Our doctor and myself conversed for some time with the lady principal, and with the still young sœur who showed us round the wards.

This latter was an accomplished person. She spoke English and German very well, and her whole manner bespoke a lady of no inferiorstation. We were talking to her of the probability of any of us being under her care, when the report of cannon from the bay inter rupted our conversation. Little did we think that at that very moment one of our own poor fellows was being blown into the water from a gun he was loading. Such was, however, the case, as we learned a few moments after leaving. The French Admiral was leaving the Gudin. The twelfth gun, not properly stopped at the vent, when being sponged, exploded, and shattered the arm of the poor fellow (one of the best men, as is usually the case) who was loading it. He was immediately removed to the hospital, had his arm amputated, and in ten days — thanks to the care bestowed on him — was removed on board previous to our sailing.

This accident caused a second and third visit to the Miscricordia. In the different wards, whites and blacks, slaves and free, were side by side ; among them several English and American sailors — victims of their own imprudence perhaps — in the delirium of intermittent fever. One, an English sailor, the Sister told me, was the nuisance of the whole ward. While I was there, he was cursing and swearing, and complaining in incoherent phrases that they gave him sweet water instead of grog ; but the good creature who attended him excused his rough ness and brutality, and ascribed it all to the paroxysm of fever. If she can boast of nothing else, Rio may be proud of her Misericordia. The yellow fever was not raging during our stay, and the hospital appointed for the victims of that malady was empty.