Matthew Flinders; or, How we have Australia. Being the true story of Captain Flinders' explorations and adventures, etc

Front matter

MATTHEW FLINDERS OB HOW WE HAVE AUSTRALIA To the Memory of CAPTAIN FLINDERS WHOSE OWN NARRATIVE HAS SUPPLIED THE MAIN INCIDENTS OF THIS BOOK A DASH FOR FRESH WATER. Frontispiece. See page 106. MATTHEW FLINDERS OB HOW WE HAYE AUSTRALIA BEING THE TRUE STORY OF CAPTAIN FLINDERS' EXPLORATIONS AND ADVENTURES LY ROBERT THYNNE AUTHOR OF "THE STORY OF AUSTRALIAN EXPLORATION" WITH NINE ILLUSTRATIONS AND A CHART LONDON JOHN HOGG, 13 PATERNOSTER ROW [AU rights reserved] OHAKT SHOWING THE COURSE OF THE EXPEDITION V PREFATORY

Introduction

As the following narrative takes the form of a story by an eye-witness, it has been suggested that something should be said here concerning the previous career of our real hero, Captain Matthew Flinders. In fact, I cannot do better than trace my own humble, and, so to speak, mechanical, efforts in the task. When first I disembarked on "the Wharf" at Melbourne, I found myself in " Flinders Street," a frontage of bonded warehouses, wool stores, and shipping offices on one side, and the Yarra Yarra on the other. I had no previous know ledge why it should be so called. Those I asked could afford me no information. Oral tradition had it that he entered, and mapped, the large estuary which was to be Port Phillip, and which was to lead to the Melbourne which now is — and that was about all. Of which incident, more in its proper place.

But I was not to be satisfied, and my curiosity grew with some years' residence in the city. By degrees, and after a diligent " hunting up of authorities," I found it was not by any means all ; that there was a story so deeply interest- VI ing, as — not to interrupt it — to lead me to venture on this brief introduction. In it, I trust, will be met what the more prosaic reader may require before taking an interest in the scenes and characters to be placed at his disposal. Those who prefer the more adventurous portion can pass on with the assurance that in it fact has not been sacrificed to romance. The family of Flinders was an old Lincoln shire one, long given to the healing art. His father had been a doctor, as had been his grand father, and even great-grandfather. No wonder when young Matthew went on board H.M.S. Reliance as midshipman that he formed his first friendship with the young surgeon of the vessel, Mr. Bass.

But this did not by any means exhaust the ties of his early home. When he had obtained his heart's desire, and could discover and name the future homes of so many new settlers, his first efforts were to recur to his native topography. Hence are perpetuated to the present day such names as Lincoln, Boston, Spilsby, and others, on Australian coasts ; and we leave to Mr. Akin to tell, in his proper place, how these names, sought to be obscured, yet remain as links between the two countries. But Matthew Flinders did not consider his native obligations yet sufficiently acknowledged by him. When he came to have the appointing of his own officers, one of his earliest selections was Mr. Midshipman Franklin, another Lincoln shire man, and a cousin of his own. Who can doubt that the future Sir John Franklin deve loped his ideas of Arctic discovery, as he certainly learned the necessary foundation of marine surveying, under the most consummate master the English Admiralty could then, or perhaps at any other time, boast of.

Yet Matthew Flinders had to learn his own art first, and it is with that our explanation now lies. Born at Donington, near Boston, on 1 6th March 1774, he was intended to follow the family pursuit of medicine. According to his own confession, two circumstances altered his career. He saw the sea, and he read " Robinson Crusoe." Thenceforth he applied himself to the study of geometry and navigation with such assiduity, that, though mainly self-taught, he had obtained considerable proficiency at sixteen years of age. Thus qualified, he offered himself as a volunteer on board Captain Pasley's ship the Scipio, then fitting out for active service at Chatham. Captain Pasley received him with considerable kindness, placed him on the quarter-deck, and when he exchanged into the Bellerophon, took him with him.

Finally, the Bellerophon being paid off, he sent him to Captain Bligh of the Providence, then about to sail on his second and successful voyage to the South Sea, for the purpose of transplanting the bread-fruit tree to the West Indies. Cap tain Bligh fully recognised the bent of young Flinders' mind towards practical hydrography, and entrusted him with a greater share of navi gation and marine chart-drawing than his mere years warranted. But he had not yet seen the last of his kind friend, Captain Pasley. When Flinders returned to England, that officer was again in command of the Bellerophon, under commission for foreign service, and took him with him. Here he saw the more belligerent side of his profession, ter minating with the defeat of the French off Ushant by Lord Howe in 1 794, on a day long to be known in England as " the glorious First of June."

Nor did the studious young midshipman fail to rise to the occasion. While loading the guns, the sailors were called off to trim the sails. Flinders saw the loaded guns in proper bearing for a broadside into one of the enemy's vessels, and himself applied the match. For this unbidden office he was repri manded by his captain, but sought excuse in the remark, " I thought it a fine chance to have a good shot at them." And now we approach the period when John Akin, his faithful companion in the future, may be permitted to take up his story. After the battle of Ushant, the Bellerophon returned to Portsmouth, and was paid off. Captain Water house, her late lieutenant, received his com mission as captain of the Reliance, with orders to convey Governor Hunter to New South Wales as head of that settlement, his vessel to remain as guardship in Port Jackson.

Captain Water house invited Flinders to accompany him as one of his midshipmen, and here really commenced the development of the young man's natural bent. Franklin's was not the only name to be associated with his early discoveries, that is, when he came to have an exploring ship of his own. Mr. Brown was the botanist, and Westall was the artist. The Colonial Institute is now in possession of some forty of Westall's drawings, and these have an additional interest in that, during the period of the wreck, when laid out to dry on the sandbank, they became per manently marked by the feet of some sheep saved from the vessel. Westall's scene of the " Wreck-Reef" itself will be found in its proper place in our pages ; and though other drawings of his were at our disposal, yet, on considera tion, it was thought that more modern illustra- X tions might better fall in with the tastes of the day.

To these are added a chart showing the actual course traversed by Flinders. It may interest the reader to have a bird's-eve view of all the localities dealt with ; and, for young people, will prepare them for a question which must yet arise, namely, the safety of our passage to the Far East, now that England has retired from Madagascar. Finally, John Akin himself is no imaginary character. He saw his friend and superior officer through all the incidents he is about to tell his readers of, with some more in which he took part on his own account. So much for our own countrymen. Of the French, with whom our narrative has also to deal, a word remains to be said. No resuscita tion of ill-feeling is intended. Where kindness has been shown it has been dwelt upon, but it is a simple act of justice that the real facts of the case should not be suppressed.

Captain Flinders returned to England in 1810, and thereafter devoted himself to his great task, the publication of his Australian explorations and experiences. This he lived to see accomplished, closing a short but chequered career on 19th July 1 8 14. ROBERT THYNNE. CONTENTS CHAP. PAGE I. THE "TOM THUMB" . . . -13 II. A FIRST ATTEMPT . . . . .21 III. BASS STRAIT . .... 20 IV. A STRANGE SAIL . . . .34 V. HOSPITALITIES ...... 42 VI. NATIVE SPORTS ..... 50 VII. THE GREAT BARRIER REEF • • • 59 VIII. CROSSING THE BARRIER .... 66 IX. THE "PORPOISE" . . . . -75 X. A NIGHT IN THE DEEP . . . .81 XI. DRT LODGINGS . . . . .92 XII. A LONG PULL ...... 103 XIII. CHOOSING A PORT . . . . 113 XIV. WAITING FOR ORDERS . . . 1 19 XV. LIKE MASTER, LIKE MAN . . . 130 XVI. THE CAFE MARENGO . . . 138 XVII. A CHILD OF THE REVOLUTION . . .145 XVIII.

A NEW CHARGE . . . . -151 XIX. HIS EXCELLENCY REPLIES. . . . 159 XX. FURTHER RESTRICTIONS . . . 170 XXI. A VISIT TO THE " CUMBERLAND " . 1 80 XXII. THE MISSING LOG-BOOK . . . .188 XXIII. GARDEN PRISON . . . . .199 XXIV. VÆ VICTIS !...... 207 Contents XII CHAP. PAGE XXV. ISLAND GOSSIP 2l6 XXVI. PASSED OVER 223 XXVII. WE HEAR OF OURSELVES . . . -231 XXVIII. THE LAST OF GARDEN PRISON . . . 240 XXIX. WILHEMS PLAINS 249 XXX. A PATHETIC LETTER .... 259 xxxi. "napoleon's land" .... 269 XXXII. BORROWED PLUMES . . . . ■ 211 XXXIII. AN INEFFECTUAL BLOCKADE . . . 282 XXXIV. DELENDA EST CARTHAGO .... 294 XXXV. A CUTTING-OUT AFFAIR .... 302 XXXVI. CROSS PURPOSES . . . . . 310 XXXVII. A SERIOUS CHECK . . . . '319 XXXVIII. A WORSE SURPRISE 33I XXXIX. THE TABLES TURNED .... 343 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS a dash for fresh water . . . .frontispiece CHART SHOWING THE COURSE OF THE EXPEDITION . iv AN EXHIBITION IN CLIMBING. . . . 1 8 SHEARING THE NATIVES .... . . .26 A NOTEWORTHY INTERVIEW ..... 40 BOGGED IN A MANGROVE SWAMP . . , -56 WRECK-REEF, FROM WESTALL'S DRAWING . . 83 THE GOVERNOR LOSES HIS TEMPER . . .134 OUR PRISON ATTRACTIONS . . . . . 208 SPIKING HIS OWN GUNS ..... MATTHEW FLINDEKS OR HOW WE HAVE AUSTRALIA

Chapter I The

"TOM THUMB" It was toward the beginning of the present century — to speak by the card, in the autumn of 1795 — when H.M.S. Reliance took up her position in Port Jackson, for the protection of the new settlement at Sydney. I, John Akin, was the youngest hand on board, being rated on the ship's books as a boy. Next to me in point of years was Mr. Matthew Flinders, one of our young midshipmen. If I spent more of my time iu the gun-room than my ship's rating gave me title to, that was by the captain's per mission, at the request of Mr. Flinders himself. The young gentleman was a born marine sur veyor, and all his spare time was devoted to the construction of sea-charts, of which he had brouo'ht a stock to the station, and was adding ■3 B The " Tom Thumb " 14 to it as his other avocations allowed.

You are to understand that all these were original, being taken from his own observations and calcula tions and rough tracings as opportunities offered, and transferred to paper with his own hand. No one helped him in that. My assistance consisted in rowing him about the beautiful and immense expanse of water known as Port Jackson, where the Reliance now lay at anchor, and then, when we got the materials, returning to the gun-room, and reading out the various observations and reckonings and notes from which the true position of natural objects were finally worked out. Ship's duties themselves were light. The ship had to be there, and to be kept ship-shape; that was about all. Our young surgeon, Mr. Bass, spent much of his time on laud. To be sure, there was no one ill on board. But the truth is, Mr. Bass had his own fancy, and was let see it out, which accordingly he did.

You know that behind the town of Sydney lay the Blue Moun tains, and no one had been able yet to cross them. Now, they were for all the world like a blue mist or curtain in the distance ; but on a nearer ap proach the mist changed into a solid wall, where neither break nor gap had been discovered, and so the townspeople of Sydney were shut out from the interior of the country. In the Gun-room 15 Well, Mr. Bass had said that he would cross the Blue Mountains if man could do it. So while I and Mr. Midshipman Flinders were boating about the bay, the young surgeon was endeavouring to make good his promise to the people of Sydney, who gave him all the aid in their power. We heard he had not succeeded ; and then, after a while, he returned to the ship. He confessed his defeat, adding, " I've got another idea in my head — only it has its own difficulties."

He was in the gun-room, and talking to Mr. Flinders. While he had been tackling the Blue Mountains, we had been busy upon our marine surveying, of which he knew nothing. I was within earshot, having just received directions from Mr. Flinders as to some future work. " This lad can manage a small boat? " next said Mr. Bass, looking toward me. 7 O Mr. Flinders nodded. As for me, thus regard ing myself as brought into the conversation, I stood my ground. " Good. Only that is not my difficulty." " What is it ? " inquired my young mid shipman. " Well, you see, it's this way. I'll have to let the Blue Mountains be. Pity though, isn't it? Here's a country almost as large as Europe, and The " Tom Thumb " 16 nothing is known of it but this harbour and the town beyond ! And all because " " You can't cross these mountains."

" It's a fact, though. So I had to ask myself what else I could do." " And then you met a difficulty, too. I think you said so ? " replied Mr. Flinders, laughing. " That's it ; I am coming to the point. I want to go at the thing systematically. These mountains must end somewhere, say, at the sea-coast ; so it would be necessary to get out of this bay and sail alonothe sea-coast. Then I would have to make a chart of all that, in order that others might follow me. Of course I can take bearings and calculate distances by walking ; I had to do all that up in these Blue Mountains. But then, I can't make a chart out of these rough materials •never learned." "And that is your only difficulty? " inquired Mr. Flinders, as he nodded to me. I knew what he meant, and went and brought some of his latest marine surveys.

"Why, they're beautiful!" said Mr. Bass. " You don't mean to say you did these vour self?" " Their beauty — if they have any — has very little to say to the matter. Accuracy is what is wanted." " They are beautiful — and, I have no doubt, " You are not to laugh " 17 accurate. Why couldn't you produce one of such charts if I gave you the bearings and the observations and the dead-reckonings ? " " Certainly, unless you will allowme to take them with vou." J " All right ; I'll ask leave of the captain for you and the boy when we are ready. To-morrow we will cross over to the harbour, and you shall then see the preparations I have been making ; only you are not to laugh." Accordingly, next day I pulled the surgeon and Mr. Flinders over the bay to one of the landing-slips of the town, near which was a large enclosed yard, with a shed in it, fitted up with a carpenter's bench, at which a man was working.

Here we saw " the preparations," which consisted of a small boat, very nearly completed. It was au open boat, just eight feet long, and was provided with two oars. There was also a loose spar, which could be shipped, and a sail attached. Mr. Flinders did not laugh. I think the prospect of carrying out his hobby, that of marine surveying, made him quite as serious as Mr. Bass was over his Blue Mountains ; though both of us did laugh before we left the shed, as presently I am about to narrate. Besides, our coasting had been hitherto limited to the shores of the bay, and here was a pro- The "Tom Thumb" position to go outside the Heads and explore the unknown. Nevertheless, I suppose Mr. Bass thought some explanation necessary. " Everything has its beginning, small at first. This is a very big place — I mean this New Holland."

" Just so. New Holland ! " said Mr. Flinders. " I don't like it. Fancy a country with this sunshine and those Blue Mountains before us deriving its name from the land of dykes and dams ! " " Very well ; perhaps among other discoveries we may find a better. Any way, here is this English settlement huddled up on the shores of Port Jackson. It may be the commencement of a great empire, who knows ! I don't say our boat will grow ; but when we show what we can do, the Governor may give us a larger vessel, a real exploring ship." Mr. Flinders had no further interruption to make. Doubtless his own ideas were expand ing, in order to keep company with those of his companion ; but perceiving some odd-looking apparatus hanging up in a corner of the shed, he inquired what it might be. Mr. Bass's only reply was to request the carpenter to bring it to him.

This being done, and we perceiving by this time that the hooks or claws, the bands, and the belts AN EXHIBITION IN CLIMBING. Page 18. Novel Climbing 19 all formed one connected contrivance, Mr. Bass proceeded straightway to array himself in it. When this was accomplished, and the bands and belts properly and strongly adjusted, the effect was rather grotesque, especially as the extremity of each foot was furnished with an iron hook, the same being the case with the hands. Mr. Flinders' face expressing no less surprise, if not more, at this exhibition, Mr. Bass, instead of explaining by words, immediately proceeded to afford an object-lesson in lieu thereof; that is to say, going to the high wall of the yard, he clambered up its perpendicular face without any apparent difficulty ; then with like ease, though under ordinary circumstances a more risky task, he clambered down again.

I suppose the carpenter's previous acquaint ance with the like exhibitions enabled him to maintain his gravity. But our young midship man fairly laughed, which, I am sorry to say, set me off too, though a recollection of our relative positions served to pull me up sooner. In fact Mr. Bass himself laughed as he rejoined us, though after that he shook his head, even tually concluding with something in the nature of a sigh. " Yes," he said, as he proceeded to divest himself of his extraordinary gear, "I was not so far out after all; I could climb anything in The "Tom Thumb" 20 reason. But those Blue Mountains ! — ah, no, they beat me." From which I concluded, as indeed was the case, that this had been his last expedient to find a pass into the interior for the people of Sydney, and that it was only on its failure that he had made his preparations for getting along the coast, as he had explained to us.

As I rowed the gentlemen back to the ship they continued to recur to that which was uppermost in the minds of both, and I confess, in my own, being now assured that I was to be included in the enterprise. "Yes," said Mr. Bass, " I have failed by land — now for the sea. This is my present point of view. Let us run down the coast until we come to the end of these mountains." " Didn't Captain Cook do that before he arrived at Port Jackson ? " "No. He sailed round Van Diemen's Land and then came straight up to Botany Bay, just beside Port Jackson and the town of Sydney." " That's the lowest extremity of New Holland — this Van Diemen's Land ? " "So they say. He didn't see any coast coming up. It trends away altogether to the west." "And now you propose to run it down toward the west ? " Who Knoivs ? 21 ' Yes.

The Blue Mountains may end some where in that direction — or, who knows " Mr. Bass paused, possibly to gain interest, then he proceeded — "Mountains feed streams — at least they do in the old country — and streams find their way to the coast. Now, if we could come across the mouth of a river, perhaps navi gable to our boat " " It needn't be very broad or very deep to be that." "No," said Mr. Bass, laughing, "we will have that advantage at least. It may be a way into the interior at all events. Not that I am going on mere conjecture. Such a river is reported to exist, and I propose to go and see. Aud now it only remains to give our vessel a name. What say you to Leviathan ? " " Suppose we begin with accuracy, as we hope to end. I sav Tom Thumb." J " Then Tom Thumb it shall be."

Chapter II

A FIRST ATTEMPT In a few days more all preparations were com plete for our intended cruise. A week's leave of absence had been obtained. For so long a A First Attempt 22 period the Tom Thumb was provisioned ; that is to say, we carried a small cask of water, with hopes of refilling it when necessary. Our anchor was a large stone, which also served as ballast. The two gentlemen carried a musket apiece. The supply of food was scanty, if only for want of room. But amid the information already acquired, it was promised that they would find use for their firearms, both on sea and coast. After we had got out of the Heads, which is the entrance to Port Jackson from the sea, the boat drifted along without assistance, being im pelled by a strong current. This progress with out effort was pleasant enough ; but toward evening the prospect was not so agreeable.

All day we had been thus drifting by tall cliffs, at the foot of which the surf beat without possi bility of landing. When darkness at length fell, the situation was no better. The last ray of light showed the cliffs still on shore, and when that had gone, and all was quite dark, the noise of the surf was still distinguishable. There was nothing for it but to drop the stone anchor and await the morning. With the first dawn the boat was again left to its own onward progress. By this time, however, the cask of fresh water was empty. Fortunately, about mid-day a possibility of re- Driven on Shore 23 plenishing it disclosed itself. The surf still beat violently on shore, so much as to make it doubtful whether the boat would live through it. But the cliffs had receded inland, leaving a sandy beach instead.

Under these circumstances Mr. Bass volunteered to swim to land, and placing the empty cask in front, consigned himself to the inshore current. We saw man and cask arrive in safety on the strand. But our own congratu lations were short-lived, for in a moment more the surf seized the boat with irresistible force, carrying it also high, though not dry, on shore. Arms, ammunition, clothes, and provisions were thoroughly drenched, and partly spoiled. We emptied the boat, and again launched it. Then by means of an extemporaneous raft its cargo was again restored to it. By this time it was late in the afternoon, so progress was again made in the direction of some small islets which appeared ahead. These islets we found to be inaccessible, and the boat's course was continued further on toward a larger islet now visible.

But a like disappointment awaited us ; we found no land ing-place. Darkness had now set in. There was nothing for it but to sit out the second nio-ht in the Tom Tliumb, and the stone anchor <____> ' was let go in seven fathoms of water, under lee of point of islet. A First Attempt 24 The morning's light revealed to us two natives on the mainland, and the want of fresh water being severely felt, it was judged advisable to hold communication with them, especially as their demonstrations appeared friendly. Their information was that no water was procurable in the immediate neighbourhood ; but they made offer to pilot the boat some miles further on, where, they said, a river would be found, as also fish and wild-duck. The offer was too tempting to be declined. But river there was none, unless a very small stream, finding its way with difficulty to the seashore through some sandbanks, could be so called.

So much for native report, which had partly influenced Mr. Bass. There was hardly sufficient water for the Tom Thumb to enter, though the natives lightened the boat by step ping ashore and walking along the bank. A question of remuneration for such service as had been performed was settled by the natives them selves, who pointed to a large scissors forming part of the boat's stores. Accordingly, Mr. Flinders proceeded to exhibit its use by trim ming their beards. To this they submitted with approval. While the process was going on, eight or ten more natives made their appearance. The Tom Thumb being now got safely into the Apprehensions 25 stream, we next proceeded to explore its upward course, the natives walking abreast on the bank, and so accompanying us for about a mile. The sources of the stream itself we now saw to owe their origin to a large lagoon some few miles further inland.

There was a natural desire to proceed to this latter object, but the stream was becoming more shallow, while the accompanying band of natives was on the increase. The anxiety of these latter to entice us on also raised uneasy thoughts. A halt was made, and the situation was hastily considered. It was serious enough. Report at the settlement on Port Jackson ascribed to these natives great ferocity, if not actual cannibalism. On the other hand, the powder was wet, and the muskets still filled with sand and rust from "their immersion in the surf on the preceding day. A course had to be adopted, and that without delay. The powder was carried on to the sandy bank, and there exposed to the sun to dry. This encountered no opposition, the natives probably being unsuspicious of its use. But when a further attempt was made to clean the guns, the excitement became threatening ; so much so, that we judged it expedient to desist.

In this emergency our young midshipman had again recourse to his shears, and four or five native beards were presented for trimming. The A First Attempt 26 process was rough, and thus a dozen men got through in a manner sufficiently ludicrous, spite of the critical position of affairs. The close proximity of the formidable pair of scissors to the nose excited each native's apprehension, and it needed all the assurance of those already shorn to encourage the new-comers. Even thus the picture presented was laughable, the wild stare of the eye contrasting with the forced smile with which the process was submitted to. So, as usual, vanity carried the day. While Mr. Flinders was thus employed, Mr. Bass and myself had replenished the cask with fresh water. The powder and arms were safely conveyed into the boat again.

All was ready for a start, and Mr. Flinders finally took his seat and grasped his oar. The natives were vociferous for us to proceed on to the lagoon, but the Tom Thumb was rowed rapidly down stream, and soon the deep water outside the beach cut off pursuit. By this time darkness had fallen. The sea breeze had entirely died away, and progress could be made only by continued exercise at the oars. This we persevered iu up to one o'clock in the morning, when, a sandy beach disclosing itself, the boat was again run to land and hauled up on shore. Here a fire was lit and some provisions cooked. SHEARING THE NATIVES. Page 26. A Run before the Wind 27 Then we took a much-needed rest. Our bed was the sandy beach ; but after being three days and nights cramped up in our small boat, it proved a bed of sweet rej>ose.

Next day no wind arose, which was doubly disappointing, as the time for our return had now come, and the current wTould be against us. In the condition of our stores there was nothing else for it, and we expected progress homeward to be made by the oars only. However, by hard and prolonged work four leagues were accomplished, and with evening the stone anchor was dropped under a range of coast hills. But the rest was short-lived. At ten o'clock a strong gale arose, and we had to run before the wind. The night was dark, and there was little to indicate our course save the deeper shadow of the line of cliffs along shore and the noise of the surf striking at the base of them. Mr. Flinders steered with an oar. Mr. Bass held the sheet of the sail in his hand, tightening occasionally as a particularly heavy sea followed the boat.