Old & New London. By W. Thornbury and Edward Walford. Illustrated

Chapter I. Westminster

— GENERAL REMARKS.— ITS BOUNDARIES AND HISTORY. PAGB Origin of the Name— Its Early History— Antiquity of the See— Foundation of the Abbey— The Palace at Westminster— Present Size and Importance— Extent of its Boundaries 5

Chapter II. Butcher's Row

— CHURCH OF ST. CLEMENT DANES. Temple Bar and Johnson— Butcher's Row— The " Straits"— Shenstone— The Gunpowder Plotters— The Old Fish Shop— " Bulk Shops" and their Occupants— Churchyard and Church of St. Clement Danes— Johnson's Pew in the Church— Great Men Buried at St. Clement's— The Registers— Two Noteworthy Entries IO

Chapter III. St

CLEMENT DANES (continued). -THE LAW COURTS. Early Courts of Law— Inns of Court— Want of a Central Building— New Law Courts Projected— Selection of Architect— Discussion ahout the Site— Plan and Design of the New Building— Temple Bar Memorial— Old Buildings swept away— The Old Fish Shop— Holloway's-Shire Lane and its Inhabitants-Sir C Sedley— The Well of St. Clement's-Bell Yard— Plough Alley— Boswell Court : a Relic of Old Times— Clement's Lane : its Decline and Fall— A Grand Clearance ..... ......15 /■''CHAPTJSR IV. ST. CLEMENT DANES;3(7«>/ai«a').— A WALK ROUND THE PARISH. Carey Street — Its Reminiscences — Residences of Benjamin" Franklin.. 1>ir WillSam Blackstone, and Mrs. Chapone — The " Grange " Inn — The "Plough" Tavern and Gully the Prizefighter — The " Seven" Stars " — Serle's Court, now called New Square — Ravenscroft's Wig-shop — Serle's Coffee House — Portugal Row — Playhouse Street— The Duke's Theatre — Origin of the Sergeant's Guard at the Theatre Royal— Curious Play Bills of the last Century — Portugal Street — King's College Hospital — Burial-place of Joe Miller — Enon Chapel and the Modern "Golgotha" — The "Old Black Jack." 26

Chapter V. The Strand

(NORTHERN TRIBUTARIES).— CLEMENT'S INN, NEW INN, LYON'S INN, ETC. Curious Legend about St. Clement's Lane — Clement's Inn — New Inn— Stanhope Street — Birthplace of Grimaldi — Holywell Street — The " Old Drury" Tavern — Ancient Shop-Signs — " Bookseller's Row " — Wych Street — New Inn — The " White Lion " and Jack Sheppard — The "Angel" Inn and Bishop Hooper— ,( Saddling the Spit" — Lyon's Inn— The " Spotted Dog"— The Globe Theatre— The Opera Comique — The Olympic Theatre 32

Chapter VI. The Strand

(NORTHERN TRIBUTARIES).— DRURY LANE AND CLARE MARKET. The Hundred of Drury — Drury House, afterwards called Craven House — The "Queen of Bohemia" — Drury Lane — Eminent Inhabitants — Residence of Nell Gwynne — The " Cock and Magpie " — The " Craven Head " and the Norfolk Giant — Disreputable Character of Drury Lane in the Past Century — Pepys' Visit to the " Cockpit " — Puritan Observances — The Theatre in Vere Street — " Spiriting Away " an Infant — Princes Street — Clare Market — John Henley, the Demagogue— Clare House — Killigrew's Theatre — Mrs. Bracegirdle's Benevolence—The " Bull's Head " and the Artists' Club— The " Spiller's Head " Tavern— Clare Market Chapel— Denzil Street— Holies Street . 36

Chapter VII. Lincoln's Inn Fields

Formation of Lincoln's Inn Fields— Dimensions of the Square — Inigo Jones's Plan— Noble Families resident here— The Poet Gay's Estimate of the Place— "Mumpers" and "Rufflers" — Used as Training-grounds for Horses— Bad Reputation of the Fields in Former Times- Execution of Lord William Russell— The Tennis Court— The Royal College of Surgeons— Sardinian Chapel— The Sardinian Ambassador's Residence— The " Devil's Gap" — Institution for the Remedy of Organic Defects, &c— Society for Promoting Christian Knowledge- Newcastle House— The Soane Museum— Inns of Court Hotel— Whetstone Park— Milton's Residence— Great and Little Turnstiles- Proposal to erect ihe Courts of Law in Lincoln's Inn Fields CONTENTS.

Chapter VIII. Lincoln's Inn

page Portescue's Definition of ' ' Inns of Court " — The " Revels " — Regulation of the Growth of Boards — ' ' Mootings " — Lincoln's Inn a Mansion of Henry de Lacy, Earl of Lincoln— Description of the Building;— The Thurloe Papers — Ben Jonson as a Bricklayer — Humorous Translation of Inscription on " Foundation Stone" — Sir Matthew Hale— The Gardens— History of Lin:oln's Inn— Sir Thomas More— Illustrious Members of Lincoln's Inn 51

Chapter IX. The Si Rand

-INTRODUCTORY AND HISTORICAL. Condition of the Strand in the Days of the Plantagenets and Tudors — Rules for Hackney Coaches— Taylor, the " Water Poet " — Origin ot the Name of the Strand— Graphic Sketch of the Strand Five Centuries ago— New Paving Act— State Pageants— Temple Bar in Danger . 59

Chapter X. The Strand

— SOUTHERN TRIBUTARIES. Thanet Place— The Old "Rose" Tavern— Palsgrave Place— The "Palsgrave Head "—Andrew Marvell— The London and Westminster Joint- Stock Bank— Messrs. Strahan, Paul, and Bates— Messrs. Twining and Co.'s Bank and Tea-warehouse—" George's Hotel "— Devereux Court — " Tom's Coffee House " — The "Grecian" — Eldcn Chambers 63

CHAPTER XL THE STRAND.

— SOUTHERN TRIBUTARIES {continued). Exeter House— Attacked by the Populace— Seized by Lord Paget, and Bequeathed to Robert, Earl of Essex— Paterson, the Auctioneer— Essex Street— "Sam's" Club at the "Essex Head "—Anecdote ofthe Young Pretender— The Robin Hood Society— Charles Dibdin— The Unitarian Chapel— Earliest Inhabitants of Essex Street 66

Chapter XII. The Strand

-SOUTHERN TRIBUTARIES [continued) Milford Lane— The Chapel of the Holy Ghost — The Illustrated Loftdou News— Messrs. Woodfall and Kinder's — Arundel House — The Arundel Collection— Lord Seymour's Dalliance with the Princess Elizabeth— The Due de Sully at Arundel House—*' Old Parr " — Distinguished Inhabitants of Arundel Street — The "Crown and Anchor" Tavern— The Whittington Club— The Temple Club— Messrs. W. H. Smith and Son's News Agency— An Early News-Mart— Strand Lane— The Old Roman Bath— Jacob Tonson . . . . . . .70

Chapter XIII. The Strand

-SOUTHERN TRIBUTARIES [continued). Sir Thomas Lyttleton and Bishop Burnet — Norfolk Street — Royal Fanners and General Insurance Company— St. John's House— Conservative Land Society— Eminent Residents in Norfolk Street— Surrey Street— Office for Licensing Hackney Coaches— Voltaire and Will Congre\ . — Howard Street — Attempted Abduction of Mrs. Bracegirdle, the Actress — Murder of Mr Mountfort £<->

Chapter XIV. St

MARY-LE-STRAND7 THE MAYPOLE, &C. Building of St. Mary-le-3trand Church — Singular Accident — The Young Pretender here renounces the Roman Catholic Faith — Strand Bridge — Strand Theatre— The Original Church of St. Mary-le-Strand— Setting up the Maypole— Anne Clarges, Wife of the First Duke of Albemarle—Maypole Alley— Sir Isaac Newton purchases the Maypole — An Ancient Cross— Chester, or Strand Inn gj

Chapter XV. Somerset House And King's College

Old Somerset House— Rapacity of the Protector Somerset — John of Padua, Architect of the Original Building — Downfall and Execution cf the Protector — Somerset House assigned to the Princess Elizabeth — Afterwards the Residence of the Queens of England — Its Name changed to Denmark House — Additions made by Inigo Jones— Banishment of the Capuchin Fathers, and Desecration of the Chapel— The Services in the Chapel restored, and Pepys' Account of them — Catherine of Braganza — Attempt to implicate the Royal Household with the Murder of Sir Edmundbury Godfrey— The Cemetery — Description of the Old Buildings — Their Demolition — Building of New Somerset House— Amusing Tradition relative to Somerset House— King's College , • . . 89

Chapter XVI. The Savoy

Early History of the Savoy Palace — John, the French King, lodged here— The Savoy attacked by the Citizens of London, and by Wat Tyler — Converted into a Hospital by Henry VII. — Assembly of the Commissioners for the Revision of the Liturgy— A Colony of Jesuits established in the Savoy— The Chapel of St. Mary — Distinguished Persons buried here — Funeral of the Earl of Bedford— The " Worshipfui Company of Upholders "...• 9$

Chapter XVII. The Strand

-SOUTHERN TRIBUTARIES [continued). Beaufort Buildings— Fielding, the Novelist— Worcester House— Car^y House— The " Fox-under-the-Hill "—Beaufort House —Salisbury House- The Middle Exchange— Cecil Street— The Arundel Club— Ivy Bridge Lane— Durham House — The New Exchange— The Duchess of Tyrconnel, the " White Milliner"— A Singular Tragedy and Curious Dencnemetit— Coutts' _ Bank— The Adelphi— Gamck's House— The "Shades"— The Society of Aits— Buckingham Street— York Stairs— BueJ-vngham Water Gate — Villiers Street IOC CONTENTS. IX

Chapter XVIII. The Strand

— NORTHERN TRIBUTARIES. PAGE Catherine Street— Derivation of its Name— The Morning Chronicle and Mr. John Black— Wimbledon House— D'Oyley's Warehouse- Exeter Street— Exeter Arcade— The Strand Music Hall— The Gaiety— The Morning- P»s£— Exeter House, and Visit nf Queen Elizabeth to Lord Burleigh— Exeter Change— The Menagerie— The Elephant " Chunee " — The Lyceum Theatre— The Beef-steak Club— Exeter Hall — The Adelphi Theatre— Maiden Lane a.nd its Noted Residents— Southampton Street — The "Bedford Head" — The Corps of Commissionaires— Bed-ford House — The Lancet and Mr. T. Wakley— General Monk and the Duchess of Albemarle —Newspapers published in the Strand IIO

Chapter XIX. Charing Cross, The Railway Stations, And Old Hungerford Market

Derivation of the Name of Charing — Description of the Original Cross— Lines on its Downfall- Sir Thomas Wyatt's Encounter with Queen Mary's Troops— A Cunning Royalist — The Statue of Charles I. — Andrew Marvell's Satire— The Story of the Sword- Execution of the Regicides — Curious Exhibitions at Charing Cross — The Royal Mews — Charing Cross Hospital— Westminster Ophthalmic Hcspital— Toole's Theatre — The " Golden Cross " — Charing Cross Railway Station and Hote 1 — The New Eleanor Cross — The Railway Bridge— Old Hungerford Market— Hungerford Bridge— The Lowther Arcade— Adelaide Gallery— Craven Street- Northumberland Street , 123

Chapter XX. Northumberland House And Its Associations

Situation and Early Owners — Passes into the Hands of the Howards — Called Northampton House — Name changed to Suffolk House — Again altered to Northumberland House— The " Proud" Duke of Somerset— Sir Hugh Smithson, afterwards Duke of Northumberland—Description of the Building — The Percy Lion— Sale and Demolition of the House— Northumberland A\enue . . . 1 -• -

Chapter XXI. Trafalgar Square, The National Galleries

&C. Formation of Trafalgar Square — The "King's Mews" — Mr. Cross's Menagerie— A State Coach-house — The Royal Humane Society — The Nelson Monument— Sir E. Landseer's Lions— Statues of George IV., Havelock, Napier, and General Gordon — Proposal for planting Trafalgar Square as a Garden— The Royal College of Physicians- Dr. Harvey's Benefaction — Anecdote of Dr. Baillie— Dr. Radcliffe and Sir Godfrey Kneller — History of the Foundation of the College of Physicians — Cockspur Street — O'Brien, the Irish Giant — Statue of George III. — Society of Painters in Water-Colours— The National Gallery— Its Formation and Subsequent Additions — Agitation for an Academy of Painting — Sir Godfrey Kneller' s Drawing Academy— Sir James Thornhill's Propositions rejected- Establishment ofthe Royal Academy — Sir Joshua Reynolds, Benjamin West, Sir Thorms Lawrence, Sir Martin A. Shee, Sir Charles L. Eastlake, Sir Francis Grant, Lord Leighton, Sir John Millais, and Sir J. E. Poynter — The National Portrait Gallery . . . I4I

Chapter XXII. St

MARTIN'S-IN-THE-FIELDS. St. Martin's-in-the-Fields in the Sixteenth and Seventeenth Centuries— The Church built by Henry VIIL— The Church rebuilt— Description ofthe Edifice — Burial of Sir Edmundbury Godfrey — Notabilities interred in the Churchyard — The Parish Rate-books — Curious Stories about St. Martin's Church — The Royal Society of Literature— Anthropological Institute— National Society for aiding the Sick and Wounded in War— Archbishop Tenison's Library and School — An Ancient Chapel or Oratory — Historic and Artistic Associations of St. Martin's Lane _ ♦ I49

Chapter XXIII. Leicester Square And Its Neighbourhood

Leicester Fields — Formation of the Square— Famous Duels fought here— Leicester House — Anecdote of George III.'s Childhood— Sir Ashton Lever's Museum — Saville House — Miss Linwood's Exhibition of Needlework — Destruction of Saville House — Residence of Sir Joshua Reynolds — Hogarth's House — The " Pic-nic Club" — John Hunter's Museum —The Alhambra — Burford's Panorama — The Church of Notre Dame de France— Wyld's " Great Globe " — Downfall of the Statue of George I. — Renovation of the Square by Mr. Albert Grant — Residence of Sir Isaac Newton— Cranbourn Street and Cranbourn Alley — Daly's Theatre 160

Chapter XXIV. Soho

The Situation and Etymology of Soho — Historical Reminiscences — Newport Market — French Refugees— Gerrard Street — The Toxophilite Society — Dryden's House — Edmund Burke — The "Turk's Head" Tavern and the Literary Club — The " Literary Society" — Macclesfield or Gerard House — The Prince of Wales's Shooting Ground — L'Hotel de l'Etoile — St. Anne's Church — The Burial-place of Lord Camelford — Vicissitudes of the King of Corsica — The Parish Watch-house and " Sir Harry Dimsdale " 1 73

Chapter XXV. Soho Square And Its Neighbourhood

Noted Residents in Soho— Appearance of the Square in Queen Anne's Reign— Proposal for the Restoration of the Square— Monmouth House— Lord Bateman— Carlisle House and the celebrated Mrs. Cornelys* Masquerades— St. Patrick's Chapel— Humorous Description of an Irish Wake — The White House and its Fashionable Patrons — Soho Bazaar — The Residence of Sir Joseph Banks — Origin ot the Linnæan Society — Frith Street — Sir Samuel Romilly — Compton Street— Dean Street— The New Royalty Theatre— Greek Street — The House of Charity — Wardour Street — "The Mischief" in Oxford Street — Hog Lane (Charing Cross Road) and the Greek Chapel— Hogarth's "Noon" 1S4

Chapter XXVI. St

GILES' S-IN-THE-FIELDS. St. Giles, the Patron Saint of Lepers — The Lepers' Hospital founded here — The Village of St. Giles in the Time of the Plantagenets, Tudors, and Stuarts — Executions at St. Giles's— The " Half-way House " nn the Road to Tyburn— The Cage and the Pound — St. Giles's Church — Church Lane — Monmouth Court and the Catnach Press— The Seven Dials— Shaved by a Woman — The Prince and the Beggars X CONTENTS.

Chapter XXVII. The Parish Of St

GILES'S-IN-THE-FIELDS (continued). PAGE The Poor of St. Giles's-Curious Parish Regulations-" Old Simon/the Beggar-Denmark Street-Etymology of Brownlow and belton Streets-Endell Street-Queen Anne's Bath-British Lying-in Hospital-Baths and Washhouses-French Protestant Episcopal Church -Bloomsbury Chapel-Bedford Chapel-Outbreak of the Plague of 1665 in St. Giles's-Lewknors Lane and Us Character in the Reign of Queen Anne-Nell Gwynne's Birthplace-St. Giles's Almshouses-The Oid Round House and Jack Sheppards Escape- The Cockpit and Phœnix Theatres-The " White Lion " in Drury Lane-" The Flash Coves' Parliament "-Great Queen Street and its Fashionable Residents-The Gordon Riots-Opie's Popularity-James Hoole's Residence-The Freemasons Hall and Tavern-lhe Wesleyan Chapel-The Marriage Register of David Garrick-Benjamin Franklin's Printing-press-Gate Street-The Great and Little Turnstiles— Tichborne Court— Religious Persecutions ' ~°"

Chapter XXVIII. Drury Lane Theatre

The Original Playhouse in Covent Garden-The Players Imprisoned in the Gate House-The Cockpit Theatre-K.lhgrew s Theatre in Drury Lane-Betterton's Early Triumphs-The Players first styled " His Majesty's Servants "-Testimonial to Mrs. Bracegirdle- Lovely " Nancy" Oldfield-Colley Cibber as Manager and Dramatist-Garrick at Drury Lane-Kitty Clive, the Comic Actress— A Batch of Fortunate Actresses -Edmund and Charles Kean-Mrs. Nisbet, Macready, and Madame Celeste— Anecdote of Madame Malibian— Michael Balfe, and the Statue erected to his Honour— Salaries of Celebrated Players— Changes and Vicissitudes of "Old Drury"— The New Theatre closed by Order of the Lord Chamberlain— Mrs. Siddons' Debut— The Kembles— Sheridan's Habit of Procrastination— The Theatre again destroyed by Fire— Coolness of Sheridan— The " Rejected Addresses "-Mr. Whitbread and the Colonnade— Rebuilding and Opening of the New Theatre— Its subsequent Vicissitudes— Van Amburgh and his Wild Beasts— The Theatre opened as an Opera-house -

Chapter XXIX. Covent Garden Theatre

The Building ofthe Theatre—" Rich's Glory "—The First Performance at Covent Garden— Ladies at the Theatre— Receipts of the House — Performance of Handel's " Messiah "—Royalty dock to the Haymarket, and Horace Walpole's Remarks upon the Subject— First Appearance of "Peg" Woffington— Death of Rich, and Sale of Covent Garden Theatre -Charles Macklin, the Comedian and Centenarian— Stephen Kemble— Incledon— George Frederick Cooke— John Philip Kemble— " The Young Roscius "—The Theatre burnt in 1S08— The Duke of Northumberland's Generosity to Kemble— The Theatre rebuilt and opened— The " O. P." Riots, succeeded by a run of uninterrupted Prosperity— Poetic Effusions upon Actresses wedded to Noblemen 227

Chapter XXX. Covent Garden

- GENERAL DESCRIPTION. Extent of the District— Covent Garden in the Fourteenth Century — The Site passes into the hands of the Duke of Somerset, and afterwards the Earls of Bedford— Origin of the Ma. ket— Annals of Covent Garden— The Fashionable Days of Covent Garden— The Piazzas as a Promenade— History ofthe Market— The Sun-dial— The Hackney-coach Stands— The Mohocks and other Marauders . 238

Chapter XXXI. Covent Garden

(continued). The Market described— The Covent Garden of the Past and Present contrasted— Best Time to view the Marke't — The Flower Market — The Piazza — The Irish Society of Fortune-hunters — Pepys in the Piazza— Theodore Hook and Sheridan — The Puppet Show — The " Bedford Coffee-House" — The Floral Hall — The "Hummums" — "Evans's Hotel" — The Old Supper Room— The New Hall— Famous Residents in Covent Garden— Auction Rooms — Marriage a la Mode 244

Chapter XXXII. Covent Garden And Its Neighbourhood

[continued). St. Paul's Church first built— Destroyed by Fire and rebuilt — Dispute between the Earl of Bedford and the Vicar of St. Martin's-in-the- Fields— Horace Walpole's Criticism of the Building — Extracts from the Parish Register — Notabilities interred in the Churchyard— The Parish Rate-books and Church Registers — " King's " Coffee House — The Westminster Elections — The Duchess of Devonshire and Lady Duncannon's Patriotism — Fox " chaired " as the Man for the People — " Treasonable Practices " of the " Independent Electors " — -Excitement consequent on the Westminster Elections — Morals of Covent Garden in the Seventeenth Century— Suicide of Mr. Darner — Arrest ofthe Muscovite Ambassador, and his Detention in the " Black Raven" — The "Finish" — The "Museum Minervæ" — The Marquis of Worcester and the Convent Garden — Noted Residents of Covent Garden — Tavistock Street — Tavistock Row — Charles Macklin's Residence— The Murder of Miss Ray • 2jC

Chapter XXXIII. Covent Garden And Its Neighbourhood

[continued). Distinguished Inhabitants of James Street— Henrietta Street— Sir Robert Strange, the Historical Engraver— Duel between Sheridan and Mathews— Formation ofthe Society of Arts — King Street— D'Urfey's Allusion to the " Three Kings" — Hutchins' and Paterson's Auction Rooms — "The Essex Serpent" — Samuel Taylor Coleridge— The Garrick Club — Collection of Theatrical Portraits — Rose Street — Samuel Butler, the Author of'Hudibras" — Assault of Dryden— The "Pope's Head " and Curll the Bookseller — New Street Dr. Johnson's Dinner— Artists in Long Acre— Wedgwood —Removal of Sign-boards— Bedford Street— An Old Tea Shop— Garrick in Southampton Street — The old Welsh Alehouse — Danby and Marvell — Voltaire— Turner — Quarrel between Hogarth and Churchill The " Cider Cellars"— Chandos Street — Bedfordbury — Sir F. Kynaston and the Museum Minervæ 262

Chapter XXXIV. Covent Garden And Its Neighbourhood

{continued). Long Acre — Its Original Condition — The Head-quarters of Carriage-builders — Distinguished Residents — St. Martin's Hall Mr. HullaVs Choral Classes— St. Martin's Hall destroyed by Fire and rebuilt— The Queen's Theatre— Messrs. Merryweather's Fire-engine Manufactory—Hanover Court, and Taylor the " Water-Poet "—Hart Street- Charles Macklin ss a Tavern-keeper— Bow Street— The Police Office— Noted Residents— Fall ofGrinling Gibbons' House— Dr. Radclift'j— The Poet Wycherley— The " Garrick's Head "—Exhibition of Sign-boards — The " Wrekin" — Wycherley" s Dying Request to his Young Wife •■»•••.,,. , CONTENTS. XI

Chapter XXXV. Covent Garden And Its Neighbourhood

(continued). PAGE Russell Street-Tom Davies' Bookshop-The First Meeting of Boswell and Johnson-A„ Anecdote of Foote, the Actor-" Will's Coffeehouse "-Dryden and Addison-Pope's Youthful Visits to " Will's "-" Button's Coffee-house "-The " Lion's Head *"— " Tom's Coffeehouse"-The "Shakespeare's Head "-The "Albion "-Distinguished Residents in Russell Street-" The Orpheus" Music-shop-Thc " Rose "Taveru-The" Harp "and "The City of Lushington "-Crown Court and the Scotch National Church-Richard Steele- Gradual Decline of " Button's Coftee-house" . 275

Chapter XXXVI. Covent Garden And Its Neighbourhood

(continued). Club Life-Dickens's Love for Covent Garden-The "Sheridan Knowles" Tavern and the "Owls" Club-The " Whistling Oyster »- The "Shakespeare Head "Tavern-Johnson's Alamode Beef shop- -Wellington Street-Tavistbck Street-Dramatic s'ick Fund Association-Royal Dramatic College-A Batch of Newspaper Offices-Dr. Johnson and Dr. Perry-The Victoria Club-Royal Genera' Theatrical Fund-Bohn's Library-The "Fleece" Inn and the " Turk's Head "-" Wright's " Coffee-house-Anecdote of Foote, the Actor-Discovery of Stone Coffins-Millar the Publisher and Fielding's " Amelia "-Sotheby and Wdkinson's Auction-rooms- Somerset ' House— .Lancaster Place — The London Necropolis Company. . , -o

Chapter XXXVII. The River Thames

The Pool— Importance ofthe Thames in the Olden Time— King James and the Corporation of London— Scenery ofthe Thames from London Bridge to Westminster— The " Folly "—A Chinese Junk— The Ancient Church of St. Mary-the-Virgin— Lilly, the Astrologer— The Thames Police— The Royal Humane Society's Reception-Room— Waterloo Bridge— The Last of the Savoy Palace— CarlisIe°House— The Adelphi Terrace— Rousseau and Garrick-Old Hungerford Bridge— Hungerford Stairs-Warrens Blacking Warehouse and Charles Dickens— The Thames Swimming Baths— Whitehall Stairs— Cowley's Funeral— Westminster Bridge— Wordsworth's Sonnet on the Scene from the Bridge at Sunrise ,,0-

Chapter Xxxviii. The River Thames

[continued). Poetic Effusions in Honour ofthe Thames—" Swan-upping"— River Waifs and Dead Houses— Watermen and Wherrymen— Authorised Rate of Charges made by Watermen— Doggett's Coat and Badge— Thomas Doggett as an Actor— Miss Benger's Apostrophies of Taylor, the ' ' Water-Poet "—The Thames as the Great Medium of Conveyance— State Processions— Amusements on the Thames— Bathing in the Thames— Condition of the River in 1874 — Depredations from Merchant Vessels— Training-vesseL for the Royal Navy and Merchant Service— Mercantile Importance of the Thames . ■ . , . ,00

Chapter XXXIX. The River Thames

[continued). Remarkable Frosts on the Thames — Frost Fair in 1683 — Rhyming Description of " Blanket Fair " — Evelyn's Account of the Fair — Printing on the Ice— Charles II. 's Partiality to Frost Fair — The River again frozen over in 1709, 1715, 1739, 1767, 1788, and 1814— Curious Handbills Printed on the Ice— Singular Feats performed on the Thames— Captain Boyton's Life-preserving Dress— Scott, the American Diver— Rise and Fall of the Tide— Projected Improvements for the Bed of the River B , . .311

Chapter XL. The Victoria Embankment

The Thames Banks ir the Early Ages— Sir Christopher Wren's Plan for Embanking the River— Evelyn's Suggestion with the same View — The Subject brought before Parliament by Sir F. W. Trench — Mr. James Walker's Plan — The Victoria Embankment commenced — The Work described Land reclaimed from the Thames— The Metropolitan District Railway— Materials used in constructing the Embankment — Offices of the London School Board -Somerset House and the New Will Depository — Special Curiosities in the Will Office — Cleopatra's Needle — Savoy Theatre— The Buckingham Water Gate — Lines on Nelson's Column — Statue of Sir James Outram— Avenue Theatre — Public Garden and Promenade— St. Stephen's Club ....* 322

Chapter XLI. Scotland Yard And The Metropolitan Police

Situation and Extent — Originally the Residence of the Scottish Kings and Ambassadors when in England — Margaret Queen of Scots enter- - tained here — Decay of the Palace— John Milton and " Beau" Fielding Residents here — Inigo Jones, Sir John Denham, and Sir Christopher Wren— Sir John Vanbrugh and his "Goose Pie" — Sir Joshua Reynolds' Encomiums on Vanbrugh's Merits — Rowe's Poetical Allusion to him — Jcsiah Wedgwood's Residence — The "Well's" Coffee House — Attack on Lord Herbert of Cherbury — The Palace Court or Marshalsea — The Metropolitan Police Force — Cabs and Hackney Coaches — Sedan Chairs — Care of "Tipplers" — Harrington House — " Man's " Coffee House — Whitehall Place — Middle Scotland Vard — Royal United Service Institution— Government Offices — Fife House — A "canny" Scotch Earl— Whitehall Stairs 329

CHAPTER XLI

I. WHITEHALL. — HISTORICAL REMARKS. The most Polite Court in Europe— A School of Manners and Morals— Historical Account of Whitehall— Anciently called York Place— Name . of York Place changed to Whitehall— Wolsey's Style of Living here— Visit of Henry VIIL— The Fall of Wolsey— Additions to the Palace by Henry VIIL— Queen Mary at Whitehall— The Palace attacked by Rioters— Tilting-Matches and Pageants— Queen.Elizabeth's Library The "Fortresse of Perfect Beautie"— Masques and Revels at Whitehall— The Office of "Master of the Revels"— The Tilt-yard- Charles Killigrew— Serving up the Queen's Dinner -Christian IV. of Denmark and James I.— The Gunpowder Plot— Library of James I. at Whitehall-George Villiers, Duke of Buckingham ; CONTENTS. XII

Chapter XLIII. Whitehall And Its Historical Associations

(continued). FAGR Charles I and the Parliament-Cromwell and the Commonwealth-The King brought to Trial-Execution of Charles I.-The Site of the Execution-Andrew Marvell's Lines on the Occasion-Who was the Executioner o^ Charles I. ?-The Actual Scene ofthe Execution- Pennant's Opinion-The King's P.earing-A Singular Coincidence-Who .truck the Fatal Blow?-Varying Statements upon this Point . 347

Chapter XLIV. Whitehall And Its Historical Associations

(continued). A Singular Prophecy-The Ill-fated Bust of Charles I.-Charles I. as a Patron of the Fine Arts-Relics of the " Martyr King "-" Touching ' for the King's Evil-Anecdote of " Archy," the King's Jester, and Archbishop Laud-The Restoration of Charles «. -Charles I and Lady Castlemaine-Loose Life of the Court -Catharine of Braganza-Dr. South and Lord Lauderdale-Visits of John Evelyn to Whitehall-Sir William Penn-The Duke of Monmouth-The Last Hours and Death of Charles II.-The Last of the Stuarts-Whitehall as the Focus of Political Intrigue, and the Chief Staple of News— Serious Conflagrations at Whitehall 351

Chapter XLV. Whitehall

— THE BUILDINGS DESCRIBED. De cription of the Old Palace-Additions made by Henry VIII.-The Holbein Gateway-Westminster Gate-Knights ofthe Tilt-yard -Inigo Jones' Design for a New Palace - Residence of the Ladies and Gentlemen of the Court-An Ingenious Design for Rebuilding Whuenall-Description of the Banqueting House-The Chapel Royal-Rubens' Painted Ceiling-" Maunday Thursday-Ihe Statue of James II ' 361

Chapter XLVI. Whitehall And Its Historical Reminiscences

(continued). Whitehall forsaken as a Royal Residence-Partial Restoration of the Palace-The Cock-pit-Cromwell and Sir Roger L Estrange - Death of Oliver Cromwell— The Ultimate Fate of Cromwell's Body— The Exhumation discussed-Curious Record in an Old Parish Register- George Monk at the Cock-pit— Fashionable Life under the Stuarts-Cock-fighting— Defoe's Account— Its Prevalence in England . . 369

Chapter XLVII. Whitehall

- ITS PRECINCT, GARDENS, &C. 1 lie Privy Gardens and King Charles's curious Sun-dials— Name changed to Whitehall Gardens— Lady Hervey and Sir Thomas Robinson— Sir Robert Peel's House— Pembroke House and Gwydyr House-The Local Government Board— The Duchess of Portland's Museum of Sculpture— Montagu House— Richmond House— The Duke of Richmond's Gallery of Art— Richmond Terrace— Beating the Bounds- Cannon Row— The Civil Service Commission— Derby Court— Manchester Buildings— A Touching Incident in connection -with the Last Days of Charles L— Parliament Street— Messrs.JMichols' Printing-office— Assassination of Mr. Drummond— The Residence of Charles lames Fox— Whitehall Club— The Whitehall Evening Post— Curious House Signs 375

Chapter XLVIII. Whitehall

— THE WESTERN SIDE. Wallingford House— Pope's Lines on the Death-bed Scene of Villiers, Duke of Buckingham— Wallingford House converted into the Admiralty Office -The Semaphore Telegraph— Authority and Jurisdiction of the Admiralty— Career of Lord Sandwich at the Admiralty— Funeral of Lord Nelson— Anecdote of Mr. Croker— The Horse Guards— The Commander-in-Chiefs Department- Pennant's View of the Old Horse Guards— Dover House— The Treasury— Downing Street : its Political Associations, and Anecdotes of Former Occupants— The Old Foreign Office — The New Foreign, India, and Colonial Offices— Library ofthe India Office 3«:

Chapter XLIX. Westminster Abbey

— ITS EARLY HISTORY. Etymology of Westminster— A Startling Proposition— The Legend of St. Peter's Dedication of the First Abbey— The Building burnt by the Danes and restored by Ring Edgar— Rebuilt by Edward the Confessor— Death of Edward the Confessor — Additions and Alterations to the Abbey by Henry III. — Translation ofthe Body of Edward the Confessor— The Abbey damaged by Fire in 1297— Violation of the Right of Sanctuary — Completion of the Building — Funeral of Henry VII. — Surrender of the Abbey to Henry VIIL— The Eenedictine Rule restored by Queen Mary— The Abbey in the Days of its Glory under the Plantagenets 394

Chapter L. Westminster Abbey

— HISTORICAL CEREMONIES, &c. Coronation of William the Conqueror— Bad Auguries- Coronation of Richard I.— Outrage against the Jews— Coronation of Anne Boleyn — Revival of the "Old Religion " by Queen Mary — Relic of the True Cross — The present Collegiate Establishment founded by Queen Elizabeth— Funeral of James I. — Assaults on the Abbey — Coronation of Charles II. — Parliamentary Grants for the Repair of the Abbey — The Abbey damaged by an Earthquake— Coronation of George III. and Queen Charlotte— Humility of a King— The Handel Festivals — Origin of the National Anthem —Further Grants for the Repair of the Abbey — A Narrow Escape from Destruction by Fire — Coronation of George IV. — An Unfortunate Queen— Coronation of William IV. and Queen Adelaide— Coronation of Queen Victoria — A Singular Incident .•• , ••*•••••• 40 I

Chapter LI. Westminster Abbey

— A SURVEY OF THE BUILDING. Extent of the Abbey Possessions— Exterior Views of the Church— Dimensions of the Building— The West Front and Wren's Gothic Towers — The North Transept and "Solomon's Porch"— The Chapels— General Description of the South Side — Appearance of the Interior from the West Doorway -Churchill's Satirical Poem on the Tombs and Monuments— Pitt's Funeral- The Burial of Charles J. Fox, and his Monument— Vice-Admiral Tyrrell— Congreve, the Dramatist— Mrs. Oldfield— Secretary Craggs— The Poet Wordsworth — Robert Stephenson— Sir Charles Parry— George Feabody— David Livingstone— Sir C. Lyell— Sunday Evening Services . • • .411 CONTENTS. XIII CHAPTER LIT WESTMINSTER ABBEY.— THE CHOIR, TRANSEPTS, &c. PACE The Choir Screen— Monuments of Earl Stanhope and Sir Isaac Newton -Curious Monument of Thomas Thynnc, and the Story ofThynne'i Assassination— Admiral Sir Cloudesley Shovel— Major Andre— Sir Charles Carteret— The "Musicians' Corner"— The Choir— Dr. Busby's Pavement and his Wig — Abbot Ware's Mosaic Pavement — Portrait of RicharJ IT. — The Reredos — Discovery of Fragments ' of the Original Church — Monuments to Eminent Statesmen — Memorial Windows— Poets.'^Corner— Ben Jonson— Dryden— Handel- Milton— Gray — Matthew Prior — Old Parr— Charles Dickens— Goldsmith, and Dr. Johnson's Inscription — Spenser— Chaucer— Isaac Barrow— Addison's Reflections on Poets' Corner * 410

CHAPTER LI

1 1. WESTMINSTER ABBEY.— THE CHAPELS AND ROYAL TOMBS. Tomb of King Sebert— St. Benedict's Chapel — St. Edmund's Chapel — St. Nicholas's Chapel— Henry VIL's Chapel— The Royal Vault — An Authentic Ghost Story — Monument to Edward VI. — The Five Chapels — T'omb of Henry VII. and Queen — " Steenie " and his Funeral —Cromwell's La«t Resting-place— The Old Royal Vault— Monuments to Mary and Elizabeth— The Chapel of St. Paul— A Punning Epitaph — St. Edward's Chapel, or Chapel of the Kings— Chantry of Henry V. — Tomb of Edward III. — The Coronation Chairs- Opening a Royal Tomb— Shrine of Edward the Confessor — Islip's Chapel and "The Ragged Regiment" — The Chapels of St. John, St. Andrew, and St. Michael 43 1