Travels in the Atlas and Southern Morocco. A narrative of exploration

Front matter

■ ■ 1 ■ ■ I SI ■ -f ■ 1 ■ S ■ ■ ■ 1 ■ TRAVELS IN THE ATLAS AND SOUTHERN MOROCCO. TANGIER TRAVELS IN THK ATLAS AND SOUTHERN MOROCCO A NARRATIVE OF EXPLORATION BY JOSEPH THOMSON, F.R.G.S. GOLD MEDALIST OF THE ROYAL GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETY HON. MEMBER OF THE ROYAL SCOTTISH, THE MANCHESTER, ITALIAN, AND NETHERLANDS GEOGRAPHICAL SOCIETIES Author of "Through Masailand ,'* &c. LONDON GEORGE PHILIP & SON, 32 FLEET STREET, E.C. LIVERPOOL: 45 TO 51 SOUTH CASTLE STREET 1SS9 TO MY VERY DEAR ER1ENDS Dk. and Mrs. HUGH LOGAN CALDER Cbfs Œoofc IS DEDICATED BY THE AUTHOK.

Preface

. In introducing this book to the reader, little need be said. It is nothing more than what it pretends to be — a Personal Narrative of Exploration. It does not claim to be a book on Morocco, and consequently may appear in many respects to be very defective. To write such a book was originally my ambition when I turned my attention to that remarkable country, but the abrupt and premature conclusion of my travels has made me perforce alter my intention, and devote myself to re cording only something of what we saw and experienced in the parts in which we travelled. It has, moreover, been as much my object to sketch pictures as to chronicle facts. For the same reason this book has been made a personal narrative, with its inevitable frequent use of the first person singular or plural. To preserve the popular and handy character of the volume, much of general and scientific interest has been omitted, which will see the light through more appropriate channels.

Treatises on the geography, geology, and botany of PREFA CE. the Atlas would be as much out of place in a popular work, as would be the military notes of the energetic young officer who accompanied me, and, therefore, on such topics, except in a superficial manner, I am silent. It only remains for me to add that the illustrations of this book are from photographs taken by myself, with the exception of half-a-dozen kindly supplied to me by Mr. White, H.M. Consul at Tangier, and three others by unknown photographers, to whom I now beg to offer my apologies for making unauthorised use of their productions. It may be well to state that in the spelling of new proper names I have adopted the Italian vowel sounds. Edinburgh, April 1S89. CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Pages

Gibraltar to Tangier 1-9 Departure from Europe — Arrival in Tangier — A nightramble through the town— Condition of the streets — A Moorish cafe — A Jew's wedding.

Chapter II

Morning in Tangier 10-17 How I came to visit Morocco — Past history and present condition of the country — My companion. Lieutenant Harold Crichton-Browne — View of Tangier — A native school— Visit to the British Ambassador, Sir William Kirby Green.

Chapter III

A Stroll through Tangier 18-30 The inhabitants — The shops — The market-place — The Kasbah — A wedding-procession — A funeral — Residence of the Governor — Moorish decoration — View from the Marshan.

Chapter IV

Tangier to Azamor 31-43 Letter from the Sultan — Departure from Tangier — A stormy passage — Arrival at Casablanca — Departure for Azamor — Our soldier-guide — Fertility of the country — Kubas — Profusion of flowers — Camp near an Arab duar. CONTENTS. X

Chapter V

PAGE9 Azamor to Mogador 44-64 Native wells and water-wheels — Portuguese fortifications at Azamor — Mazagan — Portuguese remains — Kasbah of Northern Dukalla — Geological features of the country — Kasbah of Southern Dukalla — Mona — Metamores and misfires — Keception at Kasbah of Aissa — Kuskussu and Tajen — Night in the Kasbah — Departure for Saffi — Nearing the town — Mr. George Hunot, British Vice-Consul — Hawking — Departure for Mogador — Physical features of Shiedma — Akermut — First view of the Atlas — Mogador.

Chapter VI

Mogador 65-78 Delays — Kindness of Mr. Payton, British Consul, and of Mr. J. Louis Ratto — Climate of Mogador — The town — Its sewage system — The Mellah — The Mogador Jew — Procession in honour of Sidi Hamadsha — Moorish fanaticism.

Chapter VII

The Boar-Hunt 79-87 On the way to the hunting-ground — The Palm-tree House — Concert by the beaters — The hunting-party — On the scent — A false alarm — At bay — A disappointment —On the scent again — The coup de grace — The return home.

Chapter VIII

Through Shiedma to Saffi 88-1 11 A trial trip — Moorish adieux — Sand-dunes — Aspect of the country — Beginning of our troubles with our men — Their rapacity — Visit to the Kaid of Shiedma — Camp at Jebel Hadid — Ascent of the Iron Mountains — An evening with the Sheik of Takat — Exploration of disused iron-mines — Geological features — Zawias — Fording the Tensift — A blow for the mastery. CONTENTS. XI

Chapter IX. Pages

Saffi to the City of Morocco . . . . 112- 126 Rearrangement of our escort — The town of Saffi — The palace — The climate — Start for the interior — Province of Abda — Province of Bled Hummel — Fertility of the land — Poverty of the people — Panoramic view of the Atlas and the city of Morocco — Approach to the city — Arrival, and reception by the Governor.

Chapter X

Maraksh, or City of Morocco .... 127-139 A levee — A stroll through the city — First impressions — Arrival of a guide — Desertion 8f one of our men — Departure from the city — Route to Sidi Rehal — Irrigation channels — View of the Plain of Morocco and the Atlas Mountains. CHAPTER XT. Sidi Rehal to Demnat 140-153 Departure from Sidi Rehal — Tezert— The Wad Tessaout — The province of Srarna — Approach to Demnat — Reception — We array ourselves in Moorish costume — Interview with the Kaid — The Kaid's garden.

Chapter XII

Town and Valley of Demnat . . . . 154-173 The inhabitants — The Berbers or Shellach — Dress of the women — The Mellah — Prevalence of ophthalmic diseases — Visit to Iminifiri, "the big cave" — Geological features of the valley of Demnat — Remains of the Rum or early Christians — Ascent of Irghalnsor — Elevation of the Atlas at this point. CONTENTS. XII

Chapter XIII. Tages

Tasimset. ' . * . ' 174-190 Visit to Tasimset proposed — Objections of the Kaid — A row among our men — Features of the road to Tasimset — Waterfall and caves at Tasimset — Jewish method of baking bread — A Jewish interior — Berber villages— Ascent of Tazaroch.

Chapter XIV

The Glen of the Wad Gadat .... 191-203 Reception at Tezert — Enzel and the Wad el Mulha — Ascent of the Gadat glen —Difficulties of the pathway — Camp at Zarktan.

Chapter XV

Across the Tizi-n-Teluet 204-222 Desolation of mountain scenery— Jebel Glauwi — Ascent of the pass — Sure-footedness of the mules — The mountaineers — Titula — Evidences of glacial action — View from head of the pass — Geological features — Valley and Kasbah of Teluet — A mountain welcome — The Kaid of Glauwa — We present the Sultan's letter.

Chapter XVI

The Kasbah of Teluet 223-240 Machinations of our men — Moorish immorality — The Kaid's attendants and menage — Life at the Kasbah — Elevation and climate of Teluet — The "Anti- Atlas " — Caves of the Rum — Tabugumt — Fight among our men. CONTENTS. XIII

Chapter XVII. Pages

Ascent of Taurirt . . . . . . 241-254 Geological and other features of the route — Elevation of the peak and of the Atlas — A malade imaginaire— Atlas Jews — " Protection " — Costume of mountain Jews — Child-wives.

Chapter XVIII

Incidents of Life at Teluet .... 255-273 A Moorish holiday — A native dance— The onlookers — We prepare to leave Teluet — Obstacles to exploration — Our men again to blame— Attacked by religions fanatics — A Moorish feast.

Chapter XIX

Teluet to Amsmiz 274-284 Return to the Plain — Traces of glacial action — Other geological peculiarities — Iminzet to Amsmiz — Situation and population of Amsmiz — Experiments with aneroid and boiling-point thermometer — The Jews of Amsmiz — Child-marriages.

Chapter XX

Glen of the Wad Amsmiz 285-299 Ascent of the glen — Our camp — More remains of the Rum — Blue daisies — Imintella — Performance by snake-charmers.

Chapter XXI

Gindafy 300-319 Second crossing of the Atlas — Geological features — Jebel Tezah — Ascent of the Tizi Nemiri — View from the pass — Elevation — Mountains of Wishdan — Red sandstone — Descent on Gindafy — Cold reception by the Kaid — Crichton-Browne stung by a scorpion — Good workmanship and its reward — Glen of the Wad Agandice — Mountain ascent — Glen of the Wad Nyfis — Return to Amsmiz. CONTENTS. XIV

Chapter XXII. Pages

Marossa and the Asif el Mel .... 3:0-327 Amsmiz to the Asif el Mel — Development of cretaceous rocks at Marossa — A bad night — Glen of the Wad Erght — A terminal moraine — Camp by the Wad Erduz.

Chapter XXIII

The Ascent of Jebel Ogdimt .... 328-345 Protestations of escort — The ascent commenced — Above the clouds — The Tizi Nslit— The landscape — Berber villages— Camp by the Wad Nyfis— Attitude of the mountaineers — A difficult climb — View of the Sus valley and the glen of the Nyfis — Robbers in the path — Other obstacles — The summit reached — View of the Atlas and the Sus valley — Elevation- Return to Amsmiz — Wrath of the Governor.

Chapter XXIV

Maraksh 346-369 Return to the city — View from the house-tops — The houses — The minarets — The Kutubia — The walls — Population — The Kasbah, Medinah, and Mellah — Ruined buildings — Mosque of the Kutubia — Mosque of Abdul Aziz — The gateways — The palace — Difficulties in obtaining photographs — The fountains — The business quarter — The bazaars — The workshops — The fundaks — The Kaseria — The markets — Native entertainments in the market-place.

Chapter XXV

Life in Maraksh 370-392 The excessive heat — Cost of living — A Moorish house — The harem — House decoration and furniture — Degeneracy of modern Moorish art and its causes — Social position of women — Itinerant musicians — A Moorish interior — Moorish women at home — Their dress and appearance —The Hammum— Shampooing a Jew — Moorish dancing-women. CONTENTS. XV

Chapter XXVI. Pages

The Aid-el-Kebir 393-413 Gathering of Kaids to do homage to the Sultan — Maraksh en fete — The scene outside the walls — The Viceroy — The religious ceremony — The sacrifices — The state function — Reception of the Kaids — A fanatical crowd — Stoning the Christians — Lab el Barud or powder-play — Feats on horseback — An example of Moorish justice.

Chapter XXVII

This Jews . 414-428 Reputed galling restrictions under which they live — Their actual comparative exemption from such — Their usury — Their mercantile spirit — Their dwelling's — Over-crowding — Jewish hospitality — Religion — Former persecutions.

Chapter XXVIII

The Housii-Tors _ . . 429-443 View of the Atlas — Night in Maraksh — Domestic discord — "A piece of her mind " — The call to prayers — Mohammedanism in Morocco — Moorish system of government — Sale of "protections" — Europeans in Morocco — Prospects of the Empire.

Chapter XXIX

Urika 444-455 Another maladc imag huiire — Final departure from Maraksh — Arrival at Achliz — Ascent of the Urika glen — Meeting with the Kaid — " To arms " — An effectual barrier — We beat a retreat — A lavish bill of fare — Return to Achliz — Glen of the Wad Reraya. CONTENTS. XVI

Chapter XXX. Pages

The Ascent of the Tizi Likumpt . . . 456-467 Glen of the Wad Iminnen — Its desolation — Its inhabitants — Tashdirt — Ascent of the mountain — We reach our highest point in the Atlas — The Tizi-n- Tamjurt — Mountain tarn of Ifri — A native superstition — Boycotted — Return to Asni — Asni to Imintanut — A slave caravan — Winnowing corn.

Chapter XXXI

Through Sus to the Coast .... 468-4S4 We set out for Sus — Anarchy in the province of Mtuga — A scene with our men — The Wad Isserato — Sok in the glen of Msira — The end of the Atlas range — The "Bur j Anserrani" — Mountains of Ida Uziki and Ida Mhamud— The province of Sus — The Howara in revolt — Reception at the Kasbah of Msgina — Agadir — Agadir to Casablanca — Departure for England. Index 485-488 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 3full page Jllustrations. I. Tangier ........ Frontispiece Street Scene, Tangier facing page 4 .;. A Sok or Market ,, -' 4. Saffi from the North „ „ 5S 5. Street in Kasbah, Mogador . . „ „ 68 6. MOGADOR FROM THE SOUTH , „ 80 7. Geoup, Top of Jebel Hadid ...„,, 106 8. Sultan's Palace, Saffi ,114 9. Street in Maraksh „ ,,129 10. Fountain in Moeocco „ „ 131 11. Demnat „ 161 12.

Camp in Olive Grove „ „ 189 13. Adear-n-Iei and Glen leading to Tizi-n-Teluet,, „ 205 14. Kasbah, Teluet „ „ 215 15. " Dinnee Ready" , 268 16. Amsmiz ., 2S2 17. Jewish Child-Wives, Amsmiz ... „ „ 284 18. Wad Nyfis, East of Camp, Gindafy . . „ „ 31S 19. Jebel Ogdimt feom the Tizi Nslit . . „ „ 332 20. View of Moeocco feom the Housetop . „ ., 347 21. Mosque of the Kutubia .... „ 353 22. Entrance to One of the Business Quarters, Maraksh „ „ 361 23. Our Quabtees, Maraksh , „ 373 24. Women at the Door of the Harem . . „ „ 374 25. David Assor, Shalum, a_nd Jews of Maraksh „ ,,417 26. Jewesses, Maraksh „ „ 420 27. Mouth of the Wad, Urika Glen . . „ „ 446 28. Village in Urika Glen .... „ 448 29. Tashdirt, Wad Iminnen .... „ 461 30. Jews, Asni „ 465 31. Moorish Guns, Daggers, and Powder-Horns „ ,,484 LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS.

XVIII Jlluetratlcme in Œeit. Small TAGE PAGE Waiting for Dinner . • 269 Boy and Beggar . . 30 Our Soldier-Guide . . 34 Kasbah, Gindafy . - 3°8 The Cloud Scene, Tizi Nslit 330 Water Wheel ... 45 Market-Place, Azamor . 47 Jew of Mogador . . 69 Woman, Out-Door Costume 74 Brass Tray, Mogador . 87 Camp in Olive Grove . 9S Court in Palace, Saffi . 115 H. Crichton-Browne . . 121 The Walls of Morocco . 349 Entrance to Palace Court . 355 A Potter's Shop . . 359 A Moorish Audience . . 368 Leather Tea-Tray Mat . 369 Itinerant Musician . . 379 In Disguise . . . 387 Moorish Girl . . .132 Water Carrier . . -394 Faces in the Crowd . . 403 C.-B. in Moorish Dress . 149 Garden in Kaid's House . 151 Powder-Play . . • 4°S Mellah . . . . 15S The Kutubia . . . 4'3 Mountain Village . .186 Among the Gardens, Maraksh443 Daggers, Powder-Horn, and Ornaments . . .190 Powder-Horn and Bullet- Pouches .... 455 Zarktan .... 202 Village in the Glen of the Wad Iminnen . . 459 Daggers and Powder-Horn 240 Atlas Jews . . . 249 Winnowing Corn . . 466 Æiapa. 1.

Physical Map of South-Western Morocco, showing Authoe's Route .... facing page 1 2. Geological Map of South-Westeen Moeocco „ „ 4S8 3. Steait of Gibraltae page 2 4. Route feom Rabat to Saffi ,,36 5. Routes in the Central Atlas , 287 6. Plan of Morocco „ m GEORGE PHILIP AND SON, I.0NU0N AND LIVER.PO0L. MOROCCO.

Chapter I. Gibraltar To Tangier

At mid-day, on the 17th of March 1888, we were still in Gibraltar, still on the threshold of Europe. We were wandering through lanes and streets whose English names seemed as much out of place as did the blue-costumed policemen and red-coated soldiers among the swarthy Gibraltarians and black-eyed Spanish girls. At every step we could not but be aware that we were still under the British flag. We saw much to interest and delight us^much to in struct ; but we could not feel at rest while the current swept Straits lay between us and our more immediate goal, Morocco. As the sun began to decline towards the west, we found ourselves on the turbulent stretch of blue waters. Europe was now behind us, and Africa, with all its promised joys, in front. Once fairly clear of the protecting headlands, there was a short period of A MOROCCO. 2 " tremendous motion " and " rueful throes," and then Africa received us in her sheltering arms.

The sun was nearing the horizon as we steamed into the little Bay of Tangier. The town, however, we could not see, strain as we might ; for just beyond it hung the sun, shedding a dazzling flood of light like a marvellous aureole over its every feature, and effectually hiding it from our infidel gaze. Only for a few moments, however ; for speedily we steamed into the shadow of the hills, and, as if by enchantment, the town sprang into view, cradled in a niche of the hillside which bounds the western aspect of the little bay. There indeed it lay, a thing of beauty to us, in all the glamour of its Oriental architecture ; its otherwise dazzling white washed walls toned down by the soft evening shadows, GIBRALTAR TO TANGIER. 3 though every detail of house or mosque stood out sharp and clear in the pure atmosphere.

We had barely time to review the general impres sion conveyed by the scene when we became aware that the little steamer had stopped, and the rattling of the anchor-chains brought us back to the more prac tical necessities of the moment. Scarcely had we taken up a watchful attitude beside our baggage before the steamer was surrounded by boats, and in a twinkling Negro, Berber, Moor, and Spaniard were scrambling on board, bent on taking possession of the persons and impedimenta of pas sengers. For a moment I allowed myself to be entranced by the (to me) not unpleasant gabble and scramble. The Arab gutturals and pigeon-English brought back many memories of East and West Africa, and the constantly recurringname of " Allah " sounded sweet and musical, and altogether seemly, after the sharp significance of its English equivalent, as we are accustomed to hear it under similar circumstances.

But while I stood and dreamed I was not asleep. On seeing some friendly Moors put unauthorised hands upon our belongings, the old spirit of command (which had been developed in me as leader of several African caravans) instinctively leapt up, and with wild whoop I sprang among the noisy crew and drove them forth till I saw it necessary to utilise their services. A few minutes later we were landed on the shore of Africa — not, however, Africa as I had known it else- MOROCCO. where, black, barbarous, and breechless, but Africa Orientalised, in which the Negro and the European alike seemed extraneous elements. A slight inspection sufficed to pass our baggage before the grave and dignified Moors who sat as cus toms-inspectors at the water-gate of the town, and then, with eyes now watchfully directed towards our little caravan of porters, anon taking note of passing Moor, Jew, and Gentile, we wended our way up a rising winding lane, till we found ourselves at the doorway of the Continental Hotel, and passing in, were once more in Europe, with all that phrase implies in regard to the good things of this life which minister to the body.

A couple of hours later we were sitting in the cool corridor sipping our coffee in the most approved civilised fashion, watching the movements of visitors, and catching now and then a glint of local colour in the shape of picturesquely-dressed native waiters, an im pudent little Jew guide in Tunisian costume, and the amply dressed and portly form of his Moorish com panion. But we did not feel contented. What came we out for to see ? we asked each other. Not this certainly. We felt we could not possibly sleep that night in peace unless we had sought out some adventure or seen something thoroughly Moorish to dream about. Visitors had been seen to leave the hotel myste riously, headed by a guide and a lantern. Here was something to go upon.- We also called for a guide STREET SCENE, TANGIER. Page 4.

GIBRALTAR TO TANGIER. 5 and a lantern, and sallied forth into the unlighted streets of Tangier. We soon learned that the lantern was an important adjunct to night-rambles in a Moorish town, lessening the risk of unpleasant shocks to head or feet, or un wished-for contact with disagreeable sewage-scented puddles and dead dogs and cats. These, however, in our fresh enthusiasm, were considered so thoroughly Eastern and in harmony with things Moorish, that we raised not our voices against them. Indeed, I verily believe we should have complained had we found the streets thoroughly clean, and had not occasionally stumbled against some malodorous dead animal. Be that as it may, there was no doubt as to what was the real thing in Moorish street amenities, and we found ourselves kept continually on the alert, looking after head and feet.

When we sallied forth, it was yet too early in the evening to find adventures. There were too many people in the streets, too many glowworm-like lanterns lighting up the darkness. We therefore made for a Moorish cafe, which, as a rule, is the first, and not uncommonly the last glimpse that European visitors get of Moorish life. The cafe we found to be a very poor place, decorated with gaudily-coloured brackets and some cheap mirrors and prints. We felt quite insulted on being offered chairs to sit upon, and waved them haughtily away with " Baraka ! baraka ! " which we had been told was the right way to decline with thanks. The coffee- MOROCCO. grounds and warm water put us into better humour. We tried hard to enjoy the terrific din raised by a band of musicians, who, with an accompaniment of tomtoms, violins, pipes, and hand-clapping, howled out a song which apparently required many contortions of the face and much raising of the eyes to heaven to bring out the due effect.

That we did not altogether succeed may have been due to a presentiment that this was not the genuine article — as neither it was — the music being Jewish and Spanish. As a rule, however, everybody goes away from such an entertainment im mensely delighted, satisfied that he or she knows now what Moorish music is like. After an interval sufficiently long to enable us to take in the situation, we felt that the time had come to seek something more stirring, and muffling our forms in imaginary cloaks, we left the cafe. The lanes were now nearly deserted. Only here and there a light appeared glimmering in the distance, dancing about like a will-o'-the-wisp. On nearer approach, a figure in sepulchral cerements becomes vaguely outlined behind the light, looking like a ghost in search of his tomb — so slow and measured the step, so weird the effect of the white dress and drapino-.

Anxious to be friendly, while improving our Arabic, we saluted such passers with " Peace be with you," but hearing no reply, concluded that our Arabic was not, as yet, " as she is spoke." At various places we heard sounds of mirth and music, and stopped to listen and watch for whatever GIBRALTAR TO TANGIER. 7 might turn up. But no black-faced slave accosted us in mysterious fashion and invited us to follow him to — well, anywhere. One musn't ask questions when on the search for adventures. We were fast becoming rather tired of our wander ings, and, in the absence of anything to excite the fancy or quicken the pulses, we were inclined to vote the whole thing " slow," when suddenly a pronounced sound of revelry struck refreshingly on our ears. We at once held a council of war with our guide, from whom we learned that a Jewish wedding was being celebrated, and that the parties would feel honoured by our presence.

Being assured that our appearance would not be considered an unwarrantable intrusion, we passed the word, " Bismillah ! " and moved forward. Traversing a narrow passage, we boldly pushed our way, till suddenly we found ourselves in a small patio or court in the centre of the house, round which ran galleries giving entrance to the various rooms, thus securing both ventilation and privacy. The patio on this occasion was brilliantly lighted up with lamp and candle, displaying a crowd of young Spanish Jews smoking the eternal cigarette, while an open door revealed an interesting bevy .of black-eyed women. Our unannounced appearance was greeted by a sud den cessation of the conversation, and for a moment tobacco-smoke ceased to curl upwards. All eyes were turned upon us. An awkward moment ensued.

We began to think our guide had deceived us, and were about to retire with apologies, when a young lady, MOROCCO. apparently an attendant spirit of the house, hurried up, and with engaging frankness saluted us with " Bon jonr." We replied with extreme cordiality, and, nothing loath, allowed ourselves to be led into the room beyond, where my young friend was soon blushing happily among the bright faces and scintillating eyes of the circle of damsels who massed themselves around us. We speedily felt quite at our ease — my friend the cynosure of every black eye, and I myself, in the role of a philosophical observer of mature years, finding amusement in watching the disgusted faces of the young Jews and the animated manners and ample charms of the Jewesses. Unable to resist our tempters, we drank cup after cup of highly sweetened tea.

Our conversation was of an embarrassingly polyglot character, French, Spanish, and English phrases being used with a delightful dis regard of their meaning. But what did it matter while smiles, laughter, and bright glances kept everybody happy — except, of course, the young men out in the cold of the patio. At length, across the pleasant din sounded the twanging notes of a guitar, and a general movement showed that these were the signal for a dance. Forgetting my character as merely " a chiel amang them takin' notes," oblivious also of the mature years I have alluded to, I was on my feet in an instant, and bending in respectful salutation to the ground before a plump maiden. Ere my astonished companion reco- GIBRALTAR TO TANGIER. 9 vered his surprise, or the lady's countrymen their breath, I was whirling round in a waltz.

Polkas followed, and everything went as merrily and decorously as could be desired. We did not, however, stop there. In the interval of a dance my friend proposed that we should go through the steps of a reel, "just to show them a thing or two, you know." At first I made a feeble attempt at remonstrance, but at that moment the guitarist struck up something which had a distant resemblance to a Scotch tune, and almost before I knew, I was facing C.-B. and throwing my legs about in all the abandon of the dance, not forgetting to give character and life to it by the inspiring " hooch " that helps to stir the blood of Scottish lads and lasses. Needless to say our terpsichorean efforts were received with applause and undisguised admiration, and we retired to our seats in blushing triumph, amidst which, resuming the grave character which sat more naturally upon me, I wondered at the fortuitous concourse of circumstances which had landed us at a Jew's wedding in Africa to dance a reel.

Chapter II. Morning In Tangier

When I awoke next morning it was still dark. Through the latticed shutters and open window of my bedroom a delicious breeze found its way. While I lay trying to realise where I was and gather my scattered thoughts back from their dream wanderings, my attention was arrested by certain sounds which suddenly burst upon the stillness of the morning, and came to my ears in rich Arabic gutturals and long-drawn musical cadence. My knowledge of Arabic was of the slightest, but I had not travelled in Mohammedan countries without picking up some knowledge of their ways and customs and I knew at once that I was listening to the Mueddin calling the faithful to their morning spiritual duty. "Prayer is better than sleep! Prayer is better than sleep ! Come to prayers ! Come to prayers ! " Such was the burthen of the soul-stirring cry, which, ema nating from the minaret of the neighbouring mosque, vibrated over " the city protected by the Lord," and rang in my ears with an overpowering attraction and impressiveness.

As I lay and listened to the long-drawn syllables of the summons, I could not but recall the time when I last heard them. It was in the Central Sudan and the very heart of Africa. Negro races surrounded me, and the land lay parched and desolate under the burning brilliancy of a tropical sun. To that far-off region Islam had penetrated, and finding suitable fuel, had caught fire and blazed with all the vigour of its early days in the deserts of Arabia, bringing in its wake new life and energy, and the seeds of civilisation. There also it was that the desire to visit Morocco first took root in my heart. On all sides I had remarked the impress of Moorish ideas, in manners and customs, and in the character of arts and industries. I knew that for centuries traders from Morocco had continued to cross the desert, braving all its unparalleled hardships and terrors, to carry to the natives of the Sudan such good things of this world as they themselves possessed, and spread before them promises of the infinitely greater and more glorious things of another if they would but acknow ledge the One God and His Prophet, at the same time threatening them with all the terrors of Gehenna if they turned not from their evil ways.