Eleven Years in Central South Africa ... With portrait, map, and ... illustrations

Front matter

CROSSING THE VAAL RIVER. ELEVEN YEARS IN CENTRAL SOUTH AFRICA: A JOURNEY INTO THE INTERIOR SKETCH OF RECENTLY DISCOVERED DIAMOND AND GOLD FIELDS UMZILIKAZI, HIS COUNTRY AND PEOPLE -A BRIEF HISTORY OF THE ZAMBESI MISSIONS. BY THOMAS MORGAN THOMAS, OF THE LONDON MISSIONARY SOCIETY. WITH PORTRAIT, MAP, AND NUMEROUS ILLUSTRATIONS. LONDON: JOHN SNOW AND CO., PATERNOSTER ROW. CARDIFF: JAMES WOOD, BUTE DOCKS. j. wood's STEAM PRINTING WORKS, BUTE DOCKS, CARDIFF. DEDICATION. TO THE SUBSCRIBERS AND SUPPORTERS OF THE LONDON MISSIONARY SOCIETY, æ&is §00h Is affectionately offered as an expression of the Author's admi ration of the interest they have taken in the welfare of the heathen nations of Africa, with the hope that their sympathy with the perishing millions of that dark continent may be con tinued. THOMAS MORGAN THOMAS. Cardiff, December,

Preface

. When some friends of mine, shortly after my arrival in England, in April last year, invited me to give to the public a narrative of my African life and labours, I had no intention of undertaking such a work. But events have recently happened which have induced me to carry out their suggestion. The completion of the work has been unavoidably delayed some months longer than was at first anticipated. Presuming that the reader is already acquainted with the Cape Colony, the Free State, and the Trans vaal Republic, he is merely introduced to those por tions of Southern Africa, which he meets with on his way to the more remote and less known regions. A brief sojourn at a station, or among a people in Africa, is insufficient for the acquisition of such an acquaintance with them, as would enable one, with anything like accuracy, to describe them.

The missionaries who have long laboured in the Griqua and Bechuana lands, are much better able to tell their own stories than a comparative stranger can possibly be, and therefore I have not attempted to enter into particulars respecting them. On reading the works of African Missionaries and Travellers, I have felt that the classification of objects, and thorough elucidation of the subjects referred to, have frequently been wanting, and being convinced that an improvement in these respects would greatly vi add to the usefulness of a work like the present, I have endeavoured to supply the deficiency. A thorough acquaintance with the history, customs, habits, pursuits, country, government, and superstitions of a heathen nation is essential, in order rightly to enter upon the work of mission enterprise. ' I have given much attention to these subjects in this volume.

An account of a journey to the Zambesi river ; a brief history of each of the Missions established on its banks ; and the result of intercourse of the natives with foreigners — with the present state and prospects of the Amandebele — are given in the closing chapters. I beg to offer my sincerest thanks to my friend T. Baines, Esq., F.R.G.S., for his great kindness in placing at my disposal his maps, journals, and sketches, as well as to several other gentlemen, for making valuable suggestions in relation to printing and publishing. T. M. T. LIST OF ILLUSTRATIONS. 1. Crossing the Vaal River Frontispiece. 2. Author's Portrait To face page 3 3. Young Ilindebele Soldier. — Amandebele Commander-in-chief — 59 4. Mr. Thomas surrounded by Lions — 95 5. Lion Hunting - — 96 6. The King presenting an Ox to the lion killer — 97 7.

Laughing Hyena. — Wild Boar — 99 8. Elephants Feeding — 101 9. Mr. Thomas tossed by a Rhinoceros — 104 10. Buffalo Hunting — 107 11. Izinkolomi Antelopes. — Eland — 112 12. Bless Buck. — Red Buck — 114 13. Qualata Antelope.- — Black Gnu — 115 14. Mr. Thomas pursued by a Snake — 124 15. Snake coiled round Mr. Thomas's legs ... — 125 16. Amandebele Men — 170 17. Amakalanga Girls. — Amandebele Women and Children — 172 18. Mochuana Servant. — Herd Boy — 184 19. Removing to new quarters — 192 21. King's Jester. — Amaswma Chief — 202 21. Coronation of King Ulopengule — 234 22. The King superintending the spearing of Oxen — 236 23. King Ulopengule and his Attendants — 239 24. Crocodile.— Black Wolf — 293 25. The Mission Station at Inyati — 309 26. Amandebele Soldiers taking Captives into Slavery — 327 27.

A native saved from an Elephant — 369 28. Rhinoceros and Calf. — Rhinoceros hunting .. . — 388 29. Sawing up the fuel log — 402 30. Amaswina Market — 403 31. Mr. Thomas preaching to a thousand natives — 414 32. Repairing the wagon wheels — CONTENTS

Chapter I

Departure — Pleasant Voyage Incidents — Novel Sight — Reception in South Africa — Excellent plan of a Town — South African Market — Scenery and Life — Business and Religion — Preparations for Overland Travelling — Sir George Grey — First experience of Ox Wagon Life — Proper Halting Place — Friendly Visit — Wellington — Dutch Church — Bain's Kloof — Baboons — The Karroo — The end of the First Stage — Beaufort West — Change in the order of Travelling — Drought — Dutch Farmers — Then Religion — Hope Town — Good News appreciated. The details of a missionary's life in foreign lands cannot always abound with incidents of romantic in terest, or of thrilling adventure. His aim respects neither scientific research nor mercantile profit ; he desires, with the great apostle of the Gentiles, to know nothing among men save Jesus Christ and Him crucified.

Still, unless he pass along strangely unobservant of the scenes which meet his eye, or of his fellow men with whom he converses, there will be much in his simple narrative to interest those who would form an idea of missionary life as in reality it ie. For such the following pages are written, based on journals penned at the time, and reproducing the impressions which were then made upon the writer's mind. On the preliminaries of our voyage, it will not be needful to enter at length. Ordained on the 11th of May, 1858, at Cwmbach, Aberdare, and accompanied B VOYAGE. by a gentle and devoted wife, whose desire from child hood had been mission work in heathen lands, I bade adieu to the mountains of Wales. A day's journey brought us to our temporary lodging in London, where we met three other young missionaries — Messrs. M'Kenzie, Price, and Sykes, and their wives, also destined for central South Africa.

The few days during our stay in London, were spent in survey ing its wonders and making preparations for our long journey. Before leaving the metropolis, as usual on such occasions, we met the directors of our Society, who gave us weighty and sound counsels, and who in earnest prayer commended us and our important un dertaking to the providential care and rich grace of our Divine Lord and Master. On the 5th of June, we embarked on board the mail steamer " Athens," at Southampton, and the next day lost sight of our native land. For a week we could discover nothing but the heavens above, the apparently endless blue ocean around, and a fish now and then lifting its head out of its liquid home. On the 12th, we passed Porto Santo, and were reminded of the two Spaniards, who, as they were endeavouring to cross the Atlantic to America, were driven by a storm out of their course, and finding them selves upon this island, called it the Holy Port.

We had scarcely lost sight of Porto Santo before Madeira was seen. Discovered in 1344 by R. Mochin, this island, volcanic in its origin, lovely in its scenery, and remarkably balmy in its atmosphere, has become a favourite resort, and often the last resting place of CAPE OF GOOD HOPE. pulmonary patients. Passing between the Canaries, the Peak of Teneriffe lifting its head 12,182 feet above the ocean, was seen from a great distance, the only historic reminiscence being the defeat of Nelson in 1797, at Santa Cruz, and the subsequent loss of his arm. After a voyage of thirty-eight days from South ampton, we were cheered by the sight of the long looked for Cape of Good Hope, and the prospect of speedy deliverance from our floating prison. Nearing the land, the high mountains in the distance became more distinct, while one especially attracted our notice as apparently overhanging its base, threatening to crush any who might approach.

Rounding the Lion's Rump, upon which the signal station of Cape Town for shipping is planted, we soon anchored in Table Bay, whence we had the first view of the capital of Southern Africa, with its rectangular and open streets and white flat-roofed and low houses, nestling on a slope formed by the mountains, by which on the west, south, and east, it is sheltered and almost surrounded. We had scarcely surveyed the novel sight presented to us by Cape Town and the lofty mountains in its vicinity, when a number of small boats, manned by Malays and others, surrounded the "Athens." Great was my mortification in attempting to converse with them, to find that the few Dutch words and phrases which, during the voyage, I had gathered from the Bible and grammar, were of little use. From two of these boats, however, two gentlemen B CAPE TOWN. stepped on board, whose kind greetings and hearty welcomes gave us very great pleasure.

They were the Revs. R. Moffat, of the Kuruman, and W. Thompson, Cape Town. The latter had come to lead us to his house, where we were to remain during our stay there, and the former was to be our guide up the country. On shore were other kind friends, among whom were the excellent Mrs. Moffat, of the Kuruman, and her daughter, Mrs. Livingstone, ready, as soon as we left the boat, warmly to welcome us to our adopted land. As we passed through the town, we greatly admired the plan on which it is built. Its streets straight, long, and broad, with its houses roomy and white washed, formed a pleasing and unexpected contrast to those in many of the large towns of England. By this arrangement, the breezes alike from the mountains and the sea sweep from one end of the town to the other, while the rain water from the slopes of Table Mountain washes all the impurities of the place into Table Bay.

On the same plan all the towns and villages in the colony — in fact, all the settlements of Europeans in South Africa — are laid out. The advantages resulting from this arrangement are obvious. Having bid adieu, without regret, to the restless and shaky " Athens," we were hospitably entertained by the Rev. W. Thompson, at whose house, overlooking Table Bay, we were to remain whilst making preparations for our long journey into the interior. It is no fulsome flattery to say that in Mr. and Mrs. Thompson, with their dear children, we saw a model family ; nor could there have been a happier company than that SOUTH AFRICAN MARKET. which they and their guests formed, in July and August, 1858. Their house was indeed a place of rest and refreshment for travelling missionary families. But although we had now left the rocking steamer, and had solid earth under our feet, still the motion of the vessel had so impressed our nervous system, that we felt ourselves moving, now and then, for many days afterwards.

We had not been long in Africa before marking the many differences between its life and that of England. Rising very early one morning, soon after my arrival at Mr. Thompson's house, I discovered on the other side of the street, and between me and the bay, in an open square, a large number of horse, mule, and ox wagons, laden with corn and various kinds of vegetables and fruits. " Where do these come from," I enquired of a young friend. " Oh ! " said he, " they come from all parts of the country. They belong to farmers, some of whom have come fifty miles or more with the produce of their lands for sale. They generally enter the suburbs of the city in the evening of the previous day, and early in the morning they come forward to the market place, where all such articles as they have are sold by auction, between six and eight a.m." To see a number of small fires strewed all over the open space, a tea-kettle or a frying-pan on each, a large dog on one side, and a coloured man or two lying down on the other, was quite a novel sight to me ; and so were the long teams of fourteen or sixteen oxen, and the whip eight or ten yards long; and as these were all to be come familiar to me, I surveyed them with some care, TABLE MOUNTAIN. and no little interest.

There were many interesting spots to be visited from Cape Town. The chief of these seemed to be, the tree-embowered village of Wynberg; the Constantia farms, where were noble vine yards ; and the beautiful Dutch villages of Stellenbosch, and the Paarl. But our ambition was to climb the Lion's Hill, and Table Mountain (3,582 feet high). Accordingly, some kind friends inviting us to ascend the highest and largest of the neighbouring mountains in their company, we readily assented, and after a hard pull of some hours, we reached its lofty and broad plateau. The atmosphere was clear, not only enabling us to enjoy the prospect, but also rendering our position one of safety. The extent of the platform, with its almost perpendicular sides and hidden paths, makes it very perilous and bewildering if a cloud cover the mountain, nor is it an uncommon thing for those who ascend to lose their way and their lives when enveloped in the fog.

After a little rest and some refreshment, we cau tiously neared the precipitous side overlooking Cape Town, whence we had a view of the bay, with its ever moving and busy scene of boats and vessels. On our left was the Lion's Hill, with the shipping signal station upon a commanding part of it, and yonder, some ten miles away, as if floating in the bay, was Robben Island, used as an infirmary for lunatics. On our right stretched the Cape flats, with some parts of the southern chain of the mountains of the colony appear ing beyond them. Under us was Cape Town, now wonderfully diminished in size, and especially in the ENVIRONS OF CAPE TOWN. 9 height of its buildings and trees. Turning round, and advancing some little distance towards the west, we had the South Atlantic Ooean washing the rocks at the foot of the mountain about 1,200 yards below us.

Walking about a mile towards the east, we arrived at a spot from which we had a view of the villages of Rondebosch, Claremont, and Wynberg, with the ex tensive and beautiful vineyards of Constantia. We were struck with the large number of trees covering these suburban places, but did not know until after wards how useful they were, both to protect the beautiful cottages and villas from the winter storm, and the immense sand showers so often seen there, as well as to shade them, together with the streets and gardens, from the scorching rays of the summer sun. Beautiful above all the other objects now before us were the silver trees, which covered the eastern and northern sides of this part ofthe mountain. More recently I ascended the Lion's Hill, and from its summit had a much better view of Cape Town and its immediate environs than I had from the more elevated position on Table Mountain.

From this point, the regularity of the streets, the noble buildings, the majestic and numerous fir and oak planta tions, the large vineyards, and fruitful gardens in the back ground, formed a very pleasing scene; beyond which, towering to the very clouds, and as a mighty wall of nature, protecting the whole from the intrusion of the enemy and the inclemency of the south-eastern winds and storms, and often with a cap of fog on its head, was Table Mountain. To the south of us was the CAPE TOWN COMMUNITY. Lion's Head, lifted very high, and in many places clothed with the beautiful silver tree, while on the west ern and northern sides of us, with the aid of an opera glass, a better view of the pretty villas and gardens, with other objects of interest and beauty which extend along the coast from Cape Town round Green Point, was obtained.

Scattered over the country were numerous windmills whirling round their huge and clumsy arms in the breeze. And although these seemed to indicate that the district was behind the age, we were assured that in the town we should find in its various steam mills, foundries, and printing machines; hat, soap and candle manufactories, abundant evidence of intelligent and scientific progress. Upon enquiry, we found the number of inhabitants of Cape Town to be about 30,000, made up of Eu ropeans, Americans, Malays, and South Africans. With a community composed of more than a dozen nations, and speaking as many languages, having a great variety of religious beliefs, we were agreeably surprised to witness so much order, decorum, and morality. The love of money did not seem to be so intense there as in England; business did not appear to absorb men's minds so completely as in our native country.

The Lord's Day was more strictly observed than at home, and there seemed to be a very kindly feeling existing between the various protestant religious bodies. This good feeling was nourished by the ministers of the various denominations meeting together for prayer and a social breakfast at the house SIR GEORGE GREY. of each other at regular intervals. I attended two of these meetings, and formed a very high opinion of their value to sustain and promote brotherly love and spiritual strength among Christians. The Rev. William Thompson, the minister of the Congrega tional Church, was in the habit of inviting the teachers of the Sunday schools connected with his church, to his house for similar objects ; and by meeting thus with one another, and with their faithful and excellent minister, the hearts of these young people were knit together and enlarged, and their minds were enlightened and trained for the work of teaching, in which they were engaged.

Our departure from Cape Town was somewhat delayed on account of the Rev. H. Helmore, who was to be one of our leaders into the interior, also by the making of some of our wagons, and the purchase of draught oxen. The six weeks spent there, however, afforded us ample time to prepare for our long journey, while we gained an insight into colonial life, and also made many friends. Our kind host presented us to His excellency, Sir George Grey, the governor of the colony, who took much interest in christian missions, and showed this by presenting us with a number of asses, to be used in conveying letters, &c, through the country of the Tsetse, or poisonous fly, extending between the Amandebele and Makololo lands, the ass being the only quadruped which it does not attack. Sir George also expressed a hope that he should be able before long to visit the interior himself.

Nor did his kindness terminate with our visit. In various ways DEPARTURE FROM CAPE TOWN. his friendship was of service, and on one occasion, in answer to the application of a missionary for permission to purchase a few rifles and needful ammunition, his excellency presented him with these to the value of £75. Mr. Moffat and family being ready, started a week before us. Led by Mr. Helmore, we left Cape Town on August 31st ; the last day of our six weeks' sojourn at the Mission House being one of much bustle. Five wagon loads of articles had to be carried out and arranged, so as to occupy the smallest possible space. In my wagon, which was to be our abode for some months — its dimensions, fourteen feet long, by three feet wide, and five feet six inches high inside — we had not only to reserve room for ourselves, but also to pack up our goods very closely, and to attach a variety of small articles by strings to the sides and roof.

Everything being now in its place, and the oxen brought out, we left Cape Town about 5 p.m., with the hope that we had finished packing for a long time ; and having two Cape servant boys with our wagon, called Simon and Hendrick, the former to drive the wagon and to cook, and the latter to lead and take care of the oxen, we were rejoicing in the prospect of time for quiet observation and reading. Our prospect, how ever, was not to be realized. No sooner were the oxen in the yoke, than they began wildly to plunge and run with the wagon from one side of the road to the other. The wagon shook, the strings gave way, and, seated as we were about the centre of the front part of our moving house, one article after another from the sides CASUALTIES. and roof was hurled at us, until most of those things which had been placed a little above our heads had settled in a heap around us.

We had, in consequence, to repack pari of our load, much to our mortification; for although the deeply interesting narratives of Moffat and Livingstone, combined with the details given us at the Cape, should have prepared us for this, it was not until now that the real character of our journey was understood. Under Mr. Helmore's directions, we had now to gain our first experience in " outspanning ; " and though it then seemed as if any locality would serve, we soon found how much the comfort, and even the safety of the travellers, depend upon a judicious choice. A dry, elevated and level spot on the lee side of a hill, or large thick bush, with plenty of materials at hand for temporary cattle pens and fuel, as well as water for man and beast, has, if possible, to be secured. The cold nights in winter, the sudden thunderstorms and violent rains in summer, flooding the hollows, have alike to be guarded against, as well as the wild beasts, which sometimes scatter the oxen and cause a delay of days, or even weeks.

As yet however we were ignorant of such casualties. The oxen being unyoked, a fire was made at each wagon, the kettles put on, and each family was soon seated around a sideboard set up in front. Ater tea, the different parties met together at nine p.m. for read ing and prayers. The oxen in the meantime, having grazed, were caught and fastened by the horns to the yokes or wagon wheels, with thongs made of ox hide, or some other animal's skin. The servant boys rolled DUTCH SETTLEMENT. themselves in blankets, and either near the fire or under the wagon, with a kind of mat under them, and a block of wood or stone for a pillow, slept as comfortably as if their beds were made of down. A few feet square inside the wagon served as the sitting, dining, and bedroom of its owner and his family. Before inspanning next morning, we thoroughly enjoyed a visit from several of our newly-formed Cape friends, who rode out very early for this purpose, and afforded us another proof, in addition to those already given, that refinement, philanthropy, and true christian kindness are not confined to our native land.

Often had we to acknowledge with grateful hearts the kindness of our heavenly Father as shown in the hospitable sympathy of our friends. On account of the incessant and heavy rain, we were unable to travel very fast for some time ; hence some days passed over before we reached the first village of any importance. Wellington, though not equal either in the beauty of its situation or the regularity of its streets, to many of the colonial villages or small towns, is not devoid of interest, as being a kind of half-way resting place between the capital and the more remote villages, as well as the first specimen we had seen of a South African, or rather a Dutch settlement. The Kirk (Church), as near as possible in the centre, was the noblest building in the place, as is generally the case where the Dutch predominate.

This Kirk has wonderful charms for the Dutchman. His dorp or staat (village or town) is laid out in order around it; and even the farms, if possible, are ar- RELIGIOUS SERVICES. ranged according to the same plan, giving the idea that it is placed there to be protected, honoured, and admired ; nor is it surprising that he thinks so much of his Kirk, for his heart is bound to it by many endearing associations. His father or grandfather probably had something to do with erecting it, and forming the village : they are both buried now in that churchyard, with a large number more of his dear relatives and friends, perchance some of his tenderly beloved children. He himself was both christened (Gedoopt,) confirmed (Aangenoomeds) and married (Getrouwed) there, and he has there worshipped the God of his fathers for many years — at least once every three months.

Whatever the distance he has to come, his seat will not be vacant on the Communion Sunday (Naachtmaal), which occurs four times a-year. All assemble then ; some from thirty miles or more ; some in horse, mule, or ox wagons, according to their re spective circumstances. We have occasionally been at these services, and have seldom, if ever, seen anything more solemn and impressive. The congregations are large, orderly, and reverential, while the ministers are earnest, affectionate, and intelligent in their dis courses and in the discharge of all the other duties of their sacred office. At the naachtmaal, the minister, with christening, confirming, marrying, and administer ing the Lord's Supper, has very much to do, and as these rites are observed by the whole Dutch population, no wonder that their ministers are greatly beloved, respected, and regarded as their leaders in every good work.

BAIN'S KLOOF — MONKEYS. We had gone about ten miles beyond Wellington, when Mr. and Mrs. M — , who had not been able to start with us, came up. Our course now wound through Bain's Kloof, and then toiling through the rugged pass, exposed to the scorching rays of the sun, while the mountain tops were covered with snow, and the rocks afforded shelter to the wild and fantastic baboons that played strange antics around us, we felt more powerfully than before that the climate and civilization of England were left behind. " Set the dogs at them," said one of the party to another who was standing close by one evening, as they gazed at a multitude of apes going through their usual perform ances, and, as it were, holding a consultation in reference to the strangers, " or let us shoot some of them." " No," was the reply, " we had better leave them alone, or they may take it into their heads to dispatch the dogs, or even attack us."

To regard these disgusting creatures as being our remote ancestors, according to the speculations of certain naturalists, is to my mind, as revolting to our feelings as it is degrading to all our conceptions of the true origin of our race. When the " missing links " have been discovered, we may have to review our position; but until then we are well content with the old and inspired narrative in God's word. With these mountains we left behind all the grass, at least for some hundreds of miles, and entered that bushy but arid and fruitless desert called the Karroo. Although these bushes, used as food, disagree with strange cattle, and often prove fatal to them, those THE KARROO. that are accustomed to them thrive well, and the Dutch farmers say that the bush is better for the flocks than the grass.

We had advanced a day's journey into the Karroo when our oxen, not relishing the sour food, wandered in search of their usual pasturage. This gave us the opportunity of seeing the use made by the neighbour ing farmers of this waterless and generally treeless country. In the better parts of the desert there are fountains, and often large dams; and by irrigation the owners are able to grow abundant corn, vegetables, and forage, while the house is surrounded by vineyards, orchards, and ornamental trees. The flocks and herds are either brought home, or come of their own accord, to drink daily, or every night. But the poorer classes are often on the move, living in wagons, tents, and temporary houses, depending for their subsistence upon their small flocks and herds, and the chase. As for clothes, the boots and outer garments are made by the father out of skins prepared by himself, while those of softer materials fall to the lot of the mother.

Having been thrown upon their own resources, they can build their own houses, mend their own wagons, tame and work their own bullocks ; also, make their harness, as well as their own candles and soap. Indeed, each family is able to live almost independently of others. Our oxen being poor both in quality and condition, while we were unacquainted with travelling in the Karroo, our course became very tedious. The poor animals, feeling the heavy vehicles, and obtaining DROUGHT nothing to feed upon, gave way one after the other, so that from these causes, combined with pneumonia which broke out among them, 36 out of the 80 had died before we were nearly through the desert. At a place called Vlaat Kraal, the expedition was brought almost to a stand. Three of our number had now only eleven oxen left for their three wagons, and there they had to remain until we reached Beaufort West, and could send them others.