Journal of a residence in Northern Persia and the adjacent provinces of Turkey

Preface

. It is at the recommendation of the late James Morier, the gifted author of " Hajji Baba," who perused my Journal and advised its publication, that I now present it to the public. Cdcumstances prevented me at that time from following his advice, but public attention being now so much directed to the East, it is probable that notes on Persia and the adjoining provinces of Turkey may be found acceptable. GlBKALTAH, 13 May, 1854. CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Departure For Constantinople

— VOYAGE DOAVN THE ADRIATIC — SIR HOWARD DOUGLAS PAXO AND ANTI-PAXO — AMAXITHI STA* MAURA GULF OP ITHACA — GULF OF LEPANTO SCENERY OP THE MOREA CORINTH — HELICON AND CITHÆRON ACRO-CORINTHUS — GULF OF ATHENS — HARBOUR OF PIRÆUS — MARS' HILL — THE ACRO- POLIS THE ARCH OF HADRIAN FEVER IN ATHENS — TEMPLE OF THESEUS THE PARTHENON THE ERECHTHEIUM BAVARIAN TROOPS TEMPLE OF VICTORY WITHOUT WINGS TEMPLE OF THE WINDS GATE OF THE AGORA — STOA OF HADRIAN— MONUMENT OF PHILO- PAPPUS VALE OF THE CEPHISUS RUN DOWN THE GULF— CAPE SUNIUM TEMPLE OF MINERVA CAPE COLONNA SYRA CHAEACTER OF THE PEOPLE COAST OF SCIO COMTE BERCHEIM GULF OF SMYRNA — MITYLENE PLAIN OF TROY — TUMULI — CAPE JANIZARY NEGRO SLAVES THE DARDANELLES GALLIPOLI SHORES OF THE PROPONTIS — VIEW OF THE BOSPHORUS AND THE GOLDEN HORN 1

Chapter II. Landing At Galata

— PERA — MADAME GIUSEPPINI — NATIVE COSTUMES — BURIAL-GROUND AT PERA — THE BOSPHORUS — TURKISH FLEET — CASTLES OF AMURATH II. AND MAHOMET II. — THERAPIA — TOPHANA — b VI CONTENTS. MUCHAVER PASHA — MORLER's " MUSTAFA" — RUINS OF BLACHERNÆ ROMAN REMAINS BAZAARS SLAVE MARKET — COMMERCE OF CON STANTINOPLE THE ARSENAL THE CAPITAN PASHA DANCING DER VISHES — VISIT TO LORD PONSONBY PORTE OF THE SERAGLIO — AT MEIDAN — MOSQUE OF SULTAN ACHMET — THE " BURNT PILLAR ' — THE SULTAN'S TROOPS CARAVANSERAIS VISIT TO SCUTARI DEVOTIONS OF THE SULTAN SULTAN MAHMOUD MONDANIA BROUSSA THE CASTLE HUMMAUM — PASSAGE TO CONSTANTINOPLE — THE PLAGUE DIFFICULTY OF ENTERING THE MOSQUES JEWS BUYUKDERE UNKIAR-SKELESSI — NEW PALACE — A-TEW OF CONSTANTINOPLE AND ITS ENVIRONS VISIT TO THE SULTAN — BELGRADE 30

Chapter III. The Plague On The Increase

— GREEK SHIP BOARDED BY TURKS — NEWS FROM SCUTARI — TAXES — DECAY OF FANATICISM TREATY OF UNKIAR-SKELESSI — FORTIFICATIONS ROUND THERAPIA INTERESTING RUIN THE SYMPLEGADES — COLOUR OF THE BLACK SEA — SINOPE CAPE JASOUN KERESOUN — CAPE OROS VIEW FROM THE DECK TREBIZOND RAVAGES OF THE PLAGUE CAMP OF THE TEN THOUSAND FIRST VIEW OF CAUCASUS — CLOSE CULTIVATION — MIRZA ABBAS JEVIZLIK INTOXICATING HONEY PASS OF KAEA-KAPAN MAADAN MINES THE LAZI ARMENIAN BURIAL-GROUND BALLAHORE BAIBOORT MASSAHT KUSHAPONAR THE FRAT, OR NORTHERN EUPHRATES ERZEROOM — ARMENIANS 69

Chapter IV. Review Mahommed-hoosein-khan

— HASSAN KALA — THE ARAXES KOURMAZOU KOSEH-DAGH DAHAR MOULLAH-SOOLIMANIA KARA-KELEESEH, HORSES MONASTERY JELLAULLEES — BAYAZEED THE PALACE FORTIFICATIONS MOUNT ARARAT . . . . CONTENTS. VII

Chapter V. Enter Persia Keleeseh

— HYDER ALI COSTUME ALY SHEIKH PLAIN OF KHOI PEREH KHOI — HAJEE SYUD — LAKE AND CITY OF OOROOMIA VISIT TO FERIDOON MEERZA NASAKCHEE BASHEE THE WALEE AHUD TABREEZ GERMAN MISSIONARIES MUJTAHEDS BIVOUAC IN THE FIELDS DEPILE OP SHIBLEH MECCA " KA.FILA" MEEANA — AGKUND — MR. FARRANT'S LANCERS 122

CHAPTER VI. ZUNJAUN VALLEY OF SULTANIEH SUBTERRANEAN AQUEDUCTS FAT- TOOLEH-MEERZA DINNER WITH

THE PRINCE TOWN OF SULTANIEH TOMB OF KHODABUNDH — KHORUMDERE ABHAB CASTLE OF ALA- MOOT — SEADABUND — KASVEEN SULTAN MEERZA ANCIENT TUMULI ■ — KARGOOSABAD — CAMELS — SULIMANIEH DEMAWEND KUND DIS- PUTE ABOUT CEREMONIAL LETTER OF MEERZA MASSOUD RECEPTION AT TEHERAN 152

Chapter VII. Visit Of Count Simonich Guebers

— AUDIENCE OF THE SHAH — ANEC- DOTE OF FUTTEH ALI SHAH TEHERAN— INTERVIEAV WITH MEERZA MASSOUD KALEEOONS PROFLIGACY OF THE PERSIANS DEPARTURE OF ME. RUDDELL AND MR. HOPKINS FOR INDIA RUINS OF RHE VIEW FROM THE IMAMZADEH PERSIAN MARRIAGE — DEPARTURE OF SIR JOHN CAMPBELL 170

Chapter VIII. Grand Review Peesonal Appeaeance Of The Shah Peesian Troops Discipline

AND PAY CLANNISH SPIRIT DINNER WITH * COUNT SIMONICH — M. KHODZKO — CLIMATE — KUSR-I-KAJAR — THE CONTENTS. AEK — MADAME M. — SOOFIE SECT — MAHOMMED ALI MEERZA — AVAEICE OF FUTTEH ALI NUMBEE OF HIS WIVES AND CHILDREN SCHEMES OF CONQUEST ARRIVAL OF MR. FARRANT AND HIS LANCERS INSPECTION BY THE SHAH M. BOROWSKI PERSIAN PLAY DIPLO- MATIC BANQUET — INROAD OF KURDS — NEGHERISTAN . . . 184

Chapter IX. Invasion Of Seistan Dinner In Honoue Of The

EMPEEOE's BIRTH- DAY VISITS TO THE SHAH AND HAJEE MEERZA AGHASSEE RAMAZAN FUTTEH ALI AND THE POET LAUREATE DECREASE OF THE IRRE- GULAR .CAVALRY POSITION OF PERSIA AT THE CLOSE OF 1835 RELIGIOUS DIFFERENCES DEATH OF MR. RUDDELL FILIAL IMPIETY THE FIRMAN FIRMA CLOSE OF RAMAZAN ENCOURAGEMENT OF NATIONAL MANUFACTURES COMMERCE A KHAN BASTINADOED DISPUTE WITH THE KHAN OF KHIVA AND KAMEAM DOST MAHOMMED HIS DISTRUST OF ENGLAND RUMOURED ALLIANCE WITH THE SHAH FEUDS BETWEEN TEHERAN AND ISFAHAN DRILLING A REGIMENT OUTBREAK OF THE RUSSIAN REGIMENT INSECUEE POSITION OF THE SHAH — FREEDOM OF SPEECH IN PERSIA — ENVOY FROM C AND AH AR INSOLENCE OF THE HAJEE FESTIVAL OF THE NOUROZE MEERZA FATTOOLEH EED-I-KURBAN VISIT TO A MEDEESSEH . . 211

Chapter X. Departure From Teheran Jagerood River Ruinous Caeavan- Serai Storm Of

HAIL AND SNOW DEMAWEND AB-I-SERD AINEH WERZOON SERBENDAN — BAGH-I-SHAH DOLICHAI RIVER THE ARJUMEND FIROZEKOH PASS OF GADUK CASTLE OF KALEEP TURKHROBAT— PADDY FIELDS CAUSEWAY OF SHAH ABBAS ZEERAB CATTLE LUXURIANT NATURAL SCENERY SHEERGAH — PLAIN OF MAZANDERAN ABBAS KOULI MEERZA WRETCHED ROADS MAZAN- DERANEES SARI FISHERIES MAHOMMED KHAN FUZL ALEE KHAN— THE SELM-I-TOOR DINNER WITH THE VIZIER GENEEAL INFORMATION OF THE COMPANY CONTENTS. IX

Chapter XI. Aliabad

— JACKALS — GURAKHAIR RURAL MOSQUES — FOREST SCENERY CROWS BAHROOL IREM AGHA HOOSEIN BALFROOSH DEMAND FOR ENGLISH GOODS MESHEDI SIR THE CASPIAN AMOL MAUSO- LEUM OF SEYUD QUWAM-OO-DEEN PURRUS BRIDGES CAVES PRECIPITOUS EOADS WANEH MINERAL SPRINGS LARIJAN THUN- DER-STORM AH BLACK BEETLES RETURN TO TEHERAN . 272

Chapter XII. Kuhrman Meerza Financial Difficulties Theatrical Represen- Tation

; THE MAETYRDOM OF HOOSEIN — TUEKOMAN INEOAD SUC- CESS OF CAPTAIN SHEE BAUKIR KHAN TAKEN PRISONER SURREN- DER OF MAHOMMED TUCKEE KHAN FAREWELL AUDIENCE SUCCESS OF ME. ELLIS'S NEGOTIATIONS LETTER FROM THE PERSIAN MINISTER TO LORD PALMERSTON REVIEW OF KURDISH AND PERSIAN TEOOPS MUTINY OEDEE OF THE LION AND SUN COUNCIL OF TWELVE SUPERSTITION OF THE MEHMANDAR PARTING WITH FRIENDS MIGRATION OF THE SHAHZEWUND TRIBE — DEPREDATIONS OF THE SOL- DIERY KERDAN KISHLAK VALE OF SULTANIEH KHORUMDERE ISMAIL KHAN ZUNJAUN AGKUND PLUNDERED BY THE TROOPS LETTEES FEOM ENGLAND — SOOMA USUAD EFFENDI VIOLENT STORM PEOSPEEOUS STATE OF ADEEBIJAN RETURN TO TABREEZ . 290

Chapter XIII. Visit To The Walee Ahud Persian Pictures Cultivation Around Tabreez

FREEDOM OF THE PERSIAN WOMEN FROM RESTRAINT ■ DINNER TO THE EMBASSY ARRIVAL OF SIR HENRY BETHUNE RUSSIAN POLICY TOWARDS PERSIA KUHRMAN MEERZA RECEPTION OF THE NEW GOVERNOR RUINS OF AN OLD CASTLE EXTENSIVE GARDENS BASMEECH RIVER ARRIVAL OF BRITISH OFFICERS MALEK COSSIM MEERZA — SHOOTING PRACTICE — DEPARTURE OF X CONTENTS. TROOPS FROM TEHERAN SULEIMAN KHAN SPECIMENS OF PERSIAN MANNERS — DEPARTURE OF MR. BAKER THE SHAH MARCHES FROM TEHERAN COL. PASMORE's IRAK DIVISION RUMOURED INTENTION TO INVADE KHIVA RUSSIAN INFLUENCE INCREASING NESTORIAN CHRISTIANS IN KURDISTAN— PERSECUTION OF JEWS AT OOROOMIAH MATTER OF COMPLAINT AGAINST ENGLAND EXCESSIVE HEAT WRETCHED STATE OF THE SHAH'S CAMP THE CHOLERA AT MESHED 309

Chapter XIV. Final Departure From Tabreez Bridge

OA^R THE AJY EN ROUTE FOR EUROPE— FALSE DAWN RIDE TO PEREH GOODS CARAVANS PARTING WITH MR. BELL— KURDISH ESCORT MR. MCNEILL DIA- DIN BANKS OF THE MOURAD DELI-BABA SNOW IN HARVEST — - LESGHIS — MAADAN TURKISH RECRUITS AN IDIOT BEAUTIFUL SCENERY TREBIZOND MME. OUTR^ AND HER DAUGHTERS RUIN- OUS CASTLE CHURCH OF ST. SOPHIA HARBOUR OF HADRIAN THE PLAGUE INCREASING SINOPE SLAVE TRADE ENTRANCE OF THE BOSPHORUS 331

Chapter XV. Mr

CHURCHILL DINNER WITH LORD PONSONBY MOSQUE OF SOLY- MAN MAUSOLEUM OF SOLYMAN AND ROXALANA MAD-HOUSES VISIT TO THE FANAR MASSACRE OF 1821 SERAGLIO CISTERN OF THE THOUSAND AND ONE COLUMNS SUPERIORITY OF TURKISH TO PERSIAN TROOPS HEAVY GALE LEAVE CONSTANTINOPLE ARRIVAL AT ODESSA THE SPURGATORIO M. AND MME. DE CREPTOWICH— PLEASANT LAZAEETTO VISIT FROM MR. BAKER ADMIRAL LAZA- ROFF CORRUPTION IN THE RUSSIAN AESENALS AND DOCKYAEDS COUNT WORONZOW QUARANTINE REGULATIONS .... CONTENTS. XI

Chapter XVI. Inspection Of The Lazaeetto

— TOWN OF ODESSA — THEATRE — NEW EXCHANGE STATUE OF RICHELIEU MIXED POPULATION COM- MERCE CLIMATE GREAT NUMBER OF JEWS COUNT WORONZOw's HOUSE BREED OF HORSES — DROSKIES CHURCHES OPERA RIVAL PRIMA DONNAS — MILITARY COLONIES COUNT DE WITT PARADE ADMIRAL LAZAROFF CIRCASSIAN WAR LEAVE ODESSA CROSSING THE STEPPES ANANIEW BALTA NEMEROFF GREAT NUMBER OF JEWS THE PAYSAGE ENTER VOLHYNIA STARO-CONSTANTINOW — ZASKOF B1ELOTISNA OSTEOG LOUTSK KOVEL BRZESC LITEW SKI DOUANIERS PASS THE FRONTIER INTO POLAND BIALA . 367

Chapter XVII. Warsaw

— THE OLD PALACE LOTTERY OFFICE PALAIS DE SAXE CATHEDRAL MARSHAL PASKEWITSCH DINNER AT THE PRINCE'S RELIGIOUS TOLERATION — MODERATION OF THE VICEROY BELVEDERE PALACE BOTANICAL GARDEN LAJENSKI PALACE THE NEW CITA- DEL THE LATE INSURRECTION OLD TOWN GREAT NUMBER OF JEWS — REACH BERLIN TWO DINNERS IN ONE DAY EXCITEMENT CAUSED BY THE DUKE OF WELLINGTON HAMBURGH — EMBARK FOR 386 LONDON JOURNAL OF A RESIDENCE IN NORTHERN PERSIA, <kc.

Chapter I. Departure For

CONSTANTINOPLE— VOYAGE DOWN THE ADRIATIC — SIR HOWARD DOUGLAS PAXO AND ANTI-PAXO — AMAXITHI — S"* MAURA — GULF OF ITHACA — GULF OF LEPANTO— SCENERY OF THE MOREA — CORINTH HELICON AND CITHÆRON — ACRO-CORINTHUS — GULF OF ATHENS HARBOUR OF PIRÆUS MARS' HILL — THE ACRO- POLIS THE ARCH OF HADRIAN — FEVER IN ATHENS — TEMPLE OF THESEUS — THE PARTHENON — THE ERECHTHEIUM BAVARIAN TROOPS — TEMPLE OF VICTORY WITHOUT WINGS — TEMPLE OF THE -WINDS — GATE OF THE AGORA — STOA OF HADRIAN — MONUMENT OF PHILOPAPPUS— VALE OF THE CEPHISUS — RUN DOWN THE GULF — CAPE SUNIUM— TEMPLE OF MINERVA— CAPE COLONNA — SYRA — CHARACTER OF THE PEOPLE — COAST OF SCIO — COMTE BERCHEIM — GULF OF SMYRNA— MITYLENE — PLAIN OF TROY — TUMULI CAPE JANIZARY — NEGRO SLAVES THE DARDANELLES — GALLIPOLI — SHORES OF THE PROPONTIS — VIEW OF THE BOSPHORUS AND THE GOLDEN HORN.

In the year 1835, my relation, the Right Hon. Henry EUis (now Sir Henry Edis, K.C.B.), having been appointed Ambassador Extraordinary to the Court of Persia, was kind enough to make me his private B CORFU secretary. Circumstances having occurred to delay, for a short time, his Excellency's departure from Eng land, I obtained his permission to proceed by land to Constantinople, there to await the arrival of the embassy. Steamers from Trieste there were none in those days, and I was glad to avad myself of a " trabaccolo," for the voyage down the Adriatic to Corfu. Venice looked brdliant and beautiful when I embarked opposite the Ducal Palace, on a hot July day, and I had a good opportunity of admiring its appearance from the sea, for we were becalmed nearly tAventy-four hours off the Lido. I had no companion but the captain ; no pro menade but the tops of empty od-casks ; the bread got mouldy, and the water before long tasted strongly of the cask ; so that the voyage became rather tedious, and, on the seventh day, I was right glad to hear the captain announce his intention of putting into Lesina for provisions.

The scenery of the Dalmatian islands is picturesque and wdd ; and further south we passed under the grand old mountains of Albania. At length, on the twelfth day, a fresh breeze took us through the narrow channel which divides Corfu from the main land, and we had before us a scene of matchless beauty. I have since seen Naples, Palermo, Granada, Constan tinople, Athens, the Tagus, and the west coast of Scot land ; but none of these far-famed spots are equal to Corfu. A year's subsequent residence on that most lovely island only confirms the impression created by THE IONIAN ISLANDS. 3 the first vieAv I had of the old citadel and the Acropolis of Corcyra from the top of the oil-casks of " L'Amico Confioto." The Ionian Islands were, at that time, admirably governed by Sir Howard Douglas, Avho well under stood the people and their interests, and Avas unwearied in his endeavours to promote the material prosperity and moral improvement of the republic.

The vagaries of his immediate predecessor, Lord Nugent, had con siderably increased the difficulty of his task. I remained at Corfu for ten delightful days, and on the morning of the 6th of July left by the Ionian steamer for Ithaca. July 26. — The sky was perfectly clear, and it was long before the singular and picturesque rocks, upon which the citadel of Corfu is placed, backed by the high mountain of St. Salvador, faded in the distance. Paxo, a small island south of Corfu, inhabited by an industrious and contented httle population, is covered with olives and cypress-trees, and contains many lovely spots, but is not a pretty object from the sea. The uninhabited Isle of Anti-Paxo is still less picturesque. There was a good deal of sea off Cape Bianco, the south point of Corfu ; the Greeks on board were as sick as dogs, and by no means partial to the deck.

We reached Sta. Maura at four o'clock. This island, the ancient Leucadia, is close to the mainland of Greece, from which it was separated by the Corinthians, who cut through the isthmus. Small vessels only can pass b NIC0P0LIS. through the channel, the scenery of Avhich, I am told, is beautiful. Araaxithi, the chief toAvn of the island, is situated on a little plain, at the foot of a dark mountain ; a strip of low land extends about a mile towards the east, at the extremity of which there is a fort, which the British troops under Sir John Oswald took, not Avithout loss, from the French in 1809. Before we entered the harbour, we could distinguish the entrance to the Gulf of Actium, within which Trevesa is situated. Extensive ruins stdl mark the site of Nicopolis, a city budt by Augustus in honour of his victory, on a height which overlooks the shadow bay.

Many relics of this celebrated battle have been fished up ; among others, the bronze prow of a Roman galley, in excedent preservation, Avhich noAv belongs to Sd Howard Douglas. Many porous water vases have also been found in the Gulf of Arta, precisely simdar to those Avhich the boat men of Egypt at this day fix in the stern of thed Canges. I was fortunate enough to make the acquaintance of Major and Mrs. Eden on board the steamer ; they good-naturedly introduced me to Captain Dawson, who commands two companies of the 73d at Sta. Maura, and who very kindly asked me and my companions to dine with him. There are tAvo fine palm-trees in the fort, one of which overshadows the verandah of the officers' barrack. The view from the ramparts of the Albanian mountains, " Dark Suli's rock, and Pindus' inland peak," GULF OF ITHACA. is superb.

We went into a boat to look at Amaxithi The town and the fort are equally unhealthy.* The Venetians joined them by a long arched causeway, the ruins of which are picturesque. Amaxithi has suffered severely from earthquakes ; and the upper stories of ad the houses are consequently built of wood. It is a poor, dirty place. The Greeks, lounging about the narrow, dregular streets, were more uncivilized in their costume and countenances than those at Corfu. Many were listening with great apparent delight to the screeching notes of a bagpipe, played by a wdd looking savage, clad in sheepskins. Sta. Maura having been finally conquered by the Venetians only in 1684, is naturally more Turkish than its sister islands. We looked into a club library, on the shelves of which I remarked copies of Machiavelli and of several other good Italian authors, but very few Greek books.

At the end of the town, under the shade of gigantic olive trees, are Cyclopean walls, which we had not time to visit. We left Sta. Maura at ten o'clock, in a rough rolling sea. We passed during the night the far-famed * Lover's leap." 21th. — This morning I found myself within the gulf of Ithaca, a harbour so completely landlocked, that it appeared to be a small lake surrounded by * When Sir H. Douglas inspected the garrison in 1836, upwards of 60 men were in hospital out of a detachment of 150 ; and 18 deaths had taken place within a week. CEFALONIA AND ZANTE. high barren mountains. The passage up the long and narrow channel is practicable for frigates, but they do not often attempt it. The little white town of Vathi is at the upper end of the harbour, the lower part of the hdl behind is cultivated and riant.

A fragment of a Cyclopean wall on the brow of a hdl overlooking Samos, in the neighbouring island of Cefalonia, is caded the " Castle of Ulysses," and the fountain of Arethusa is still one of the lions of his little kingdom. We landed at seven a.m. and break fasted in a cabaret • Major Eden (the new resident appointed to Ithaca by the Lord High Commissioner,) was most kind in assisting us to hire a large row-boat with a crew of twelve men, in which we embarked at ten o'clock, accompanied by a guardiano from the sanda, Avhose duty it is to see that our sadors do not communicate with the inhabitants of terra firma, against whom a quarantine is rigidly enforced in the Ionian Islands. The breeze bleAv fair and strong, and we were not long in reaching Greece. At the mouth of the gulf of Patras we had a fine view of the lofty " black mountain " of Cefalonia, and of Zante, " fior di Levante."

I could just make out the Ioav walls of Messalonghi behind the Lagoons Avhich intervene between the Achelous and the Evenus. The glorious battle of Lepanto * Avas fought in these waters. A * So pronounced in modern Greek and in Italian. The second syl lable of " Otoanto " is also pronounced short. SCENERY OF THE MOREA. few mdes beyond Patras the shores of the Morea and of Roumeli almost touch ; the entrance to the Gidf of Lepanto is defended on each side by low forts. Here we enjoyed a lovely sunset; and a spare dinner of eggs, bread, and marmalade. 28th. — A few feet of hard plank to sleep upon. Mr. B. kept me aAvake half the night by abusing the boatmen, who would not pud. He thrashed tAvo of them toAvards morning, which has done some good; but one of our Greek servants says, that the whole crew were so enraged, that they deliberated seriously as to the expediency of throwing us overboard.

The mountainous scenery of the Morea, close to Avhich we keep, is very picturesque. Vostizza looks pretty and clean at a distance. We landed to bathe in the morning, and again at mid-day, to rest and feed. I thoroughly enjoyed some Turkish kabobs dressed on a stick by Demitri ; we dined under the shade of ohve-trees, enlivened by the music of crickets and tree-frogs, in a perfect bower of myrtles and oleanders noAv in full bloom. I strolled afterwards on the rocks among some low Italian pines. The view of Parnassus and other mountains of Phocis, on the north side of the gidf, is beautdul. A bridle path, as yet the only land communication between Patras and the capital, is carried along the shore. All this was very pleasant, but it is tedious in the extreme to sit in a cramped position for hours together toiling past each successive headland.

HELICON AND CITHÆK.ON. 29th. — The shore is covered with low aromatic shrubs ; beyond these are extensive plantations of the " Uva Passa," * now nearly ripe. This fruit, closely resembling the grape, but much smader, is dried in the sun, and almost entdely exported to England, where it is so good (under the name of currant) in plum puddings, &c. The plains of Achaia, Sicyon, and Corinth contain the most valuable land in the Morea, that of Argos perhaps excepted. The mountains Avhich bound them are broken into a thousand picturesque shapes, and frequently divided by dark green ravines. The population appears to be scanty ; some of the natives, rugged-looking men, ad dressed in dirty white kilts (the Albanian fustanello), and dirtier stockings, came doAvn to stare at us. We passed very feAV vdlages ; those we saw consisted of not more than a dozen houses, the largest of which (they had apparently been used as fortalices), were invariably unroofed.

We Avalked all morning, but after passing the last headland, got into our boat : Corinth Avas in sight, backed by its lofty Acropolis ; Helicon and Cithæron were likewise visible. The gidf is separated near its head by a mountainous chain, * The Uva Passa is also the chief production and article of export of Cefalonia and Zante. I am not aware how the article has been affected by recent tariffs ; but iu 1838 a duty of 91 per cent, was levied in Eng land upon Ionian currants, which also paid an export duty of 19 i per ceut. The Morea currants were every year becoming more formidable rivals in the English market. The currants, after being carefully dried, are stamped down into barrels. I remember that a club-footed man at Cefalonia was considered invaluable as a stamper ! CORINTH. romantic and irregularly precipitous into the bays of Livadostro and Corinth, the latter terminated by the low isthmus which bears its name.

A faint breeze carried us slowly along; the heat was intense, I felt quite overpoAvered by the sun ; but luckily, after doing rny best to fix my attention upon a dud volume of Grecian history, I threAv it down in despair, and took up " Peter Simple," in the delights of which, Greece Corfu, Corinth, poetry, " the present scene, my future lot," heat, boat, boxes, &c. were soon forgotten. I was heartdy glad, notAvithstanding, to land opposite some ruined houses on the site of the ancient Lesbaion, at six o'clock. Camels came down to the beach and knelt to receive thed burdens — a foretaste of the East. Our time is precious, and mindful of the proverb — " Non cuivis homini contingit adire Corinthum," I hurried over the stubble and thistles which clothe the gentle slope on which the famous city stood.

Half an hour's walk brought me to a labyrinth of ruined hovels, among which an inhabited tenement was rarely to be seen. The distant view of ancient columns encouraged me to proceed, and I at length emerged on an open street, in the frequented part of the town, just in time to see the sunset beyond the gulf, and behind his OAvn mountainous region. The columns are of the Doric order, fluted, seven in number, forming one right angle. The greater part ACRO-CORINTHUS. of the architecture remains ; one of the capitals is deficient; they are the largest in diameter (5 feet 10) of any in Greece, and very stumpy. All are more or less sunk in the earth. These " and many a stone, Marble and granite, with grass overgrown," are I believe the only classical remains of ancient Corinth, the once powerful and luxurious mother of Corcyra, Syracuse, and Ambracia.

I regretted much that I had not time to ascend the Acro-Corinthus, which is crowned by a turreted wall. The isolated and uncommanded position of this for tress, and the fountain of Pedene at the top of the rock, should render it impregnable. The choruses in the " Assedio di Corinto," rang in my ears as I gazed upon the rocky height, and the shadows of Alp and Erancesca seemed to haunt the lonely columns ! A sort of inn is kept by a Cefalonian of sinister appearance, who speaks English : we enjoyed an ex cellent omelette in one of his filthy rooms. Ten borses were at length collected, and we got sadly off from the beach at ten p.m. I was mounted on a sorry hack, with a high demipique saddle, and could scarcely keep myself awake. The road, or rather path, was execrable. For the last tAvo miles before reaching the Egean Sea, Ave rode through a defile cut by the Venetians when they attempted to make a ship canal.

Its banks are covered AAdth brushwood, and HARBOUR OF PIRÆUS. would be a famous lurking-place for Greek " klephts," who are said to be numerous in some parts of the country. 30th. — We reached Ralimachi, a small village on the Gulf of Athens, a little to the north of the ancient Cenchrea, at half-past one, and Avhilst our baggage was being embarked, saw a specimen of the interior of a Grecian cottage. All the inhabitants were sleep ing higgledy piggledy on the floor, but there was a high shed in one corner, on which a traveder might spread his bed ; one is safer both from vermin and malaria when off the ground. We embarked at two in a small boat with a large lateen sail. On aAvakening I found that we were close to Salamis, and before long the Acropolis of Athens and the mountains which surround it were visible.

I observed several frigates lying at anchor close to Psyttalia, a little island between Salamis and the coast of Attica, where Xerxes landed troops to cut off expected fugitives from the Grecian fleet ! We anchored in the harbour of Piræus at eleven o'clock. It contained a good deal of shipping, and numerous houses were springing up around it. We have established ourselves in a tolerable "locanda," kept by a Maltese. At four o'clock we started from Athens on foot, in a fit of John-Bidlism, no carriage being at the moment procurable, and the OAvners of hacks insisting on previous payments. There is ap parently a good deal of traffic on the straight dusty road mars' hill. 12 betAveen Piræus and the capital. I was rather disappointed with the distant appearance of the Acropolis, which seems out-topped by Anchesmus and the Mu sæum, though the latter, a nearer object, is not in reality so high, but my feehngs were completely changed Avhen I began to distinguish the venerable columns of the Parthenon.

Hymettus, Pentelicus, Parnes and -Egaleus, the mountain barrier of the plain of Athens, are bare and brown; Pentelicus alone is picturesque in shape. The olive wood, Avhich not many years ago extended nearly to the shore, is now sadly diminished, and bears marks of the devastation of war. Instead of entering the modern capital, almost concealed by the Acropolis, we took a short cut to the right, in order to have time to examine that far-famed fastness before sunset. Unconsciously Ave scrambled up the Hid of Mars ; there paused to admire the Temple of Theseus below, and descended by a flight of narroAv steps cut in the rock, to the ravine which separates the Areopagus from the Acropolis. On reaching the upper gate of the citadel, we were refused admittance AA'ithout an order. Bribes I am ashamed to say Avere offered, but in vain, to the old soldiers in charge.

They aUowed us, however, to remain until sunset on the outer wall. I never saw so lovely an evening ■ no painter could do justice to theblueness of the mountains, the purple of the sky, or the beauty of the scene. The glorious view is described as literally as it is poetically, in the ATHENS. opening of the third canto of the Corsair — only the people here wdl pronounce Egina, "Egnia," which disturbs me. When the sun had disappeared, we descended from the Acropolis, and passing along its southern side, round the Odeum of Herodes Atticus, we came to the Arch of Hadrian, Avhich does not appear to advantage so near the pure and simple majesty of Grecian ruins. Close by are sixteen gigantic fluted Corinthian columns, all of the whitest marble, though time and sun have partially gilded them with a yedow crust which adds to their beauty.

They belonged to the Temple of Jupiter designed by Pisistratus, and finished by Hadrian. " Who that beheld that sun upon thee set, Eaii* Athens, could thine evening face forget ? " Who that has been at Athens can ever forget the Acropolis from this spot, and the glowing red of a Grecian sky seen at twilight, between the columns of the Parthenon ? Our eyes being now of little use to us, the next object was to satisfy our craving stomachs ; we there fore entered the labyrinth of stinking lanes and hovels, misnamed a town, and sought the house of Sir E. Lyons, whither we had sent our servants with pass ports. Alas ! the Athenian women did not rush to their thresholds to say, "Bien venus, seigneurs etrangers a, Athenes," as they did when Lamartine arrived ! Whether this change of manners is to be attributed TEMPLE OF THESEUS. to the march of intellect, or to the frightful fever which now rages in this city, I cannot say.

After walking two miles through and round the town, under the guidance of a self-constituted Cicerone, who spoke a few words of French, we at length reached Sd E. Lyons' Villa in the Ceramicus. En chemin we passed the temporary Palace, a shabby, shapeless, country house, in the same direction. Sd E. Lyons is laid up with the fever, and the secretary, Mr. Waller, is also in his bed. We at last found an hotel kept by a French man : every room was engaged ; Mr. Dawkins the Ex minister had removed thither from the ambassade in the morning. Poor M. Rouget,* the landlord, was pale and emaciated from fever and suffering; one child was a corpse in the house, another crawled about looking more dead than alive. Mr. Dawkins, who came into the room where we supped, suddenly complained of dlness and left us : sickness seemed to be universal.

We could not procure horses to carry us back to the Piræus without sending for gens d'armes, who soon settled the matter. I greatly enjoyed the moonlight gallop. 31st. — I was recommended to shut my windows for fear of malaria. We mounted at six, and cantered up to Athens. The distance is about four miles. We visited the temple of Theseus before breakfast. This, the best preserved monument of Grecian antiquity, is * This poor man and all his family died a few days after we left Athens. THE PARTHENON. 15 placed on rising ground in the midst of a vaUey. Beautiful as it is, one regrets that it should be so very small. Not one of its columns is missing, though some of the tambours are shaken from their places. They are defaced by the euphonious names of many a Mr. Johnson and Smith. The pediments are much injured, but time and Lord Elgin have left this temple some fine fragments of sculpture.