Kafirland: a ten months' campaign

Preface

. It will doubtless be wondered why I have been so long in writing my humble ex periences of the Kafir War of 1878. The reason is, that few days only had elapsed after my getting out of soldier's harness, before I was again at work, in a civil capacity, as Magistrate over Kafirs in Gealekaland. Had my time been my own, I should at once have written the following records; but having plenty of work to attend to, I have only been able to write in my idle moments. In offering these pages to the public, I do not for one moment pretend to put forward a scientific account of the campaign, which VI

PREFACE.

. is work for more able brains than mine, and those moreover of a military man : and I must beg the indulgence of all soldiers, for doubtless many faults in military parlance, and tactics but ill described. I have, however, endeavoured to give a faithful account of the varied scenes and adventures that I met with during my ex perience as a Fingo leader, and I trust I may succeed in whiling away an hour or two for those who take an interest in South Africa. The Magisteact, Willow Vale, Transkei, Cape of Good Hope. 2nd June, 1879. PAGE 1 10 27 CONTENTS. CHAPTEE I. Leaving home in the Georgetown district — Mossel Bay— Voyage to East London— The " Bar "— The town — -Arrival in King William's Town .

Chapter II

Rising of the Gaikas — Murder of the Taintons — Appointment to command of Native Levies — King William's Town in excitement — Taking command of Corps — Fingoes as walkers — As eaters — Kei Eoad — Night patrol — March to Komgha — Dead bodies at Draaibosch — 88th Light Infantry at Komgha — Ablutions of a certain officer who shall be nameless ....

Chapter III

Assegaied sucking-pig for dinner- — March to Impetu — Relief of Fort Warwick — Burning fort, and return to Komgha— On the march — Wild firing of Fingoes, and scene in camp — Joined by more Fingoes — Attack on the Chechaba — Capture of large herds of cattle — Attack on Botman's Hoek — More cattle — Men in women's clothes — Ivory arm-rings — Awful wound in a man's bead — Cruelty of blacks — Punishment of blacks for so-called murder — How blacks bear pain . CONTENTS. VIII PAGE

Chapter IV

Splendid climate — Waylaying at night — Fatal jump of two Kafirs — Long patrol — Sunstroke — Another attack on the Chechaba — More cattle captured — Sandilli's coat — Nuisance of captured horses — Man shot by accident— Biver Kei — Beautiful scenery — Currie's Farm — The sea — Driving cattle to camp — Work always comes on Sunday — Night bivouac in the rain — Comfort of tobacco — Return to Impetu — Cattle in Laager — Numbers stolen — March to Thompson's Farm — Capsizing of sledges with stores — Fingo shot through forehead and chest — March through Chechaba Valley — Back to Komgha — Destruction of farms by Kafirs — Back to our camp on the Kei 50 CHAPTEE V. Constant patrolling — Sandilli breaking through to Amatolas — Hard times in the rain — Short of food — No tobacco — Break up of camp — Puzzle as to transport of aged Kafir woman — Camp at Msengi — Everything looks peaceful — Fingoes as hunters — Quantities of bucks and hares — — Assegai throwing — Wild pigs — Off to King for pay — The " Winkler's Best" — Awful goings on — Quiet rubber — Musical evening at Kei Eoad — Naval Brigade camp at Komgha — Church— Quiet Sunday evening — Eeturn to camp — Paying the men 83 CHAPTEE VI.

Orders to march to King — On to the Amatolas — CONTENTS. IX PAGE 10*1 139 The "Buffalo" Eange— Colonel Evelyn Wood — Attack on the Perie Forests — March to Eaboula Heights — Grand scenery — Brabant's column in. difficulties — Lonsdale's Fingoes — Shelling the Perie — Sandilli's horse — Captain Bradshaw killed — Wonderful night scene in Perie Forest — Grand scramble through the bush — Fine cascade — Eeturn to camp at Hudson's Store — Captains Donovan and Ward killed — Arrival of General and Staff to stay the night — Poor accommodation — General Thesiger CHAPTEE VII. Best in camp — Officer shot while visiting pickets — Narrow escape of Colonel Wood — Second attack on Perie — March at two a.m. — Sunrise over the forest — Two Fingoes killed at one shot — Fingo funeral — Fearfully cold night with only one blanket — War talk on Buffalo Heights — Commandant Lonsdale — Sleeping in the bush — The General's witch doctors — Charming day in the forest — Enormous tree — Night march through theforest back to camp — Broken shins — Haines' Mill CHAPTEE VIII.

Striking camp on the heights — March to Lower Eaboula — Night pickets — Hard sleeping-quarters — Weary time in the bush — Kafirs up trees — They come down quicker than they went up — Larking back to camp — Wretched night in the rain — Colonel Wood mentioned in our prayers — Lonsdale, his boots — Back to Huda X CO NTENTS. PAGE son's Store — Men all go on leave — Night-ride with Eorke — His Fingoes — Fruitless day — Baron de Fyn — Pleasant evenings in Keiskamma Hoek — Muster of men — March to Burns' Hill — Kafirs killed by Fingoes while on leave — Waggon attacked — Action in Zanyockwe Valley — Jim in hospital — Two new levies — Attack on Intaba Indoda and Tutu — Good day among the enemy — Saltmarshe killed — Prospecting for Kafirs at daylight 165

CHAPTER IX.

Funeral of soldiers — General addresses to the troops — Very busy time — Night work — Ordered to Red Hill — Good sleeping-quarters for a season — Asleep in the bush — Pleasant evenings at the Baron's — Dinner with the 90th Light Infantry — Marketing for Kafir curiosities — Major Buller — Chaos reigns supreme in camp —Bread and water of affliction for Fingoes — Trying night-march — Ominous whistle — Path lost — Right at last — Warm quarters in patrol-tent 197 CHAPTEE X. Third attack on Perie Forest — Advance to plateau before daylight — Too late after all — Death of Captain M'Naghten— Captain Whalley wounded and others killed — Back to Eaboula Heights again — Officers and men very torpid in the morning— Scouring Buffalo Poort — Cropper into hidden pit — Buller as Fingo leader — Austin CONTENTS.

XI PAGE wounded by a mistake — Beautiful scene on Sunday morning — Lonsdale's tent— Colonel Wood down with fever — A long good-bye to Eaboula Heights — Haines' Mill again — Meet ing with an old friend — Start by moonlight in the bush — Weird procession through the forest — Ascending Sandilli's Krantz — Bivouac in the bush 2.18

CHAPTER XL

Exploring parties sent off — Kafirs in stronghold — Lonsdale's Fingoes sent for — Eight men shot — Lonsdale arrives— Kafirs surrounded — Difficulty of forming a cordon — Night on the watch — Single combat between Fingo and Kafir — Foot steps in the darkness — Don't shoot your friends — Oh ! such a hard bed — Rush on stronghold — Kafirs gone — Return to camp — Amusing scene en route — Wounded men — Fingoes as patients — Sundry anecdotes — Fingoes as shammers, a great success — A dose of Worcester Sauce very efficacious medicine — Excuses to get leave — Post mortem examination — Another night in the bush— On the "bend" in King— The Kwenkwe Valley 241 CHAPTEE XII. Patrolling from the Kwenkwe— Death of Sandilli — Burial at Isidengi— The fair sex in camp — Buck-hunt— Fingo shot — First levy disbanded — Long walk — Mount Kempt— Dead Kafir child — Dissipation in King — Loss of friends CONTENTS.

XII PAGE 269 294 in the battle of Isandula — Cricket — Amuse ments after dinner — Eifle-shooting — Visit to Sandilli's two sons in prison — Foot-ball — Whist — Photographer in camp — Good-bye to the Kwenkwe — March to Impetu— Deserters . CHAPTEE XIII. Mutiny and disorder — Peace restored — Back again in a hurry — Fort Warwick once more — Hare in fort — North side of Chechaba — Two journeys to King and back — Public funeral of Taintons and Brown — The Kei again — Amatola and Tynmie levies depart — New levy enrolled — Trollips's hotel in Komgha — Back to Impetu — New levy want discipline — They get it freely — The " cat " put to bed— To Cape Town and back — Orders to disband Fingoes — Day among the bucks at Impetu — Can Englishmen shoot straight? — Men disbanded — On board the "Anglian" — The hills of Kaffraria in the distance KAFIRLAND; OR, A TEN MONTHS' CAMPAIGN.

Chapter I

Leaving home in the Georgetown district — Mossel Bay — Voyage to East London— The " Bar "—The town- Arrival in King William's Town. I had been living for about two years in great peace and contentment in the district of George, Cape of Good Hope, when, towards the close of the year 1877, I received the offer of a magistracy on the Kaffrarian frontier, and was expecting daily to be de finitely appointed and get orders to proceed forthwith to take up my abode among my black brethren. My jurisdiction, as I under stood, was to be over some of the border tribes, I was not therefore greatly surprised to receive a telegram from Government, re questing me to go as soon as possible to B KAFLRLAND ; OR, 2 King William's Town, and report myself to the authorities. I received this message on the 21st December, and after ascertaining that there was a steamer which could take me from Mossel Bay to East London on the 29th, I decided to go by her, and thence on to King William's Town.

My wife and I now indeed had our work cut out for ns ; for everything in the house had to be packed and sent away, what few ostriches, stock, and horses we had were to be sold, and, in fact, a clean sweep to be made of everything. For dwellers in the wilderness this sort of thing is very different to what it is in England. There, indeed, at the worst in case of a hurried move, one has only to set the village carpenter to work with a two-foot rule and plenty of pine plank, and he can turn out packing cases nearly as fast as you can pack them. And as to stock and horses, there are very few viUages indeed that don't possess an enterprising publican, who is always ready to take anything off one's hands in the shape of live stock of every description. I can't say I remember any one for certain who would be ready to have a deal in ostriches, though I have an idea that I could find one or two trusty Knights of the Tankard in the wilds of Hampshire, who would not refuse even a finely developed old cock ostrich — at a price.

In our case, my faithful henchman Jim and I had to set to work and do everything, and by dint of working night and day we got cases made from whatever material we had by us, and everything packed and off the place by the. 27th. I had also found time to ride off and sell our stock, though not very advantageously. My wife had been nobly assisting in the fray, and we were all thankful to congratulate ourselves on having entirely finished by sundown on this day. My wife and I had mutually settled that the wisest plan for her would be to return to England, and stay there, paying a round of long-promised visits, till I had got some thing in the shape of a house for her in Kafraria. The time had now arrived to say farewell ! I am one of those who agree with Lord Lytton to the utmost when he says, " Beware of partings !

" and it has unfor- B KAFIRLAND ; OR, 4 tunately been my lot to have many and long separations from those I love best, and I must say that the older I grow the less I like them, and I devoutly hope that I may be permitted for the rest of my days to remain in the bosom of my family, never again, as has too often been the case, to find my self at one end of the world and all those I love at the other. However, as nasty medicine has to be taken, our farewell had to be said. My wife and boy were going to stay with some friends a few miles away till they started for England, while I had to walk into George that night, and drive on to Mossel Bay the next day. I took my wife's horse down to the' river, across which we always had to swim our horses when going in the direction she was about to take, and, as usual, we started in the boat, holding the bridle for the horse to follow as he had done hundreds of times before.

But to my disgust he totally refused to follow the boat, and nothing would induce him to come after us. I believe this was a providential arrano-e ment, for I was feeling rather slack and down in the mouth, and wanted something to stir me up. I got out of the boat and was soon on his back, and after some little trouble and application of the stick, got him out of his depth, and then he very soon found out who was best man, anyhow in the water. The river was about one hundred yards across, but we were, I should think, nearly twenty minutes in getting over, for the horse seemed determined not to go the right way, and I could only stop him once or twice by pulling his head under water. However, we landed safely at last on the right side, and our "tender, last farewells" having been got through, we went our several ways.

I changed my wet things at the house, and then, with the faithful Jim, started for George. I ought to give Jim a paragraph to him self, as he will frequently appear in these pages. He had worked for me some years in Hampshire, of which county he was a native, and when I decided to spend some time in the Cape Colony I sent him a message, saying I should be very glad if he liked to come and work for me again. He came to me at once, and a more faithful and trustworthy KAFLRLAND ; OR, 6 servant never yet followed his master's footsteps. We reached George, about fifteen miles off, between twelve and one, and as a ball was then in full swing, I decided to go to it at once, for it was a very good opportunity of saying good-bye to my friends, most of whom I knew would be there. I knocked up a store-keeper and found my portmanteau, and having arrayed myself decently, went and took part in the mazy dance, and stayed there till daylight.

A friend of mine had promised to drive me down to Mossel Bay, so on leaving the ball I called him up, and soon afterwards we started. Mossel Bay is not a very charming place, and there is absolutely nothing to be done there. We got up a good rubber in the evening, and played the whole night through. I then betook myself on board the little steamer " Florence," turned in at once, and slept the sleep of the righteous, never waking till we reached Port Elizabeth the next morning. The " Florence " was crammed with pas sengers, chiefly volunteers on their way to the front; and between Port Elizabeth and East London I made the acquaintance of several good fellows, whom I afterwards met in more stirring scenes. We reached East London without anything interesting taking place, not even in crossing the celebrated bar, concerning which such fearful accounts are written.

It has been my lot to cross that same bar seven times in the last eighteen months, and only once was it even exciting, not to mention dangerous. I must say from all I have seen of it that whenever boats are allowed to go out, the only possible danger must arise from the carelessness or drunkenness of the boatmen. My luggage was, as is usual at this port, smashed to a great extent ; one chest that had safely weathered three voyages across the Atlantic, was most ably turned into lucifer matches, and the contents scattered all over the place with charming impar tiality. Reader, have you ever visited East London? I trust not for your own sake. Do you pur pose ever doing so ? Let me implore you to postpone your visit sine die. In passing KAFIRLAND ; OR, 8 through this earthly vale, chequered with smiles and tears — especially tears, we have to pass unavoidably through many sorrows and times of sadness, which in spite of our utmost efforts will still leave bitter memories behind.

Let me assure you it is im possible to be in East London without a feeling of intense gloom and depression coming over you, and you will never recall the time of your sojourn there without stimu lants at once suggesting themselves to your mind. Picture to yourself sundry bleak and barren sand-hills on the bank of a muddy stream, vegetation being conspicuous by its absence, also a good many shanties, leans-to, sheds, et cetera, scattered about, as though they had been dropped from the heavens, or rather pushed up from the other place, which form the town, and you have East London before you ! Mosquitoes abound, and bands of the most awful-looking Kafir convicts may be seen either at work or going to and returning from it, escorted by armed police men. No one ever lands here who can possibly avoid doing so, and the object of every one who does so is to move on as quickly as he can.

I trust your own hasty flight from East London, which will surely take place if you enter it, will never become a fact in history. The next day, as there was unfortunately no train to take us on sooner, we went to King William's Town ; and having seen to the safe bestowing of my impedimenta, I reported myself at head-quarters. KAFIRLAND ; OR, 10

Chapter II

Eising of the Gaikas — Murder of the Taintons — Appointment to command of Native Levies — King William's Town in excitement — Taking command of Corps — Fingoes as walkers — As eaters — Kei Eoad — Night patrol — March to Komgha — Dead bodies at Draaibosch — 88th Light Tnfantry at Komgha — - Ablutions of a certain officer who shall be nameless. At this time the rising of the Gaika tribe was a painful fact. The two Taintons and Brown had been brutally murdered in cold blood, and the action at Draaibosch had taken place within the last few days. The Gealekas were assembled again in the Transkei, and were all ready for more fighting, in spite of the thrashing they had already received, and having been hurried out of their own country. The fact was thereby clearly demonstrated that they had not received a lesson nearly severe enough, and that in reality the war must be begun over again.

With this state of affairs plainly before me, I was not altogether surprised that instead of being directed to take up my residence as a magistrate, I was asked by Government if I would take command of a Fingo levy which had been raised in Keiskamma Hoek, a village about twenty-five miles from King William's Town. This levy was already in the field, and was only lacking a com mandant to be ready for whatever might turn up. I can truly say I was delighted with this appointment, which I gladly accepted, though I had grave doubts as to my competency. I set to work at once to get what was neces sary in the shape of camp equipage for my self and Jim, such as blankets and a few cookings utensils, but I did not wish to encumber myself with many things, and all our kit, except two small blankets each, was contained in one pair of saddle-bags and one pair of wallets.

Government provided me with a horse, which I chose from the troop at the mounted police barracks, and a most trusty and well behaved steed he turned out, poor beast ! many a long and weary day he KAFIRLAND ; OR, 12 carried me, and at one time he was lucky indeed when his rations, and time to eat them, could be got together. I was two days in King William's Town, and was staying with my old friend Sive wright, at the Telegraph office, who gave me, as ever, a most hearty welcome, helping me in every way, and speeding the parting guest. I have always thoroughly appreci ated that most sensible piece of advice : " Welcome the coming — speed the parting guest ! " I take it for granted that the word " speed" by no means implies to hurry the one who is taking his departure, but to assist him to the best of one's power in be ginning his journey, instead of hindering by vague and ill-timed wishes that he could just wait a little longer, when he is anxious to begin whatever work either duty or pleasure may have called him to put his hand to.

King William's Town, or " King," as it is more often called, was at this time in a tremendous state of excitement. Telegrams from the front kept coming continually, both night and day. The office was open always, as far as receiving messages along the wire was concerned, and the number of them that came through, and the amount of work that was accomplished, seemed almost incredible. The hotels aud lodging-houses were crammed full from floor to roof, and it was almost impossible to get a bed for money, — love was never even mentioned. I don't think, after some experience in the country, that love would help any one at all while journeying in Kaffraria. I certainly never heard of anything yet being attained by the offer of that common, but priceless article. Volunteers in uniforms of every colour and description under the sun, might be seen thronging the streets, and more especially the hotels, and occasionally detach ments started for the front, or continued their journey through, after a short halt for a "liquor up" all round.

The conversation was nothing but the impending war, whether in the streets, in the hotels, in the stores, or wherever you went, nothing else was spoken of. Revolvers and blankets were at a pre mium ; reaping-hooks and sheets were never mentioned. In fact the most martial spirit KAFIRLAND ; OR, 14 was abroad, and even the clerks in the shops and warehouses were volunteering for active service, and in most cases were allowed to proceed to the front by their employers, without any reduction being made in their salaries during their time of absence. Such was the state of affairs when, on the 3rd of January, 1878, I took my place in the early train, on my way to Kei Road, where I was to meet the men whom I was to have the honour of commanding. There were with me C, my adjutant and interpreter, Jim, and my black retriever "Hettie."

I did not know what to do with the latter, as I had no place of safety in which to leave her, and so I took her with me, and she turned out nothing but a pleasure, never being in the way at all. She certainly saw as much as any one of what was to be seen, and was in action many times, and towards the close of the war she made me a present of eleven puppies, which appeared in my tent one fine morning. On arriving at Kei Road, about twenty miles east of " King," I immediately went to look for the Fingo camp, and was soon in the midst of my " lambs," " braves," or whatever you like to call them. I can assure you, dear reader, I felt most particularly small. They were indeed a motley -looking crew. There were only 250 of them, but my corps was very soon to be increased, and I certainly cannot say I was grieved at only having a small one to begin my labours upon.

Their dresses were peculiar, and varied to an enormous extent. When I came among them they were, so to speak, at ease, sitting or lying about round their fires, with small fences of bushes as shelters from the wind, withhere and there piles of assegais and guns leaning against them. A few of the men were fairly well clad in suits of cord, but most of them were in very dilapidated garments of every size, shape, and de scription, and their headgear was something marvellous to behold. Two of them had on old top hats, which looked, under the circumstances, more ridiculous than anything else. About twenty of the rank and file were mounted on their own horses, and the rest were foot-soldiers ; all the officers were mounted. KAFIRLAND; OR, I proceeded at once to " fall them in," and address them through an interpreter, and find out if they had any complaints to make.

They were, I must say, taken apart from their dress, a very fine lot of men, and I should say, averaged five feet nine inches. I certainly think all theKafir tribes, with whom I have had anything to do, are physically splendid men, and most beautifully made. In strength they are not equal to Englishmen, but their lissomness and activity are wonderful. The contortions into which they can put their bodies are surprising, and any of them between forty and fifty years old can twist themselves about in a manner that an English boy of fifteen would find impossible, without dislocating half the joints in his body. As walkers, I have never seen their equals. A corps of 500 Fingoes would march fifty miles in a day, and it would be a most exceptional case if a single man were tired out and unable to proceed during the march.

I know a great deal about walking, and I am quite certain that the best gentleman pedestrians we have would have no chance with an average Fingo. In stating this, I don't mean to include the two or three, or perhaps half dozen very best we can produce at home, but a really good sound walker who can cover fifty miles during daylight on an English summer day. This, as I well know, is not such an easy thing as it sounds. Reader ! have you ever chuckled to your self over the distance men state they have walked during a day's partridge-shooting? I have often heard men talk of walking three miles an hour when engag-ed in this most heavenly occupation, while I know well they haven't gone a mile and a half an hour. Two miles an hour, unless birds are very scarce, is uncommonly quick work in getting over the ground after partridges.

Any average Fingo would walk fifteen miles be fore beginning shooting, and carry a good weight of cartridges and game, say twenty five pounds all day and home again after wards, and think nothing of it. I am, how ever, digressing. The first difficulty I had to contend with — with my children, for they look on their commanding officer as their father pro tern. — was this, they had received mealies, or Indian c KAFLRLAND ; OR, 18 corn, as rations, but no utensils whatever to cook it in. This was, I quite thought, " hard lines." I have not the least leaning towards pampering our black brethren, but I certainly agreed with them in this instance, that Indian corn, with no power of reducing it to cooked food, was, to say the least of it, very hard and uninteresting fare. I had much labour with the commissariat officers before I could get meal for them instead of mealies ; but I was successful at last, and great was the rejoicing in camp.

I believe I immediately rose immensely in the estimation of the corps. The men received at this time half-a-crown a day and their rations, which consisted of one pound of meal and one-and a-half pounds of meat. This would be ample for a European, but did not satisfy the Fingoes, although they seemed to do well enough on it. Anyhow, they never got their rations increased. They are tremendous feeders, especially when they can get meat. When we had quantities of captured cattle, as was very often the case a little later, the amount of meat they consumed was quite horrible, usque ad nauseam literally ; for when we had captured cattle there was always more sick ness in camp than at other times. I am afraid to say how much meat a Fingo would eat in twenty-four hours, for I know I should not be believed.