In the Land of Cecil Rhodes

Preface

. I ventdke to offer an account of niy travels and work in Rhodesia and Gazaland to English and Dutch friends with happy thoughts and feelings. The sub stance of these chapters has been delivered in the course of several lectures given at Montagu, Robert son, Worcester, Wellington, the Paarl and Capetown. Some of my friends thought that it would be necessary and advantageous to let a large audience know what they, with deep interest and emotion, heard Avhenever I had the pleasure of addressing them. With this view I gladly offer to the British and South African public the result of my mission. As representative of the Dutch Reformed Church in Rhodesia and Gazaland, I place an official stamp on these pages. The observations recorded will bear the impress of unvarnished truth. They will, I hope, convince all that God has signally blessed the mission of my Church in the land of large-hearted and bene volent Cecil Rhodes.

CONTENTS. CHAP. PAGE I. The Call .... . . . 1 II. The Departure ....... 7 III. Off to Pretoria ...... 15 IV. To Pietersburg ....... 23 V. On tub way to Tuli ...... 28 VI. Victoria 38 VII. Feeling my way to Charter .... 50 VIII. Buluwayo ........ 57 IX. To the North-East ...... 65 X. Gazaland ........ 72 XI. Back to Salisbury ...... 8G XII. Umyati and Victoria ..... 95 XIII. Once more at Buluwayo ..... 10-1 XIV. Home HI. XV. To Rhodesia for the last time . . .117 b

Chapter I. The Call

The Dutch Reformed Church, with its extensive mission work in the Colony, the Free State and Transvaal, and its numerous congregations from Capetown to the Limpopo, has never been behind to further the interests of God's kingdom amongst white and black. The Church, often imperfectly represented by those who have no intimate knowledge of its vast extent and influence, is the oldest and largest denomi nation in South Africa and the adjoining States, forming the larger portion of the white inhabitants. The Free State and Transvaal have received their inhabitants in the main from the Mother Colony, and our Church is predominant by far in those lands. The responsibility in spiritual matters vesting in the Colonial Church may be best understood when it is stated that in 1895 there were 210,399 souls, with 91,581 church members in the Colony; in the Free State 72,355 souls, with 29,944 members; in the B Transvaal 59,516 souls, with 27,064 members; in Natal 4,360 souls, with 2,045 members; and in Bechuanaland (since annexed to the Cape Colony) 4,415 souls, with 1,747 church members, giving a total of 351,985 souls and 152,901 Church members, all Europeans or whites, belonging to our Church.

In addition to this the Home Mission in the Cape Colony counts 27 missionaries with parishes and synodical control amongst the coloured population, and the Foreign Mission occupies six stations in the Transvaal ; Bechuanaland, Mochuli and Gordonia having their own large mission stations with a staff of missionaries and teachers, some of these stations being under the control of full-fledged ministers of the Dutch Reformed Church, whilst Nyassaland has a staff of several missionaries, both men and women, all engaged in propagating the doctrines of salvation to heathens in far-off portions of our Continent. The Dutch farmer has been known from the earliest history of our country to be fond of nomadic life. In this condition he has proved to be a valuable pioneer of civilisation in lands' to the north of the Limpopo and even the Zambesi.

Desirous of having a farm, where he has wide bounds, he invariably, when his progeny becomes too large, seeks for fresh pastures and settles down in his new domains with perfect composure, relying on whatever he has succeeded to bring over from the old home in the form of cattle, household goods and cash, and his seldom-erring gun. He commences to build up his home and farm re quirements afresh, and in a few years becomes a well to-do inhabitant of the new land. THE CALL. 3 It was to be foreseen, when the genius of Mr. Rhodes had succeeded in obtaining entrance into Mashonaland for white pioneers, that a host of farmers, belonging to the Dutch Reformed Church, would flock together in quest of new lands, to build up new homes. Hardly had it become known that a Company, endowed with a Charter by the British Government, was in paramount authority over Mashonaland, than hundreds of farmers proceeded to the Limpopo, and such as were disposed to submit to the generous and civilised demands and rules of the Company obtained large and valuable farms, where they settled down, and constantly caused fresh settlers to come over and peacefully occupy farms close to the pioneer farmers, where the majority are engaged in pursuing their pastoral avocations in peace and proportionate comforts.

Tbe Church had been made aware from time to time of the religious needs of these people. Invariably, be it said to the credit of our members (with few exceptions), the farmer has not only his gun to rely on in moments of need, but is wont to have his Bible and his Prayer-book with him for daily use. Give him his farm and a small stock of agricultural inmle ments, with some cattle, his wife and his children around him, and he feels very happy and in blissful rest ; but when eventide approaches he loves to gather as many as may be with him around the family board and engage in Divine worship, however simple it may be in form or expression. The farmers of Mashona land were no exception to this golden rule; and, as soon as they were initially settled, there was a craving for religious worship, and celebration of those holy b rites which the great Bishop of all souls, Christ Jesus our Lord, did institute.

Before the settlement of such farmers had been accomplished, the Church, with commendable prompti tude, had thought of the need of the heathen Mashonas. Even before the Company had sway in these regions, attempts had been made to send native evangelists from Zoutpansberg to the remote Banyai ; but the mission proved abortive. The proud and bloodthirsty Lobengula swayed the fate of the Mashonas, and his murderous impis traversed their land from time to time, rifling the homes and kraals, and butchering all the inmates that were useless for their purposes. The result of his impis coming in contact with the Company's forces is now a matter of history ; utterly crushed, the name and terror of the Matabele despot belong to the past. The Gospel cause, held in the balance whilst the wild heathen raged in Matabeleland, is now having widespread victories, and the peaceful pursuits of agriculture and commerce are now found where formerly it was impossible for the white man to appear.

This is the blessing brought on by the crushing defeat of Lobengula and his warriors. Mission stations are springing up under the wings of various denominations, and amongst these the mission work of the Dutch Reformed Church at Morgenster, in the Victoria district, is taking a prominent place. There we have a missionary, a medical missionary, and a mission-farmer, together with seven native evangelists, occupying stations from the river Lundi to the regions near Charter, and the Sabi in the north. THE CALL. 5 The Church had been mindful also of the religious needs of the white members. Four years ago two of our ablest ministers, the Rev. Mr. Stegman and the Rev. Mr. A. Hofmeyr, were deputed to go to those northerly regions on what may be termed a prospect ing mission. They were to visit the farmers in Mashonaland and report what was to be done for the religious needs of our people.

A well-equipped expe dition was carefully prepared, cordially supported both by the Church and Mr. Rhodes, and the members of that expedition returned to the Colony six months after with one, the chief of the party, left behind in Johannesburg ; the pioneer minister of our first Church efforts amongst the whites gave his life. As soon as the report of the surviving minister had been placed in the hands of our Church, fresh efforts were made, and after some fruitless attempts to induce ministers of experience to undertake the work, a highly-talented brother, the Rev. P. Nel, was ordained to proceed to Mashonaland to start the Church work, He laboured indefatigably between Victoria and Salisbury, and was forced to give up the work partly on account of fever undermining his system, and partly on account of the Matabele War.

The work was brought to a sudden standstill, and left in abeyance until the Synod of the Church did meet in 1894. At that General Assembly it was resolved to take up the work once more, to select a minister with or without a family, and to call upon the colonial congregations for support. Early in 1895, after private attempts to induce younger ministers to proceed to Rhodesia had failed, the Moderamen openly appealed TV THE LAND OF CECIL RHODES. to the patriotism of the ministers to come forward and offer the services of which the Church was in need. This appeal made me respond before the Mercy-seat to go forward, if required, and be of service to those sheep that were without a shepherd, moved with compassion to see them wandering about full of spiritual and temporal infirmities. It so happened, when, during the middle part of Lent, I was reading the 6th chapter of Isaiah, that I exclaimed, in answer to the question, " Whom shall I send ?

" " Lord, send me." I repeated this feeling to a brother minister, and the result was that a few days after the official offer was made to me. I received it on Friday evening, the 1st of March, requested the Moderamen to meet me on the 6th of March, placed the matter before the Kerkeraad of Wynberg on the 8th of March, and on Sunday morning, the 10th of March, at the conclusion of the service, announced, to the astonishment of many friends, that I intended on the last day of that month to deliver my farewell sermon, and give up the old-established comforts of the most cultured parish of South Africa for the pioneer work that might fall to the lot of a Dutch Reformed minister in Rhodesia. How hard it was to perform this resolution will appear in the next chapter.

Chapter II. The Depaetuee

It was indeed not an easy matter to carry out this resolution. During the twelve years of my ministry at Wynberg many engagements had entwined their endearing and engrossing influences around me. I found that it required more courage to sever the ties that bound me to my several engagements than to have made up my mind to face the difficulties of mission work. On commencing, as a first duty, con sequent on my publicly declared resolution, to write out resignations, I found that not less than twenty three offices had to be vacated in the Church, the parish, and the State. I wrote out as many as I could, directing them to the various bodies with which I was connected ; but when it came last of all to the position of Chairman of the Board of the Public Schools, I had repeatedly to ask for grace and strength to perform the task.

That I had taken no small share in the development of public school life in the suburban parish the following documents (of which an abstract is given) will show. The Lady Principal wrote to tbe Board : — I understand that, at the meeting of the Board this afternoon, Mr. Strasheim will tender his resignation as Chairman. May I ask if you will kindly convey to him, at the meeting, my most sincere thanks for the help — often at great sacrifice of time and effort — which he has afforded me as Principal of this school. He has never hesitated to do his utmost to lighten any trouble or to remove any difficulty which has come to me in my responsible position here. I have also to be most grateful to him for much personal kindness from time to time shown to me, quite apart from my connection with the school.

It gives me much pleasure to recognise to the Board these obligations under which I am to the retiring Chairman. The Superintendent General of Education wrote, in response to my resignation as Chairman of the Boards of the First Class Public Schools : — That Dr. Muir has learnt your decision with the greatest regret, and desires to express to you his hearty appreciation of the constant interest you have taken in educational matters at Wynberg, and your faithful and most successful services in connection with the management of its Public Schools. The Secretary, on behalf of the Girls' Public School, wrote : — The Managers of the Girls' First Class Public School, Wynberg, have accepted with very great regret your resignation as Member and Chairman cf the Board, and have desired me to convey to you their very great appreciation of the valuable services rendered to the said school for nearly eleven years.

They have passed the following resolutions : (1) " That in the resignation of the Bev. P. A. Strasheim, the Members of the Board are conscious of, and deeply regret, the loss of one of their associates, who, for nearly eleven years, say from the starting of the school, has, with credit to himself and advantage to the school, filled the very important position of Chairman of the Board of Management, and there fore tender him their best thanks for the great good he has done in behalf of the Ladies' Seminary, Wynberg. " They wish him every success in the very important duties he has undertaken in accepting the appointment made by the Synodical Commission of the Dutch Rerormed Church of South THE DEPARTURE. 9 Africa to organise and establish congregations among the scattered members of their Church in Mashonaland and Matabeleland.

(2) " That this Board unanimously resolves, that the sum of £100 be placed at the disposal of the Chairman (Itev. P. A. Strasheim) with the thanks of the Board for the services he has rendered for education at Wynberg, and the Ladies' Seminary in particular, and that a copy of this resolution be sent to the Kev. P. A. Strasheim." Before closing this letter, allow me, as Secretary, to tender you my sincere thanks for the able help and assistance afforded me during the nearly eleven years we worked together ; you never hesitated to do your utmost in lightening any trouble or removing any difficulty which had come in my way. My prayers are that you may be sustained in health and strength and be very successful in tbe self-sacrificing task you have undertaken on behalf of the scattered members of our beloved Church in the far Mashonaland and Matabeleland.

God be with you ! Quickly did these last weeks pass. Friends had to be seen for the last time, members to whom the Word of Life had been preached for so many years in God's House and the parish homes, the sick and the afflicted — all these, the aged included, had to be visited for the last time. From early morn till late at night I was engaged in this very sad work. It was then I realised how deep the affection was which God's poor and the sick entertained towards him, the weak servant, who had from time to time, in the name of the benevolent Physician of souls, entered their homes to relieve their wants of soul and body for Christ's sake. Many a time I had to pray for strength silently, to shake hands for the last time, and tear myself away from the proffered embrace or parting kiss. I hope it may never be my lot again to go through such mental trouble as was experienced in those last weeks of March 1895.

Added to this exciting leave-taking, I had to unshelve my Lares and Penates. The library had to be brought down ; the mottoes, which had so often given me fresh strength when, weary in mind and body, I had come home from my rounds of mercy, and which seemed to mourn that they were no more to impart courage and devotion from the treasured wall-spots to which the eye had grown accustomed instinctively to turn, were laid aside. Arrangements had to be made for a temporary home at Wellington for my wife and children, from whom I would soon have to part, as all of us thought for at least three years; the last Feast of Love had to be celebrated with the congregation, whose steward I had been so many years in the husbandry of God, and at last the solemn preparations took place in the closet to say the last words in God's House to all that wished by their presence to hear the final message that had to be delivered in the name of Christ.

It was God's wish that I should bring to that congregation the Apostolic benediction contained in 2 Cor. xiii. 14, as my last wish for their future welfare. In tears and words of love the benediction was pronounced for the last time to a flock, in whose midst there had been much of silent ancl open prayer that tbey might be made perfect in Christ Jesus. In response to this benedictive address the Senior Elder requested me to come down from the pulpit and receive the following address, accompanied with a handsome sum of money to be used for my comfort on the impending journey and mission tour : — Reverend Sir and Respected Pastor, With feelings of deep regret we heard of your resolution to terminate your labours, of nearly twelve years' duration, iu our THE DEPARTURE. midst, in obedience to a call to attend to the spiritual wants of our scattered co-religionists in the interior of Africa.

We feel it incumbent upon us at this time to express our appreciation of your woik in our midst. You have preached to us the Lord's word and will continually in faithfulness, earnestness, and love. The sick and dying were faithfully visited by you ; you were a source of comfort to the afflicted. Wherever you knew poverty to exist you offered relief with advice and aid. You have made great sacrifices for the congregation at Wynberg ; you were indefatigable in doing good to others. You have always shown meekness of spirit ; and your walk in our midst was after the example of Christ. With reference to education and teaching, you have done more than the congregation could ever have expected. At a time when the lambs of our flock, especially the young daughters, were obliged to attend schools of other denominations for their instruction (which frequently brought about wrong impressions iu their religious habits) you were a promoter in the erection of the Ladies' Seminary.

The Victoria Cottage Hospital and the Boys' High School are additional proofs of your zeal exhibited in our midst. We hope that the ties which have connected yourself and the congregation, now dissolved by the inscrutable design of the Lord, will remain to exist in spirit. With full conviction we wish to testify that more than one of the congregation feels broken-hearted by your departure from our midst. Your wife was always at your side and assisted you in the comforting of the sick, in the creating of our prayer meetings, and the arrangements for our annual bazaar. As you have done here what your hand did find to do, and the Lord hath called you to another sphere of labour in His vineyard, we will not open our mouth but rest in the will of the Lord. Beceive our best wishes for your suture.

May the Lord grant that the seed scattered by you may not be blighted, but bring forth fruit for Eternity ! The Lord bless you and your home, and crown your future career with blessing and prosperity ; may He gird you with fresh courage and strength to perform the new task with honour. May He safely conduct you to your new sphere of labour ; may He be your rod and your staff at all times. The Lord bless you and keep you. The Lord make His face shine upon you and be gracious unto you. The Lord lift up His countenance upon you and give you peace. Kindly receive a small present from the Kerkeraad and congre gation as proof of our indebtedness to you for what you have done to us. Use it as you like, especially to make your journey to the Interior as comfortable as possible. In the afternoon I had to take leave of Christ's lambs.

I addressed the Sunday-school children on Ecclesiastes xii. 1. The opening hymn was touching to the core, commencing with the lines freely trans lated — " Here on earth is pain and sorrow, When we hail the parting morrow." However, the Master gave grace to let the lambs feel for the last time that it was right to remember the care-taking Creator and Preserver, to accept the loving Saviour, and to be consecrated to a life of holy service by the sanctifying Spirit. A touching address, read by the Superintendent, accompanied with a handsome Bible, brought the parting with my lambs to a painful close. In the evening I took leave from the mission or coloured congregations. Although, as explained in the previous chapter, this congregation had its own minister and spiritual government, my connection with it, as minister of the parent congregation, had been of such an intimate and endearing nature that it was felt to be my duty to meet them in the parent church building.

There was hardly room for stand ing ; so full was the building that several stood at the doorways outside to hear the last words. With a congregation listening with rapt attention, deeply attached to me, although I had not been their pastor, THE DEPARTURE. 13 it was a heavenly hour as I spoke in simple language what my heart did feel for them from the sacerdotal benediction contained in Numbers vi. 24-26. Their minister rose at the conclusion, and in very felicitous words presented me with an address full of apprecia tive love, and a wish that I should purchase something as a " keepsake " from a sum of money handed to me at the close. With a few days' stay and leave-taking from intimate friends I left the parish to put my temporary home in order elsewhere before my final departure, promising to return a few days after to receive the final farewell from the Wynberg public in the shape of an address, read to me by the Chief Justice at the close of the last meeting of the Board of Managers of the Wynberg High School, over whicli I had had the honour and pleasure to preside since its establishment.

The address, signed by the foremost men in the suburbs, was as follows : — We, the undersigned, feel that we cannot allow you to leave Wynberg without giving our testimony to the excellent work which you have done for the advancement of education in this neighbourhood. We would refer in particular to the establishment of the Girls' Public School in 1884, and the High School for Boys in 1892, both of which schools owe their existence to your foresight and energy. The public are greatly indebted to you for the great administra tive ability aud untiring zeal displayed hy you as Chairman of their respective Boards of Management. We would also refer to your valuable work on behalf of the Victoria Cottage Hospital, and to your general interest in all other philanthropic undertakings. After this I disappeared from the scene of public life in the suburban parish, thankful to my Redeemer that His work had been well appreciated by all for whom I had prayed and laboured and still do pray.

That I was not yet forgotten by these Boards after my departure is shown by the following extracts, taken from the subsequent Annual Reports of the Public Schools. The Boys' School Board remarked : — "The Board of Managers regret to state that the Rev. Mr. Strasheim, after doing excellent service to the school as Chairman since its establishment, has resigned owing to his departure from Wynberg for another and wider sphere of labour. His place as Chairman has been temporarily filled by the appointment of Sir J. H. de Villiers."- And the Girls' School Board stated : — "The Managers cannot close this report without referring to the great loss this Institution has suffered through the departure of its former Chairman, the Rev. P. A. Strasheim. His zeal and untiring energy have been of unspeakable value.

To his devotion to the cause we, in large measure, are indebted for the existence of the Institution and its present prosperous and satisfactory condition. " We would tender him our heartiest thanks for the work he has done, aud express our sincerest hope that God may abundantly bless him in the work he is now doing in the far north." The Managers of the Boys' High School had, on a previous occasion, passed the following resolution unanimously, it having been moved by the Chief Justice, Sir J. H. de Villiers : — " In accepting the resignation of the Rev. P. A. Strasheim, as member and Chairman of this Board, the members desire to record their appreciation of his valuable services and devotion in the cause of education, and more especially in the promotion of the interests of this school, and they wish him every success in his future career." My thanks are recorded in these pages to those whose kind feelings prompted them to think in his absence of one who loves them still.

Chapter III. Off To Peetoma

Befoee I could leave Wellington I had still to be formally installed as representative of the Dutch Reformed Church in Rhodesia. This happened in our Cathedral Church in Capetown, in the presence of the Moderator, and many of the Brethren of my Presbytery. I had for nearly thirteen years been clerk to that Presbytery, and it had been the wish of its Chairman that as many as could possibly be present should bid me farewell. It was not possible for them to be in Session at the time, and so no resolution of their feelings for me could be taken ; but in October last year, whilst I was in Gazaland, the Nestor of the ministers proposed, seconded by the senior minister of the Theological College : — " This meeting is desirous of expressing its appreciation of the great and manifold services rendered by the ex-scribe to this Presbytery, and rejoiceth on account of the blessed work which he is now per forming in Mashonaland.

The meeting testifieth to its continued interest in that work, and prayeth that the blessings of Almighty God may rest upon him." It was carried with acclamation. In the midst of a large assemblage of friends and ministers I received my charge from the Moderator, the Rev. Andrew Murray, and having taken leave with a pulpit address on Acts xviii. 21, I went my way to Rhodesia a few days after, accompanied by a young missionary and a servant, to start the work upon arrival in that far-off land where we had heard that the harvest truly was plenteous, but the labourers few. There are three roadways to the land of Cecil Rhodes. Two are partly by rail and partly by coach ; the third is over the sea to Beira, and thence by river, boat, and rail and coach in successive stages to Salisbury. The first leads vid Mafeking, through the land of Linchore and Khama, Mr. Chamberlain's great friends ; the second goes vid Pretoria and Pietersburg.

Both lead to Buluwayo. I had resolved to go by the middle road and on my way to break journey at Bloemfontein, the capital of the Orange Free State. Whilst at the latter place I had the honour to conduct Divine service in the morning and evening of the Lord's Day, and my appeal for help in this undertaking met with a hearty response from minister, kerkeraad, and congregation, several of the high state officials, amongst them the Chairman of the Volksraad, Mr. Fraser, taking a foremost and most liberal part. Having taken leave of these dear friends, I boarded the train at the station, where I had the pleasure of meeting the newly consecrated Bishop of Mashonaland, and cementing the first bonds of friendship in the common cause of Christ's kingdom. We met each OFF TO PRETORIA. other again at Pietersburg in the Transvaal, both on our way to the far north to look after the interests of the churches we represented.

Whilst in the train I heard several remarks about officious train and customs officers ou the Transvaal railway section, and amidst all warnings and gloomy forebodings of impending trouble I could only afford to smile or pretend unbelief. I had taken the precaution to wear every article of my little stock of clothing, and had invited an official of the Transvaal Customs to come to my home, to whom I showed the contents of my trunks and portmanteaus. I had requested him to inform the head officials of my approaching visit to the territory of Oom Paul, and that I would come armed with a double-barrelled gun and 1,000 cartridges. I knew that this gentleman had given the required notice, and also that the very urbane and kind heads of this department would cause no trouble. Moreover, I had obtained a special permit from the chief traffic manager in Capetown to have my gun and ammunition conveyed with the same train in which I was travelling.