The Crimean Campaign with 'The Connaught Rangers,' 1854-56 ... With a map

Front matter

The Crimean Campaign WITH "THE CONNAUGHT RANGERS," 1854-55-56. THE CRIMEAN CAMPAIGN WITH "THE CONNAUGHT RANGERS," 1854-55-56. BY Lieut.-Colonel NATHANIEL STEEVENS, LATE 20™ REGIMENT AND 88™ (CONNAUGHT RANGERS). WITH A MAP. GRIFFITH AND FARRAN, West Corner of ST. PAUL'S CHURCHYARD, LONDON. 1878. (The rights of translation and of reproduction are reserved.) TO General Sir HORATIO SHIRLEY, K.C.B. colonel of the 88™ (connaught rangers), IN GRATEFUL REMEMBRANCE OF HAPPY YEARS PASSED UNDER HIS COMMAND IN THE "RANGERS" AND ON THE STAFF, THIS BOOK Js wspecifailg §£&kat«_- BY THE AUTHOR. (The rights of translation and of reproduction are reserved!) TO General Sir HORATIO SHIRLEY, K.C.B. COLONEL OF THE 88™ (CONNAUGHT RANGERS), IN GRATEFUL REMEMBRANCE OF HAPPY YEARS PASSED UNDER HIS COMMAND IN THE "RANGERS" AND ON THE STAFF, THIS BOOK Js HSptdfwIIg §_eiwa_eb BY THE AUTHOR.

Preface

. I have drawn up the narrative contained in the following pages from my own letters and journal, written during the war with Russia in 1854-5-6, throughout which time I was present with the army in the Crimea. I have also added a few incidents and other details, which may enhance the value of the work. It contains a simple record of my impressions and observations during the campaign, and was composed without any idea that it would ever see the light in a printed form ; but, at the request of several friends, who concur in thinking that a personal account of that eventful period, so memorable in the military annals of our country, may prove generally interesting, I have been induced, with some diffidence, to consent to its publication. The narrative of the Connaught Rangers at the Battle of Inkermann was originally compiled by me —

PREFACE.

. VIII from my journal, as well as from the statements of officers present with the regiment during the action — for the information of Mr. Kinglake, who introduced the purport of its contents into the Cabinet Edition of " The Invasion of the Crimea." I am much indebted to him for the courteous permission, which has enabled me to place before my readers the ex cellent Map, which accompanied his graphic description of that battle. The device on the cover of the book represents the badge on the breast-plate formerly worn by the officers of the " Connaught Rangers." N. S. London, May, 1878. CONTENTS.

Chapter I

Introductory remarks — Orders for active service — Embark at Liverpool — Our voyage -Arrival at Constantinople— Scutari Barracks — Constantinople — The Bazaar — Leander's Tower — A Turk's opinion of the British soldier — Our first encampment — Review before the Seraskier Pasha — Pitiable condition of the women — Formation of the Light Division — A fire — The Commissariat at fault— The Golden Horn—" The Sweet Waters"— Horse Bazaar — Slave Bazaar — A visit to St. Sophia, and other sights in Stamboul — Terrific storm : an officer drowned — Hamals — Therapia— Order to embark Pp. i — 33

Chapter II

Embark for Varna — Varna — Our encampment — French camp — French and Turkish soldiers — Our first march — Encampment at Aladyn — A long ride — Our faulty knowledge of the Turkish language — Blots in our organisation — Outlying picket — Camp " shaves" — Camp life — The surrounding country — The French at Varna — No transport — Races — Under orders for Silistria — Review before General Canrobert — How the Adjutant's pony was marked — Our drill-ground — Commissariat irregularities — Turkish wounded — March to Devna — A dusty encampment — Stragglers — Death of the Hero of Silistria — Hair-cutting a la mode — Review before Omar Pasha — The Bulgarians — A poetical effusion — A reconnaissance — Devna Races — The moustache movement — The CONTENTS. X cholera — We shift our ground— Camp at Monastir — Pravadi — Our first draft— Continued increase of cholera— Appointed Assistant- Engineer— " The diggings" — Moustaches to be worn— Camping-ground changed — Tumuli excavated — Orders for em barkation—On the march— Deaths of Major Mackie and Assistant-Surgeon Shegog — Embark at Varna . . Pp. 34 — 72

Chapter III

Our-destination revealed — The cholera continues — Start of the expedition — Off Odessa — The Crimea sighted — Eupatoria — Landing at Old Fort — A wet bivouac — A Russian colonel's house — A false alarm — The Tartars — Our first march — First sight of the enemy — A skirmish — The Alma sighted — Battle of the Alma — My first picket on service — On the march — The Katscha — The Belbek — The flank march — Khutor Mackenzie — Valley of the Tchernaya — Surrender of Balaklava — Bitter Almonds — Kadikoi — First sight of Sebastopol — A deaf Englishman — Final bivouac — Arrival of tents — Breaking ground — Picket duty — On the sick list — Our batteries finished — First bombardment — Sharpshooters — Battle of Balaklava — Little Inkermann — Our Adjutant wounded — A narrow escape — The cholera — Appointed Assistant- Engineer — My duties — Sebastopol astir . . . . Pp. 73 — 118

Chapter IV

Battle of Inkermann — The field after the action — Employed in field-works — Turkish working parties — Lost in a fog — Terrible storm — Several transports lost — Commencement of hardships among the troops — Promoted Captain — Reinforcements — Failure of transport service — Inclement weather — Scarcity of supplies — Difficulty of cooking — Men in rags — Siege at a standstill — Encamped at Inkermann — Deplorable condition of the men — Rations reduced — Terrible sickness — A skirmish at sea — The Russians at work — Frequent night alarms — A flurried sentry — I CONTENTS. XI rejoin my regiment— A sortie— Bad roads— A Royal gift— A cheerless Christmas Day — Provisions exorbitantly dear — A safe guide — " Jack" and the wandering relief — Incessant duty — Increased sickness — A state of misery — Collapse of the transport-service — No cooking-kettles — Green coffee — Rations un cooked—Scarcity of fuel — Victims to mismanagement — A vigilant Quartermaster — Company-messes established — The gratitude of the men — Trying times for all ranks .... Pp. 119 — 160

Chapter V

Increased sickness — Transport service still collapsed — Chaotic state of affairs — Medicines and stretchers much needed — Skeleton companies — Noble and patient conduct of the men — -Frost-bites — Scurvy — Cabbages and red-tapeism — Oranges vice mules — Our active Quartermaster — Ignorance is bliss — Requisitions — Chaos at Balaklava — Our bat-ponies — Ponies on hire — Rations issued more regularly — A load of boots lost — The Middle Ravine picket — A vigilant Captain — How to keep awake — The Russian Riflemen — A cold day — Severe weather — Scarcity of fuel and warm clothing — John Bull and the Ladies of England — Russian riflemen — A tempting mark — Huts in store — Our batteries silent — Our numbers decreasing — Postal irregularities — A smoky fire — My servant — Wooden legs ad libitum — A deserter — An alarm — Heavy firing — The relief astray — Expensive boots — Taking a lodger — Increasing sickness among the troops — The French on our right — An unlucky kick — Our ponies arrive — A hospital tent — Matters a shade brighter — Church parade — A hospital hut — Foraging — Changes in Balaklava — The British Sub.— An expected attack — Lord Raglan and my stove — A spy — Russians and French very busy — Probable effects of a diet of salt pork — Huts received — Warm clothing, &c. — Zouaves — The correct time — Boarded tents — Times fund — Changeable weather — A French attack — Presents from home — Patriotic housemaids — Paddy and the stamps — Casualties increasing — A quaint dress — Menschikoff" and the button— No more CONTENTS.

XII picket duty— Death of the Emperor Nicholas — Railway and restaurants — New entrenchments — Monastery of St. George — Dark nights— Writing in the trenches— A sortie— Many casualties — A flag of truce — Early parades — Inkermann revisited — Wild flowers Pp. 161— 201

Chapter VI

The hardships of the winter considered A sortie frustrated — Races — The second bombardment — Sole remains of a pony — Sick decreasing — A poultry yard — Fighting Turks — Lieutenant Preston killed — A telegraph office — Mess-hut — Crimean army fund — Capture of rifle pits — Lieutenant-Colonel Egerton killed — A reconnaissance — Distinguished conduct medals — A photographer — A French review — Canrobert's speech — Siege preparations — Expedition to Kertch — Attempted sortie — Paymaster's anxieties — Damp times — Our band revived — Reinforcements — Theatricals — A volunteer officer — Reappearance of cholera — Omar Pasha's Turks — Sardinian troops — The Russians indefatigable — Heat in the trenches — Inspected by Sir G. Brown — Death of Major Norton — Stocks abolished — Balaklava Plain reoccupied — A new ride — A bold Sub. — Announcement of successes — The stirring effect produced — Sickness decreasing — Russian riflemen — A draft — My last ride with Captain Wray — Spoils of war — A new regiment — The third bombardment — The attack upon the quarries — Sad losses in the 88th — A French field hospital — A narrow escape — Our poor fellows buried — Capture of the Mamelon — Flag of truce — Random shots — A fougasse — Hot weather — Fourth Bombardment — First assaults on the Redan and Malakhoff — -Failure of both assaults — Terrible losses — The dust — A court of inquiry — A reduced regiment — Death of Lord Raglan Pp. 202 — 247

Chapter VII

Good-service pension awarded to Colonel Shirley — Telegraphic mes. sage from the Queen — Monastery of St. George — The R.E. at CONTENTS. XIII fault — Our casualties increase — Working parties — A sortie — Hot weather— A Russian picket— The vale of Baidar— SlightU wounded — A Russian deserter — A draft — New faces — A sortie of mice — An expected attack — Our new Brigadier — Heavy casualties —Battle of the Tchernaya— The battle-field— The fifth bombard ment — Early parades — New divisions — A Russian bridge — " Castle-building" — A long range — A sortie — An explosion — Heavy casualties —Our Brigadier's " remains" — Brave artillerymen — The assault of the Redan — Its failure — Terrible casualties — A gallant act — A plucky drum - major — Sebastopol evacuated Pp. 248—283

Chapter VIII

No more trench-duty — French pillagers — Mixed spoils — A visit to Sebastopol — Chambers of horrors — Alma anniversary — Medals — House, not Castle, building — Russian works visited — The town dismantled — A piano — General Simpson's despatch — Our wounded — Comments on the recent assault — The Kinburn Expedition — A farewell dinner to our Brigadier — A new house — Road-making — Terrific explosion — Brevet promotion — " Donnybrook and Vanity Fair" — A steeplechase — Huts vice tents — Pitch not coal — Snow battles — A healthy regiment — Amateur theatricals — Wintry weather — A library — Lectures — Peaceful rumours — Appointed Town-major — Flags of truce — A review — The armistice — Death of Major Ranken, R.E. — The Little Redan — Races — Peace signed — Long rides — The Russian forts — Russian officers — Grand Review Pp. 284 — 319

Chapter IX

A trip into the Crimea — Belbek — Bakhtschiserai — Tchufut-Kaleh — A Russian regiment — Alma — Katcha — Simpheropol — Mahmoud Sultan — Friendly Tartars — The Salghir — Tchadir Dagh — Aloushta — Yalta — Tea a la Russe — Orianda — Aloupka — Prince CONTENTS. XIV Woronzoff's Palace — Troops embarking — Russian guests — Sebastopol harbour— Inspection of Light Division — Golandia — Peace and War contrasted — Distribution of French medals — A Russian souvenir — My last ride in the Crimea — Lord Gough — The Order of the Bath — We embark for England — Our voyage home — Arrival at Portsmouth — Aldershot Camp — Inspected by the Queen — Concluding remarks Pp. 320 — 340 APPENDICES. PAGE A. — Nominal list of Casualties at the Battles of Alma and Inkermann, attack on the Quarries, &c 343 B. — Names of the Officers, &c, awarded Decorations and Medals, and of those promoted by Brevet 351 C. — Return of Casualties during the Crimean War 357 D. — Non-Commissioned Officers appointed to Commissions during the Campaign 355 ILLUSTRATION.

Map of the Field of Inkermann. " How sleep the Brave, who sink to rest By all their Country's wishes blest ! When Spring, with dewy fingers cold, Returns to deck their hallowed mould, She there shall dress a sweeter sod Than Fancy's feet have ever trod." W. Collins (a.d. 1746). ■*■*-•. 77;** H i'iiiwi f//_ t.W«ll_r,lilh,Li.n.li Griffith & Farran,. S*. tkul* Chimhy *, London . CHAP 1 1S54. April THE CRIMEAN CAMPAIGN WITH THE CONNAUGHT RANGERS.

Chapter I

April \th to May 27th, 1854. Before commencing the narrative contained in these pages, I will review briefly the causes which led to the war between Great Britain and Russia during the years 1854-5-6. Nearly forty years had elapsed since England had been engaged in a war in Europe ; and, with the exception of occasional campaigns in distant lands, this country had enjoyed the blessings of an uninterrupted peace during that period ; meanwhile our commercial relations with other countries had considerably in creased, and the prosperity of England appeared to be rapidly progressing. But in 1853 a threatening cloud was arising in the East, which was destined to cast a temporary shade over this country. The Russian Emperor, following the traditional policy of his predecessors, had long regarded the acquisition of Constantinople with a cove tous eye, and only awaited a favourable opportunity for the accomplishment of his ambitious design.

On the ground of religion the Czar soon found an B CHAP I 1854. April. excuse for provoking the hostility of the Porte. Early in 1853 an obscure dispute between some Greek and Latin monks — about the exclusive possession of the " Holy Places" in Palestine — served to afford a plausible pretext for the Emperor Nicholas to demand the con trol over all members of the Greek Church, residing in the Turkish dominions ; a demand which the Turkish Government very naturally rejected ; consequently a Russian force took possession of the principalities of Wallachia and Moldavia, but suffered a severe defeat by the Turkish troops, under Omar Pasha, at the battle of Oltenitza in November, 1854. Russia was now fairly involved in a war with the Porte, and the Czar seemed to reckon upon the con nivance of England, France, and Prussia for the successful accomplishment of his plans ; but, while Prussia and Austria remained aloof, the policy of England was entirely opposed to Russia's ambitious and unjustifiable designs upon Turkey; and France, equally jealous of the desire for territorial aggrandisement by which Russia's motives were actuated, cordially united with Great Britain to restrain the ambition of that country.

The Porte having claimed the assistance of England and France, the combined fleets of these two countries entered the Black Sea in January, 1854. These are, briefly, the causes which led to the war in which England was about to engage ; and the martial spirit of the British nation being now fairly roused, vigorous preparations were made for the approaching struggle, the duration and result of which no one could foretell. In the month of February (1854) intimation was CONNA UGHT RANGERS. 3 CHAI I ic.54. April received at the head-quarters of the 88th Connaught Rangers — then stationed at Bury, Lancashire — that the regiment was to form part of an expeditionary force about to be despatched to Turkey, and the commanding officer (Lieutenant-Colonel Shirley) was instructed to recruit the regiment up to 1000 strong.

Meanwhile negotiations with Russia — continued during the previous winter — having entirely failed, England and France declared war against that country in March, 1854. In the middle of March the Connaught Rangers — then detached at Bury, Burnley, and Ashton-under- Lyne — moved to Fulwood Barracks, Preston, with the view to forming the service and depot companies, preparatory to embarkation. The ranks were rapidly completed to the required strength, receiving a very fine detachment of forty men from the 26th Camero nians, who proved to be a valuable acquisition to the regiment. The depot, consisting of two companies, with Captains Holme and Stopford, Lieutenant Dun ning, and Ensigns Grace, Copley, and Webb, went to Burnley ; and Ensign Maule was appointed Adjutant vice Dunning. We now anxiously awaited final instructions respect ing our future movements ; and in April we received sudden orders to embark for the East, and on the 4th of that month we left Preston for Liverpool at 9.30 a.m. by a special train.

The night before we marched from Preston we had about 1 50 men absent from tattoo : as a precautionary measure the commanding officer caused a party of a B CHAP I 1S54. April sergeant and twelve privates, belonging to the depot, to be told off in waiting to complete our numbers, if necessary ; but these absentees all turned up the fol lowing morning, and every man was present when the regiment embarked, the sergeant and his twelve men returning to the depot, much to their disgust. Before the regiment marched out of barracks at Preston, the Colonel formed square and addressed us, saying, " that he never felt prouder in his life, not a man absent from embarkation ; and that he hoped we should add three or four more jaw-breaking names to the engagements placed on our colours, feeling confi dent that the ' Rangers' of the present day would prove equal to the ' Rangers' of the Peninsular War."

The gallant Colonel also thanked the men for their excellent conduct, and seemed highly gratified at this evidence of the strong feeling of esprit de corps which animated the regiment. We reached Liverpool about eleven a.m., where we were most enthusiastically received in our progress through the town ; the dense crowds cheered us vocife rously, and the windows and balconies were filled with ladies waving handkerchiefs ; as we marched along the streets an old woman, stepping out of the crowd, knelt down before the colours and blessed them. The day fortunately was very fine ; and we embarked on board the Cunard steamer Niagara (Captain Leitch), about noon, 943 souls, besides the crew.* * Marching-out state, 88th Regiment, April 4th, 1854 : Officers. Sergeants. Band. Drummers, &c. R. & F. Total. 32 39 2° 10 810 911 besides women allowed to accompany their husbands.

CONNAUGHT RANGERS. 5 CHAP. i. 1854. April The following officers embarked with the regiment :■— Lieutenant-Colonel Shirley. Lieutenant Ernst. Major Jeffreys. „ Baynes. Captain and Bt.-Maj or Mackie. „ Steevens. Captain Sawrey. „ Wray. „ G. V. Maxwell. „ Grogan. „ Norton. „ Riley. „ Brown. Ensign and Adjutant Maule. „ Bayley. Ensign Henning. „ E. H. Maxwell. „ Browne. ,, Hon. J. J. Bourke. „ Beresford. Lieutenant Burke. „ Radcliffe. „ Crosse. Paymaster Belfield. ,, Corbett. Quartermaster Moore. ,, Maynard. Surgeon Moore. „ Gore. Assistant-Surgeon Shegog. „ Mauleverer. „ Williams. We left Liverpool at three a.m. on the 5th, and at noon we passed Holyhead, the lighthouse signalling, " A prosperous voyage and beat the Russians." The weather was very fine and the sea as calm as a duck-pond. Our quartermaster (Moore), who had served in many campaigns in India, observed that many of us, who had been cheering to-day, would never see " Old England" again — a prediction which, alas ! proved too true.

The band played on the deck in the evening, and we saw the last of " Old England" just before sunset. The following morning we were off the Scilly Isles, though out of sight of land ; the wind having changed, we had more swell than on the previous day, which tended to raise grave doubts in the minds of many, regarding their merits as good sailors. During the day we spoke the Duke of Roxburgh, homeward bound, and signalled to her, " War declared — troops on board." At noon on the 7th we were 157 miles off Cape CHAP. I. 1854. April, Finisterre, and several swallows came on board during the day — a sign of land being near. One of our sergeants (Jones) died suddenly in the evening ; the following day the poor fellow was con signed to his watery grave : a funeral at sea is even a more solemn and impressive scene than it is on land.

During the voyage I shared a cabin with my cap tain, and was very comfortable. About three a.m. on the 8th we were off Cape Finisterre, but a thick haze prevented the land from being seen. A few whales and sharks came near the vessel, and many sail were in sight as the fog cleared. Throughout our voyage our days were passed very similarly. Being generallyup at seven, many took a stroll on deck to sharpen the appetite for breakfast at nine ; after which the deck was again resorted to as the pro menade. After lunching at noon, the time was passed, by some, in whist, chess, or backgammon ; and, by others, in a book, or in endeavouring to make out a sail in the hazy distance. Besides this, we had the usual routine of military duties on board ship. The band played on deck every evening, after which the men amused themselves with dancing, singing, or listening to the witty anecdotes of some long-winded Pat-landers.

The so-called " Ladies' Cabin" was frequently the evening resort of a few of us, who wished to be quiet, either to write or (reclining on a velvet couch) read a book. We passed Cape St. Vincent at one p.m. on the 9th : a CHAP. I. 1854. April fine, bold, rocky coast. On this lofty point stood a lighthouse and convent. Later in the day we met a French man-of-war steam brig. We passed her very close, giving three cheers, which the French sailors returned, their captain standing on the paddle box, waving his cap. It occurred to us as singular that, nearly forty-nine years previously, the British and French fleets had been engaged in a bloody battle near this same spot.* The clearness of the day enabled us to have a good view of the coast. To-day being Sunday, we had Divine Service on deck at ten a.m., when our Colonel officiated, with a drum as his desk.

During the night we signalled with blue lights to a steamer, supposed to be one of the P. and O. boats, Melita. We passed Gibraltar about ten on the morning of the ioth. The weather was very misty, with a stiff easterly wind. On entering the Straits we spoke the Manilla screw steamer. The coast on each side is mountainous, and very rocky. We saw Tangiers, Tarifa (with its little fort and lighthouse), Algesiras, San Roque, and Ceuta — the latter a Spanish fort on the African side. As we passed Gibraltar we signalled, " Niagara— Troops— 88." The Rock rises majestically from the sea, with its strongly-fortified town at its foot. On the African coast, opposite Gibraltar, Ape Hill rose out of the sea to the height of several thousand feet. We passed » The memorable Battle of Trafalgar, October 21st, 1805.

CHAP 1 1S54- April a great many Spanish and Genoese vessels, some with the lateen sails peculiar to the Mediterranean. The weather now became very hot, and a disagreeable hot wind, called Sirocco, blew to-day. We went within thirty miles of the African coast, which rose up from the sea with lofty and cloud-capped mountains, presenting a very fine and bold appearance ; and on the evening of the nth we passed about four miles from Algiers, and saw the light. On the 13th we were off Cape Bon, 180 miles from Malta. Here we passed close to a French vessel called the Etienne, No. 113 Transport, and gave them three cheers. In the afternoon we were off the mountainous island of Pantellaria, with its prettily situated town and cultivated hills, producing olives and grapes. It is said to be volcanic in formation, containing a fathomless lake in the centre.

We were sufficiently close to distinguish the houses. The island is about twenty miles long, and at this time contained 5000 inhabitants, and belonged to Sardinia ; distant from Malta 140 miles. As we progressed we were much struck with the beautiful blue colour of the sea. At two a.m. on the 14th we entered Malta harbour. It was a beautiful moonlight night, and we anchored in Commercial Creek, having completed our voyage, so far, in nine days and twenty-two hours. We found that many regiments had left for Gallipoli, leaving in garrison the 9th, 62nd, 68th, the " Buffs," and the " Guards." I landed in the afternoon with our Adjutant and some others, and explored the "city of palaces," as CHAP I. 1854. April Valetta is called ; but, as it was Good Friday, the shops were unfortunately all closed.

Having com pleted the dirty operation of coaling, we left Malta at midnight for Gallipoli. It blew very fresh during the night, and the sea was rather rough, which considerably thinned our numbers at breakfast next morning. At noon on Sunday, the 16th, we sighted the Morea, and passed Cape Matapan in the evening. The scenery here was very beautiful, with gigantic snow-capped mountains rising majestically from the sea, and villages picturesquely scattered among them. About nine p.m. we passed Cerigo and Cape St. Angelo, where, it was said, a hermit resided who, in former times, used to keep watch for the pirates of these seas against the approach of men-of-war. This morning we were delayed for half an hour, the engine having become overheated in consequence of coal-dust getting into the machinery, and water was pumped upon it for some time.

On the morning of the 1 7th we were off Negropont. It was a most beautiful day, the sea quite calm, and we had a fine view of this mountainous island ; and as, during the day, we progressed through the Archipelago, we were much struck with the beauty and grandeur of the magnificent scenery, which was much enhanced by the mountains on the different islands being covered with snow. We could observe, however, but few habi tations and little cultivation, though numerous windmills covered the tops of some of the hills. This was the calmest day of our voyage, but it became colder as we now steered northward. We CHAP. I. 1854. April, sighted the Island of Mitylene just as the setting sun was lighting up, with a rich glow of crimson, the numerous islands, which seemed as if rising out of a sea of fire.

As we could not enter the Dardanelles after dark, we anchored between the Island of Tenedos and the mainland. Soon after dawn on the 18th we passed the snugly situated town of Tenedos and Besika Bay, and entered the fortified mouth of the Dardanelles. The shore on each side was flat and uninteresting, except where a village gave signs of cultivation, or a fort, bristling with guns, frowned upon us. We saw Turkish troops in the various batteries, and met numerous small vessels, the crews loudly cheering us : even the Turks shouted out " Hurrah !" The morning was very calm and cloudless, and the clear day enabled us to see the distant mountains of Asia, all covered with snow. After a delightful steam of three hours we reached Gallipoli, a miserable-looking place, near which several British regiments — under the command of General Sir George Brown — were encamped, and also about 22,000 of the French Army.

We were told that when the latter disembarked here, they had boats in abundance, as well as mules and waggons ready for them ; whereas some of our regiments could not disembark for want of boats, neither could they obtain mules nor waggons for the transport of baggage, &c. The vessel was soon surrounded by boats from shore, but none of us were allowed to land, of course ; fancy one of our men — in the generosity of his heart — offering a piece of CONNAUGHT RANGERS. 11 CHAP, I 1554. April pork to a Tttrk who came on board ! We received the order to proceed to Scutari with three hearty cheers, and left Gallipoli at two p.m. Just as we were getting under way, a Turk alongside managed to get his boat under one of the paddle-wheels ; we thought he must have been drowned, when, much to our surprise, he appeared out of the top of the paddle-box, wet and frightened, having scrambled up the wheel.

Lieutenant James Burke, R.E.* (brother of one of our officers, Lieutenant J. Burke), came on board here, and accompanied us to Scutari. Off Gallipoli were twelve French men-of-war, among them the Napoleon. The narrowest part of the Dardanelles is about a mile wide, with a fort on each side, afleur d'eati. Early on the morning of the 19th we arrived at Constantinople, after a delightful passage of fourteen days from Liverpool. We were very fortunate in having such an excellent commander as Captain Leitch, who did everything he could to make the voyage comfortable, both to officers and men ; we afterwards presented him with a piece of plate, as a mark of esteem.t About two p.m. we landed at Scutari, and were quartered — with the 33rd, 41st, 47th, 49th, and 77th — in the Turkish barracks, which were situated on a hill * Killed at Rustchuk, July 9th, 1854. t One considerate act on the part of Captain Leitch deserves to be recorded.