The Annals of San Francisco; containing a summary of the history, the first discovery, settlement, progress and present condition of California, and a complete history of ... its great city: to which are added, biographical memoirs of some prominent citizens. By F. Soule, John H. Gihon, and...

Front matter

THE ANNALS OF SAN FRANCISCO; CONTAINING A SUMMARY OF THE HISTORY OF THE FIRST DISCOVERY, SETTLEMENT, PROGRESS, AND PR5EBENT CONDITION OF CALIFORNIA, AND A COMPLETE HISTORY OF ALL THE IMPORTANT EVENTS CONNECTED WITH ITS GREAT CITY: TO WHICH ARE ADDED, BIOGRAPHICAL MEMOIRS OF SOME PROMINENT CITIZENS. BY FRANK SOULE, JOHN H. GIHON, M. D., AND JAMES NISBET. ILLUSTRATED WITH ONE HUNDRED AND FIFTY FINE ENGRAVINGS. " Go to, let us build us a city, and a tower, Whose top may reach unto heaven; And let us make us a name.'" NEW YORK: D. APPLETON & COMPANY, 346 & 348 BROADWAY. SAN FRANCISCO: MONTGOMERY STREET. LONDON : 10 LITTLE BRITAIN. M.DCCC.LT. Entet.ed, according to Act os Confess, in the year 1954, by D. APPLETON & COMPANY, In the Clerk's Office of the District Court of the United States for the Southern District of New York. TO THE "SOCIETY OF CALIFORNIA PIONEERS," THIS WORK is RESPECTFULLY DEDICATED Lev THE AUTHORS.

Preface

Were not the plan, scope and purpose of the present volume sufficiently explained in the text of the work itself, we should despair of adequately initiating the reader in these subjects in the limited space necessarily assigned to a Preface. It is not necessary to offer a reason for the ap pearance of these " Annals." To read and to know something of the history of this new Tadmor which has grown up so suddenly in the midst of what was but recently merely a desert, the centre of that vast trade whieh the golden smile of California opened at once to the world, is so natural and inevitable a desire, that it may be taken for granted, and dismissed as a foregone conclusion. The plan of the work is such as its nature seemed to require, and the style and manner of treatment must rest for approval and criticism with the Priblie, for whom it was written and to whom it is now submitted.

To avoid the necessity of frequent references in the body of the work to authorities, and to those who have generously extended to the authors facilities for its production, the Preface has been selected as the most fitting place for expressing our obligations. For unrestricted access to the " Californian," the " California Star," and the " Alta California " newspaper files, we are indebted to the courtesy of Mr. Edward Conner, one of the proprietors of the last named journal. Much valuable statis tical and other information has been derived from the " San Francisco Herald," full files of which were kindly placed at our disposal by its editor and proprietor, Mr. John Nugent. The " California Chronicle," from its commencement to the date of publication of this volume, was also placed by the proprietors at our service. We are likewise indebted

PREFACE.

. to Messrs. T. J. Nevins and Wm. H. O'Grady for information respect ing the public schools ; to Mr. J. L. Van Bokkelin, for important facts concerning the fire department; to Mr. A. G. Randall, for particulars in regard to military organizations ; to Rev's T. Dwight Hunt, Albert Wil liams, J. L. Ver Mehr, S. H. Willey and 0. C. Wheeler, for matter relating to the early state of religion and churches in San Francisco ; to Messrs. Thomas 0. Larkin, William A. Richardson, Jacob P. Leese, Jacob R. Snyder, James Caldwell Low, Hiram Pierson, J. D. Steven son, Samuel Brannan, R. H. Perry, David Jobson, Samuel J. Bayard, Nathaniel Gray and James King of William, for much useful and inter esting information regarding the early and present history of the city ; to Mr. J. M. Ford, daguerreian artist, for gratuitous services in taking portraits of many of the gentlemen whose memoirs are given ; and to our citizens generally who have freely responded to our call for informa tion, whenever they have been appealed to for that purpose.

Many biographical sketches designed for this work have been omitted for want of room, the volume having extended to nearly double the size originally intended and promised. These, however, with other interesting matters connected with the progress of San Francisco, and a history of all the important cities and towns of California, will be published at an early day, in another volume, a great portion of the material for which is al ready prepared. The necessity of condensing within the reasonable space of a single volume, the history of a city which has occupied for the five or six years of its existence so much of the attention of the world, and the unavoidable collateral history of California, has prevented, to some extent, a natural impulse and inclination to indulge more at length in many inter esting details.

But it is believed that the gist of the whole matter is embraced in the history as written, and that no important event has been omitted, which would have been of interest to the general reader. CONTENTS

Part I. Chapter

I.— Proposed treatment of the work.— Etymology of the name California.— Lower or Old California.— Grixalva and Mendoza.— First discovery.— Expeditions of Cortez.— Cabrillu.— Ferrelo.— Drake.— -Drake's description of the natives.— Bodega and San Francisco Bays.— Sir Francis Drake's Bay.— Captain Thomas Cavendish.— Captain "Woodes Rogers.— His description of the natives. — The English buccaneering expeditions along the west coasts of the Americas.— Political reasons why the Spanish Government strenuously prosecuted the discovery and settlement of California. p. 21

Chapter II

— Expeditions of Viscaino.— Admiral Otondo and Father Kino.— First settlement, and introduction of the priest rule in the Californias. — Failure and withdrawal of the first missions. —Renewed attempts to make settlements.— Father Salva-Tierra and his coadjutors.— Final establishment of the Jesuits in the country. — Geographical discoveries of Father Kino. — Jesuits expelled and superseded by Franciscan Friars ; these, in turn, by tbe Dominican Monks. — Population and physical character of Old or Lower California 38

Chapter III

— First settlement of New or Upper California by Franciscan Monks. — Supposed earliest discovery of San Francisco Bay. — Origin of the name — Establishment of a Mission and Presidio there, and ceremonies on the occasion.— Gradual establishment of Missions and Presidios over the country. — List of these, and population of some at various dates. — The gente de razon and the bestias, or the rational creatures and beasts of the country.— Causes why free white settlers few in number.— Character of the natives as given by Venegas, and other writers.— Progress and apparent destiny of the Anglo-Saxons on the Pacific 45

Chapter IV

— Conduct of the Fathers towards the natives.— Their mode of instructing, employing and subsisting the converts. — The Fathers do not appear to have promoted the true welfare of the aborigines, or done any good to humanity.— Pictures, if gaudily colored and horrible in subject, great aids to conversion. — Missions and population of the country at recent dates.— Table on this subject — Tables of the farm produce and domestic cattle of the country. — Table ot prices 56

Chapter V

— Pious Fund of California.— General description of the Missions. — Patriarchal kind of life of the Fathers.— Reflections on the subject— General description of the Presidios, Castillo*, and their garrisons, aud of the free Pueblos and Ranchios 67

Chapter VI

— Independence of Mexico in 1822, and gradual changes in the character and constitution of the Missions. — Manumission of the Indians in 1S26 ; but plan found unworkable, and return to the old state of things. — Gradual disappearance of the Pious Fund. — Increasing riches of the Fathers. — Changes of 1833 and i834 in the Missions, and attempts by the Mexican Congress to secularize their property. — Santa Anna.— Attempted Centralization of the Mexican Government. — Overthruw of the old Federal Constitution in 1836. — Revolt and Declaration of Indepen dence of the Californian?. — Continual sinking of the Fathers, and final fall of the Missions in 1845. — Indian converts sent adrift, and Mission property sold or rented.— Cost of the support of the Missions to the Spanish and Mexican Governments CONTENTS.

Chapter VII

— California distinct in physical character and national seeling from the other Mexican provinces.— Beginning and progress of immigration into the country.— The Eussians at Bodega Bay.-Later great increase of foreign white settlers ; Americans largely preponderating. — Ontrage committed upon the settlers by Mexican authorities.— Commodore Jones takes possession of Monterey.— Foreign settlers scatter themselves over the whole country, and silently. but rapidly, revolutionize or Americanize it— Origin of the war of 1846 between the Mexican and American States

Chapter VIII

— Col. John C. Fremont— General Jose Castro.— Fremont declares war against California.-Capturc of Sonoma.-Proclamation of William B. Ide.— Letter of Pio Pico, Governor of the Californian to Thomas O. Larkin, Consul of the United States.— Thomas 0. Larkins reply to Pio Pico.— California declared independent— California desired by the American Government. —Col. Stevenson's regiment— Movements of General Kearny.— Seizure of Monterey.— Proclamation of Com. Sloat— Commander Montgomery takes possession of Terba Buena and Fremont of San Juan 90

Chapter IX

— Commodore Stockton takes charge of the American forces in California.— Hostility of the Californians — Proclamation of Com. Stockton.— Landing at San Pedro, and manœuvres of the sailor army.— Castro's commissioners.— March on Los Angeles, and flight of General Castro.— Triumphant entry into Los Angeles.— Provisional government formed.— The difficulties of Stockton's march, and the complete success of his plans. — P.eported hostility of the Walla- Walla Indians. — Enthusiastic reception of Stockton at San Francisco and other places. — Satisfaction of the peoplo of California with the new government— Stockton designs to cross Mexico and unite with the forces of General Taylor 101

Chapter X

— Insurrection of the Californians. — Proclamation of General Flores. — Defeat and surrender of Talbot and Gillespie.— Captain Mervine defeated, with the crew of the Savannah. — Com. Stockton defeats the Californians at San Diego.— Defeat of General Kearny at San Pasqual. — The official relations of Com. Stockton and Gen. Kearny. — Movement against Los Angeles. — Battles of the Rio San Gabriel, and the Plains of the Mesa. — Fremont negotiates with General Flores and Andreas Pico. — Fremont appointed Governor, and subsequently tried by Court Martial. — Arrival of Commodore Shubrick, and the confirmation of General Kearny as Governor. — Mexican Governors of California, — Foreign Consuls in the Territory 113 CHAPTER SI. — Peace concluded between the Mexican and American States. — Terms of the Treaty. — California ceded to the United States. — The country ruled provisionally by American Governors. — Rapid increase of population by immigration. — Discovery of gold on the American River by Mr. James W. Marshall. — Great excitement in consequence of the discovery, and rush of people to the gold placers. — Mixed character of the population. — Necessity for the establishment of a proper form of Government. — Independent sectional legislation inadequate and unsatisfactory. — Meetings held to effect a general civil organization. — General Riley issues a proclamation for a meeting to be held at Monterey to adopt a State Constitution. — Names of delegates appointed. —Meeting at Monterey.— Constitution of California adopted, and Tejoicings on the occasion . . 128

Chapter XII

— Geographicallimits of Upper California.— General description of the country.— Two great divisions of the northern part of the State.— Fertility of the soil.— Peculiarities of the climate.— Two seasons : wet and dry.— Products of the country.— Fogs and winds on the coast — The harbors.— Country west of the Sierra Nevada.— The Sacramento and San Joaqnin rivers, and their valleys. — This region of country abounds in timber. — Excessive heat in the dry season.— Localities of the chief gold placers.— Immense size of trees.— Silver, lead, copper and coal mines.— Advantages to the immigrant -*4Ct

Part II. Chapter

I.— Description of the Golden Gate.— Origin of the name.— The Bays of San Francisco, San Pablo, and Suisun.-Rivers emptying into Suisun Bay.— Description of the adjacent country.— Indian tradition.— Remarkable fertility of the soil.— Farm produce and mode of farming.— Location of the City of San Francisco— The name Terba Buena— The first house built— Disadvantages of the locality.— No provision made for desirable public squares or parks 1 v.l CONTENTS. 9

CHAPTER II.

— The Mission and Presidio of San Francisco.— Formation and survey of the village of Terba Buena.— disputes and litigation in regard to Terba Buena being a Pueblo.— Captain Richardson the first Harbor Master.— Visits of national and other vessels to Terba Buena Cove. —Reasons why the whale ships ceased to enter the harbor for supplies.— Traffic between Terba Buena and foreign ports.— Hides and tallow tho chief exports.— Prices obtained for these.— Heavy rains and their effects.— Earthquakes.— Unusual drought.— Mr. Jacob P. Leese establishes himself at Terba Buena.— Celebration of the Fourth of July at Leese's house.— First child born. — Limits of the original survey 162

CHAPTER III.

— Removal of the Hudson's Bay Company. — Rapid growth and increase of population of Terba Buena. — First newspapers established in California — Tables showing the number of inhabitants in 1S47, with their places of birth, ages, sexes and occupations. — Ordinance of the alcalde changing the name of Terba Buena to San Francisco.— "VV. A. Bartlett was the first alcalde under the American flag, who was succeeded by George Hyde, and he by Edwin Bn ant —Powers of an alcalde. — Great sale of beach and water lots, agreeably to a decree of General Kearny. — Price of grants of property, and subsequent increased value of city lots, — "Width of the streets. — Municipal regulation restricting purchasers 17S

CHAPTER IV.

— Captain Montgomery hoists the American flag on Portsmouth Square. — Arrival of the ship Brooklyn from New Vork, with a large company of Mormon and other immigrants. — Disputes among her passengers, leading to the first jury trial in San Francisco. — Grand ball at the residence of Wm. A. Leidesdorff. — Nautical fete given by Capt. Simmons. — Public reception of Com. Stockton. — Attempts to establish a public school. — Name of town changed to San Francisco. — Number of buildings and inhabitants. — Sutfering immigrants in the Sierra Nevada, — Trustees of the proposed school chosen. — Delegates to represent the District of San Francisco in the new legislative council. — Arrival of Col. Stevenson and New York Volunteers. — Vessels in the harbor, 13th March, 1S47. — " The California Star " adopts the name of San Francisco. — Mails established between San Francisco and San Diego. — Proposed erectiun of a church. — Grand illumination in honor of Gen. Taylor's victory at Buena Vista. — Celebrations of Anniversaries. — Public meeting to consider the claims of Col. Fremont to the office of Governor of the Territory. — Sale of beach and water lots. — Election of the first town council. — The first public school. — Gales in San Francisco Bay. — The first steamboat. — Thanksgiving Day. — Commercial Statistics 1S5

CHAPTER V.

— Resolutions concerning gambling. — Public sale of City Property.— Price Current published. — Condition and population of the town. — Overland express to Independence, Mo. — George Hyde, alcalde, resigned, and succeeded by Dr. J. Townsend. — Death of Wm. A. Leidesdorff.— Discovery of gold, and immediate effects. — Illumination in celebration of the peace between Mexico and the United States. — Dr. T. M. Leavenworth elected alcalde. — First brick house. — Public meeting to regulate the price of gold dust — First square-rigged vessel discharged) at Broadway wharf — Judicial limits of the town. — Rev. T. D. Hunt chosen chaplain. — First issue of the "Star and Californian." — State of the markets. — Public meeting to organize a Provisional Government. — New town council elected. — Election declared invalid. — Duties collected at the Cnstom-Honse 1 99

CHAPTER VI.

— General Effects of the Gold Discoveries 209

CHAPTER VII.

— The Alta California newspaper established.— Delegates elected to the proposed convention to be held at San Jose.— New town council elected.— Three town councils at one time. — Meeting of the convention to frame a civil government postponed.— Public meeting respecting the conflicting councils. — Public meeting concerning negro slavery. — Town councils resigned, and legislative assembly chosen. — Arrival of the steamship California. — Address of delegates to civil government convention. — Arrival of steamship Oregon, and Col. John TV. Geary with the first United States mails. — General Riley announced territorial governor. — Acts of the legislative assembly and of the governor. — Meetings concerning municipal and State governments. — Growth, population and general prosperity of the city. — Gambling and other vices and crimes 218

CHAPTER VIII.

— The Hounds. — Election of Supreme Judge, delegates to convention and municipal officers.— Alcalde's address to the Ay untamien to.— Duties of prefects.— The prison brig Euphemia and store-ship Apollo. — Churches. — Regulations and appointments of the Ayunta- CONTENTS. miento.— The " Pacific News" commenced.— Meeting of the Constitution Convention at Monterey. - Merchants1 Exchange. — Steam Navigation. — Death of Nathan Spear. — First democratic meeting.— Circus opened.— Constitution approved and State officers elected.— First habitation on Eincon Point— Thanksgiving Day.— Judge Almond's court.— The " Alta California.1'— First great fire

CHAPTER IX.

— Increase of population— No proper homes.— Character of the houses.— Condition of the streets.— Employments of the people.— Every thing in apparent confusion ; still nobody idle, and much business accomplished.— How the inhabitants lived.— Money rapidly made and freely spent— Gambling.— Shipping deserted.— Extravagantly high prices obtained for every thing.— Rents and wages.— The mines the source of all the wealth.— Destitution, sickness and death.— Increase of crime —Aspect of the Plaza.— Mixed character of the inhabitants.— The Post-office.— A pleasant prospect 2^3

CHAPTER X.

— Great sale of water lots.— An election day— Newspapers.— Approval by the aynntamiento of the City Charter, and limits of San Francisco.— Squatter difficulty at Rincon Point- Political meeting on Portsmouth Square.— The Colton grants.— First county election. — Col. John C. Hayes elected Sheriff.— City Charter adopted by the State Legislature.— First election under the City Charter.— Changes in the Common Council 264

CHAPTER XI.

— Third great fire. — Aldermen's salaries. — Indignation meetings.— Veto message of the mayor.— Shipping in San Francisco Bay.— Celebration of the Fourth of July.— The Oregon Liberty Pole.— Custom-house at the corner of California and Montgomery streets.— Departure from California of General Riley.— Society of California Pioneers. — Squatter riots at Sacrament". — Suffering immigrants. — Presentation of Chinese Books. — Funeral ceremonies on occasion of the death of President Taylor.— A Chinese document 277

CHAPTER XII.

— The first City Directory published.— Monetary crisis.— Fourth great fire. — Death of Captnin Bezer Simmons. — The wharves. — Celebration on account of the admission of California into the Union of American States. — Explosion of the steamer Sagamore. — City Hospital burned. —Improvements in the city. — Plank road to the Mission Dolores. — Death of the mayor of Sacramento. — Thanksgiving Day. — Fire in Sacramento-street 289

Chapter XIII

— Population in 1850.— City improvements.— Grading and planking streets.— Wharves, steamers, manufactures. — Supply and demand for goods. — Mines yielding abundantly. —Expresses established.— Moral progress.— Better state of things. — Cholera,— California admitted to the Union. — City Charter granted. — First Common Council. — The gold medals for Aldermen. — Corruption of officials. — Colton Grants. — Lcidesdorff Estate. — City finances. — Outrages and fires. — The prisons and police. — Lynch Law agitated 800

Chapter XIV

— The Gold Bluffs and Pacific Mining Company.— The excitement at the City Hall in February, 1S51.— Attempt to Lynch Burdue and Windred. — Their subsequent escape.— Burning of the steamers Hartford and Santa Clara. 31 1

Chapter XV

— Jndge Parsons and the case of William Walker for contempt of Court— Act ol Legislature ceding Beach and Water Lots to the City of San Francisco. — Act to re -in corporate the city. — New city limits.— First election of municipal officers under revised charter.— Act passed to fund the State debt— Act to establish State Marine Hospital. —Act to fund the rtoatim; debt— Indebtedness of the city. — Municipal officers trafficking in city scrip.— Fifth <rreatfire. 322

Chapter XVI

— T. Butler King removing the custom-house deposits.— Frank Ball's song, and custom-house appointment. —Dr. Robinson's rhymes. — Incendiarism. — The case of Lewis. charged with arson.— The facilities with which criminals escaped from punishment— The Vigilance Committee.— Contracts of Mr. Merrifield and the Mountain Water Lake Company to supply the city with water oo.

Chapter XVII

— The sixth great fire.— Destruction of old buildings.— Execution by the Vigilance Committee of Stuart, Whittaker and McKenzie.— County and city elections.— The Vigilance Committee suspend operations.— Wells & Co. suspend paym en t— Opening of the Jenny Lind Theatre.— The American Theatre opened.— Shipping in San Francisco Bay.— Ball of the Monumental Fire Company.— Indian disturbances and volunteer military companies -Severe storm „ .. , CONTENTS. 11

Chapter XVIII

— Immigration diminished.— Females comparatively few.— Great city improvements.— Productions of the country, game, &c, in the markets.— Character of the community changing for the better.— The circulating medium,— Extravagance in living, dress, &c— Personal rencontres and other outrages common.— Titles to real estate uncertain.— Legal decisions. — Depreciated value of merchandise.— Amusements, dissipation and recreation.— The foreign population. -Great crimes less frequent.— The finances of the city 357

Chapter XIX

— Dr. Peter Smith.— His contract with the city to take charge of the indigent sick. —The city's indebtedness.— Smith's judgments and executions.— Injunctions of the commissioners of the funded debt— Sale and sacrifice of the city property under Smith's judgments. . . 870

Chapter XX

— The Chinese in California.— Act passed to fund the floating debt of the State. — The State Marine Hospital. — Act to convert into a seven per cent, stock the floating debt of the County of San Francisco.— Anniversary of fires.— Meetings of the Vigilance Committee. 378

Chapter XXI

— Clipper Ships.— Enormous Taxation.— Purchase of the Jenny Lind Theatre by the Common Council. — Times and Transcript removes to San Francisco. — Fourth of July celebration.— Great scarcity of printing paper.— Duel between Hon. Edward Gilbert and General Denver. — Custom of Duelling. — Funeral ceremonies on occasion of the death of Henry Clay. 391

Chapter XXII

— Australian gold mines.— Restlessness of miners.— Many who emigrated to Australia return to California. — Superior advantages of the latter place. — Second city directory published. — California Telegraph Company. — General election. — Fire in Sacramento City.— Another fire in San Francisco. — Intelligence received of the death of Daniel Webster.— -Falling of the waters of Lake La Mercede. — Another city directory. — Firemen's election. — Legal execution of Jose Forni. — Destructive storm 402

Chapter XXIII

— Increase of population.— Mixed character of the immigrants.— Chinese, Peruvians, Chilenos, and other foreigners, notoriously vicious. — Sufferings of the overland immigrants. — Greater attention paid to agricultural pursuits. — City improvements still progressing. — Great fires no longor possible. — Fire insurance agencies established. — Manufactories. — New gold discoveries. — Emigration to Australia. — Merchandise and provisions commanding high prices. — The clipper ships. — Filthy condition of the streets. — Great abundance of rats. — The city extension, bay, and shipping. — The strong winds preventive of disease. — Peculations of officials — San Francisco only suitable for the industrious. — The city growing in importance. — Change of inhabitants. — Fascinations of San Francisco life. — Reflections concerning the moral condition of the city 411

Chapter XXIV

— Commerce. — Mercantile Library Association. — The Limantour claim. — Election of delegates to revise the City Charter. — Third annual celebration of the organization of the Fire Department— Steamships lost — Extension of the city waterfront — United States Marino Hospital 427

Chapter XXV

— Russ's garden.— The German population.— May-day celebration by school-children — Burning of the Rassette House. — Mountain Lake Water Company.— General State Hospital. — Drinking houses, — Clipper ships and short passages. — Military parade and celebration of 4th of July.— Dedication of the First Congregational Church.— St. Mary's (Catholic) Church.— Unitarian Church. — Seamen's Bethel. — Squatter difficulties. — Store-ships burned. — Strikes by mechanics and laborers for higher wages. — Anniversary of the German Turnverein. — City and county election. — Lafayette Hook and Ladder Company organized. — The French inhabitants.— Sweeney & Baugh's electric telegraph 445

Chapter XXVI

— Important legal decision of the Supreme Court confirming Alcaldes' grants.— Burning of the St. Francis Hotel.— Opening of the telegraph communication to Marysville.— Lone _ Mountain Cemetery. — Anniversary of the day of St. Francis. — The Mission Dolores. — The Spanish races in California. — The Custom- House Block. — The steamship Winfield Scott wrecked. — Election of officers of the Fire Department. — The Sonorian Filibusters. — Opening of the Metropolitan Theatre.— Great sales of water lots.— Montgomery block 467

Chapter XXVII

— Numbers and description of the population of the State. — Amount of gold produced from California mines.— San Francisco as related to California,— Population of San Francisco. — City improvements. —Commercial statistics . . CONTENTS.

Chapter XXVIII

— Prosperity of San Francisco. —Business activity.— Fortunes rapidly made.— Disputes concerning titles to real estate.— Real property commanding extravagantly high prices. —Social, moral and intellectual characteristics.— Gambling.— Vice less concealed in San Francisco than in other cities,— The female population.— Expenses of housekeeping.— Foreign population. —The marvollous progress of the city during the past few years 497

Chapter XXIX

— Meeting of citizens regarding the State Revenue Act— Run on Adams & Co. —Banking and banking-houses.— The Express Building.— Weather unusually cold.— Effects of the weather upon the interests of the country.— Le Count & Strong's Directory for 1854.— Loss of the olippor ship San Francisco.— The city lighted with gas.— Riot at the Mercantile Hotel 510

Chapter XXX

— Commercial depression.— Decrease in the value of real estate and merchandise. —Combination of the steamboat owners.— Rates of freight and passage on river steamers.— Duels and duelling.— Sale of "government reserve" town lots.— Celebration of St Patrick's day. —Conviction of filibusters.— Opening of the San Francisco branch mint— The Pacific railroad. — Falling of the U. S. bondedwarehouse.— Explosion of the boiler of the steamboat "Secretary." — Arrival of Chinese immigrants.— Quick passage of the clipper ship "Flying Cloud.*' — Wreck of the " Golden Fleece " 519

Chapter XXXI

— Trial of the Mexican consul.— Arrest of the French consul.— Chinese newspaper established. — German May-feast at Russ's Garden. — The Hoadley street grades. — Indictment by the Grand Jury of Sonora filibusters. — Dedication of the Lone Mountain Cemetery.— Extensive Conflagration.— Report of the funded debt commissioners.— Squatter difficulties. — Sale of public property. — Captain Adams arrived with the Japan treaty. — Alderman elected 531

Chapter XXXII

—Commercial depression.— Reduction of prices of merchandise and real estate. — Fall in rents. — Improved character of the buildings. — The plaza being improved. — Government fortifications of the harbor commenced. — Immigration and emigration. — The population. — Tield of the gold mines. — Labor profitable in California. — The quicksilver mines. — Agricultural resources. — Fisheries. — Telegraphs and railroads. — Ship-building. — Foreign relations. — Ice and coal trade. — Mail steamers between San Francisco and Shanghae. — The international railway. — San Francisco water front extension. — The proposed new city charter. — Claim of the city to Pueblo lands.— Increase of sources of domestic comfort.— Immoralities continue to prevail.— Duel and duelling. — Theatrical entertainments.— Daily newspapers.— Means of moral and educational improvement 543 PART in.

Toe Hounds 555 The Vigilance Committee 562 Deaths and Burials 5g$ The Great Fires 599 The Fire Department 614 Steamer-Day 626 Hotels, Restaurants and Boarding- Houses 639 Publio Amusements 653 Some Phases of San Francisco " Life " 665 Public Schools _ gj5 Churohes and Religion \ ggj Independent Military Organizations 702 Social and Benevolent Institutions tqq Memoir of John W. Geary •*•*-■. ? " Charles J. Brenham tor " Stephen R. Harris, M. D jaq " 0. K. Garrison " Samuel Brannan -**,,*--•. 748 Joseph L. Folsom -«. " Thomas 0. Larkin " --„ CONTENTS. Memoir or John A. Suttee 765 " Mariano de Guadalupe Vallejo . * 769 " Edward Gilbert , *. 775 " William D. M. Howard 779 " Joseph F. Atwill 781 " Jonathan D. Stevenson 784 " William M. Gwin 790 " Selim E. Woodworth 794 " Theodore Payne 799

Appendix

. Great Seal of the State of California 805 Constitution of the State of California 806 Act of Corporation of the City of San Francisco 816 Members of the Society of California Pioneers Customhouse, now (1354) being erected on Battery street ILLUSTRATIONS. PAGE 1. — Bartlett's General Map, showing the countries explored by the United States and Mexican Boundary Commission .... 2. — Montgomery street, San Francisco, north, from California street, Frontispiece. '.',. — Custom-house, being erected on Battery street, San Francisco . 14 4. — Seal of the Society of California Pioneers . . . .19 5. — Map of the City of San Francisco ..... 20 tj. — Portrait of Sir Francis Drake . . . . . .27 7. — Sir Francis Drake and California Indians ... 29 8. — Sir Francis Drake's Bay, or Jack's Harbor . . . .32 9. — Landing of Captain Woodes Rogers, in Upper California . . 35 10. — View of the country in the interior of California . . .39 11. — Spanish Ship of Seventeenth Century, and Coast of California 42 12. — Mission Dolores, or Mission of San Francisco . 48 13. — California Indians ...... 52 14 — Indians under Instruction . ■ .57 15. — Father Garzes and California Indians . .

ILLUSTRATIONS. 15 PAGE 16. — Mission of Santa Barbara ... . 65 17. — Mission of San Carlos .... 69 18. — A Mission Rancho ....... 73 19. — Portrait of Father Antonio Peyri .... 76 20. — Sutter's Fort, or New Helvetia . ... 85 21. — Portrait of Colonel John C. Fremont .... 91 22. — Portrait of Thomas 0.