Ceylon and the Cingalese; their history, government and religion: the antiquities, institutions, produce, revenue and capabilities of the Island: with anecdotes illustrating the manners and customs of the people

Front matter

CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE. It is a goodly sight to see What Heaven hath done for this delicious land ! What fruits of fragrance blush on every tree ! What goodly prospects o'er the hills expand !" Byron. COLOMBO CEYLON AND THE CINGALESE ; THEIR HISTORY, GOVERNMENT, AND RELIGION. THE ANTIQUITIES, INSTITUTIONS, PRODUCE, REVENUE, AND CAPABILITIES OF THE ISLAND; WITH ANECDOTES ILLUSTRATING THE MANNERS AND CsSTOlIS OF THE PEOPLE. BY HENRY CHARLES SIRR, M.A., OF LINCOLN'S INN, B AB R I S T E E-A T-L A W, AND LATE DEPUTY QUEEN'S ADVOCATE FOR THE SOUTHERN CIRCUIT IN THE ISLAND OF CEYLON. VOL. I. LONDON: WILLIAM SHOBERL, PUBLISHER, 20, GREAT MARLBOROUGH STREET. 1850. fEntcrctt at J^tattonrnS' ffiall. LONDON : PRINTED BY G. S. PALMER, SAVOY STREET, STRAND. ro THE MOST NOBLE AND RIGHT HONORABLE JAMES BROWNLOW WILLIAM GASCOIGNE CECIL, MARQUIS OF SALISBURY, K.G , D.C.L., LORD LIEUTENANT OF THE COUNTY OF MIDDLESEX, &c. &c. &c. CIjiS ffiJSarfc ii, i>j) permission, rcgjiectfuIlB Jictltrateli, BY HIS LORDSHIP'S MOST OBEDIENT, HUMBLE SERVANT, THE AUTHOR.

Preface

. From the extraordinary interest created by recent events in Ceylon, and the desire for information evinced by all classes upon the subject of the late Rebellion, we have been induced to prepare the following pages for the press, some portion of which appeared in a leading periodical shortly after our return from the Colony. Our object has been to unfold the capabilities of this beautiful island, and call attention to its undeveloped resources : amongst the former may be classed the proposed emigration to Newera- Ellia, and amongst the latter the long talked of, and essential undertaking — the restoration of the ancient tanks — the whole credit of which last named proposition, a recent writer, who has never visited the Colony, has most unjustly claimed for himself, although the greater number of, if not all,

PREFACE.

. authors who have sojourned in the "Cinnamon Isle" have referred to the subject. In the performance of our task, we have endeavoured to notice, and believe that we have con sidered, every topic of interest, described the general features of the country, its glorious an tiquities and literature, and illustrated the cha racter and habits of its mixed population. As a book of reference, we have essayed to render these pages useful, by the classification of chapters, each devoted to a particular subject. The ancient history of Lanka-diva has been glanced at, and its modern, or that portion thereof which is connected with European rule, has been fully entered into, and, being brought down to the present period, it includes a complete account OF THE LATE KANDIAN REBELLION, ITS ORIGIN, and consequences, together with an expose of the supposed grievances of our fellow-subjects, and the critical position of the colonial govern ment.

We have also ventured, from personal observation and facts, to show the inefficiency of death, as a punishment, or example, amongst a population professing the tenets of Buddhism. April, 1850. 1, New Square, Lincoln's Inn. i.\ CONTENTS OP THE FIRST VOLUME.

Chapter I

Point de Galle — Beauty of the scenery and harbour — Canoes — Arrival of steamer — Scene on board — Native traders — Touters to the lodging-houses — Custom House — Grotesque ajipearance of Chitty Man — Description of the fort — Guard-house — Queen's house — Dwellings — Moormen — Pettah — Paying for your complexion. ..... Page 1

Chapter II

Going to call the coach, instead of the coach calling for you — Preparations for Departure — Description of the Royal Mails in Ceylon — The Colombo road — Wild Peacock — Guano — Monkeys — Toddy drawers — Bentotte — Restive horses — Anecdote — Caltura — Beauty of scenery — Cinnamon plantations — Pagoda tree — The fashionable quarter of Colombo — Colpetty — The Galle Face — Curious gazers at new comers — Arrival of the Royal Mail, gives CONTENTS. X rise to conjectures as to who the newcomers are, and wherefore they have come to Ceylon. . .19

Chapter III

Colombo — Harbour — Custom-house — Animated scene — Derivation of the name of the Port — Fortifications — Troops — Queen's House — Pubhc offices in the Fort — Pettah — Native traders — Churches, chapels, religious and charitable institutions — Public offices in the Pettah — Native police — Slave Island— Galle Face — Colonial manners — The effect of climate upon the female character — The fashionable drive — Beauty of the spiot — Sunset — Sea-breezes — Evening — Fire-flies — Cinnamon — Tribute demanded by the Portuguese — Cultivation introduced by the Dutch — Value of the monopoly to the Dutch and English governments — Description of the shrub — Uses of every portion of the cinnamon-laurel — Peeling knives— Number of crops in the year — Preparing the spice — Challiasor cinnamon peelers — Punkahs — The result of an unexpected downfall — Dessert — Crows, their boldness and audacity. . . . . . .39

Chapter IV

Situation of Kandy — Route — Bridge of boats — Paddy terraces — Aspect of the people — Ambepusse — Mountain zone — Kadaganawa pass — Mountain scenery — Talapat, or great fan palm — Animal life — Draught elephants — Peredenia — Bridge and Botanical gardens — Curious specimens of the vegetable kingdom — Travellers' friend — City of Kandy — Artificial lake — Bathing house of the Queen's — Palace — Native shops — Customs — Buildings — Artillery-barracks — Deficiency of water — The governor's CONTENTS. XI residence — Beauty of the architecture and site — Views of the valley of Doombera — Major Davie's tree — Grounds of the Pavilion — Lady Horton's road — Grandeur of sce nery — Altitude of the mountains — Military station on One-tree hill — Legend — Kurunaigalla tunnel — Compul sory labour — Animals, birds, and reptiles, in the sur rounding country. . . . . .72

Chapter V

Route to Trincomalee — Native suspension bridge — Caves of Dambool — Remains of tanks — Difficulty of construct ing a portion of the road — Hot wells — Temperature of the waters — Beneficial application in certain diseases — Legend attached to the waters — Coast and harbour of Trincomalee — situation, latitude, longitude — Size of harbour — Fort of Trincomalee — Town — buildings — Troops — Insalubrity of the climate — Trincomalee named in ancient records — Colony of Malabars established there before 125 A.D. — Interesting religious ceremony on the promonotory in honour of Siva — Pillar to the memory of Francia van Rhede — Melancholy history — Fantastic appearance of the Quartz Rocks — Principal roads 99

Chapter VI

Newera Ellia — The sanatorium of the island — The road — Mountain conflagration — Convalescent station for the military, established 1829 — Cascades of Rambodde — Newera Ellia a royal residence in 1628 — Scenery — European aspect of the dwellings — Vegetation — The town — Public buildings — Salubrity of the climate — Farming experiments — Great capabilities and fertile soil of Newera Ellia — Proposed plan of emigration — Price of stock and CONTENTS. XII produce — Iron found on the plain — Carnage roads — Foot path to the summit of Pedro-talla galla — Horton Plains, the highest table-land in Ceylon — Luxuriant specimens of the Nepenthes distillatoria, or pitcher plant — Nelu, or honey plant. . . . . .115

Chapter VII

Geological character of the island — -Minerals — Salt lakes — Revenue arising from them — Tanks — Agricidture — Native plough — Mystic rite when the paddy is trodden out — Cultivation— Lemon grass — Value and uses of cocoanut trees — Cinnamon — Coffee — Sugar — Cotton — Tobacco — Areka nuts — Ambuprasudana, or water nut — Jack and bread-fruit trees — Indigo — Mulberry trees — Talapat palm — Mee tree — Ebony tree — Calamander tree — Red sandal and satin-wood trees — The Kabook tree — Variety of the vegetable world — The bo, or sacred tree — Capabilities of cultivation and extraordinary fertility of the soil — Expense of housekeeping — Prices of provisions at Galle and Colombo — Meat — Poultry — Fish and fisheries — Fruit — Vegetables — Servants' wages — House-rent — Same at Kandy and Newera Ellia. . . . .134

Chapter VIII

Natural history — Elephants of Ceylon spoken of by Pliny and Dionysius — Sagacity — Trained to be executioners by the kings of Kandy — Ancient mode of valuing elephants — Anecdote — Catching elephants with the atmaddoo Ornaments made from the coarse hairs of the tail— King of Kandy's personal inspection of captured elephants- Tyranny — Knox's account— Rogue-elephant — Elephantshooting— Major Rogers— His miraculous escape— Sin- CONTENTS. XIII gular death — Elephants ascend the mountains — Tusks found buried in the jungles— Elks— Deer— Walmeenya— Beauty and docility— AVild buffaloes — Bears— Cheetahs, or leopards — Kandian mode of snaring them — Distinctive peculiarity — Wild hogs— Animals found in jungle — Bats — Shrew — Anecdote of a musk-rat — Ornithological specimens — Land-leeches — Ticks — Snakes — Anaconda — Cobra capello, or the sacred naga of the Cingalese — Warning — Hair-breadth escape — Tic polonga — Legend — Ichneumon attacking a cobra — Crocodiles — Hunting — Crocodile chai-mers — Native method of catching and destroying crocodiles — Fecundity — Number of eggs — Pugnacity of the yoimg — Insect tribes — White ants — Destructive pro pensities — Their nests. .... 183

Chapter IX

Geographical position of Ceylon — Size, fertility, and produce — Mentioned by classical writers of antiquity — Hindoo and Cingalese records — Date of the submersion of the island, nearly coincides with the Mosaic — Indian conqueror, Wijeya — Aborigines — Island visited by the Romans — Cingalese ambassadors visit Rome — Account given in the sixth century by Cosmas Indicopleustes — Island first visited by the Portuguese in 1505 — Native account — Dutch in Ceylon — Wars between the Portuguese and Dutch — Affecting ltistorical anecdote — Battles — The Portuguese possessions in Ceylon obtained by the Dutch in 1658 — List of the Portuguese Governors. . 218

Chapter X

Historical account continued from 1659 to 1795, when the CONTENTS. XIV Dutch surrendered, by capitulation, their possessions in Ceylon to the British— List of Dutch Governors—Sum mary of the effect of Portuguese and Dutch rule upon the Cingalese character — Philalethe's account of the same. ...... 254

Chapter XI

Kandian character — Personal appearance — Cingalese ofthe lowlands — Character of the women — Native government — King's officers — Customs — Mode of smelting iron — British rule from 1795 to 1805 — Governor North — First English governor— Supreme Court of Judicature established — Kandian war — Fearful massacre of British troops — Dastardly and disgraceful conduct of Major Davie — Extraordinary escape of two soldiers — Summary of political events — False policy of General Macdowall — Noble conduct of Captain Nouradeen — Bravery of Major Johnson — Sir Thomas Maitland succeeds the Honourable Frederick North — The judicious rule of Governor North. . . . . .277

Chapter XII

From 1805 to 1844 — Sri Wikrama' s tyranny — First Adikar family murdered — Affecting account of the execution — Heroic conduct of the wife and son — Babe taken from the mother's breast to be decapitated — Rebellion in Kandy — Martial law proclaimed — Tranquillity restored — Dalada relic — Death ofthe King of Kandy — Governor Sir Colin Campbell — His policy — Bishopric of Colombo constituted — The first Bishop Dr. Chapman — His exertions and character — Rebellion in Kandy — The Priests' causes of dissatisfaction — New taxes and first disturbance — Pre- CONTENTS. XV tender proclaimed — His progress — Rebels enter and destroy the public buildings at Matele — Troops march from Kandy — Conflict with rebels — Martial law proclaimed — Reward offered for Pretender — Destruction of Kurnegalle — Observer newspaper exciting discontent — Alarming meeting of natives near the seat of Government — Attack of the police — Mr. Elliot addresses the mob — Reinforce ments sent to Kandy — The Commandant takes possession of tlie Dalada relic — Pretender's brother shot— Result of Courts Martial — Special sessions of Supreme Court — The Chief Justice's charge — His recommendation to mercy — Lord Torrington's reply. . . . .

ILLUSTRATIONS. VOLUME I. View of Colombo . . . Frontispiece Map of the Island of Ceylon . . Page I ChittyMan . . . . .11 Cingalese Man .... 279 Cingalese Woman .... 282 Ratramahatmeer .... 284 VOLUME II. The Lake of Kandy . . . Frontispiece Kandian Woman . . . .35 Cingalese Pins, or Ornaments for the Hair . 36 Buddha and Priests . . . .116 Profile of Cingalese Woman . . Fri&fc-hed by W S/wiert , £tf, GtMzrf/ioroua-A Street.

Chapter I

Point de Galle — Beauty of the scenery and harbour — Canoes — Arrival of steamer — Scene on board — Native traders — Touters to tbe lodging-houses — Custom House — Grotesque appearance of Chitty Man — Description of the fort — Guard-house — Queen's house — Dwellings — Moormen — Pettah — Paying for your complexion. Prosaic language is inadequate to convey a faithful portraiture of the exquisite sceneiy, truly oriental in its character, that abounds in the Cin namon Isle, the poet's plume, and painter's pencil, being alone calculated for the purpose. The vol. i. r, extreme fertility of the soil, and the magnificence of the vegetable kingdom, in no part of Ceylon are more perceptible than in the neighbourhood of Point de Galle, the traveller's eye dwelling with delight upon the varied, and verdant foliage which encircles the sea shore.

The pellucid azure of the cloudless skies, the sun's glittering beams reflected in millions of sparkling rays on the bosom of the blue ocean, the waves rolling and dashing in volumes of snowy surf over the dark yellow rocks, present a picture of all that is sublime and lovely in Nature. The harbour of Point de Galle lies at the southern extremity of the Island of Ceylon, being an inland bay of a semicircular or horse-shoe form, constructed by the all-bounteous hand of Nature, and is situate in lat. 6° O 59° north, and long. 80° 17' 2" lat. Skirting the harbour, are masses of rock, riven by the dashing of the surge, and worn by the hand of time into many fantastic and picturesque forms. In the back ground are cocoa-nut palms (Cocos nucifera) with their stately but slender trunks o'er-topping all the other trees, and outvieing the rest of the vegetable world in majestic graceful loveliness.

Nothing can be more elegant than the elongated green leaves, with their feathery fringe, which wave in a canopied form from the summit of the tree, droop around the slender stem, moving gently to and fro as the sea-breeze wantons among them. Clusters of nuts (or fruit) of an oval shape, measuring from seventeen to twenty inches in diameter, grow amongst the leaves close to the trunk of the tree ; and these being of a green less vivid than their brilliant colouring, contrast exquisitely with the subdued hue of the dark brown bark of the trunk. Mingled with these stately trees is the majestic bread-fruit tree (Artocarpus incisa) with its umbrageous foliage, and enormous emerald-green leaves ; from the branches are suspended the large round fruit, covered with a rough rind, gladdening alike eye and heart, with the magnificent majestic beauty of luxuriant vegetation.

Near to this tree will be seen the slender papaw tree, (Carica papaya,) the stem gradually tapering to the top, where the leaves spread forth in a parachute form, the fruit, bright yellow and melon shaped, hanging beneath them. Interspersed amongst these monarchs of vegetation are various other trees, clothed in rich foliage, but of smaller dimensions, contrasting well with those of larger growth. Imagine the waves foaming and frothing, dashing against and B Q^YLON AND THE CINGALESE. over the yellow rocks, then a billow gracefully rolling appearing to gain increased strength as it reaches the shingly beach, on which it is precipitately driven in a shower of white spray, the froth remaining for a few moments on the glis tening strand, and even as you gaze, becoming absorbed. On the undulating bosom of the swelling blue ocean sparkling with the bright rays of Sol, in all the varied prismatic tints, a few European vessels are riding at anchor, their furled sails hanging in graceful festoons from the yards.

Intermingling with these craft are the canoes of the natives, rudely constructed barks hollowed out of the trunk of a tree, with some transverse sticks for benches ; to one side of the canoe is fastened an outrigger, formed of a slender spar nearly of equal length with the vessel to which it is attached by two curved arms ; this outrigger floating upon the water, prevents the possibility of the canoe being capsized. These primitive craft vary in length from twelve to twenty feet, and in width from two to three, bring propelled by paddles three feet and a half long, roughly wrought into a battledore shape, the three or more men using them being seated at either extremity, and in the centre of the canoe. These fragile barks are usually laden with luscious fruits, vegetables, fish, or other articles of an edible nature, for the use of our ships; and the native occupants of the canoes, are men and youths of bright bronze complexion, with well-formed features, and soft black almond shaped eyes, the luxuriant long black hah of the former being twisted into a thick knot at the back of the head ; of the latter, allowed to flow " o'er their shoulders bare," a small handkerchief, scarf, or piece of cotton, tied around their loins forming their sole clothing.

Place all these in animate and animated adjuncts under cloudless skies, and a tropical sun, with the thermometer standing at ninety-six, and a faint conception may be formed of the scenery around, and har bour of Point de Galle. As soon as the steamer from England arrives, equal excitement prevails on board the vessel and on the shore, and as we wish to edify our indulgent readers "Delectando pariterque mo mendo," we will imagine the vessel to have ar rived during the night, and the captain as anxious to take in his supply of coal, and pursue his voyage, as the passengers are to touch terra firma again, after passing days or weeks without enjoying that luxury, although it may only be for a few hoars. The day has dawned, the morning gun has boomed over the waters, waken ing all slumberers, and those amongst the pas sengers who are about to make Lankadivas * verdant shores their home for a time, are soon busily employed in packing up their travelling appurtenances, anxious to avail themselves of the first boat that pushes off, to take them to the shore.

Many, buoyant with hope, and in the full strength and vigour of manhood, looking forward with eager anticipation to the comple tion of schemes and projects, whereby they hope to make a fortune, resolving to devote the whole energy of their nature to ensure the accomplish ment of their plans. Could some of the dreamers but raise the veil of futurity, numbers would shrink back appalled ; for, in lieu of wealth and renown, they would see the phantoms of disease and untimely death throwing around their gloomy shadows, an J hovering in their path. But, as the orient sun rises in unclouded splendour, casting the red blush of his morning beams around on land and sea, so man revels in bright visions of what is to be, until the dull realities of life, like clouds obscuring the brilliant beams of the planet, cast their shade over the rays of hope. * The ancient name used by the natives for Ceylon.

To return to our description of the harbour. As soon as the sun has risen, the waters appear to teem with canoes, hastening to the steamer, some bringing provisions, others to land passengers and their baggage, whilst large boats heavily freighted with coal, force their way between the lesser craft. The scene of confusion on board the steam-vessel soon becomes indescribable. Passengers are seen tossing their various packages into the canoe that is to bear them to the shore, and hurriedly attempt to descend the ladder at the steamer's side, but in so doing, encounter coolees ascending, carrying baskets of coal, and each then jostles and hustles the other, in the attempt made by either party to pursue their respective routes. Then arises and resounds a confusion of tongues and languages, only to be equalled by that of Babel, exclamations in English, Cingalese, French, Tamil, Portugese, Hindostanee, in short in every known, and almost unknown, language in the world assail the ear, with comments neither polite, nor peculiarly complimentary upon the agflity of the tawny sons of Adam.

A native with a very minute portion of dirty rag, attached to his person through the medium of a piece of coir rope tied around his loins, will step upon the deck, with some trifling article for sale, and possibly en counter a blushing bride, or fair damsel fresh from Albion's shores. The fair lady retreats a pace or two, with a slight scream at sight of the un clothed dusky figure, placing her hand before her eyes to exclude the disagreeable vision. Then will follow a Moorman with shaven head, a round embroidered cloth cap, thickly padded with cotton, placed on the top of his shorn cranium to protect it from the sun's powerful rays, with at least six yards of cotton, either white or coloured, tied round his loins with a showy silk handkerchief, forming a kind of petticoat reach ing to his ankles, (called by the natives Comboy,) but leaving him in a complete state of nudity from the waist upwards.

This demi-nude speci men of humanity has in all probability brought some articles of vertu or curiosity to sell, at all events what he considers so, consisting of knife handles, and snuff-boxes, cut out of the molar tooth of the elephant, some fine samples of various coloured glass which he endeavours to palm off as precious stones and gems of the first water. These are accompanied or succeeded by divers other natives and inhabitants of the island, some of them offering tortoise-shell and silver bodkins for the hair, others calamander work-boxes inlaid with ivory, carved ebony caskets, and baskets made from the porcupine's quills, for sale. Amongst the multitude who regard the steams boat gentlemen, travellers being thus designated by all the native denizens of Ceylon, as their lawful game, are the touters for the hottels, for so lodging-houses are called by these copper coloured gentiy.

The touter is invariably a half-caste, or burgher, who generally abounds in a very undue appreciation of his own dignity, and position, and this gentleman, in his own estimation, will place a card in the hands of a traveller and descant most fluently in broken English, upon the good cheer, moderate charges, and comforts that are to be found in the parti cular hostel which he has the felicity to represent. So soon as the eloquence of the touter has in duced a passenger, or passengers, to trust him self or themselves to his guidance, he intimates to a coolee that it is his will and pleasure, that such and such baggage should be placed in a particular canoe, not condescending to lower his dignity by touching, lifting, or carrying port manteau, carpet-bag, hat-box, or dressing-case. When these minor arrangements are completed, he precedes the traveller down the ladder, el bowing his way, vociferating in an authoritative B manner, to clear a path as he rudely thrusts the coolees aside.

Most ludicrous is the assumption of these half-castes, who are held in supreme contempt by the full-caste natives, their greatest term of reproach being — " he burgher man," (or half-caste,) and many a hearty guffaio is in dulged in at their expense by Europeans. The landing-place is a pier, extending some two hundred feet into the water, at the shore end of which is a rude building, bearing a strong resemblance to a dilapidated bam ; this is the Custom-house, and to it the baggage is taken, and the inquiry made if it consists solely of personal effects, or if there is any merchandize intermixed. If the reply is satisfactory, the packages are passed unopened, after the owner has signed a declaration that he has no article for sale or barter; for should there be any mar ketable commodities, the packing-cases are de tained to be examined, and duties levied.

Never shall we forget our amazement at the grotesque costume and appearance of one of the subordi nate Custom-house officers, who was a native of the Malabar coast, of the Chitty caste, or those professing belief in the doctrines of the Romish Church. The man carried on his head a black velvet cap about six inches in height, which CHITTY MAN. projected forward in a hom-like manner, on either side of his head, the edges of the head-dress being trimmed with a thin gold cord. His long black hair, redolent of cocoa-nut oil, was combed back fi-om the copper-coloured face, and twisted into a knot, close down to the nape of the neck, protrud ing beneath the head gear. In each ear were three gold rings, studded with coloured stones, and these ear-rings being fully thirteen inches in diameter, rested upon the shoulders, a square piece having been cut out of the lobe of the ear, to allow the insertion of these ponderous and barbarous decorations.

This mortal had on a white cotton jacket, open in front, thus exposing to view his hairy breast, although to one side of the vest were attached innumerable jewelled buttons ; round his loins were longitudinally rolled several yards of white calico, (forming the petticoat or comboy,) the end of which being brought round his body, hung down the front of his person. The comboy was confined round his loins by a handkerchief folded crossways, the extremities of which being pendant at his back, formed a novel caudal termination, not hitherto mentioned by naturalists. The comboy reaching to his ankles, which were guiltless of covering, as well as his unshod splay feet, which appeared doubly brown from being contrasted with the white petticoat. This gentleman carried in his hand as a protection against the sun's rays, a Chinese umbrella, made of black varnished paper, with a bamboo stick for the handle ; and we do not think that our visual organs ever beheld a more ludicrous spectacle than the tout ensemble o| this being presented.

We cannot dwell upon the impression pro duced on the minds of those fresh from Europe, when they gaze for the first time upon a crowd of half or rather unclothed Asiatics, who throng around them when they land, some being stimulated by the desire to induce the " steam-boat gentlemen" to purchase their goods, whilst others, from mere curiosity and indolence, will stand staring, open mouthed ; the boys with no other covering save that which nature has bestowed on all, namely that of their long hair streaming down their backs, clamorously asking for pice, or half pence. The Fort of Galle, as the town is called, is approached by an ancient moss-grown archway, which, with the ramparts and town, were built by the Dutch after they had obtained possession of Galle, a.d. 1G40. Tradition affirms that Galle is indebted for its appellation and symbol — a cock — to an error of the Portugese conquerors, who preceded the Dutch in Ceylon.

The natives named this spot most appropriately, as it is sur rounded by rocks, Galla, which is the Cingalese for rock : but the Portugese confounded this word with Gallus, or cock. Galle is generally garrisoned by a company of the " Ceylon Rifles," composed of Malays and Kaffres, and a detachment of whatever regiment of the line is on ser vice in Ceylon. The uniform of the Ceylon Rifles is dark green, and the Malays make tolerably efficient soldiers, (being far more in trepid and active than the Kaffres,) when com manded by judicious officers. Under the gate way, a sentinel is stationed; and opposite to the archway, as you enter, is the guard-house, tenanted either by our own soldiers or by the Asiatics, as the duty alternates between the regiment of the line and the Ceylon Rifles. In the verandah of this building, the soldiers lounge when off guard, and if our men are there, they may be frequently seen enjoying the luxury of a cheroot with extreme gusto ; but, if the Rifles are on duty, the Malays and Kafl'res are invariably to be seen masticating a compound of the leaves and nuts of the areka palm and chunam, bespat tering the whole verandah and ground with the disgusting red saliva, produced by chewing their favourite combination called betel.

Situate upon an ascent, a short distance from the guard-house, is the Queen's house, a governor's residence, when he visits Galle. This building was erected in 1687, and over the door way the date is inscribed, above which appears the local symbol — the cock. A verandah ex tends the whole length of this residence, which is shaded by some magnificent trees introduced from Java by one of the early Dutch governors, the botanical name of these splendid exotics is Mimusops Elengi. The ramparts extend about a mile and a quarter, enclosing the town, which consists of three principal streets, these being intersected by several minor ones. The houses built on either sides of the streets, are but one story in height — or to speak more correctly, con sist merely of ground floors, and, to the best of our remembrance, there were but three residences at Galle that had an upper story — these were called an up-stairs.