Sultan to Sultan. Adventures among the Masai and other tribes of East Africa

Front matter

SULTAN TO SULTAN. Adventures among the Masai and other Tribes of East Africa. BY M. FRENCH-SHELDON, " Bebe Bwana." Boston, Mass.: Arena Pub. Co. Copley Sq- LONDON : SAXON & CO. 23 Bouverie St., Fleet St., E. C. 1892. \ Copyrighted 1892. By M. French-Sheldon. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. FOREWORD. From the public I crave indulgence for all shortcomings, with the assurance that under the crushing weight of a supreme sorrow which has overtaken me whilst "Sultan to Sultan" has been in press, it has been with an aching heart I have com pleted the work, endeavoring with fortitude to do my best to make my readers better acquainted with the possibilities of the natural primitives whom I am proud to call my friends and be called friend by, and to demonstrate that if a woman could journey a thousand and more miles in East Africa, among some hostile tribes, unattended by other than Zanzibaris mer cenaries, without bloodshed, the extreme measures employed by some would-be colonizers is unnecessary, atrocious, and with- 4 out the pale of humanity.

To the indefatigable efforts of my publishers, especially to Mr. H. H. Boyce, who, with sympa thy and consideration, has personally spared me the countless detail of the work ; to the artists who have entered into the spirit of the illustrations, and actually reproduced the photographs and the curios, waiving artistic desire to make alter ations ; to the printers, and the Victorians of Manchester, England, for the sketch map of my route ; and finally to friends who have seen me bravely through, I owe un qualified thanks. Author. Boston, Mass., U. S. A, August 20, 1892. TABLE OF FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS.

Chapter I

CHAPTER II. The Treacherous Guide ........ 46

CHAPTER VI.

Plodding through an African Boulevard . . . . . 146

CHAPTER VIII.

Natives coming to see Bebe Bwana . . . . . . 184

CHAPTER IX.

On a Secret Mission ......... 200

CHAPTER X.

Map 214

CHAPTER XI.

A Pause for Breath 238 Natives and Ostrich about my Kitchen 254

CHAPTER XII.

Afloat on Lake Chala, May 9, 1891 270

CHAPTER XIII.

Tall Grass 288 Natives near Kilimanjaro . TABLE OF FULL-PAGE ILLUSTRATIONS.

CHAPTER XIV. OP

;™TE Entering the Forest 306 Natives crowding around Caravan . . . . . • • 316

CHAPTER XV.

Part of an Encampment . . . . . . . . 322 Group of Taveta Natives ........ 330

CHAPTER XVI.

Hamidi, Caravan and Natives ....... 334 Poor Bebe, no Rings 342 Stream forded by Caravan . . . . . . . . 350

CHAPTER XVII.

Kilame Natives bringing Peace Offering . . . . . 356

CHAPTER XVIII.

Sultan Mireali's Subjects attend my Full-dress Reception . . 378 Sultan Mireali's Boma with some of his Wives and Surias . . 386

CHAPTER XIX.

Contemplative Natives . . . . . . . . . 392 Cow sent by Mireali ......... 402

CHAPTER XX.

African Stream swum by Caravan ....... 408 Photographic Fiction . . . . . . . . . 414

CHAPTER XXI.

M. French-Sheldon in Court Dress . . . . . .

CHAPTER I. PAGE

Ho ! for East Africa ......... 13 Starting from London. — Adieu to Friends. — First Obstacle. — Palanquin and All safely on Board Steamship "Madura." — At Naples. — Heartbreaking Farewell. — Reviewing the Situation. — Life on Shipboard. — Port Said- — Suez Canal. — Sights on Voyage. — Aden.

CHAPTER II.

Aden to Mombasa 34 Sights about Aden — Local Color. — Saffron Woman, — Palanquin on View. — Captain's Brutality turns to my Disadvantage. — Lamu. — My Great Obstacle. — Rumored Disturbances in German Occupancy. — Xearing Mombasa.

Chapter III

Mombasa to Zanzibar . 63 Approaching Mombasa. — My Obstacle protests. — Silence a Virtue. — Frere Town Mission. — Impractical Christianity, Industrial Mission. — Native Drink. — A Desultory Glance. — The White Men in the English Occupancy.

Chapter IV

Forming my Caravan 83 My Undertaking scouted. — Difficulty in recruiting Porters. — Gaining the Auspices of the Sultan of Zanzibar. — Visits to the Harem. — Behind Closed Doors. — Sultan's Letter. — Caravan sworn in. — Malignant Fever. — Back to Mombasa. — My Obstacle converted. — Mr. Mackenzie's Letter. — Everything in Train. —Native's Quaint Expression. — No Cripples. — Twins tabooed. — Stigmatized Bits of Metal.

Chapter V. Page

The First March io8 Rain. — A First Start. — My Host. — Variety of Supplies. — Routine of Daily Life. — Patience and Other Traits of my Contingents. — Tangenizing, the African Synonyme of the American Fixing. — Natives' Quaint Acts, Sign Language. — No Infirm, no Cripples. — Twins. — Treachery punished.

Chapter VI

First Alarm. Excitable Porters 13° Masai Scare. — Products. — Flogging Porters to protect themselves and the Natives. — Methods of Discipline. — - Kara, the Samson of the Caravan. — Ants. — Jiggers and Other Pests. — Pink Locusts. — Floral Colors. — Turtles. — Helices. — Name Ring.

Chapter VII

Wa-Nyika and Wa-Duruma 153 Thorny March. — Homage commanded from Natives. — Christened as Bebe Bwana. — Directness of Language. — Buss concludes a Bargain. — Wa-Duruma. — Wa-Shenzie. — Slaves own Slaves. — Foot-sore. — Making Camp. — Comforts of my Itinerary. — Tooth-Sticks. — Capt. Stairs's Hints for Camps, etc.

Chapter VIII

Revolt and Death . 173 First and Last Revolt. — Severe Measures necessary. — Rock Reservoirs. — Yellow Birds. — Medical Duties. — Nightly Horrors. — Marching in the Storm. — A Sentimental if not Faithful Wife. — Porter devoured by Lions. — An Invalid. — Deserted Villages. — Primitive Methods of tilling the Ground.

Chapter IX

Depraved Wa-Teita . . . . . . . . . . 187 Difficult March. — Accident to my Eye. — Sagalia Mission deserted. — Depravity of the Wa-Teita. — Decoration the Religion of Dress. — Arrow Poison. — Polygamy climatic. — Kilimanjaro seen in Distance. — Palanquin pursued by Native Gamins. — The Ceremonious Art of spitting. — ■ Whilst eating, viewed in Wonderment. — A Ducking. — Noli Me Tangere. — Device appreciated. — Dying by the Wayside. — "Buck Fever." — A Happy Shot. — Big Game. — Birds. — Plea for Methods of Transportation.

Chapter X. Page

On to Taveta . 20g Lake Jipo. — Kilimanjaro. — Another Masai Scare. — A Test of Valor. Taveta Gates. — A Cloud-Burst. — Bribery in Africa. — Welcomed by Wa-Taveta. — Habits, Costumes, and Industries. — The Woman of Taveta. — Funeral Rites. — Worship. — Secretiveness respecting the Dead. — Pombe Cups. — Dubious Origin of Designs. — Medical Practices. — Dancing. — Decorations affected by the Men. — Trying to amuse Natives. — Singular Armlets. — King Ja-Ja Ring. — Articles craved by Natives. — Confidence in Author.

Chapter XI

Arcadian Taveta . . . . . . . . . .238 Attributes of Character. — Farm Products. — Rotten Egg. — Tanning Leather. — Clannish Selection of Ornament. — Sumptuous Display of Native Jewelry. — Marriage Customs. — Mixed Family Relations. — Native Medical Clinic. — Childhood's Limits. — Education by I Ibservation. — Circumscribed Language. — Fire-Sticks. — Shooting Fish. — Universal Kindness to Children. — Harmless Freedom in the Intermingling of the Sexes.

Chapter XII

Circumnavigation of Lake Chala 260 My Expedition to Lake Chala. — English Officer and Mission. — Doctor's Kindness. — Adventurous Descent to and Circumnavigation of Lake Chala. — My Friends, the Hostile Rombos, subsequently Dr. Peters's Victims.

Chapter XIII

Vulcans of Chaga 284 Fundis Craftsmen or Blacksmiths of Chaga Land. — Experts, among which are Sultans Mandara and Mireali. — Mandara's Disablement. — Simplicity of Native Tools. — Forging Spears out of Iron Wire. — Methods used. — Charcoal Making. — High Rank of a Fundi. — A Fundi's Pride. — Jewellers who make Delicate Chains, Beads, Bracelets, Armlets, Necklaces, Ear-Rings, and Bells. — Variety"1 of Ornaments. — Burnishing. — Religion of Ornamentation. — Men indulge in Vanities. — Do the Fancy Beadwork, leaving the Women to till the Ground and care for Cattle. — Following Fashion. — Various Significance of Bells. — Masai Women's Ornaments. — Patterns used for Spears. — Mark of the Maker. — Rombo Small Spears. — Using all Bits of Metal for Ornaments. — Adaptation of Bottles. — - Native Unconscious Nudity. — Story of a Masai Spear.

Chapter XIV. Page

Primitive Kimangelia 301 Forest Village never before visited by a White Person. — Debatable Territorial Lines. — Native Guides. — Passing through Used. — Women's Decorations. — Uncivil Sultan receives a Rebuff. — Wild Animals. — A Masai Woman's Corpse stripped of its Ornaments. — Sudden Change of Temperature. — All suffer from the nightly Cold. — Trying Route. — Sweet Odors of Vegetation induce Asthma. — Phosphorescent Mists. — Revelations of the Night. — Nocturnal Attack of a Python. — Snakes and Serpents. — Cutting Way through Forest. Habits and Customs. — Called Author God. — Stone Spear. Discovery of a Cave.

Chapter XV

Masai .... 3i9 Blustering Masai. — Attacks upon Taveta make a Trade of War. — The Wandurobo Dwarfish if not Dwarfs. — Forbidding Passage through Country. — Women's Privileges. — Grass as an Emblem of Truce. — Salt Stone Analysis, by the Royal College of Science, London.— Women's Regulation Garb. — Men's Theatrical Get-up and Actions. — Meat-Eaters. — One Thousand ready for Battle. — " Wow," a Threat met by Threat. — Blind Zeal in Photography. — Spitting an Urbane Civility. — Values of Women and Cattle. — Full-dress Reception.— Picturesque Phrases.

Chapter XVI

Heroic Hamidi and Others 334 Hamidi, Author's Headman of Headmen. — Refusing to conduct Author. — Heroic Action. — Final Consent. — His Devotion to his Leader.— Woman's Loin-Cloth. - Wa-Kahe Belief in Transmigration of the Spirits of their Ancestors. — Wa-Kahe Industries. —Native Thief captured.— Tempted by Desire to possess a Waterproof Cloth. —A Little Maid of Kilema's Generosity. — Establishing a Code of Prestige -Latent Fun of the Natives. -To wish for was to possess. — Josefe dubbed as the Trumpet os Bebi. -Answering me as Sir. - Members I of my Migrating Household. - Washing Days.— Women Porters - Porters secreting Articles in their Wool. - Daily Life among Porters. — Cutting out Thorns. — Caravan Anchor.

Chapter XVII

Sultan Mireali 356 Mireali, Sultan os Marungu, dressed as a Guy. -His Warm Welcome and Generosity. - Resumption of Native Costume. -Coveted Music Box.-H.s Wives, Surias, and Household. — MireaU's Talks — His Contentions with Mandara. — His Ambition to become enlightened. '*c« — Sultan Mariama and the Saw. — Native Fabrics. — Native-made Candles. — Stuff of Court Gown called Queens' Cloth. — Sunglass. — Mireali dances the Moon Dance. — A Deputation of his Subjects en treating the Author to stay. — Happy Chance for a Photograph. — The Perished Umbrella. — Messenger from Sultan to Sultan. — How to check Interpreter.

Chapter XVIII

Characters . . . . . . . . . . -377 Musical Instruments. — Sultan Fumbo. — Ramezan's Artifice. — Baraka, my Steward. — Establishment of Discipline. — Porter Francez. — Roll Call.

Chapter XIX

Sultan Mandara of Moschi . . . . . . . .391 His Crafty, Unscrupulous Ways. — Visit to his Boma. — Caves at the Foot of the Hill of the Site of his Village. — Fiction with Germans. — Story of a Little Native Child.

Chapter XX

Fleeting Sights 4°6 Albinos. — Meeting Elephants. — Big Game. — Water Incident. — Women classed by Garments. — Offering a Head of Hair for Sale. — Effect of Climate on Photography. — A Photographic Fiction.

Chapter XXI

Homeward Bound . . . . . . . • ... 416 Through the German Territory. — Palanquin Accident. — Meeting Capt. Stairs. — Care on Steamship "Madura." — Familiar Scenes. — Arrival at Naples. — Home again. CHVPTER XXII. Aftermath . . . . • • ■ • • • 42^ Medical and Surgical Appliances 43 TABLE OF TEXT ILLUSTRATIONS.

Chapter I

Initial Letter H,Two Native Water-Carriers joined by Rubber Plant. — H. S. Wellcome. — E. L. Sheldon. — Surgeon T. H. Parke. — Naples. — Aden. — Capt. Avern. — Steamship "Madura." — Dredge on Suez Canal. — Port Said Jetty. — Entrance to Suez Canal. — Bedouin Arab Chief. — Arab Camel Caravan. — Water Caravan. — Suez. — Native Dobe or Washerwoman. — Tailpiece, Cas solet used on Coaling Barges.

Chapter II

Initial Letter A, Tiger. — Mosque at Aden. — Masai Head-Dress, Red and White Painted Leather Face Piece, Ostrich Plumes. — Abyssinian Warrior. — Water Tanks at Aden. — Son of the Mahadi. — Delight of a Cordo fan, Negro on a Chicken Coop. — Fellah Water-Carrier. — Abyssinian Slave Children. — Egyptian Scissors-Grinders. — Native Types of Porters. — Bushiri, the Slave Raider. — Somali Family. — Queen of Somali. — The Queen's Slave Woman. — Chaga Carved Snuff-Box, Egyptian Design. — Author's Sun Protect ors. — Slave Dhow, built without Metal Spikes or Cleats. — Yarbon Lelli, one of my Faithfuls. — George S. Mackenzie, my Great Obstacle. — Mombasa Fort, built by Vasco "da Gama in Sixteenth Century. — Tailpiece, Ostrich Boa and Feathers bought at Aden.

Chapter III

Initial Letter W, Lemur. — Cocoanut Plantation, Mombasa. — Author's Hand, showing Rings and Bracelets for Gifts. — Arab Quarters, Mom basa. — Date Palm. — Soudanese Warriors. — Snuff- Box, studded Silver, Metal Chain, Chaga make. — Arab Woman selling Bananas to Porter. — Gourd Snuff-Box, studded Silver and Carved Patterns, Chaga make. — Arab Blind Beggar. — Snuff-Box, studded Silver, Metal Chain, Chaga make. — Rescued Slave Girls, Various Tribes. — Abyssinian Slave Girl. — Native Warriors. TABLE OF TEXT ILLUSTRATIONS. 7 Somali Warriors. — Ear Stretcher worn by Missionary Girls, Mombasa. — Tail piece, Eland Bull.

Chapter IV

Initial Letter F, African Monkey and Grass. — Mombasa from English Point.— M. French-Sheldon, Bebe Bwana, in Travelling Costume. — Sultan of Zanzibar, Autographed Photograph. — Ivory Market at Bagamoyo. — Sultan's Three Henchmen. — Woman of Sultan's Harem. — Woman of Sultan's Harem. — Sultan's Letter. — Arab Letter- Writer. — Arabian Musician. — Arab Sugar- Cane Seller and Porters. — Dervish Musician. — Mombasa. — Harbor Zanzibar and Sultan's Palace. — George S. Mackenzie's Letter. — Black Ivory, or Slaves at Bagamoyo. — Tailpiece, Hunteri.

Chapter V

Initial Letter M, African Elephant's Head and Moss. — Josefe and Natives. — Arabs Resting. — A Study of Pombe Cups, Author's Collection. — Buffalo Bull's Head. — Masai Flag of Truce, a Song 'of Peaceful Intentions, carried by Author's Caravan. — Khartoum Negro before Barber's Day. — Whirling and Howling Dervishes seen at Zanzibar. — Type Native Soldier. — Type Native Soldier. — Type Native Soldier. — Native Women Water-Carriers. — Small Game • a daily Scene on Safari. — Masai Spear. — Colored Trade Cloths. — Second Study of Pombe Cups in Author's Collection. — Gourd Water Bottle or Calabash, ornamented with Beads and Metal Chains. — Brass Chain Necklace, Chaga make. — Ear Ornament made of Wart Hog Tusks united with Braided Fibre, ornamented with Chains. — Tailpiece, Bush Buck.

Chapter VI

Initial Letter S, Giraffe and Native Grasses. — Wait-a-Bit Tree. — Brass Bead Necklace, Chaga make. — Luncheon in the Open. — Inlaid Wooden Bowl stained Brown. — Wooden Pot, stained Brown, dug out of a solid Piece with Knives or Flints. — Inlaid Wooden Bowl. — Egg-shaped and Venetian Trade Beads. — 'Dawa, or Medicine Beads, made of Black Beans. — Jewelled Swords given to Sultan Mandara. — Knob Kerry Sticks made variously of Ebony, Rhinoceros Horn, and Ivor}'. — Author's Rifle and Gun Case first made by Natives East Africa. — Portrait of Headman Hamidi. — Native Knives of all kinds, and Sheaths. — Kara, Samson of the Caravan. — Native Banana Knife taken from the Forge, unpolished. — Native Wooden Pot. — Third Study of Pombe Cups, showing first Attempt of Figure Drawing, and a Wooden Pan Pipe. — Twin Meal Pots. — Helices found from Coast to Highest Point travelled on Kilimanjaro by Author. — French-Sheldon Name Rings. —Tailpiece, Hunteri. TABLE OF TEXT ILLUSTRATIONS.

Chapter VII

Initial Letter T, African Lion and Palm-Tree. — Study Pombe Cups. — M'toto Bunduki, Author's Revolvers. — Egyptian Musician. — Women of the Harem. — Egyptian Couriers. — Native Gossips. — Loads for Four Porters. — Grass Mat for Porter's Bed. — Sandal, Bottom and Top. — Pombe Cup.— Wooden Pipe. — Wooden Ear Stretcher. — Capt. Wm. E. Stairs, R. E. — Native Wooden Basin. — The M. French- Sheldon Medicine Belt. — Chart of Camp. — Tailpiece, Eland Cow.

Chapter VIII

Initial Letter P, Masai Donkeys' Heads and Cacti. — Wait-a-Bit Thorn. Raconta Beads. — Native Wooden Combs. — Native Medicine Box. — Trade Beads. — Metal Necklaces for Gifts. — Masai Long Spear. — Kanzu worn by Headman. — Copper Bead Kibosho Necklace. — Wooden Meal Dish. — Sweet Grass Bead Necklace. — Bead-inlaid Bowl. — Native Four-legged Dish, made of one Piece of Wood. — Spiral Metal Necklace, Native Work. — Native Wooden Spoon. — Hide and Bead Cap worn by Sultans. — Tailpiece, Head of Gazella Walleri.

Chapter IX

Initial Letter D, Native Goat with Black Face, and Foliage. — Wa-Teita Hut and Banana-Tree. — Poisoned Arrows and Fire Arrows. — Native Metal Rings and Goatskin Brotherhood Rings. — Snuff- Box made Gazelle's Horn, and ornamented. — Brass and Iron Beads, Native make. — Goatskin Flap, ornamented with Beads and Chains, worn by many Tribes. — Wa-Teita Bead and Metal Ear-Rings, Twenty-four worn at a Time. — Wa-Teita Ear-Rings, made of Masai Beads. — Wa-Teita Bead Hoop Ear-Rings, Twenty-four and more worn in One Ear. — Wa-Teita Sem-Sem, small Blue and Red Bead Necklace, ponderous. — Caravan Path. — Beaded African Fig Leaf, called by other Travellers Tassels. — Two Beaded Girdles. — Pigeon-Egg shaped Beads, and Pinhead Beads. — Bead-inlaid Dish. — Wooden Basin. — Rhinoceros Head. — Jewelled Presents given Sultans. — Tailpiece, Gazella Walleri.

Chapter X

Initial Letter W, Fat-tailed Sheep, with Giant Ferns. — Lake Jipo. — A Test of Valor. — Living Tree Gates of Taveta. — Wild Cotton Pod, unnamed. — Taveta White and Pink Girdle. — Study of Four Pombe Cups. — Taveta Bead Collar and Necklace. — The Woman of Taveta. — Bead Belt presented to Author by the Woman of Taveta. — Calf's Stomach Head-Dress, ornamented with Beads and Chains. — Snuff-Box, ornamented with Beads and Chains. — TABLE OF TEXT ILLUSTRATIONS. 9 Brass Wire Spring Necklace, Native make. — Cotton Cap made by Porters on Safari. — Cotton Cap made on Safari, from which Natives copy Designs for Pombe Cups. — Silver-inlaid Wooden Bowl. — Dawa Necklace. — Taveta Bead Belts, Pink and White, Red and Blue. — Taveta Four-legged Stool, made out of One Piece of Wood, Top of Stool Designs burned in — Child's Bead Fringe Girdle. — Fine Chain Girdle, Bone Armlet. — Silver Ring of King Ja-Ja, similar in Design to Bone Armlet. — Josefe, the Interpreter, Wag of the Caravan. — Tailpiece, Male Water Buck.

Chapter XI

Initial Letter G, Ostrich and African Papyrus. — Wa-Teita Sweet Grass Necklace. — View of Kilimanjaro. — Author's Alpine Stock with Noli Me Tangere Pennant. — Taveta People. — B£b£ Bwana's Canvas Villa. — A Quiet Siesta in my Palanquin. — Bead and Chain Embroidered Loin-Cloth of Sultana. — Snuff- Box. — Native Mail Carriers with Despatches from Home. — Porters coaxing a Fire during a Cold Day. — Bearded Masai Warrior's Collar, won when Twelve Foes have been killed. — Bead-inlaid Gourd. — Warrior's Spear. — Catherine Wheel Double Brass Ear- Ring. — A Future Warrior. — Tailpiece, Brindled Wildebeest Bull.

Chapter XII

Initial Letter W, Vultures and Foliage. — Lake Chala, Southwestern View. — Lake Chala, Northeastern View. — Phalacrocorax Africanus, shot on Lake Chala. — Phalacrocorax Carbo, shot on Lake Chala. — View Kilimanjaro. — Rombo Spear. — Rombo Hippopotamus Hide Shield, embossed Designs, Outside. — Rombo Shield, Inside. — Toy Bird Cause of a Panic. — Hostile Rombos. — Rombo Victims of German Guns. — Tailpiece, Bush Buck.

Chapter XIII

Initial Letter V, Turtle and Maize. — Brass and Iron Bell Ear-Rings. — Native Calfskin Bellows. — Native Calfskin Bellows. — Masai Spear. — Group Metal Chain Ear- Rings, Brass, Copper, and Iron, and Glass Beads. — Real Size Smallest Chaga Brass Beads. — Metal Ear-Rings. — Native Seme and Scabbard. — Iron Bell worn by Woman during First Pregnancy. — Bells worn by Infants. — Medicine Man's Knife and Poison Tubes. — Set of Orna ments worn by Masai Woman. Iron Coils finished with Brass and Copper. — Warrior's Bell with Beaded Leg-Band. — Dancing Bell. — Native Vulcan's make of Bracelets and Goatskin Bracelet. — Tailpiece, Brindled Wildebeest Bull. TABLE OF TEXT ILLUSTRATK »NS. 10

Chapter XIV

Initial Letter K, Elephants and Hippopotamus and Palm-Tree. — Masai Colobus-skin Leglet. — Ostrich Feather Masai Mask. — Useri Head Orna ment. — Masai El- Moran. — Masai El- Moran. — Buffalo Bull. — Palanquin and Python. — Chaga Chain Filet. — Camping Ground, Kimangelia. — Chaga Snuff- Box, ornamented Copper Wire Chains and Beads. — Chain and Bead Girdle. — Metal Bead Necklace. — Tailpiece, Male Water Buck, or Kobus Sing-Sing.

Chapter XV

Initial Letter B, Striped Mouse, Balsams, and Heliotrope. — Masai Woman's Neck Armor of Metal Coils. — Masai Brass Picked-out Bracelet. — Masai Women Callers. — Masai War Mask, Ostrich Feathers and Lion's Mane. — Split Vulture Feather Ruff, Part of Masai War Uniform. — Masai Necklace, Metal Chains and Spring. — Masai Nebara, White and Red Cotton sewn to gether in Strips. — Wow, Masai Warrior threatening. — Masai Women with Neck Armor and Catherine Wheel Ear-Rings and Hide Helmet. — Masai Brass Picked-out Collar. — Tailpiece, Male M'pallah.

Chapter XVI

Initial Letter N, Zebra and Huge Maidenhair Fern. — Masai Ostrich Mask. — Masai Spears and Shields, with Archaic Designs. — Chaga Metal Chain Girdle. — Large Masai Nebara, Brilliant Red and White Cotton. — Leather Beaded Loin-Cloth with a History. — Portraits of Four Headmen. — Head of Oryx Beisa Bull. — Colobus Monkey-Skins. — An old Masai warning Author. — Tailpiece.

Chapter XVII

Initial Letter A, with Humming-Bird and Convolvulus. — Delicate Chain Necklace, with Spiral Brass Pendants. — Sultan Mireali in Native Atlire. — Presentation Jewelled Belt, Dagger, and Ornaments. — Bead Girdles worn solely as Attire by Mireali Surias (Women). — Beaded Fig Leaf, sometimes called a Tassel. — Beaded Fig Leaf, Metal Fringed. — Agary Beads and Dawa Chains, rare. — Candle made by Sultan Mireali. — Sultan Mireali and Courtiers. — Dancing Wig, Front View, made of Colobus Monkey Hair. — Dancing Wig, Back View, made of Colobus Monkey White Fur. — Delicate Chain Necklace. — Useri Bone Ear-Rings. — Long Chain Necklaces, reach to the Wearer's Waist. — Moschi Carved Wooden Staff. — Masai Dancing Wand. — Staff covered with Iron Rings, to conserve for Various Uses. — Tailpiece, Head Male M'pallah (Melampus pallah). TABLE OF TEXT ILLUSTRATIONS. 11

Chapter XVIII

Initial Letter L, Gazelles and Papyrus. — Ramezan. — Baraka. — Sultan Fumba's Crown. — Sultan Fumba and Suite. —Tailpiece, Kudu.

Chapter XIX

Initial Letter I, Hippopotamus and Palm. — Sultan Mandara of Moschi. — African Spear. — Held in Bondage. — Study of Native-made Spoons. — Arab Flags of Welcome. — Blue Cotton Bead and Chain Embroidered Woman's Cloth. — Out of the Forest. —Tailpiece, Eland Bull.

Chapter I. Ho

! FOR EAST AFRICA OFor East Africa ! possessed my brain when all the preparations possible to make before reaching Aden were completed, and a myriad of boxes and a bewilderment os non descript packages — my tent, gun, table, chairs, pistols, photographic apparatus, and personal effects — had been sent by steamer to meet me at Naples, and for the first time I felt I was without doubt actually bound for East Africa. A hundred or more sympathetic friends and acquaintances, thronging the Charing Cross Station, albeit London was benighted in a pea-soup fog, thick, black, damp, and chilly, I was thrilled with ineffable delight. Gruesome remarks were intermingled with inspiring words of faith in my success: " Well, you have my prayers for safe return." " If you return alive, what a story you'll have to tell !

" " Do be reason able, and abandon this mad, useless scheme." " Brave woman, you'll ac complish all you aim to ; we owe you a vote of thanks for your cour age and self-sacrifice." "Be cauhenrv s. wellcome. tious, vigilant, ready for any surprise, careful of your health, and you'll win," said Surgeon T. H. Parke. And A. Bruce, the sturdy son-in-law of the great Livingstone, thrust into my hands a long-range field glass, as if to bid me be far-sighted. "Remember, nothing is accomplished without giving your self up to the work at whatever sac rifice, and that honest failure is not defeat. We believe you will suc ceed." His true words were branded on my brain indelibly, and echoed E. L. SHELDON. through my thoughts time out of number. Around me pressed lovely girl friends, sentimental hero-worshippers, who set the HO !

FOR EAST AFRICA. ■'5 seal of admiration upon my lips by their farewell kiss, and whispered, "ffow f wish f could go with you!" Sedate man friends looked compassionately at my husband, and involun tarily calculated that the time would be brief ere he should regret his consent, which I had flouted widely, as evidence that when he sanctioned my undertaking, it was not irra tional. We were off midst cheers, pelting of flowers, and the usual half-hysterical, frantic commotion attending a de parture where a friend's life seemed at stake. At last the cars were speeding away from Lon don town, and my husband and two friends, H. S. Wellcome, Surgeon T. H. Parke, and myself were the sole occupants of the railway carriage, destined for Dover. The conversation was somewhat constrained; however, the good doctor heaped upon me a host of practical advice, the outcome SURGEON T. H. PARKE. of his expansive experience respecting the preservation of my own health, and the amelioration of probable sufferings from the inevitable African fever ; as well as how to ad minister the contents of my extensive medical kit in behalf of my caravan.

He had taken pains to write out minute directions, and so plainly that a child could follow such in fullest detail. At Dover we parted from our two friends. Arriving at Calais, we hastily counted up the luggage and met the first difficulty. The railroad officials had not properly notified the manager of rolling stock of the dimen sions of my Palanquin, which proved too large to get into the luggage vans. Cables . were flashed back to London. We implored the officials, at our risk of damage, to place the box containing it upon a coal truck, or even to rip off the casing, all to no purpose ; red tape prevailed to such a degree not one official on the spot had authority to make the slightest innovation. The station master waved the detested green signal flag, then came the demon screech of the unthrottled engine, and away we whisked out of the station, yelling out of the window, until beyond hearing, messages to the officials, finally to relapse in silence, and deliberate as to what should be our next move.

Considering we had paid over ninety-five dollars (eighteen guineas) to register the Palanquin as personal luggage, we felt duped. Personally, I secretly thought it was rather absurd to think of trying to take the luxurious article with me, when it was next to impossible to have it transported from England to the coast of Italy after every care, forethought, and prearrangement had been devoted, to make it absolutely sure that it would go on the same train with us. At every station we raided the telegraph offices, made supervisory arrangements with station masters, saw various American consuls, in the hope of more effectually engaging the attention of railroad officials. Everything was being done at both ends. Unluckily, the luggage we had with us was left in charge of a dazed servant, who sat calmly by and HO.' FOR EAST AFRICA. 17 allowed part of it to be carried away from our train.

This then had to be sent back for. Then on reaching the Italian frontier the cases containing my medicines were suspected, but fortunately I was provided with a certified inventory furnished by the Italian consul at London, so this was soon adjusted. On reaching Naples, the steamship "Madura" had not been sighted, but was expected hourly, and would not remain in NAPLES. port but a few hours. News also came that the Palanquin had reached Rome, and would arrive next morning ; alas! in the usual course of things this would be too late for the ship, and hence, as a last resort, it would have to be taken to Brindisi, and shipped on the French Line to meet my ship at Aden. However, through the courtesy of the directors of the British East India Steamship Company, the agent was au thorized to detain the steamer one day for the Palanquin.

My "white elephant" arrived, and was held in durance at the bonded warehouse. The entire day we passed going from office to office showing my passports, testifying as to who I was, and what I proposed to do, and having the cased mys tery in all of its grandeur unboxed, examined, commented upon, explained; finally the next day — the ship had been ADEN. swinging at anchor for my benefit for twenty-four hours — the Palanquin was sent in charge of custom-house officials to be delivered personally by them upon the ship, so that it could not be tampered with ; one might have supposed it was a portable article I could pocket and surreptitiously sell to defraud the government. HO ! FOR EAST AFRICA. 19 The heat was torrid. Worry and our unflagging efforts had occupied our minds to the exclusion of the diresome thoughts of parting which would otherwise have made those last hours painful and melancholy.