Golden Dreams and Waking Realities; being the adventures of a Gold Seeker in California and the Pacific Islands

Front matter

GOLDEN DREAMS ANI> WAKING EEALITIES; BEING TUB ADVENTURES OF A GOLD -SEEKER IV CALIFORNIA AND THE PACIFIC ISLANDS. By WILLIAM SHAW. LONDON : SMITH, ELDER AND Co, 05, CORNIIILL. 1851. fitiOVU, PRINTER, TRINITY STREET, SOUT11WA UK.

ADVERTISEMENT.

Notwithstanding the numerous publications that have appeared on the subject of California, it is hoped that the present volume will be found interesting as a de scription of personal adventure, and a vivid and faithful picture of the vicissitudes and privations experienced by gold-seekers. The author does not belong to that class of reckless adventurers, who, destitute alike of character, industry and means, resorted to the "Diggings" vainly expecting to realize independence without much toil. Having chosen the sea as a profession, he sailed for India as a midshipman in 1 845 ; but his early predilection for travel inclining advertisement. him to visit other countries, he left the service, and in the year 1848, the tide ot emigration, which then set in towards South Australia, carried him to Adelaide.

Chapter I

Author leaves Adelaide for California — Crew and Passengers of the Mazeppa — Port Nicholson, New Zealand — Discomforts of the Ship — The Malay Crew, their Habits, Tempers, and Superstitions — A Water-spout. It was in Adelaide that the golden tidings of a new El Dorado in California first reached me ; and when I was in a mood most favourable to be excited by the marvellous reports that were brought of the wealth of that auriferous region. My prospects of success in South Australia, whither I had emigrated from England in the winter of 1848-9, were by no means promising, and I had actually engaged a THE MAZEPPA LEAVES ADELAIDE. passage home, in consequence. Restless, dissatis fied, and impatient of inaction, I eagerly caught at the glittering bait that dazzled the senses of so many ; and, notwithstanding the remonstrances of my friends, and their representations of the uncer tainty and dangers of such an expedition, I resolved on seeking my fortune at the ' Diggins.' Accordingly I transferred my birth to the Mazeppa, a small clipper-built ship of 170 tons register, which was chartered for San Francisco.

She had formerly traded to Singapore, and was manned by a Malay crew, seventeen in number. Previous to our sailing I was much amused by hearing the Malays and a party of Australian aborigines bandying the withering taunt of " black fellow," with other epithets in broken English, which they had picked up from the lips of sailors and bullock drivers. The Mazeppa was the first ship that left South Australia for the gold regions ; crowds flocked, therefore, to bid farewell to the little band of adventurers, and we left the wharf amidst deafening cheers from the Adeladians. Besides the captain, supercargo, and two mates, CEEW AND PASSENGERS. 3 there were five cabin passengers, who paid sixty pounds each for their passage ; and sixteen in the steerage, who paid only twenty pounds each. Most of the latter were old colonists ; sharp, shrewd fellows, who had seen a great deal of life and undergone many hardships : bushmen and black smiths, a carpenter and a shoemaker, some Germans and myself, formed a heterogeneous mess.

Owing to the extreme sharpness ofthe bows ofthe vessel, the forecastle was very narrow, and the crew were crowded into an inconceivably small space; the steerage, also, measured only sixteen feet square, by four feet ten inches high : close packing for sixteen passengers. Our scale of provisions, however, was exceedingly liberal ; far superior to any given out of English ports, and no ship-regulations were imposed on us : each one was left to his own dis cretion, and the greatest good feeling and harmony prevailed on board. In the steerage we were very social ; and though, being for the first time in my life thrown amongst such a rough lot, I felt somewhat embarrassed, yet, being of a flexible disposition, I soon got accustomed to my companions, and found them a very good set of fellows. b PORT NICHOLSON.

The wind being fair we reached Port Nicholson in ten days after leaving Adelaide, and put in for water at Wellington. While the Mazeppa lay here, I went on shore, and walked to the settlement of the Hutt, which i3 situated in a fertile valley, a short distance from the town. It is picturesque, and has all the appearance of a thriving settlement: a considerable area of ground was fenced in and under cultivation ; the soil is very rich, producing fine crops of wheat, oats, and barley. The New Zealand bush is more scrubby than the Australian wilds, the trees are more majestic, and better adapted for timber ; scantling, broad-paling, and shingling, have been sent in large quantities to California ; very fine spars, of great length and durability, felled in the New Zealand forests, are sent to Sydney for masts of vessels.

After leaving Port Nicholson, we encountered heavy weather, and took a northerly course, sighting Pitcairn's Island. On entering the tropics, we felt in full force all the inconveniences of our con fined berths and the proximity of the Malay crew ; from whom we were only separated by a thin par tition. The effluvia from coloured people, alwavs DISCOMFORTS OF THE SHIP. 5 disagreeable, and odious when aggravated by heat and uncleanliness, now became intolerable ; arid, to add to our disgust and discomfort, cock-roaches and other vermin swarmed everywhere. The ship had formerly been sugar laden, which accounted for the quantities of cock-roaches ; the filthy habits of the Malays generated the smaller vermin : scarcely any of the Malays had a change of clothing. The forecastle, what with the exudations, the heat, and the vermin, exhaled the most noisome odours that ever steamed from a heap of putrescence.

Our small steerage acted as a safety valve for the escape of foul atmosphere from the forecastle, which, together with the nuisance of rats, in addition to insect vermin, rendered the deck the only tolerable sleeping place : the rats bit us in our sleep, and one of us was awoke by a rat browsing on his eyebrows. The Malay crews are differently treated to any other : they have no separate watches, but keep the deck all day, and are supposed to be on the alert all night. In unsettled weather they can seldom rest for any time without being disturbed, and in cold weather they are completely disabled ; want of MALAY CREW. proper rest and clothing producing sickness. Whenever illness occurred among them, the captain had one infallible specific — " a dose of jalap," which he administered on every occasion and for every complaint : not that he believed the physic beneficial, but simply because the Malays detested it, and on that account avoided being on the sick list.

Malay crews usually include a " Serang" and two " Tinguls," corresponding to our boatswain and his mates. These petty officers carry a knotted piece of rope, called a ' colt,' which they use pretty freely ; they are seldom resisted, it being a part of the Malay creed to reverence their superiors. The helmsmen are usually Spaniards, and go by the name of " Sea Cooney." The Malays have very peculiar notions respecting food, and, like the Jews, abhor pork. As they will not touch food cooked by others, it is customary for them to have a ' Bandari,' or cook of their own, with a separate galley ; which somewhat resembles a huge box turned on its side. The food generally allowed them is rice and fish ; the rice is cooked in a large copper caldron, raised on stones and heated HABITS OF THE MALAYS. 7 by a wood fire ; the fish, usually dried snapper, or some other coarse salted fish, is fried on the embers.

They are esteemed clever at cooking ; certainly the rice is steamed so that each grain may be sepa rated. It is astonishing the quantity of rice they can devour at a sitting ; they feed on it three times a day, eating it from wooden platters with their fingers : they are otherwise scrupulously clean in theireating. Flour, curry and tea, are seldomgiven them, except in fair weather. Shark is a favorite fish with them ; I have seen them gorge themselves with it till almost unable to move. I have tasted it myself, but do not relish it : it is white, like cod, but very dry, and has a coarse flavour. The pay given to Malays is generally about twenty shillings a month ; but, notwithstanding the small wages, bad victualling, and the amount of labour required of them, they seldom express dis content.

The officers maintain the strictest discipline ; instant punishment follows any offence. A Malay will submit to severe bodily chastisement, but will not forget an indignity : to be spit at, or to be touched on the head, is equally an affront ; they sometimes resent the knocking off the turban with MALAY REVENGE. deadly revenge. As they always carry a bright knife in their belt, it is rather unsafe to play practical jokes on them. An instance of their revengeful disposition occurred before we left Adelaide. The captain of a vessel in port, got irritated with a Malay boy and struck him with the back of a carving knife ; shortly after, when the captain was sleeping at mid-day in his cabin, the boy, who had brooded over the insult, picked out the identical knife and plunged it into the breast of his slumbering victim ; then, rushing up the ladder, jumped over board.

He was pursued by the ship's-boat, but, raising his hands aloft, he pur posely sunk, sooner than be taken and delivered up to justice. Most of the Malays are Mussulmen, and ex tremely superstitious : they believe that the wind can be controlled by their holy men. The Bandari, who acted as their priest, was an Arab who had made the pilgrimage to Mecca, and, consequently, was in high repute among them. In calm weather he would tap the foot of the lower masts with a small stick ; but never risked his reputation for miraculous powers unless he saw evident signs of MALAY FESTIVITIES. an approaching storm. On certain feast days the Malays had little work given them to do : during the fine weather they would assemble to gether of an evening, and, squatted on the deck. would sing their national airs ; some imitating musical instruments with their mouths, others taking up the strain at intervals, not with melodious effect.

Dramas also were enacted among them, consisting of dialogues, accompanied with panto mimic gestures, in which they sometimes worked themselves up to a high pitch of excitement. Not understanding the Malay tongue, I could not elicit their meaning ; but I imagine them to have been celebrations of festivals common among the Oriental nations. These Malay ceremonies usually wound up with the burning of sandal wood below deck, its fumes being supposed to dispel all evil spirits from their berth ; they certainly drove us out of ours. We had a Chinese cook and carpenter on board, who readily fell into the habits of the Malays ; the Celestials being a more intelligent race, though they seemed to have less craft and courage than the Malays. It was highly amusing to witness the b A WATER-SPOUT. grimaces, and listen to the jabbering of the Chinese when abusing each other ; the carpenter was phleg matic, and the cook irascible, and to see these two oddities quarrelling over their ' chow-chow' was highly ludicrous.

Off Cape Natividad we witnessed a striking phe nomenon. The weather had been extremely sultry, the sea was perfectly calm and seemed alive with ani malculæ, appearing as if charged with electric matter. We were enjoying the cool of the evening on deck admiring the gorgeous splendour of a tropical sun-set, the clouds (reflecting variegated colours of intense brilliancy), andspeculatingfromwhat quarter the wind would be likely to arise, when suddenly the clouds near the horizon assumed a most portentous appearance; our attention was then directed to a violent effervescence in the water within a hundred yards of the ship's bows, momentarily increasing in agitation, and resembling a whirlpool. All eyes were immediately directed to it, when presently a dense vapour ascended from the cavity ; on looking upwards we saw that the clouds hung remarkably low, one of them being in a manner suspended from the heavens in the shape of an inverted cone ; CONSTERNATION OF THE CREW. 11 which gradually descended, seemingly attracted by the water, and united itself with the vapour emitted from the sea.

The water-spout kept in creasing in magnitude, forming a vast cylinder of watery vapour, twenty feet in circumference, almost over our heads. It was a critical moment : there was not a breath of air stirring ; the ship remained motionless ; the violent eddy around the base of the water-spout seemed to approach : if the vessel were attracted toward the yawning abyss, we knew that our destruction was inevitable. The officers were not idle ; orders were given to furl the sails, but the utmost consternation pre vafled on board : the affrighted crew were no sooner thrashed aloft, than they disregarded the orders, and knelt down in the tops and cross-trees seemingly petrified. Those on deck were equally terrified : regardless of the blows of the ' colt,' they prostrated themselves on the deck, imploring their gods with the loudest vociferations to vouchsafe their inter ference.

The passengers' demonstrations of fear were quieter: their pallid, terror-stricken appearance, with hair on end, bespoke their apprehensions, and the A " BURNT-OFFERING." greatest confusion prevailed. Presently, to the astonishment of all, the Bandari, almost in a state of nudity, emerged from the forecastle hatch, with only a pilgrim's scarf thrown over him ; in one hand he held the Koran, in the other a piece of the miraculous black stone of Mecca. He commenced jumping about in the strangest manner, chanting a hymn, and shouting out to the water-spout ; this being of no avail, he suddenly darted into the galley, and hurled its contents at the water-spout. Strange to say, this " burnt-offering" seemed to have been effectual, for the cause of alarm shortly retired from view. This was ascribed to ihe priest's influence, and raised him high in the estimation of his followers.

LOWER CALIFORNIA. CHAPTER n. Coast of Lower California — Kelp — Harbour of San Diego — Red Indians — Town of San Diego — Hospitality ofthe Residents — The Belle of San Diego — Dress of the Spanish Women — Fandangos — Beauty of the Female Population — Costume of the Men — Exercises and Amusements — United States and Mexican Soldiers — The Mission of San Luis Rey — A Day's Shooting — Yankee Backwoodsmen. We had been for three days coasting the barren shores of Lower California, the mountain ranges, without a blade of grass upon them, continually in view ; when, being in want of water, we altered our course, and steered for San Diego. On approaching within eight miles of the coast, a vast quantity of the fucus giganteus, or kelp, appeared above the surface of the water ; as we approached the shore, it gradually thickened so much that, the KELP. wind falling light, onr progress was completely impeded by it : for miles around, the sea was covered with this prolific weed, hanging perceptibly fifteen feet downwards ; pelicans, gulls, and other marine birds, had built their nests on its surface.

Kelp is an excellent guide for coasters, as it usually floats seven fathoms, so that no danger can accrue to vessels keeping on the verge of it. The boats were lowered, a tow-rope attached to them, and with cutlasses we cut our way through the kelp, and drew the vessel onwards. After being thus employed for about an hour, a breeze sprung suddenly up ; before we could slack the line, the vessel shot a-head, and the boats got entangled with the weed broadside on. During the southerly gales, kelp has been known to drive its way into the harbour with such force as to part the cables of vessels laying at anchor. Rounding a promontory, we entered the harbour of San Diego, and dropt anchor abreast of some wooden buildings. This harbour is deemed one of the best sheltered in the Pacific : its entrance is not more than seven hundred feet across, and might be easily defended, as a huge mountain rises abreast SAN DIEGO. of the anchorage.

Some large deserted hide-houses and tents, and a grave-yard with numerous recent mounds, marked the site of what will soon become a populous port. To the southward, on a rising ground, is the presidio, or town, about three miles distant from the port ; its white-washed houses glistening in the sun. Throwing out our lines, we caught abundance of mackerel ; and a boat coming alongside from the town, we heard marvellous accounts of the gold region, whither we were bound. The following morning, I, and two others, started for the town. There is nothing more refreshing than a run upon the green sod, after pacing for months the hard deck of a vessel ; the day was fine and the country beautiful, as with elastic steps and joyous spirits, we bounded across the verdant plain leading to the town. The outskirts were principally inhabited by Indians ; some of their habitations were made of adobe, or sun-dried clay, and were black with smoke ; others consisted of sticks and branches woven together, in shape and appearance not unlike a faggot-stack ; better adapted for a summer than a winter abode.

In a few of them I observed bedsteads, mattrasses, and MISSION-INDIANS. snow white linen sheets : the sight of a European bed in an American wigwam was so astonishing, that I entered one of the huts to satisfy myself of the fact. The Mission-Indians are of a red coppery hue, and they are usually clothed in loose cotton garments. Both sexes are flat featured, and present a bloated appearance anything .but prepossessing : in their habits they are both dirty and slothful. They are very submissive ; which may be attributed to the awe and obedience early implanted in their minds by the priests. The Indians are little better than serfs to the white population ; like the Gibeonites of Scripture, they are " the hewers of wood and drawers of water." They plait wicker-work very ingeniously; I have seen rush baskets so closely interwoven as to be waterproof, serving for buckets.

On entering the town, we passed by two large tumuli, one containing the bodies of Americans, the other of Mexicans, the memorials of a bloody battle which had been sought here a short time before : the earthen fortifications were riddled with bullet holes. HOUSES OF DIEGO. The principal houses of Diego surround a spacious square, in the centre of which, flanked by two pieces of heavy artillery, stands a lofty flag-staff, from which floats the American banner ; an additional star on which, reminds the haughty Spaniards of their subjugation. The houses forming the square are large white-washed buildings of adobe or sun dried bricks, with red tiled roofs ; the principal ones are built in the form of a quadrangle, entered through an arched gateway, leading into an elegant flower garden ; a verandah, stretch ing from the roof, projects all round, under which is a terrace of tessellated pavement.

The houses have seldom an upper story, and access to any portion of the building is obtained from the terrace. The apartments have boarded floors, kept scrupu lously clean, and covered with matting in the centre; a few chairs and a table constitute the necessary furniture : occasionally mirrors and paintings of the Spanish school, mark a more refined taste or greater wealth. The port being little frequented, the greatest simplicity of manners and habits prevails ; strangers, especially if they be English, are well received. A SPANISH FAMILY. Availing myself of the hospitable repute of the residents, I entered boldly several houses. In one of them, after passing through several apartments, I espied its inmates in what I imagine was the kitchen : the lady of the house, a stout, matronly dame, was scolding in shrill tones some black domestics who were pounding maize, while around her were grouped three beautiful blushing damsels.

The old lady did not seem in the least disconcerted at my intrusion ; saying 'Buenos dias, Seiior,' she, after a short conference, led the way to an elegant apartment, followed by her daughters. The latter understood a little English, and we soon became acquainted ; during my residence at Diego I visited the family constantly, and the senora placed much confidence in me. The daughters had none of the prudery habitual to European girls ; and we passed many pleasant hours smoking cigarettes together in the observatory at the top of the house. The Spanish residents here are mostly of old Castile descent, but the belle of the place bears the unromantic name of Snooks ; her father is an old English sailor, who touched at the coast in a whaler five and twenty years ago. The THE BELLE OF DIEGO. 19 hardships of whaling, combined with the fascina tions of a Spanish syren, induced him to leave the vessel ; he settled on shore, commencing busi ness as a ship-chandler, and by industry and perseverance he raised himself to opulence.

Notwith standing his long residence abroad, he is still a fine specimen of the jovial British tar ; and his house is always open to his countrymen. The fruit of his marriage was this one daughter; she is exquisitely moulded, both in form and feature, and her lustrous dark eyes are deeply fringed with black lashes. Her dignified aspect, and graceful deportment, inspired respect and admiration ; her amiability of manners and temper enhancing the fascination of her personal charms. The dress of the Spanish women of San Diego is simple and elegant : the skirt is long and of ample dimensions, the bodice fitting closely to the bust and round the throat ; a silver crucifix is generally appended to the neck, and a black scarf, or mantilla, is thrown with studied negligence over the head and shoulders, serving to protect the wearer from the sun, or the scrutinizing glances of the men.

FANDANGOS AND BEAUTIES. A good feeling seems to exist between all classes, the poor and the rich associating together without arrogance on the part ofthe one, or undue familiarity from the other. Fandangos are held almost nightly, and at these entertainments any respectable person is admitted. The music usually consists of a violin and guitar, played by amateurs. The intricate movements of the dance require considerable skill, and admitted of much graceful action ; of a kind very different from the violent exercise of Scotch reels and Irish jigs, or the shuffling steps of English country dances. At these assemblies there were generally several Mexican families, some of Moorish extraction ; whose complexion is several shades darker than the Spaniards, and of a deep ofive hue ; their figures and features are well modelled.

Some of the women are very lovely brunettes, with large lustrous eyes, and long wavy raven black hair. I am not apt to imagine a Dulcinea in every slipshod peasant-girl, but I think I may safely affirm, that during my rambles in Diego, I did not see what might be termed an ugly woman ; certainly I met with numerous very lovely girls. COSTUME AND HORSEMANSHIP. 21 The dress of the Spaniards and Mexicans is very handsome and picturesque ; both wear the poncho or serape, thrown over a black velvet jacket, slashed, braided and embroidered, and decorated with small silver buttons ; the trowsers, of black velvet or plush, are open from the knee downward, shewing the white lining, the edges being fringed with buttons ; a scarf of some bright colour is usually twisted around the waist, the ends often serving for a purse ; the boots are sometimes worn high, and huge spurs with large rowels are always attached to them ; a broad slouched hat generally shades the forehead ; a bright bowie knife stuck in the waist, or in the side of the trowsers below the knee, completes the equipment.

Both Spaniards and Mexicans are attached to equestrian exercises, and expert in using the lasso : the horses are high blooded, but small; they seldom stable them, but use a tether, which they always carry on the saddle. It is not. customary to trot ; their favorite pace is a hand gallop, which the horses can sustain for a long time ; when at full gallop they can rein in their steeds at an instant, or turn in through the door wav of a house to speak to the inmates. UNITED STATES SOLDIERS. During the heat of the day they take a siesta ; in the evening, gambling, smoking and cock fighting are their favorite pastimes. Nearly half the male population of San Diego had left for the gold mines of Upper California. A United States regiment was quartered at San Diego, to the great annoyance of the inhabitants.

Most of them seemed raw youths just taken from the plough ; there was none of that discipline and smart appearance characteristic of British troops. A democratic spirit of equality seemed to prevail between the officers and men, and the barracks at times presented a scene of drinking and disorder. The regiment had served in the Mexican campaign, and according to their own admissions, they distin guished themselves more by pillaging than hard fight ing; beingadeptsatrobbing hen-roosts, stealing cattle, and valiant on foraging expeditions. A fellow shipmate who had been carousing rather deeply, unsuspectingly fell asleep in the barrack sheds ; having forgotten to secrete his watch, in the morning he missed it, but never discovered the thief; nor was the watch restored . Fortunately I had taken care of MISSION OF SAN LUIS REY. 23 his purse over night, or he would probably have been relieved of it also.

A corps of the Mexican army was stationed a short distance from Diego, waiting till the boundary question was decided. I visited their camp, and found that they were decidedly better appointed troops than the Americans ; but, notwithstanding their more showy costume and better discipline, they had not the stamina and powers of endurance of the raw Kentuckians. About six miles from the town, in a beautiful well watered valley, is the mission of San Luis Rey. The buildings, constructed of mud, bricks, and stone, are rather extensive. It was for merly surrounded by well-stocked gardens, and large cattle ' corrals ;' but the padres, dispossessed of their power, have deserted the mission, and it had a most desolate appearance : the gardens were but negligently attended to by a Spaniard, who provided the shipping with supplies of fruit and vegetables.

The missions formerly monopolized the whole trade in hides and tallow, for which the port of Diego was famous ; over their fertile territories MOUNTAINOUS COUNTRY. ranged immense herds of cattle, tended by their Indian disciples. On their overthrow, Yankee and English merchants established agents here ; who, marrying into good Spanish families, secured these commodities in warehouses for shipping, when they arrived. At the port, large dilapidated barns, for the reception of hides, with tan-pits and tallow warehouses, still remain. The exports being dis continued — from the absence of their owners, who had left for the diggings — rats and stoats in formidable numbers filled the store-houses, feeding on the rotting hides. Desirous to have a day's sport, I and a shipmate took our fowling-pieces at day-break, and penetrated the mountains.

It was the roughest country I ever traversed : precipitous cliffs, deep ravines, wide clefts, and dense scrub, impeding our progress. We saw several wolves in the moun tains : probably their lair had never been dis turbed before ; for I feel assured that the indolent Spaniards would not upon any consideration have gone on an expedition so fatiguing as ours, for so little purpose. We bagged between us, six YANKEE BACKWOODSMEN. 25 hares, seven rabbits, an eagle, and two or three birds of the partridge kind. In this secluded and romantic spot, I could have settled very comfortably ; but, stimulated by the accounts which we had heard here of California, an access of the gold-fever carried me away. Our list of passengers was considerably aug mented by the embarkation of some Yankee backwoodsmen ; some of whom had travelled over the rocky mountains, others through Central America.

One of those who had come the latter route was half crazy from drink and dissipation : he had not shaved or washed for two months, and had altogether a most repulsive appearance. The other over-landers looked equally miserable; their cadaverous features bearing marks of recent suffering, their long beard and hair clotted into knots, and their clothes and boots tattered and way-worn. The only articles they possessed were blankets, wallets, and fire-arms. This addition to our company rather incommoded us ; for to some who had agreed only for a deck passage, we could not refuse shelter in wet and squally weather. The subject of nationality was c YANKEE BOASTING. often injudiciously broached, and caused many violent political discussions. I noticed that the Yankees, even when, for the sake of peace and quietness, their pre-eminence had been admitted, would continually assert the immeasurable infe riority of the ' Britishers' to their own free and enlightened countrymen. SAN FRANCISCO. 27

Chapter III

Arrival at San Francisco — Hopes and Fears — Scene in the Harbour — Desertion of the Crew — Landing — Town of Francisco on Sunday — State of Society— Aspects of the Place and People — Symptoms of the Gold Fever. — Sale of superfluous Clothing — An extempore Grog Shop and its Catastrophe — First Night in California. About the beginning of September we entered the bay of San Francisco ; above which the land rises high and bold. On entering the Golden Gate, as the entrance to the harbour is called, our anxiety was intense ; for soon our golden dreams would either be realized or dissipated. We now began to moderate our eager expectations, and duly consider the dangers and hardships likely to be undergone ; indeed, we almost regretted leaving for uncertainties a ship, which had at least provided for our necessities, c HARBOUR OF FRANCISCO. protected us from the inclemency of the weather, and afforded us companions.