Visits to High Tartary, Yârkand, and Kâshghar, ... and return journey over the Karakoram Pass ... With map and illustrations

Preface

. It is necessary that I should say a few words to explain the late appearance of this book. On my return to England in January, 1870, after my expedition to Yarkand, I was preparing to put into shape my notes regarding that country, when a telegram from India in the Times announced that some British officers were to be sent on a friendly visit to the Atalik-Grhazee, or King of Eastern Toorkistan. I at once telegraphed an offer to join this expedition, and within five days received an answer favourable to my wishes. I was therefore obliged to leave England at once, and hurry out to the place of rendezvous, the northern end of the Pangong Lake in Western Tibet. The records of my former journey existed in the shape of a journal written from day to day when there was anything of interest to write, and of a diary (almost illegible to any one but myself) record ing mere daily movements, or such things as there was not opportunity to write out more fully.

These I brought out to India with me in the steamer, and prepared for publication in such a hurried manner as was alone possible amid the heats and discomforts b

PREFACE.

. VI of a voyage down the Red Sea in June. It seemed a pity to plunge again into Toorkistan without leaving behind me some of the results of my first exploration, and so my hastily corrected MS. went home by the next mail. As my early return from my second expedition permitted of my bestowing the last cares on my book before submitting it to the public, it was again sent out to me for that purpose. But it found me prostrated by a severe and dangerous illness, the result of the exposure which I had undergone. Hence a fresh delay, which I have been unwilling to increase by a more adequate revision. Finally, after travelling with me from Toorkistan to England and out again, then home and out a second time, my unfortunate book is now setting out on its fifth voyage between Asia and Europe, trusting to be no longer tossed by adverse waves and blasts.

The explanation of this delay will account for, and I hope cover, many of the deficiencies which will be found. With regard to the spelling of the names, I have endeavoured to give such combinations of letters as will enable an ordinary English reader (unacquainted with the Jonesian, Gilchristian, or any other system) to pronounce the words in a way not differing very much from that of the natives. The sole rule I have to offer is that the words in this book should be pronounced naturally, with the single exception that the g is always hard, even before e or i. I conceive the object in a work of this sort should

PREFACE.

. VII be to enable the reader not to write out the words in their proper native characters, which he has not the least desire to do, but to ascertain approximately their native sound. The practical effect of spelling, according to one of the systems, is that half the readers (who naturally will not take the trouble to learn it) catch the wrong sound, while my words, though uncouth-looking, will, I trust, not mislead in the same manner. The orthographic systems, like the Pierian spring, are dangerous to those who have not drunk pretty deeply of them. For instance, the system which renders the Oriental short vowel by " u," expects the reader to pronounce its word " hue " to rhyme with high ! But this requires a very cultivated taste. Nor is it likely that without instruction we should forget our early associations, and pronounce the word " Turk " as though it were written " Toork," which the Jonesian system requires.

In fact, the letter u is a very dangerous one. Half the people who might see the words " pundit " or " Punjab " for the first time, would be uncertain whether they should pronounce the u as in " Hindu " or as in " Turkey." I confess that if I could have hoped that my readers would begin by learning a table of pronun ciations I would have prefixed one to the volume, for I should much prefer to use the Jonesian system ; but, as they would in practice do nothing of the kind, they would only catch a wrong pronunciation from a too scientific method. I also wish to enter a protest against what may be b

PREFACE.

. called the foreign method of spelling for English readers, which is sometimes adopted. Combinations are used to represent certain Oriental letters which the French or Germans may not have equivalents for, but which we have. For instance, Dschenguiz is written, when Chengiz would represent the sound as well to us, and would moreover possess the advantage of being an English form. And so "Djedda" for " Jedda," "djangal" for the familiar "jungle." Surely we Englishmen have enough con nection with the East ourselves, not to be dependent for our Eastern words on any other European nation. ) CONTENTS.

Chapter I. Introductory

The Author's settlement in the Himalaya — Interest attracted to the Trans-Himalayan Region — General Physical Relations of Tibet and the Himalaya — The Regions beyond Tibet ; hitherto inaccessible — Murder of A. Schlagintweit — Johnson's Visit to Khoten — The Author's Preliminary Visit to Ladak — The Table Land of Tibet ; its Cold Blasts ; its Villages and their Inhabitants — Lamas — The Town of Leh (Ladak) — Meeting with Toorkee Merchants — Their Gratitude for Advantages obtained through Dr. Cayley — Return from Ladak to Kangra — Hardships in the Bara Lacha Pass — Preparations for a Journey into Eastern Toorkistan — Adoption of the Mercantile Character — Moonshee Diwan Baksh engaged as confidential Agent and Forerunner Page 1

Chapter II. The Tribes Of Toorkistan And Tartary

Characteristics of the People of Eastern Toorkistan — " Tartarised Aryans " — The original Inhabitants probably of Aryan Blood — Last Relic of these in Sarikol — Toork and Tajik ; Kirghiz and Sart — The People of Badakhshan; and of Wakhan — The Oozbeks — The Kipchaks — The Toorkmans — The Kazaks — The Kara-Kalpaks — The Kirghiz — Their Mahamadanism ; Settlers in Eastern Toorkistan ; Cashmeerees ; Baltees ; Badakshees — The Thian-Shan ; Kalmaks — The Great Desert ; the Doolans — Zungaria — The Toonganees ; alleged Etymology of the Name, and Origin of the People — The Taranchees, Kansoo, Charchand, and its mention by Marco Polo — Zilm, and its approximate Position — The Talkas 21

Chapter III. Recent History Of Eastern Toorkistan

Affairs in the Khanate of Khokand, and expulsion of the Ruler Khooda Yar Khiin — Khoja Wall6 Khan, and his invasion of Eastern Toorkistan — His murder of A. Schlagintweit — Khooda Yar Khan recovers CONTENTS. X CHAPTEE III.— continued. the throne of Khokand — Disturbances in Kashghar and Yarkand — Advance of the Russians in Western Toorkistan — Account of the Revolt of the Toonganees against the Chinese Rule — The Kirghiz descend on Kashghar — Their Barbarities — Fresh invasion from Andijan — Toonganees in power at Yarkand — Mahammad Yakoob takes Kashghar and Yarkand — Assumes title of Atalik-Ghazee — Conquers Khoten, and puts to death the Khan Habiboollah — Receives an Envoy from Russia — Conquest and depopulation of Sarikol — Chronological Table of Recent History Page 41

Chapter IV. Journey From Kangra To Ladak

The Valley of Kooloo — A Yarkandee Orphan taken in charge — The Bara Lacha Pass — Change of Physical Aspect — Characteristics of a Rainless Region — Trench-like Valley of the Indus — Detour east of Ladak in search of new Route — Extracts from Journal-Letters — Hajjis on return to Central Asia — Their view of Christians — The Plateau of Roopshoo — Chinese Aspect of People — The Pangong Lake — Dr. Cayley's explorations — Author joins him and goes to Leh — Interview with Envoy from Yarkand — Arrangement to despatch the Moonshee with the Envoy — Mr. Douglas Forsyth at Leh — Troubles of Preparation — The Argoons or Half-bloods, and their rascalities — Mr. Thorp's proposal to join the Author — Departure from Ladak 60

Chapter V. Journey From Ladak To The Karakash River

Doorgoo — Price of Shawl-wool — - Tankse' — Difficulties about Ponies Hire of Yaks — Enter the Chang-chenmo Plains — Wild Yak shooting — Ovis Ammon — Message from Mr. Hayward proposing a Junction Reports of Country to the Eastward — Meeting with Hayward ; his Plans — Objections to a Junction ; Separation of the two Travellers Singular Posture recommended for Sleeping in the Cold — Plain of Lingzee-Thang — The "Lavender-Plant," and its scanty Fuel The Guddee Servants (from Kangra) — Lyre-horned Antelope — Lak-zung — Wild Yak shot — The Cook breaks down — Tibetan diet — Ice-lake — The Kuen Lun in sight — The Karakash River March down its banks — Warm Springs — Jade-quarries — Kyangs, or Wild Asses yg CONTENTS. XI

Chapter VI. Detention At Shahidoolla

Letter from Fort of Shahidoolla Khoja — Toorks ; their Dress and Manners — The name Tibet used by them — Recapitulation of Journey down the Karakash — First sight of a Kirghiz Yourt — Its Inhabitants — Arrival of Toork Soldiers — Traveller sends by them a Letter to the King (Atalik-Ghazee) — Arrival at Shahidoolla, and detention there for orders — Arrival of a Mihmander on the part of Kashghar Government — Difficulties caused by Hayward's Approach — Continued Detention — Arrival of a Messenger from the Moonshee — Traveller assumes the Moghul (or Toork) Dress — Hayward's Arrival at Shahidoolla — Correspondence with him — End of the Detention . . Page 100

Chapter VII. Shahidoolla To Yarkand

March down the Karakash, and turn off by the Sanjoo Pass — The comforts of a Kirghiz Tent — Horseflesh — Distant view of the Plains of Toorkistan — Meeting with the Yoozbashee — Toork mode of sitting — The Dastar-khan (Table-cloth) or offering of Food — Visit to the Yoozbashee — Traces of Scythian Costume — Partridge Hunting, and other Toork Diversions — A Toorkistanee House — Letter etiquettes — The Beg of Sanjoo — Toork Saddles — Guddee Merchants . . . . 129

Chapter VIII. Continuation Of Journey To Yarkand

The Desert — Town of Kargalik — Character of the cultivated Country — Irrigation, and Mills — Well-being of People — The Gallows — The Birkoot or Hunting Eagle — The Bactrian Camel — The Ardbah or Toorkee Cart — Repairs of Road in honour of the Traveller — Mode of Travelling — The Yoozbashee ; his cordiality, vivacity, and good manners — Conversation on Khokand, &c. — Horse Play, called Ooghlak — Hajjee from Bokhara — Tea-trade — Village of Bora — The Lyre-horned Antelope — Wild Camels — Evening Amusements — Honours paid to the Traveller — Quantities of Food supplied — Cross the Yarkand River — Approach to the City — The Public Scaffold — The City of Yarkand — The Yang-Shakr, New-Town, or Chinese Cantonment — Quarters assigned, and Welcome to Yarkand CONTENTS. XII

Chapter IX. Residence At Yarkand

The Shaghawal Dad-khwah; his high Position — Visit to him, and good Reception — The Moonshee's account of his Mission — The Traveller's Quarters — Furniture supplied, and other Presents — Another Interview with the Shaghawal — Murder of Schlagintweit — Report of the City by the Traveller's Servants — The Traveller kept within Doors — The Ramazan — The Shaghawal again — Conversation about the Chinese, &c — Mr. Hayward Page 178

Chapter X. Residence At

YARKAND— continued. The Yoozbashee — The Province of Sarikol — Talk with Moonshee regarding Infanticide in India — Presents to the Shaghawal and Conversation with him — Toorkee Views of Ethnology — Old Books — Sufferers from Goitre — Christmas Festivities and Presents — The Traveller gives a Dinner-party — The Mahammadan Servants held to Orthodox Conduct — Present from the Shaghawal — Pistol Accident — The Gazelle called Saikeek — Musicians — New Year's Day — Frozen Grapes — Cashmere Mischief-makers — Anecdote of the King — Money supplied to the Traveller — The Shaghawal; his historical Knowledge — Arrangements for advance to Kashghar 201

CHAPTER XL YARKAND TO KASHGHAR.

Defences of the Yarkand Yang-shahr — Book of the History of Timoor — Branch of Yarkand River — Sand-hill Tract — The Pamir Mountains — The Kizil-Tagh — Royal Rest-house — The Shaghawal's Reputation for Learning — Toorkee Women — Traditions of Chinghiz — Talk about India — Village of Kizil — Iron-furnaces — Farm-house Arrangements — Mode of Smelting Iron — Sand-hills again — Rich cultivation — City of Yang-hissar — Murder of Schlagintweit — Explanations about English Rulers in India — Cross River Koosoon — Riding Extraordinary — The Mahrambashee 231

Chapter XII. Arrival At Kashghar

Four Rivers crossed — The Yang-shahr, or Fortress of Kashghar Presents for the King — Procession to the Palace — Kalmak Archers The King — Conversation with him — Gracious Dismissal — Neglect CONTENTS. XIII CHAPTEE XII.— continued. by the Underlings ; notice thereof and amende made — Russian Rifle — Spies — Confinement of the Traveller to his Quarters, and conse quent Ennui — Evil Rumours — Native Candles — Sulphur Matches — Price of Cotton — Arrival of the Shaghawal — Gymnastics — The Legends of Alexander — Legends of Toorkee History and Conversion ; Legends of Russians and Chinese Page 257

Chapter XIII. Detention At Kashghar

Chinese Women and their Feet — Ignorance about the British Dominion in India — Prisoners from Sarikol — Balti Songs — Powder-making — Stories of former English Visitors — Sarikol People — Feeling of Natives of India towards Englishmen in this Foreign Land — Consumption of Tea — Executions — Author recognized by a Kangra Rajpoot — The Mahrambashee's view of Sins — The exploring Mirza — The Indian Mutiny — Ceremonies at New Moon — The King's alleged Favour to the Traveller — The Beg of Khoten — The Moonshee's Lies — Oriental Fables 283

Chapter XIV. Detention At

KASHGHAR— continued. Mountains near Kashghar — Recent Establishment of a Fort to guard the Passes — The Russians — The King's Bravery, and the Mahrambashee's Dislike to War — Chinese Punishments — Rozee, the Orphan — Puritanical Restrictions on Former Amusements — Hayward's Arrival — Confinement of Envoys — The Mirza — Letter from Hayward — Views of the Russian War of 1855 — Heroic end of the Chinese Governor at Yarkand .. .. 311

Chapter XV. Detention At

KASHGHAR— continued. Beauty of Chinese Women — The Koorban Eed — White Ants in Kashghar — Dancing Dervishes — Price of Tea — Continuation of Kangra Rajpoot's Autobiography — Abolition of Slave Trade by the Atalik- Ghazee — Calmak Bow and Arrows — Bookshops in Kashghar — English and Franks — The Traveller's Impatience rebuked — Moomiai — Interview with the King — His improved knowledge about England and the Queen — Parting Presents — Third Visit to the King — His Departure for Yang-hissar 331 C CONTENTS.

Chapter XVI. From Kashghar Back To Yarkand And Stay There

View of the Mountains — The Toorkee Cart — Wheelbarrows — Snowy Mountains — Yang-hissar; and Various Pictures of the People — Soldiers — Parting Interview with the King — Ghoolam Kadir the Interpreter — Presents for the Queen — Chinese Paintings — Weather Charmers — Stereoscope — Compressed Tea — Hindu Prejudices and Dangerous Jest — Arrival at Yarkand — The Chihil SUoon, a Relic of Antiquity, between Kashghar and Khokand — Density of Population in Yarkand — Particulars about Khoten — The Sarikol Lake not recognized — Note from Hayward — Ghoolam Kadir, and his Recollections of Conolly — Mutilation of Criminals — A Stereoscope from the Bazar — Horse-eating — Gold of Khoten — Treatment of Horses — The Palampoor Fair — Punishment for using False Weights — The Maharaja of Cashmere as a British Feudatory — Execution — Murder of Schlagintweit — Preparations for Departure Page 364

Chapter XVII. Return From Yarkand To India

Departure from Yarkand* — Hayward joins Company — River Tishnaf — Fertile Country — Halt at Kargalik — Bokhara Persian — Musical Entertainment — Stony Desert — Valley — Oasis of Bora — Sand-hills — The Beg of Khoten — The Yoozbashee's Courtship — Hayward's Observations — Choochoo Pass — Chitral Slave Trade — Kirghiz Huts — Notes on Kanjoot and the Pamir Regions — Final Parting with the Yoozbashee at the Sanjoo Pass — Reach the Karakash — Kuen Luen and Karakoram Ranges — Sources of Yarkand River — The Karakorum Pass and Range — Mortality among Beasts of Burden — Great Mer de Glace at Source of the Shayok — Antelopes — Lake-Terraces — Quicksands — Glaciers — Dangerous Passage of the Shayok, and Perils of the Sasser Pass — Return to British Territory 411

Chapter XVIII. Native Opinions Respecting India

The Moonshee and Hindu Servants — Talk about India — Social Customs in India — Infanticide — The Moonshee's Family — State of India before British Rule — Distinction between Matters of Religion and Worldly Matters — Estimation of the Koran in practical Life — Bribery in the District Law-Courts of India — Native Officials Paucity of English Judges — Evils of frequent change of Officials in India — Caste a social Custom in India, totally unconnected with Religion — Similar Distinctions in Europe CONTENTS. XV